This gentleman is so eloquent with his words. I'm always so happy to watch the videos put out by GMBN, they are great are describing the HOW TO aspect of a wide array of techniques. Keep up the great work everyone! Thanks for the tutorials!!
THANK YOU for covering the caliper spacing guidelines. Nobody talks about that. I had to learn the hard way after upgrading my forks and the calipers didn't need the existing spacer so I had to get shorter bolts to attach it. I wish I watched this before starting the fork upgrade.
13:16 115 euros for a tool to make a diagonal cut.. when the tool does not align the hose perpendicular to the blade you have to do it manually. so a 5 euros cutter its sufficient
You can run hose through the frame using vacuum cleaner and string (+paper maybe). For hose cutting there are cheap plastic cutters, which are perfect for home usage.
Yup, good advice. You might also find that the brakes come with a couple of plastic pieces that can be used to clamp the hose in a vice, you can then tap the insert in with a small hammer.
When installing new discs,hand thread the bolts,rotate the disc clockwise then snug the bolts while holding the disc.reduces any sudden shearing force on the bolts if movement occurs during braking.
That was an awesome explanation on how to, I can now do it myself since it will be my first bike with XT hydraulic brakes system, I'm very much like I like showing people how to put things together the right way, I enjoy doing my own work on a lot things just because there are to many people now a days who take pride on the work they do, I hate when I have to pay someone to do something for me then I have to redo it myself because I didn't have time, I have always been a hands on person like my father God Bless his soul, I just retired as a union sheet metal worker in NYC now I have the time to do my own work on my bikes, as a young kid I worked in a bicycle shop in NYC back in the early eighties I'm 62 now I use to upgrade all my own bike with the some help from my boss who was an ex cross country racer back then, God he had so much experience he liked the way I worked for him because i always wanted to learn more from him at his shop his wife who also worked there always made sandwiches for me she was so kind and a very beautiful woman back then, I really miss those good memories. It's sad many people now a days aren't the same anymore. Thank you again for all the help you give by doing these videos so that many people can learn to do their own work. God Bless from the US. 🇺🇲👍🏻
thankfully I've never had to fully bleed brakes, usually just burp them a little bit and they're fine. In terms of cutting the brake hose I've always just used my Park Tool cable cutters, they give a really nice straight cut without crushing the hose end, then I use a very small pick to bore out the cable end a little bit, clamp the hose between those yellow plastic blocks with some vise grips and use a regular hammer to hammer in the barb. I did buy a barb inserter last week though after i realized I lost the yellow plastic blocks and had to hold the hose by hand which was pretty hard since it was covered in mineral oil as I hammered the barb in.
Thank you for this excellent and comprehensive tutorial. As a beginner in dealing with hydraulic brakes I now feel confident to going ahead with a complete update of my disc brakes on a older canyon bike.
Can you guys make a instructional of how to build a wheel properly. How to get right tension on spokes and different types of hubs to wheels etc. Keep up the great work doddy 👌🏼😁
Ali Calrkson's TH-cam channel for wheel builds - he gives super good instructions with plenty diagrams, footage, explanations and advice. check him out.
NOTE : the magnetic ‘tube feed/guide’ tool will not work on steel frames (only aluminium, composite or other non-magnetic material frames will allow the magnetic tool to be used ) Keep safe - both on 🚴🏼♀️ and off 😷 the road 🙏🏼
I just installed a set of SLX 7120 4 piston brakes on my Surly Disc Trucker it was pretty easy to do I had Avid BB7 cable brakes before but I feel I got a lot more braking with the SLX 4 piston Hydraulic brakes but its to cold here it's -16 out side can't wait until this spring.
You know it have been really helpful? Showing us how you put the actual disc on the wheel! That's what I got on your video for because the discs I have don't seem to be able to be used for the wheels that I have and I wanted to make sure that but I set your video for over 15 minutes and you've already got discs on the wheel That's the part I needed to see you do!
Great step by step, just bought a new set of deore’s for almost nothing., but don’t have a cutter of any sort., is a stanley knife or something okay to cut the hose aswell as long as it’s square?
