Yes, my shirt is not ironed. I know it's "Ironic" that I'm talking about sharpness while simultaneously not looking the "sharpest." Anyway, thank you all for your comments, likes, shares, and subs. We really appreciate it! 😀
If you have THINGS bouncing around in your head, you should see a doctor. That sounds like a most serious medical condition. Greetings and best wishes from Germany, Home of WW2.
Young man I have been a professional photographer since 1980 and I have to tell you that is one of the best videos I have seen on how to get sharp photographs!👏👏👏
I starting working in the 90's and said the same thing about the video. He even gave examples and showed that you have to understand the basics of light and nothing is set in stone!!!!
This may have already mentioned in the comments but I would like to add one more thing. New photographers don't know to set their focus mode. There's one for stills and one for tracking moving subjects. Nikon and Canon call their single focus mode AF-S or One Shot. It will only focus your camera the one time when you press the shutter button. This is great for landscape when nothing is moving. It's the wrong mode to use for moving subjects. For moving subjects you will want to use AF-C or AI Servo. As long as your shutter button, or back button, is half pressed/pressed, your camera will continue to track the subject until you press the shutter button. Back button focus is the best option to use because it disconnects the function of focusing from the shutter button. You can always keep your camera in continuous focus mode. If you have a still subject just press the button once. If your subject is moving you just hold the button down until you take the picture. Good video by the way.
Even better anticipate the subject's movements and focus by hand since sometimes If you don't use high end stuff the autofocus will never be fast enough :D
@@cynic252 yes that's true. But if you only tap the bbf it will act like single focus mode. It only acts like continuous focus mode if you hold the button down.
@@aiqalosky9449noise is much less of a problem than a photo that's intrinsically unsharp because of subject/camera motion. Even my 10 year old DSLR is pretty good up to ISO 3200, and the newer ones are better still with another stop or two.
@@aiqalosky9449high ISO doesn't mean more noise! That's so false. If a photo is exposed right it can have a high ISO and still isn't noisy. And there is no point in having blurry photos but at least there is no noise right? So just do what it takes to get it exposed properly and have it sharp.
Amen, Brother! I've ruined a lot of potentially great shots by working in Aperture priority to get just that perfect DOF only to discover later that my shutter speed was just a bit too slow and the critical bits of the image weren't sharp - especially the eyes! This can be so disappointing. Your suggestions are spot on. A quick suggestion for experimenters: 1. put your camera in manual mode 2. set ISO to automatic 3. dial shutter speed to something manageable based on your intended shooting for the day and light conditions - 1/125, 1/250, 1/400 Now, your shutter speed should compensate for any hand-held shake and you can simply dial in the f-stop based on your desired DOF keeping an eye on your light meter. I've personally found that I can get very good results in post even when I've shot underexposed at -1.0 EV and some up to -2.0 EV as long as I'm not asking too much of it. Just a thought. Crackin' great video and excellent explanations. Many thanks! Cheers, mate! J
I am rewatching this video several months later and the shutter speed advise has improved the quality of my photos I still have work to do but absolutely helpful.
Great points in this video. For a long time, I was scared of increasing my ISO because of the fear of noisier images, but I came to find out that it's almost always a small price to pay in comparison to an image that isn't sharp.
Great tips. I know it's a compromise, but I'll usually take a sharp image over noise. My tip I'll give I was actually told by another pro when shooting presentations/podium shoots - 125 shutter is bare minimum, Yes, in low light situations you sometimes have to push the ISO further than you'd like but it's worth it. I photographed some executives recently doing a presentation and I was seated so I said "1/60 is OK". Guess what? - when I previewed a few during the shoot I realized too many weren't sharp enough. When I pushed the ISO to give the one extra stop going to 1/125 the results were consistently better. Sometimes it is a game of inches - little things do make a difference.
Topaz Denoise is also an incredible tool for this, I shoot wildlife and sometimes get up to 8000 ISO, if everything else is correct their Ai suite will fix the noise very nicely
You are the first person to really explain it that no one ever has and in a way I haven't understood before. This helps so much! I had these struggles with shutter and images not being in focus properly when I zoomed in the subject was blurry. Thank you so much!
There are more factors that can make photos unsharp. The aperture: Lenses are generally sharper two stops from maximum aperture. i.e. f5.6. Stopping too far down (f22 or f32) will cause diffraction and loss of sharpness. Exposure: Especially with film, overexposure can cause a loss of sharpness.
This is such an important thing to know while also being something that I almost never see talked about. I didn't understand it was something I should be thinking about at all until I started watching Christopher Frost's lens reviews years ago.
Unless your a specialized professional possessing limited production-run photo/cinematography uber-glass made by Zeiss, Schneider, Rodenstock, etc. I remember when my dad, who worked for NASA, took me to a lens factory in Rochester NY and I saw a batch of photo lenses being ground, individually checked under an interferometer and painstakingly hand assembled. As a kid I asked, why couldn't a Canon or Nikon lens be used. The gentlemen replied that those lenses serve a purpose very-well but ultimately are toys.
There's one thing I think that may have been good to mention in this video -> Depending on the angle that you shoot at, it's possible for the camera to autofocus on the subject's closer extremities, rather than their eyes or torso (or whatever you desire). It's most common in up-close shots, and I've been guilty in the past of shooting a session where some of the photos are OOF because the focus was on their nose or shoulder and I was shooting at a downward angle. An easy trap to fall in.
I always suggest to new shooters and even enthusiasts; 1/125 unless you have to bring it down no less than 1/60 for wide angle/default lenses, and then lenses above 50mm 2.5xlens focal length to be on safe side or faster if moving.and use the lens aperture of 2 stops over the lenses specified widest aperture. but that's just the basic rule i use along with ISO 100 outside, 400 shaded/inside 800 or higher in darkness.
@@dennysebastian4017 minimum of 1/125th but at 300mm you want to be around 1/500+ to 1/1000+, but depends on camera and lens shake compensation at the sharpest f/stop
Great video, seriously. Honest, detailed AND easy to grasp information. You know what you’re talking about. You don’t edit your video with a ton of cuts every second. And one of my pet peeves you avoid- you pronounce “photographer” correctly! 😂 TH-camrs that say “phurtography” then say “photo” make me stop the video immediately- you don’t. Much praise, sir. Cheers.
One thing I would have appreciated is mentioning using shutter speed artistically, you don't always need to get everything completely tack sharp, especially things like moving water looks really nice with a slower shutter speed because it shows the movement of the flowing water, in the same sense for the basketball example I think you could make some really nice shots if you were be able to get the players tack sharp but have the ball with some motion blur to show movement.
You are good at explaining complex subjects! Concise, and not too fast/not too slow/just right! Whether someone has some photography experience refreshing their knowledge or are just hearing this for the first time, there is something for everyone in the well-done video. 👍
I just got back from photographing some summer flowers with my lovely Canon 100mm. L f/2.8 macro lens, and was disappointed at the lack of sharpness. I think you fixed it - going to try again when the sun comes back. I usually shoot aperture priority, but I jiggle a little and the flowers move a little in the breeze. Thank you! I’ll pay more attention to shutter speed in future.
