Hi Wes I do all my own maintenance on my vehicles as I have heard all the horror stories about dishonest and incompetent mechanics but from watching your videos this past few weeks I wouldn't hesitate to have you work on any vehicles belonging to me. Honesty and Integrity are very hard to find nowadays. Mick, Northern Ireland 👍🍻
It’s amazing how someone can butcher a vehicle that badly where it was turned into a basket case. It’s amazing you had the patience to piece it back together properly.
perfect time to do "while you are in there work" like painting the frame/removing rust etc... but sadly customers rarely want to spend more than the bare minimum:P great work as always Wes :)
The worst jobs are coming in after "someone with tools" gave it go. The latest for me was getting called to fix a Mazak VTC after the OEM tech burned up a couple of Mitsubishi drives. He failed to back up anything before he switched off the main power disconnect while the spindle was running. Then he reset all machine parameters back to factory settings and got the rotary table stuck before he walked away from the job. Also, thank you for calling an "engine" and not a "motor". Most folks don't know the difference.
You are a fearless master mechanic, having equipment is not the only option to fix such a unfinished leftover and messy work by someone, you have the knowledge and capacity to finish a scary job like that I can't even dream about, excellent work Wes, I like your bravery.
What a surprise ! When you started talking about Removing the Cab, I could not believe it. Proof is in the video. Still a tough job with full access . Thanks for the video. Great show.
Its actually the way to go with these Fords. The F-150 from 97-up and the 99-up Super Duty basically have a frame mating them to the front clip like a unibody car. The two hours or so it takes to get it off the frame is well worth it as you then have the frame basically acting like an engine stand and you have space to get in there. You save that time in the long run versus going out the front with less chances of damaging anything. If there is a lift available you'd be hating yourself not to pull the cab.
I have a 2001 cummins with 320k miles, the easiest engine to work on. Limited electronics, no cat. No particular trap, no smog. 17mpg...I, M going to drive it into the ground and keep rebuilding it. No way would I ever buy a new truck! Thanks for the great video...Dave
The 7.3 was a great engine. The 7.3 in the Ford vans are the holly grail set up. I can believe the rust you guy put up with, should come to California!
There nothing worse than repairing or replacing something someone with no knowledge or little knowledge has taken apart and not bagged or marked parts this has happened to me a few times the usual spiel it’s all there a few hours later your missing a few bolts and things were ripped apart and thrown in a box lol I’ve been a mechanic for 20 years and it’s till astounds me how thick some people are don’t touch it if you don’t know what your doing lol great job Wes great video I enjoy the commentary great explanations top bloke god bless
Hi Wes, I'll admit most of what I do on these new vehicles,I wouldn't have a clue as to where to start ,let alone finish. Now I might be the only one that was upset with the mention of you skipping some of the "tedious process" trust me it's not tedious watching a guy take apart a to z and the tricks and tips for getting the job done. It might seem irrelevant to you and other guys,but it to me is helpful. And even gives me the courage to tackle some seemingly impossible jobs...thanks for your channel I find informative,but would like to view as much of the process as possible...thanks again. Have a good one.
you are obviously a wizard at knowing WHAT GOES WHERE... Remembering all of those parts, pieces, and fasteners is indication of a very strong mind. I am beyond impressed! ✔️✔️✔️✔️✔️
Love these trucks. One thing is sentimental value since mine was my dad's, and the other is similar to why I like German cars. They're really advanced for their time and might have issues, but in my opinion the features, ride quality, looks, power etc. make up for it. Not to mention I love how the 6.0 sounds.
@@Owl-ge9jl well the 6.0's are going for way more overpriced than the 7.3's from what i see. i picked up mine for 8k. i think 8k is what, 75 grand cheaper than a new 6.7 powerstroke? LOL!
Great job wess, to take a typical ford 6.0 in the condition most 6.4’s are in (half the engine in the back seat) , and send it back to the customer running, with a new engine in it, I would say it’s worth more than book hours by 10 or 15% anyway., one thing I’ve learned about these 6.0’s is stick to ford parts, except head bolts, and stay away from those Napa oil filter and covers., it generally ends with a standard height filter, and the tall cap will still install, ford cap will not catch a thread without the filter to compress the tube., kind of a safety thing., once the correct filter is mixed with the tall cap, you basically have no filter as oil just runs right around it, not through it., great work, enjoying your older videos!!
Just found your channel a couple weeks ago and I really enjoy it. After watching your test drive and recognizing some landmarks I just wanted to say hi from the other side of the river. Keep up the good work.
Gotta love a job someone else started tearing apart and quickly realized they were in over their heads, great job on putting the puzzle nack together!!
Just a tip for anyone reading this. If you do a cab off, you can setup a couple makeshift plumb bobs hanging from the body and make a mark on the frame. If you line both back up the body goes back down right where it should.
Little project, no Wes when you title told these two guys that this is a motor replacement of current times 2005, it is a major deal to us but that is one of the reasons we come by here to watch some tough stuff get solved while making it look easy, that is what you do, the learning is great for us as well. Taking the cab off was a great idea we would not have thought of doing, nice to see this. Lance & Patrick.
Interestingly, some of the newer trucks require the cab to be removed to replace the engine because it won't physically fit out the front no matter what you do. The newer F-150s are that way.
