That design is better for ebike sensor so yea I need this I am converting my xc bike to a more xc road bike slash front suspension with a suspension seat post and comfortable wider gel saddle
This video is what should’ve been on a QR code in the box. Absolutely no instructions on how to attach the hose to the lever, so this really helped. Thanks. 👍
WOW, Thanks guys as I have never shortened a hose either; like a lot of us here on this post. Thanks for the detail and straight forward directions. And thanks for speaking in a tone that is understandable!! So many folks on TH-cam ramble and mumble like they are high. Also will be nice to use the Park hose cutters that came with my kit purchase many years ago...lol
What a great teaching video! Is the piston spreading no-bleed trick the same for 4 piston calipers? I noticed you said to use a block in the case of 4 piston.
@ 8:50 are you explaining a separate method for the newer j-fit brakes? Or is it in addition to what you were just explaining? Is an insert and olive still needed for the newer “j-fit” brakes?
Thanks a lot. Still ich am wondering why no olive is seen at the open end of the hose before tightening it into the lever. Is the olive already contained within the opening of the lever interfacing the hose ?
What's the little plastic thing next to the orange brake spacer at 0:40? It's got a texture pattern inside the one I have with my Deore 4 piston caliper that matches the texture on the caliper mount bolts so I'm guessing it's to discourage them from coming loose although I've never had that problem and they have thread locker on them. Maaybe it's something else but that's the only time I see it in the video.
Nice tutorial man! i just purchased a new pair of brakes and want to shorten the hoses. Does the piston squish without the pads replace all the bleeding process? because i have no idea how to purge and in my country its very expensive, i mean they will charge me lot of money if the brake has to be bleeded again, cheers!
It can be a time saver.. but if you have the funnel that is super fast and easy to setup too. I'd start with doing it the right way if you're not sure. It's safer to just bleed the air out of the lever because if you mess up and pump out the pistons too much you can pop the pistons out, which would be very, very bad. Usually, I just push them out very little.
@@BermStyle great, if im not wrong shortening the front brake hose is much easier than the rear one, isnt it? mainly because if u have to thread the hose to the frame (like normally happens) its more posible for the air to kick in right?
@@MrRockr95 technically you're just doing the same thing. Shimano brakes are the easiest brakes to bleed out there. Most of the time you can get away with just the Shimano bleed funnel (only $5.00)and fluid. If you don't have the bleed funnel they're easy to source online shorturl.at/fmvL5
That's a disc brake pad spacer. They're useful if you're traveling or storing the bike with the wheel out, to keep the pistons from extending accidentally if the lever is pulled.
We've big fans of the 4 piston Saints and XT models. Even the new 4-pistons SLX models are quite impressive. We may be a bit biased but the unrepairable set of 4 piston Codes with frozen pistons (have at least two sets of almost new looking Avid/SRAM brakes with frozen pistons sitting in a bin in the garage) have us sticking with Shimano.
The hose simply slides in. Tightening the connecting bolt crushes the olive which applies compression on the hose and the connector insert, which is what keeps it retained. You can view a parts diagram in this Shimano Dealer's Manual: si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-BR0004-05-ENG.pdf
would you say this would be easy for a total newbie to do, cuz i just replaced my tyre and tube cuz i had a flat and now ive come across where i cant even place the wheel since the pistons wont make enough space for the brake pads to be bale to turn the disc brakes freely so im thinking of just replacing the entire thing completly
Most come pre-bled these days. The hoses are quite long though, and we generally cut them down. I often leave a few lines on the long side as I have a downhill bike and like the option of being able to borrow a brake off another bike in a pinch on major trips. We typically bleed the air out of the lines at least once a year. Once I get all the tools out, I usually bleed a few brakes and bikes all at the same time; between the two of us, we have somewhat of a collection - dirt jump bikes, trail bikes, hardtails, etc.
You could, provided it's very sharp, but it's less than ideal. In a pinch I've used a utility blade. If it's not a good cut it could potentially result in a leak down the road though.
