It is an amazing build but you are a godsend to the car community my friend 💪🤙 No biases and no matter what you're doing you drop it all and answer that call. Never change my dude!! But also don't forget about #1 and #5(Sho-Nuff)
Hi Brent. What’s your educated guess on the oil pressure issue? I figured not blocking the oil passage with the k20 pump or adding the ATI damper messed up shimming or a tensioner
Tip for O-Ring Installation: Pack O-Ring slot with vasoline, so it sticks in there. The extra vasoline will flush out in the oil. Old Rotary building trick. (Congratulations at Clutchkickers!)
I would want to use something that would keep it in tact if I have to remove the cover again. Like silicone just on one side. When he pulls it again it is going to fall out and he will not know if it fell out during install or removal.
Taylor, when you install the k20 pump on the 24 you need to removed a oil restrictor that is on the block and then plug that hole. If you dont you will have 30PSI of oil pressure.
I was wondering the passage to when he swaped to the type r pump but i think i remembered him plugging it off cuz at the same time jimmy o was doing same thing and he almost forgot.....
I love when you do storytime as you disassemble with a different camera angles I know that is some hard work even to plan out And edit thank you for bringing us along
Try to replace the oil filter with a different brand if you haven't already and make sure your oil pressure sensor is calibrated in the ECU maybe somebody hit the wrong button on accident trying to figure out the other issues
I changed my filter to a different brand and gained 10 psi at idle and good call on the calibration.... He should tap a mechanical gauge on it just to be sure cuz he definitely was in the computer alot since he was have soft limiter issues
The vct solenoid also got changed with the cover r and r. Maybe an o-ring missing or something. May want to compare the new with the old. Just spitballing. Usually it would take a bunch of sealer to clog a pickup screen, you seem very cautious so I wouldn’t think I’d be that. You may want to cut the oil filter open and check for debris, before dropping the pan, so you’ll know what kind of condition the engine is in.
As someone who has worked on plenty of K series, that’s abnormally low oil pressure for a K series even with a dual pass cooler. Also, I’m not sure if you have yet but you’ll wanna upgrade that oil pump to a modified s2000 oil pump to avoid aeration and cavitation to your oil when you are ripping high rpm regularly.
I was thinking cavitation and aeration because he's really moving quite a column of oil, but too many other things don't fit for me. It could be a weird reaction to a viscosity or an air bubble. Is his cannister connected? Are oil levels changing at all? Is the oil cooler too high? Too many bends?
random thought... did you lube the orings of the VVT solenoid before installing? The aluminum could have cut one of the o rings and thats where your oil pressure is going.
IIRC the crank trigger wheel is stamped with "outside" for the correct orientation. I've also been running a 6 rib belt for a year on my swap without issue.
Love all the technical jibber jabber. Something you really never think about. I knew it had to be something simple. Brent is the man. Also congrats on clutch kickers win!
If I remember right he did it in two videos n a few people said something about that on the first one so on the second one he showed putting it in only reason I remember is cuz I was gonna mention it aswell but saw all the comments
You can use hylomar its a "gasket dresser" and its a tacky glue that holds gaskets in place... I'm a rotary guy and we use this for all the coolant jackets. Defenetly a nice thing to have in the shop and its very cheap, you can get it on amazon. It basically never hardens and holds your gaskets in place during assembly
Quick tip- I use a small amount of super 77 or super 44 spray adhesive to hold O rings like that in place. The heat of the engine will cook it off as soon as it hits operating temp, but it keeps everything in position while assembling it.
@@josephmatuszak3855 I brought the super 77 trick from building Detroit Diesels. The 2 strokes don't use a head gasket per se, they use viton, copper, and buna O-rings to seal, and it seems that they're all designed to fall out of their grooves the precise moment you're attempting to lower one of the 200lb cylinder heads into position.
@@josephmatuszak3855 So you've been there too. Lol, nothing worse than getting a head on and seeing one of the damned orings laying on the ground. I tried the vaseline, but the rubber ones still jumped out. The spray adhesive was pure desperation, and it worked. Been using the trick for nearly 30yrs now. Not trying to step on toes, just thought I'd pass on knowledge I got the hard way.