Thanks for yet another good video. One question. If taking care one could manage to do the cutting without a special tool, but do I need a special tool the fit the insert anyway? "You can not fit the insert by hand, use the relevant tool". Anyone any idea on how to fit the insert without special tool?
Thanks for this helpful tutorial, many things I could take from it. Wish you all a nice merry Christmas and for 2022 all the best and most important health! 👍🕯🕯🕯🕯🎅☃️🚲
14:57 The fine tuning was sort of skipped over here... I usually check that the rotor is centered in the groove that the disk runs in, at both top and bottom of the rotor. If the rotor is too far one side or the other, you will often get a continuous squeal from your brakes or even a sqee squee squee etc if the rotor has a slight warp. If you look at the rotor (ignore the pads as they will centre themselves) the channel is usually square sided, as is the rotor so moving the caliper left/right one mounting bolt at a time, you should be able to get the disk sitting nicely in the centre. Putting the break on a couple of times should centre the pads. If you think there is any contaminant on the disk/pads, try a brake clean product. I am running a 2nd hand bike with pads that were soaked in oil when I got the bike. The brakes were so bad, 3 finger braking barely slowed the bike and the noise was penetrating... I cleaned the pads/rotor with brake clean (and soaked the pads in meths) and the result, 2 years later still 1 finger braking on black trail down hill with the same pads (as my shonky mediocre videos show.. including the squealing in the 1st 2 videos). Oh and a tip for Shimano Brake Fluid... Often buying the 1lt bottle is about twice the price of a 100ml bottle. Mineral oil has a near endless shelf life if stored well, so for twice the price of the small bottles you'll have enough oil to last several years (or you can bleed your mates bikes for a few $ and pay for the oil. (gone are the days of me running a set of Magura Gustav's on Olive Oil for 20 years.)... 🙉
I'm Haveing a hell of a time with my brakes, The whaling coming from them is loud as hell and embarrassing, Been riding for years and never had noisy brakes. I've done everything, sanded discs, Replaced pads, bedded them, I can't see no leaks at the caliper, I'm baffled. I have SLX 4 pots, I use Noah and Theo pads, Are these pads crap?
@@stuarts4673 I have no experience with different pads... but there is one thing you haven't done... Swap the front wheel with a friend and see if that fixes it. The disk could be warped or loose... If you have another wheel with the same size disk, try swapping that... Do try brake clean on both the pads and disk.. if there was contaminant on the disk and you put new pads on, it may have carried across...
PLEASE NOTE: Installing the front brake with lever on right side of bar is backward (unless it's a European thing?). I am in the USA and the Shimano XT brake caliper/lever combo kit (M8100 series) I bought is denoted as having a left side brake lever and comes with 1000mm of brake hose pre-attached and pre-bled to the caliper. The rear brake (w/right side lever) kit comes with 1700mm of hose pre-attached and pre-bled to the caliper. All bikes I have ridden in the USA come with left brake = front brake, right brake = rear brake. Shifters are on the right and dropper lever is on the left. I know GMBN is a European-centric channel, but something worth noting in case you're in the USA.
Yes, putting the front brake on the right side is a common practice in Europe. Now that I think about it, it does somewhat make sense, as the front brake is used more frequently than the rear. And, since most people are right-handed, having the front brake on the right side may allow for more precise control and modulation with the right hand.
As much as you are very helpful and I'm very confident 1 I don't have the tools 2 I don't want to risk it n 3 if I do it rong then I've just wasted £120 on a new back brake kit think I'll leave it to the pros for now but thankyou 👍🏻
Please do a video About de SLX 7120 Bleed and the often ocurring (much talked about diffrent online forums) wandering bitpoint even when bled like the shimano manual. This happens espacialy in cold conditions.
Doddy, What's your views on running internal on a frame designed for external (i.e an old Giant Faith 0 - alloy). Will it compromise strength (Not that I use the frame anywhere near its limits) I've considered running my derailleur internally with a inlet/outlet guide and bare internally to reduce friction. There are already exit holes at the bottom of the downtube but nothing at the top. (I may have to make stainless myself to match frame angles etc. The faith ran the derailleur and rear brake down the front of the downtube which is a little exposed to my mediocre riding "style" as I do tend to case a few hurdles...