I've got that lens and know exactly what you're talking about. Shooting flowers, in particular, can be an exercise in frustration. Wind is a mortal enemy. Then, there's the crack-thin DOF that a lot of macro lenses (this one included) suffer from. A tripod is nearly an absolute must and - if you think you're going to really love the image and it's worth the time - focus bracketing can make a huge difference. PS and LR can both handle focus stacks and these can pull together a breath-taking image if you've had the patience (and a bit of luck). Cheers! J
Most camera systems have either in-body or in-lens stabilisation which is a great help to get sharp pictures - with my Olympus E-M1 I can hand hold with a 35mm equivalent 50mm prime at up to 2 seconds with no camera shake - and I drink coffee and I'm over 60 years old! The stabilisation also helps manual focusing because the camera shake is neutralised and you see more clearly through the viewfinder.
The lore is that the 1/(focal length) rule for shutter speed came from old school, medium format press photographers. And that generally works on my RZ67. But for a 35mm size digital/film camera that's not enough. Thus, his advice to add an additional stop of shutter speed is sound. For 35mm I use 1/(2x focal length) if using a non-stabilized lens, I try to use 1/125 for a 50mm lens on FF, and also for my RZ67 with the 110mm lens.
I do go for the quickest shutter. But the rule is a mental one that says, "if the quickest shutter is not at least X, then you can't shoot this handheld." So the rule is a go/no-go decision point for handheld. Not a rule that tells me where to set the shutter.
@@eyesonly4451 Well, different techniques can be used to improve the chances of taking a sharp shot, including those used by snipers (muscle relaxation, controlled breathing, use of the sling), also delayed trigger and burst shooting, not to mention the optical image stabilization can be pretty good in itself. But for a less controlled environment I guess that's a good rule of thumb.
@@getsideways7257 I agree. And if haven't had too much caffeine, can get my breathing just right, and press the shutter so that it releases between heartbeats, I may can do a little better. But that's a lot of 'ifs'. So it's just a rule of thumb that tells men when I'm approaching the limit of handheld, and need to breakout the tripod, which is the only real option for film. I guess cameras with auto-ISO have a third option, but that seems to be cheating in some way.
@@eyesonly4451 Indeed, a tripod is the only option for that. As for auto-ISO, not really a fan of going up the ISO scale, but sometimes there is no other choice.
Bro! Way to explain everything in such a succinct manner. And you have zero douche factor, and are a natural teacher. Subscribed & liked. Look forward to seeing more of your videos. Awesome.
A book I read pointed out that you often don't want a too fast shutterspeed as to capture motion. For example a photograph where you're capturing people walking, you don't want to completely freeze the frame but rather want some motion in the image which is achieved by having a slower shutterspeed like 1/60. Flowing water is also a nice example but there both sides of the spectrum, while completely different, are very desirable.
As a motorsport photographer. The shutter speed doesn't seem to apply for panning shots. Sure a 200 mm set at 1/200's with show a sharp motioned image but won't give a good sense of speed.
Very helpful video! This makes a lot of sense! I've always been so hesitant to increase the ISO because I didn't want to introduce a bunch of noise into my photos, but then the photos of my kids indoors would all be so blurry and i would discard at least half of them. So finally, at the next birthday party I increased the ISO so i could increase the shutter speed and I was MUCH happier with the photos as a whole!
Good advice on shutter speed. I'm trying to use old manual lenses - so no stabilisation - so my strategy is to use Shutter Priority with Auto ISO with an upper limit of say 3200, as the old lenses have an aperture ring. Then I can keep my shutter speed at the high end and the ISO will compensate automatically. That gives me full control over shutter speed and aperture.
I have a lot of vintage manual focus lenses and I find that getting 100% accurate manual focus, especially when shooting wide open, is very hard because the focus indicator in the viewfinder (Nikon D600) lights up when the focus is only approximately correct. To get it just right can only happen by sheer luck. That is why I mainly use the vintage lenses when I shoot on a tripod and I can use the live view feature on the camera's display at maximum zoom to actually see the focus at pixel level. Which is of course only possible when you shoot at inanimate objects.
It was a fantastic video and really brought into mind what it means to be sharp over in focus. Not only was this video clear, no pun intended, you come off as such a likable teacher that kept me watching the entire video. You have a new subscriber!
Someone once said "The best lens is a tripod." It can be hard to hold a camera still while composing, focusing, and pressing the shutter button. But the routine for keeping things sharp is the same which is taught for shooting (guns, not cameras). Way back when I was a young man in basic training in the Army, I was taught to fire a rifle. The drills sergeants (not the most pleasant guys) enforced important points. First was a good stance (prone, kneeling, or standing), careful breathing (pause your breath as you exhale, then fire), and pulling the trigger properly to prevent movement of the rifle. In regards to cameras, they are smaller and lighter than rifles, which actually makes them more difficult to keep still. I shoot film, usually ASA 400, and in favorite shooting conditions, I usually shoot at f/8 at 1/125 of a second. This shutter speed and a steady hand give me sharp images. If things get a little darker, I open up the aperture a little rather than slowing down the shutter. If I do have to choose a slower shutter speed, I compensate by paying more attention to the basic steps I remember from learning to shoot a rifle.
For newbies as myself I did not understand alot of this. It would have been easier if you showed us on the camera step by step of what you where talking about. It would take more time for you to make this video. But more understandable for us who don't no anything about cameras. Thank you for doing this video though.
I'm a novice photographer as well and have no idea about anything photography-related past setting my camera up and seeing what looks right, but this video made sense. Even the jargon. I'd suggest just looking up some more info about how cameras work and this video should be clearer to you really soon, and I don't mean that in a condescending way at all.
I like what I perceive of this individual as a person; void of ego, has a pleasant voice, an excitement about teaching, exudes warmth, and authenticity...
Thanks for guiding me back to basics. After all my years you have made more sense on this important topic than I have ever experienced before. I hope I see better sharper images in future . I will also turn off the stabiliser and only use it as you have described.
Your video was so good I didn’t notice your shirt. Thank you. It’s nothing a drier sheet can’t fix. Your presentation was very clear and easy to understand.
This was very helpful. I've been having problems with focus and sharpness. I've been shooting for 45 years, mostly analogue. It was never an issue. Got some interesting tips from a knowledgeable guy a good camera store. One tip was to shoot in bursts, and crazy enough, it helped somewhat as the subjects were moving slightly. My Fuji x lenses zoomed out to 300mm go down only to f5.6. Big problems in low light. Under exposing by 1 stops helps a little. My hand's pretty steady still. It seems the more advanced the camera and lenses get, the worse my pictures get. I can easily throw out half of them and that used to be a much higher percentage when using analogue and fast lenses.
