I’ve been watching lots of tutorials but this a gem! So much for the “quick overview”, it’s a very informative and easy to watch video. It also makes me aware just how much has changed since I built my last model in 1989!
The most helpful guide I've seen so far that is easy to follow and gives a quick understanding on airbrushing technique, using different solvent based paints and their appropriate thinners to use and how to clean your airbrush.
They are superb at what they do - Ive since moved mainly to SMS and MRP lacquers, but still have a huge stock of Tamiya to get through and use them from time to time.
This is the most useful paint tutorial I’ve seen in a long time and solves a couple of problems I’ve been having with my spraying. I’ve just ordered the ink cups to do the premixing.
Just picked up two Tamiya kits today, after a 50 year break. Got an airbrush from Amazon coming, so this video will be interestign. Appreciate the content. Helps greatly.
@@beckersmodels Just looking at the paints in my first Tamiya model. It lists some tamiya LP paints, but mostly the X range paint. I've found Tamiya Lacquer paint equivalents for most of them, as I'm airbrushing. Do you think that's the right approach - ignore the X / XF tamiya paint, in favour of the equivalent LP range for airbrushing? I'm doing military aircraft / armour.
Very informative tips and clear to understand. I find with water based paints, cleaning the airbrush with warm water is simple and quick and wont harm seals. Cheers ⚓🇦🇺
Well, for me this has been a fantastic tutorial. Airbrushing has been my mountain - I am too scared to climb. Have the gear, but terrified. Consequently my stash grows, but nothing gets built. This was so informative for my level I can’t thank you enough 😃👍
Glad to help Bruce, I'm thinking of starting a series on airbrushing/painting/weathering so the more support I get, the more I'm likely to do it! Cheers Chris
@Bruce Soding - I'm right with ya! I've had my brand new, in the box, airbrush equipment for a year and a half and have never even opened the box. :( I originally bought it to paint the emblems on my car, but then changed cars before I could even try it. Now I'm starting to build my first model since I was a kid and thought it might be better to try airbrushing instead of using a regular paint brush, so here I am. LOL!
Thank you Chris this is a good techniques good tips man I never thought about dropping a couple of drops of lacquer thinner in there to lubricate the needle that's damned fine damn fine work
Thanks, that was helpful as always. That was the first time I have taken notes from a youtub video. It's shocking how much prices have gone up since last time I modeled. It's a good thing my kids are grown or I might be tempted to sell them.
Good stuff. Thanks! I normally use Tamiya's X/XF "acrylics" but recently purchased some of the "new formula" Gunze/Mr. Hobby Aqueous paints (H series). You're absolutely correct that the Mr. Color Leveling Thinner (lacquer based) works incredibly well with them, even though Mr. Hobby also makes their own dedicated Aqueous thinner. My x20a Tamiya thinner now sits quite lonely on the other side of my bench.
@@beckersmodels I hear it is! Does your black base/hairspray vid. cover that or are you going to go more in depth in a future vid? I'll check out the one I just mentioned above and thanks again!
Glad it helped - I'm thinking of spinning out a separate video on paint chemistry alone - helps to clear up some myths and go over the particulars of each paint type a bit more thoroughly. Cheers Chris
Thank you sir. I have been making my own thinner (out of necessity) a 300ml batch with 100% IPA 1part Distilled water 2 parts 10ml of Tamiya paint retarder & 15mil of liquitex flow aid. I have have very good results. I’m just coming back from a break in the hobby after building a few models during the pandemic. I will be using Mr Hobby levelling thinner when I can. I also have been using General purpose thinners for my clean up. I’m still relatively new to airbrush. Awesome video. I would like to see a video on AK Interactive Metals. Even after two weeks it still rubbed off. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻🙃🙃
Thats a good formula for thinner - i need to experiment with some flow aid particularly when the temperature goes north. Yes the AK stuff isnt as robust as others, much prefer the MRP and even old alclad still...cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels I live in the tropical Top End so I know all about trying too keep paint flowing. The way some people talked up (flory cough models cough& others)AK we were led to believe it was tuff & could be handed to some extent. I ended having to seal the paint up with a clear coat after multiple touch ups. I thought I was stuffing something up. It’s just not what we are lead to believe.
It seems others have found that Vellajo's Air paints can be airbrushed very well just different than other paints. The key seems to be having to use a nozzle much larger than you normally would use.
@@beckersmodels I used to use lacquers a lot and still prefer them but in my current modeling space I don't have the ventilation that would let me use them so I'm experimenting with water based acrylics. Thanks for the videos. I'll have to check out more of them. Cheer, R.E.
Good video for those of us who are just starting out in this hobby. I congratulate you on that. I have a question. If I use a tamiya xf paint and I use lacquer thinner, what product do I have to use to clean the airbrush? Thank you and congratulations.
Great video! Two doubts: 1. The safety mask is always suggested to use in all the phases (coating/ cleaning) or in a specific phase? 2. In case of acrylic paint and X20 thinner is the mask needed and what is the mixing ratio thinner/paint? Thanks
I use the safety mask whenever I have anything lacquer or solvent based open, cleaning or painting. For acrylic paint, the X20A thinner is fairly benign in comparison, but still I would keep it on when spraying. Start with 50/50 or 60/40 (thinner to paint) and go from there...cheers Chris
Thanks for this.... I'm trying to get over my fear of using lacquer paints. The first time I used one ( LP-41 Mica Blue for my Subaru Impreza model kit ) I forgot to put the cap on the airbrush cup and I got it all over my airbrush haha, was such a mess to clean up. The whole garage stunk of Tamiya lacquer thinner, silly me shoulda cleaned it outside I think haha.
great tutorial thanks for sharing :0) for my paint thining normaly i use spoons mostly i use ak real color 1 part paint and 3 parts thinner and the results are ok with 0.2 H&S airbrush and i can contol eazy
Thank you for this very helpful video. For your brush painting, which of these paints do you primarily use, and do you thin the paint or use straight out of the bottle? Sorry if I missed it, but at what pressure do you tend to spray Tamiya, and do you get much tip-dry when you thin 1:1 with the leveling thinner?
hi David, for brush painting I mainly use Lifecolor and sometimes Vallejo acrylics, although I will use the oil paints for other effects. I normally thin with some water on a wet palette or straight out of the bottle. for the Tamiya, I spray at around 15-20PSI, as for tip dry, no problem with the levellling thinner, until it gets very hot here - say above 30C, then I usually don't airbrush and wait for it to cool down. hope that helps, cheers Chris
Excellent video and some great comments as i have been getting into lacquers lately (AK real colors and Mr. Color) ive often been confused by whether to go by 3 to 1 type mixing or 60/40 (or any number) ive been kinda sticking to doing it by drops lately but kind of a pain for bigger jobs
This was a really nice presentation; however, it would be nice if you would have a link to each piece of equipment/tool that you mention in the video. Thank you.
