I got excited when you mentioned swimming pool, thoughts of a fancy pool with waterfalls, chlorine, backwashing awesome plumbing and big powerful pumps entered my mind!
I was expecting 3 chips in each 5050 package, like it is in the white ones. There's just 1 chip in each package and only the middle pair of pins is used...
Nothing happened. You must obtain compliant certification on any consumer electronics product that you import and put into circulation in Europe. Obviously a manufacturer in the country of origin could help you and provide certification documents (which could be from an accredited test lab or done by self-certification with a compliant test protocol), but they didn't, and they don't have to, and since your seller is outside Europe too, they couldn't care either.
Interestingly our RCD (plus a UPS) saved our aquarium fish one year. The 180 litre aquarium sprung a leak at about 2am while we were asleep. The water ran along the wires from its light, filter, etc. down to the power strip and tripped the RCD. My PC's UPS cut-in and its loud beeping woke me up. I turned on the room light to find that it was the RCD had tripped and not a power cut. When I headed for the utility room to reset it, I could hear what sounded like a burst pipe. Indeed it was panic time to rescue the fish and clean up the flood. Thankfully with the help of a few dehumidifiers and fans, there was no damage other than the aquarium. Besides that incident, it's also surprising the number of white good appliances we had that failed with a ground fault, e.g. our last fridge, chest freezer, deep fryer, panel heater, etc. failed with a near zero Ohm resistance between the plug's live pin and the exposed metal of the appliance.
Yes, RCD can be quite handy :). Unless it keeps tripping for no reason. I experienced just few ground faults. Once we installed a new light and it was tripping the breakers. A mounting screw accidentaly cut into the cable. Once I had a ground fault in a classic fluorescent fixture. The winding of the magnetic ballast shorted to the metal core and thus to the metal body of the fixture. Having no RCD, the winding was just burning and didn't trip anything. The resistance of about half of the winding that happened between live and ground, wasn't enough to trip a 16A breaker.
Older instalations (TN-C) used just 2 wires - one live and one wire as both ground and neutral, called PEN. When the PEN broke, all grounded appliances became live via the impedance of the appliances. This is why TN-C was abandoned and new instalations are TN-S (3 wire).
It's got water in it at the ends, but how did it get there, because as we know, it's waterproof! Or is it eBay sellers and/or Chinese manufacturers telling us lies?
You add a very low, say 2 Ohm, resistor in series and the voltage drop across this resistor will correspond to the current flowing through it. He would have connected the two end of the oscilloscope probe at the two ends of this low resistance resistor.
Cool stuff man, and nice Variac :) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autotransformer#Variable_autotransformers Wish, I could find a decent one for a fair price. (3rd World Syndrome: if it's there it ain't affordable and there are no alternatives!)
Sadly, Variacs are quite expensive. A new 250V 10A variac costs about 250 USD. Even a 50 years old working one costs about 60 USD. I was lucky to get a faulty one with a broken contact for 25 USD and fix it myself. (1st World Syndrome: You can buy everything. You don't have to build or fix anything and you don't learn anything.)
Err. I am now getting really worried. Rectified mains. Unless that is far far safer than true dc do I really want that in effectively home made enclosures? I was always taught 200v dc was utterly lethal, and I don’t consider Uk mains to be anything like lethal (normally). Is rectified ac more like ac from a muscle spasm throw you away from the source point of view or is it as dangerous as dc? Great video by the way.
100 Hz flicker not visible the human eye? I have a lot of LED lights in my house at this point, some from the store, some I made myself, and I'm in America, so it's 120 Hz with full bridge rectifier, I still notice the flicker all the time. I went to Ireland a while ago and the flicker was so bad there with the 50Hz power, I dunno how you guys can stand it.
I don't know exactly, but probably ONE receptor in the eye, pixel so to say, can't respond to 100 Hz flicker, but the ones adjacent to it could be triggered with some delay. We can see the stroboscopic effect if we move our eyes/head fast enough, which wouldn't be possible if the image in the whole we perceive were filtered below 50 Hz or so. So I belive we can see and our brain can process way faster movements than 100 Hz, just proably the same "pixel" can't react that fast. And I totally agree with you, flickering lights are very uncomfortable, can cause headache. The same issue is on the roads as well, those VW and Audi red tail lights that are using PWM without filtering are distracting at best...
It's waterproof in one direction: once water comes in, it never comes out again.