Re: The Shirt. So what! It's the subject matter that counts. Good job. I've only seen a few of your videos but those have been helpful. Thanks for the effort.
You can add about shutter speed that if you use a tripot or fix the kamera in another way then remember to stop the built in stabilasation. If it is on the camera will wibrate when you take the picture.
My question is, is it possible to hold the camera so steady it messes with ibis? Ever take a shot sitting with the camera in your lap with the screen tilted up at you?
yes boy the camera is shaking, you have a wide cultural and technical vocabulary for this field. The stabilisation comes from the brain balance either you right or left inclination on the tripod when you screw the camera on the tripod.
Great video - Kai W put out a video recently about freezing high speed action with flash, as often even higher speeds don’t actually freeze the motion as effectively as a flash! (But flash isn’t always an option )
Thank you for these golden tips, which I didn't know for years. I learned from my father that taking an analog picture should start at 1/60sec or higher, unless you put it on a tripod. It's only with modern gear and stabilization that you can shoot slower. I once saw a video of a guy so proud to have learned his 5 year grandson to successfully take flying birds at 1/500sec, the photos being sharp. I couldn't take anything with these kind of settings (with an 450D) and a Sigma 170-500mm (no stab), even at 400mm. Ok, that kid had a 5D with a Canon pro/prime lens. When I learned I should start at 1000-2000 for anything that is moving wildlife, I finally came home with brilliant pictures, even with this old slow lens and out of hand. And don't forget: you need to compensate for many things on crop sensors.
This was super helpful! I’ve been having issues with images being hit or miss with regards to images being sharp. I can’t wait to apply what I just learned from you.
Excellent advice.... especially about checking the sharpness before an event. I thought I was good at one point and shot an entire game only to have to throw out 50% of the photos. Some blur can be cool but sparingly of course. Thanks for the good, well explained subject matter.
Thanks so much for all your great advice Forrest! We are always learning from your expertise! So good to see you even if it is virtual! Parker and Carla
I learned so much here, even things I didn't expect to learn. I really appreciate your thoroughness and care for your audience. Thank you so very much.
There’s also another aspect which you missed, pixel count. Having a 61mp image with say a 85mm lens is an equivalent of using a 135mm lens on a 20-24mp camera (roughly I don’t know the exact formula) because when you view it at 1:1 pixels it’s tighter in.
I wouldnt say its the same exactly as you always have more data and flexability with the wider shot at higher Mpx, however i get the point your trying to make yes using a camera with higher Mpx and shorter focal length can produce the same result when cropping as a longer focal length on a smaller sensor (provided your using a good quality lens.) This is why you can produce almost identical images with aps-c and MFT cameras that you can with full frame/35mm film cameras. The limitation is usually the ammount of light captured you often can't get aparature wide enough to match for a FF equivalent (i.e. when you do the math you can find you would need aparatures of
Great video. It seems like my photos are always not very sharp. Now that I've experimented with your suggestions, my photos are better(sharper) with higher shutter speeds. Thanks so much.
Yeah I have been really enjoying experimenting with "how to get my nature photos sharp even in different lighting situations" I've learned that I really like when I can get a sharp photo as well as a sorta dark esthetic vibe to my photos, that's my favorite area to be working in currently. It's really a balancing act of balancing shadows, bright spots, crisp detail with your focus that's not overdone from too high of ISO or something that creates noise (static type effect). So I started playing and testing things and it's funny, you get everything dialed in, but, that's for that specific spot, so you sorta learn this process of letting go and being okay with being adaptive and flexible when exploring and taking photos in manual mode. Once I find I can use a shutter speed of 1/80th- 1/100th to take a picture on the forest floor and it being sharp focus, while also giving me room for playing with my aperture, because I love getting a good depth of field in a photo when you can, so I found I'm going to take a picture of a mushroom that's in the shade from the forest canape blocking the light. So then I had to up my ISO, which I pushed up to 1600-3200, or sometimes I can use 400-or 200 iso if I'm in good lighting. Then you just play around with your aperture setting and that's half the fun I've been learning since i started using fully manual Nikkor lense's and manual mode on my Nikon D3300 DSLR. It gets me by decently for a camera that wasn't that expensive. I just wish it was a full frame sensor camera. I really want one of those because they can go with a lot of different lenses and I love to get old lenses from thrift stores or what not. I appreciate this video, it's going to help a ton of people with something that is really good to know how to do, and at first it really is a odd thing to try to get used to but once you fiddle with it enough it starts to eventually find it's flow, and you get this sorta approximated understanding of which direction you need to go (with your settings) and that feels cool. It's like learning another language or something.
Hey brother, I just subscribed to your channel from both of my accounts. I've been trying to get sharp photos for weeks and I watched so many videos with so many techniques yet I still couldn't achieve total sharpness that is until I stumbled across your video. You explained it so simple and so straight forward. I applied what you said and just like that super sharp photos! I'm extremely impressed and will be forever grateful! You Rock!!! Thank you. Definitely should have more views than you have!
7:51 i cant unsee it lol. I've had something like that happen to me in a podcast (still a newb) i appreciate this info you putting out my man. super valuable and explained it better than i could lol.
Don’t worry about the shirt-the content was so good I didn’t notice! And I would love to see a video on the less common reasons. Thank you for your videos!
I’m a novice hobbyist photographer who just purchased an A7R5 with decent lenses. And on my first day I was a bit disappointed because I felt my test images were not sharp. This honestly helped to remind me of the fundamentals. This video gets a like. I think I may need to subscribe as well.
as a novice photographer you bought a 4k$ camera and probably spent at least a 2k more on decent lenses? Hope the hobby stays man. That's hell of a lot of money to throw at a hobby that you're new to.
@@FireDramine7 lol your right. Can’t argue about that. But it wasn’t purchased all at once. Started with A600, got a zeis 55 1.8 after. Then a 70-200 F4 the following year, then maybe two years after a Batis 2.8…kept that kit for a while and finally the A7rV. So it’s something that piece by piece as a hobby I collect gear to try out new looks and ways of taking pictures for personal satisfaction. Makes for great family photos. But I’m no professional.
@@Notremah don't put yourself down man. Novice means you're completely new. In that case you're already a hobbyist photographer so I would just call yourself amateur. I thought you were completely new to photography.
I'll say that I absolutely love the images that a Mark IV can produce but if you want something almost foolproof the Canon R6 is way easier to get a sharp picture for a beginner. I speak from experience!
This is a great video and I agree with everything said. One additional thing to add: sometimes you just need a better camera. I shoot wildlife photography mostly. I used a Nikon D3300 (entry level DX camera) for years and I just wasn't happy with the results. Getting better lenses helped but I still struggled in shady areas and later in the afternoons (or early mornings). Getting ISO high enough to get sharp images meant the images had a ton of noise and were unusable. I upgraded to a camera with a better sensor and better low light capabilities and it made a huge difference. Now I can follow the tips in this video and get results I'm happy with.
