Thanks for the write up. My head gasket blew and I bought a used engine off ebay and I decided I better adjust the valves because it had 22,000 miles. Well, most were at .063. I'm following your write up and the service manual. Mine is a 2002 zx6. So figure they've never been done and most valves at at .063 and one intake and exhaust valve was at .076. Proud of my math. If I'm at .063 with an exhaust valve and I have a 2.90 shim, I concluded I need a 2.683 shim for .28 clearance. I'm going to use a 2.70 shim.
This video will help me a lot when I go to do mine. Thank you. By the way I have the same exact bike color and all minus the blue seat. Hope you still have it I sure enjoy mine. It's my first bike as well.
Just did my first valve adjustment on my 2000 zx6e. that was a scary one. It all worked out in the end, but at a few points I thought I busted a valve. first time cranking it after putting it all back together, one of the shims snapped into place, which made me think I broke something. then as I was taking it all apart the chain skipped a bottom tooth without me realizing. that caused the pistons to hit a valve while turning the crank. I finally got the chain lined up again and the bike is running now, I even did the +4 degree timing advance, but that needs more testing to see if it had an effect. In the end I've taken my cams off maybe 10+ times because of that, so I have the whole thing down in memory.
Sorry to hear about that. Did you hand crank multiple revolutions of the motor and therefore the valvetrain? That should have seated the buckets on the shims and should have either set the chain or let you know it was going to jump a tooth. I would be very curious to know if you had done 3-8 full revolutions of the crank and still had that problem. I did enjoy this job - after being quite scared off for too many of thousands of miles on the motor.
Green Magic Man the shim snapped in place from less than a quarter turn, just as the cams put pressure on the buckets. after I got everything back together the way they were supposed to me I did multiple cranks to make sure and multiple gap checks with my shims to make sure it was safe.
Ok, so you mean you fired the motor and that happened? Or you hand turned the motor many times and checked the clearances first (and they were all in spec), and THEN you fired the motor and the shim moved and set and caused all the problems?
Green Magic Man no. the first time I hand cranked it when it made the noise, which led me to taking the cams off again which led to jumping a tooth. then once I got it right I hand cranked it a bunch before checking with shims before hitting the starter.
Ah ok. I'm glad to hear that then. So simply turning the crank by hand alerted you that something was wrong and you were astute enough to fix it. Well Done Sir!
Sure, you can pay someone to do it. That's a route and a choice. But it is pretty easy, far easier than I thought. I wish I had done it myself sooner. the steps make it look complex and long, but it's quicker than it looks.
i have zzr600 1994 and have noise after i replace the complete gear and fork i lobricate al part includ the crankshaft bearing i dont know what happend i you can i want to send you the video of this noise and the camshaft chain thanks
Why are you worriesd about the position of the chain on the sprockets and marking it ??? As long as the sprockets dont move and you have the IN/EX marks to line up with the head for that. Also those spark plug O rings may look ok, but will be compressed and degraded and may not stop moisture getting in so a very cheap swap and a lot easier than shims.
w my crank at position 1-4 tdc, when i attempt to check intake cylinder 1, but the cam lobes are in the way...(or valve bucket is pressed down at this position.... ) do i roll the cam a bit and measure w cam lobes up, or do i do 1/2 the engine at position1-4, and other half only at position 2-3 tdc... not sure how to measure if cam is pushing down valve bucket
This may be the issue if I read this correctly - what you wrote: Remember that setting the crank to position marked 1/4 means that EITHER cylinder #1 OR cylinder #4 is at TDC (Top Dead Center). They are not both at the same time. Look now over at cylinder #4 - is it at TDC right now? And if #1 is blocked - then turn the crank around again a full 360 degrees. That would then put #1 cylinder at TDC.
And if the cam lobes is actively pressing down on the bucket then you cannot measure the clearance!! Although placing the lobe at TDC in relation to each valve is the correct way to do it - in reality, as long as the lobes isn't pressing against the bucket it can more or less be measured in any of the other 3 of 4 directions. Make sense? That assumes you don't have irregular cam lob wear spots anywhere - which is unlikely anyhow.
OMG!! thanks you..... i clearly missed that, i have the service manual, and i have rebuildt entire motors but.... i was having a hard time understanding this exact portion.... rotate crank 360 for other cylinder of the combo... Test 1, then rotate 360, then test 4, rinse repeat.....
