All I would add is a Ccv reroute so you don’t blow out an oil pan gasket learned my lesson lol billet inter cooler because stock is doo doo and poured coolant into my turbo and blew my turbo and over heated and blew up my trans because by the time I could pull over it was F’ed and a billet fuel filter housing because the stock plastic housing with vibration over time is known for cracking and can get hot enough to start a fire and nobody wants their investment burning down and I would consider if anyone does a lot of towing a mishimoto trans cooler to stack with the stock one because the stock one under heavy load has gotten a little hotter than I’d prefer personally with pulling tractors for our farm
I would add the HSM upper fuel filter upgrade. Retro fits from Ford plastic filter to Baldwin (and others) SPIN ON filters. Eliminates possible plastic filter failing and spraying diesel in engine compartment. Also recommend FORSCAN to eliminate the “Ford ding ding” when entering the vehicle. Nice list of upgrades.
My top mod Banks iDash(super gauge or Data Monster) the info helps you monitor the truck's health😉...Best bang for your buck mod is Banks Pedal Monster😁...If you like the sound of a cold air intake you'll love the growl that the Pusher PowerFlow Intake & Turbo Inlet gives you🤗...since I did the pusher next was the S&S DCR for the peace of mind...others are PPE lower oil pan...(HSM) hot & cold side charge tubes...Banks CAI & Derringer...SPE ccv reroute...BEM locking fuel & def caps
I would like to add an banks, monster exhaust, and the rear differential cover, because it’ll do you some wonders once you put those things on with the rest of the mods. oh, and some air dogs lift pump and sump. trust me it can help out your factory lift pump a lot better.
@@powerstrokemaintenance seems to run smoother though that just maybe me overthinking it. I do notice less oil drips under my truck. Only drop now is from the tube the reroute vents out of
I went with the Banks air filter replacement. It works better and their engineering. Also, replaced both the cold and hot side return pipes from S&B. Replaced both front and rear differential covers from BANKS that allow better view of fluid levels, and drain and fill is the best!
Sorry, no. I misspoke about both front and rear were from BANKS. The rear is from Banks, but the front is from PPE Diesel Products. Not sure why Banks doesn’t do both. However, the PPE front works the same with easier inspection bolt on top and to fill, and bottom bolt for draining. Amsoil 80W90 is the best replacement fluids.
As a 6.0 owner I am jealous that the most expensive fixes for the 6.7 is a fuel filter or a cold air… other good ones are the Bulletproof Diesel upgraded oil cooler or the crank case vent fix
Depends how much you want to spend. The Bilstein 5100 series stabilizer is a good budget option at about $100, and it fits the OEM configuration. If you want to spend more you could get the Fox ATS for $450 that clamps on to your drag link. The last and best option (in my opinion) is the Carli suspension low mount stabilizer that attaches to your front diff and tie rod. But it’s $600 haha hope that helps!
Fox says you should have them serviced at 50K. That to me sounds a bit excessive (and expensive) for on road use. I am planning to run mine until 75 or 100k and then have them serviced. I also check for leaks regularly around the shock shafts
@@powerstrokemaintenance Same here on leak checks. So far so good and they still pass the bounce test, but the ride quality has degraded just a lil bit.
If you don't drive on the thruway, or do longer trips where the truck can do it itself. It won't do a Regen just putting around in the city on short lil trips. When the dpf gets full of the junk it's collecting inside, it needs to do a Regen to heat it up inside(actually sprays diesel fuel in exhaust to burn it away)enough to burn up the deposits inside. Hope this helps. 👍🛠️👌🔥⚠️
Put a lid on that air filter box all you’re doing is sucking in all that hot air not good and get the s and b kit so you can put the filter up front and battery behind it
The filter box is sealed by the top of the hood. I agree tho it’s a poor design. The truck came with it installed when I purchased. Planning to switch to the Banks system soon.
your intake air is still limited by the liquid cooled CAC, so whatever that temp + compression is going to heat your air still...just a thought, and thinking this 20 years ago when i purchased my first diesel - a 2004 F350 6.0L powerstroke.