So based on your basketball game example if you adjust SS to 1/2000, thus losing light. Would it be benefit you to increase ISO and bringing more noise into the shoot ?If so can you explain. I am trying to understand this based on your teachings from your beginners video("Increased ISO will add more noise to an image". So how will this sharpen the image if it brings more noise. Thanks
Ahh, that is a fantastic question. To me, a sharp photo is paramount, so I would choose to raise my ISO just to ensure I get a fast enough shutter speed. Yes, I'd get more noise, but that is a trade I'm willing to make.
@@forestchaput So does this mean that your subject will be sharper and background will have more noise ? Or will the photo overall be sharpe, but will have some noise ?
@@187McNasty if the gym is of such poor light than noise they get and most understand this. maybe bring lights to at least get one end well lite. charge according. ps- noise isn't they worse thing if it is for coverage but id if your client is trying to make posters again charge accordingly
Great video, but the fractional ratio for shutterspeed might be a bit of a dated fallacy, left over from the days of shooting film, for relatively small print production, this is especially evident with higher resolution sensors, and images that are often blown up large or cropped in on. There is a real consideration that must be taken for the level of detail that you aim to freeze. Shooting with more than 30mp may result in an image with details at 24mm that are visible at pixel deapth that expose the kind of movement that might be more of a concern at 200mm, and shooting with more than 50mp might make even shooting macros of flowers seem difficult to capture under a 1/500th sometimes. I jumped into the comments here early, admittedly to advise you about the value of an IRON, LOL, but am still watching the video while I type and will concur, the science to be cognizant of is the movement itself, and how fast across the frame, it will step across the pixels recorded while the shutter is open. What you've shared is great practical advice for those seeking better understanding for sure. That said sometime motion blur can be an artistic or intentional capture and design element.
The one thing I never see is a "deep dive" into a picture that looks sharp so we can see how sharp it is when we magnify it as much as we can. When I go deep... the picture NEVER looks "tac sharp". Therefore, I can never say the picture is sharp. (edit) It has been a year. I think I have unrealistic expectations of myself.
1/focal length came from 35mm. With a APS-C sensor the same lens will cover a tighter angle so camera shake will be magnified over the same focal length used with a 35mm frame. Which means that the rule isn't adequate.
I've been shooting events professionally for about 3 years, it's definitely one of the hardest things to shoot out of any shooting I have done. There is light/vs no light will play in hand, movement from the artist, knowing what lens will be best for what and if you can get it. But if you shoot events, you will learn quickly and be able to do everything else with ease lol.
Thanks a lot for the video. Great tips. A total beginner question: how do we apply the rule 1/focal length while using AutoFocus? Help much appreciated.
I’ve always erred towards aperture priority, but this video has made me rethink that and I’ve attained better shots of wildlife using shutter priority. It all comes down to the basics as usual; don’t use a shutter speed lower than focal length. Thanks for the sage advice.
Great explanation, very thorough. I'd add one thing too to get tack sharp photos is calibrating each lens to your camera body. Esp with my Nikons it made a Significant improvement
@@tacocat1705 hey, the process varies a little bit between cameras, but first you'll need to get a "lens focus calibration kit", usually about $10 on Amazon. Set it up across the room,camera on a tripod and focus on the center of the calibration tool. There should be a menu item in your camera to calibrate or adjust focus, something like that. You'll take a series of photos until it's tack sharp, but you'll also need to do it for each lens you use
Yes, my shirt is not ironed. I know it's "Ironic" that I'm talking about sharpness while simultaneously not looking the "sharpest." Anyway, thank you all for your comments, likes, shares, and subs. We really appreciate it! 😀
Stole my comment (shirt) 😃 Great advice, glad you have a sense of humor!
I am so happy you helped iron out things out for me.
If you have THINGS bouncing around in your head, you should see a doctor.
That sounds like a most serious medical condition.
Greetings and best wishes from Germany, Home of WW2.
@@beths8998 😂😂
@Ray V Lol 😜
Young man I have been a professional photographer since 1980 and I have to tell you that is one of the best videos I have seen on how to get sharp photographs!👏👏👏
Thank you very much! That means a lot.
George I want to just pause to thank you for encouraging young people. 🙏
I been a personal photographer since 1201 and i can too approve this video
@@DeepSeaManta serk(rkjoy saws Essa Sssa away A Dad sss
I starting working in the 90's and said the same thing about the video. He even gave examples and showed that you have to understand the basics of light and nothing is set in stone!!!!
This may have already mentioned in the comments but I would like to add one more thing. New photographers don't know to set their focus mode. There's one for stills and one for tracking moving subjects. Nikon and Canon call their single focus mode AF-S or One Shot. It will only focus your camera the one time when you press the shutter button. This is great for landscape when nothing is moving. It's the wrong mode to use for moving subjects. For moving subjects you will want to use AF-C or AI Servo. As long as your shutter button, or back button,
is half pressed/pressed, your camera will continue to track the subject until you press the shutter button. Back button focus is the best option to use because it disconnects the function of focusing from the shutter button. You can always keep your camera in continuous focus mode. If you have a still subject just press the button once. If your subject is moving you just hold the button down until you take the picture. Good video by the way.
Good timing 😉 Camera Focus and Drive Modes EXPLAINED.
th-cam.com/video/IK0hwWLMj_c/w-d-xo.html
Commenting to reference later.
Even better anticipate the subject's movements and focus by hand since sometimes If you don't use high end stuff the autofocus will never be fast enough :D
AFC is fine for still subjects if you use back button focus
@@cynic252 yes that's true. But if you only tap the bbf it will act like single focus mode. It only acts like continuous focus mode if you hold the button down.
I always chose lower iso over shutter speed. Now I understand perhaps why I lacked sharper photos. Great practical info
But high iso more noise 😢
@@aiqalosky9449noise is much less of a problem than a photo that's intrinsically unsharp because of subject/camera motion.
Even my 10 year old DSLR is pretty good up to ISO 3200, and the newer ones are better still with another stop or two.
@@aiqalosky9449high ISO doesn't mean more noise! That's so false. If a photo is exposed right it can have a high ISO and still isn't noisy. And there is no point in having blurry photos but at least there is no noise right? So just do what it takes to get it exposed properly and have it sharp.
@aiqalosky9449 please watch Simon's video on iso so you would be less scared to change your iso once in a while
Amen, Brother!
I've ruined a lot of potentially great shots by working in Aperture priority to get just that perfect DOF only to discover later that my shutter speed was just a bit too slow and the critical bits of the image weren't sharp - especially the eyes! This can be so disappointing. Your suggestions are spot on.
A quick suggestion for experimenters:
1. put your camera in manual mode
2. set ISO to automatic
3. dial shutter speed to something manageable based on your intended shooting for the day and light conditions - 1/125, 1/250, 1/400
Now, your shutter speed should compensate for any hand-held shake and you can simply dial in the f-stop based on your desired DOF keeping an eye on your light meter. I've personally found that I can get very good results in post even when I've shot underexposed at -1.0 EV and some up to -2.0 EV as long as I'm not asking too much of it.
