Still helpful many years later! I’ve done everything to my Jetta and ranger. I’ve put this off til my bearings fried coming home one night back in November. Finally getting around to it with the weather and you made me feel confident enough I’m no longer worried! Only worried about rust bolts! Onto the calliper video now because I don’t wanna mess my new ones up! Got the full assembly for breaks on the front including bearings! Once this is done, upper control arms, sway bar links and a fuel filter! I did my valve cover and intake manifold gaskets last year (2.3l) once torn down I never thought it was gunna run again but I did a good job!!!
Great video man. Thank you for being straight forward and showing every step instead of just putting new parts on and ignoring how to disassemble the old ones.
I did this job on my Ford Explorer, good video!😃 However, I would recommend putting some grease on inside of rotor hub before installing bearing and seal as well as putting a nice, thorougly coated layer of grease on the spindle shaft before mounting rotor, just to ensure nothing goes dry inside. And maybe put three fingers full of grease inside dust cap to act as a reservoir.
I own a 2000 ford ranger 3.0 RWD. I want thank you sincerely for making this video. My truck was riding terribly. I had it balanced several times with no success until I researched further and came across your video. I looked at your video several times to make sure I performed everything correctly and did wonder why the torquing, back off, and re-torquing. The bearings were in such bad shape I could remove them with my fingers. Before I did this: terrible ride, braking, handling, and even the gas mileage. Since replacement of the bearings and repacking: a more composed ride, better handling, gas mileage, and simply just a better planted vehicle on the road. I should have done this years ago. I under why you tightened, loosened, and re-tightened the main: enough to hold, but enough to allow the wheel to spin with no resistance. No more bottoming out or jiggling over bumps and/or potholes. Thank you and bless you for sharing your knowledge. Also for boosting my confidence in myself so I could fix my truck and help my family:)
I am facing having to do a front brake job and possible bearing replacement, cant find anyone that doesnt have a 2 week lead time! I alwsys did my own repairs until 2014. The first of my 2 strokes. Thanks for the video, looks doable, even for someone in my condition. The only thing I had a difference of opinion on was this. When replacing a bearing. I was told you HAD to replace the race as well, no matter what. That is why they come as a matched set. Otherwise, a concise, well produced, easy to understand video! Great job!
Nice video, I recently moved and sold my tools - bought a used Ranger. A shop quoted me $300 to replace front wheel bearings. I wondered, WTH??? I'm getting a floor jack, and stands, wish I never sold them. Thanks, you're a Ford guy, who's brain I can pick when I'm unfamiliar...
Very clear and to the point. Most people show from how to remove the wheel (really?? if I don't know how to do that I would be attempt the brake roto). I was very confused of the metal ring that come with the new bearing and you point out that they are not needed. Exactly the info I was looking for. Thank you.
Just used your video to install new bearings/rotor on my 1999 Ranger. Really appreciate you taking the time to make this. Made it easy! (By the way, packing bearings is harder than it looks!)
A few years ago I made the horrible and teenaged mistake of thinking it would be cool to put spacers on my Ranger. Fuck was I wrong. Today (10-24-18) I was driving on i95 when I started hearing a thudding from my front right and already knew what the hell it was. I had to drive 30 miles aware of this fucked up bearing. When I shut off the truck and jacked it up, all 5 lugs for the wheel were borderline about to fall off from the intense motion the bearing was causing. Turns out that my front right inner bearing got smushed flat on a sizeable chunk of the ring, causing the spindles in the bearing to scatter. I could have fucking died today if I drove a few more miles at 75 mph. Thanks for the video, super concise and a damn easy job
Thanks so much! I came in from the garage to figure out how to get the race into the hub... never would have occurred to me that it wasn't needed. I'd still be out there banging on it without your tutorial.