Now I see that leaving the dealerships in 95 was a good thing. I lost count of the 6.9-7.3 renew engine jobs I did, and I saw what was coming regarding the newer vehicles. Frankly I would stick with smaller jobs, the light line techs made much more than I ever did doing heavy line work. Better you than me, I did my time on flat rate, no more Mr nice guy.
The EPA forced International to rush the 6.0 into production and they were a black eye on Ford. I used to work on them all the time and hated every minute
Wes, u r crazy good , brother, very impressed, I'm just a dumb plumber, u know what they say about plumbers. u only need to know two things, sh*t runs down hill and payday is on Friday...
Well there is another one saved, at least for now. If they don't try to mod it any it might last the rest of the cabs life. That truck seems to have had it a bit rough in the care and repair department.
Yeah, it was a very nice truck once. It appears to have been a fleet truck for an electrical contractor and was probably well taken care of. But, time catches up with us all!
Great video. That thing looked like it was engineered by NASA. And here I thought it was complicated changing the main rotor system transmission on a Coast Guard Sikorsky HH52a SeaGuard helo.
Your last statement. Priceless...and true. :-) Great job, Wes! She sounds great! Owner gets the few tweaks done and happy camping. That IS a nice truck.
i usually take the hydro boost loose at the firewall then take the abs loose from the fender and lay them on the engine. the positive battery cable can be left in place also. just take it loose at the passenger side clamp where the two join. that stinks about the wiring harness over the turbo. love the engine hoist! looks like the previous guy had the grace of an elephant when it came to that plastic. the steering wheel being off and the weird tire wear could be back to the possibility of it being wrecked like you were thinking. i can get the cab off in about 1 1/2 hours and the engine out in a little over an hour...it is possible. this is only because i have done it many many times.
Good job Over the years I've worked with lots of guys who could fix anything in 20 minutes but for one reason or another never could. Excuses Excuses For me i always guesstimate time and double that for when it'll be ready. I'm almost never late to deliver.
I applaud you on the repair and absolutely agree, I highly advise people to not start disassemble if you can’t finish.. if you do put it back before bringing it to me. My standard is to leave no tracks that I was there except the fix. I take pics to insure I route all harness as the factory installed. Thanks for an excellent video.
Hi Wes, great video. As someone who use to write collision repair quote's / estimate's, pre-computer's, those times listed, are for whatever repair(s)/replacement(s) in /for PRISTINE WORKING CONDITIONS. Think working on the factory floor, doing say in this case the 6.0 Powerstroke Engine Replacement. Skill (school of HARD Knox's) dictates you have to add / take into account the condition of the vehicle you will be working on. You got to cover your self for "unforeseen" conditions. Such as rusted bolt's, breaking off, bad fan belt's etc. i.e., sublet(s) say 1 hour each job over 8 hr's of repair time, quoted from the book / program your using to write your repair (NOT AN ESTIMATE) QUOTE. Quote = you know what the repairs require to be brought back factory spec's. Estimate = SWAG = Scientific Wild A$$ Guess, why should I pay for something you know nothing about. (Hate to break it to you, but that's about how a judge will see it.) By the way, back circa early to mid 1970's, the Body & Fender shop I was working in at the time, had a Mechanic who I personally watched remove the engine out of a Lincoln Continental Mark IV. His name was Billy Eastman, he did it in less than three hour's. Oh, and just to really show off, he did it with ONLY HAND TOOL's. The only help he had on that job, was me, to take the hood off, and to put back on. He was what I call a Mechanic's -Mechanic. God was he good & DAM FAST. He put the engine back in (after complete rebuilding it) in under three hour's, again no air tool's. Dave how do you remember this, because it was the boss's car, he made a bet with the boss, the boss was bragging to me about how Billy was going to lose $100.00 because the crash book had it listed at something like 10-12 hour's. Boy was he pissed when he loss. His word's: nobody could do it in that time, he cheated. The boss at that time, had been in the auto business for over thirty year's. Oh and just in case you think I don't know what I'm talking about, when it come's to a Lincoln Continental Mark IV, the front grille, is actually (the vertical fins, not counting the bezel that goes around it) three parts, (four counting the Bezel) check it out. At the time the replacement part(s) cost was around $180.00, just for the vertical fins.
Looking at all the rot under the cab makes me want to use Musties coating process, that is wax and oil. I personally think ya'll served this guy with excellent service. I can see this taking twice that amount of time to correct everything bodged up. But cost would be prohibitive with anything not your own.
Wow. I wouldn't tackle a job like that to save my life. The chances of my getting it back together again are zilch. I hope you are charging properly for your expertise which is amazing. And if the customer could see the underside of the body, instead of the nice shiny paint, he should surely have scrapped it.
As Wes said that's not uncommon of vehicals up there. The weather and salt destroys anything not totally covered in bar oil. That's why I'd never buy a truck from up north or ocean front.
Yep. It's just a fact of life up here. 326,000 miles, and you can bet a fair number were in the winter weather. It keeps repair shops and auto makers busy!