Ya, it makes sense now.... thanks mate.... threw a rod bearing at 92,162 km.... she had been making a funny noise I couldnt seem to find. just rebuilt her from ground up...new second gear, shift forks & drum, just wanted to do valves while i had motor on the bench rather than in the bike.... I think i got it now that you gave me that eureka moment....now not only do i know what to do... i understand what i was missing
There are many factors why a bike wont start. We could IM off TH-cam about your bike. I could look up a few posts I've made about this generally. But think: Spark, Air, Fuel. Usu not getting air is not the problem. Too much from a vacuum leak could be an issue but this seems uncommon. 1st, make sure battery is well charged!! That means at least 12.7 - 13 VDC resting anyway. 2nd, how long has bike sat? With fuel in it? With fuel stabilizer or not? Have carbs been cleaned ever? 3rd, check for spark on all four cylinders. 4th, consider replacing spark plug wires. You can make your own for about $5. Buy 3-5 feet of the copper solid core 8mm plug wire (BWD is brand I used from O'reilly auto). You do NOT want to use 7mm carbon core crap typical automobile spark plug wires. The wires unscrew from the coils and the spark plugs. Chop up the new wire and install. Check for strong blue spark on all 4 while in there.
OK after doing this twice and getting strange "light resistance numbers" a tech explained. The gauge should fit at the minimum but not the maximum. And after two attempts mine has light resistance at .102 but it fits near max on intake and exhaust. It's tight as shit near max on intake but not exhaust. So I'm in range. But many people will tell you the standard is light resistance but if you get near the max with that, I think you could shove a gauge way thicker through than the max gap. So I think that light resistance is wrong. You have a clue on your online write up where you say .038 would not fit through the valve, you did not say it was light resistance you said it wouldn't fit through. Go/no go. At least I hope so because I'm tired of doing this. I've taken it apart twice now. My initial intake shim for number 8 was 3.0mm. I'm down to a 2.70mm. I've gone from 2.90 on one exhaust valve to 2.45. Which is an awful lot and it's still only light resistance at .102. But I can put a .31 through but not a .35 through the exhaust. And an intake a .24 is tight as shit and anything bigger will not go. so I think I'm done.
It's a pretty cool thing to tackle yourself, rewarding and not a lot of fancy tools are required. I have a written guide to this @ www.zzr-international.co.uk which is a 'sticky' post on the zzr600 section. Again it may look complicated (I was intimidated to try to do this for years) but it's really not hard.
The direct page link is in the description to this video above. I read another guy's post there (SnooSnoo), but at some point all his pictures disappeared so I was motivated to make a newer / better posting with clear pics.
Why? It's much easier to not bother. The 2 throttle cables suck to put back in. There's plenty of space to adjust the clearances - you only need space from the top. What would taking carbs out get you? I take the carbs out enough times on this bike 'cleaning' out them.
+Green Magic Man yes true, them cables you have to pull super hard to get off. I pulled the motor out so I can check valve and re seat them and check piston rings. and cylinder 3 & 4 are all black and sooty where I took the header off of the motor. they are all black but 3 & 4 are the worst.
![ประสบการณ์ จ้าง Developer ที่ผมจะไม่มีวันลืม [ภาค2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pZbsSDRrmXA/mqdefault.jpg)
The perfect video I was looking for all my life.
Thank you
Thanks for the write up. My head gasket blew and I bought a used engine off ebay and I decided I better adjust the valves because it had 22,000 miles. Well, most were at .063. I'm following your write up and the service manual. Mine is a 2002 zx6. So figure they've never been done and most valves at at .063 and one intake and exhaust valve was at .076. Proud of my math. If I'm at .063 with an exhaust valve and I have a 2.90 shim, I concluded I need a 2.683 shim for .28 clearance. I'm going to use a 2.70 shim.
This video will help me a lot when I go to do mine. Thank you. By the way I have the same exact bike color and all minus the blue seat. Hope you still have it I sure enjoy mine. It's my first bike as well.