@@stuffandjunkandthings364 Oh for sure, if you wanna know the trick, it's wax paper. I slide it over the O-ring/slot with Vasoline and it vacuums it in. I used to get thru anywhere from 7-15 pairs of heads a day. Them aimers can figure out how to eat any motor. I also used to really agitate the base commander at Lejuene when dyno testing 6v's with open header no turbo. How else ya gonna get that rack adjustment for throttle response tho? (sp)
Bloody ell fella, I feel so sad for you with the oil pressure kick in the nuts 😕 I could hear the frustration in your voice almost. Keep your head up and you will overcome the problem Taylor ✌🇬🇧✌🇺🇸
Some months I have a failure rate of up to 30% for "new in box" parts. Never trust. I once had TWO failed sensors from CAT and one failed old sensor when I was troubleshooting an issue...That was a fun two days.
u changed the oil correct? what kind of oil filter did u use? I ask cuz my miata days taught me that oil filters allow different oil pressures. Frams for example suck
Brant as always helped out, so cool to see, he's such a awesome guy!! So cool you figured it out! 👍💪 I know exactly that frustrating face when you came home with low oil pressure and you have to do everything AGAIN. Man I had such problems once and had to do something worse then you have 5 times and I was near burning the car down! Keep you're head up man, once everythings sorted you'll be happy.
I’m so thankful that you’re sponsored by Haltech and that their customer service seemed great, but they seem lightyears behind Holly’s ECU. Every time I see Cleet’s dash or even him changing something in the tune, it looks so user friendly. I get it though brother!
@@ChipsNeeson what rock do you live under? Holley is a performance parts company. Everything from wheels, engine swaps, tuning, everything and anything performance parts
Hey Taylor, congrats on klutchkickers! Have you ever thought about creating another channel for all the raw/technical stuff for the guys like myself that enjoy that kind of stuff? Love the channel and the builds.
I have had a similar problem before, I had the oil filter lines backwards and the check valve in the oil filter restricted the oil flow. Just some food for thought. Love your work keep it up!
I’ve seen oil pick ups that get clogged up from Extra RTV squishing out after torquing the front cover. Good luck man! Low oil pressure is no bueno. Love the content!! 🤙🏽
When I built my Nova I ended up having to take the engine out and put it back in something like 10 times trying to track down a tapping noise. Turned out the machine shop I had drill my heads for the screw in studs took their "crankshaft" and shoved it right in my bottom end without even a proper line hone..... The Studs were drilled in every angle but the correct one. And they were all different. So, it needed a new set of heads... By that time I was out of money and ended up having to sell it. I miss that car...
It’s crazy how hard it is to find a decent machinist who wants to work these days. I have to drive 200 miles for machine work because the three shops in my area just straight up refuse to do any work. Bought a motor assembled by a local shop off a guy, not a single ring gap or oil clearance in the entire engine was in spec. Not one. Too many people are equal parts lazy and stupid these days.
I can vouch for the bit where you talked about it being a pain to reseal the timing cover and such. I’ve done it twice on my ‘77. The 302 loves to rev but nothing else on the engine likes it much. I tend to blow through mechanical fuel pumps and stock water pumps. It’s a pain making sure nothing slips into the oil pan, but it’s fully worth the smiles per miles. 👍🏼🤣
Before you drop sump pan... I don’t suppose you altered something in the Haltech tune software when you were looking into that 5K rev limiter plus the trigger wheel/timing cal? How about oil by-pass arrangements on those engines/oil filter? ....You also changed the filter... just a hunch. Worth a check. Keep up the great content and chin-up on getting her ripping. Gonna be great! Congrats of the Klutch Kicker win too.
Like everyone has pointed out it says "Outside" on one side of the gear. Also Honda OEM parts has yellow and white Marks, pay attention to those. When Installing that cover o'ring I use a tiny bit of RTV to hold that gasket from slipping. Did you do an upgraded oil pump?
I understand your frustrations with those o rings. The solution is was taught was to take some yellow weather striping adhesive and pee glue the o rings. I Havnt had any issues with it and it works great.
I have to give a HUGE shout out to Brent. Being able to think about the timing gear being backwards…. Wow. The hardest part about over the phone diag is you can’t see it and you don’t know what someone else has done to it. Good F’ing work Brent
You can use wide masking tape folded in half lengthwise and then turn it into a measuring tape by marking it along side your tape measure to measure exact belt size,this can then be reused to measure any belt size on any engine.