I replaced a 6.0 through the front end for my uncle. It was the trucks 3rd engine in 300k miles. First one exhibited signs of a blown head gasket, the second threw a rod, the third he sold it and bought a duramax. He hasn't had to touch his lml for repairs yet. It was my first ford engine swap though. No tutorial videos, just finding out as I go along. Took the better part of a work week, had so many factors though. Working 5-8hrs a day, waiting on parts for this and that. I can say, I don't know how people ever get used to working on fords. The hardest part was setting the engine I'm and mating the torque converter studs up with the plate. Stupid design with converter studs. Kind of like euro trash and their lug bolts. I like my gm's. I can have a dmax out in a few hours, and if I'm doing a swap like your doing here, can have it running by the end of a long day. I know the 99-06 gm trucks like the back of my hand.
That kind of frame damage can come from pushing another vehicle. A friend of mine tried it with a similar model Ford and had almost identical damage. Turns out that without a ram cage, bump rack, or whatever you want to call it those trucks fold like aluminum foil when you try to push anything. Safety crumple zones and all which includes most modern vehicles. And people wonder why I like old Mopar...
For some years ago I had a similar problem with an AUDI. It had had som issues with its turbo and got it replaced. But now when it had been up in speed for a short time and come down, you couldn't se the town for white smoke. The mekaniks from Audi had no idea what was wrong. They didn't have logic in theyr heads, I think. The problem was, the old turbo had pured oil in to the exhaust and the catalyt, so every thing in there was soaked with oil. I tok the car to the highway and gave it at a "sightseeing tour" with almost full power. And when it cam down to low speed after that it had burned the exhaust free, so no smoke anymore. Some times there happen colatheral things one dosen't think about. ;-) But nice vid, working throug a mess others have made
I cant make book time anymore. I goof off and watch videos, do some cooking so I can eat lunch, then get to work in time to call it a day. Wears a guy the hell out.
Make sure you have good grounds on those trucks or you can fry the transmission in them. They will ground themselves through the drive train. It's a common problem in the rust belt.
Well your not just a kidding there fortunately I was the one who started and finished the engine cooling and transmission driveline work on dads 67 g10 sport van 108spl but I've had dozens of jobs where I had to come in cold and fix the other 3 guys screwups but I'll say one thing you dont well on that super duty wes great work
Yeah, it's pretty sad really. I think eventually they will have to stop using so much salt. It just destroys everything and it can't be good for the environment. I used to help with bridge inspections once upon a time. It was scary to see what we drive over every day!
@@WatchWesWork No kidding! I've never thought about that! I can imagine all that salt water seeping into cracks and joints, just destroying all the reinforcement steel and literally rotting them from the inside out. Yikes! Thx for all the great vids, I like them all, but can't wait for some more machine rebuilding/rehab if it happens to come about... scraping geo... ; ) thx brother
I would never have been able to work on that truck and record it for Yahoo. No doubt I would've had to dip generously into my former Naval vocabulary which I believe is a prerequisite for working on a Ford! There is no harder job than trying to fix what someone else "fixed" before! LOL
Catching up on some of your videos, and proud you sold a 6.0 hopefully at a money made and not a whew, got that puppy off the leash. I have rebuilt fifty year old cars and trucks and that was nearly fifteen years ago. They were in better shape than the bottom of that one so he bought seat covers thinking its got a new trany say fifteen thousand ago so let's do it honey.... we can get johnny to pull the bad engine and save thousands and have a nice rig! When reality hits, he is in deep and not a orr in the water. He is lucky that you cut him a deal on shop time as its close till you do them every day. I paid my mechanics shop time on everything.... everything is negotiable so you don't lose tail learning. I like those female bolt/nut removers and got my impact ones from sears believe it or not. My brother was a butcher at mechanics and I either did the job without him or he had to do it himself. He found a deal off the slope and bought a 2001 with 7.3...... he and his helper got the old engine out in one day chopping at it without jacking the cab either, but he was stout and skinny so they got it out and I had one built in my shop with papers and warranty (meant I had to sign off I did the work) bad thing but family can be a bad thing and three days later it was running good. He did good work but I wouldn't buy one from him as air conditioning.... who needs it in alaska attitude. I miss him so bad as he was the last one in family with thirty two or three years sober. He was a mean drunk but a sweety sober and I just wouldn't go get him once and he finally quit. After fifty years of smoking he quit that and eight months later cancer of lungs. I remember the look on his face when he sat down and told me, lost him in april last year. Anyway those sockets make short work of torque converter nuts like the one shown and used it on bolts with head gone. They go in sets 8-19 or standards but will surprise you how well they work
Awesome work Wes, I truly hated working on the those power strokes. The injectors on the passenger side are such a B.... bear to change. Matt C. P.S. the steering wheel appears a wee bit off.
Yes. Like I said, the connection I removed is keyed, so that one is not my fault! Personally I think the worst pain in the ass on these 6.0s is the stupid air filter!
G'day Wes well that looked like a bush mechanic had a go at it or a couple of crims. You did a good job of it Wes it's a pity they rust so quick isn't there something that you could use under the frame? John PS do ever lose your block or get a angry?
