DIY: Ford Ranger 2wd Front Wheel Bearing Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ต.ค. 2024
- Video tutorial on how to replace and preload the front wheel bearing on a Ford Ranger 2wd. If you are removing the wheel bearing, you must remove the caliper carrier, which I do have a video on that particular procedure. This video can also be used for wheel bearing maintenance beyond replacement as wheel bearings do need to be checked and lubricated about every 12,000miles/20,000km or once a year. Proper maintenance intervals will ensure the wheels bearings do not have any premature failures. This particular tutorial was done on a 1998 Ford Ranger regular cab short box 2wd.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-jack
-axle stand
-large interlocking pliers
-pliers
-johnson/breaker bar
-15mm socket
-13mm socket
-24mm socket
-ratchet
-hammer
-wheel bearing grease
-two cotter pins
-degreaser
-rubber gloves (used in the video is Permatex Black 5 mil Nitrile Disposable Gloves #08184)
Procedure:
-the caliper and carrier must be removed in order to remove the wheel bearing
-remove the grease cap using interlocking pliers
-remove the cotter pin which holds the nut into place
-remove the metal retaining cap
-remove the 24mm nut holding the hub assembly into place
-pull the rotor back until the flat washer is flush with the spindle shaft, then push it back
-this will allow us to easily remove the washer and outer wheel bearing
-remove the rotor and hub assembly
-new bearings do come with an outer race which is not needed considering the hub assemblies already have them installed
-take a glob of grease and place it in the palm of your hand
-push the grease throughout the bearing, removing any empty spaces or pockets
-once satisfied, place the inner bearing in its location, then apply some more grease against the bearing and around the edge of the seal
-place the seal in its location and gently tap it in using a hammer on the elevated side
-remove the old grease using some paper towel on the spindle shaft
-use a degreaser if needed as well
-using a wire brush, clean the sealing surface at the end of the spindle shaft
-remove any loose debris which can contaminate the bearing assembly
-give the spindle shaft a final wipe down and install the assembly
-rotate the rotor to help seat the seal, then install the outer bearing, washer, and nut
-rotate the hub which will help seat the bearing while tightening the nut to 17 to 25 ft lbs
-if you are using an inch pound torque wrench such as me, it will be 204 to 300 inch pounds
-back the nut off half a turn
-retorque nut 18 to 20 inch pounds
-make sure there is no play, install the metal retainer cap and orient the cap so the holes line up for the cotter pin
-install a new cotter pin and bent over the ends
-reinstall the grease cap and gently tap it into place using a hammer
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© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.
What makes this video so good is that it gets directly to the point without a lot of story time nonsense!!
Thank you!
is there a washer that goes on be for the axle nut??
Yes there is.
@@4DIYers no, thank you
@@4DIYers00
This is what i wanna see when i look for tutorials!!!
Thank you :)
He's right, this is straight to the point, no bs.
Still helpful many years later! I’ve done everything to my Jetta and ranger. I’ve put this off til my bearings fried coming home one night back in November. Finally getting around to it with the weather and you made me feel confident enough I’m no longer worried! Only worried about rust bolts! Onto the calliper video now because I don’t wanna mess my new ones up! Got the full assembly for breaks on the front including bearings! Once this is done, upper control arms, sway bar links and a fuel filter! I did my valve cover and intake manifold gaskets last year (2.3l) once torn down I never thought it was gunna run again but I did a good job!!!
wow what a professional production
Thank you, I really appreciate the kind words :)
Great video man. Thank you for being straight forward and showing every step instead of just putting new parts on and ignoring how to disassemble the old ones.
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback :)
You should teach at Harvard.
Probably the most calming and instructional tutorial I've seen on the internet. You are the man.
Thank you, I really appreciate the kind words :)
I did this job on my Ford Explorer, good video!😃
However, I would recommend putting some grease on inside of rotor hub before installing bearing and seal as well as putting a nice, thorougly coated layer of grease on the spindle shaft before mounting rotor, just to ensure nothing goes dry inside. And maybe put three fingers full of grease inside dust cap to act as a reservoir.