When I had a 32 I found that the gearbox mount also transferred tons amount of noise, I was fine with a solid mount everywhere else but the gearbox and ended up going back to a new stock unit. Definitely rubber isolate whatever you do !
if there is a keyway on the crankshaft that spins the gear for the oil pump check to make sure the key is still in it or it hasn't been broken, just a thought but hopefully you figure it out man!
The vibration issue sounds like it’s your clutch/flywheel out of balance. I have had the exact same issue and it was a clutch masters pressure plate being 30 grams out of balance. Replaced it and the second plate was 15 grams out. Both make the engine vibrate like crazy even on free revving.
I feel ya when it comes to fighting a project to the bitter end, motivation is the number one reason projects dont get finished and as much as it sucks once you start a project you are dreading I have noticed you get halfway through it and realize it really wasnt that bad and you should've just done it instead of dragging your feet. Stick with it and you will make it out the other side, might be difficult but you will get there. Godspeed
Taylor ! Check the ATI damper hasn’t lowered the pressure Strange I know but it’s something that you’ve changed since the timing cover repair, I remember watching a Driftworks video of their ae86 with a nascar engine that had low oil pressure as a result of an old Un serviced ati dampener I wonder whether a slight issue with the new dampener could be throwing you this sudden loss of oil pressure Hope you see this ! Keep it up from the uk 🤟🏻
before you tear it down change the oil filter, my LS car was having a similar issue and turns out the oil filter was tanking the pressure as the motor warmed up. super odd, but glad i checked before i tore her town completely...again!... issue went away on the spot once i changed it.
I feel like a lot of the time the solution to most problems just comes to you once you step away and take a break. When your frustrated you can't think straight.
I feel like you really need to make a little plate to cover that intercooler core! It would be great for holding tools and parts while working in the engine bay I think
Going through the same thing with my twin turbo s10 on my channel. Engine has been so perfect and suddenly I noticed I'm missing like 15psi at idle, went through a bunch and found some random glitter that I think is cam bearings and I'm just bleh about it
Check the sensor calibration in the Haltech. Then check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. I wouldn’t tear it all down until I knew the sensor you’re reading is actually correct.
First congratz on your win, second I bet something shook loose or cracked in the oil pick-up area. I had a big gob of rtv and an o-ring in my pick-up once never noticed a drop really. Or some clearance is opening up, easy top cut the filter and check for material.
Im not a k series expert by any means but the other thing you did change at that time is the v tec solenoid witch i know runs off the oil pressure could that have anything to do with the low oil pressure?
Love it!! I can’t wait to get out there and learn to drift with you! Truly such an amazing build!
It is an amazing build but you are a godsend to the car community my friend 💪🤙 No biases and no matter what you're doing you drop it all and answer that call. Never change my dude!! But also don't forget about #1 and #5(Sho-Nuff)
Hi Brent. What’s your educated guess on the oil pressure issue? I figured not blocking the oil passage with the k20 pump or adding the ATI damper messed up shimming or a tensioner
💓🥳 Drifting Brent would be rad, take the burnout comps to the next level! 😎 ⬆️
Your in a valley brother, time to reach out to God. Not a priest, not beads, just the Holy Bible and Jesus.
Should Tune it via hotspot Brent, chuck it on the fasterproms dyno
Tip for O-Ring Installation: Pack O-Ring slot with vasoline, so it sticks in there. The extra vasoline will flush out in the oil. Old Rotary building trick. (Congratulations at Clutchkickers!)
I always used to use a little grease to hold O-rings in place.
@@johny79action grease can degrade the Oring, vaseline will not attack any O ring material I know of
Was told to do this after priming oil pump when installing or replacing
Dielectric grease
I would want to use something that would keep it in tact if I have to remove the cover again. Like silicone just on one side. When he pulls it again it is going to fall out and he will not know if it fell out during install or removal.
Shout out to Brent at pfi for helping Taylor.
Brent is the best!!!
I know I wunna see Tay-tay collab with the whole PFI team so bad!
That dyno session is coming soon I hope
This is a collab we need!
And Haltech for sorting it out with one phone call
Taylor, when you install the k20 pump on the 24 you need to removed a oil restrictor that is on the block and then plug that hole. If you dont you will have 30PSI of oil pressure.
Pretty certain he did mention it in a previous video.
