Airbrushing 101 Spraying Tamiya Acrylics Part 1: The Very Basics
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- Tamiya acrylics are considered one of the best paint lines in modern modeling. Highly adaptable, readily available and affordable, they make up the bulk of all acrylics purchased.
In this video we test drive Tamiya acrylics at a basic level try out their flat, semigloss and gloss color before moving on to exploring the many further possibilities and techniques of this very popular paint.
Perfect for the beginning airbrusher or anyone looking to see if Tamiya acrylics are “the paint” for them.
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Thanks for the video; what kind of filter type are you using with your mask? A2P3? Is it better for paint safety an open environment with a blower/extractor fan or a paint booth? Thank you.
This was so useful. Thanks for going into everything in detail.
Thank you Mah-Reen. Respectful appreciation from a NAVAIRCREW vet. I'm re-discovering my boyhood hobby. This time with means to do it well. Still learning, your sage advise is great.
Welcome back!!
Tamiya, sprays so good re thinning, open a new pot and fill to the top with thinner, Perfect. Got that from Andy From Andy's Hobby Headquarters.
That works for the armor guys, but aircraft and especially the car guys (they can be pretty darn discerning) need the paint applied in multiple, rather thin, coats. I know Andy well, for like 16 years, really good guy. Lucky me, his shop s only about 15 minutes from my house. Then again, because its so close.....I'm always emptying my pockets there LOL. Anyway, he likes to get the painting done in as few coats as possible, so that's why he thins in the bottle. He's 95% armor so he can work with that. But as an aircraft guy, I am more picky with my paint work so I go about 65-70% thinner to paint. Takes longer but gives a better and smoother finish, which to armor guys isn't necessarily what they are looking for..
Geez this guy all over the place, only could take it for 30 minutes
What stuff do you use for cleaning the airbrush in between every colorchange, and when you clean up your airbrush? Could you give us a link to something you do recomend?
I always use hardware store lacquer thinner. Both in between colors and for "big time" airbrush cleaning. Kleen Strip is available at all the big box places and walmart too. What you DO NOT want is the "earth friendly" lacquer thinner....it is terrible and will not clean. I also will, for acrylics, sometimes use 99% IPA alcohol between colors. I paint a lot, real lot. I do one tear down on the brush a year, more out of habit than necessity. By doing proper thinning (1:1 isn't really thin enough) and taking the needle out evry once in a while, the airbrush should hardly ever need to be taken apart. Here is Part 1 on airbrush cleaning and care, there is also a part 2. Have fun! th-cam.com/video/dph9fZUi_fs/w-d-xo.html
I never considered polishing the plastic before applying primer. I will definetly try this approach with my next aircraft kit with a natural metal finish.
Just don't forget to make sure the oils in the polish are cleaned off. Otherwise you may have adherence issues with the primer.
Thanks for the info polishing before painting.
Have you ever used Stynelrez Primer? They are incredible on military craft and will not hide details.
Yes I did. I liked it but took too much pressure to spray. I almost exclusively use Mr. Surfacer 1500 now.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 I thin mine 50/50 with Ultimate Airbrush Thinner and Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner works too. I use a .5 tip.
Dont forget to protect paint in betweencoats usung hairspray effect
Thank you for taking the time to record, edit and upload the videos.
With the gloss, you can get rid of some that orange peel by spraying a coat of MLT over the gloss, after the gloss had some time to dry, about 10 to 15 minutes. The MLT will melt the surface and level out again.
Hi Matthew. I have found that waiting about 2 minutes or slightly less is more effective and doesn't risk having runs. Its best to get that tamed while the paint/gloss is still "receptive" to the MLT and hasn't got the dry barrier started yet. Much of the orange peel that people encounter is the result of improper thinning, so I always advise that wet coats with well-thinned gloss is the best way to avoid orange peel.
I strongly don't recommend using the Novus clean and shine before priming it leaves a film
It does a good job of cleaning the remnant polish film off. I then wipe it with alcohol or just water with a tad of Dawn. But I have also forgotten and primed directly over the Clean n Shine and the primer (Mr. Surfacer 1500) has always been able to break it down and stick flawlessly.
THANK YOU for sharing. Getting back into it after 20+ yrs off. Your demo IPA vs others super helpful !!
I've learnt so much from this video as a airbrush beginner. Always revisiting it for tips. Thank you sir!
GODBLESS.😊
👍👍👍👍👍
amazing to see your video thank you for the hard work :)
Thanks for this video. Wasn't happy with my airbrush results. Used you mixing ratio and thinner and made a big difference.
Glad it helped!
I really enjoyed your series. I was having problems painting and I took your advice to move from Vallejo paints to Tamiya. I'm glad you did. I couldn't get the Vallejo stuff to work right at all. And the Tamiya went on smooth without any problems on the first try.
Thanks for the advice.
