@@mugetzu Yes they and I use them as well. But often I make them using old resin left over and I don't always have some. Cleaning them to be used over and over is also quite a bit of work so I prefer single use.
Thank you! Links to EVERYTHING! I use are in my guide, that section can be found here! docs.google.com/document/d/1aoMSE6GBGMcoYXNGfPP9s_Jg8vr1wQmmZuvqP3suago/edit#bookmark=kix.5lkmrq3wgaxq
I've been using old supports for 2 years. Then the Lychee prints for the last 6mo. But I find this to be the best of all the above. LIke you said, the old supports can be finicky, sometimes even leaving dust or little broken bits in the resin if they have been sitting around for a while in a box.
i would love to see you clean the vat and switch the bottle on a anycubic photon mono m7 pro! cleaning the heated vat and cleaning the auto fill is a hell of a job...
Great video! Question: my old mono 4k is "pre-vat-clean", but I'm hearing I can use the full screen UV test mode. If true, how many seconds does a vat clean normally run for? Perfect timing as Friday is vat clean night. 😊
@@JerryBWagoner absolutely you can still use it. The vat clean is just a button that does the exact same thing as the full exposure test. You want to run it for about 10 seconds.
I've been doing this for well a LOT recenlty with the very high falure rate on the S4U! There is a reason I say to fold it. 1. Make it stronger. 2. The Glue is not exposed to the FEP 3. The cut edges of the paper are not exposed. After lots and lots and lots of testing. Over 50 cleans on 5 printers over the last month I can say no crap in the resin.
@@Sealix Dude.. it'd a total slog! I've been struggle for weeks trying to get consistent results. I was to show off real days and not just my opinion based on the last month. But I worry I'll need to.
@@J3DTech Damn that's a bummer. Yeah data collection is a hard job, but I think having some personal opinions in there isn't necessarily a bad thing, especially considering your knowledge and experience. It just has to be followed by some sort of explanation as to why you think the way you do so people can judge whether or not their situation lines up with the pros and cons of each printer. Ofc that's just my... Opinion. Good luck!
@@MoonWind32690 Spoiler, it keeps any resin from getting down inside the printer. This is very important on the S4u or Mars 5 Ultra with the tilting VAT. It's cut and folded in a way to make an accordion 🪗.
Isn't it necessary to clean the entire tray after such a procedure in order to start the next print? After all, a piece of damaged scaffolding, for example, can float in the resin. Am I going to extremes though, because I have always cleaned.
@@tomaszzaborek4413 The cured resin is always going to be more dense than uncured and it's going to sink to the bottom. When you do a vat clean it's going to pull all that out. The longest I've gone without removing the VAT is about 6 months and 30+ KG of resin. When I finally did remove it and strain the resin that was in it, there was basically nothing in the strainer. It was clean. When you combine this with my silicone spatula method where you squeegee the fap between every print, you pretty much always confirm that vat is clean and good. Go before every print.
Sooo... The bad news... Not having a post-it note and using a folded up piece of papertowel...might not work so well. :) In my experience the papertowel ripped off and the portion that had been in the vat stayed in the vat. This meant pulling out all my vat cleaning gear and doing it more like the "normal" way. The good news... once I got the cured layer off of the fep the fep was amazingly clear. I was shocked at how clear it was. so much so I was disappointed in myself for using the papertowel as had the initial pull would have worked, it would have been even clearer than my micro fiber cleaning approach. Next time!. :)
@@JerryBWagoner As you discovered, you don't want to use any paper that will absorb a lot of resin or leave behind a lot of fibers in the resin. Just order a stack of post it notes and keep them close to your 3D printer.
Lychee Cleaner works great!
@@mugetzu Yes they and I use them as well.
But often I make them using old resin left over and I don't always have some. Cleaning them to be used over and over is also quite a bit of work so I prefer single use.
Thanks so much, solves a major problem of not having the supports that you can use or are just too small.
Much easier than using seashells
@@SpringfieldFatts You are fined one credit for a violation of the Verbal Morality Statute.
Love it!!
Thank you!
Great video, please put a link to that UV flashlight in the description, thanks!