Just a thought.
Crackin' great video and excellent explanations. Many thanks!
Cheers, mate!
J
Excellent advice! After watching numerous videos I came to this exact conclusion!😊
I am rewatching this video several months later and the shutter speed advise has improved the quality of my photos I still have work to do but absolutely helpful.
Thanks for sharing, we are glad to help!
Great points in this video. For a long time, I was scared of increasing my ISO because of the fear of noisier images, but I came to find out that it's almost always a small price to pay in comparison to an image that isn't sharp.
Since ALL photographers use post-edit on their photos image noise is more acceptable than shapness I believe.
@@NerdGlassGamingPA we can de-noise a picture, but cant sharpen that is already blurred.
Great tips. I know it's a compromise, but I'll usually take a sharp image over noise. My tip I'll give I was actually told by another pro when shooting presentations/podium shoots - 125 shutter is bare minimum, Yes, in low light situations you sometimes have to push the ISO further than you'd like but it's worth it. I photographed some executives recently doing a presentation and I was seated so I said "1/60 is OK". Guess what? - when I previewed a few during the shoot I realized too many weren't sharp enough. When I pushed the ISO to give the one extra stop going to 1/125 the results were consistently better. Sometimes it is a game of inches - little things do make a difference.
Topaz Denoise is also an incredible tool for this, I shoot wildlife and sometimes get up to 8000 ISO, if everything else is correct their Ai suite will fix the noise very nicely
You are the first person to really explain it that no one ever has and in a way I haven't understood before. This helps so much! I had these struggles with shutter and images not being in focus properly when I zoomed in the subject was blurry. Thank you so much!
Wow thank you! Glad to help!
There are more factors that can make photos unsharp.
The aperture:
Lenses are generally sharper two stops from maximum aperture. i.e. f5.6.
Stopping too far down (f22 or f32) will cause diffraction and loss of sharpness.
Exposure:
Especially with film, overexposure can cause a loss of sharpness.
Yes good add on!
This is such an important thing to know while also being something that I almost never see talked about. I didn't understand it was something I should be thinking about at all until I started watching Christopher Frost's lens reviews years ago.
Unless your a specialized professional possessing limited production-run photo/cinematography uber-glass made by Zeiss, Schneider, Rodenstock, etc.
I remember when my dad, who worked for NASA, took me to a lens factory in Rochester NY and I saw a batch of photo lenses being ground, individually checked under an interferometer and painstakingly hand assembled.
As a kid I asked, why couldn't a Canon or Nikon lens be used. The gentlemen replied that those lenses serve a purpose very-well but ultimately are toys.
This is a somewhat outdated idea.
And even more:
ISO (more detail and sharpness in a lower ISO)
Mirror or shutter shock
As a former photo instructor, who has given this lesson many times, Great Job!
Wow, thanks!
There's one thing I think that may have been good to mention in this video -> Depending on the angle that you shoot at, it's possible for the camera to autofocus on the subject's closer extremities, rather than their eyes or torso (or whatever you desire). It's most common in up-close shots, and I've been guilty in the past of shooting a session where some of the photos are OOF because the focus was on their nose or shoulder and I was shooting at a downward angle. An easy trap to fall in.
hello thanks so much for the motivation
I always suggest to new shooters and even enthusiasts; 1/125 unless you have to bring it down no less than 1/60 for wide angle/default lenses, and then lenses above 50mm 2.5xlens focal length to be on safe side or faster if moving.and use the lens aperture of 2 stops over the lenses specified widest aperture. but that's just the basic rule i use along with ISO 100 outside, 400 shaded/inside 800 or higher in darkness.
Or 8000 ISO when you're shooting a BIF with a 600mm lens handheld! haha
@@mdc123-v2v lol
Bro am using a 75-300mm lens .. Whats the best shutter speed to shoot human potraits in daylight outdoors.. I need good sharpness
@@dennysebastian4017 minimum of 1/125th but at 300mm you want to be around 1/500+ to 1/1000+, but depends on camera and lens shake compensation at the sharpest f/stop
@@GaryParris Thanks bro for the tip.
Great video, seriously. Honest, detailed AND easy to grasp information. You know what you’re talking about. You don’t edit your video with a ton of cuts every second. And one of my pet peeves you avoid- you pronounce “photographer” correctly! 😂 TH-camrs that say “phurtography” then say “photo” make me stop the video immediately- you don’t. Much praise, sir. Cheers.
hahaha, thank you much!
One thing I would have appreciated is mentioning using shutter speed artistically, you don't always need to get everything completely tack sharp, especially things like moving water looks really nice with a slower shutter speed because it shows the movement of the flowing water, in the same sense for the basketball example I think you could make some really nice shots if you were be able to get the players tack sharp but have the ball with some motion blur to show movement.
Thanks!
If you all want a video on the other (less common) reasons your images might not be tack sharp, let me know in the comments!
Yes please!
You are good at explaining complex subjects! Concise, and not too fast/not too slow/just right! Whether someone has some photography experience refreshing their knowledge or are just hearing this for the first time, there is something for everyone in the well-done video. 👍
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Forrest, I wish I had seen this video long ago. You've made it crystal clear. Its going to solve the problem for me. Thank you.
You're welcome.
I just got back from photographing some summer flowers with my lovely Canon 100mm. L f/2.8 macro lens, and was disappointed at the lack of sharpness. I think you fixed it - going to try again when the sun comes back. I usually shoot aperture priority, but I jiggle a little and the flowers move a little in the breeze. Thank you! I’ll pay more attention to shutter speed in future.
I've got that lens and know exactly what you're talking about. Shooting flowers, in particular, can be an exercise in frustration. Wind is a mortal enemy. Then, there's the crack-thin DOF that a lot of macro lenses (this one included) suffer from. A tripod is nearly an absolute must and - if you think you're going to really love the image and it's worth the time - focus bracketing can make a huge difference. PS and LR can both handle focus stacks and these can pull together a breath-taking image if you've had the patience (and a bit of luck).
Cheers!
J
Most camera systems have either in-body or in-lens stabilisation which is a great help to get sharp pictures - with my Olympus E-M1 I can hand hold with a 35mm equivalent 50mm prime at up to 2 seconds with no camera shake - and I drink coffee and I'm over 60 years old! The stabilisation also helps manual focusing because the camera shake is neutralised and you see more clearly through the viewfinder.
This the first video on taking sharp photos with dslr, that has truly benefitted me. Thanks...
The lore is that the 1/(focal length) rule for shutter speed came from old school, medium format press photographers. And that generally works on my RZ67. But for a 35mm size digital/film camera that's not enough. Thus, his advice to add an additional stop of shutter speed is sound. For 35mm I use 1/(2x focal length) if using a non-stabilized lens, I try to use 1/125 for a 50mm lens on FF, and also for my RZ67 with the 110mm lens.