YOOOO Let's thumb this comment up to the top so Taylor sees this shit before he rips out anymore hair
He definitely did plug it with a 12 mil bolt I remember him mention it at the end of the motor cuz a few people commented on it
This has gotta be it Taylor!^^^
@@garyhowe88 Yeah i just went back and watched it and noticed he did plug it.
Pull the damper off and check it is engaging the pump correctly and that you haven't damaged the pump when you fitted the damper
Easy to mess up a tensioner or it might need a shim with the ati damper. Another one is the oil passage when you use a k20 oil pump.
I was wondering the passage to when he swaped to the type r pump but i think i remembered him plugging it off cuz at the same time jimmy o was doing same thing and he almost forgot.....
the oil pump is chain driven off the crank. it’s not keyed or flat spotted like other engines
Miss the Florida weather updates & Sandy's input from back in back in the day.
I was just saying this... I need to know what’s going on with sandy. I feel like we haven’t seen her in forever!!!
Do NOT underestimate the art of the ‘jibberjabber’
I love when you do storytime as you disassemble with a different camera angles I know that is some hard work even to plan out And edit thank you for bringing us along
Try to replace the oil filter with a different brand if you haven't already and make sure your oil pressure sensor is calibrated in the ECU maybe somebody hit the wrong button on accident trying to figure out the other issues
I changed my filter to a different brand and gained 10 psi at idle and good call on the calibration.... He should tap a mechanical gauge on it just to be sure cuz he definitely was in the computer alot since he was have soft limiter issues
I was thinking the same thing, maybe a defective filter? he runs Wix which is one of the best oil filters you can get
I love that, "the more you learn the less other people can help you."
Great job at clutch kickers
The vct solenoid also got changed with the cover r and r. Maybe an o-ring missing or something. May want to compare the new with the old. Just spitballing. Usually it would take a bunch of sealer to clog a pickup screen, you seem very cautious so I wouldn’t think I’d be that. You may want to cut the oil filter open and check for debris, before dropping the pan, so you’ll know what kind of condition the engine is in.
Agreed I would be looking at the VCT solenoid cus thats the only other thing you changed!!!!!! Check that fo sho!
Came here just to suggest the vct. If that didn't seal right or the units bad you'll lose boat loads of oil pressure.
My thoughts as well
As someone who has worked on plenty of K series, that’s abnormally low oil pressure for a K series even with a dual pass cooler. Also, I’m not sure if you have yet but you’ll wanna upgrade that oil pump to a modified s2000 oil pump to avoid aeration and cavitation to your oil when you are ripping high rpm regularly.
I was thinking cavitation and aeration because he's really moving quite a column of oil, but too many other things don't fit for me. It could be a weird reaction to a viscosity or an air bubble. Is his cannister connected? Are oil levels changing at all? Is the oil cooler too high? Too many bends?
He upgraded the oil pump. There is a plug or something he had to put in when he did. Maybe that plug failed?
K20a2 ported oil pump. A s2k would work but the type s is a much better pump than the f20
He did a Type S oil pump. Is the F20/22 pump better?
Glad I could help you figure it out! That damn tensioner
random thought... did you lube the orings of the VVT solenoid before installing? The aluminum could have cut one of the o rings and thats where your oil pressure is going.
Should leak oil externaly in that case
@@Slammed46 not if it was the bottom or middle o ring. Was just a thought though
IIRC the crank trigger wheel is stamped with "outside" for the correct orientation.
I've also been running a 6 rib belt for a year on my swap without issue.
Hands down the most humble driver. Dude , congratulations on winning the competition. The Miata kicked ass!!
Love all the technical jibber jabber. Something you really never think about. I knew it had to be something simple. Brent is the man. Also congrats on clutch kickers win!
When you changed to the k20 oil pump did you plug the extra bhole where the k24 pan was
I'm not sure he did, I don't remember him mentioning it
Let's get these comments bumped up to the top!
He did he didn't mention it till the end of the motor build video but a few guys also commented on it back then
@@phillipwarner5504 did think it would be weird for him to miss something like that
If I remember right he did it in two videos n a few people said something about that on the first one so on the second one he showed putting it in only reason I remember is cuz I was gonna mention it aswell but saw all the comments
You can use hylomar its a "gasket dresser" and its a tacky glue that holds gaskets in place... I'm a rotary guy and we use this for all the coolant jackets. Defenetly a nice thing to have in the shop and its very cheap, you can get it on amazon. It basically never hardens and holds your gaskets in place during assembly
Moly lube works great too. Marine industry but same
Man Taylor you're a beast when it comes to fault finding, never seen anyone so determined keep up the great work and you will fix this and be rippin.
if you think hes a beast go sit in a dealerships shop and be amazed lol
Quick tip- I use a small amount of super 77 or super 44 spray adhesive to hold O rings like that in place. The heat of the engine will cook it off as soon as it hits operating temp, but it keeps everything in position while assembling it.