I know it's way to late but I would have paid you extra to degrease the frame before installing the engine and descaling the underside of the cab and hitting with POR-15 rust encapsulator . Keep up the great work and content
Just purchased a 6.0, excessive blow by and fuel in oil and a lope in cranking. Any suggestions on a diagnosis start would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Love the videos
Nah, this is pretty typical for this age truck in this area. Especially one that has been sitting for a few years. Storage breeds corrosion, and other issues as you will see in a future video...
Following behind the grip and rip artist is what sucks. If a mechanic does a nice job it is not as bad. I didn't know people lie about sex on the internet! Good video. A good mechanic I have used told me it is more like double that for hours.
thanks for being honest . lots of guys presto it's done no leaks no fuckups . it isn't reality. I've been a mechanic pushing a half century. I can't think of one engine swap that didn't have a leak or a misplaced bolt. I remember a old ford where the torque converter nuts were so rounded had to spit them .
@@WatchWesWork matter of time Wes...LOL. Nice job - I hate the puzzle jobs. Takes more time and can be depressing as you noted seeing what passes for repairs by other folks.
Powerstroke specialties just did a video on transmission failure caused by bad/missing body/engine grounds. I would add a few more decent ground straps to that body before too long, otherwise it sends current through all of the internals of the transmission and EDMs the guts.
I've heard this theory as well. Forgive me if I remain very skeptical. There's a 4/0 ground cable from the engine to the frame. Path of least resistance and all that...
An extra ground 1/0 from the drivers frame rail to the engine block is a good upgrade as well as a 1/0 ground cable from the passenger frame rail to one of the bolts on the bell housing of the transmission
It lives to die another day. So how did you get that converter nut off? It is frustrating to follow somebody else's work, especially when you can see their frustration.
Great work. Shame that such a nice truck gets destroyed by rust like that. I've had a 96 Ford and have a 97 ford f150 now and they only have surface rust on the frame. My 07 toyota doesnt have a spec of rust really, only around the battery because I've kept it for about 7 years and stuff gets corroded around it from the gasses. I think this week is finally the week it gets replaced. Its having a hard time starting it up and wont take much of a charge from the alternator. Will be buying a Bosch battery again
I just bought a 2004 6.0 for some reason and I’m putting new heads on it. I’ve been reading and thinking about putting a coolant filter on it, do you think they’re worth it?
Links to the tools I mentioned in the video.
Transmission disconnect tool (plastic) - amzn.to/2TFlT7M
Transmission disconnect tool (metal) - amzn.to/2WubAoM
Hose clamp pliers (flexible) - amzn.to/2uAas70
Hose clamp pliers - amzn.to/2Yzncsf
repair times are like fishing stories
I'd watch you sharpen chain saw blades just for the commentary! :)
Knives have blades. Saw chains have teeth. And you dont have a clue.
You were just a "kid" back then. Good job. Thanks.
Hi Wes I do all my own maintenance on my vehicles as I have heard all the horror stories about dishonest and incompetent mechanics but from watching your videos this past few weeks I wouldn't hesitate to have you work on any vehicles belonging to me. Honesty and Integrity are very hard to find nowadays. Mick, Northern Ireland 👍🍻
Incredible. Went from a pile of junk to a running truck. No small trick. Your expertise is OBVIOUS.
And it will go back to be a pile of junk.
def admire your work ethic. wish i could get things done that fast. that'd be a week long project for me.
Yea, at least 4 days work for me!!!
It’s amazing how someone can butcher a vehicle that badly where it was turned into a basket case. It’s amazing you had the patience to piece it back together properly.
Top job Wes you certainly know your stuff mate.
Alan.
Well I get by. Thanks for watching!
perfect time to do "while you are in there work" like painting the frame/removing rust etc... but sadly customers rarely want to spend more than the bare minimum:P great work as always Wes :)
The worst jobs are coming in after "someone with tools" gave it go. The latest for me was getting called to fix a Mazak VTC after the OEM tech burned up a couple of Mitsubishi drives. He failed to back up anything before he switched off the main power disconnect while the spindle was running. Then he reset all machine parameters back to factory settings and got the rotary table stuck before he walked away from the job.
Also, thank you for calling an "engine" and not a "motor". Most folks don't know the difference.
I tell you what, "motor" is such a commonly used term in the US that I have to try really hard not to use it myself. Only the best for you guys!
It SUCKS following someone else. Torn blueprints. I want to be able to fix it without having to reverse engineer it.
If you’re a real mechanic you’d be able to diagnose without having a computer tell you what’s wrong. Maybe you’re one of the “someone with tools”
Why is Detroit called motor city?
You are a fearless master mechanic, having equipment is not the only option to fix such a unfinished leftover and messy work by someone, you have the knowledge and capacity to finish a scary job like that I can't even dream about, excellent work Wes, I like your bravery.
WOW! Any other guy would of had to have 5 friends, his wife, and his wife's boyfriend, out there to help! Great job and video, Wes!
What a surprise ! When you started talking about Removing the Cab, I could not believe it. Proof is in the video. Still a tough job with full access . Thanks for the video. Great show.
Its actually the way to go with these Fords. The F-150 from 97-up and the 99-up Super Duty basically have a frame mating them to the front clip like a unibody car. The two hours or so it takes to get it off the frame is well worth it as you then have the frame basically acting like an engine stand and you have space to get in there. You save that time in the long run versus going out the front with less chances of damaging anything. If there is a lift available you'd be hating yourself not to pull the cab.
