Flsun Super Racer 3d Printer Review, Speed and Quality Tests
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2024
- Learn about the Flsun Super Racer, delta style 3d printer designed for speed. How fast is it? What about quality? In this extensive video, I walk through and discuss the specifications of this 3d printer and use a series of prints to tune test first speed and then quality.
Here is an affiliate link to the printer on Amazon that helps to support the channel:
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Contents
00:00 Introduction
03:15 Specifications and Analysis of the Flsun Super Racer
11:38 Loading Filament in the Flsun Super Racer
12:32 Cura Setup for the Flsun Super Racer
13:59 Review of Spare Parts
17:33 Flsun Super Racer Cura Profile Review
18:29 Impact on Acceleration on 3d Printer Speed
19:42 Flsun Super Racer Print Speed and Quality
23:43 Adjusting Belts on a Delta Style 3d Printer
31:00 Flsun Super Racer Vase Mode Printing
32:00 Testing Filament Out Sensor
32:12 Who should buy a Flsun Super Racer?
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The MakeWithTech channel teaches people how to use desktop technology to create, innovate and make things. If you are a "maker" and want to learn more about 3d Printing, 3d Printers, 3d Printing Slicers, Computer-Aided Design (CAD), or 3d Modeling, this is a place you should visit often. The channel includes additional content about using a wood lathe, woodworking, programming single-board computers such as the Raspberry Pi, Adafruit Circuit Playground, ESP32, and Python. Available reviews are about Prusa, Creality, Monoprice, ANET, Flsun, Fokoos, JG Maker, and Flashforge 3d Printers. Slicers covered include MatterControl, Cura, PrusaSlicer, Flashprint, and IdeaMaker. CAD design videos cover TinkerCAD, FreeCAD, OpenSCAD, and Shapr3D. Slicers covered include MatterControl, Cura, PrusaSlicer, Flashprint, and IdeaMaker.
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Let's continue to learn together. Irv
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That was hands down one of the best, most thorough reviews - answering all the question I had about this printer - that I have watched. I was on the fence to buy this one and this review helped push me over the edge to make the jump. Thank you very much for your time and excellent investigative review!
Agree. Wish more reviewers would point that out instead of just saying how fast it is. It is fast. Anything post 40mm/s is fast, and this printer blows that out of the park with way better print quality than most traditional printers at high speeds. However, most people need to know they'll probably be best served at lower speeds than the max the printer will do, which will still be fast by most 3d print standards.
I learned quite a bit from this video. Thanks! I love my SR. I followed teaching techs calibration guide and found my prints were much better at 150mm/s. I set my base to 160mm/s after changing to a bimetal heat break and upgrading to 5015 fans. I finally got klipper setup and running. Uncalibrated the quality was already much much better. I am still calibrating and learning how to use klipper and fluidd. I’ll report back my experience once I’m done! It’s turning out to be quality and speed just like I am looking for! (I feel like in a few years, maybe sooner, we will look at 150mm/s as slow for a standard printer)
Thanks a bunch on the tip on tuning the belts. Have been impressed with this printer as it's cut down printing times in half and maintaining the fine quality. The default Fine profile in Cura has been working out great!
Excellent video sir!! You touched on all of the relevant points without getting in the weeds. Subscribed.
Super Great Video! I have one of these on the way and could not be more excited after watching! Previously had a MP Delta Pro and will be excited to see how it stacks up
Thank you so much this actually solved my question because I couldn't figure out why my printer wasn't able to detect my flash drive. No one on forums answered that it was a firmware problem and that the SD card AND USB slot don't both work out of the box. Also thank you for going into so much detail on tuning it, I got mine this past week and am excited to improve print quality already.
Thanks for the good infos of FLsun Weldone video. Awesome idea of the belt tuner 👍👍👍.
Thanks for the review, I have a SR on the way and your belt tensioning information was very helpful (amongst other hints) In my quest for information and sifting through these reviews I have not seen anybody calibrate the extruder (E Stops) on these yet and nobody has changed the boden tube to Capricorn.
Good job on the video and the information, this is a good review.
great review Irv thanks.
A piece of advice for your vases: I fill the bottom of them with plaster (ratio 1:1) and then I let it dry for a week. After that, they are quite stable.
Great idea. I have been using glass florists beads in mine. That said the vases I print with 3 walls, no top, no infill with the vase/serialize setting have much better weight.
Thank you for this informative video, many very useful tips especially for the belt tensioning. I have just bought the QQ-S to compliment my Ender 5 Pro (which will now be used for miniatures) and it isn't as rapid as the SR but is still quick. I definitely agree on the quality issues - layer shifting and stringing - so an update on your findings would be very interesting. I had issues with bed adhesion but found a sugar water method from Mysimplefix video and it works excellently.
Great review
Good points as always
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)
very good review
Thank you very much for the information
I got Delta but I’m finally out of isolation tomorrow. 😅
Actually, My prints will pop off when the plate is a little less than 40 c. As it cools further, you can hear it start to make cracking sounds.
