Thank you so much for this video!! Local HVAC company was going to charge me $565 for this and I was able to get the part from a local part store for $100 and do it myself. You definitely saved me!
Your video was so well done, I didn't even have to finish watching it to learn what I needed. You sir are a God send, thank you for your very well made video.
Make sure there isn't something obstructing the vent before assuming the blower is bad. It will show the same code and symptoms if the vent is partially plugged. Sudden, heavy snowfall can do it.
I'm having this issue and trying to narrow down the things that can cause the 3 blinks. I'm getting a whirring noise before the codes like a fan that's having trouble spinning. I'm figuring that means it's gotta be the blower rather than an obstruction. Right?
Nicely explained. 👍 Tip: For positioning gaskets like this, just put a little piece of 3/4" Scotch Magic tape at screw hole locations on the gasket, holding it to the furnace. Bam! It goes right together.
Thank you for this video. My furnace was installed in '05 and the original combustion blower motor is seized up, on Sunday, just before Christmas, with an elderly lady of 80, health issues, newly broken arm, and in a wheel chair. I am glad I found this video It is 5 days to get a new one and I may as well order the igniter as well. The upper vent tube near ceiling appears to be cemented in place for better sealing. You confirmed that the igniter assembly has to be removed to drop the blower motor assembly. I may buy the door gasket as well to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning. I have a carbon monoxide detector near the lower part of the furnace.
The igniter does not need to be removed. I bought a new one because I read somewhere that they are fragile. However, mine did not break, so I have a spare just in case. After removing the screws, just lower the assembly enough to get the upper tube free. Again, the igniter was NOT removed to replace the vent booster.
@@TremoloHarmonica Thanks for saving me $25 from Amazon. I am in the process of removing the booster and will Kroil the bearings. The booster motor should NEVER have been installed in a hot exhaust duct.
OK, Peoples, my furnace combustion blower motor is TEMPORARILY back in service this Sunday afternoon. Mine uses 5/16" hex screws which makes it easier than Phillips like some of the furnaces have. I have an offset ratchet wrench which makes accessing some of the motor mount screws easier. This temporary fix involves using Knock-r-Loose and turbine oil. First disconnect the motor leads and silicone tubing and trim 3/8" from the one that attaches to the plastic cover over the motor as the heat will soften it so that it loosens over time. Next remove the plastic cover and be careful with the felt gasket (which I glued back in place). I used a 5/16" socket with some rough painter's tape on it so I could grip it with thumb and forefinger for the hard-to-get-to screws. Loosen the screw for the motor assembly that is to the right and behind the duct and ONLY loosen it a turn max otherwise replacing it will be a challenge to get the holes to line up.. Remove the other two screws. Carefully push/tilt the motor winding portion downward about a half inch or so. This allows you to be a contortionist with a flash light and spray can straw of Knocker Loose or other penetrating oil of your choice. Just a drop or two on the fan shaft so the oil runs down it. There is a slight dish to the housing with the bushing under it. Repeat several times with a small amount of penetrating oil which, with luck, soak somewhat into the oil-lite bushing. Then I like to use turbine oil as it seems to seep into bushed bearings better than anything else I have tried but motor oil could work; just put a drop on a long screw driver tip and wipe it on the shaft. My experience is that this bushing is the one that seizes on this type of motor; when the motor seizes it does not burn up because they are impedance protected. The heat will vaporize the oil and blow it out the ducting. Carefully reassemble and note that the plastic housing has grooves for the wires. I had to use adhesive to put the gasket in place on the duct. If I need to do this again before the new part arrives then I will drill a hole just big enough for a spray straw and aimed towards the fan shaft. With luck I will be able to insert the straw until it stops at the shaft and then give it a drop of oil to run down the shaft. Some of the part numbers cross over to York so they may have made these furnaces for Coleman. I have a laser thermometer and plan on seeing how hot the duct gets. I hope this helps someone else and I did not mean to steal the poster's thunder with it. A special thanks to Rex G for starting this video.
The duct appears to be less than 100 degrees F so that means the heat exchanger is very efficient, which is good. The turbine oil should last for awhile until a new part arrives.
This video may be very helpful to me, as I am having troubles with mine. I replaced the pressure switch which did not fix the problem. I would love to hear what your furnace sound like now. Mine almost sounds like it is clicking when it tries to fire up.