Hello Friends, I'm coming back to scale model after 20~30 years and I was wondering which kind of airbrush I should buy to get back in business. Any ideas for a 100 euros ~ 120 max budget including air compressor? I don't mind buying it second hand. all the best, cheers. And thanks for the channel Mr Becker
I recently bought tamiya blue(non glossy) to paint a figure. I don’t have a air gun so I hand painted it when I did it came out really glossy! Any tips on what I should do or work paints I should buy to only have straight matte paint only bc tht is what I’m going for idk what to do
Brilliant, love it!. Gosh you cleared my mind and I now feel compelled to try 😊 I mean without paint what is the model?? Maybe you shouldn’t be next door as I can’t see me giving you any peace?! Bob England
I usually prime with Stynlrez/One Shot, which you hose on with the biggest airbrush you've got at 30+ psi. But I also use lacquer primers like Mr Surfacer 1200 or 1500, thinned with Mr levelling thinner at least 50%, sometimes 70% thinner, using my H&S Evolution with a 0.2 needle at around 15psi. Hope that helps?
Really good tutorial, thanks. At 19.46 you said you would do a 2 to 1 ratio, you added 6 drops of thinner and 2 drops of paint, wouldn't that be 3 to 1?
This is by far the best intro video to painting I've seen, well done and very informative! Did you include the link to that Will Patterson video? I may have missed it and would like to learn about methods of layering different types of paint
Thats the way all the videos must be!!! Simple and highly educational !!!! Well done my friend, please allow me a question : if i pre mix and store at a 30ml bottle 10ml mr color lacquer combined with 20ml mr levelling thinner(or mr color thinner) will this last by time or will cause the color any bad reactions ? I want my colors pre mixed, just like my MRP, thats why i m trying to find a similar formula/way to have my mr color lacquers available for airbrushing in a similar way!
You're very welcome! On premixing, that would be fine if for a current project, say lasting a few weeks of months, but after that you will get a change in weather and other factors that can't be controlled. I just keep all my Tamiya and other unthinned lacquer paints in their sealed glass jars, and mix/thin when required - I may make up a small mix in a spare glass bottle (I keep the Tamiya jars when finished and clean them out) but only for a large project that I know I'm just about to paint. Cheers, Chris
I'm about to purchase my first complete airbrush kit, and have already wondered about the puzzle of paint types and thinners. This has really helped a lot, thanks. Can I ask, why are Humbrol enamel paints less suitable for airbrushing?
Glad it helped Arnie - with regard to enamel Humbrols, I dont have any experience with them, and don't know many modellers who use them through an airbrush. It can be done of course, but I think the disadvantages of enamels are too much compared to lacquer paints. Cheers Chris
Amazingly useful video, thank you! If I'm using Tamiya acrylics at room temperature how long would you say I need to wait after painting to apply clear coat? How long can I wait before masking off?
Thanks Mike. You probably only need to wait an hour or so with acrylics - depends on your thinner - generally with a lacquer thinner it would less than that. For masking, you can do pretty much do it straight away if you destick your tape (i.e apply the masking tape to the back of your hand and pull it off a couple times to make it less tacky) and when removing masking, pull it away from the direction of the tape, dont just yank it off! Cheers, Chris
Absolutely loved this content! Thank you for sharing. As I am getting back into this hobby after 30 years, there have been so many changes, upgrades, and just better materials all of the way around. I'm curious to know, if you know why Tamiya sells the acrylic thinner at all? If the lacquer is "unicorn tears" why not just omit the crap that doesn't work well?
I have a model sprayed with Pledge, [ too dull ] then with a 'Tamiya X22, x Tamiya X20 A 50 / 50' mix, still to dull and soft. Can I spray a mix of Mr Color Levelling Thinner and X22 over to make a hard polishable finish?
Hi Anthony, since all of those elements are acrylics, it should be fine to put a lacquer utility gloss like X22/MLT over the top. My method is a light coat first, then wet, then mist straight Mr Levelling Thinner (MLT) over the top a few minutes after the wet coat.
Thank you very much, it was very informative. I am just getting back into modeling after a 40 year layoff. I think the tattoo cups and mini pipettes is genius. Is it possible to use a lacquer primer, and painting an acrylic paint over it?
Lacquer primer with acrylic over the top is no problem at all, in fact the Mr Surfacer lacquer series of primers is a go to for most serious modellers, then either lacquer or acrylic over the top. Its a rock hard smooth primer, either in rattle can or bottle (thin it with Mr Levelling Thinner) in various colors (black/white/grey) Cheers Chris
I know I'm two years late to this, but it's an excellent video. Just out of curiosity, how would I go about cleaning the pipettes and mixing cups for reuse?
I just use a cotton bud/Qtip soaked in lacquer thinner to clean out the mixing cups, I usually throw the tiny pipettes after a couple of uses, they start to deteriorate, while the big ones last a lot longer, I usually flush them a bit with the lacquer thinner too...
Good vid. Very informative. Except you mention that the different.paints use different pigments. This is false. Pigment (the stuff that gives you your color) doesn't change. If you are using ultramarine blue. You are using the same pigment wether you are using oils, acrylic, encaustic (hot wax being the vehicle and binder), watercolor (gum Arabic is the vehicle/binder here) or any other boxers including egg yolks or geletin. That being said, some pigments are not well suited for certain binding agents. Those pigments then are not used with said binders.
Sorry Ricky I don't, they're the Ultimate Modelling Products thinners bottles, Im sure there's something available out there thats similar. I found a couple results on google searching "plastic dispenser with pourer OR nozzle OR lid" - my local car parts place, Super Cheap Auto sells a generic GPI Thinner 500ml bottle with a similar lid that looks very similar. Hope that helps - not sure where your located to steer you in the right direction? Cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels I live in Germany and looked at some modeling shops but they are all these squeezy bottles. Also these laquer thinners melt away plastic so they need to have the right material too. Pretty tough to find honestly.
Damn it....its not so much an issue with thee actual painting, its the issue with having keeping specs of dust,lint,hair out of the paint job. Last night I shot a 67 Mustang Fastback with Tamiya LP Pure White, and a few drops of pure blue . I thought I was careful but as hard as I tried to be careful, I STILL ended up with a few specks of whatever in my paint. So......today , I sanded the surfaces down, removing the debris and Im about to shoot a 2nd round. This time I am painting with no shirt on and a shower cap on my head . It is soooooo frustrating trying your best to do an exceptable job and flicking Murphys Law bites you in thee ASS ! LOL .Anyway, I'm really excited about Tamiya's lacquer paint line. I hope the add more colors to their line up. I would LOVE for them to offer a Metalizer line like Testors did . I like the idea of being able to buff their paints. Does anyone know of a comparable line of metallic paints other then Alclad that come in smaller bottles and a little more affordable ?