I'm glad you actually got the chance to test the flsun delta. I learned something about tuning the belts. I was wondering what I could come up with to sync the belts, even a pressure sensing device.
I bought the Super Racer today as a second printer. Really excited getting it :D
I continue to be impressed at how fast it is.
@@MakeWithTech very good review. Thanks for that :-)
I have an FLsun Q5. It has been working great for me. I probably could have gotten a cartesian printer for the same price or less but I love watching the delta print.
Thanks for sharing
I'm researching all the 3d printers. So far, I keep coming back to the Super Racer. I like your videos a lot. How about a can of compressed air to cool the print? I few seconds of cold air blast may free the print. I think you are a really nice guy!
Thankyou for very informative video, the belt tuning is a fantastic idea I will adopt immediately on my SR, for easy part removal use a round piece of 3mm to 5mm thick Borosilicate glass, use bulldog clips to hold down the glass to the original heated bed. recalibrate your Z axis ( bed height) to compensate for the glass, clean with IPA this should cost less than £25 GBP.
Glad it helped. Thanks for the suggestion.
Got all the info I wanted, and more. I'm used to higher paced video's but this was very good quality wise! Would you recommend this as a second printer?
Great review; and knowing my way around 3D printers and especially delta type printers, I would actually choose this printer today if I were in the market for a new printer (I'm not, I'm happy with the Monoprice Delta Pro which I got at a ridiculously low price 1 1/2years ago). However, choosing the Super Racer, I'd also invest in certain minor (and cheap) improvements - but most importantly, I'd use Prusa Slicer or Super Slicer. Personally, I use Super Slicer because I need the extra adjustments that are possible - but Cura does a weird thing with acceleration/jerk settings.
You actually also mention with the Monoprice MP10 in your review, that we should leave jerk alone for that printer; and that's true - for Cura. However, with Prusa Slicer or Super Slicer, you can actually utilize jerk settings for faster print speeds in a lot of scenarios. And furthermore you can push acceleration a lot more.
There's something about the acceleration curve in the algorithm that Cura does, which Prusa Slicer (and hence, Super Slicer which is built on Prusa Slicer) does not. Even with low jerk speeds, Cura will violently accelerate - maybe it's actually just linear - whereas Prusa Slicer does what seems to be an easing.
Testing on my Monoprice Delta Pro at 150 mm/s print speed, in Cura I can go to a max of 2500 mm/s acceleration and just 10 mm/s jerk, before it straight up throws the magnetic rods off. Even if I'm lucky and the magnetic rods stay on, the print will look horrible and the printer will sound like an old Lada engine on the highway trying to overtake a Lamborghini.
But in both Prusa Slicer and Super Slicer, I use 5500 mm/s acceleration and 25 mm/s jerk, with absolutely no issues. No thrown magnetic rods and great print quality. So great in fact, that I use these settings for precision prints too. Only for small figurines (less than 5cm height) will I lower acceleration to 2500 mm/s and jerk to 15 mm/s.
And yes, those differences in acceleration and jerk DOES have an impact in print speed too, to the benefit of Prusa Slicer / Super Slicer.
Currently I'm speed capped by the volumetric melting speed (mm3/s), and I can only go up to 10 mm3/s. That's horrible - but that's where FLSun Super Racer has an advantage with its improved hotend.
Excellent information. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video! Do you have a profile that you have done better with? A video explaining that would be great!
I managed to get mine from FLSUN for under £300. I think it needs a few tweaks to print at higher speeds, better cooling fans and cooling ducts. Would be interesting to see one with klipper and what speeds it can handle. And still get good quality prints.
Do you think that what fixed the ghosting was the belt tuning or also reducing the speed ?
I believe the textured glass beds are screen printed
I put a few drops of water on the edges of the print and a couple of minutes later the print releases and I just soak up the water drops with a kitchen towel
Interesting. I will have to try it.
Good grief. I didn't realize the Super Racer was THAT big... At one time I was considering a FLSun delta but the build surface area was the drawback. Went with a Artillery X2 instead. It's got one of the drawbacks this printer has - the glass print bed isn't removable, and I found that if you try to use isopropyl alcohol to clean it, you will damage it. I think this is true for all of the beds that are made like this.
I just use water and I also used a bit of DimaFix for one tricky print. Then make sure you let it cool off complete. With that work flow I love the surface.
@@MakeWithTech For my Artillery X2 I ended up clipping another bed on top of the installed one. Currently using 300x300mm sheets of glass (actually 2mm mirrors from IKEA, which are about $6 for a box of four). I want to eventually try a 310x310 sheet of garolite or G10. The mirror requires glue stick, I've gotten used to this from my first printer. In between prints I spritz some IPA on the bed - it dissolves the glue stick and I spread it around. I suppose this wouldn't work with the Super Racer - it doesn't look like it's possible to clip another bed on top of the present one.