#Doddy, thats the textbook work. wich is great :) However my experience with breaks is it different, depending on the breaks, I take that spacer off, and anywhere from extremely gently to very gently I press the lever to decrease the space between pads and rotor itself, this lets me to better fine tune my breaks to my liking. Doing this it is mandatory to be super careful and gently test the breaks afterwards, since if there is no space between pads and rotor or the rotor drags on the pads while turning - thespace is too little, So that's something to look out for. However it also lets me fine tune the breaks and the modulation of breaks. and honestly I will never ever use any breaks with DOT fluid- they are super hard maintenance and the breaking power in my opinion is simply less then their equivalent for mineral fluid.
Hello, the insert that's already in the hose, if we don't trim the hose then could we use the insert that's already in the hose? or will we have to replace it?
Thanks a lot for this video, I've never mounted any brakes, but going to do so with my new brakes over Chrismas. How much torque is required to secure the disk rotor bolts and the bolts for the caliper? 6nm?
Hi @SomeoneLikeYouRandom, It differs between manufacturers so it's always a good idea to check with your specific brand of brake. However, 6 to 8nm is normally a good amount for a calliper bolt. Rotor bolts are slightly less due to the smaller bolt so 4 - 5nm would be sensible. Just check for any wobble on the rotor or calliper to ensure you get safe and effective braking. Thank you for the support👍
I've tried 3 times to tune/bleed my SRAM Guide RE brakes - they can be fidgety to bleed to ay the least. These ones don't use the newer Bleeding Edge ports unfortuntely either. I am struggling to get them working better and find I am now more or less drawing the lever almost to the bars before they bite properly. What am doing wrong? (PS. I've checked my pads for remaining pad surface and is still well within recomended thickness).
Hi, the insert came installed on the hose is blocked in other words the tiny hole is blocked, how to install it with out cutting the hose? Really appreciate any help.
Why do you put an olive if the lever already has one inside, or why take it off and reinstall? I have just checked Shimano manual and they said that the olive comes pre-installed and when inserting the hose, ensure it doesn't snag on the olive.
- the next step in getting v sensitive brakes (if that's your preference) is to carefully adjust the gap between the brake pads. - occasionally leaving the brakes (lightly) applied over night helps w/ floating air bubbles past the master cylinder.. nice 'how to' video, as always. pls talk more about the price of the fluids as it's beyond parody... :} ---------------------------------------------------------------- * the pads are what require extra care when working w/ oily substances because of the porous/absorbent material is. rotors are easy to 'decontaminate' and it should be done before the pads ever touch them regardless if gloves were used or not. ** that's clearly not a straight cut @13:17 and everything works just fine.. i'm not saying to cut the line with a spoon, but i am saying that the insert & olive is what seals the system :}
I had a new set of XT M8000 brakes installed (all black oil well and lever), replacing my old XT M785 brakes (chrome oil well). The old hose was used for the rear brake because we could not remove it at the time. However, the old hose is thicker than the new hose which came with the new brakes. When I braked hard, the rear brake hose popped out. Is this an issue with the diameter of hose, even though it seems to fit, or just installation error? I suppose what I really need to know, is the diameter (thickness) of hose an issue? Thanks
Mineral oil is a bit like standard old engine oil. Its a little messy.. but doesn't do any damage (except to your expensive carpet) and can be cleaned off with brake cleaner. The older type brakes that use DOT brake fluid is way worse as not only is the fluid like paint stripper (Literally it will strip paint off a LOT of objects including the caliper/levers eventually) it is also hygroscopic, meaning ANY moisture is attracted to it, and can cause rapid deterioration of the brakes.. (I've had my old Hayes boil and become completely ineffective on a decent length descent and found I had to do a change at least twice as often when I was riding nowhere as hard as I do now.
This gentleman is so eloquent with his words. I'm always so happy to watch the videos put out by GMBN, they are great are describing the HOW TO aspect of a wide array of techniques. Keep up the great work everyone! Thanks for the tutorials!!
I`ve become my own mechanic watching these videos. GMBN Thanx!
THANK YOU for covering the caliper spacing guidelines. Nobody talks about that. I had to learn the hard way after upgrading my forks and the calipers didn't need the existing spacer so I had to get shorter bolts to attach it. I wish I watched this before starting the fork upgrade.