Thank you! Links to EVERYTHING! I use are in my guide, that section can be found here!
docs.google.com/document/d/1aoMSE6GBGMcoYXNGfPP9s_Jg8vr1wQmmZuvqP3suago/edit#bookmark=kix.5lkmrq3wgaxq
This is awesome! I’m always too nervous about introducing new debris or dust when using old supports. Can’t wait to have a fail 😆
Great tip, thanks!
Thanks!
you can also use old supports but it can be a bit finicky.
I've been using old supports for 2 years. Then the Lychee prints for the last 6mo. But I find this to be the best of all the above.
LIke you said, the old supports can be finicky, sometimes even leaving dust or little broken bits in the resin if they have been sitting around for a while in a box.
i would love to see you clean the vat and switch the bottle on a anycubic photon mono m7 pro!
cleaning the heated vat and cleaning the auto fill is a hell of a job...
@@Alucard_IE I just did that. It was a bit of a pain!
Great video! Question: my old mono 4k is "pre-vat-clean", but I'm hearing I can use the full screen UV test mode. If true, how many seconds does a vat clean normally run for?
Perfect timing as Friday is vat clean night. 😊
@@JerryBWagoner absolutely you can still use it. The vat clean is just a button that does the exact same thing as the full exposure test. You want to run it for about 10 seconds.
Whoa. Is that what you do now? I did like those printable handles but they seems so much simpler. Only concern would be paper tearing
I've been doing this for well a LOT recenlty with the very high falure rate on the S4U!
There is a reason I say to fold it.
1. Make it stronger.
2. The Glue is not exposed to the FEP
3. The cut edges of the paper are not exposed.
After lots and lots and lots of testing. Over 50 cleans on 5 printers over the last month I can say no crap in the resin.
Good quick tip! By the way, how is the printer recommendation video coming along?
@@Sealix Dude.. it'd a total slog! I've been struggle for weeks trying to get consistent results. I was to show off real days and not just my opinion based on the last month. But I worry I'll need to.
@@J3DTech Damn that's a bummer. Yeah data collection is a hard job, but I think having some personal opinions in there isn't necessarily a bad thing, especially considering your knowledge and experience. It just has to be followed by some sort of explanation as to why you think the way you do so people can judge whether or not their situation lines up with the pros and cons of each printer. Ofc that's just my... Opinion. Good luck!
What's the painter's tape for! I'm wracking my brain over it!
@@MoonWind32690 There will he a video on that very soon. But on the Lychee Slicer TH-cam
@@MoonWind32690 Spoiler, it keeps any resin from getting down inside the printer.
This is very important on the S4u or Mars 5 Ultra with the tilting VAT. It's cut and folded in a way to make an accordion 🪗.
Isn't it necessary to clean the entire tray after such a procedure in order to start the next print? After all, a piece of damaged scaffolding, for example, can float in the resin. Am I going to extremes though, because I have always cleaned.
@@tomaszzaborek4413 The cured resin is always going to be more dense than uncured and it's going to sink to the bottom. When you do a vat clean it's going to pull all that out.
The longest I've gone without removing the VAT is about 6 months and 30+ KG of resin.
When I finally did remove it and strain the resin that was in it, there was basically nothing in the strainer. It was clean.
When you combine this with my silicone spatula method where you squeegee the fap between every print, you pretty much always confirm that vat is clean and good. Go before every print.
Sooo... The bad news... Not having a post-it note and using a folded up piece of papertowel...might not work so well. :) In my experience the papertowel ripped off and the portion that had been in the vat stayed in the vat. This meant pulling out all my vat cleaning gear and doing it more like the "normal" way.
The good news... once I got the cured layer off of the fep the fep was amazingly clear. I was shocked at how clear it was. so much so I was disappointed in myself for using the papertowel as had the initial pull would have worked, it would have been even clearer than my micro fiber cleaning approach. Next time!. :)
@@JerryBWagoner As you discovered, you don't want to use any paper that will absorb a lot of resin or leave behind a lot of fibers in the resin.
Just order a stack of post it notes and keep them close to your 3D printer.
What was the up torch for?
@@BlueBirdGTV That's a UV flashlight to cure the resin in the bin.
In my opinion this would be better than using old supports. The old supports have the chance of scratching the fep if the raft has a sharp edge on it.
@@brendon6930 Yes it's much better! And no chance of a bit of the old supports breaking off and staying on the VAT.