No clicking here. The little motor inside the metal tube made a loud hum because it had power but couldn't turn. It was frozen. Then the fault light would flash. I suppose if it was broken but still turning it might make other noises. I'm not an expert on this.
Hey Kirk, here is a video that talks about a valve clicking. They replaced the igniter. You might want to look in the window to see if the igniter glows red. th-cam.com/video/Sm5mxovvyNU/w-d-xo.html
@@TremoloHarmonica Thanks you for your help. I definitely need a new inducer fan. It spins and moves air but not enough to trigger the pressure switch, and sounds restricted. Probably gummed up. I can make the furnace fire if I blow into the switch. Thanks again for the video!
this just started going bad in mine. This vid is great! I have no markings on mine but this is a daton model? Do you know the exact model number of the furnace unit itself?
Hi Rex. Great video! This helps a bunch. It looks like I have the exact same heater setup, I just had it installed. Just wondering if you had to change the heater fan speed? My factory setting on the fan speed is set to max, which is way too loud. Did you need to adjust the speed at all and if so how? Thanks!
Hi Chris. I think it was made in USA, but not sure. I had a pro install this furnace 5 years ago. It replaced a 25 year old one. I'm not an expert on this, just posted because I use TH-cam to help me fix things but couldn't find the answers this time.
I was in a "get it going now" mode, I sprayed a little WD-40 on the fan shaft, it ran down into the armature and lubed it enough for the squeaking to stop. the fan spun up faster creating enough vacuum for the pressure switch to activate. I think I'll keep doing this until it doesn't work anymore.. Good video, I was like... how do I get this apart.
Thank you so much for this video!! Local HVAC company was going to charge me $565 for this and I was able to get the part from a local part store for $100 and do it myself. You definitely saved me!
Thank You for the tip about the connectors as well! I see the same issue, and I will proceed accordingly. Thanks again!
Your video was so well done, I didn't even have to finish watching it to learn what I needed. You sir are a God send, thank you for your very well made video.
Thanks! I am about to do this, and this video is just what I needed!
Make sure there isn't something obstructing the vent before assuming the blower is bad. It will show the same code and symptoms if the vent is partially plugged. Sudden, heavy snowfall can do it.
Good to know. Thanks.
I'm having this issue and trying to narrow down the things that can cause the 3 blinks. I'm getting a whirring noise before the codes like a fan that's having trouble spinning. I'm figuring that means it's gotta be the blower rather than an obstruction. Right?
Hi Rex! Just wanted to say thank you for this video.. WOW! Power went out and the reset button was hidden well. Thanks again. UR a lifesaver.
You are welcome. Glad this video helped someone.
@@TremoloHarmonica Helped me too
Nicely explained. 👍 Tip: For positioning gaskets like this, just put a little piece of 3/4" Scotch Magic tape at screw hole locations on the gasket, holding it to the furnace. Bam!
It goes right together.
Good tip.
Thank you for this video. My furnace was installed in '05 and the original combustion blower motor is seized up, on Sunday, just before Christmas, with an elderly lady of 80, health issues, newly broken arm, and in a wheel chair. I am glad I found this video It is 5 days to get a new one and I may as well order the igniter as well. The upper vent tube near ceiling appears to be cemented in place for better sealing. You confirmed that the igniter assembly has to be removed to drop the blower motor assembly. I may buy the door gasket as well to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning. I have a carbon monoxide detector near the lower part of the furnace.
The igniter does not need to be removed. I bought a new one because I read somewhere that they are fragile. However, mine did not break, so I have a spare just in case. After removing the screws, just lower the assembly enough to get the upper tube free. Again, the igniter was NOT removed to replace the vent booster.
@@TremoloHarmonica Thanks for saving me $25 from Amazon. I am in the process of removing the booster and will Kroil the bearings. The booster motor should NEVER have been installed in a hot exhaust duct.
Thanks a million you saved me money and time thank you sir greatly appreciated
Thanks. 1 year later Your video is exsctly what I need.