Why not just go with the quickest shutter for the preferred aperture (at least if you are going for the sharpest shot)?
I do go for the quickest shutter. But the rule is a mental one that says, "if the quickest shutter is not at least X, then you can't shoot this handheld." So the rule is a go/no-go decision point for handheld. Not a rule that tells me where to set the shutter.
@@eyesonly4451 Well, different techniques can be used to improve the chances of taking a sharp shot, including those used by snipers (muscle relaxation, controlled breathing, use of the sling), also delayed trigger and burst shooting, not to mention the optical image stabilization can be pretty good in itself. But for a less controlled environment I guess that's a good rule of thumb.
@@getsideways7257 I agree. And if haven't had too much caffeine, can get my breathing just right, and press the shutter so that it releases between heartbeats, I may can do a little better. But that's a lot of 'ifs'. So it's just a rule of thumb that tells men when I'm approaching the limit of handheld, and need to breakout the tripod, which is the only real option for film. I guess cameras with auto-ISO have a third option, but that seems to be cheating in some way.
@@eyesonly4451 Indeed, a tripod is the only option for that. As for auto-ISO, not really a fan of going up the ISO scale, but sometimes there is no other choice.
Bro! Way to explain everything in such a succinct manner. And you have zero douche factor, and are a natural teacher. Subscribed & liked. Look forward to seeing more of your videos. Awesome.
Thanks for the kind words! I appreciate you.
1:54 "That shake is gonna pickup if my shutterspeed is too slow" simple yet brilliant. The way you said that made something click (no pun intended)👍
yay so glad!! haha
A book I read pointed out that you often don't want a too fast shutterspeed as to capture motion. For example a photograph where you're capturing people walking, you don't want to completely freeze the frame but rather want some motion in the image which is achieved by having a slower shutterspeed like 1/60. Flowing water is also a nice example but there both sides of the spectrum, while completely different, are very desirable.
As a motorsport photographer. The shutter speed doesn't seem to apply for panning shots. Sure a 200 mm set at 1/200's with show a sharp motioned image but won't give a good sense of speed.
Thanks. Knowing i need to keep my shutter speed higher than my focal length changes everything for me as a beginner.
Happy to help!
Great breakdown of the difference between focus and sharpness. I like your teaching style with good real world examples, easy sub for me.
Awesome, thank you!
It’s rare that a TH-cam video would have simple, step by step, basic English instructions. I learnt a lot. THANK YOU!
Glad to hear!!
Very helpful video! This makes a lot of sense! I've always been so hesitant to increase the ISO because I didn't want to introduce a bunch of noise into my photos, but then the photos of my kids indoors would all be so blurry and i would discard at least half of them. So finally, at the next birthday party I increased the ISO so i could increase the shutter speed and I was MUCH happier with the photos as a whole!
Glad it was helpful!
Same! It's still a bit noisy for me so figuring out the right balance right now!
This is genuinly the best video about solving a problem I have had without understanding that I have had it. Thank you!
Great to hear! Thanks so much for watching!
Good advice on shutter speed. I'm trying to use old manual lenses - so no stabilisation - so my strategy is to use Shutter Priority with Auto ISO with an upper limit of say 3200, as the old lenses have an aperture ring. Then I can keep my shutter speed at the high end and the ISO will compensate automatically. That gives me full control over shutter speed and aperture.
I have a lot of vintage manual focus lenses and I find that getting 100% accurate manual focus, especially when shooting wide open, is very hard because the focus indicator in the viewfinder (Nikon D600) lights up when the focus is only approximately correct. To get it just right can only happen by sheer luck. That is why I mainly use the vintage lenses when I shoot on a tripod and I can use the live view feature on the camera's display at maximum zoom to actually see the focus at pixel level. Which is of course only possible when you shoot at inanimate objects.
It was a fantastic video and really brought into mind what it means to be sharp over in focus.
Not only was this video clear, no pun intended, you come off as such a likable teacher that kept me watching the entire video. You have a new subscriber!
Thanks Steve!
Thank-you for making this explanation simplistic yet concise, on how shutter speed affects photography.
My pleasure!
Simply the best, better than all the rest. I loved how you made something that sounds quite complicated sound so simple. Thank you and good luck.
Someone once said "The best lens is a tripod." It can be hard to hold a camera still while composing, focusing, and pressing the shutter button. But the routine for keeping things sharp is the same which is taught for shooting (guns, not cameras). Way back when I was a young man in basic training in the Army, I was taught to fire a rifle. The drills sergeants (not the most pleasant guys) enforced important points. First was a good stance (prone, kneeling, or standing), careful breathing (pause your breath as you exhale, then fire), and pulling the trigger properly to prevent movement of the rifle. In regards to cameras, they are smaller and lighter than rifles, which actually makes them more difficult to keep still. I shoot film, usually ASA 400, and in favorite shooting conditions, I usually shoot at f/8 at 1/125 of a second. This shutter speed and a steady hand give me sharp images. If things get a little darker, I open up the aperture a little rather than slowing down the shutter. If I do have to choose a slower shutter speed, I compensate by paying more attention to the basic steps I remember from learning to shoot a rifle.
For newbies as myself I did not understand alot of this. It would have been easier if you showed us on the camera step by step of what you where talking about. It would take more time for you to make this video. But more understandable for us who don't no anything about cameras. Thank you for doing this video though.
I'm a novice photographer as well and have no idea about anything photography-related past setting my camera up and seeing what looks right, but this video made sense. Even the jargon.
I'd suggest just looking up some more info about how cameras work and this video should be clearer to you really soon, and I don't mean that in a condescending way at all.
I like what I perceive of this individual as a person; void of ego, has a pleasant voice, an excitement about teaching, exudes warmth, and authenticity...
Thank you 🙂
I've never heard of the rule at 2:37, about keeping shutter speed faster than 1/[focal length]. Thanks, that's already a huge help!
i remember when i first learned manual photography i always overexposed my photos but when i started editing my photos that was a game changer
Good information, great delivery. Broke it down really well for this novice. Thanks man.
Brilliant. You took the relatively complex and made it digestible in a single run.
THANK you.
Thanks for guiding me back to basics. After all my years you have made more sense on this important topic than I have ever experienced before. I hope I see better sharper images in future . I will also turn off the stabiliser and only use it as you have described.
Your video was so good I didn’t notice your shirt. Thank you. It’s nothing a drier sheet can’t fix. Your presentation was very clear and easy to understand.
Great vid. Wouldve appreciated if you had included some examples, but the explanation was flawless.
Noted!
This was very helpful. I've been having problems with focus and sharpness. I've been shooting for 45 years, mostly analogue. It was never an issue. Got some interesting tips from a knowledgeable guy a good camera store. One tip was to shoot in bursts, and crazy enough, it helped somewhat as the subjects were moving slightly. My Fuji x lenses zoomed out to 300mm go down only to f5.6. Big problems in low light. Under exposing by 1 stops helps a little. My hand's pretty steady still. It seems the more advanced the camera and lenses get, the worse my pictures get. I can easily throw out half of them and that used to be a much higher percentage when using analogue and fast lenses.