I have a 2001 cummins with 320k miles, the easiest engine to work on. Limited electronics, no cat. No particular trap, no smog. 17mpg...I,
M going to drive it into the ground and keep rebuilding it. No way would I ever buy a new truck! Thanks for the great video...Dave
That's how I feel about my 7.3 Powerstroke. Sure it only has 230hp, but it's like a model T compared to the new trucks.
The 7.3 was a great engine. The 7.3 in the Ford vans are the holly grail set up. I can believe the rust you guy put up with, should come to California!
It's just how it is here. You get used to dealing with it.
@@WatchWesWork Yeah Wes.... as a NY'er in the Adirondacks, rust is a way of life. lmao
@@davestrong6472
Why are the van engines’ setup better?
There nothing worse than repairing or replacing something someone with no knowledge or little knowledge has taken apart and not bagged or marked parts this has happened to me a few times the usual spiel it’s all there a few hours later your missing a few bolts and things were ripped apart and thrown in a box lol I’ve been a mechanic for 20 years and it’s till astounds me how thick some people are don’t touch it if you don’t know what your doing lol great job Wes great video I enjoy the commentary great explanations top bloke god bless
Those ratcheting hose clamp pliers rock. I've used the Lisle one for probably 15 years and it paid for itself a long, long time ago.
Have a pair of those hose clamp pliers and they are awesome. Great tip about lining the clamp back into the indentation to prevent leaks on old hoses.
Hi Wes, I'll admit most of what I do on these new vehicles,I wouldn't have a clue as to where to start ,let alone finish. Now I might be the only one that was upset with the mention of you skipping some of the "tedious process" trust me it's not tedious watching a guy take apart a to z and the tricks and tips for getting the job done. It might seem irrelevant to you and other guys,but it to me is helpful. And even gives me the courage to tackle some seemingly impossible jobs...thanks for your channel I find informative,but would like to view as much of the process as possible...thanks again. Have a good one.
Well I'm sure there will be more jobs like that.
Wes, I couldn't agree with you more on the truth about many things in life that are not given. Great job. Keep on smiling.
you are obviously a wizard at knowing WHAT GOES WHERE... Remembering all of those parts, pieces, and fasteners is indication of a very strong mind. I am beyond impressed! ✔️✔️✔️✔️✔️
Great job there, sorting out that mess , always harder to take over someone's else's lash up ,well done great mechanic 👍
Love these trucks. One thing is sentimental value since mine was my dad's, and the other is similar to why I like German cars. They're really advanced for their time and might have issues, but in my opinion the features, ride quality, looks, power etc. make up for it. Not to mention I love how the 6.0 sounds.
the 7.3 is the simple (or poor) mans alternative of a 6.0 lol
@@psd28 Definitely not the poor mans engine with how the market is right now lol. They are also some of my favorite motors
@@Owl-ge9jl well the 6.0's are going for way more overpriced than the 7.3's from what i see. i picked up mine for 8k. i think 8k is what, 75 grand cheaper than a new 6.7 powerstroke? LOL!
@@psd28_46 grand*_
Great job wess, to take a typical ford 6.0 in the condition most 6.4’s are in (half the engine in the back seat) , and send it back to the customer running, with a new engine in it, I would say it’s worth more than book hours by 10 or 15% anyway., one thing I’ve learned about these 6.0’s is stick to ford parts, except head bolts, and stay away from those Napa oil filter and covers., it generally ends with a standard height filter, and the tall cap will still install, ford cap will not catch a thread without the filter to compress the tube., kind of a safety thing., once the correct filter is mixed with the tall cap, you basically have no filter as oil just runs right around it, not through it., great work, enjoying your older videos!!
Another good one Wes. I'm rewatching the oldies since I'm caught up on the current ones.
Never heard "training marks" 😂 gonna use that one later.
Just found your channel a couple weeks ago and I really enjoy it. After watching your test drive and recognizing some landmarks I just wanted to say hi from the other side of the river. Keep up the good work.
One great mechanic..great job, when you give them the bill/swap deal give them this video...worth ever penny.
It was crazy to see the amount of previous damage to deal with in addition to rust!
Gotta love a job someone else started tearing apart and quickly realized they were in over their heads, great job on putting the puzzle nack together!!
Just a tip for anyone reading this. If you do a cab off, you can setup a couple makeshift plumb bobs hanging from the body and make a mark on the frame. If you line both back up the body goes back down right where it should.
Little project, no Wes when you title told these two guys that this is a motor replacement of current times 2005, it is a major deal to us but that is one of the reasons we come by here to watch some tough stuff get solved while making it look easy, that is what you do, the learning is great for us as well. Taking the cab off was a great idea we would not have thought of doing, nice to see this. Lance & Patrick.
Interestingly, some of the newer trucks require the cab to be removed to replace the engine because it won't physically fit out the front no matter what you do. The newer F-150s are that way.
You my friend are a REAL mechanic
Hi Wes. Another fantastic fix 😀 In the U.K. you’d never get a vehicle in that state passed our very strict Government MOT certification 🤣🏴
That truck is actually not in bad shape, and certainly is not “unsafe”.
Cool. Love my 6.0 f550
Now I see that leaving the dealerships in 95 was a good thing.