Not sure on that one, but for a 1/24 scale car I would say at least three or four? Depending on number of coats? How long is a piece of string? You can really really thin the LP paint far....Cheers Chris
Hmmm…. I have had absolutely beautiful results airbrushing Tester’s enamel paints. I suspect Humbrol can be airbrushed as well. I realize paints can be fickle, and people have varying success. Just not sure I would agree that enamels aren’t suitable for airbrushing.
Yeah I was a bit dismissive of enamel paints in this video, wish I hadn't of said that, plenty of modellers have used enamels successfully in the past. For mind though, for a rank beginner acrylics and lacquers have more friendliness straight out of the pot...thanks for your comment, cheers Chris
I WISH another company would pick up the Testors Metalizer line. I use aluminum on every kit. The buffing features makes them great to work with. AlCLAD at $10. per bottle gets too expensive.
I just finished painting the under side of my jet and discovered some areas were smooth and some were rough. My airbrush is Iwata eclipse hp-cs with .5 nozzle//needle,20psi and used xf-83 thinned with x-20a and 3" to "4 from the model. Any idea what is the problem? I also just brought some Mr. color thinner.
Its just the generic hardware thinner you can buy in bulk, which is very "hot" compared to hobby lacquer thinners that include other additives and flow improvers. I usually keep two bottles on my bench with each noted differently - also the hobby ones (MLT or yellow cap Tamiya) have a slight perfume scent added to help you! Cheers Chris
I'm just getting back into making models and have started using a airbrush for the first time. I am finding that the paint I have put on comes off very easy as well the decal solvent faded after I used it. What am I doing wrong?. I used Tamiya paint
Are you putting down a primer? If you're using Tamiya paint straight on to plastic, thinning with a lacquer thinner instead of their X-20A acrylic thinner will give it more bite, or put primer down first. Cheers Chris
My most common mistake using Tamiya Acrylics is I apply to much of a heavy first coat. Or I apply to heavy of coats in general. Been really practicing being patient and do light multiple coats.
The Flory method is to just hose it on at 30PSI! But yes, a light coat with slightly thicker paint (50/50) seems to work best particularly if not using primer, then layer on lighter coats at thinner ratios. Its a pretty resilient paint once you find that sweet spot.
@@beckersmodels That was me during my first kit. 😂I've been taking time to prime my pieces now days. Do you tend to use a 0.3 needle most the time when painting acrylic/lacquer colors? I've only been using my 0.5 needle for priming and that's about it. Even clear/flat coating with an acrylic I use a 0.3. Even for larger pieces.
I'm building a 3D printed plastic 1/16 RC tank and I'm wondering if I can use Tamiya XF acrylic paints (round bottle) for the lower hull, or should I use LP instead. Will LP have a significant difference against XF series in terms of protection from scratches, paint durability ?
Depends what you thin the XF paint with - if you use lacquer thinner (like Mr Levelling Thinner, which is what I use to thin XF paints) it will be more durable than using X-20A. I use X-20A specifically for hairspray technique, since its not very durable! hope that helps, cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels Thanks Chris for your reply. I have Lacquer Thinner retarder type, will use this one then. ------------ PS: You don't switch to LP paints completely, because XF can be thinned with both type of thinners (X20A and Lacquer Thinner) ? ------------ If we thin both paints type (XF and LP) with Lacquer Thinner will there be any difference between those paints then ?
Awesome content. I bought an airbrush system a while ago to paint my car emblems, but never got a chance to do it. I picked up a Tamiya F-14D Tomcat model and was thinking maybe I should use the airbrush system to paint it. My question for you...two actually...is there any way to get the Tamiya AS paint in a "non-spray can" format? One of the ones I need is "Light Ghost Gray" (AS-26), however, I would rather have it in a bottle instead of a spray can, even if I was going to brush it on. Is there any way to find out what the content is of "Light Ghost Gray" so I could mix it myself and use the airbrush instead? Or do you just use other paints and make it as "close as you can" to that "specialized" color? Any help would be truly appreciated. Thank you again for the content!
Well, I did find an answer to my questions actually...sort of. I found out that Tamiya has an LP lineup of paints and most of those correspond to the paints in the spray cans. :-) So, I was able to find what I needed in bottle form and can use those instead of the spray cans. Wish I realized that before I actually purchased the four spray cans I needed. Ugggh. LOL!
I was just about to say that about the LP paints! You can actually decant the AS cans however, go to Eric Galliers Manscale Models page, he shows you how to do it with a pipette: facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=622944057881952&external_log_id=d8207987-a89e-4a9c-825a-4b00425c7d02&q=manscale%20models
@@beckersmodels Holy crap! That is awesome! I definitely saved that one. Thank you so much! I was lucky and my order wasn't filled yet, so I "returned" my four spray cans and bought the for corresponding LP paints instead. ;-) Now I'm ordering and downloading books on beginner airbrushing to try and learn my way around this thing. Plus, viewing your great videos on top of it, which are better than books, but it doesn't hurt to have multiple resources. :) Thanks again for the info!
I'm sorry, but to briefly speak about paint chemistry, or more specifically, thinner chemistry. Mr. Color Levelling Thinner (MCLT) is a water soluble alcohol based thinner, just as is IPA. Granted, MCLT primarily uses Ethanol, with Methanol and at least two other alcohols, it shouldn't matter to the paint finish as there is no appreciable difference in the vapor pressure of IPA or Ethanol. If you are finding a difference, then it is most likely due to the excipient in the IPA, which may not be as pure as advertised on the label. Anyway, good video, thank you.
Thanks for your insight - its hard to make an informative video without overloading on information, or dumbing it down so much you get things wrong, just for the sake of clarity. Cheers, Chris
@@beckersmodels Great watching your videos, very informative. I've only started modelling again after being away from it for years. Trying to get my airbrush skills back up to scratch again is taking time.
Hi Eric, its the Bronco 1/32 (yes 1/32!) cheap and nasty T-34/85 kit, I managed to get a couple which I use only as paint mules, they live above my bench. I'm not sure about the best T-34 kit, I've built the 1/48 Hobby Boss ones a couple times, they are ok. The ancient Tamiya one is pretty bad and very expensive for what you get. The AFV Club version seems okay, as does the various Dragons (but I find them expensive and the instructions a handful to read properly) The Miniart ones are very complex and a little daunting for a beginner, while the Academy/Airfix aren't too bad as a middle of the road option, and the Zvezda new tool T-34 looks good too. Hope that helps! Cheers Chris
Battery operated milk frother, the type that gives a fake cappuccino look? Use that for mixing your Tamiya/Mr Colour paints simple and cheap and a real game changer, well I found it to be.
@@beckersmodels bloody simple. I have a big Moccona Coffee jar next to me where I dump thinner, paint, cleaning stuff before it goes off to get properly disposed of I stick it in that turn it on for a couple of seconds then turn it off and it's clean enough for coffee .... other than the residue of chemicals
When I use three drops of lacquer mixed with 3 drops of leveling thinner at 20 PSI I run out of paint so quickly. I am surprised you could cover that much surface with it. Is there something I am missing?
