Ciaran O'Loughlin I know what you mean, it was definitely a 135 not industrial it had those parts from an industrial model bolted on to it. But was a standard 135
Unbelievable job! Very thorough. Are u self taught or are u a mechanic by trade? Looks like you could do rebuild blindfolded at this stage! Was that an original 135 or industrial version? Best wishes from Ireland
Turned out beautiful! Ive got an Coventry? built 135 here in Canada with the older style fenders. Its built like a tank. Also have a 35 with 13000 hours...its a little worn out, everywhere!
Did I see at beginning of video you beating out the diff lock pin on the right side axle tulip that usually seizes into the housing because it has no zerk grease fitting? Did you just antiseize it and hope for the best?
Nicely done! I'm looking at buying a 240, and probably giving it some fresh paint to smarten her up a bit. Could you write me a couple quick sentences on what you did to prepare the tractor for paint? Did you sand down the tinwork??
Thank you, a 240 is very similar to a 135 with different body panels on it. I have used reproduction parts from sparex and agriline because the body panels where not good enough to repair and use again. When buying body panels I try to get them from the same company to try ensure they fit but even then they are still awkward. Depending on the quality of restoration depends on how much work you put in, I was aiming for a high quality restoration. The panels come in red oxide paint so I wet and dry with 400 grit and then fill any imperfections in the body work and sand them back as well, a tad rag to remove any debris, I then spray MF Red 2-3 coats and sand back with 600-800 grit, slowly building up the thickness of the paint and a final top coat. I then using rubbing compound and polish to get a better final finish. Anymore questions please ask...
it was an enamal paint with lots of polishing using a debilbivs spray gun for the final top coats of red and a cheaper sealey spray gun for the grey and silver mist. Ithink the compresor was about 100 liters.
It's nice that people still appreciate good old fashioned, quality engineering. MF 100 series: Probably the best tractors ever to be built.
Great job
Crap music
Johan Van Zyl yes can agree it doesn’t suite it
Would have kept it yellow. Probably an industrial Model?
Ciaran O'Loughlin I know what you mean, it was definitely a 135 not industrial it had those parts from an industrial model bolted on to it. But was a standard 135
Unbelievable job! Very thorough. Are u self taught or are u a mechanic by trade? Looks like you could do rebuild blindfolded at this stage!
Was that an original 135 or industrial version? Best wishes from Ireland
Taught by my dad and experiences. origninal 135 has had various industrial parts bolted to it by the previous owner
Very nice work. I have one 135 and one 130.
Great video bud,currently rebuilding a te 20 up in the highlands myself, looks like you’ve done a great job on her!
Cool video)like 👍
Отличная работа!!👍👍👍
Turned out beautiful! Ive got an Coventry? built 135 here in Canada with the older style fenders. Its built like a tank. Also have a 35 with 13000 hours...its a little worn out, everywhere!
Chris Topher great little tractors
Coventry built
th-cam.com/video/acUKgj5JmSU/w-d-xo.html
Did I see at beginning of video you beating out the diff lock pin on the right side axle tulip that usually seizes into the housing because it has no zerk grease fitting? Did you just antiseize it and hope for the best?
Remember seeing these at Newark nice work turned out really nice
thank you
Very very good!
Victor Aldrovandi thank you appreciate the comment
Nicely done!
I'm looking at buying a 240, and probably giving it some fresh paint to smarten her up a bit.
Could you write me a couple quick sentences on what you did to prepare the tractor for paint? Did you sand down the tinwork??
Thank you, a 240 is very similar to a 135 with different body panels on it.
I have used reproduction parts from sparex and agriline because the body panels where not good enough to repair and use again. When buying body panels I try to get them from the same company to try ensure they fit but even then they are still awkward.
Depending on the quality of restoration depends on how much work you put in, I was aiming for a high quality restoration. The panels come in red oxide paint so I wet and dry with 400 grit and then fill any imperfections in the body work and sand them back as well, a tad rag to remove any debris, I then spray MF Red 2-3 coats and sand back with 600-800 grit, slowly building up the thickness of the paint and a final top coat.
I then using rubbing compound and polish to get a better final finish.
Anymore questions please ask...
Looks well! just wondering what paint you used and also what size of compressor and what gun you used. Thanks.
it was an enamal paint with lots of polishing using a debilbivs spray gun for the final top coats of red and a cheaper sealey spray gun for the grey and silver mist. Ithink the compresor was about 100 liters.
@@mattevans5949 Thanks
Good
Great work, I love the 135's (I've got 2 myself).
Thank you and they are very favourable tractors.
Nice , I have one also
th-cam.com/video/acUKgj5JmSU/w-d-xo.html
Great job!
Thank you please share
4.4 👍
Is that not a 35 engine
I think the 35 and 135 shared the same Perkins Diesel, no?
Did u use 2k or enamel paint?
Jacob Lester I use original enamel paint for the grey and the red, and polish them back a lot.
I use spar varnish. Takes ages to dry but I have time. Once it's dry spar varnish is very sturdy.
2K paint on this one
th-cam.com/video/acUKgj5JmSU/w-d-xo.html
New tractor