@@willb7975 that is a good point and very over looked. While some intakes do actually help bring in a cooler denser air charge to the turbo most do not.
I have a very nice 2016 F350 Powerstroke that needs a new engine. I'm told "At least 6 months" is an expected wait for the 6.7 Ford engine. Does anyone know of a source for a complete Ford engine? Most appreciate. Ben
Sorry to hear that! You should check out Monster Engines or Dave's Auto Center. They have a channel here on TH-cam and are located in Utah. Their rebuild quality is insane from what I've seen.
What upgrades would you add to this list?
Underglow for sure
For sure lol
60 gallon fuel tank and AGM batteries
All I would add is a Ccv reroute so you don’t blow out an oil pan gasket learned my lesson lol billet inter cooler because stock is doo doo and poured coolant into my turbo and blew my turbo and over heated and blew up my trans because by the time I could pull over it was F’ed and a billet fuel filter housing because the stock plastic housing with vibration over time is known for cracking and can get hot enough to start a fire and nobody wants their investment burning down and I would consider if anyone does a lot of towing a mishimoto trans cooler to stack with the stock one because the stock one under heavy load has gotten a little hotter than I’d prefer personally with pulling tractors for our farm
I would add the HSM upper fuel filter upgrade. Retro fits from Ford plastic filter to Baldwin (and others) SPIN ON filters. Eliminates possible plastic filter failing and spraying diesel in engine compartment. Also recommend FORSCAN to eliminate the “Ford ding ding” when entering the vehicle. Nice list of upgrades.
Those are great ones! Thanks for the share!
I did the S&B cold air intake that relocated the passenger side battery so the intake can get the cold air from the front of the truck.
That’s a good one! Thanks for the comment
My top mod Banks iDash(super gauge or Data Monster) the info helps you monitor the truck's health😉...Best bang for your buck mod is Banks Pedal Monster😁...If you like the sound of a cold air intake you'll love the growl that the Pusher PowerFlow Intake & Turbo Inlet gives you🤗...since I did the pusher next was the S&S DCR for the peace of mind...others are PPE lower oil pan...(HSM) hot & cold side charge tubes...Banks CAI & Derringer...SPE ccv reroute...BEM locking fuel & def caps
That's a hell of a list! Your truck set up and upgrades sound dialed
I would like to add an banks, monster exhaust, and the rear differential cover, because it’ll do you some wonders once you put those things on with the rest of the mods. oh, and some air dogs lift pump and sump. trust me it can help out your factory lift pump a lot better.
Roger that! It seems like everyone loves the banks products. They seem very legit 👌
I did the Banks Derringer and Pedal Monster with the idash and it is awesome! Also did the Banks MAP sensor relo to keep the sensor cleaner.
Nice video: I did the disaster kit by S&S and have the cold air intake. I did a ccv reroute to save my seals and turbo. Maybe look into that. 👍👍👍
I certainly will! It seems like the CCV reroute is a popular one. Have you noticed any difference in how the truck runs since you did yours?
@@powerstrokemaintenance seems to run smoother though that just maybe me overthinking it. I do notice less oil drips under my truck. Only drop now is from the tube the reroute vents out of
Gotcha! That would make sense tho, less oil gunk gumming up the works
I went with the Banks air filter replacement. It works better and their engineering. Also, replaced both the cold and hot side return pipes from S&B. Replaced both front and rear differential covers from BANKS that allow better view of fluid levels, and drain and fill is the best!
You were able to put the ram air diff cover on your front axle?
Sorry, no. I misspoke about both front and rear were from BANKS. The rear is from Banks, but the front is from PPE Diesel Products. Not sure why Banks doesn’t do both.
However, the PPE front works the same with easier inspection bolt on top and to fill, and bottom bolt for draining. Amsoil 80W90 is the best replacement fluids.