good video, i like how you post the torque specs as i know how to replace the parts but not exactly how tight the bearing needs to be. i used to just go by feel so its good to know the proper values to use
It's very important to set the torque as specified by the manufacturer. Some bearings need precompression, that can mean a high torque, and some do not use any torque at all, just a no-play fit. Never guess the torque for bearings. If you set 100 ft-lbs for a no-play bearing, it will probably seize. Also, some bearings are made and sold as matched sets. You won't know if you get them from a third party like the auto parts store. You will only know if you get them straight from the bearing manufacturer. As a result, I always change both races when doing the job. It is generally a good practice to change both races at the same time anyhow. The inner race may look fine, but mileage has weakened it. They fail by spalding, that is by flaking off due to repeated compression as the rollers pass.
fantastic clear and concise tutorial. my friends golf mk V wheel bearing needs replacing I noticed yesterday. what happens if you don't get it replaced?
+juman islam Thank you. They will make a loud noise for quite a long time, but after a prolonged period eventually it will cause uneven wearing issues on the tire and possibly steering wandering issues. If left for an extremely long time, the wheel may come off which would mean a complete failure of the bearing.
Some additional info from my job on a 2001 Mazda B3000 2WD, in case you were thinking they were the same: The 24mm bolt for the spindle nut is larger than 25mm, the biggest I have in metric. I am not exactly sure the size, but I was able to use a 1-1/16 in 6-point socket due to low torque value.
Just recently did this on my '03 Ford Ranger Edge, and it had a 27mm instead of a 24mm nut. 20in-lbs ain't that much, and it was funny seeing my 1/4" drive torque wrench with the two adapters needed to connect to that big 27mm socket.
No problem. Yes that is correct. Normally I just do this by hand (used to it), but I pulled the specs right from the manual for anyone wanting to use a torque wrench.
This is a very confusing point because the numbers are so close. Keep in mind the initial set (FOOT pounds) is to help seat the bearing where it belongs. Then you back it off and then retighten to the 20 INCH pounds neighborhood. Some in-lb torque wrenches won't go below 20. This is barely hand snug for most people, including myself. That's why the castlelated cover and cotter pin.
Like the video everything was done correctly and to the point other than adding extra grease to the cap filling it 50% gives an extra reservoir of grease to circulate
Thank you. No need to fill the cap with grease though. Grease isn't like oil so it's not supposed to move around or melt unless it's under extreme temperatures.
I decided to install the new camber kits on my 98 ranger's upper control arms. Do I need to put the square hole on the camber washers at 12 o'clock position for the alignment guy or does it matter where I put it.
Thats why I loved my 06 Ranger sport rwd so easy to work on and one less part of a CV axle and did all the suspension repair myself..but unfortunately due to financial crisis I had to sell it was a very good truck that can rival a tacoma for reliability and longevity.
very informative, I was replacing mine and wasnt sure about the bearing race and thought id forgot to put them in but like yours they were built in. saved me the work pulling it all apart again. thanks for a great video
Great video very helpful i am a little confused. I have just purchased new wheel bearings and seals. Someone told me to make sure I press the wheel bearing races with a special tool. I have no idea what he is talking about can you elaborate. I know in your video you say that the races are installed on the factory rotors. If someone replaced the rotors how would i know if they replaced the races? I was also told if the races arent pressed i will have to replace the bearings again in a few thousand miles. Any help is appreciated thank you!
You don't need a press to install or remove the inner race, but it helps. Remove by tapping evenly from the other side using a hammer and long tool such as a large blunted screwdriver. A perfectly fitting socket works as well. Be very careful to not damage the inner surface where the race seats. The replacement needs to seat all the way in to a precise depth. Nicks and gouges can prevent proper placement.To install be very careful it does not go in crooked. It's easy to cock it. Lay a block of wood across the race and tap with a hammer. When the race gets deep, place the old race over it or a socket and the use the block of wood and hammer. Don't get the old race stuck!
Thank you! No need to replace it. Technically bearings and races should be kept together but they are made within factory specifications so you can use the new bearings with the already preinstalled races.
So I followed this to the T. Note that after changing the rotors my ABS light is on. The slotted metal dish on the inside of the rotor is for the ABS. my new rotors didn't come with it pre installed and I missed it during installation. Not sure if I preded the wrong ones. Oh well guess I'll have to put tape over that light.