I use vasoline, brought that over from rotary building. Rinses out in the oil while helping with initial oil pressure on start-up.
@@josephmatuszak3855 I brought the super 77 trick from building Detroit Diesels. The 2 strokes don't use a head gasket per se, they use viton, copper, and buna O-rings to seal, and it seems that they're all designed to fall out of their grooves the precise moment you're attempting to lower one of the 200lb cylinder heads into position.
@@stuffandjunkandthings364 I was QC in the USMC in the 2nd and 3rd MEF. I know my 6v's and 8v's. Thx
@@josephmatuszak3855 So you've been there too. Lol, nothing worse than getting a head on and seeing one of the damned orings laying on the ground. I tried the vaseline, but the rubber ones still jumped out. The spray adhesive was pure desperation, and it worked. Been using the trick for nearly 30yrs now. Not trying to step on toes, just thought I'd pass on knowledge I got the hard way.
@@stuffandjunkandthings364 Oh for sure, if you wanna know the trick, it's wax paper. I slide it over the O-ring/slot with Vasoline and it vacuums it in. I used to get thru anywhere from 7-15 pairs of heads a day. Them aimers can figure out how to eat any motor. I also used to really agitate the base commander at Lejuene when dyno testing 6v's with open header no turbo. How else ya gonna get that rack adjustment for throttle response tho? (sp)
There is always a solution. Garage built, and home diagnostics for the win!
If you closely on the toothed sprocket it has OUT - SIDE stamped on the face as a helpful guide.
When I worked at the Honda dealer I always smodged a small bit of hondabond on o rings to hold them in place. Great work on the car Taylor.
Keep your head up man. It will be worth it once it's sorted. I love this build and you've done so well with everything.
Some of your vibration is probably from the solid mount in the center of the exhaust
Bloody ell fella, I feel so sad for you with the oil pressure kick in the nuts 😕
I could hear the frustration in your voice almost. Keep your head up and you will overcome the problem Taylor ✌🇬🇧✌🇺🇸
Congratulations on the win at Clutch Kickers
Nothing like honesty. God, I love this channel. 👍
Love watching you work on projects
You’ll get it bro! It’s likely to be something simple
Diagnostics;
Rule 1: keep it simple
Rule 2: don’t trust new parts
💪
Some months I have a failure rate of up to 30% for "new in box" parts. Never trust. I once had TWO failed sensors from CAT and one failed old sensor when I was troubleshooting an issue...That was a fun two days.
Totally not a drift guy . But you inspire with your abilities to fab and wrench . Thank you for being a class act
You are on the right path. Check the things you changed. Check the filter before you pull everything.
u changed the oil correct? what kind of oil filter did u use? I ask cuz my miata days taught me that oil filters allow different oil pressures. Frams for example suck
Two things I would check is pull and cut the oil filter, second is check the damper engagment and make sure it did mess the oil pump up when r&r
Glad you were recommended! Great content
Also have had a small piece of trvy blocking the oil pressure sensor hole on a merc outboard...
Brant as always helped out, so cool to see, he's such a awesome guy!! So cool you figured it out! 👍💪
I know exactly that frustrating face when you came home with low oil pressure and you have to do everything AGAIN. Man I had such problems once and had to do something worse then you have 5 times and I was near burning the car down!
Keep you're head up man, once everythings sorted you'll be happy.
I’m so thankful that you’re sponsored by Haltech and that their customer service seemed great, but they seem lightyears behind Holly’s ECU. Every time I see Cleet’s dash or even him changing something in the tune, it looks so user friendly. I get it though brother!
Holly is a carburetor company.
@@ChipsNeeson what rock do you live under? Holley is a performance parts company. Everything from wheels, engine swaps, tuning, everything and anything performance parts
@@ChipsNeeson Holley's been doing aftermarket EFI for 20+ years.
@@brandonwene5790 thanks guys, I didn’t want to be the one to explain that.
