I found damaged flat hollow core doors are discounted at Home Depot. Glue a sheet of 1/2 inch MDF or plywood to them. They make agreat assembly table or portable work surface. They get beat up just glue on a new piece. Almost as good as a torsion box.
I’ve been using a 3/4” sheet of melamine as the top layer of my assembly table. Wood glue won’t stick to it and it’s easy to scrape up once it’s dried.
@@GarageMuzik I don't know where you live (and it's been a couple years) but you couldn't get construction grade for $35 a sheet, and that's neither particularly flat or AT ALL smooth. I'd be happy to see furniture grade plywood that cheap though...
I used to work in a high volume laminate cabinet shop. The *very best* way to hold contact cemented pieces apart while positioning is a clean round extension cord. You lay it back and forth over the substrate maybe 6” apart…the set the laminate on top of the cord. When ready to join start pulling the cord out as you press down. Big sheets use 2 cords and work from the middle out. This works 10x better than sticks, or slip sheets, or anything else I have ever used. I told Izzy Swan about it yrs ago - he has a video showing it or at least used to.
I've been doing laminate for 40 yrs the best thing about using cords is you can do any shape or size. dowels or blinds work ok but sometimes they are a pain to use.
Top tip for franks top tip fir the plastic, fold one end back on itself, you can then pull the plastic back as you go rubbing down the laminate rather than lifting the laminate up works a treat and i learnt it from a bloke called Pete 👍
I use a long (50') extension cord, cleaned and placed on the top of the surface in a back and forth S pattern. I then start at on end and press the laminate down, roll it firmly, and then begin the pull the cord out, 1 S at a time.
Just a tip...use white Plam. Doubles as an "erase board" I have measurements and notes written all over my white assembly/out-feed table. Erases with DA or lacquer thinner
I used the plastic trick whenever I was bringing two sheets of laminate together on a single plane because it is much easier to align. The first time I did it I transitioned to just using that method for laminating. That is until I noticed I was getting bubbles more often as air was prone to getting trapped. Not a difficult fix but was annoying enough I switched back to using dowls for the majority of my lamination. I only use the plastic where alignment is a higher priority. Definitely a handy trick to have in my holster though.
Just a foot note, when you are trimming the edge of the Formica, keep an eye on the bearing on the router bit. It tends to collect the contact adhesive and will keep it from spinning freely. Also use a good file to flush the edge after you run the router.
I’ll take the plastic sheet and trial it myself. However the choice of top, “cheapest material” not so much, it’s warped. You can see it in the trimming procedure
I've laid miles of laminate in my time. I pull a long extension cord through a rag and loop it in waves. Lay the laminate on top of the cord to get your alignment and start at one end pulling the cord out as you press it down. Guaranty bubble free. Use particle core not plywood as a substrate. Plywood is susceptible to delamination and will telegraph the grain. When using waterborne contact take your fingernail and scratch the surface (outside the area being glued) If it skins up like pealing a sunburn , it's not ready yet. Get down at eye level and look across each glued surface and look for any particles that may have been picked up. Nothing worse then getting a bubble from a tiny wood particle.
Awesome technique. I did the same thing, and it came out amazing! Love the look of flat black formika set against the dense plywood. Added some dog holes and👌🏽
Seems more like a craft table a having all those screws in the top would be a problem in a wood shop again my opinion - also did the laminate show the screws below once it was drawn down to the table surface?
Because they're overkill. As the first guy to post a torsion box on YouTUbe I'm certainly guilty of encouraging people to build them. :) But over the years I've realized they're totally unnecessary. But if you have the time, budget, and desire, no one can fault you for wanting the flattest surface possible.
I found damaged flat hollow core doors are discounted at Home Depot. Glue a sheet of 1/2 inch MDF or plywood to them. They make agreat assembly table or portable work surface. They get beat up just glue on a new piece. Almost as good as a torsion box.
I'm getting ready to put 2 sheets of 3/4 plywood as my workbench top, I thought I only needed glue to secure them. If I need screws as well, what spacing is needed?
Hi Marc. Did the solid wooden edges come with the second sheet (you know, the flat and cheap one) or the formica? I like how you roll......the formica 😂😂😂 You're welcome.
