Good technique, those 980 Tis are famous for catching fire and burning a hole in the PCB. I have a couple of donor 980 Tis on my shelf where that exact bottom powerstage burned out.
In a case like this limey, you must use a dremel digger tool with a ball that will proceed down from the top to cut the copper into very thin top down action.
I've fixed 3 of this exact model in the last 4 months! I haven't even watched the video yet (paused at 4 seconds) it I'm going to take a guess at the issue: Bottom two DrMos blow up with extreme violence, haha. That's my guess. The reason will be one of the phase doublers or the voltage regulator itself. Let's see and I'll update if any info I have is relevant. Back to the video. EDIT: I was too impatient and fast forwarded. Yup, what I stated and a couple other issues. You could just remove that entire bottom phase. It doesn't need all those phases to work and I can send you a basic diagram of what DrMos goes to what choke (as well as what doubler goes to what DrMos). You'd still have to grind down those DrMos that fused to the board and make sure they aren't shorting and then remove their respective choke just to be safe. Still, those can operate at 100% with those bottom two DrMos/phase entirely removed. It was under-engineered with overkill...somehow. All in all, those 980ti cards were horribly made. I suspect they would have quietly been forgotten but the current GPU market is so insane and a 980ti is still so good that broken ones are now coming to light like zombies, haha. All with the same basic problem.
I'll look into that mate, but I'd say I definitely at least need to replace the voltage reg first. I would much rather try and fix it fully though if I'm going to do anything with it
@@TheCod3r For sure. FYI, most times it's the phase doubler more than the voltage regulator but all can be bought for about £8 if you wanted to replace all 4. However, if you just want to try the doubler for the bottom two DrMos, it's the one sitting highest of the 3. If you look at the board from GPU chip-side (with power pins upper right orientation), the add-on board holds the regulator and three doublers. The top doubler controls the bottom two DrMos, middle the middle mos and bottom doubler the top mos. Kind of opposite of what seems intuitive. Also, some mos share a coil and others don't. Good luck! I say this to let you know how you can test the card as good without that phase because first to avoid risk of blowing up new chips.
Lol. So you're the other guy I'm competing against. I've got four of these, two that are the reference PCB (FE), one MSI and one Gigabyte. The FE's seem to all have the same memory power phase mosfet issue, sometimes blowing up the choke. I've actually not run into a bad power phase mosfet issue yet. 3/4 have bad memory power phases and one simply had a bad pex buck converter.
@@DannyWilliamH Is the doubler for the bottom two mosfets marked as U8 or have I got the orientation wrong? I've got a board with the same issues you described, bottom two mosfets blown and I'm trying to fix it. Is it possible to send the diagram?
True Jason! very true. In all honesty I think its recoverable, We know Phil has the skill set to do the operation. Its just having time from his busy work/family time to use new/second hand parts to do it. I'm very optimistic as you know, also I always put Phil high up on the pedestal, he & your self deserve to be up there IMHO. 😊👍🏻
I have one that's way worse, the same drmos burned all the way through the board. Cut that whole area off to remove the char. Might get it going again in limp mode if i can figure out what goes where, wish me luck.
30:10 Yeah, my Titan X has that too; I dremeled off the shorted phase, and it works. I was surprised too. It needs that phase replaced; if Vcore power draw isn't kept minimal, it shuts off the PSU. I suspect the card had the fan fail, and the eBay seller (or whoever they got it from) Just ripped the dead fan off and came up with some bullshit story for why it wasn't there, then sold it hoping people would think they broke it by running it without a fan, or by the time they bought a fan and tried to run it, they wouldn't be able to return it anymore. I was able to get a refund and keep the card; that's when I decided to hail marry attempt a fix. Now I'm waiting on a hot air gun to swap one of the power balancing FETs to where the dead one was.
@@TheCod3r I've four of the evga cards three 1070 and a 1080 all not working. I'm from Huddersfield and could be worth letting you have a look at them. I bought them from an auction all have the security stickers intact 👍
hi i have this problem when something happen and i can't solder part in it's original place i put ic in near location on board and using 0.1mm soldering wire and wiring ic to it's pad on board i glue back of ic using thermal silicon adhesive to secure it
Hey Cod3r, would you have a suggestion for a video of actually going through a repair like the one in this video? This was on track to be an incredibly valuable video; shame that it wasn't completed.