It's called the reluctor ring and I have not been able to find the hub assembly and rotor with it on for a 2RWD. I put on the hub assembly and rotor on for a 4WD by mistake and it does NOT work. ABS will activate whenever you brake below 10 mph.
Good day, by any chance do you know what could cause a broken spindle shaft? (Small tapered section where the nut is tighten) i ask because mine was broken on my ranger. Just by turning right going down the curve of my home. Less than a mile glad it did not happen while driving... very instructional video!
I was hoping you would have a upper control arm install with the new camber kits on the older 98 ford rangers. Anyways, I just installed the upper control arms with new ball joints and wanted to know if you knew how much to tighten i.e. torque setting the camber bolts before you put a load on the bushings to do the final torque with tires on the ground. Also wanted to know if there is a way to put the correct preload on the bushings with the tire off the truck
Man I’m going to do this on a 04 sport trac since it’s pretty much the same. The other video I seen by 1a auto I believe it was didn’t give the torque specs and that’s the reason I’m doing this for the 7th time
Thank you for being so direct and informative so fast... I had to pause and rewind several times while watching this video, side note I didn't see you install grease in the grease cap is that necessary? and/or do you have to grease the inside of the hub rotor besides packing the bearings?
Thank you for the feedback! Grease isn't necessary in the cap. People do it as a "reserve" where it may melt and fall into the bearing. But the grease used is a high pressure high temp product. If your bearings are getting that hot, there's another issue which needs to be addressed. Extra grease is usually slathered around the bearings when they're installed besides being fully packed.
Is a bad wheel bearing feel like when ur driving ur truck or rolling to a stop seem like something is wrong with the tire it makes a vibration while truck is rolling an as u speed up the noise gets a bit louder? If anyone can answer I would greatly appreciate it
Do you ever recommend replacing your oil pan drain plug with a magnetic one. Dorman makes one #090-036 that I was going to replace it. I usually like the plugs with no rubber washer built into them like ford recommends because I like to put a copper washer on each change but wanted to know your thoughts.
So I did this job with new rotors and bearings, but unfortunately the dirt cheap bearings I bought let go after about 15k miles and had a ton of play. Bought some high quality timken stuff but didn't replace outer races in rotors... think they'll wear quickly because I didn't replace the outer race? They're pressed in... not sure I'm capable of getting them out
Great video! I have a 2WD Ford Ranger XLT. It doesn't seem to have a metal retainer cap on it which I think is the cause why the nut always loosens over tiime. Do you know where can I purchase online? Tried searching but no luck.
My 98 ranger's frame is badly rusting. Trying to find a cheap alternative to the rust and wanted to know what you use to combat it. I have seen used motor oil, bar and chain oil, and fluid film.
If you're willing to get into a little extra work, you can clean up that rust with a wire wheel, then hit it with a rust converting spray. Apply an epoxy primer and then an implement such as what is used on farm equipment. Then finish up with an oil spray undercoating, here is my video for that th-cam.com/video/cxVV42DYFKQ/w-d-xo.html
I am wanting to change my Differential fluid in my 98 Ranger and wanted to know if it is ok to use 100% full synthetic in it. Also wanted to know if it is better to use a Fel-Pro paper gasket or silicone.
Do you have a video on how to replace the front steering gear bellow on the older rangers and repack them with grease. My bellow is cracked and just found out that it does not have a grease fitting.
Thanks man! Great detail. Especially about those gloves. Watch alot of ppl on motortrend that use em but never tell ya where u how to get em. The vinyl 1 I get stink. 😆
How come you didnt have to use a press to get the wheel bearings in? I'm about to buy the rotor and hub assembly together without bearing inside would this be the same as to what you just installed and I wouldn't need a press. I think it dont come with the back bearings I'm getting them from oreilys for 50 bucks each side.