I own a 2000 ford ranger 3.0 RWD. I want thank you sincerely for making this video. My truck was riding terribly. I had it balanced several times with no success until I researched further and came across your video. I looked at your video several times to make sure I performed everything correctly and did wonder why the torquing, back off, and re-torquing. The bearings were in such bad shape I could remove them with my fingers. Before I did this: terrible ride, braking, handling, and even the gas mileage. Since replacement of the bearings and repacking: a more composed ride, better handling, gas mileage, and simply just a better planted vehicle on the road. I should have done this years ago. I under why you tightened, loosened, and re-tightened the main: enough to hold, but enough to allow the wheel to spin with no resistance. No more bottoming out or jiggling over bumps and/or potholes. Thank you and bless you for sharing your knowledge. Also for boosting my confidence in myself so I could fix my truck and help my family:)
Before you changed out the bearings, did it make any noise when you drove the truck?
was just quoted $2-300 to get mine replaced. seeing as the parts are only $50ish and you make it look so easy, I think I'll do it myself! wish me luck
Thank you! Best of luck :)
Where you able to find a kit with all the needed part? I'm only able to find the single parts
I am facing having to do a front brake job and possible bearing replacement, cant find anyone that doesnt have a 2 week lead time! I alwsys did my own repairs until 2014. The first of my 2 strokes. Thanks for the video, looks doable, even for someone in my condition. The only thing I had a difference of opinion on was this. When replacing a bearing. I was told you HAD to replace the race as well, no matter what. That is why they come as a matched set. Otherwise, a concise, well produced, easy to understand video! Great job!
Nice video, I recently moved and sold my tools - bought a used Ranger. A shop quoted me $300 to replace front wheel bearings. I wondered, WTH??? I'm getting a floor jack, and stands, wish I never sold them. Thanks, you're a Ford guy, who's brain I can pick when I'm unfamiliar...
You're welcome! I've had like 3 Rangers so far lol, this one was my mom's truck. Will be going back to Ford when I can find the truck I want.
Brother thank you for the help! You made it possible for me to get back to work
Great to hear and thank you for the feedback!
A few years ago I made the horrible and teenaged mistake of thinking it would be cool to put spacers on my Ranger. Fuck was I wrong. Today (10-24-18) I was driving on i95 when I started hearing a thudding from my front right and already knew what the hell it was. I had to drive 30 miles aware of this fucked up bearing. When I shut off the truck and jacked it up, all 5 lugs for the wheel were borderline about to fall off from the intense motion the bearing was causing. Turns out that my front right inner bearing got smushed flat on a sizeable chunk of the ring, causing the spindles in the bearing to scatter. I could have fucking died today if I drove a few more miles at 75 mph. Thanks for the video, super concise and a damn easy job
Wow, good thing you caught it in the right time and thank you for the feedback too :)
Thank you for being super direct and efficient in your presentation for this repair.
No problem and thank you for the feedback!
Very clear and to the point. Most people show from how to remove the wheel (really?? if I don't know how to do that I would be attempt the brake roto). I was very confused of the metal ring that come with the new bearing and you point out that they are not needed. Exactly the info I was looking for. Thank you.
Excellent to hear, thank you so much for the feedback! I have plenty more Ranger repair videos as well if you're looking for more tutorials.
Just used your video to install new bearings/rotor on my 1999 Ranger. Really appreciate you taking the time to make this. Made it easy! (By the way, packing bearings is harder than it looks!)
good video, i like how you post the torque specs as i know how to replace the parts but not exactly how tight the bearing needs to be. i used to just go by feel so its good to know the proper values to use
Thank you and happy to help :)
It's very important to set the torque as specified by the manufacturer. Some bearings need precompression, that can mean a high torque, and some do not use any torque at all, just a no-play fit. Never guess the torque for bearings. If you set 100 ft-lbs for a no-play bearing, it will probably seize.
Also, some bearings are made and sold as matched sets. You won't know if you get them from a third party like the auto parts store. You will only know if you get them straight from the bearing manufacturer. As a result, I always change both races when doing the job. It is generally a good practice to change both races at the same time anyhow. The inner race may look fine, but mileage has weakened it. They fail by spalding, that is by flaking off due to repeated compression as the rollers pass.