Just did my first valve adjustment on my 2000 zx6e. that was a scary one. It all worked out in the end, but at a few points I thought I busted a valve. first time cranking it after putting it all back together, one of the shims snapped into place, which made me think I broke something. then as I was taking it all apart the chain skipped a bottom tooth without me realizing. that caused the pistons to hit a valve while turning the crank. I finally got the chain lined up again and the bike is running now, I even did the +4 degree timing advance, but that needs more testing to see if it had an effect.
In the end I've taken my cams off maybe 10+ times because of that, so I have the whole thing down in memory.
Sorry to hear about that.
Did you hand crank multiple revolutions of the motor and therefore the valvetrain?
That should have seated the buckets on the shims and should have either set the chain or let you know it was going to jump a tooth.
I would be very curious to know if you had done 3-8 full revolutions of the crank and still had that problem.
I did enjoy this job - after being quite scared off for too many of thousands of miles on the motor.
Green Magic Man the shim snapped in place from less than a quarter turn, just as the cams put pressure on the buckets. after I got everything back together the way they were supposed to me I did multiple cranks to make sure and multiple gap checks with my shims to make sure it was safe.
Ok, so you mean you fired the motor and that happened? Or you hand turned the motor many times and checked the clearances first (and they were all in spec), and THEN you fired the motor and the shim moved and set and caused all the problems?
Green Magic Man no. the first time I hand cranked it when it made the noise, which led me to taking the cams off again which led to jumping a tooth. then once I got it right I hand cranked it a bunch before checking with shims before hitting the starter.
Ah ok. I'm glad to hear that then. So simply turning the crank by hand alerted you that something was wrong and you were astute enough to fix it. Well Done Sir!
I've had my 97 sitting for the last 10 years.. I think it's time to clean the carbs and see if she starts..
vid gives me reassurance was dreading doing this to my 1990 zr550
I was dreading it too... and put it off for years when I should not have. Glad I got it done and will be a lot easier next time around!
Hey man do you have video of cleaning carbs for the zzr 6 by any chance or will you be doing one
Sure, you can pay someone to do it. That's a route and a choice. But it is pretty easy, far easier than I thought. I wish I had done it myself sooner. the steps make it look complex and long, but it's quicker than it looks.
i have zzr600 1994
and have noise after i replace the complete gear and fork
i lobricate al part includ the crankshaft bearing
i dont know what happend
i you can i want to send you the video of this noise
and the camshaft chain
thanks
hi have zzr600 1994 I have noise from engine I thought that is from clearness I checked but it isn't from there can I send the video of noise?
Does the link still work? Ive tried it and nothing shows
Why are you worriesd about the position of the chain on the sprockets and marking it ??? As long as the sprockets dont move and you have the IN/EX marks to line up with the head for that. Also those spark plug O rings may look ok, but will be compressed and degraded and may not stop moisture getting in so a very cheap swap and a lot easier than shims.
Oh I see making it easier to re assemble, not essential but definately easier. Good video, quite detailed.
Should you change the timing chain while you have it apart ?? It looked a little loose but is that something you recommend?
I can try to listen to some videos / audio of the noise, but I'm not an expert on all things mechanical on these motorcycles.
Thank you for sharing!!
w my crank at position 1-4 tdc, when i attempt to check intake cylinder 1, but the cam lobes are in the way...(or valve bucket is pressed down at this position.... ) do i roll the cam a bit and measure w cam lobes up, or do i do 1/2 the engine at position1-4, and other half only at position 2-3 tdc... not sure how to measure if cam is pushing down valve bucket
This may be the issue if I read this correctly - what you wrote:
Remember that setting the crank to position marked 1/4 means that EITHER cylinder #1 OR cylinder #4 is at TDC (Top Dead Center). They are not both at the same time. Look now over at cylinder #4 - is it at TDC right now? And if #1 is blocked - then turn the crank around again a full 360 degrees. That would then put #1 cylinder at TDC.
And if the cam lobes is actively pressing down on the bucket then you cannot measure the clearance!!
Although placing the lobe at TDC in relation to each valve is the correct way to do it - in reality, as long as the lobes isn't pressing against the bucket it can more or less be measured in any of the other 3 of 4 directions. Make sense? That assumes you don't have irregular cam lob wear spots anywhere - which is unlikely anyhow.