HALTECH 🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
Hey Taylor, congrats on klutchkickers! Have you ever thought about creating another channel for all the raw/technical stuff for the guys like myself that enjoy that kind of stuff? Love the channel and the builds.
Tough luck buddy. I'm sure you will get it sorted. Love the vids, keep them coming!
I have had a similar problem before, I had the oil filter lines backwards and the check valve in the oil filter restricted the oil flow. Just some food for thought. Love your work keep it up!
That clutch kickers win smile 😂 Good vid as always
Great build can’t wait to see this drift
I told you about the trigger wheel being flipped inside out on the last céfiro build video. But I’m glad you figured out the haltech issue thou.
I’ve seen oil pick ups that get clogged up from Extra RTV squishing out after torquing the front cover. Good luck man! Low oil pressure is no bueno. Love the content!! 🤙🏽
Fire me up!! This is my favorite build on TH-cam atm... and I truly appreciate your ability to make a video out of the build I feel like I'm there !
Try the filter for sure, not same motor but had it happen to me 3 times now.
Brent is such an awesome guy. Glad you got that figured out. BUT I NEED to know...Where. Is. Sandy?! We need an update on her ☺️
When I built my Nova I ended up having to take the engine out and put it back in something like 10 times trying to track down a tapping noise.
Turned out the machine shop I had drill my heads for the screw in studs took their "crankshaft" and shoved it right in my bottom end without even a proper line hone.....
The Studs were drilled in every angle but the correct one. And they were all different.
So, it needed a new set of heads...
By that time I was out of money and ended up having to sell it.
I miss that car...
"machine shop"
It’s crazy how hard it is to find a decent machinist who wants to work these days. I have to drive 200 miles for machine work because the three shops in my area just straight up refuse to do any work. Bought a motor assembled by a local shop off a guy, not a single ring gap or oil clearance in the entire engine was in spec. Not one. Too many people are equal parts lazy and stupid these days.
@@mikescherrer4923 I’m 18 and almost done with machining school so I’ll e able to contribute to engine builds soon lol
@@keatonjanway3386 good to hear, man! We need the next generation doing this stuff
At least it was something simple, Brent and haltech to the rescue!!
I can vouch for the bit where you talked about it being a pain to reseal the timing cover and such. I’ve done it twice on my ‘77. The 302 loves to rev but nothing else on the engine likes it much. I tend to blow through mechanical fuel pumps and stock water pumps. It’s a pain making sure nothing slips into the oil pan, but it’s fully worth the smiles per miles. 👍🏼🤣
That fort minor sing-along putting the cover back on took me back to high school break ups 🤣
Im happy that the car is almost done, but also sad this series will end lol
Before you drop sump pan... I don’t suppose you altered something in the Haltech tune software when you were looking into that 5K rev limiter plus the trigger wheel/timing cal? How about oil by-pass arrangements on those engines/oil filter? ....You also changed the filter... just a hunch. Worth a check. Keep up the great content and chin-up on getting her ripping. Gonna be great! Congrats of the Klutch Kicker win too.
I checked that. Sensor scale was correct. Even changed the sensor. Put the old filter back on. Etc. lol
Like everyone has pointed out it says "Outside" on one side of the gear. Also Honda OEM parts has yellow and white Marks, pay attention to those. When Installing that cover o'ring I use a tiny bit of RTV to hold that gasket from slipping. Did you do an upgraded oil pump?
he swapped out the K24 with a Type R 2.0 one
@@danielcgomez Thanks I figured he upgraded but wasnt sure.
There are always issues on a custom build. I hope you find it. Great video
Pibb Xtra is 🔥 just like your content. Thanks for the sweet builds and videos!
I understand your frustrations with those o rings. The solution is was taught was to take some yellow weather striping adhesive and pee glue the o rings. I Havnt had any issues with it and it works great.
You’re definitely on to something with the front cover relation. Wondering if it’s somehow dampener or VTC solenoid related.
I have to give a HUGE shout out to Brent. Being able to think about the timing gear being backwards…. Wow. The hardest part about over the phone diag is you can’t see it and you don’t know what someone else has done to it. Good F’ing work Brent
You need sponsored from rtv think ur rtv count in this video has to ova 100😝 keep up the great work👊 can't wait to see it finally rip
You can use wide masking tape folded in half lengthwise and then turn it into a measuring tape by marking it along side your tape measure to measure exact belt size,this can then be reused to measure any belt size on any engine.