Thanks so much! I came in from the garage to figure out how to get the race into the hub... never would have occurred to me that it wasn't needed. I'd still be out there banging on it without your tutorial.
No problem, glad to help out! Yeah it depends on the rotor manufacture, whether they include the outer race or not.
Great video! Very helpful, but part numbers in the description would be really nice to have. Thank you for educating
Thank you! I only supply part numbers if I’m using OEM parts. Anything aftermarket I typically don’t post part numbers for.
Thank you. This was very helpful. I was able to do the bearings on our Ranger in about an hour.
Excellent to hear and thank you for the feedback!
Why I love my 2000 Ford ranger, saving money on wheel bearings LOL
I have plenty more Ranger repair videos too ;)
@@4DIYers I've seen both front and rear wheel bearings for rangers and they look the exact same, are they interchangeable?
fantastic clear and concise tutorial. my friends golf mk V wheel bearing needs replacing I noticed yesterday. what happens if you don't get it replaced?
+juman islam Thank you. They will make a loud noise for quite a long time, but after a prolonged period eventually it will cause uneven wearing issues on the tire and possibly steering wandering issues. If left for an extremely long time, the wheel may come off which would mean a complete failure of the bearing.
Thanks! Got mine done in less than an hour with the help of the video.
Awesome to hear :)
Absolutely top notch demonstration. You've gotten a new subscriber! Thanks a million!!
Thank you so much for the kind words and support :)
This Video will definitely help me with my 2011 2WD Ranger. Thank You
Excellent to hear, always happy to help :) I have more Ranger repair videos if you're seeking additional tutorials too.
Just recently did this on my '03 Ford Ranger Edge, and it had a 27mm instead of a 24mm nut. 20in-lbs ain't that much, and it was funny seeing my 1/4" drive torque wrench with the two adapters needed to connect to that big 27mm socket.
Saved my ass on a 98 ranger
Happy I was able to help!
Some additional info from my job on a 2001 Mazda B3000 2WD, in case you were thinking they were the same:
The 24mm bolt for the spindle nut is larger than 25mm, the biggest I have in metric. I am not exactly sure the size, but I was able to use a 1-1/16 in 6-point socket due to low torque value.
Just in case anybody needs to know 27mm fit my 2001 b2300.
Thanks for a quick and easy tutorial, the other vids were really long and some of the stuff I forgot lol
No problem, happy I could help!
Right to the point. Very nice video, and very helpful for me that I'll be performing the same job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge man.
Glad to help and thank you for the feedback :)
Thanks for the very clear and concise tutorial. incidentally, I'm pretty sure you mean retorque to 18~ 20 foot pounds (at about 4:13).
Thank you! Nope, it's 18-20 inch pounds not foot pounds.
OK, Thanks. Glad I asked...so, its torque to 17~25 lbs-ft, back off 1/2 turn and then torque to 18~20 inch-lbs...yeah? Thank you again.
No problem. Yes that is correct. Normally I just do this by hand (used to it), but I pulled the specs right from the manual for anyone wanting to use a torque wrench.
I thought he meant foot pounds too lol. Glad I saw your comment and his correction.
This is a very confusing point because the numbers are so close. Keep in mind the initial set (FOOT pounds) is to help seat the bearing where it belongs. Then you back it off and then retighten to the 20 INCH pounds neighborhood. Some in-lb torque wrenches won't go below 20. This is barely hand snug for most people, including myself. That's why the castlelated cover and cotter pin.
Excellent guide, truck rides better than ever.
Thank you and awesome to hear!
Thanks, that was exactly what I needed to see for my 1986 F150.
Awesome to hear and thank you for the feedback!
Like the video everything was done correctly and to the point other than adding extra grease to the cap filling it 50% gives an extra reservoir of grease to circulate
Thank you. No need to fill the cap with grease though. Grease isn't like oil so it's not supposed to move around or melt unless it's under extreme temperatures.