They make 5 gallon spray tanks for that contact cement. It speeds up the process quite a bit. I also recommend a “PlASTI-CUT” file. It has a cutting edge where you can do essentially do the same thing as the router only by hand and you can get in tight areas and square off corners where the router can’t reach. It has a side for removing material and a side for finishing. They also make a wax you can apply to the router bits that helps with the adhesive gumming up the bearings.
Not to nit pick, but I’d put the top sheet face down then glue then the bottom sheet then screw it. I’d let it fully dry then remove the screws, then I’d flip it over and laminate the top. If those screws aren’t perfectly level with the surface of the ply those voids will get smashed, also, if for some reason you cut through the top with a saw you don’t want your blade hitting a screw.
Not a bad idea. I always used 30" long pieces of 1/4" x 3/4" cabinet scribe, spaced about 7" apart. Let's you slide the glued laminate around, you can pull the sticks from the wall out or from out in to get it tight.
I don't recommend the plastic sheet method for laying laminate. Can it be done? Yes, but you have to be VERY careful. Plastic tends to pick up a static charge. This can make sawdust stick to it. The last thing you want is trash getting stuck under your laminate, causing lumps.
I’m not sure if it’s important but shouldn’t you screw down the table from the center out? That way you push any trapped air pockets out. In the video it looks as though one guy started on the edge while the other started in the middle. Again if you saw the stuff I’ve built you’d still be laughing.
There is a much easier way no plastic no sticks. Start on the shorter side n roll the sheet over ur head. Then slowly let it fall down. Done it a million times when i did cabinet work🤙
I don’t man it looks ok my opinion doesn’t matter just one of a few things I don’t care for is the screws and the Formica not sure what’s going on there
I'm having a super hard time understanding what's happening with the plastic. They pull it out too fast. Wouldn't one sheet of plastic get glue on it from both sides?
It's not drooping at all. 10" of overhang on the long edge and 12" of overhang on the short edge is definitely not sketchy when you're talking about a layup of two sheets of plywood with hardwood edging.
Black tops are sexy, but white ones can be drawn on. In my experience, white melamine serves its intended shop purpose far long enough to yield a significant cost benefit compared to application of horizontal grade laminate.
Yeah I don’t draw on my tables. I have rolls of paper if I need to make large drawings, which has the added benefit of being movable or permanent if I need the drawing for something in the future, like a template. And because I film, black works out a lot better for me.
I don't understand the point of several layers of, what seems like, expensive materials. Throw a second layer of mdf for a sacrificial surface. Whatever.
![ลองสั่งของจากแอพ temu ถูกจริงหรอ?? ( part : 1/2 ) [โกงไหมครับ ep.89 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RTcZSQTiDZw/mqdefault.jpg)
Can you elaborate on the secret source for sheet goods that are “flat and cheap”?
I’m still searching for that as well. I’ll let you know if I find it!
At this point it might as well be like the old speakeasys were. Gotta know somebody and have the password.
Not in this part of the world (Portugal).LOL
I found damaged flat hollow core doors are discounted at Home Depot. Glue a sheet of 1/2 inch MDF or plywood to them. They make agreat assembly table or portable work surface. They get beat up just glue on a new piece. Almost as good as a torsion box.
@@AnthonyStabler great idea though I really want to build some cabinets and I don’t think that’s going to cut it. :)
I’ve been using a 3/4” sheet of melamine as the top layer of my assembly table. Wood glue won’t stick to it and it’s easy to scrape up once it’s dried.
I use an 1/8" or 3/16" tempered masonite thats screwed down. If you mess it up, just unscrew it and put down a new one.
To me, that's the best way.
Same. When it gets destroyed just replace it with a new $30 sheet of melamine. When I'm using the track saw I just drop 1" foam sheet on there
That plastic bit is genius. I'll def be adding that to my book of tricks.
"must be flat and cheap" uses $1000 worth of plywood
@@GarageMuzik I don't know where you live (and it's been a couple years) but you couldn't get construction grade for $35 a sheet, and that's neither particularly flat or AT ALL smooth. I'd be happy to see furniture grade plywood that cheap though...