Hi Ricky - I usually shoot at 15 PSI or so, and I'm only doing the lightest of coats. Play around with your trigger settings and how close you are from the surface to see how much paint is getting down - experiment with different mixes too - some paints are more opaque and have better coverage than others, depending on pigment (white/yellow are notorious for not having a lot of coverage). Hope that helps, cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels Thank you Chris. I actually tried LP-11 silver and Alclad II white so far. I will keep experimenting. Another question regarding lacquers. I heard in a lot of videos that it creates a bond with the plastic surface and bites into it. However I was able to scratch it off with a toothpick completely and expose the bare plastic again. Is there a need to sand the surface first? I haven't seen anyone do that for primers.
Ah yes that white won't go very far, unless you have a yellow undercoat or black at the very least. The best practice is to put down a primer first, I really prefer MR Surfacer or Stynlrez, it levels out everything - yes the lacquer will bond with the plastic, depending on how hot it is. The Tamiya lacquers are not as hot in my experience, but are very durable. I've removed lacquer paint with IPA and gotten back to bare plastic without marring the surface, but a good scrubbing is required!
@@beckersmodels Ok very interesting. So I need an undercoat before a primer? I thought that Alclad II is meant to be the first layer. Tamiya's manual always says lacquer first, then acrylics and then enamels. If I used Stynelrez I would not be able to put a lacquer on top from what I understood.
Most of the time yes, if you spray the first layer as a tack layer, then come back with another wetter layer, but it depends on the quality of the plastic/paints etc setup. I routinely just spray Tamiya acrylics and their lacquers into cockpit spaces without bothering with primer, if I havent added any extra details like metal wires etc. Cheers Chris
Using an alcohol based thinner like X-20A or similar less toxic solvents is fine for acrylics - it wont be as durable as lacquers, but will suffice for most work and can be sealed in with a lacquer clear to make it rock hard. Cheers Chris
Yep I clean them as I open up a new one. Ive had a few issues with these because of past very hot summers (44C plus) but generally they have been stable...cheers Chris
Hi Echo - no, I only use that for cleaning. I think its a false economy to use base household products - like Future etc - when finishing your models. The modelling thinners have extra chemicals like retardants and smoothing agents added to make the paint better. Cheers Chris
I cannot use *ANY* lacquer-based paint or thinner due to the horrible smell! Time code 8:17 makes my point for me. That plus the complaints from the wife...
Have you tried Hataka? Or Lifecolor (thin this with Vallejo airbrush cleaner in an absolutely clean airbrush thats never had Tamiya XF paints in it or any butanols)? They are the best alternatives as far as I know...
not quite. Yes its the binder that defines the paint type, but pigments are different across different types of paint - a lot of artist oils paints are natural, some are synthetic. I didnt want to confuse anyone any further, so hence just a surface level explanation.
@@beckersmodels yes, pigments are natural or synthetic, that is absolutely fine. But acrylic paints are not acrylic because pigment is acrylic. That is simply not true and it will cause further confusion.
Obviously I don't have a phd in chemistry like yourself,and maybe because English is my second language and you don't understand what I'm saying? Not all pigments are natural, a lot are synthetic. The medium is different to pigment....
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I’ve been watching lots of tutorials but this a gem! So much for the “quick overview”, it’s a very informative and easy to watch video. It also makes me aware just how much has changed since I built my last model in 1989!
Thanks Rod - hope it helps!
I'm in the same boat bro. It's been about 30 years for me too! I wish we had TH-cam back then.
Totally agree with you,😊👍👍👏👏
Straightforward no nonsense. After some reluctance to use laquer paints I now feel well informed and raring to go. Thanks a lot.
Excellent video with some great tips- thanks! 👍. I haven’t built a model since 1981, about to get back into it. Things have changed! Lol.
Glad it was helpful! Welcome back to our great hobby
Just keep up good work, excellent video helped me a lot. Doing hobbies since 1973 but there is always something to learn thanks to yu-tub.👍👍👏👏👏
Thanks, will do!
The most helpful guide I've seen so far that is easy to follow and gives a quick understanding on airbrushing technique, using different solvent based paints and their appropriate thinners to use and how to clean your airbrush.
Awesome, thank you!
Great channel, bud. I've been in love with Tamiya acrylics for years.......... now I know why !!!
They are superb at what they do - Ive since moved mainly to SMS and MRP lacquers, but still have a huge stock of Tamiya to get through and use them from time to time.
This is the most useful paint tutorial I’ve seen in a long time and solves a couple of problems I’ve been having with my spraying. I’ve just ordered the ink cups to do the premixing.
Glad to help Simon, feel free to ask away if you have any questions. Cheers Chris
That is very well explained. Thanks for helping demystify model paints for me. Peace from Sydney Australia
You're welcome mate!
That was incredibly helpful to me as a returner to the hobby and to someone who is a little hesitant about using the airbrush - thanks a million
You're very welcome, don't hesitate to ask questions, try out the Scale Model Critique Group, they thrive on questions...
Me too my friend. Just getting back to it myself, and find this video a tremendous help.
Very helpful, was looking into mixing Tamiya paints for my bike chips. many thanks
Just picked up two Tamiya kits today, after a 50 year break. Got an airbrush from Amazon coming, so this video will be interestign. Appreciate the content. Helps greatly.
You're very welcome, always happy to answer questions you might have, cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels Thanks. I have this week to discover the paints, and a week over Christmas to try it all out.
@@beckersmodels Just looking at the paints in my first Tamiya model. It lists some tamiya LP paints, but mostly the X range paint. I've found Tamiya Lacquer paint equivalents for most of them, as I'm airbrushing. Do you think that's the right approach - ignore the X / XF tamiya paint, in favour of the equivalent LP range for airbrushing? I'm doing military aircraft / armour.
Very informative tips and clear to understand. I find with water based paints, cleaning the airbrush with warm water is simple and quick and wont harm seals. Cheers ⚓🇦🇺
And ipa is also good and quite cheap to use it
Just discovered- probably saved me from making 20 hours worth of mistakes. Be my next TH-cam guru!
That was an instant subscribe. Very informative and concise. Just getting back into painting and airbrushing
Thanks for the sub - I'm starting an airbrushing course here on YT very soon, stay tuned, cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels great. Looking forward to it
Thanks for sharing, a great video.
Glad you enjoyed it - hope to do a follow up soon..
Well, for me this has been a fantastic tutorial. Airbrushing has been my mountain - I am too scared to climb. Have the gear, but terrified. Consequently my stash grows, but nothing gets built. This was so informative for my level I can’t thank you enough 😃👍
Glad to help Bruce, I'm thinking of starting a series on airbrushing/painting/weathering so the more support I get, the more I'm likely to do it! Cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels that would be fantastic 😃
@Bruce Soding - I'm right with ya! I've had my brand new, in the box, airbrush equipment for a year and a half and have never even opened the box. :( I originally bought it to paint the emblems on my car, but then changed cars before I could even try it. Now I'm starting to build my first model since I was a kid and thought it might be better to try airbrushing instead of using a regular paint brush, so here I am. LOL!