I lost count of the 6.9-7.3 renew engine jobs I did, and I saw what was coming regarding the newer vehicles.
Frankly I would stick with smaller jobs, the light line techs made much more than I ever did doing heavy line work.
Better you than me, I did my time on flat rate, no more Mr nice guy.
I've never worked flat rate so I can't really comment. Some guys like big stuff, some guys like small stuff. I guess I don't really care either way.
The EPA forced International to rush the 6.0 into production and they were a black eye on Ford. I used to work on them all the time and hated every minute
Wes, u r crazy good , brother, very impressed, I'm just a dumb plumber, u know what they say about plumbers. u only need to know two things, sh*t runs down hill and payday is on Friday...
And don't chew your finger nails...
Well there is another one saved, at least for now. If they don't try to mod it any it might last the rest of the cabs life. That truck seems to have had it a bit rough in the care and repair department.
Yeah, it was a very nice truck once. It appears to have been a fleet truck for an electrical contractor and was probably well taken care of. But, time catches up with us all!
Great video.
That thing looked like it was engineered by NASA.
And here I thought it was complicated changing the main rotor system transmission on a Coast Guard Sikorsky HH52a SeaGuard helo.
Your last statement. Priceless...and true. :-) Great job, Wes! She sounds great! Owner gets the few tweaks done and happy camping. That IS a nice truck.
i usually take the hydro boost loose at the firewall then take the abs loose from the fender and lay them on the engine. the positive battery cable can be left in place also. just take it loose at the passenger side clamp where the two join. that stinks about the wiring harness over the turbo. love the engine hoist! looks like the previous guy had the grace of an elephant when it came to that plastic. the steering wheel being off and the weird tire wear could be back to the possibility of it being wrecked like you were thinking. i can get the cab off in about 1 1/2 hours and the engine out in a little over an hour...it is possible. this is only because i have done it many many times.
Yeah, experience is key! Thanks for stopping by!
I would say 18 hours is doing really well. Good job.
Good job
Over the years I've worked with lots of guys who could fix anything in 20 minutes but for one reason or another never could. Excuses Excuses
For me i always guesstimate time and double that for when it'll be ready. I'm almost never late to deliver.
I applaud you on the repair and absolutely agree, I highly advise people to not start disassemble if you can’t finish.. if you do put it back before bringing it to me. My standard is to leave no tracks that I was there except the fix. I take pics to insure I route all harness as the factory installed. Thanks for an excellent video.
Wes, don't kid yourself, you do good work!!!
Great mechanic. I hope you get compensated well for this work.
Hi Wes, great video. As someone who use to write collision repair quote's / estimate's, pre-computer's, those times listed, are for whatever repair(s)/replacement(s) in /for PRISTINE WORKING CONDITIONS. Think working on the factory floor, doing say in this case the 6.0 Powerstroke Engine Replacement. Skill (school of HARD Knox's) dictates you have to add / take into account the condition of the vehicle you will be working on. You got to cover your self for "unforeseen" conditions. Such as rusted bolt's, breaking off, bad fan belt's etc. i.e., sublet(s) say 1 hour each job over 8 hr's of repair time, quoted from the book / program your using to write your repair (NOT AN ESTIMATE) QUOTE. Quote = you know what the repairs require to be brought back factory spec's. Estimate = SWAG = Scientific Wild A$$ Guess, why should I pay for something you know nothing about. (Hate to break it to you, but that's about how a judge will see it.) By the way, back circa early to mid 1970's, the Body & Fender shop I was working in at the time, had a Mechanic who I personally watched remove the engine out of a Lincoln Continental Mark IV. His name was Billy Eastman, he did it in less than three hour's. Oh, and just to really show off, he did it with ONLY HAND TOOL's. The only help he had on that job, was me, to take the hood off, and to put back on. He was what I call a Mechanic's -Mechanic. God was he good & DAM FAST. He put the engine back in (after complete rebuilding it) in under three hour's, again no air tool's. Dave how do you remember this, because it was the boss's car, he made a bet with the boss, the boss was bragging to me about how Billy was going to lose $100.00 because the crash book had it listed at something like 10-12 hour's. Boy was he pissed when he loss. His word's: nobody could do it in that time, he cheated. The boss at that time, had been in the auto business for over thirty year's. Oh and just in case you think I don't know what I'm talking about, when it come's to a Lincoln Continental Mark IV, the front grille, is actually (the vertical fins, not counting the bezel that goes around it) three parts, (four counting the Bezel) check it out. At the time the replacement part(s) cost was around $180.00, just for the vertical fins.
Looking at all the rot under the cab makes me want to use Musties coating process, that is wax and oil. I personally think ya'll served this guy with excellent service. I can see this taking twice that amount of time to correct everything bodged up. But cost would be prohibitive with anything not your own.
Nice repair Wes , very hard to pick up where someone else has left off .
I believe it's the hardest type of repair to do.
awesome vid! love more detail as you really know your stuff, great job!
Wow. I wouldn't tackle a job like that to save my life. The chances of my getting it back together again are zilch. I hope you are charging properly for your expertise which is amazing. And if the customer could see the underside of the body, instead of the nice shiny paint, he should surely have scrapped it.