OMG!! thanks you..... i clearly missed that, i have the service manual, and i have rebuildt entire motors but.... i was having a hard time understanding this exact portion.... rotate crank 360 for other cylinder of the combo... Test 1, then rotate 360, then test 4, rinse repeat.....
was reading your blog post you linked re valve adjustment at the time...thanks again... will post my results
Ya, it makes sense now.... thanks mate.... threw a rod bearing at 92,162 km.... she had been making a funny noise I couldnt seem to find. just rebuilt her from ground up...new second gear, shift forks & drum, just wanted to do valves while i had motor on the bench rather than in the bike.... I think i got it now that you gave me that eureka moment....now not only do i know what to do... i understand what i was missing
how can i get my 1993zx600e start. it i put a new cdi box in it and still wont stat
There are many factors why a bike wont start. We could IM off TH-cam about your bike. I could look up a few posts I've made about this generally. But think: Spark, Air, Fuel. Usu not getting air is not the problem. Too much from a vacuum leak could be an issue but this seems uncommon.
1st, make sure battery is well charged!! That means at least 12.7 - 13 VDC resting anyway.
2nd, how long has bike sat? With fuel in it? With fuel stabilizer or not? Have carbs been cleaned ever?
3rd, check for spark on all four cylinders.
4th, consider replacing spark plug wires. You can make your own for about $5. Buy 3-5 feet of the copper solid core 8mm plug wire (BWD is brand I used from O'reilly auto). You do NOT want to use 7mm carbon core crap typical automobile spark plug wires.
The wires unscrew from the coils and the spark plugs. Chop up the new wire and install. Check for strong blue spark on all 4 while in there.
Great video.
Thanks! The write up helps make more sense of the video as well.
Great video.really helpful.thankyou top job.😊
+Matt Wright Thanks! Hope it will help some people out there.
Nice video
There is a trick to change the shims without taking the cams out using a plastic strip down the spark plug hole
OK after doing this twice and getting strange "light resistance numbers" a tech explained. The gauge should fit at the minimum but not the maximum. And after two attempts mine has light resistance at .102 but it fits near max on intake and exhaust. It's tight as shit near max on intake but not exhaust. So I'm in range. But many people will tell you the standard is light resistance but if you get near the max with that, I think you could shove a gauge way thicker through than the max gap. So I think that light resistance is wrong. You have a clue on your online write up where you say .038 would not fit through the valve, you did not say it was light resistance you said it wouldn't fit through. Go/no go. At least I hope so because I'm tired of doing this. I've taken it apart twice now. My initial intake shim for number 8 was 3.0mm. I'm down to a 2.70mm. I've gone from 2.90 on one exhaust valve to 2.45. Which is an awful lot and it's still only light resistance at .102. But I can put a .31 through but not a .35 through the exhaust. And an intake a .24 is tight as shit and anything bigger will not go. so I think I'm done.
I think I'll pay my neighbor $300 he has 20 years experience as a motorcycle mechanic
It's a pretty cool thing to tackle yourself, rewarding and not a lot of fancy tools are required. I have a written guide to this @ www.zzr-international.co.uk which is a 'sticky' post on the zzr600 section. Again it may look complicated (I was intimidated to try to do this for years) but it's really not hard.
The direct page link is in the description to this video above.
I read another guy's post there (SnooSnoo), but at some point all his pictures disappeared so I was motivated to make a newer / better posting with clear pics.
NICE.
Thank you!
Yeah that valve cover is something to wiggle out. p.i.t.a. is right.
👍
Man that job looks a right pain in the arse.think ill let the garage do mine.bet its gonna be expensive
why the fuck didnt u just take the carbs out lol
Why? It's much easier to not bother. The 2 throttle cables suck to put back in. There's plenty of space to adjust the clearances - you only need space from the top. What would taking carbs out get you?
I take the carbs out enough times on this bike 'cleaning' out them.
That valve cover is a pain the arse. lol
Agreed, yes, it is. But I'd rather pull that cover than the throttle cables, they irritate me more.
+Green Magic Man yes true, them cables you have to pull super hard to get off. I pulled the motor out so I can check valve and re seat them and check piston rings. and cylinder 3 & 4 are all black and sooty where I took the header off of the motor. they are all black but 3 & 4 are the worst.
That's to much crap I wanna ride think I'll get something easier