Just got my first airbrush kit done many models but never airbrush thanks for your info
Thanks alot~~~
This video is very very helpful for me.
Thank you again.🙏🙏✌️✌️☺️😊
Most welcome 😊
Great video - thank you for sharing!!
Thanks - you're welcome! Cheers Chris
Thank you Chris this is a good techniques good tips man I never thought about dropping a couple of drops of lacquer thinner in there to lubricate the needle that's damned fine damn fine work
No worries Rick, I hope to have some more technique videos up later on. Cheers Chris
Thanks, that was helpful as always. That was the first time I have taken notes from a youtub video. It's shocking how much prices have gone up since last time I modeled. It's a good thing my kids are grown or I might be tempted to sell them.
Thats great to know Robert, I appreciate your comments as always - and yes prices have gone up tremendously!
Good stuff. Thanks! I normally use Tamiya's X/XF "acrylics" but recently purchased some of the "new formula" Gunze/Mr. Hobby Aqueous paints (H series). You're absolutely correct that the Mr. Color Leveling Thinner (lacquer based) works incredibly well with them, even though Mr. Hobby also makes their own dedicated Aqueous thinner. My x20a Tamiya thinner now sits quite lonely on the other side of my bench.
X20A is great for heavy duty hairspray technique!
@@beckersmodels I hear it is! Does your black base/hairspray vid. cover that or are you going to go more in depth in a future vid? I'll check out the one I just mentioned above and thanks again!
Check out my U boat video which combines black basing and hairspray. I will be going into it more in a later video for sure. Cheers Chris
Great video! Just what I needed!
Glad it helped - I'm thinking of spinning out a separate video on paint chemistry alone - helps to clear up some myths and go over the particulars of each paint type a bit more thoroughly. Cheers Chris
Thank you sir. I have been making my own thinner (out of necessity) a 300ml batch with 100% IPA 1part Distilled water 2 parts 10ml of Tamiya paint retarder & 15mil of liquitex flow aid. I have have very good results. I’m just coming back from a break in the hobby after building a few models during the pandemic. I will be using Mr Hobby levelling thinner when I can. I also have been using General purpose thinners for my clean up. I’m still relatively new to airbrush. Awesome video. I would like to see a video on AK Interactive Metals. Even after two weeks it still rubbed off. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻🙃🙃
Thats a good formula for thinner - i need to experiment with some flow aid particularly when the temperature goes north. Yes the AK stuff isnt as robust as others, much prefer the MRP and even old alclad still...cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels
I live in the tropical Top End so I know all about trying too keep paint flowing. The way some people talked up (flory cough models cough& others)AK we were led to believe it was tuff & could be handed to some extent. I ended having to seal the paint up with a clear coat after multiple touch ups. I thought I was stuffing something up.
It’s just not what we are lead to believe.
It seems others have found that Vellajo's Air paints can be airbrushed very well just different than other paints. The key seems to be having to use a nozzle much larger than you normally would use.
I have heard that before, it also depends on your local humidity and other factors. Lacquers just seem to work better for me, Cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels I used to use lacquers a lot and still prefer them but in my current modeling space I don't have the ventilation that would let me use them so I'm experimenting with water based acrylics. Thanks for the videos. I'll have to check out more of them. Cheer, R.E.
I have learnt so much, thank you :)
Good video for those of us who are just starting out in this hobby. I congratulate you on that. I have a question. If I use a tamiya xf paint and I use lacquer thinner, what product do I have to use to clean the airbrush? Thank you and congratulations.
Humbrol enamel , it's been the best for air brush use all my life.
If it works for you, thats great!
Great video! Two doubts: 1. The safety mask is always suggested to use in all the phases (coating/ cleaning) or in a specific phase? 2. In case of acrylic paint and X20 thinner is the mask needed and what is the mixing ratio thinner/paint? Thanks
I use the safety mask whenever I have anything lacquer or solvent based open, cleaning or painting. For acrylic paint, the X20A thinner is fairly benign in comparison, but still I would keep it on when spraying. Start with 50/50 or 60/40 (thinner to paint) and go from there...cheers Chris
Thanks for this.... I'm trying to get over my fear of using lacquer paints. The first time I used one ( LP-41 Mica Blue for my Subaru Impreza model kit ) I forgot to put the cap on the airbrush cup and I got it all over my airbrush haha, was such a mess to clean up. The whole garage stunk of Tamiya lacquer thinner, silly me shoulda cleaned it outside I think haha.
Just take your time and use small amounts at first - get some eye droppers and just use a handful of drops! then build up from there....cheers Chris
great tutorial thanks for sharing :0) for my paint thining normaly i use spoons mostly i use ak real color 1 part paint and 3 parts thinner and the results are ok with 0.2 H&S airbrush and i can contol eazy
Thank you for this very helpful video. For your brush painting, which of these paints do you primarily use, and do you thin the paint or use straight out of the bottle? Sorry if I missed it, but at what pressure do you tend to spray Tamiya, and do you get much tip-dry when you thin 1:1 with the leveling thinner?
hi David, for brush painting I mainly use Lifecolor and sometimes Vallejo acrylics, although I will use the oil paints for other effects. I normally thin with some water on a wet palette or straight out of the bottle.
for the Tamiya, I spray at around 15-20PSI, as for tip dry, no problem with the levellling thinner, until it gets very hot here - say above 30C, then I usually don't airbrush and wait for it to cool down. hope that helps, cheers Chris
What’s the tip size on that? 0.2mm or 0.5mm?
Asking because my airbrush with 0.3mm at 20psi doesn’t shoot like that.
Awesome content! Thanks
Appreciate it!
Excellent video and some great comments as i have been getting into lacquers lately (AK real colors and Mr. Color) ive often been confused by whether to go by 3 to 1 type mixing or 60/40 (or any number) ive been kinda sticking to doing it by drops lately but kind of a pain for bigger jobs
You find the sweet spot?
This was a really nice presentation; however, it would be nice if you would have a link to each piece of equipment/tool that you mention in the video. Thank you.
Hello Friends, I'm coming back to scale model after 20~30 years and I was wondering which kind of airbrush I should buy to get back in business.
Any ideas for a 100 euros ~ 120 max budget including air compressor? I don't mind buying it second hand.
all the best, cheers. And thanks for the channel Mr Becker
I recently bought tamiya blue(non glossy) to paint a figure. I don’t have a air gun so I hand painted it when I did it came out really glossy! Any tips on what I should do or work paints I should buy to only have straight matte paint only bc tht is what I’m going for idk what to do
Brilliant, love it!. Gosh you cleared my mind and I now feel compelled to try 😊 I mean without paint what is the model??