I used to work in a high volume laminate cabinet shop. The *very best* way to hold contact cemented pieces apart while positioning is a clean round extension cord. You lay it back and forth over the substrate maybe 6” apart…the set the laminate on top of the cord. When ready to join start pulling the cord out as you press down. Big sheets use 2 cords and work from the middle out. This works 10x better than sticks, or slip sheets, or anything else I have ever used. I told Izzy Swan about it yrs ago - he has a video showing it or at least used to.
Too smart. Thanks for sharing that. Champion
I've been doing laminate for 40 yrs the best thing about using cords is you can do any shape or size. dowels or blinds work ok but sometimes they are a pain to use.
Top tip for franks top tip fir the plastic, fold one end back on itself, you can then pull the plastic back as you go rubbing down the laminate rather than lifting the laminate up works a treat and i learnt it from a bloke called Pete 👍
I've been really looking at doing my own laminate for a decent sized bar. Never tried it but that tip sounds like a gamebreaker
I use a long (50') extension cord, cleaned and placed on the top of the surface in a back and forth S pattern. I then start at on end and press the laminate down, roll it firmly, and then begin the pull the cord out, 1 S at a time.
Just a tip...use white Plam. Doubles as an "erase board" I have measurements and notes written all over my white assembly/out-feed table. Erases with DA or lacquer thinner
Grab some "dry erase" markers. Rubs off easily with a finger. (not the most durable, so be careful to not inadvertently rub off something important)
I have been doing laminate for YEARS - I've NEVER seen this technique before! BRILLIANT!
I advise filling the screw holes before laminating or over time you will see their presence on the surface if not straight away.
I used the plastic trick whenever I was bringing two sheets of laminate together on a single plane because it is much easier to align. The first time I did it I transitioned to just using that method for laminating. That is until I noticed I was getting bubbles more often as air was prone to getting trapped. Not a difficult fix but was annoying enough I switched back to using dowls for the majority of my lamination. I only use the plastic where alignment is a higher priority. Definitely a handy trick to have in my holster though.
Come on Marc, your killin me. I go to all the trouble of building’ your “torsion box” assembly table and now your shortcut in me.
What?
@@ThekiBoranway back Marc did a video on a proper torsion box assembly table top, very impressive and quite involved process.
I need to water my shop and hope it grows a bit wider and longer. Short of that happening I'll probably make a slightly smaller table..
00
I had a ford ranger and despite all the leaks the bed topper had, never grew an inch. So disappointing
@@miles11we did you fertilize it? I mulched the bed of my f150..Took a few days to empty it out into the yard..
@@martinoamello3017 shit I didn't even think of that at the time, I'll give it a shot next time
Just a foot note, when you are trimming the edge of the Formica, keep an eye on the bearing on the router bit. It tends to collect the contact adhesive and will keep it from spinning freely. Also use a good file to flush the edge after you run the router.
I trim it with file first then use router)
I’ll take the plastic sheet and trial it myself. However the choice of top, “cheapest material” not so much, it’s warped. You can see it in the trimming procedure
I’ll standby for the video. Although I’m still standing by for the dining table build you teased awhile ago. Haha. Looking forward to both Marc.
👍 An excellent bigger table made. Thank you very much for sharing.
Just used Formica on my miter station and have an extra sheet for an assembly table. Excited to see the video
I've laid miles of laminate in my time. I pull a long extension cord through a rag and loop it in waves. Lay the laminate on top of the cord to get your alignment and start at one end pulling the cord out as you press it down. Guaranty bubble free. Use particle core not plywood as a substrate. Plywood is susceptible to delamination and will telegraph the grain. When using waterborne contact take your fingernail and scratch the surface (outside the area being glued) If it skins up like pealing a sunburn , it's not ready yet. Get down at eye level and look across each glued surface and look for any particles that may have been picked up. Nothing worse then getting a bubble from a tiny wood particle.
That looks so good! The plastic trick seems like it worked like [chef's kiss]!
Beautiful work, very well played!
should you seal the bottom to prevent bowing from uneven exposure to humidity, or is there enough plywood so that you don't need to worry about that?