Thanks for sharing!
Re: The Shirt. So what! It's the subject matter that counts. Good job. I've only seen a few of your videos but those have been helpful. Thanks for the effort.
Thanks so much really appreciate you!
Thank you for a great explanation of compensating for light to make up for increased shutter speed.
Glad it was helpful!
What about crop camera ? On a Fuji using a 35mm lens is it recommended to use 1/35 or do we need to consider the crop factor ?
I appreciate the way u present .very lively and I straight away subscribe and ring the bell ! Thank you
Thanks for the sub!!
You can add about shutter speed that if you use a tripot or fix the kamera in another way then remember to stop the built in stabilasation. If it is on the camera will wibrate when you take the picture.
My question is, is it possible to hold the camera so steady it messes with ibis? Ever take a shot sitting with the camera in your lap with the screen tilted up at you?
yes boy the camera is shaking, you have a wide cultural and technical vocabulary for this field. The stabilisation comes from the brain balance either you right or left inclination on the tripod when you screw the camera on the tripod.
Omg! I could just hug you for this video. This, this, this! This was the answer I was looking for! ❤
Great video - Kai W put out a video recently about freezing high speed action with flash, as often even higher speeds don’t actually freeze the motion as effectively as a flash! (But flash isn’t always an option
)
Thank you for these golden tips, which I didn't know for years. I learned from my father that taking an analog picture should start at 1/60sec or higher, unless you put it on a tripod. It's only with modern gear and stabilization that you can shoot slower.
I once saw a video of a guy so proud to have learned his 5 year grandson to successfully take flying birds at 1/500sec, the photos being sharp. I couldn't take anything with these kind of settings (with an 450D) and a Sigma 170-500mm (no stab), even at 400mm. Ok, that kid had a 5D with a Canon pro/prime lens.
When I learned I should start at 1000-2000 for anything that is moving wildlife, I finally came home with brilliant pictures, even with this old slow lens and out of hand.
And don't forget: you need to compensate for many things on crop sensors.
This was super helpful! I’ve been having issues with images being hit or miss with regards to images being sharp. I can’t wait to apply what I just learned from you.
Absolutely brilliant video. The way you speak and clearly articulate your message is outstanding.
Wow, thank you!
Excellent advice.... especially about checking the sharpness before an event. I thought I was good at one point and shot an entire game only to have to throw out 50% of the photos. Some blur can be cool but sparingly of course. Thanks for the good, well explained subject matter.
Bro you are a great teacher! Straight to the point and so clear a baby can understand! You got a new sub!
Haha thank you!
Thanks so much for all your great advice Forrest!
We are always learning from your expertise! So good to see you even if it is virtual! Parker and Carla
Thanks you two!
I learned so much here, even things I didn't expect to learn. I really appreciate your thoroughness and care for your audience. Thank you so very much.
My pleasure!
There’s also another aspect which you missed, pixel count. Having a 61mp image with say a 85mm lens is an equivalent of using a 135mm lens on a 20-24mp camera (roughly I don’t know the exact formula) because when you view it at 1:1 pixels it’s tighter in.
I wouldnt say its the same exactly as you always have more data and flexability with the wider shot at higher Mpx, however i get the point your trying to make yes using a camera with higher Mpx and shorter focal length can produce the same result when cropping as a longer focal length on a smaller sensor (provided your using a good quality lens.) This is why you can produce almost identical images with aps-c and MFT cameras that you can with full frame/35mm film cameras. The limitation is usually the ammount of light captured you often can't get aparature wide enough to match for a FF equivalent (i.e. when you do the math you can find you would need aparatures of
This makes more sense. I was constantly changing the settings feeling like I was just wasting my time. Thanks.
Glad to be of some help to your workflow! Thanks for watching!
Great video. It seems like my photos are always not very sharp. Now that I've experimented with your suggestions, my photos are better(sharper) with higher shutter speeds. Thanks so much.
Yeah I have been really enjoying experimenting with "how to get my nature photos sharp even in different lighting situations" I've learned that I really like when I can get a sharp photo as well as a sorta dark esthetic vibe to my photos, that's my favorite area to be working in currently. It's really a balancing act of balancing shadows, bright spots, crisp detail with your focus that's not overdone from too high of ISO or something that creates noise (static type effect). So I started playing and testing things and it's funny, you get everything dialed in, but, that's for that specific spot, so you sorta learn this process of letting go and being okay with being adaptive and flexible when exploring and taking photos in manual mode. Once I find I can use a shutter speed of 1/80th- 1/100th to take a picture on the forest floor and it being sharp focus, while also giving me room for playing with my aperture, because I love getting a good depth of field in a photo when you can, so I found I'm going to take a picture of a mushroom that's in the shade from the forest canape blocking the light. So then I had to up my ISO, which I pushed up to 1600-3200, or sometimes I can use 400-or 200 iso if I'm in good lighting. Then you just play around with your aperture setting and that's half the fun I've been learning since i started using fully manual Nikkor lense's and manual mode on my Nikon D3300 DSLR. It gets me by decently for a camera that wasn't that expensive. I just wish it was a full frame sensor camera. I really want one of those because they can go with a lot of different lenses and I love to get old lenses from thrift stores or what not. I appreciate this video, it's going to help a ton of people with something that is really good to know how to do, and at first it really is a odd thing to try to get used to but once you fiddle with it enough it starts to eventually find it's flow, and you get this sorta approximated understanding of which direction you need to go (with your settings) and that feels cool. It's like learning another language or something.
Hey brother, I just subscribed to your channel from both of my accounts. I've been trying to get sharp photos for weeks and I watched so many videos with so many techniques yet I still couldn't achieve total sharpness that is until I stumbled across your video. You explained it so simple and so straight forward. I applied what you said and just like that super sharp photos! I'm extremely impressed and will be forever grateful! You Rock!!! Thank you. Definitely should have more views than you have!
Thank you! I'm so glad the video was helpful!
7:51 i cant unsee it lol. I've had something like that happen to me in a podcast (still a newb) i appreciate this info you putting out my man. super valuable and explained it better than i could lol.
Don’t worry about the shirt-the content was so good I didn’t notice! And I would love to see a video on the less common reasons. Thank you for your videos!
I’m a novice hobbyist photographer who just purchased an A7R5 with decent lenses. And on my first day I was a bit disappointed because I felt my test images were not sharp. This honestly helped to remind me of the fundamentals. This video gets a like. I think I may need to subscribe as well.
as a novice photographer you bought a 4k$ camera and probably spent at least a 2k more on decent lenses? Hope the hobby stays man. That's hell of a lot of money to throw at a hobby that you're new to.