Maybe you shouldn’t be next door as I can’t see me giving you any peace?!
Bob
England
Thank you! Cheers!
great video but you didnt say anything about priming? what do you use to prime, what ratio? tips and pressure? help me please
I usually prime with Stynlrez/One Shot, which you hose on with the biggest airbrush you've got at 30+ psi. But I also use lacquer primers like Mr Surfacer 1200 or 1500, thinned with Mr levelling thinner at least 50%, sometimes 70% thinner, using my H&S Evolution with a 0.2 needle at around 15psi. Hope that helps?
How often do you change the respirator fiter? Do you need to?
Really good tutorial, thanks. At 19.46 you said you would do a 2 to 1 ratio, you added 6 drops of thinner and 2 drops of paint, wouldn't that be 3 to 1?
I had a senior moment...
This is by far the best intro video to painting I've seen, well done and very informative! Did you include the link to that Will Patterson video? I may have missed it and would like to learn about methods of layering different types of paint
You're welcome, yes I've put the link in the description, cheers Chris
I do this after opening the paint tube put the lid back on then turn it upside down to help with trapped air
Thats the way all the videos must be!!! Simple and highly educational !!!! Well done my friend, please allow me a question : if i pre mix and store at a 30ml bottle 10ml mr color lacquer combined with 20ml mr levelling thinner(or mr color thinner) will this last by time or will cause the color any bad reactions ? I want my colors pre mixed, just like my MRP, thats why i m trying to find a similar formula/way to have my mr color lacquers available for airbrushing in a similar way!
You're very welcome! On premixing, that would be fine if for a current project, say lasting a few weeks of months, but after that you will get a change in weather and other factors that can't be controlled. I just keep all my Tamiya and other unthinned lacquer paints in their sealed glass jars, and mix/thin when required - I may make up a small mix in a spare glass bottle (I keep the Tamiya jars when finished and clean them out) but only for a large project that I know I'm just about to paint. Cheers, Chris
Excellent.
enamel and acrylic paints are waterproof?
I'm about to purchase my first complete airbrush kit, and have already wondered about the puzzle of paint types and thinners. This has really helped a lot, thanks. Can I ask, why are Humbrol enamel paints less suitable for airbrushing?
Glad it helped Arnie - with regard to enamel Humbrols, I dont have any experience with them, and don't know many modellers who use them through an airbrush. It can be done of course, but I think the disadvantages of enamels are too much compared to lacquer paints. Cheers Chris
Amazingly useful video, thank you! If I'm using Tamiya acrylics at room temperature how long would you say I need to wait after painting to apply clear coat? How long can I wait before masking off?
Thanks Mike. You probably only need to wait an hour or so with acrylics - depends on your thinner - generally with a lacquer thinner it would less than that. For masking, you can do pretty much do it straight away if you destick your tape (i.e apply the masking tape to the back of your hand and pull it off a couple times to make it less tacky) and when removing masking, pull it away from the direction of the tape, dont just yank it off! Cheers, Chris
Absolutely loved this content! Thank you for sharing. As I am getting back into this hobby after 30 years, there have been so many changes, upgrades, and just better materials all of the way around. I'm curious to know, if you know why Tamiya sells the acrylic thinner at all? If the lacquer is "unicorn tears" why not just omit the crap that doesn't work well?
I have a model sprayed with Pledge, [ too dull ] then with a 'Tamiya X22, x Tamiya X20 A 50 / 50' mix, still to dull and soft.
Can I spray a mix of Mr Color Levelling Thinner and X22 over to make a hard polishable finish?
Hi Anthony, since all of those elements are acrylics, it should be fine to put a lacquer utility gloss like X22/MLT over the top. My method is a light coat first, then wet, then mist straight Mr Levelling Thinner (MLT) over the top a few minutes after the wet coat.
Thank you very much, it was very informative. I am just getting back into modeling after a 40 year layoff. I think the tattoo cups and mini pipettes is genius. Is it possible to use a lacquer primer, and painting an acrylic paint over it?
Lacquer primer with acrylic over the top is no problem at all, in fact the Mr Surfacer lacquer series of primers is a go to for most serious modellers, then either lacquer or acrylic over the top. Its a rock hard smooth primer, either in rattle can or bottle (thin it with Mr Levelling Thinner) in various colors (black/white/grey) Cheers Chris
Can I use acetone to mix with my paint to spray 50/50 then normal solvent and water to wash the gun out
I know I'm two years late to this, but it's an excellent video. Just out of curiosity, how would I go about cleaning the pipettes and mixing cups for reuse?
I just use a cotton bud/Qtip soaked in lacquer thinner to clean out the mixing cups, I usually throw the tiny pipettes after a couple of uses, they start to deteriorate, while the big ones last a lot longer, I usually flush them a bit with the lacquer thinner too...
@@beckersmodels Thanks! I'll just have to look into grabbing some more pipettes then
Mate another Gem, with key intel that I require big time. oink, tony 7RAR
Thanks Tony, I'm hoping to follow this video up one day with a deeper dive into paint chemistry...cheers Chris
I. Miss homborol love tamya
Wow, that is a nice thin line you are getting with your airbrush. What airbrush and nozzel size are you using?
Thanks Alexander, its a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution with 0.2 needle. Cheers Chris
"You need a degree in chemistry to get started" TRUE! Lmao i literally said this out loud.
Well some folks think you need it, but its simple enough once you break it down....maybe? :D thanks for the comment Jack
Good vid. Very informative. Except you mention that the different.paints use different pigments. This is false.
Pigment (the stuff that gives you your color) doesn't change. If you are using ultramarine blue. You are using the same pigment wether you are using oils, acrylic, encaustic (hot wax being the vehicle and binder), watercolor (gum Arabic is the vehicle/binder here) or any other boxers including egg yolks or geletin.
That being said, some pigments are not well suited for certain binding agents. Those pigments then are not used with said binders.
Do you have a link for that dropper bottle you put the unicorn tears in? My bottles spill out too much every time. I need something more precise
Sorry Ricky I don't, they're the Ultimate Modelling Products thinners bottles, Im sure there's something available out there thats similar. I found a couple results on google searching "plastic dispenser with pourer OR nozzle OR lid" - my local car parts place, Super Cheap Auto sells a generic GPI Thinner 500ml bottle with a similar lid that looks very similar. Hope that helps - not sure where your located to steer you in the right direction? Cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels I live in Germany and looked at some modeling shops but they are all these squeezy bottles. Also these laquer thinners melt away plastic so they need to have the right material too. Pretty tough to find honestly.
Damn it....its not so much an issue with thee actual painting, its the issue with having keeping specs of dust,lint,hair out of the paint job. Last night I shot a 67 Mustang Fastback with Tamiya LP Pure White, and a few drops of pure blue .
I thought I was careful but as hard as I tried to be careful, I STILL ended up with a few specks of whatever in my paint.