Awesome technique. I did the same thing, and it came out amazing! Love the look of flat black formika set against the dense plywood. Added some dog holes and👌🏽
Very nice! I love shop update projects.
Seems more like a craft table a having all those screws in the top would be a problem in a wood shop again my opinion - also did the laminate show the screws below once it was drawn down to the table surface?
Why not go with torsion box? I'd like to know the pros and cons.
Because they're overkill. As the first guy to post a torsion box on YouTUbe I'm certainly guilty of encouraging people to build them. :) But over the years I've realized they're totally unnecessary. But if you have the time, budget, and desire, no one can fault you for wanting the flattest surface possible.
I found damaged flat hollow core doors are discounted at Home Depot. Glue a sheet of 1/2 inch MDF or plywood to them. They make agreat assembly table or portable work surface. They get beat up just glue on a new piece. Almost as good as a torsion box.
@The Wood Whisperer Thank you for the reply. I value your opinion. Torsion box really seems like too much trouble.
That's nicer than many people's dining tables
I'm getting ready to put 2 sheets of 3/4 plywood as my workbench top, I thought I only needed glue to secure them. If I need screws as well, what spacing is needed?
Hi Marc. Did the solid wooden edges come with the second sheet (you know, the flat and cheap one) or the formica? I like how you roll......the formica 😂😂😂
You're welcome.
Nice job! Wish I had the room for one!
I don’t find plywood very flat, after you laminate it you can see and feel waves in it…I’ve resorted to using 3/4 MDF as it’s perfectly flat
I’ve never seen anyone use plastic. That was a pretty good trick.
It's almost a shame to make any kind of mess on it. Beautiful
The most important tool in any shop!
Very fine work!
Tightbond 3 is is for exterior use. Why would you use it on a work bench?
I've used sticks... plastic sheeting works, as long as it doesn't stick
Good to hear that people aren’t gate keeping tricks of the trade 🔥
They make 5 gallon spray tanks for that contact cement. It speeds up the process quite a bit. I also recommend a “PlASTI-CUT” file. It has a cutting edge where you can do essentially do the same thing as the router only by hand and you can get in tight areas and square off corners where the router can’t reach. It has a side for removing material and a side for finishing. They also make a wax you can apply to the router bits that helps with the adhesive gumming up the bearings.
Not to nit pick, but I’d put the top sheet face down then glue then the bottom sheet then screw it. I’d let it fully dry then remove the screws, then I’d flip it over and laminate the top. If those screws aren’t perfectly level with the surface of the ply those voids will get smashed, also, if for some reason you cut through the top with a saw you don’t want your blade hitting a screw.
Frank AKA CarpenterOne3 is the man!
I used 2×6 from 1999 I had to belt sand them from the very dark color they were garage kept so the table turned out good
I need a nice big shop for an assembly table. 😂😂
Not nocking your methods but start with one corner, and align it. You don't need two people to laminate a 4x 8 or 4x10. Faster production.
How do you maintain flatness with a wood product over such a large span?
Not a bad idea. I always used 30" long pieces of 1/4" x 3/4" cabinet scribe, spaced about 7" apart. Let's you slide the glued laminate around, you can pull the sticks from the wall out or from out in to get it tight.
I was looking at this style "lab" table for a work surface.... Much too expensive. This will help greatly, thanks!
Use tempered masonite and screw it down. Makes for a great disposable work surface and can be easily replaced.
Did that guy Frank had a bunny suit?
But, but… the torsion box top ??? 😂😂😂
Pretty darn slick!
Are you going to drill it for bench dogs also?
Nope.
I don't recommend the plastic sheet method for laying laminate. Can it be done? Yes, but you have to be VERY careful. Plastic tends to pick up a static charge. This can make sawdust stick to it. The last thing you want is trash getting stuck under your laminate, causing lumps.
Nice table but can you replace the top when it becomes damaged or worn?
Yup!
Wow, wouldn't it be great to have space for such a thing! Does any home/garage weekend warrior woodworker have space for such a thing? Free to dream!
Put the glue on the substrate last. It dries faster.