Holy 75 degree cut on the hose Batman!
13:16 115 euros for a tool to make a diagonal cut.. when the tool does not align the hose perpendicular to the blade you have to do it manually. so a 5 euros cutter its sufficient
You can run hose through the frame using vacuum cleaner and string (+paper maybe). For hose cutting there are cheap plastic cutters, which are perfect for home usage.
Yup, good advice. You might also find that the brakes come with a couple of plastic pieces that can be used to clamp the hose in a vice, you can then tap the insert in with a small hammer.
@@sandy_knight yes, exactly :D There is a difference between pro workshop with all the special tools needed and home :)
When installing new discs,hand thread the bolts,rotate the disc clockwise then snug the bolts while holding the disc.reduces any sudden shearing force on the bolts if movement occurs during braking.
Good advice 😁 👍🏾
what if you tighten the bolts to torque spec?
Good info. I did exactly how you described and my new SLX front brake works flawless!
Great to hear & glad it helped!
That was an awesome explanation on how to, I can now do it myself since it will be my first bike with XT hydraulic brakes system, I'm very much like I like showing people how to put things together the right way, I enjoy doing my own work on a lot things just because there are to many people now a days who take pride on the work they do, I hate when I have to pay someone to do something for me then I have to redo it myself because I didn't have time, I have always been a hands on person like my father God Bless his soul, I just retired as a union sheet metal worker in NYC now I have the time to do my own work on my bikes, as a young kid I worked in a bicycle shop in NYC back in the early eighties I'm 62 now I use to upgrade all my own bike with the some help from my boss who was an ex cross country racer back then, God he had so much experience he liked the way I worked for him because i always wanted to learn more from him at his shop his wife who also worked there always made sandwiches for me she was so kind and a very beautiful woman back then, I really miss those good memories. It's sad many people now a days aren't the same anymore. Thank you again for all the help you give by doing these videos so that many people can learn to do their own work. God Bless from the US. 🇺🇲👍🏻
thankfully I've never had to fully bleed brakes, usually just burp them a little bit and they're fine. In terms of cutting the brake hose I've always just used my Park Tool cable cutters, they give a really nice straight cut without crushing the hose end, then I use a very small pick to bore out the cable end a little bit, clamp the hose between those yellow plastic blocks with some vise grips and use a regular hammer to hammer in the barb. I did buy a barb inserter last week though after i realized I lost the yellow plastic blocks and had to hold the hose by hand which was pretty hard since it was covered in mineral oil as I hammered the barb in.
Excellent. Clear and concise.
To prevent hose from twisting, I've seen the use of the yellow blocks and pliers used while tightening down hose fitting.
Once I saw a video with Doddy, where he said a couple good words about magura brakes. Well, now I have magura mt5 on my bike. These brakes are strong.
They are really good quality brakes I agree best I've ever had 👍🏻
Thank you for this excellent and comprehensive tutorial. As a beginner in dealing with hydraulic brakes I now feel confident to going ahead with a complete update of my disc brakes on a older canyon bike.
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching and subscribe for more great tips :)
Can you guys make a instructional of how to build a wheel properly. How to get right tension on spokes and different types of hubs to wheels etc.
Keep up the great work doddy 👌🏼😁
Ali Calrkson's TH-cam channel for wheel builds - he gives super good instructions with plenty diagrams, footage, explanations and advice. check him out.
Exzellente Erklärung aller wichtigen Punkte und Arbeiten . Besser geht es nicht. Danke schön!👍
Great tutorial, please do one on re-habilitating an old brake…new hose, etc.
Love you bro from India
This could not have come at a better time, got a pair of SLX callipers and hose kit arriving in the next day. Cheers!
Good luck!!
@@gmbntech took most of the day but front and back was a complete success, love your work Doddy.
Good timing. Finally found some deore levers in stock so I can ditch the 4100's that came with my 420 calipers.
NOTE : the magnetic ‘tube feed/guide’ tool will not work on steel frames (only aluminium, composite or other non-magnetic material frames will allow the magnetic tool to be used )
Keep safe - both on 🚴🏼♀️ and off 😷 the road 🙏🏼
@10:50…”make sure it’s routed the correct way”, as he puts the front brake to the RIGHT side!! Haha
Front brake IS right side.