Hey can you help me i have exact same issue, voltage regulator blown, replaced voltage regulator and removed 3 power stages got to know one more power stage was dead and voltage regulator blew again and now i have all 4 removed and waiting for voltsge regulator to come again but whats causing it to blow?
@@TheCod3r Yep it really is. It beats my roommate's 3070 in most things, it just can't do RTX. The 3070 (aside from RTX) would definitely be a sidegrade to me. I'd have to get a 3080 or 3080ti for it to truly be an upgrade.
Wish I would have took pictures of my old 970 from back in the day. I was in the middle of playing wow and it literally burst in flames. By the time I could get the side panel off. Card and motherboard was toast.
Ouch that sucks mate. I had it once myself too, a bad hard drive shorted out and caught fire but I don't tend to keep a side panel on my computer so I got really lucky
On those mosfets chips, I noticed some are marked Sic789 AX and some other 980Ti's have the suffix AF? Any idea what those 2 letters mean? On your card, the voltage controller for the vrm, is it 3v or 5v?
Ah man such a shame. I saw this and thought, ooh, I’ve got a fubar evga gtx 770 you could have for parts but alas it’s not to be. As you say these often weld themselves nicely and the components are hard enough to remove at the best of times due to the massive heat sink of the board. I’d have been tempted to try and use the bga machine for the lower heat panel to help with the solder putting bits back on but either way those chips were beyond that being welded 🙁 Speaking of bga machine, my r9 380 artifacted the other day. Worked when I pressed on the gpu hard though so I reflowed it with my hob, multimeter temp probe and hot air station. Never worked again 🤣 Should have sent it to you in the first place 🤦♂️
To be honest I wouldn't really take on artifacting repairs because most of the time it's down to the gpu failing, and reflowing and reballing doesn't fix that because the issue is internal on the gpu chip itself not the solder balls underneath
@@TheCod3r Is that really the case? Seen a bunch of northridge fix videos and a few of my own broken gpus I've sold that ended up being repaired had bad mosfets causing artifacts but I've not much experience myself. How often have you run across that being the issue instead?
If I had a 980ti I would probably put a fuse on each phase before the copper melted I would make sure it was fused. This would be a bodge but would only be on my personal board.
Friendly reminder. DO NOT SHIP YOUR GPU WITHOUT PASTING GPU CORE. It is under intense pressure under that tension. Give it the goo or that last bump to the box will be its end.
You moving to gpu now good move man your good with soldering and hot air so hopefully you nail these beauty's too come to discord we have a awsome community for gpu advice welcome brother to the headaches unless your TC he don't suffer with those 😂
Yeah to be honest I'll work on anything as long as it can be a viable fix but I just haven't really advertised for them much. I will be in the future though :)
Nice try man. Cant save everything and this one def. had a very bad short. I bet if you'd replace those things it still wouldnt work tbh. Hes better off buying a second hand 750ti. Cheap and still decent. Or 1050ti if he wants a bit more gaming power with a lower budget.
Good technique, those 980 Tis are famous for catching fire and burning a hole in the PCB. I have a couple of donor 980 Tis on my shelf where that exact bottom powerstage burned out.
Yeah they aren't exactly very resilient, great performing cards though
Glad to see you here :)
tech cemetry in the house.
the king of gpu repair
I have the reference 980ti as well but my mosfet indicates Sic789 AF, T 542. Any idea what the difference is between AF and the AX mosfets?
@@TheCod3r im still using one now in one of my streaming pcs.... problem i find is the card gets very hot even tho i have re pasted it
Love your repair videos. Sometimes you got to know when to hold them and know when to walk away.
In a case like this limey, you must use a dremel digger tool with a ball that will proceed down from the top to cut the copper into very thin top down action.
Next time use dremmer to slowly shave welded components of the board preserving the pad to some degree.
Something different, which makes it more fun as you don't always know the answers and have more to figure out
If I ever have a board issues then I think it’s best to contact you. Great video
I've fixed 3 of this exact model in the last 4 months! I haven't even watched the video yet (paused at 4 seconds) it I'm going to take a guess at the issue:
Bottom two DrMos blow up with extreme violence, haha. That's my guess.
The reason will be one of the phase doublers or the voltage regulator itself.
Let's see and I'll update if any info I have is relevant. Back to the video.
EDIT: I was too impatient and fast forwarded. Yup, what I stated and a couple other issues.