So......today , I sanded the surfaces down, removing the debris and Im about to shoot a 2nd round. This time I am painting with no shirt on and a shower cap on my head . It is soooooo frustrating trying your best to do an exceptable job and flicking Murphys Law bites you in thee ASS ! LOL .Anyway, I'm really excited about Tamiya's lacquer paint line. I hope the add more colors to their line up. I would LOVE for them to offer a Metalizer line like Testors did .
I like the idea of being able to buff their paints. Does anyone know of a comparable line of metallic paints other then Alclad that come in smaller bottles and a little more affordable ?
You could try the Gunze Mr Metal Color line? Smaller bottles, can be both handpainted (and buffed) and sprayed..
and for how many car bodies scale 1/24 one tamiya LP jar do ?
Not sure on that one, but for a 1/24 scale car I would say at least three or four? Depending on number of coats? How long is a piece of string? You can really really thin the LP paint far....Cheers Chris
Thanks for your thoughtful replies. One of few.
So you use different kinds of solvent to different kind of paints?
Most of the time its just lacquer thinner but I'd use IPA or similar for some water based paints.
Hmmm…. I have had absolutely beautiful results airbrushing Tester’s enamel paints. I suspect Humbrol can be airbrushed as well. I realize paints can be fickle, and people have varying success. Just not sure I would agree that enamels aren’t suitable for airbrushing.
Yeah I was a bit dismissive of enamel paints in this video, wish I hadn't of said that, plenty of modellers have used enamels successfully in the past. For mind though, for a rank beginner acrylics and lacquers have more friendliness straight out of the pot...thanks for your comment, cheers Chris
I WISH another company would pick up the Testors Metalizer line. I use aluminum on every kit. The buffing features makes them great to work with.
AlCLAD at $10. per bottle gets too expensive.
Have you tried the Mr Metal color range? They are buffable - I've got their Chrome silver and aluminium and they're great, cheers Chris
I just finished painting the under side of my jet and discovered some areas were smooth and some were rough. My airbrush is Iwata eclipse hp-cs with .5 nozzle//needle,20psi and used xf-83 thinned with x-20a and 3" to "4 from the model. Any idea what is the problem? I also just brought some Mr. color thinner.
Hi Tim, probably too far away from your model - should be 1-2 inches max with that sort of pressure. Cheers, Chris
What is Nitro-Cellulose Thinner? And how can I differentiate with Hobby lacquer Thinner? TIA
Its just the generic hardware thinner you can buy in bulk, which is very "hot" compared to hobby lacquer thinners that include other additives and flow improvers. I usually keep two bottles on my bench with each noted differently - also the hobby ones (MLT or yellow cap Tamiya) have a slight perfume scent added to help you! Cheers Chris
I'm just getting back into making models and have started using a airbrush for the first time. I am finding that the paint I have put on comes off very easy as well the decal solvent faded after I used it. What am I doing wrong?. I used Tamiya paint
Are you putting down a primer? If you're using Tamiya paint straight on to plastic, thinning with a lacquer thinner instead of their X-20A acrylic thinner will give it more bite, or put primer down first. Cheers Chris
My most common mistake using Tamiya Acrylics is I apply to much of a heavy first coat. Or I apply to heavy of coats in general. Been really practicing being patient and do light multiple coats.
The Flory method is to just hose it on at 30PSI!
But yes, a light coat with slightly thicker paint (50/50) seems to work best particularly if not using primer, then layer on lighter coats at thinner ratios. Its a pretty resilient paint once you find that sweet spot.
@@beckersmodels That was me during my first kit. 😂I've been taking time to prime my pieces now days. Do you tend to use a 0.3 needle most the time when painting acrylic/lacquer colors? I've only been using my 0.5 needle for priming and that's about it. Even clear/flat coating with an acrylic I use a 0.3. Even for larger pieces.
I'm building a 3D printed plastic 1/16 RC tank and I'm wondering if I can use Tamiya XF acrylic paints (round bottle) for the lower hull, or should I use LP instead. Will LP have a significant difference against XF series in terms of protection from scratches, paint durability ?
Depends what you thin the XF paint with - if you use lacquer thinner (like Mr Levelling Thinner, which is what I use to thin XF paints) it will be more durable than using X-20A. I use X-20A specifically for hairspray technique, since its not very durable! hope that helps, cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels Thanks Chris for your reply. I have Lacquer Thinner retarder type, will use this one then.
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PS: You don't switch to LP paints completely, because XF can be thinned with both type of thinners (X20A and Lacquer Thinner) ?
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If we thin both paints type (XF and LP) with Lacquer Thinner will there be any difference between those paints then ?
Can you google the product MSDS for tamiya. a chunk of soapstone with inkwells drilled into it.[light containers sometimee suck.
Would Klean strip lacquer thinner work for cleaning tamiya acrylics out of an airbrush? Or would rubbing alcohol work better?
either or should work, I just prefer hardware store no brand thinner, but rubbing alcohol (IPA) is a good less toxic alternative. Cheers Chris
Great video. Very helpful. Cheers.
You're welcome, glad it helped some! Cheers, Chris
Awesome content. I bought an airbrush system a while ago to paint my car emblems, but never got a chance to do it. I picked up a Tamiya F-14D Tomcat model and was thinking maybe I should use the airbrush system to paint it. My question for you...two actually...is there any way to get the Tamiya AS paint in a "non-spray can" format? One of the ones I need is "Light Ghost Gray" (AS-26), however, I would rather have it in a bottle instead of a spray can, even if I was going to brush it on. Is there any way to find out what the content is of "Light Ghost Gray" so I could mix it myself and use the airbrush instead? Or do you just use other paints and make it as "close as you can" to that "specialized" color? Any help would be truly appreciated. Thank you again for the content!
Well, I did find an answer to my questions actually...sort of. I found out that Tamiya has an LP lineup of paints and most of those correspond to the paints in the spray cans. :-) So, I was able to find what I needed in bottle form and can use those instead of the spray cans. Wish I realized that before I actually purchased the four spray cans I needed. Ugggh. LOL!
I was just about to say that about the LP paints! You can actually decant the AS cans however, go to Eric Galliers Manscale Models page, he shows you how to do it with a pipette: facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=622944057881952&external_log_id=d8207987-a89e-4a9c-825a-4b00425c7d02&q=manscale%20models
@@beckersmodels Holy crap! That is awesome! I definitely saved that one. Thank you so much! I was lucky and my order wasn't filled yet, so I "returned" my four spray cans and bought the for corresponding LP paints instead. ;-) Now I'm ordering and downloading books on beginner airbrushing to try and learn my way around this thing. Plus, viewing your great videos on top of it, which are better than books, but it doesn't hurt to have multiple resources. :) Thanks again for the info!
SMS is an Aussie brand?