Thats why I loved my 06 Ranger sport rwd so easy to work on and one less part of a CV axle and did all the suspension repair myself..but unfortunately due to financial crisis I had to sell it was a very good truck that can rival a tacoma for reliability and longevity.
Best channel you get right to the point and you make it easy to understand 💯 👌
94 ranger 27 mm socket for spindle nut. Great video
Thank you!
same for 2006
Same for the 2003..
Dude that was great. Everything was close up and well explained.
Thank you for this to the point professional tutorial! I just subscribed.
Awesome to hear and thank you so much for the support!
Absolute textbook!
Thank you!
Thank you so much.... it was a big help for me replacing my b2200 bearing... Thank you again...
No problem, happy to help :) I have plenty more tutorials on this truck as well.
Thanks a ton! Had to redo the bearings on my Mazda b2000, and this helped a lot
Best one so far...
Thank you :)
Thanks for the video sir with your help I did it myself i learn something new I save some money and it was fun 😊
Awesome to hear and glad to help out :)
very informative, I was replacing mine and wasnt sure about the bearing race and thought id forgot to put them in but like yours they were built in. saved me the work pulling it all apart again. thanks for a great video
No problem, happy to help :)
Great video man!!! Good job imma go replace mine this weekend it's clunking all over the place you're the man I'll be subscribing
Thank you for the compliment and support!
Thank you for being so direct and informative so fast... I had to pause and rewind several times while watching this video, side note I didn't see you install grease in the grease cap is that necessary? and/or do you have to grease the inside of the hub rotor besides packing the bearings?
Thank you for the feedback! Grease isn't necessary in the cap. People do it as a "reserve" where it may melt and fall into the bearing. But the grease used is a high pressure high temp product. If your bearings are getting that hot, there's another issue which needs to be addressed. Extra grease is usually slathered around the bearings when they're installed besides being fully packed.
Thanks!
No problem, don't forget to subscribe :)
Very Helpful thank you for taking the time to do this,
Glad to help out and thank you for the feedback :)
Great video. Right to the point. I highly recommend it.
Thank you :)
Excellent tutorial.
Man I’m going to do this on a 04 sport trac since it’s pretty much the same. The other video I seen by 1a auto I believe it was didn’t give the torque specs and that’s the reason I’m doing this for the 7th time
Straight to the point and very informative thank you very much this helped me a lot
Thank you for much needed instructions!
Glad to help out :)
Great video very helpful i am a little confused. I have just purchased new wheel bearings and seals. Someone told me to make sure I press the wheel bearing races with a special tool. I have no idea what he is talking about can you elaborate. I know in your video you say that the races are installed on the factory rotors. If someone replaced the rotors how would i know if they replaced the races? I was also told if the races arent pressed i will have to replace the bearings again in a few thousand miles. Any help is appreciated thank you!
You don't need a press to install or remove the inner race, but it helps. Remove by tapping evenly from the other side using a hammer and long tool such as a large blunted screwdriver. A perfectly fitting socket works as well. Be very careful to not damage the inner surface where the race seats. The replacement needs to seat all the way in to a precise depth. Nicks and gouges can prevent proper placement.To install be very careful it does not go in crooked. It's easy to cock it. Lay a block of wood across the race and tap with a hammer. When the race gets deep, place the old race over it or a socket and the use the block of wood and hammer. Don't get the old race stuck!
I decided to install the new camber kits on my 98 ranger's upper control arms. Do I need to put the square hole on the camber washers at 12 o'clock position for the alignment guy or does it matter where I put it.
Thanks man! Great detail. Especially about those gloves. Watch alot of ppl on motortrend that use em but never tell ya where u how to get em. The vinyl 1 I get stink. 😆
Thank you :)
Life saver bro!
Thank you!
I wish I had an easy button I could press. Saved me a lot of money 💰
Thanks for the video but I think the outer bearing race should be replaced if using the old rotor.
thank you
You're welcome!
Appreciate the step by step but I have to ask, you said the race comes factory so there’s no need to replace it?
Thank you! No need to replace it. Technically bearings and races should be kept together but they are made within factory specifications so you can use the new bearings with the already preinstalled races.
thanks buddy this video was really helpful!!