Why TB 3 if fact we only use 1 unless it's for a laminate 😅
I have mine 5x10. Better for assembly big projects
What screws did you use?
How will you add work holding devices to that flat surface now?
I won't. That's not it's purpose.
@@woodwhisperer Would you show or tell us about how you plan to use it, please?
Throw a Stabila level passed the edges and check all around for gaps. Screws tension tend to pull plywood out of square. Hope its dead flat.
I’m not sure if it’s important but shouldn’t you screw down the table from the center out? That way you push any trapped air pockets out. In the video it looks as though one guy started on the edge while the other started in the middle.
Again if you saw the stuff I’ve built you’d still be laughing.
She pulled out quick.
Do you need glue with that many screws?
I used free mdf from the buttom of the good mdf pallet
Starting to think about a BAT myself, so I'm looking forward to this video.
Looks AWESOME! How did you level the first sheet?
I laid it down on a flat base.
@@woodwhisperer nice! I've seen people using lasers and parallel bar methods, must be so much easier to already have a flat reference pane around.
Oh she’s a beaut Clark!!!
Nice Work, Mark.
Why would you not just buy a piece of melamine? It works great as cheap or cheaper and just put one piece.
Wouldn't that chamfer make it easier for the top layer to peel up at the edge?
There is a much easier way no plastic no sticks. Start on the shorter side n roll the sheet over ur head. Then slowly let it fall down. Done it a million times when i did cabinet work🤙
What? A sheet of plastic between the parts? Is it this enough to allow the glues to penetrate?
No dog holes or t track functionality?
Why use laminate on a work table? Bare wood can be resanded periodically to take of scratches and stains
if you are going to use two sheets, why not just make a torsion box?
Great. Black here, too.
3/4” plywood is $100/4x8 sheet in Ontario Canada 😢
Nice!
Where you get the laminate?
Who doesn’t know about the plastic film trick? It’s everywhere…. Screen protectors, car wraps, tinted windows, I could go on
Love that plastic sheet idea.
I don’t man it looks ok my opinion doesn’t matter just one of a few things I don’t care for is the screws and the Formica not sure what’s going on there
I didn't see the Embly part😂
That plastic trick is pretty awesome
I'm having a super hard time understanding what's happening with the plastic. They pull it out too fast. Wouldn't one sheet of plastic get glue on it from both sides?
That unsupported overhang looks sketchy, like it's already drooping, but that could be the camera lens. Still, seems like too much.
It's not drooping at all. 10" of overhang on the long edge and 12" of overhang on the short edge is definitely not sketchy when you're talking about a layup of two sheets of plywood with hardwood edging.
so you put a 1X2 on the edges?
it's a 3/4" thick hardwood strip.
That is the most elaborate and tedious work bench build I've ever seen.
Why two layers of sheet lumber? Stability?
That and just overall heft.
Black tops are sexy, but white ones can be drawn on. In my experience, white melamine serves its intended shop purpose far long enough to yield a significant cost benefit compared to application of horizontal grade laminate.
Yeah I don’t draw on my tables. I have rolls of paper if I need to make large drawings, which has the added benefit of being movable or permanent if I need the drawing for something in the future, like a template. And because I film, black works out a lot better for me.
So if you use stainless screws are you superman???LOL
“Flat AND cheap “ sheet-goods do not exist 😂 I only know of “flat and expensive” or “wavy as the friggin Ocean and cheap”
did you leave the screws in? just in case you sawed into the top by accident 😉
No one will saw on this table.
@@woodwhisperer 🤣
Great job I want to build one
Vacuum pressing?
Then you don't need the screws.
Plastic is the best way to laminate!
Or just use that J roller, skip the table assembly and have a chill weekend.
No screws, only glue and clamps and weight and then dog hole the crap out of it.
I don't understand the point of several layers of, what seems like, expensive materials. Throw a second layer of mdf for a sacrificial surface. Whatever.
Nice job!
People talking shit about the gun being pump, but he's doing more work with it than most Americans do with their semi autos.
Why use laminate? Bare plywood is better. You can screw into it.
I guess it depends on how you use it. I have no reason to screw into the top, so laminate is far better.