When I had a 32 I found that the gearbox mount also transferred tons amount of noise, I was fine with a solid mount everywhere else but the gearbox and ended up going back to a new stock unit. Definitely rubber isolate whatever you do !
Keep up the great content Taylor you always get a thumbs up for me can't wait for the next upload!
21:56 Taylor, I just got done doing an oil pan gasket for the second time in a week. I know your pain.
Future Taylor had to do it twice as well 😂
At least the second time goes by quicker.
I'd check the oil pump after installing the new damper.
Keep your head high man, be proud of yourself and take some time to yourself to recharge before you go at it again, perseverance seldom fail.
Love watching your videos and absorbing the knowledge man
if there is a keyway on the crankshaft that spins the gear for the oil pump check to make sure the key is still in it or it hasn't been broken, just a thought but hopefully you figure it out man!
You got this bud stuff happens with new builds. Great content keep it up!
Stay positive dude, you got this!
Been waiting for this to drop
The vibration issue sounds like it’s your clutch/flywheel out of balance. I have had the exact same issue and it was a clutch masters pressure plate being 30 grams out of balance. Replaced it and the second plate was 15 grams out. Both make the engine vibrate like crazy even on free revving.
I put the trigger wheel on backwards in my first Miata cam swap lol. Internet came to the rescue, had to do the job twice.
Have you ever tried roll loc wheels for cleaning off old RTV apparently they are really good
I feel ya when it comes to fighting a project to the bitter end, motivation is the number one reason projects dont get finished and as much as it sucks once you start a project you are dreading I have noticed you get halfway through it and realize it really wasnt that bad and you should've just done it instead of dragging your feet. Stick with it and you will make it out the other side, might be difficult but you will get there. Godspeed
take the good with the bad my dude..... your diligence is already paying off with OVERSIZED checks & 🏆
My boy with the Pibb Xtra in the cup holder
Aye taylor ray listens to juice wrld 👊🏽
Ati dampers are worth the money. Awesome job
Taylor ! Check the ATI damper hasn’t lowered the pressure
Strange I know but it’s something that you’ve changed since the timing cover repair, I remember watching a Driftworks video of their ae86 with a nascar engine that had low oil pressure as a result of an old Un serviced ati dampener
I wonder whether a slight issue with the new dampener could be throwing you this sudden loss of oil pressure
Hope you see this !
Keep it up from the uk 🤟🏻
I hope u get more views on this series, its good! Its a special car!
before you tear it down change the oil filter, my LS car was having a similar issue and turns out the oil filter was tanking the pressure as the motor warmed up. super odd, but glad i checked before i tore her town completely...again!... issue went away on the spot once i changed it.
I feel like a lot of the time the solution to most problems just comes to you once you step away and take a break. When your frustrated you can't think straight.
I feel like you really need to make a little plate to cover that intercooler core! It would be great for holding tools and parts while working in the engine bay I think
Make sure the o ring on the vtc solenoid is good before you pull the engine... They have quite a bit of oil pressure sent to them
That thing to hold engine from the top is a Transverse bar.
Going through the same thing with my twin turbo s10 on my channel. Engine has been so perfect and suddenly I noticed I'm missing like 15psi at idle, went through a bunch and found some random glitter that I think is cam bearings and I'm just bleh about it
love the build! great job at clutch kickers! you should be in fd for sure!
I hope its not the oil gallery you plugged while doing the type s oil pump swap that's losing the pressure.
Invest i a super small slide hammer with a flat hook end, might even find one searching for case cover slide hammers, better then prying the rtv apart
Perfect explaination...
Brents very cluey.
I love your stuff man. Keep up the good work. I hope one day I can get the time and money to start on a project car
Check the sensor calibration in the Haltech. Then check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. I wouldn’t tear it all down until I knew the sensor you’re reading is actually correct.
First congratz on your win, second I bet something shook loose or cracked in the oil pick-up area. I had a big gob of rtv and an o-ring in my pick-up once never noticed a drop really. Or some clearance is opening up, easy top cut the filter and check for material.
Check the pressure relief valve in the oil pump. There may be a piece of RTV stuck on the seating surface of the valve.
Good luck buddy.
Im not a k series expert by any means but the other thing you did change at that time is the v tec solenoid witch i know runs off the oil pressure could that have anything to do with the low oil pressure?