As Wes said that's not uncommon of vehicals up there. The weather and salt destroys anything not totally covered in bar oil. That's why I'd never buy a truck from up north or ocean front.
Yep. It's just a fact of life up here. 326,000 miles, and you can bet a fair number were in the winter weather. It keeps repair shops and auto makers busy!
Man...that looks like a lot of work!
YES!!!! Way to go Wes, so excited to hear it fire up.
👍yet another resurrection. Fine job as always Wes!
SPECTACULAR engine swap! Yer a dam good wrench Wes - keep it up - and a dam good dad too. worst thing in the world is fixing other folks' uh-oh's
I replaced a 6.0 through the front end for my uncle. It was the trucks 3rd engine in 300k miles. First one exhibited signs of a blown head gasket, the second threw a rod, the third he sold it and bought a duramax. He hasn't had to touch his lml for repairs yet. It was my first ford engine swap though. No tutorial videos, just finding out as I go along. Took the better part of a work week, had so many factors though. Working 5-8hrs a day, waiting on parts for this and that. I can say, I don't know how people ever get used to working on fords. The hardest part was setting the engine I'm and mating the torque converter studs up with the plate. Stupid design with converter studs. Kind of like euro trash and their lug bolts. I like my gm's. I can have a dmax out in a few hours, and if I'm doing a swap like your doing here, can have it running by the end of a long day. I know the 99-06 gm trucks like the back of my hand.
Great entertainment, with a, we can do attitude.
Regards from North Wales UK.
MASSIVE CHORE!!! Well done Wes!!!
Love your videos so much. If you said I have a video on watching paint dry I will watch it lol
Keep up the good work Wes!
That kind of frame damage can come from pushing another vehicle. A friend of mine tried it with a similar model Ford and had almost identical damage. Turns out that without a ram cage, bump rack, or whatever you want to call it those trucks fold like aluminum foil when you try to push anything. Safety crumple zones and all which includes most modern vehicles. And people wonder why I like old Mopar...
For some years ago I had a similar problem with an AUDI.
It had had som issues with its turbo and got it replaced. But now when it had been up in speed for a short time and come down, you couldn't se the town for white smoke.
The mekaniks from Audi had no idea what was wrong.
They didn't have logic in theyr heads, I think.
The problem was, the old turbo had pured oil in to the exhaust and the catalyt, so every thing in there was soaked with oil.
I tok the car to the highway and gave it at a "sightseeing tour" with almost full power.
And when it cam down to low speed after that it had burned the exhaust free, so no smoke anymore.
Some times there happen colatheral things one dosen't think about. ;-)
But nice vid, working throug a mess others have made
I cant make book time anymore. I goof off and watch videos, do some cooking so I can eat lunch, then get to work in time to call it a day. Wears a guy the hell out.
Big job for one chap on his own to undertake.
Make sure you have good grounds on those trucks or you can fry the transmission in them. They will ground themselves through the drive train. It's a common problem in the rust belt.
Wow! What a difference between this old workshop and your new one! You’d have trouble swinging a cat in this one! Another great video, though.
Another Fine Job Wes.Love your channel.
Well your not just a kidding there fortunately I was the one who started and finished the engine cooling and transmission driveline work on dads 67 g10 sport van 108spl but I've had dozens of jobs where I had to come in cold and fix the other 3 guys screwups but I'll say one thing you dont well on that super duty wes great work
Impressive you always are teaching me
Crazy the way the weather and salt just destroys vehicles up there.
Yeah, it's pretty sad really. I think eventually they will have to stop using so much salt. It just destroys everything and it can't be good for the environment. I used to help with bridge inspections once upon a time. It was scary to see what we drive over every day!
@@WatchWesWork No kidding! I've never thought about that! I can imagine all that salt water seeping into cracks and joints, just destroying all the reinforcement steel and literally rotting them from the inside out. Yikes! Thx for all the great vids, I like them all, but can't wait for some more machine rebuilding/rehab if it happens to come about... scraping geo... ; ) thx brother
Good job wes. Thanx for sharing.
I would never have been able to work on that truck and record it for Yahoo. No doubt I would've had to dip generously into my former Naval vocabulary which I believe is a prerequisite for working on a Ford! There is no harder job than trying to fix what someone else "fixed" before! LOL
yer a helluva wrench Wes- wise in the ways of mechanics
Catching up on some of your videos, and proud you sold a 6.0 hopefully at a money made and not a whew, got that puppy off the leash. I have rebuilt fifty year old cars and trucks and that was nearly fifteen years ago. They were in better shape than the bottom of that one so he bought seat covers thinking its got a new trany say fifteen thousand ago so let's do it honey.... we can get johnny to pull the bad engine and save thousands and have a nice rig! When reality hits, he is in deep and not a orr in the water. He is lucky that you cut him a deal on shop time as its close till you do them every day. I paid my mechanics shop time on everything.... everything is negotiable so you don't lose tail learning. I like those female bolt/nut removers and got my impact ones from sears believe it or not. My brother was a butcher at mechanics and I either did the job without him or he had to do it himself. He found a deal off the slope and bought a 2001 with 7.3...... he and his helper got the old engine out in one day chopping at it without jacking the cab either, but he was stout and skinny so they got it out and I had one built in my shop with papers and warranty (meant I had to sign off I did the work) bad thing but family can be a bad thing and three days later it was running good. He did good work but I wouldn't buy one from him as air conditioning.... who needs it in alaska attitude. I miss him so bad as he was the last one in family with thirty two or three years sober. He was a mean drunk but a sweety sober and I just wouldn't go get him once and he finally quit. After fifty years of smoking he quit that and eight months later cancer of lungs. I remember the look on his face when he sat down and told me, lost him in april last year. Anyway those sockets make short work of torque converter nuts like the one shown and used it on bolts with head gone. They go in sets 8-19 or standards but will surprise you how well they work
Awesome work Wes, I truly hated working on the those power strokes. The injectors on the passenger side are such a B.... bear to change. Matt C. P.S. the steering wheel appears a wee bit off.