You could just remove that entire bottom phase. It doesn't need all those phases to work and I can send you a basic diagram of what DrMos goes to what choke (as well as what doubler goes to what DrMos).
You'd still have to grind down those DrMos that fused to the board and make sure they aren't shorting and then remove their respective choke just to be safe. Still, those can operate at 100% with those bottom two DrMos/phase entirely removed. It was under-engineered with overkill...somehow.
All in all, those 980ti cards were horribly made. I suspect they would have quietly been forgotten but the current GPU market is so insane and a 980ti is still so good that broken ones are now coming to light like zombies, haha. All with the same basic problem.
I'll look into that mate, but I'd say I definitely at least need to replace the voltage reg first. I would much rather try and fix it fully though if I'm going to do anything with it
@@TheCod3r
For sure.
FYI, most times it's the phase doubler more than the voltage regulator but all can be bought for about £8 if you wanted to replace all 4.
However, if you just want to try the doubler for the bottom two DrMos, it's the one sitting highest of the 3. If you look at the board from GPU chip-side (with power pins upper right orientation), the add-on board holds the regulator and three doublers. The top doubler controls the bottom two DrMos, middle the middle mos and bottom doubler the top mos. Kind of opposite of what seems intuitive.
Also, some mos share a coil and others don't.
Good luck!
I say this to let you know how you can test the card as good without that phase because first to avoid risk of blowing up new chips.
Lol. So you're the other guy I'm competing against. I've got four of these, two that are the reference PCB (FE), one MSI and one Gigabyte. The FE's seem to all have the same memory power phase mosfet issue, sometimes blowing up the choke. I've actually not run into a bad power phase mosfet issue yet. 3/4 have bad memory power phases and one simply had a bad pex buck converter.
Also, there is more solid information on GPU repair in these comments than what you kind find on most forums. So thanks!
@@DannyWilliamH Is the doubler for the bottom two mosfets marked as U8 or have I got the orientation wrong? I've got a board with the same issues you described, bottom two mosfets blown and I'm trying to fix it. Is it possible to send the diagram?
Wow! Knowing Phil's Skills, this is going to be Awesome!! & very, very informative for sure! I'm looking forward to this one 🤓👍🏻
Haha don't get your hopes up 😂
We can only hope so Steve
True Jason! very true. In all honesty I think its recoverable, We know Phil has the skill set to do the operation. Its just having time from his busy work/family time to use new/second hand parts to do it. I'm very optimistic as you know, also I always put Phil high up on the pedestal, he & your self deserve to be up there IMHO. 😊👍🏻
Haha thanks mate. Definitely going to revisit this one that's for sure
That liquid on top of them chips is from the silicon thermal pads. it's normal and don't hurt or wont short.
I have one that's way worse, the same drmos burned all the way through the board. Cut that whole area off to remove the char. Might get it going again in limp mode if i can figure out what goes where, wish me luck.
30:10 Yeah, my Titan X has that too; I dremeled off the shorted phase, and it works. I was surprised too. It needs that phase replaced; if Vcore power draw isn't kept minimal, it shuts off the PSU. I suspect the card had the fan fail, and the eBay seller (or whoever they got it from) Just ripped the dead fan off and came up with some bullshit story for why it wasn't there, then sold it hoping people would think they broke it by running it without a fan, or by the time they bought a fan and tried to run it, they wouldn't be able to return it anymore. I was able to get a refund and keep the card; that's when I decided to hail marry attempt a fix. Now I'm waiting on a hot air gun to swap one of the power balancing FETs to where the dead one was.
Awesome! More gpu Videos please 👍
I'll certainly try ;)
@@TheCod3r I've four of the evga cards three 1070 and a 1080 all not working. I'm from Huddersfield and could be worth letting you have a look at them. I bought them from an auction all have the security stickers intact 👍
Can't wait for this
hi i have this problem when something happen and i can't solder part in it's original place i put ic in near location on board and using 0.1mm soldering wire and wiring ic to it's pad on board i glue back of ic using thermal silicon adhesive to secure it
Hey Cod3r, would you have a suggestion for a video of actually going through a repair like the one in this video? This was on track to be an incredibly valuable video; shame that it wasn't completed.