No problem, glad to help out :)
Really? 20in-lb plus a pin is enough to hold the wheel on?
Great video btw
Thank you and yes it is. That torque spec maintains the proper clearance in the bearing, otherwise it'll overheat and fail.
I was hoping you would have a upper control arm install with the new camber kits on the older 98 ford rangers. Anyways, I just installed the upper control arms with new ball joints and wanted to know if you knew how much to tighten i.e. torque setting the camber bolts before you put a load on the bushings to do the final torque with tires on the ground. Also wanted to know if there is a way to put the correct preload on the bushings with the tire off the truck
Good day, by any chance do you know what could cause a broken spindle shaft? (Small tapered section where the nut is tighten) i ask because mine was broken on my ranger. Just by turning right going down the curve of my home. Less than a mile glad it did not happen while driving... very instructional video!
I'm glade some one noticed he used the wrong spindle for the replacement..ya need to let the parts guy know if ya have abs or not..just what i ran into ...other then that good vid...
I did not, someone had the wrong rotors installed on the truck.
no problem..it just looked like it had abs sensor on the backing plate..we even talked about abs and the parts guy still gave me the wrong part..it has 4x4 abs rotors instead of 2wd ..it was a fun day.
So I followed this to the T. Note that after changing the rotors my ABS light is on. The slotted metal dish on the inside of the rotor is for the ABS. my new rotors didn't come with it pre installed and I missed it during installation. Not sure if I preded the wrong ones. Oh well guess I'll have to put tape over that light.
It's called the reluctor ring and I have not been able to find the hub assembly and rotor with it on for a 2RWD. I put on the hub assembly and rotor on for a 4WD by mistake and it does NOT work. ABS will activate whenever you brake below 10 mph.
Thanks for the tutorial!!!
Happy to help :)
@@4DIYers what about if i don't have torque ?
Great video!
I have a 2WD Ford Ranger XLT. It doesn't seem to have a metal retainer cap on it which I think is the cause why the nut always loosens over tiime. Do you know where can I purchase online? Tried searching but no luck.
Great job at explaining.😎👍
Subbed and thumbs up.
Thank you so much for the support and kind words :)
Vary well done. I just did same thing and this video helped.
Do you ever recommend replacing your oil pan drain plug with a magnetic one. Dorman makes one #090-036 that I was going to replace it. I usually like the plugs with no rubber washer built into them like ford recommends because I like to put a copper washer on each change but wanted to know your thoughts.
I was just wondering did you need a race/Bearing driver? Or did you just use the bolt to push in the Bearings and seal?
So you don't grease up the inside at all, just the bearings?
Great vid. Can you tell me if you reused the exciter ring or do you buy new ones?
Thank you. A new rotor should be ordered with it. Someone had installed the wrong rotors on this truck, there's no abs sensor on the spindle.
Fantastic video buddy!!
Thank you!
Please note, at about 3:08 you will notice the ABS tone rings on the back of the rotor. Do NOT throw these out, like I did when I replaced my rotors! It did not appear that new tone rings were installed in the new rotors.
You can order rotors when them already installed. These trucks came with and without abs. In my case, someone had installed abs rotors on a truck equipped without abs.
@@4DIYers Ah, that clears up my confusion! Thanks so much for sharing this video!
No problem and thank you!
Thank you so much!
No problem, happy to help :)
Instructions clear
Tried doing this today and wasn’t able to remove the outer wheel bearing it just wouldn’t budge, got any tips for removing it?
Did you not install the outer seal?
Thank youuuu very much
Always happy to help :)
Is a bad wheel bearing feel like when ur driving ur truck or rolling to a stop seem like something is wrong with the tire it makes a vibration while truck is rolling an as u speed up the noise gets a bit louder? If anyone can answer I would greatly appreciate it
Here's my video for diagnosing a faulty wheel bearing th-cam.com/video/QfOfOBZfxlo/w-d-xo.html
My Ranger is a 2004, 2WD, 3.0-L, and it took a 1-1/16" socket for the spindle nut. Just sayin'...