That makes sense! Running PPE to make it easier to drain and fill seems like a good idea
As a 6.0 owner I am jealous that the most expensive fixes for the 6.7 is a fuel filter or a cold air… other good ones are the Bulletproof Diesel upgraded oil cooler or the crank case vent fix
Those are good ones! Haha and yes the 6.7 is much cheaper to upgrade
Banks throttle monster is a must.
That’s a good one!
My 19 XLT came without leather but with upfitter switches And a 6speed
Nice!
What brand steering stabilizer?
Depends how much you want to spend. The Bilstein 5100 series stabilizer is a good budget option at about $100, and it fits the OEM configuration. If you want to spend more you could get the Fox ATS for $450 that clamps on to your drag link. The last and best option (in my opinion) is the Carli suspension low mount stabilizer that attaches to your front diff and tie rod. But it’s $600 haha hope that helps!
PSM How many miles you expecting out of the Fox Shocks? Mine, 2016 Lariat FX4 came with Ranchos still holding up purt good at 73K.
Fox says you should have them serviced at 50K. That to me sounds a bit excessive (and expensive) for on road use. I am planning to run mine until 75 or 100k and then have them serviced. I also check for leaks regularly around the shock shafts
@@powerstrokemaintenance Same here on leak checks. So far so good and they still pass the bounce test, but the ride quality has degraded just a lil bit.
Gotcha! I guess that makes sense with how many miles you’ve put on them
@@powerstrokemaintenance Serviced...does that mean replace or is there a maintenance kit?
I think there’s a maintenance kit where they replace the damper seals, but I’m not certain
PSM am interested in changing out the cabin and/or other comfort related filters. @70K+ and not yet done, probably should. Dusty out this way.
Yes! Especially if it's dusty I would change your cabin filter asap. It seems like 50K-70k is the change interval that most use.
@@powerstrokemaintenance A vid would make it easier. Just saying
Ah gotcha! I’ll make one in the near future. Thanks for the suggestion
@@powerstrokemaintenance Found other vids on cabin filter so another would be duplicative.
Ah gotcha! Thanks for the suggestion anyways!
What air pressure are you running in your tires?
50 PSI front and rear when unloaded. 60 PSI when loaded and door sticker when towing at max GVWR
How do you do a regen? My 19 just does it automatically... or is there something I don't know?
With a scanner or laptop w\ ForScan
@tdotw77 oh... why would you want to do that?
If you don't drive on the thruway, or do longer trips where the truck can do it itself. It won't do a Regen just putting around in the city on short lil trips. When the dpf gets full of the junk it's collecting inside, it needs to do a Regen to heat it up inside(actually sprays diesel fuel in exhaust to burn it away)enough to burn up the deposits inside. Hope this helps. 👍🛠️👌🔥⚠️
Solid explanation, I couldn't have said it any better! Thanks for the comments!
Put a lid on that air filter box all you’re doing is sucking in all that hot air not good and get the s and b kit so you can put the filter up front and battery behind it
The filter box is sealed by the top of the hood. I agree tho it’s a poor design. The truck came with it installed when I purchased. Planning to switch to the Banks system soon.
your intake air is still limited by the liquid cooled CAC, so whatever that temp + compression is going to heat your air still...just a thought, and thinking this 20 years ago when i purchased my first diesel - a 2004 F350 6.0L powerstroke.
@@willb7975 that is a good point and very over looked. While some intakes do actually help bring in a cooler denser air charge to the turbo most do not.
I have that S&B. It makes sense to have it at the front
I have a very nice 2016 F350 Powerstroke that needs a new engine. I'm told "At least 6 months" is an expected wait for the 6.7 Ford engine. Does anyone know of a source for a complete Ford engine? Most appreciate. Ben
Sorry to hear that! You should check out Monster Engines or Dave's Auto Center. They have a channel here on TH-cam and are located in Utah. Their rebuild quality is insane from what I've seen.
What about the Falcon 1.1 ?
Falcon 1.1?
hey! looks clean boi
Hey thanks mate!