You run front brake left lever?
@@mattjns : the normal way, right=rear
In the UK it's normal for front on right, along with driving on the left; go figure.@@GHinWI
@@GHinWI which country are you in?
That’s the correct way in the uk. I moved abroad and could never get my head around it. Swapped them around.
I like ti's you didn't prattle on like most do before getting to the point, very happy.
Have just changed to a new set of headphones and had never realised how incredibly breathy Doddy is. Great video... bit breathy
man that’s just how he talks
I learned something new today.
Thanks Sir Doddy! 😃
Hi Nomar, Thank you for the support! 👍
I just installed a set of SLX 7120 4 piston brakes on my Surly Disc Trucker it was pretty easy to do I had Avid BB7 cable brakes before but I feel I got a lot more braking with the SLX 4 piston Hydraulic brakes but its to cold here it's -16 out side can't wait until this spring.
You know it have been really helpful? Showing us how you put the actual disc on the wheel! That's what I got on your video for because the discs I have don't seem to be able to be used for the wheels that I have and I wanted to make sure that but I set your video for over 15 minutes and you've already got discs on the wheel That's the part I needed to see you do!
Best selling point for any product. "Get this, or you might be swearing a bit..." 😀
Great information
Please add chapters. Thank you for making this video.
Great step by step, just bought a new set of deore’s for almost nothing., but don’t have a cutter of any sort., is a stanley knife or something okay to cut the hose aswell as long as it’s square?
Thanks for yet another good video. One question. If taking care one could manage to do the cutting without a special tool, but do I need a special tool the fit the insert anyway? "You can not fit the insert by hand, use the relevant tool". Anyone any idea on how to fit the insert without special tool?
Thanks for this helpful tutorial, many things I could take from it. Wish you all a nice merry Christmas and for 2022 all the best and most important health! 👍🕯🕯🕯🕯🎅☃️🚲
Hi Maik, Glad you found the video useful! Stay safe and have a Merry Christmas!
14:57 The fine tuning was sort of skipped over here...
I usually check that the rotor is centered in the groove that the disk runs in, at both top and bottom of the rotor.
If the rotor is too far one side or the other, you will often get a continuous squeal from your brakes or even a sqee squee squee etc if the rotor has a slight warp.
If you look at the rotor (ignore the pads as they will centre themselves) the channel is usually square sided, as is the rotor so moving the caliper left/right one mounting bolt at a time, you should be able to get the disk sitting nicely in the centre. Putting the break on a couple of times should centre the pads.
If you think there is any contaminant on the disk/pads, try a brake clean product.
I am running a 2nd hand bike with pads that were soaked in oil when I got the bike. The brakes were so bad, 3 finger braking barely slowed the bike and the noise was penetrating...
I cleaned the pads/rotor with brake clean (and soaked the pads in meths) and the result, 2 years later still 1 finger braking on black trail down hill with the same pads (as my shonky mediocre videos show.. including the squealing in the 1st 2 videos).
Oh and a tip for Shimano Brake Fluid... Often buying the 1lt bottle is about twice the price of a 100ml bottle. Mineral oil has a near endless shelf life if stored well, so for twice the price of the small bottles you'll have enough oil to last several years (or you can bleed your mates bikes for a few $ and pay for the oil.
(gone are the days of me running a set of Magura Gustav's on Olive Oil for 20 years.)...
🙉
I'm Haveing a hell of a time with my brakes, The whaling coming from them is loud as hell and embarrassing, Been riding for years and never had noisy brakes. I've done everything, sanded discs, Replaced pads, bedded them, I can't see no leaks at the caliper, I'm baffled. I have SLX 4 pots, I use Noah and Theo pads, Are these pads crap?
@@stuarts4673 I have no experience with different pads... but there is one thing you haven't done... Swap the front wheel with a friend and see if that fixes it. The disk could be warped or loose... If you have another wheel with the same size disk, try swapping that...
Do try brake clean on both the pads and disk.. if there was contaminant on the disk and you put new pads on, it may have carried across...