This guys came in clutch today 💯he know his $h!t
Great video
Thanks
OK, Peoples, my furnace combustion blower motor is TEMPORARILY back in service this Sunday afternoon. Mine uses 5/16" hex screws which makes it easier than Phillips like some of the furnaces have. I have an offset ratchet wrench which makes accessing some of the motor mount screws easier. This temporary fix involves using Knock-r-Loose and turbine oil. First disconnect the motor leads and silicone tubing and trim 3/8" from the one that attaches to the plastic cover over the motor as the heat will soften it so that it loosens over time. Next remove the plastic cover and be careful with the felt gasket (which I glued back in place). I used a 5/16" socket with some rough painter's tape on it so I could grip it with thumb and forefinger for the hard-to-get-to screws. Loosen the screw for the motor assembly that is to the right and behind the duct and ONLY loosen it a turn max otherwise replacing it will be a challenge to get the holes to line up.. Remove the other two screws. Carefully push/tilt the motor winding portion downward about a half inch or so. This allows you to be a contortionist with a flash light and spray can straw of Knocker Loose or other penetrating oil of your choice. Just a drop or two on the fan shaft so the oil runs down it. There is a slight dish to the housing with the bushing under it. Repeat several times with a small amount of penetrating oil which, with luck, soak somewhat into the oil-lite bushing. Then I like to use turbine oil as it seems to seep into bushed bearings better than anything else I have tried but motor oil could work; just put a drop on a long screw driver tip and wipe it on the shaft. My experience is that this bushing is the one that seizes on this type of motor; when the motor seizes it does not burn up because they are impedance protected. The heat will vaporize the oil and blow it out the ducting. Carefully reassemble and note that the plastic housing has grooves for the wires. I had to use adhesive to put the gasket in place on the duct. If I need to do this again before the new part arrives then I will drill a hole just big enough for a spray straw and aimed towards the fan shaft. With luck I will be able to insert the straw until it stops at the shaft and then give it a drop of oil to run down the shaft. Some of the part numbers cross over to York so they may have made these furnaces for Coleman. I have a laser thermometer and plan on seeing how hot the duct gets.
I hope this helps someone else and I did not mean to steal the poster's thunder with it. A special thanks to Rex G for starting this video.
The duct appears to be less than 100 degrees F so that means the heat exchanger is very efficient, which is good. The turbine oil should last for awhile until a new part arrives.
Thanks for the update. The more info, the better. Glad to hear you are warm again.
This video may be very helpful to me, as I am having troubles with mine. I replaced the pressure switch which did not fix the problem. I would love to hear what your furnace sound like now. Mine almost sounds like it is clicking when it tries to fire up.
No clicking here. The little motor inside the metal tube made a loud hum because it had power but couldn't turn. It was frozen. Then the fault light would flash. I suppose if it was broken but still turning it might make other noises. I'm not an expert on this.
Hey Kirk, here is a video that talks about a valve clicking. They replaced the igniter. You might want to look in the window to see if the igniter glows red. th-cam.com/video/Sm5mxovvyNU/w-d-xo.html
@@TremoloHarmonica Thanks you for your help. I definitely need a new inducer fan. It spins and moves air but not enough to trigger the pressure switch, and sounds restricted. Probably gummed up. I can make the furnace fire if I blow into the switch. Thanks again for the video!
this just started going bad in mine. This vid is great! I have no markings on mine but this is a daton model? Do you know the exact model number of the furnace unit itself?
Did you get all the parts on colemans website or where did you find the blower assembly with fan and the gasket?
I think I found the parts on Amazon, but I don't remember for sure.
Hi Rex. Great video! This helps a bunch. It looks like I have the exact same heater setup, I just had it installed. Just wondering if you had to change the heater fan speed? My factory setting on the fan speed is set to max, which is way too loud. Did you need to adjust the speed at all and if so how? Thanks!
I didn't change the fan speed and was not even aware that it could be changed. Sorry, I can't give a better answer.
Hey rex, what is the black wire from the mother board coming out the left side wired to
Sorry, I don't know.
Was it made in China ?
Good thing you got it when you did ! Good info.
Thanks.
Hi Chris. I think it was made in USA, but not sure. I had a pro install this furnace 5 years ago. It replaced a 25 year old one. I'm not an expert on this, just posted because I use TH-cam to help me fix things but couldn't find the answers this time.
I was in a "get it going now" mode, I sprayed a little WD-40 on the fan shaft, it ran down into the armature and lubed it enough for the squeaking to stop. the fan spun up faster creating enough vacuum for the pressure switch to activate. I think I'll keep doing this until it doesn't work anymore.. Good video, I was like... how do I get this apart.