@@FireDramine7 lol your right. Can’t argue about that. But it wasn’t purchased all at once. Started with A600, got a zeis 55 1.8 after. Then a 70-200 F4 the following year, then maybe two years after a Batis 2.8…kept that kit for a while and finally the A7rV. So it’s something that piece by piece as a hobby I collect gear to try out new looks and ways of taking pictures for personal satisfaction. Makes for great family photos. But I’m no professional.
@@Notremah don't put yourself down man. Novice means you're completely new. In that case you're already a hobbyist photographer so I would just call yourself amateur. I thought you were completely new to photography.
I'll say that I absolutely love the images that a Mark IV can produce but if you want something almost foolproof the Canon R6 is way easier to get a sharp picture for a beginner. I speak from experience!
You touched an important matter! Thank you for your detailing this and showing us how to solve these problems with blurry photos!
Glad to help!
This is a great video and I agree with everything said. One additional thing to add: sometimes you just need a better camera.
I shoot wildlife photography mostly. I used a Nikon D3300 (entry level DX camera) for years and I just wasn't happy with the results. Getting better lenses helped but I still struggled in shady areas and later in the afternoons (or early mornings). Getting ISO high enough to get sharp images meant the images had a ton of noise and were unusable.
I upgraded to a camera with a better sensor and better low light capabilities and it made a huge difference. Now I can follow the tips in this video and get results I'm happy with.
What did you upgrade to?
@@lucasdurante_ Nikon Z6 II
(Not sure why I didn't include that in my original comment)
Very good public speaker. Good info, and a pleasure to watch.
So based on your basketball game example if you adjust SS to 1/2000, thus losing light. Would it be benefit you to increase ISO and bringing more noise into the shoot ?If so can you explain. I am trying to understand this based on your teachings from your beginners video("Increased ISO will add more noise to an image". So how will this sharpen the image if it brings more noise. Thanks
Ahh, that is a fantastic question. To me, a sharp photo is paramount, so I would choose to raise my ISO just to ensure I get a fast enough shutter speed. Yes, I'd get more noise, but that is a trade I'm willing to make.
@@forestchaput So does this mean that your subject will be sharper and background will have more noise ? Or will the photo overall be sharpe, but will have some noise ?
@@187McNasty if the gym is of such poor light than noise they get and most understand this. maybe bring lights to at least get one end well lite. charge according. ps- noise isn't they worse thing if it is for coverage but id if your client is trying to make posters again charge accordingly
Buy fast lens to increase apertur
For basketball I use these settings: ISO 800-1250 depending on venue light. Shutter speed 640-800, f2.8. Works well.
Thank you - good advice from a good teacher is always good - happy to watch
So nice of you!
Great video, but the fractional ratio for shutterspeed might be a bit of a dated fallacy, left over from the days of shooting film, for relatively small print production, this is especially evident with higher resolution sensors, and images that are often blown up large or cropped in on. There is a real consideration that must be taken for the level of detail that you aim to freeze. Shooting with more than 30mp may result in an image with details at 24mm that are visible at pixel deapth that expose the kind of movement that might be more of a concern at 200mm, and shooting with more than 50mp might make even shooting macros of flowers seem difficult to capture under a 1/500th sometimes. I jumped into the comments here early, admittedly to advise you about the value of an IRON, LOL, but am still watching the video while I type and will concur, the science to be cognizant of is the movement itself, and how fast across the frame, it will step across the pixels recorded while the shutter is open. What you've shared is great practical advice for those seeking better understanding for sure. That said sometime motion blur can be an artistic or intentional capture and design element.
The one thing I never see is a "deep dive" into a picture that looks sharp so we can see how sharp it is when we magnify it as much as we can. When I go deep... the picture NEVER looks "tac sharp". Therefore, I can never say the picture is sharp. (edit) It has been a year. I think I have unrealistic expectations of myself.
Wish I had this video when I was new to photography! Best instructional video on photography I’ve seen 🙌
It might be worth mentioning that lenses have best sharpness at certain apertures
Good video, a great message, and the execution was fantastic. Thank you...
Much appreciated!
This is really good info - But dam iron that shirt, the perfectionist in me could not take my eyes off those wrinkles -
Hahaha, thanks. And yes, I agree 100%
He’s teaching us lighting too
I'm just beginning my journey on being a photographer. Your advice will really help me alot . Thanks so muc.
How you gonna tell me how to shoot sharp
Pics when your shirt looks beyond wrinkled lol ok
Hahahaha. Yep. I sure am!
500 plus 1.4 converter/ 700
Plusx1.6 for R 7 = 1142 mm
This explains a lot many thanks
Rob
1/focal length came from 35mm. With a APS-C sensor the same lens will cover a tighter angle so camera shake will be magnified over the same focal length used with a 35mm frame. Which means that the rule isn't adequate.
I've been shooting events professionally for about 3 years, it's definitely one of the hardest things to shoot out of any shooting I have done. There is light/vs no light will play in hand, movement from the artist, knowing what lens will be best for what and if you can get it. But if you shoot events, you will learn quickly and be able to do everything else with ease lol.
Haha agreed! It definitely stretches the creative part of the brain to get those kinds of shots! It is rare to have amazing lighting at events.
Thank you for these pearls and discussing the importance of Shutter speed and sharp photos. mabuhay ka!
Thanks a lot for the video. Great tips. A total beginner question: how do we apply the rule 1/focal length while using AutoFocus? Help much appreciated.
Thanks for explaining VR. Super helpful video! Actually best video out there!
Thanks!
Excellent, very easy listening , simple to understand, many thanks
I’ve always erred towards aperture priority, but this video has made me rethink that and I’ve attained better shots of wildlife using shutter priority. It all comes down to the basics as usual; don’t use a shutter speed lower than focal length. Thanks for the sage advice.
Yees, I've definitely noticed this too. Balancing using high enough iso to get a good shutter speed but not getting too much noise is important
Great job, professionally delivered, spot-on (pun intended) content. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for reminding us of this basic truth, have known this for 50 years, still get wrong sometimes when I not paying attention ☺️
Great man! Great video! Really clear and very informative. Thank you so much for all your work!
My pleasure! Glad that it was helpful!
Fantastic l informative video. You’re great at conveying your point across step by step with examples
Glad it was helpful!
A practical demonstration could have make this video the best among others. Kudos ❤️
Wow, thank you!
Excellent share! One of the best explanations I’ve heard. Thank you!
Great explanation, very thorough. I'd add one thing too to get tack sharp photos is calibrating each lens to your camera body. Esp with my Nikons it made a Significant improvement
How can I do that? My 50mm is in focus but not sharp at all
@@tacocat1705 hey, the process varies a little bit between cameras, but first you'll need to get a "lens focus calibration kit", usually about $10 on Amazon. Set it up across the room,camera on a tripod and focus on the center of the calibration tool. There should be a menu item in your camera to calibrate or adjust focus, something like that. You'll take a series of photos until it's tack sharp, but you'll also need to do it for each lens you use
This is one of the BEST instructional videos! thank you!
Glad it was helpful!