I did this exact job. New rotors, break pads, and bearings. Now I get a low squeak from the wheels when crusing 2 mph, and veh shakes when turning. Help please
When I drive mine it starts making a clunking sounds and I just replaced the bearings and the nut I guess holding it on is backing off idk because the tire is good and tight with no play and after I drive it there is play and underneath when I’m driving it feels like there is shaking and clunking on that side
Please note, at about 3:08 you will notice the ABS tone rings on the back of the rotor. Do NOT throw these out, like I did when I replaced my rotors! It did not appear that new tone rings were installed in the new rotors.
You can order rotors when them already installed. These trucks came with and without abs. In my case, someone had installed abs rotors on a truck equipped without abs.
Hi - I have a question about the inner bearing - I have the same rotors on my Aerostar and I see the races for them both, but the inner bearing even with the inner seal tapped into place, has a lot of play there... will it stay in place on the spindle once it's back on the truck? It just moves around a bit - but just curious if that was normal for it to do that... thanks
Are they still loose when you have the spindle nut torque properly? If so, check to make sure everything is seated correctly and you have the right bearings.
@@4DIYers there would be no way to check to see if they were loose once it's on the spindle - too much new grease there - and I didn't want to poke a screwdriver in there lol - guess they seat and don't move when it's on there, since the ones I took off were the same...... perhaps the spindle is slightly tapered as it goes to the end on the inside... I did the right side today ran out of daylight, so will do the driver side tomorrow - looks exactly the same as how I did them last time from the old hub/rotor but it was so long ago I just couldn't remember that the inner was that loose before it was put on, since the outer doesn't move at all with that washer in place... - BTW for anyone that is reading this - the proper sizes are the #6 for the inner and the #2 for the outer. I only use Timken - Another good tip to get the pins out - don't use a screwdriver - use a 3/8's drive extension... tap the fat part first and then once it's into the bracket, flip it around... fits the channel perfectly...
Yes. The outer bearing is smaller. I used a Timken SET 2 on mine. No seal was needed. The inner was a Timken SET 5 for me, and required a seal. None of the three components were more than $5 each. I strongly advise getting good quality rotors with races already installed.
You ever figure that out? Cause I’m going through the point of someone telling me if I were to just replace the bearing and not the race then I might as well just slap the old bearing back in.
This final torque in in-lbs is important. I misread this the first time and used ft-lbs. I ended up destroying a set of bearings 20 miles from the house. The retaining ring holds the nut in place not the torque. Good video.
I just finished installing upper control arms and lower ball joints on my 98 ranger 2wd Finished the day with installing the steering knuckle. I installed a new camber kit in the upper arm and only tightened them a little bit as well as the pinch bolt and the castle nut at the lower ball joint. I know not to tighten the upper control arm until the tires are on the truck and sitting on the ground as this will assume the position as a preload. Do I torque the pinch bolt and castle nut at this time before putting on the rotor and installing. the bearings and tire. In other words do I want to remove the jack stands and put the weight of the truck on the ground before torqueing or does it matter.
The control arms bushings typically need to be preloaded when the vehicle is on the ground. Otherwise if it's tightened while the vehicle is elevated and the wheel is off the ground, the rubber bushing will fight against the tension rather than sitting in a neutral spot when weight is applied. The ball joint connections to the steering knuckle, those can be tightened while the vehicle is elevated, those won't affect the bushing preload.
OK so I can go ahead and torque to specs the pinch nut and castle nut right. I have my castle nut a little more then hand tight right now and there is space about 3/8" between the bottom of the boot on the lower ball joint and the top of the hole at the bottom of the knuckle. Not sure if this space will close up because it is already snug. I am assuming the bolt on the lower ball joint is tapered right. After it is torqued to spec will the hole at the bottom of the knuckle be touching the rubber boot of the lower ball joint or is there suppose to be a little space between them.
I am not sure if I have the upper control arm bolts too tight with the truck elevated, I can grab the upper control arm and move it up and down easily. So you are saying to go ahead and put tire back on and do the torque specs with tire on and siting on the ground. I have those 16" tires and not sure if there is enough clearance to get in there. If not enough clearance can I put the tires back on the ground and measure the distance between the bottom of the lower control arm and the ground and then jack it back up and remove tire and place a jack under that same arm and make the distance the same..... Or do you recommend doing it with tire on and on the ground.