I'm sorry, but to briefly speak about paint chemistry, or more specifically, thinner chemistry. Mr. Color Levelling Thinner (MCLT) is a water soluble alcohol based thinner, just as is IPA. Granted, MCLT primarily uses Ethanol, with Methanol and at least two other alcohols, it shouldn't matter to the paint finish as there is no appreciable difference in the vapor pressure of IPA or Ethanol. If you are finding a difference, then it is most likely due to the excipient in the IPA, which may not be as pure as advertised on the label. Anyway, good video, thank you.
Thanks for your insight - its hard to make an informative video without overloading on information, or dumbing it down so much you get things wrong, just for the sake of clarity. Cheers, Chris
@@beckersmodels Great watching your videos, very informative. I've only started modelling again after being away from it for years. Trying to get my airbrush skills back up to scratch again is taking time.
Can you please tell me which T 34 you are air brushing? Is it the Tamiya model? I’m looking for a good 1/35 T 34. Can you please help me? Thank you.
Hi Eric, its the Bronco 1/32 (yes 1/32!) cheap and nasty T-34/85 kit, I managed to get a couple which I use only as paint mules, they live above my bench.
I'm not sure about the best T-34 kit, I've built the 1/48 Hobby Boss ones a couple times, they are ok. The ancient Tamiya one is pretty bad and very expensive for what you get. The AFV Club version seems okay, as does the various Dragons (but I find them expensive and the instructions a handful to read properly)
The Miniart ones are very complex and a little daunting for a beginner, while the Academy/Airfix aren't too bad as a middle of the road option, and the Zvezda new tool T-34 looks good too.
Hope that helps! Cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels thank you Bronco. You are very kind. Your videos are great. Eric
Battery operated milk frother, the type that gives a fake cappuccino look? Use that for mixing your Tamiya/Mr Colour paints simple and cheap and a real game changer, well I found it to be.
How hard are they to clean up? Just splash them with lacquer thinner?
@@beckersmodels bloody simple. I have a big Moccona Coffee jar next to me where I dump thinner, paint, cleaning stuff before it goes off to get properly disposed of I stick it in that turn it on for a couple of seconds then turn it off and it's clean enough for coffee .... other than the residue of chemicals
When I use three drops of lacquer mixed with 3 drops of leveling thinner at 20 PSI I run out of paint so quickly. I am surprised you could cover that much surface with it. Is there something I am missing?
Hi Ricky - I usually shoot at 15 PSI or so, and I'm only doing the lightest of coats. Play around with your trigger settings and how close you are from the surface to see how much paint is getting down - experiment with different mixes too - some paints are more opaque and have better coverage than others, depending on pigment (white/yellow are notorious for not having a lot of coverage). Hope that helps, cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels Thank you Chris. I actually tried LP-11 silver and Alclad II white so far. I will keep experimenting. Another question regarding lacquers. I heard in a lot of videos that it creates a bond with the plastic surface and bites into it. However I was able to scratch it off with a toothpick completely and expose the bare plastic again. Is there a need to sand the surface first? I haven't seen anyone do that for primers.
Ah yes that white won't go very far, unless you have a yellow undercoat or black at the very least. The best practice is to put down a primer first, I really prefer MR Surfacer or Stynlrez, it levels out everything - yes the lacquer will bond with the plastic, depending on how hot it is. The Tamiya lacquers are not as hot in my experience, but are very durable. I've removed lacquer paint with IPA and gotten back to bare plastic without marring the surface, but a good scrubbing is required!
@@beckersmodels Ok very interesting. So I need an undercoat before a primer? I thought that Alclad II is meant to be the first layer. Tamiya's manual always says lacquer first, then acrylics and then enamels. If I used Stynelrez I would not be able to put a lacquer on top from what I understood.
Can you paint laquare straight onto plastic?
Most of the time yes, if you spray the first layer as a tack layer, then come back with another wetter layer, but it depends on the quality of the plastic/paints etc setup. I routinely just spray Tamiya acrylics and their lacquers into cockpit spaces without bothering with primer, if I havent added any extra details like metal wires etc. Cheers Chris
If I'm using acrylic paint, what's wrong with using acrylic thinner?
Using an alcohol based thinner like X-20A or similar less toxic solvents is fine for acrylics - it wont be as durable as lacquers, but will suffice for most work and can be sealed in with a lacquer clear to make it rock hard. Cheers Chris
@@beckersmodels Got it thanks
Clean those glass bottles. Asking for trouble with paint flaking off or worse case improper seal and dried up paint.
Yep I clean them as I open up a new one. Ive had a few issues with these because of past very hot summers (44C plus) but generally they have been stable...cheers Chris
25yrs ago All enamels were oil based but that changed.
Can you believe the price of model kits now Iv done few mclaren mp4/6 cars 1/12 and had a look to get another one but now sell for £500 lol
Have you used super cheap auto acrylic thinner on lacquer paints?
Hi Echo - no, I only use that for cleaning. I think its a false economy to use base household products - like Future etc - when finishing your models. The modelling thinners have extra chemicals like retardants and smoothing agents added to make the paint better. Cheers Chris
I see we use the same respirator lol
19.50......6 drops plus 2 drops is 3/1 ratio not 2/1...
Lost in translation with my Australian accent? Sorry!
@@beckersmodels Shit happens ;)
I cannot use *ANY* lacquer-based paint or thinner due to the horrible smell! Time code 8:17 makes my point for me. That plus the complaints from the wife...
Have you tried Hataka? Or Lifecolor (thin this with Vallejo airbrush cleaner in an absolutely clean airbrush thats never had Tamiya XF paints in it or any butanols)? They are the best alternatives as far as I know...
@@beckersmodels Hataka Red?
Pigments are not acrylic, enamel or oil. It's the binder that is and makes the type of paint. Pigments are same for all of them.
not quite. Yes its the binder that defines the paint type, but pigments are different across different types of paint - a lot of artist oils paints are natural, some are synthetic. I didnt want to confuse anyone any further, so hence just a surface level explanation.
@@beckersmodels yes, pigments are natural or synthetic, that is absolutely fine. But acrylic paints are not acrylic because pigment is acrylic. That is simply not true and it will cause further confusion.
50/50 20psi
thats a good starting point for base painting, but I would go thinner and lower PSI for detail painting, cheers Chris
You need a better microphone Chris.
Or move somewhere without deafening cicadas, a large loud dog and equally large loud kids! I use a Snowball Black Ice microphone
@@beckersmodels This would be a better microphone, and more versatile. www.rode.com/microphones/wireless/wirelessgo
Acrylic pigment? What? Do you mean acrylic medium?
Some pigments are synthetic and are made from ground up acrylic resin, others are organic.
@@beckersmodels Mate, do you even understand the meaning of word pigment? How can you not know the role of pigments in paint?
Obviously I don't have a phd in chemistry like yourself,and maybe because English is my second language and you don't understand what I'm saying? Not all pigments are natural, a lot are synthetic. The medium is different to pigment....