Great video and helpful
Thanks for video..Thumbs UP
PLEASE NOTE: Installing the front brake with lever on right side of bar is backward (unless it's a European thing?). I am in the USA and the Shimano XT brake caliper/lever combo kit (M8100 series) I bought is denoted as having a left side brake lever and comes with 1000mm of brake hose pre-attached and pre-bled to the caliper. The rear brake (w/right side lever) kit comes with 1700mm of hose pre-attached and pre-bled to the caliper. All bikes I have ridden in the USA come with left brake = front brake, right brake = rear brake. Shifters are on the right and dropper lever is on the left. I know GMBN is a European-centric channel, but something worth noting in case you're in the USA.
Yes, putting the front brake on the right side is a common practice in Europe. Now that I think about it, it does somewhat make sense, as the front brake is used more frequently than the rear. And, since most people are right-handed, having the front brake on the right side may allow for more precise control and modulation with the right hand.
As much as you are very helpful and I'm very confident 1 I don't have the tools 2 I don't want to risk it n 3 if I do it rong then I've just wasted £120 on a new back brake kit think I'll leave it to the pros for now but thankyou 👍🏻
Please do a video About de SLX 7120 Bleed and the often ocurring (much talked about diffrent online forums) wandering bitpoint even when bled like the shimano manual. This happens espacialy in cold conditions.
yes please! do you have the 2 pot or the 4 pot?
@@kp_adamo BR-M7120 : means 4 Pistons
Doddy, What's your views on running internal on a frame designed for external (i.e an old Giant Faith 0 - alloy).
Will it compromise strength (Not that I use the frame anywhere near its limits)
I've considered running my derailleur internally with a inlet/outlet guide and bare internally to reduce friction. There are already exit holes at the bottom of the downtube but nothing at the top. (I may have to make stainless myself to match frame angles etc.
The faith ran the derailleur and rear brake down the front of the downtube which is a little exposed to my mediocre riding "style" as I do tend to case a few hurdles...
just FYI ;P : brakefluid should not be oil if you use plastic tubes, it's same for cars.
How come the cut you made looks like it's been cut at an angle? I thought it was supposed to be a perfect 90 degree cut.
#Doddy, thats the textbook work. wich is great :)
However my experience with breaks is it different, depending on the breaks, I take that spacer off, and anywhere from extremely gently to very gently I press the lever to decrease the space between pads and rotor itself, this lets me to better fine tune my breaks to my liking.
Doing this it is mandatory to be super careful and gently test the breaks afterwards, since if there is no space between pads and rotor or the rotor drags on the pads while turning - thespace is too little, So that's something to look out for.
However it also lets me fine tune the breaks and the modulation of breaks. and honestly I will never ever use any breaks with DOT fluid- they are super hard maintenance and the breaking power in my opinion is simply less then their equivalent for mineral fluid.
hi, i have recently installed the exact same brakes on my bike, i haven’t bled them yet but after how do i make them really sharp
Hello, the insert that's already in the hose, if we don't trim the hose then could we use the insert that's already in the hose? or will we have to replace it?
I did twist brake hose maybe by half turn, should i loosen the bolt and retight the same olive? On the rear brake
I had a hard time changing my sram to maguras, did not know about clamps needed to be replaced as well and i had a hard time finding them
I also have a slx brake set but how did you do it that the shift and brake are screwed together? What do i need to buy?
....one wrap of ORIGINAL DUCT TAPE around the ends of existing/replacement cables held together is enuff to pull new cable through frame.
Thanks a lot for this video, I've never mounted any brakes, but going to do so with my new brakes over Chrismas.
How much torque is required to secure the disk rotor bolts and the bolts for the caliper? 6nm?
Hi @SomeoneLikeYouRandom, It differs between manufacturers so it's always a good idea to check with your specific brand of brake. However, 6 to 8nm is normally a good amount for a calliper bolt. Rotor bolts are slightly less due to the smaller bolt so 4 - 5nm would be sensible. Just check for any wobble on the rotor or calliper to ensure you get safe and effective braking. Thank you for the support👍
Great video, too bad NO ONE can get 'new' brakes these daze... 🤣
I've tried 3 times to tune/bleed my SRAM Guide RE brakes - they can be fidgety to bleed to ay the least. These ones don't use the newer Bleeding Edge ports unfortuntely either. I am struggling to get them working better and find I am now more or less drawing the lever almost to the bars before they bite properly. What am doing wrong? (PS. I've checked my pads for remaining pad surface and is still well within recomended thickness).