This is what he does, he talks about the damage for viewer retention and sacks the repair off.. its a obsolete bit of tech anyway…
Looks like the customer tried to do some mining with stock settings even though it won't make much
According to the customer it was a bad PSU causing it. I don't think mining would ever do this
Hey can you help me i have exact same issue, voltage regulator blown, replaced voltage regulator and removed 3 power stages got to know one more power stage was dead and voltage regulator blew again and now i have all 4 removed and waiting for voltsge regulator to come again but whats causing it to blow?
I used to have that exact GPU, I sold it to a friend when I got my 1080ti back in 2017. Still haven't upgraded from that, lol.
The 1080Ti is still a beast though, better than the R9 390X I have in my house PC lol
@@TheCod3r Yep it really is. It beats my roommate's 3070 in most things, it just can't do RTX. The 3070 (aside from RTX) would definitely be a sidegrade to me. I'd have to get a 3080 or 3080ti for it to truly be an upgrade.
@@StormsparkPegasus i guess your roommates 3070 is limited by his CPU or RAM then because there's no way your 1080ti would beat it otherwise.
Wish I would have took pictures of my old 970 from back in the day. I was in the middle of playing wow and it literally burst in flames. By the time I could get the side panel off. Card and motherboard was toast.
Ouch that sucks mate. I had it once myself too, a bad hard drive shorted out and caught fire but I don't tend to keep a side panel on my computer so I got really lucky
Yeah, it was better to release this Phil. Who knows what about the inner layers at the hole...
On those mosfets chips, I noticed some are marked Sic789 AX and some other 980Ti's have the suffix AF? Any idea what those 2 letters mean? On your card, the voltage controller for the vrm, is it 3v or 5v?
it will their bottom line. more healthy card entering second market
Also change the ic that command that driver/or mosfet
Use more air temperature if needed graphic card have the best pcb no problems.
That took 15m at 500⁰C to remove, I had my hot air set to +30 above spec so it was running at 500⁰C minimum :(
@@TheCod3r yea it takes alot because this pcb dissipate all. Preheating helps if available but take care are plastic
Ah man such a shame. I saw this and thought, ooh, I’ve got a fubar evga gtx 770 you could have for parts but alas it’s not to be. As you say these often weld themselves nicely and the components are hard enough to remove at the best of times due to the massive heat sink of the board. I’d have been tempted to try and use the bga machine for the lower heat panel to help with the solder putting bits back on but either way those chips were beyond that being welded 🙁 Speaking of bga machine, my r9 380 artifacted the other day. Worked when I pressed on the gpu hard though so I reflowed it with my hob, multimeter temp probe and hot air station. Never worked again 🤣 Should have sent it to you in the first place 🤦♂️
To be honest I wouldn't really take on artifacting repairs because most of the time it's down to the gpu failing, and reflowing and reballing doesn't fix that because the issue is internal on the gpu chip itself not the solder balls underneath
@@TheCod3r Is that really the case? Seen a bunch of northridge fix videos and a few of my own broken gpus I've sold that ended up being repaired had bad mosfets causing artifacts but I've not much experience myself. How often have you run across that being the issue instead?
@@MattBee2k2 artefacts can be faulty memory chips too.
If I had a 980ti I would probably put a fuse on each phase before the copper melted I would make sure it was fused. This would be a bodge but would only be on my personal board.
I repair GPUs and this is rare but happens. I made a video on how I take this welded MOSFETs out.
If you think it's welded, you break out the dremel.
you could downclock it a bit and try it without that chip.
Then you know if the GPU works.
I could give it a try just to find out I guess :)
Friendly reminder. DO NOT SHIP YOUR GPU WITHOUT PASTING GPU CORE. It is under intense pressure under that tension. Give it the goo or that last bump to the box will be its end.
You moving to gpu now good move man your good with soldering and hot air so hopefully you nail these beauty's too come to discord we have a awsome community for gpu advice welcome brother to the headaches unless your TC he don't suffer with those 😂
Yeah to be honest I'll work on anything as long as it can be a viable fix but I just haven't really advertised for them much. I will be in the future though :)
That GPU was not happy with it's life i see...sad, especially with the market the way it is now
Yep looks like it wanted to end its' life, I'll definitely give this one another try though
😊👍
Nice try man. Cant save everything and this one def. had a very bad short. I bet if you'd replace those things it still wouldnt work tbh. Hes better off buying a second hand 750ti. Cheap and still decent. Or 1050ti if he wants a bit more gaming power with a lower budget.
U13....