Thank you for sharing. Sometimes there is some minor differences between the years and engine sizes.
18ftLyman yes, mine also
Wish I would have known that I went and made a trip to buy the wrong socket
Thanks!
ya thats for the shitty 3.slow engine.
I am wanting to change my Differential fluid in my 98 Ranger and wanted to know if it is ok to use 100% full synthetic in it. Also wanted to know if it is better to use a Fel-Pro paper gasket or silicone.
Great great great video. Tks
My 98 ranger's frame is badly rusting. Trying to find a cheap alternative to the rust and wanted to know what you use to combat it. I have seen used motor oil, bar and chain oil, and fluid film.
If you're willing to get into a little extra work, you can clean up that rust with a wire wheel, then hit it with a rust converting spray. Apply an epoxy primer and then an implement such as what is used on farm equipment. Then finish up with an oil spray undercoating, here is my video for that th-cam.com/video/cxVV42DYFKQ/w-d-xo.html
Are the inside and outside wheel bearing the same size? Mine came in today and one is quite a bit smaller than the other.
Thanks
Glad to help out!
Do you have a video on how to replace the front steering gear bellow on the older rangers and repack them with grease. My bellow is cracked and just found out that it does not have a grease fitting.
Unfortunately I do not have a video for this.
Nice work :D
Thank you!
Who makes the rotor with the races pre installed?
You ever figure that out? Cause I’m going through the point of someone telling me if I were to just replace the bearing and not the race then I might as well just slap the old bearing back in.
Why did you not replace the inner and outer races on the wheel bearings
I didn't see where you installed the smaller inner bearing. Was it installed in the rotor prior to replacing the bigger bearing and seal?
@2:30 the inner bearing gets installed. It does go in before the seal.
Hello sir do you have to buy new bearings when you buy a rotor or it comes with the Rotor
I recall AutoZone do not, but O' Reillys do... Ask before buying
So I did this job with new rotors and bearings, but unfortunately the dirt cheap bearings I bought let go after about 15k miles and had a ton of play. Bought some high quality timken stuff but didn't replace outer races in rotors... think they'll wear quickly because I didn't replace the outer race? They're pressed in... not sure I'm capable of getting them out
Races are typically matched up with the bearings so you may experience a premature failure.
Just to make absolute clear, there are two sets of bearings, an inner and an outer set, is there any difference in them?
Yes. The outer bearing is smaller. I used a Timken SET 2 on mine. No seal was needed. The inner was a Timken SET 5 for me, and required a seal. None of the three components were more than $5 each. I strongly advise getting good quality rotors with races already installed.
How come you didnt have to use a press to get the wheel bearings in? I'm about to buy the rotor and hub assembly together without bearing inside would this be the same as to what you just installed and I wouldn't need a press. I think it dont come with the back bearings I'm getting them from oreilys for 50 bucks each side.
Hi - I have a question about the inner bearing - I have the same rotors on my Aerostar and I see the races for them both, but the inner bearing even with the inner seal tapped into place, has a lot of play there... will it stay in place on the spindle once it's back on the truck? It just moves around a bit - but just curious if that was normal for it to do that... thanks
Are they still loose when you have the spindle nut torque properly? If so, check to make sure everything is seated correctly and you have the right bearings.
@@4DIYers there would be no way to check to see if they were loose once it's on the spindle - too much new grease there - and I didn't want to poke a screwdriver in there lol - guess they seat and don't move when it's on there, since the ones I took off were the same...... perhaps the spindle is slightly tapered as it goes to the end on the inside... I did the right side today ran out of daylight, so will do the driver side tomorrow - looks exactly the same as how I did them last time from the old hub/rotor but it was so long ago I just couldn't remember that the inner was that loose before it was put on, since the outer doesn't move at all with that washer in place... - BTW for anyone that is reading this - the proper sizes are the #6 for the inner and the #2 for the outer. I only use Timken - Another good tip to get the pins out - don't use a screwdriver - use a 3/8's drive extension... tap the fat part first and then once it's into the bracket, flip it around... fits the channel perfectly...