Wondering if you could help me, I got a new shimano brake for the front and did a bleed of the front and rear, the rear works but with the new front the pistons are not moving at all... Any ideas on why this might be and how to solve the problem? Would really appreciate the help am noob
Trying to diagnose an issue without the part there is almost impossible. When I was working in a shop the reply would almost always be "bring it in." That's what your local shop will say as well. That said, if you don't have pressure at the lever, you don't have enough fluid or too much air in the line. If you have pressure at the lever and the pistons aren't moving, you may have a pinched hose. Repairing something like this generally comes down to a process of elimination.
Put the lever in a clamp with the hose connection facing up so oil doesn't come out. Letting the oil spill out like this in this video is not how it's meant to be done.
I really want to like this video, but it’s really hard to understand many of the words you’re saying due to your ultra sloppy diction. Also your overlays on the video make it really hard to see what’s actually going on. Overall seems like really good content, but poorly delivered.
That was great, exactly what i needed for my new Deore brakes that arrived today and i had no idea how to shorten the hose. Now i do. Thank you.
Same lol
That design is better for ebike sensor so yea I need this I am converting my xc bike to a more xc road bike slash front suspension with a suspension seat post and comfortable wider gel saddle
Thank you for this tutorial. I’m a complete newbie and was able to install a new rear disc brake without any issues thanks to your information.
This video is what should’ve been on a QR code in the box. Absolutely no instructions on how to attach the hose to the lever, so this really helped. Thanks. 👍
WOW,
Thanks guys as I have never shortened a hose either; like a lot of us here on this post. Thanks for the detail and straight forward directions. And thanks for speaking in a tone that is understandable!! So many folks on TH-cam ramble and mumble like they are high. Also will be nice to use the Park hose cutters that came with my kit purchase many years ago...lol
Excellent guide, showing us what readily available tools to use and the trick for every situation.
Thanks, super useful tutorial. Love the comment about watching the bubbles coming out :)
Great video just what I needed for my 2020 brakes that were not connected to the lever... now I'm ready to install thx man
Super helpful! Also thanks for not adding fluff to the video
Thank you for putting this together. Good quality information. It helped.
Great informative video I like the trick with pushing the pistons out before sizing the hose. Cheers
A word of precaution: be careful not to push them out too far. It doesn't take much. I've done it once and that piston always leaked after that.
Nice video, helpful and clear. Cheers from London, UK.
cheers
This tut is ace, great video man, keep going 😁
This is perfect. So many great tips. Worked first time.
Best tutorial how to do this
Right On! Excellent review. Thanks.
Such a good tutorial! Thanks!
Maan! That is helpful! Keep it up! Thanks!
glad to hear it!
Thanks! Really. You get right to the point; you're an anomaly for most don't
What a great teaching video! Is the piston spreading no-bleed trick the same for 4 piston calipers? I noticed you said to use a block in the case of 4 piston.
Great vid, thank you.
I really like your video and I learned a lot
awesome, glad to hear it, thanks for sharing.
Perfect. Thanks.
@ 8:50 are you explaining a separate method for the newer j-fit brakes? Or is it in addition to what you were just explaining? Is an insert and olive still needed for the newer “j-fit” brakes?
Thanks a lot. Still ich am wondering why no olive is seen at the open end of the hose before tightening it into the lever. Is the olive already contained within the opening of the lever interfacing the hose ?
Helpful. Thank you.
great video
Can you swap so that the right lever is the front brake and the left the rear brake
Thanks for video. What for this black ring? Left in 0:39? How right using this?
the little plastic bit snaps over the bolt and helps keep it from unthreading should the loc-tite wear out or come loose.
@@BermStyle need video instruction from you. No one video on TH-cam not teach us use this
well done
What's the little plastic thing next to the orange brake spacer at 0:40? It's got a texture pattern inside the one I have with my Deore 4 piston caliper that matches the texture on the caliper mount bolts so I'm guessing it's to discourage them from coming loose although I've never had that problem and they have thread locker on them. Maaybe it's something else but that's the only time I see it in the video.
It snaps over the bolt in the event the threadlocker wears out. A bit of extra insurance.
Nice tutorial man! i just purchased a new pair of brakes and want to shorten the hoses. Does the piston squish without the pads replace all the bleeding process? because i have no idea how to purge and in my country its very expensive, i mean they will charge me lot of money if the brake has to be bleeded again, cheers!