Is it acceptable to utilize the old outer race if it looks good? I thought new bearings required new races because they are a matched set and manufacturers differ somewhat
4DIYers I have changed out my right wheel bearing and installed the matched race. It was a challenge to remove the old race out and install the new ones because I didn't have a press. I believe it is best practice to install new races with the bearing
My bearings are bad can I just replace the bearings the rotors are about 5k miles used I forgot to install new bearings and am afraid to mess something up please advise
What makes this video so good is that it gets directly to the point without a lot of story time nonsense!!
Thank you!
is there a washer that goes on be for the axle nut??
Yes there is.
@@4DIYers no, thank you
@@4DIYers00
This is what i wanna see when i look for tutorials!!!
Thank you :)
He's right, this is straight to the point, no bs.
You should teach at Harvard.
Probably the most calming and instructional tutorial I've seen on the internet. You are the man.
Thank you, I really appreciate the kind words :)
Still helpful many years later! I’ve done everything to my Jetta and ranger. I’ve put this off til my bearings fried coming home one night back in November. Finally getting around to it with the weather and you made me feel confident enough I’m no longer worried! Only worried about rust bolts! Onto the calliper video now because I don’t wanna mess my new ones up! Got the full assembly for breaks on the front including bearings! Once this is done, upper control arms, sway bar links and a fuel filter! I did my valve cover and intake manifold gaskets last year (2.3l) once torn down I never thought it was gunna run again but I did a good job!!!
Great video man. Thank you for being straight forward and showing every step instead of just putting new parts on and ignoring how to disassemble the old ones.
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback :)
was just quoted $2-300 to get mine replaced. seeing as the parts are only $50ish and you make it look so easy, I think I'll do it myself! wish me luck
Thank you! Best of luck :)
Where you able to find a kit with all the needed part? I'm only able to find the single parts
I did this job on my Ford Explorer, good video!😃
However, I would recommend putting some grease on inside of rotor hub before installing bearing and seal as well as putting a nice, thorougly coated layer of grease on the spindle shaft before mounting rotor, just to ensure nothing goes dry inside. And maybe put three fingers full of grease inside dust cap to act as a reservoir.
I own a 2000 ford ranger 3.0 RWD. I want thank you sincerely for making this video. My truck was riding terribly. I had it balanced several times with no success until I researched further and came across your video. I looked at your video several times to make sure I performed everything correctly and did wonder why the torquing, back off, and re-torquing. The bearings were in such bad shape I could remove them with my fingers. Before I did this: terrible ride, braking, handling, and even the gas mileage. Since replacement of the bearings and repacking: a more composed ride, better handling, gas mileage, and simply just a better planted vehicle on the road. I should have done this years ago. I under why you tightened, loosened, and re-tightened the main: enough to hold, but enough to allow the wheel to spin with no resistance. No more bottoming out or jiggling over bumps and/or potholes. Thank you and bless you for sharing your knowledge. Also for boosting my confidence in myself so I could fix my truck and help my family:)
Before you changed out the bearings, did it make any noise when you drove the truck?
I am facing having to do a front brake job and possible bearing replacement, cant find anyone that doesnt have a 2 week lead time! I alwsys did my own repairs until 2014. The first of my 2 strokes. Thanks for the video, looks doable, even for someone in my condition. The only thing I had a difference of opinion on was this. When replacing a bearing. I was told you HAD to replace the race as well, no matter what. That is why they come as a matched set. Otherwise, a concise, well produced, easy to understand video! Great job!
wow what a professional production
Thank you, I really appreciate the kind words :)
Nice video, I recently moved and sold my tools - bought a used Ranger. A shop quoted me $300 to replace front wheel bearings. I wondered, WTH??? I'm getting a floor jack, and stands, wish I never sold them. Thanks, you're a Ford guy, who's brain I can pick when I'm unfamiliar...