Lifesaver
Hi, the insert came installed on the hose is blocked in other words the tiny hole is blocked, how to install it with out cutting the hose? Really appreciate any help.
Why do you put an olive if the lever already has one inside, or why take it off and reinstall? I have just checked Shimano manual and they said that the olive comes pre-installed and when inserting the hose, ensure it doesn't snag on the olive.
- the next step in getting v sensitive brakes (if that's your preference) is to carefully adjust the gap between the brake pads.
- occasionally leaving the brakes (lightly) applied over night helps w/ floating air bubbles past the master cylinder..
nice 'how to' video, as always.
pls talk more about the price of the fluids as it's beyond parody... :}
----------------------------------------------------------------
* the pads are what require extra care when working w/ oily substances because of the porous/absorbent material is. rotors are easy to 'decontaminate' and it should be done before the pads ever touch them regardless if gloves were used or not.
** that's clearly not a straight cut @13:17 and everything works just fine.. i'm not saying to cut the line with a spoon, but i am saying that the insert & olive is what seals the system :}
Danks
How does the hose stay in the lever, wouldn’t it just fall out?
Front brake to right side handlebar? Is that a British thing or a Doddy thing?
Aluminium bleed port and steel bolt = new brake leaver when over tightened. A costly mistake i made recently.
Anyone know what the bolt is what stops the brake leaver flopping
Is front brakes on the right side just a preference?
No it’s what God demands in the Old Testament
Uk settings
What grips are those? Look like some I used on a demo bike I want to switch
Hi James, They are the ergon GD1 Evo Factory lock-on grips. Thanks for the comment!
Most of the times the writings on the brake rotor are on the outside... If you have trouble understanding how the wheel is going to rotate
Why is my brake hose that goes in to the lever stick I just put it in and screw the 8 mm key and it just keep falling out
Hi there, why is the OLIVE to be changed every time, and cant't be reused? Does it get squeezed after first installation? Thanks a lot. Francesco_
That's the design principal of olives - they get squished as the nut tightens to make a good seal.
I had a new set of XT M8000 brakes installed (all black oil well and lever), replacing my old XT M785 brakes (chrome oil well). The old hose was used for the rear brake because we could not remove it at the time. However, the old hose is thicker than the new hose which came with the new brakes. When I braked hard, the rear brake hose popped out. Is this an issue with the diameter of hose, even though it seems to fit, or just installation error?
I suppose what I really need to know, is the diameter (thickness) of hose an issue?
Thanks
If GMBN Tech would just do the "thing" as they were talking their "how to" videos would be 1000x better.
13:15 That cut was not even close to 90° 🧐
Yeah, what's the point in buying an expensive tool which doesn't do it any better than some other much cheaper ones?
:D just installed Magura MT7´s 3 weeks ago xDD
Other wise you mite be swareing a bit 😂😂
wanted the rear did see yours thanks it wasn't it
Did he skip the adding brake fluid part?!?!?!
That can be very messy
Because of the oil
Mineral oil is a bit like standard old engine oil. Its a little messy.. but doesn't do any damage (except to your expensive carpet) and can be cleaned off with brake cleaner.
The older type brakes that use DOT brake fluid is way worse as not only is the fluid like paint stripper (Literally it will strip paint off a LOT of objects including the caliper/levers eventually) it is also hygroscopic, meaning ANY moisture is attracted to it, and can cause rapid deterioration of the brakes.. (I've had my old Hayes boil and become completely ineffective on a decent length descent and found I had to do a change at least twice as often when I was riding nowhere as hard as I do now.
why on the earth using right lever for front brake?? you british people...
Terrible vid doesnt even show how to connect your adapter to your disc brake
Bleed cups and plungers and mineral oil no thanks.. Hope brake user , dead simple to bleed and dot fluid available anywhere
Danks