Marcus
Glad I could help Marcus. Not sure what you thinned it with, but the Tamiya paints love lacquer thinner (Mr. Leveling Thinner, Tamiya lacquer thinner...just not the hardware store stuff). Hardware grade is for cleaning but terrible for general painting in the sense it can really mar the plastic. Hang on to the Vallejo paints though, you'll find that it is still very good for brush/hand painting.
What is the best way to apply a gloss coat on an aerobatic aircraft? I tried using X-22 thinned with X-20A 2 parts thinner 1 part clear. Ive had a hard time getting that really shiny look and even coats any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Doug, thanks for the question. X22 is a good gloss. The trick is to not use X20A. I use Mr. Leveling Thinner with X22 at a rate of 2 thinner to 1 gloss. First a light coat for tack. Then a wet coat (I slant the view so I can see it look wet when coating. Then within a minute or so, apply a dusting coat of straight Thinner over the gloss. Protect from wind and dust. Walk away and come back in 30 minutes you'll be happy. Also, another good product is Alclad AquaGloss (looks white like milk). It is the only good gloss that Alclad makes. Water based. Dont shake and do not thin. Just pout it in, tack coat, then hose it on. It takes a few hours to get good and hard but is nice and glossy. Its also tougher than X22. If you have good brushes and a good hand, you can hand brush it too. Just make sure to clean the airbrush with lots of water quickly....it dries like glue.
for airbrushing whats the minimum recomended PSI for the tamiya paints?
It will depend on what you are doing. If you are doing up close fine detail, with paint thinned around 2.5 thinner to 1 paint (or thinner than that) I sometimes go as low as 7 psi. For more general work, I thin about 1.5 thinner to 1 paint, maybe 2 to 1 even, and at about 15-18 psi seems to work. Remember now, I live in the desert so you may need to make a little adjustment, but this is a good starting point. These are also based on using a lacquer thinner (I don't like X20A). Tamiya makes a good lacquer thinner but I prefer Mr. Leveling Thinner (the yellow label). Many use 1:1 ratio make I don't like it because the paint comes on too thick looking and its tougher to keep the airbrush clean at such a density.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 thanks
Nice idea, polishing! 👍
U cant beat mr color leveling
Really enjoying the series as i`ve just started air brushing myself after years of expensive rattle cans and swearing when attempting to brush paint thanks again.
BTW have you ever used depersonalized alcohol? ;) i hear its next best to the denatured stuff. That`s all i got haha
Depersonalized as in drinkable? Oh I have a couple favorites LOL
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 haha :)
Can you paint in the house without fumigating yourself, or do you need an exhaust fan?
Thank you.
I work in the garage. Usually with the door open to the outside. Too much will to live than to die young from paint.😁
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 OK thank you.
In your opinion, what is the best and 2nd best thinner to use with Tamiya acrylic paints? Have you ever used the Tamiya dry retarder? Do you thin when you brush paint Tamiya? Finally, do you always prime before painting plastic? Really enjoy your videos.
Hi David.
I like Mr. Leveling Thinner (make sure you see the word "Leveling" on the label---many people buy the regular thinner by accident) as my number 1. It dries to the touch fast, but continues to level slowly as it cures later. I live in the desert so it happens pretty quick, if you live in a humid climate it may be a little longer. I usually can mask it in 15 to 20 minutes. Also I like as number 2 Tamiya Lacquer Thinner (yellow Top). It is far better than X20A, but not quite as good as Mr. Leveling Thinner. In both cases, I thin about 1.5 to 1 or 2 to 1 (thinner to paint). I go over several light coats, and on the final coat I quickly give a dusting of straight thinner over the paint (within a minute or so of painting) and it works wonderfully.
The Tamiya Retarder is useful if you want super slow drying, or you have a buildup problem on the needle. It is pretty concentrated stuff so only about 1 drop to 10 or 15 of paint is needed.
I don't brush paint much, except small areas and I do that with Vallejo, MMP and Mig Ammo...whichever color I happen to have. Tamiya is not really easy to brush paint with but some say that adding retarder or thinner helps. Being that I don't brush paint with it, I can't offer any useful advice on that.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 Thanks for all the great and helpful info. What are your 2 or 3 favorite primers to use with Tamiya paints? What respirator do you use when you airbrush (brand/model)? When you brush paint small areas with Vallejo Model Color, do you thin it at all, and if so, what do you use (read that Vallejo paint is NOT compatible with MC leveling thinner)?
@@davidlanham5914 I use Mr. Surfacer 1500 black 90% 0f the time. I like the effect you get marbling the coats over it, changing colors slightly as you go. And if you stay just a liiiitttllle bit away from the panel lines, you get the preshaded effect without it looking overdone. If I were to pick another primer, I would go with Tamiya FINE primer. Comes in the rattlecan and I decant it purely to save paint. If you decant it, it thins with Mr. Leveling Thinner, or you can just dial up real high pressure and shoot it straight.
I wasted so much time watching you talk about gloves and other BS. I was looking for a quick video of thinning Tamiya acrylic. Stop rambling ….
Good info if you can get thru his rambling