It can be a time saver.. but if you have the funnel that is super fast and easy to setup too. I'd start with doing it the right way if you're not sure. It's safer to just bleed the air out of the lever because if you mess up and pump out the pistons too much you can pop the pistons out, which would be very, very bad. Usually, I just push them out very little.
@@BermStyle great, if im not wrong shortening the front brake hose is much easier than the rear one, isnt it? mainly because if u have to thread the hose to the frame (like normally happens) its more posible for the air to kick in right?
@@MrRockr95 technically you're just doing the same thing. Shimano brakes are the easiest brakes to bleed out there. Most of the time you can get away with just the Shimano bleed funnel (only $5.00)and fluid. If you don't have the bleed funnel they're easy to source online shorturl.at/fmvL5
Is there an alternative for pressing out the pistons if the lever is not yet connected?
Hold on. With brand new, the olive is preinstalled on both f and r?
At 1:15 in the video there is an orange plastic tool between the pliers and pick. What is that used for?
That's a disc brake pad spacer. They're useful if you're traveling or storing the bike with the wheel out, to keep the pistons from extending accidentally if the lever is pulled.
What are the best 4 piston brakes for downhill/enduro (max. 300)
Are shimano saint god
We've big fans of the 4 piston Saints and XT models. Even the new 4-pistons SLX models are quite impressive. We may be a bit biased but the unrepairable set of 4 piston Codes with frozen pistons (have at least two sets of almost new looking Avid/SRAM brakes with frozen pistons sitting in a bin in the garage) have us sticking with Shimano.
@@BermStyle thx
New breakset must add some mineral oil?
how do you put the hose in tho because it’s confusing
The hose simply slides in. Tightening the connecting bolt crushes the olive which applies compression on the hose and the connector insert, which is what keeps it retained.
You can view a parts diagram in this Shimano Dealer's Manual: si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-BR0004-05-ENG.pdf
would you say this would be easy for a total newbie to do, cuz i just replaced my tyre and tube cuz i had a flat and now ive come across where i cant even place the wheel since the pistons wont make enough space for the brake pads to be bale to turn the disc brakes freely so im thinking of just replacing the entire thing completly
What you torque the caliper down too?
Wait, the brakes comes pre bled or you have to bleed them anyways (in case you didn't shorten the hose)
Most come pre-bled these days. The hoses are quite long though, and we generally cut them down. I often leave a few lines on the long side as I have a downhill bike and like the option of being able to borrow a brake off another bike in a pinch on major trips.
We typically bleed the air out of the lines at least once a year. Once I get all the tools out, I usually bleed a few brakes and bikes all at the same time; between the two of us, we have somewhat of a collection - dirt jump bikes, trail bikes, hardtails, etc.
Can i cut the hose using knife?
You could, provided it's very sharp, but it's less than ideal. In a pinch I've used a utility blade. If it's not a good cut it could potentially result in a leak down the road though.
Does the whole bleeding system work on the m8100 same as the old m8000?
Yep!
How much rise is the blue spank spike handlebar?
that one is a 50mm.
@@BermStyle Nice...thank u sir
Wondering if you could help me, I got a new shimano brake for the front and did a bleed of the front and rear, the rear works but with the new front the pistons are not moving at all... Any ideas on why this might be and how to solve the problem? Would really appreciate the help am noob
Trying to diagnose an issue without the part there is almost impossible. When I was working in a shop the reply would almost always be "bring it in." That's what your local shop will say as well.
That said, if you don't have pressure at the lever, you don't have enough fluid or too much air in the line. If you have pressure at the lever and the pistons aren't moving, you may have a pinched hose. Repairing something like this generally comes down to a process of elimination.
Cool, I'm going to replace my tektro brakes with deore ones.
I had to bail. Is his jaw wired shut? Audio drops out here and there as well.
Put the lever in a clamp with the hose connection facing up so oil doesn't come out. Letting the oil spill out like this in this video is not how it's meant to be done.
I really want to like this video, but it’s really hard to understand many of the words you’re saying due to your ultra sloppy diction. Also your overlays on the video make it really hard to see what’s actually going on.
Overall seems like really good content, but poorly delivered.
well dont thanks