Have you got a chance to test the Klipper config and have you used a magnetic print sheet ?
can you please do a calibration vidio for these i have a q5 and it prints o.k. but needs calibrating for extrusion and i swear by your ender 3 calibrator vids but i cannot find any for delta that make sence to me.
I really want to give this printer a chance simply because of the long term results, Every creality printer i ever bought it was always known that a good majority would be replaced with better parts ex extruder,hotend, ptfe tube, so i figure if i am already expecting these upgrades and because i plan on using octoprint with it i can change anything from my phone and i hightly recommend looking at a few videos were any old laptop,cellphone, etc can be used to run octoprint which is WAY better
The belt tuning idea is useful, but 60Hz seems too slack for an Ender 3. I've no idea what it should be, but mine is somewhere around 320Hz not sure if that is too tight, but so far, so good. Any idea as to the 'best' settings?
Trial, test, adjust
im very new to this i do have a 3d printer havnt used it yet but how do i transfere a download project onto freeCAD onto the 3d printer will print it
So, if i understand it correctly it's fast but laks quality. I'm working with a Ender3 v2 now and have excellent quality prints. It takes time but the prints are great. I was thinking about buying one of these Delta printers but i guess it's better to wait until they sort out the problems with quality at higher speed. Great video, i love watching your videos. Somehow your way of talking about stuff makes me actually listen without losing intrest in what you are talking about. A lot of videos from others are ok, but somewhere along what they are talking about i loose intrest because of they way they present it. Maybe i should not ask but , are you a Rabbi? That would explain a lot.
Thanks for the comment.
At Ender 3 speeds this printer with a properly tuned profile and reduced acceleration settings should produce prints as good as the Ender 3. But it will take some work.
The advantage is that is very fast for prototypes and other prints where minor surface defects will have not impact. Then slow it down to print your prints that need to be pretty.
I am not a member of clergy just a regular guy.
can you please re-review high speed printing with CHT nozzles and a silicone jacket ?
Liked new sub
I have a super racer and it prints really well up to around 10 CM height, after which the nozzle starts scraping the top of prints, getting louder with each layer, until eventually, it knocks the print off of the build plate. This happens with the default settings and I've tried zhop set to 1 mm, combing on and off, extrusion set to 80% but it still scrapes and knocks off prints.
Can you please advise?
Could you solve it? It happens to me sometimes at any height, I think it's because it moves so quickly and the filament melts and loses its shape and when it dries somewhere else the nozzle ends up dragging it and throwing the piece away.
@@facundovalenzuela5651 not much improvement. It's due to a cooling issue. The freshly printed area curls up, especially infill which then drags the nozzle. It gets worse with increasing speed. Reduce infill and wall speed to 80 max.
Or return if you can get your money back.
The installed fans are very under sized. I had to buy and splice 5015 fans. I had to print and install brackets for them. Then I had to print and install different fan ducts. That has reduced the issue but not completely eliminated it.
With the amount of time and money spent I should have bought a Bambu carbon.
Most of the time I end up working on the printer rather than 3d printing.
Most of these TH-camrs get compensated in some way for reviewing these products and don't like to talk about these gotcha issues. Then we get stuck with these printers.
Deltas are cool
Dr Vax talks about the Delta variant 😂
Cute. Unfortunately TH-cam did not like the DrVax persona. So I had to change with the times. P.S. My email associated with the channel is still drvax@
The mat from the ender 3/5 is 235 not 220
Your are correct. Thanks for the correction.
The stepper motors are on the top of the printer not on the bottom
You are correct. You assemble it upside down and then flip it. I forgot. Thanks for the correction.
I've had this printer for a few months now and have nothing but problems with it. Printing a good first layer seems impossible with this printer. Tried everything. Belts adjusted properly etc etc. Have compiled a Marlin myself which can perform the most extensive bed mesh and still I can't get a good first layer that is level even with the most extensive G33 calibration. I have now solved it with the flow rate but unfortunately my first layer remains inconstant level. And that's just one of the many problems I have with this printer. I don't recommend this printer!
Try cleaning the bed while COLD with alcohol and applying a thin layer of Magigoo or Dimafix. I had the same bed type on a couple of other printers I have had for a while and this solved it.
As an alternative if you really do not like the bed stick a piece of BuildTak on top of the glass and relevel. I used this approach on plain glass beds with excellent success.
I wouldn’t dismiss the printer just because of bed issues. I have 14 3D printers from multiple vendors and the above two approaches have solved my bed problems.
I hope this helps.
@@MakeWithTech bed adhesion is not the problem. It's the constant height on the bed despite lots of extensive calibration and meshes. In some places too close to the bed and in some places too far away from the bed. It seems that the bed is too warped and the printer cannot compensate for these differences properly
There is a lazy way to get prints off of that textured glass like my Creality one. Just smack the print on the side. The shock will pop it right off most of the time.
Sound likely to break a fragile print. I'll stick with the fan or freezer. Both work perfectly with less violence. :-)
We will learn that it doesn't work. how bout that?