Yes. Like I said, the connection I removed is keyed, so that one is not my fault! Personally I think the worst pain in the ass on these 6.0s is the stupid air filter!
Great video Wes, did you ever find out what went south on the other engine?
Yes. I have a tear down video already in the can!
G'day Wes well that looked like a bush mechanic had a go at it or a couple of crims. You did a good job of it Wes it's a pity they rust so quick isn't there something that you could use under the frame? John PS do ever lose your block or get a angry?
You forgot to show how you "bulletproofed" that 6.0.
This is why I love my 94 cummins 😁 K.I.S.S. 👍
I know it's way to late but I would have paid you extra to degrease the frame before installing the engine and descaling the underside of the cab and hitting with POR-15 rust encapsulator . Keep up the great work and content
LOL. Encapsulate? It's completely gone.
Great video wes. Have u ever worked on a 2007 Chevy cobalt. I have a mysterious noise in the front. Apparently it comes from the steering box?
Hey, J.C. Smith rocks.
Just purchased a 6.0, excessive blow by and fuel in oil and a lope in cranking. Any suggestions on a diagnosis start would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Love the videos
You've got a dead cylinder. Rings maybe or worse.
Watch Wes Work , thank you, appreciate it.
Wes. Good job, Did you tell the owner to sell it quick, or is it OK to drive for a few years?
Nah, this is pretty typical for this age truck in this area. Especially one that has been sitting for a few years. Storage breeds corrosion, and other issues as you will see in a future video...
Following behind the grip and rip artist is what sucks. If a mechanic does a nice job it is not as bad. I didn't know people lie about sex on the internet! Good video. A good mechanic I have used told me it is more like double that for hours.
Actually, if I'm not mistaken, corbin clamps are round wire. I'm not sure what these are called, maybe flat corbin?
thanks for being honest . lots of guys presto it's done no leaks no fuckups . it isn't reality.
I've been a mechanic pushing a half century. I can't think of one engine swap that didn't have a leak or a misplaced bolt.
I remember a old ford where the torque converter nuts were so rounded had to spit them .
Wow awesome mechanic
I think you did well I'm a 6.0 owner
Yeah the inversion heaters work well on the cab mounts and don't set the mount on fire...LOL.
_Dan_
I know the cab mounts have Loctite, but I've never had an issue getting the bolts out. Just it them with a 1/2 impact and out they come.
@@WatchWesWork matter of time Wes...LOL. Nice job - I hate the puzzle jobs. Takes more time and can be depressing as you noted seeing what passes for repairs by other folks.
You are amazing!
Love your channel!
Powerstroke specialties just did a video on transmission failure caused by bad/missing body/engine grounds. I would add a few more decent ground straps to that body before too long, otherwise it sends current through all of the internals of the transmission and EDMs the guts.
I've heard this theory as well. Forgive me if I remain very skeptical. There's a 4/0 ground cable from the engine to the frame. Path of least resistance and all that...
An extra ground 1/0 from the drivers frame rail to the engine block is a good upgrade as well as a 1/0 ground cable from the passenger frame rail to one of the bolts on the bell housing of the transmission
Great channel thank you for your videos
People need to learn to keep diesels stock
It lives to die another day. So how did you get that converter nut off? It is frustrating to follow somebody else's work, especially when you can see their frustration.
Some things are best not shown on the internet...
@@WatchWesWork LOL. I hear ya!
Great work. Shame that such a nice truck gets destroyed by rust like that. I've had a 96 Ford and have a 97 ford f150 now and they only have surface rust on the frame. My 07 toyota doesnt have a spec of rust really, only around the battery because I've kept it for about 7 years and stuff gets corroded around it from the gasses. I think this week is finally the week it gets replaced. Its having a hard time starting it up and wont take much of a charge from the alternator. Will be buying a Bosch battery again
Cudo brother. Great job and thorough.
Great job thanks for sharing 👍👍
I just bought a 2004 6.0 for some reason and I’m putting new heads on it. I’ve been reading and thinking about putting a coolant filter on it, do you think they’re worth it?
Yeah! Anyone can take an engine out in 3 hours. But I bet after using hammer grinder and cutting torch. Its trash! Nice work Wes!
I don't know. I pulled the engine out of my wrecked truck with the smoke wrench and it still took more than 3 hours!
Someone who can do that in 3 hours must have/ maybe did that at the dealer when new and had already done 10 or 20 before.