That's exactly it :). Or it comes out together with its guts :).
They just didn't finish the sentence... ran out of ink... tsk-tsk
Maybe the cable is not waterproof but just the strip!
Or a 'Water diode' lol
The "ladders" in the "swiming pool" part was hilarious :D
Agreed, best part of the video imho. LMAO
It was also used to test if there is any leakage current. Thats a multi use ladder!
I like the no diving sign:-)
My favorite part of each video is when you say, "Dodgy". It makes my day. Thanks!
It definetly deserves a IP64 rating
I got excited when you mentioned swimming pool, thoughts of a fancy pool with waterfalls, chlorine, backwashing awesome plumbing and big powerful pumps entered my mind!
It's a budget version of a swimming pool, just like the LED strips :).
Hmm im not going into your pool :-D
Splash resistant perhaps.
I do like the design of those single leds, unusual pattern.
I was expecting 3 chips in each 5050 package, like it is in the white ones. There's just 1 chip in each package and only the middle pair of pins is used...
Super testy, máš to v merku. Dokonce díky tobě jsem si koupil ten samý klešťový multimetr Voltcraft. Jen tak dál, fandím ti.
Poučný a zábavný videa, díky za ně... už se těším na další. Jo a žebřík vážně nemá chybu:-)
"This is very dodgy"
Niiice!
6:30 NO DIVING !
Love ur vids and love the voice makes the channel so much better
4leds resistor 4leds resistor 4leds resistor 4leds resistor 4leds resistor 4leds resistor 4leds resistor 4leds resistor 4leds resistor 4leds resistor....yeah easy to remember!
OMG! I wouldn’t like use this in my swimming pool.
Your pool with ladder is very nice.
Who would use this chinese rubbish?
Hát igen, szar kínai ledre lehet mondani mindent, csak azt nem, hogy biztonságos.
Who else thought he actually had a real swimming pool?
the waterproof is mean the strip itself waterproof,not the end cap or the start cap,so you can submerge the strip itself only
Ah, the famous rectified mains killer LED-strips with deattatching ends
the wires used is aluminium
6:30 hmm, nice swimming pool 😂😂
How you measure "wattage" from yellow digital multimeter
kartik rajurkar He explains it on his website, danyk.cz
This way:
danyk.cz/wmetr_en.html
The circuit is built into the power extension.
Thank you sir..
I love how he says "bridge rectifier"
No it is FUUUUUUUUUUUUUULLLLLLL BRIDGE RECTIFIAAA( thumbs up if you catched it)
Mehdi
That ladder is unsafe
I lived in a cheap apartment once that had a pool just like that!
That thing is so dangerous what ever happened too CE certification?
Nothing happened. You must obtain compliant certification on any consumer electronics product that you import and put into circulation in Europe. Obviously a manufacturer in the country of origin could help you and provide certification documents (which could be from an accredited test lab or done by self-certification with a compliant test protocol), but they didn't, and they don't have to, and since your seller is outside Europe too, they couldn't care either.
CE happened to actually mean "China Export" :)
Confirmed Electrocutor
Jon Johnson China
no GFCI/RCD in your home? 🙁
Only in my bathroom (not in the room where my swimming pool is) :)
Interestingly our RCD (plus a UPS) saved our aquarium fish one year. The 180 litre aquarium sprung a leak at about 2am while we were asleep. The water ran along the wires from its light, filter, etc. down to the power strip and tripped the RCD. My PC's UPS cut-in and its loud beeping woke me up. I turned on the room light to find that it was the RCD had tripped and not a power cut. When I headed for the utility room to reset it, I could hear what sounded like a burst pipe. Indeed it was panic time to rescue the fish and clean up the flood. Thankfully with the help of a few dehumidifiers and fans, there was no damage other than the aquarium.
Besides that incident, it's also surprising the number of white good appliances we had that failed with a ground fault, e.g. our last fridge, chest freezer, deep fryer, panel heater, etc. failed with a near zero Ohm resistance between the plug's live pin and the exposed metal of the appliance.
Yes, RCD can be quite handy :). Unless it keeps tripping for no reason. I experienced just few ground faults. Once we installed a new light and it was tripping the breakers. A mounting screw accidentaly cut into the cable. Once I had a ground fault in a classic fluorescent fixture. The winding of the magnetic ballast shorted to the metal core and thus to the metal body of the fixture. Having no RCD, the winding was just burning and didn't trip anything. The resistance of about half of the winding that happened between live and ground, wasn't enough to trip a 16A breaker.
Older instalations (TN-C) used just 2 wires - one live and one wire as both ground and neutral, called PEN. When the PEN broke, all grounded appliances became live via the impedance of the appliances. This is why TN-C was abandoned and new instalations are TN-S (3 wire).
You're right, it may actually be TN-C-S, but it is often confused :)
It's got water in it at the ends, but how did it get there, because as we know, it's waterproof!
Or is it eBay sellers and/or Chinese manufacturers telling us lies?
Finally someone thought of the moths stuxk in the tub
You are amazing!
What was the IP rating for that LED light strip?
Probably not much, given how the LED strip filled with water... so definitely not waterproof!
can someone help me ? I couldnt understand how you measured current
You add a very low, say 2 Ohm, resistor in series and the voltage drop across this resistor will correspond to the current flowing through it. He would have connected the two end of the oscilloscope probe at the two ends of this low resistance resistor.
what does he says at 0:49?
It sounds a bit dodgy
6:30 I like your mini-swimming pool.
saudações do Brasil + like. simplesmente Luminoso... sem gatos dessa vez... sucesso.
Český bigclive
Cool stuff man, and nice Variac :) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autotransformer#Variable_autotransformers
Wish, I could find a decent one for a fair price.
(3rd World Syndrome: if it's there it ain't affordable and there are no alternatives!)
Sadly, Variacs are quite expensive. A new 250V 10A variac costs about 250 USD. Even a 50 years old working one costs about 60 USD. I was lucky to get a faulty one with a broken contact for 25 USD and fix it myself.
(1st World Syndrome: You can buy everything. You don't have to build or fix anything and you don't learn anything.)
Thanks a lot :)
so we know the 1sy and 3d world syndromes, now we need to know what is going on with the 2nd?! ;D
This is why I cancelled it to put in my garden fountain.....i make 12 volt DC RGB .....one
but it probably means waterproof from rain etc -- to light up it on outdoor air/ There is no IP class proof
Looks safe enough to me.
Err. I am now getting really worried. Rectified mains. Unless that is far far safer than true dc do I really want that in effectively home made enclosures? I was always taught 200v dc was utterly lethal, and I don’t consider Uk mains to be anything like lethal (normally). Is rectified ac more like ac from a muscle spasm throw you away from the source point of view or is it as dangerous as dc? Great video by the way.
0:26 mítr😂😂
Green FTW
You can use autotransformer to test SMPS.
100 Hz flicker not visible the human eye? I have a lot of LED lights in my house at this point, some from the store, some I made myself, and I'm in America, so it's 120 Hz with full bridge rectifier, I still notice the flicker all the time. I went to Ireland a while ago and the flicker was so bad there with the 50Hz power, I dunno how you guys can stand it.
I don't know exactly, but probably ONE receptor in the eye, pixel so to say, can't respond to 100 Hz flicker, but the ones adjacent to it could be triggered with some delay. We can see the stroboscopic effect if we move our eyes/head fast enough, which wouldn't be possible if the image in the whole we perceive were filtered below 50 Hz or so. So I belive we can see and our brain can process way faster movements than 100 Hz, just proably the same "pixel" can't react that fast.
And I totally agree with you, flickering lights are very uncomfortable, can cause headache.
The same issue is on the roads as well, those VW and Audi red tail lights that are using PWM without filtering are distracting at best...
5 warning
1 prohibition
1 mandatory sign
Like!
dobrej bazén xd
Led na água
Do you always have to break up everything, even if it works quite well?
Why not?
For Science!!
DiodeGoneWild disassembles it, and completes a thorough teardown, so you don't have to. :)
Or better still, buy something better. :)
😱😱😱😱😱
so you said the leds are rated *420* mA 😏
Mains LED strips, always dodgy...
Swimming pool💀💀
Mini swimming pool with conductive ladder
Yeah don't trust eBay shit.
co jsi s tím zbytkem udělal ? :-)
LIKE #3
You did not reply me on my previous question that I told about a mistake
Very Dodgyyyyyyyyyyyyyy....
RGB xd
Maybe only the leds are waterproof, not the mains cable!
Interesting video, but you have a weird accent.
cuz he is not a native english speaker