You're welcome! I've had like 3 Rangers so far lol, this one was my mom's truck. Will be going back to Ford when I can find the truck I want.
Brother thank you for the help! You made it possible for me to get back to work
Great to hear and thank you for the feedback!
Very clear and to the point. Most people show from how to remove the wheel (really?? if I don't know how to do that I would be attempt the brake roto). I was very confused of the metal ring that come with the new bearing and you point out that they are not needed. Exactly the info I was looking for. Thank you.
Excellent to hear, thank you so much for the feedback! I have plenty more Ranger repair videos as well if you're looking for more tutorials.
Just used your video to install new bearings/rotor on my 1999 Ranger. Really appreciate you taking the time to make this. Made it easy! (By the way, packing bearings is harder than it looks!)
Thank you for being super direct and efficient in your presentation for this repair.
No problem and thank you for the feedback!
A few years ago I made the horrible and teenaged mistake of thinking it would be cool to put spacers on my Ranger. Fuck was I wrong. Today (10-24-18) I was driving on i95 when I started hearing a thudding from my front right and already knew what the hell it was. I had to drive 30 miles aware of this fucked up bearing. When I shut off the truck and jacked it up, all 5 lugs for the wheel were borderline about to fall off from the intense motion the bearing was causing. Turns out that my front right inner bearing got smushed flat on a sizeable chunk of the ring, causing the spindles in the bearing to scatter. I could have fucking died today if I drove a few more miles at 75 mph. Thanks for the video, super concise and a damn easy job
Wow, good thing you caught it in the right time and thank you for the feedback too :)
Thanks so much! I came in from the garage to figure out how to get the race into the hub... never would have occurred to me that it wasn't needed. I'd still be out there banging on it without your tutorial.
No problem, glad to help out! Yeah it depends on the rotor manufacture, whether they include the outer race or not.
good video, i like how you post the torque specs as i know how to replace the parts but not exactly how tight the bearing needs to be. i used to just go by feel so its good to know the proper values to use
Thank you and happy to help :)
It's very important to set the torque as specified by the manufacturer. Some bearings need precompression, that can mean a high torque, and some do not use any torque at all, just a no-play fit. Never guess the torque for bearings. If you set 100 ft-lbs for a no-play bearing, it will probably seize.
Also, some bearings are made and sold as matched sets. You won't know if you get them from a third party like the auto parts store. You will only know if you get them straight from the bearing manufacturer. As a result, I always change both races when doing the job. It is generally a good practice to change both races at the same time anyhow. The inner race may look fine, but mileage has weakened it. They fail by spalding, that is by flaking off due to repeated compression as the rollers pass.
Great video! Very helpful, but part numbers in the description would be really nice to have. Thank you for educating
Thank you! I only supply part numbers if I’m using OEM parts. Anything aftermarket I typically don’t post part numbers for.
Thanks! Got mine done in less than an hour with the help of the video.
Awesome to hear :)
fantastic clear and concise tutorial. my friends golf mk V wheel bearing needs replacing I noticed yesterday. what happens if you don't get it replaced?
+juman islam Thank you. They will make a loud noise for quite a long time, but after a prolonged period eventually it will cause uneven wearing issues on the tire and possibly steering wandering issues. If left for an extremely long time, the wheel may come off which would mean a complete failure of the bearing.
Thank you. This was very helpful. I was able to do the bearings on our Ranger in about an hour.
Excellent to hear and thank you for the feedback!
Absolutely top notch demonstration. You've gotten a new subscriber! Thanks a million!!
Thank you so much for the kind words and support :)
Some additional info from my job on a 2001 Mazda B3000 2WD, in case you were thinking they were the same:
The 24mm bolt for the spindle nut is larger than 25mm, the biggest I have in metric. I am not exactly sure the size, but I was able to use a 1-1/16 in 6-point socket due to low torque value.
Just in case anybody needs to know 27mm fit my 2001 b2300.
This Video will definitely help me with my 2011 2WD Ranger. Thank You
Excellent to hear, always happy to help :) I have more Ranger repair videos if you're seeking additional tutorials too.
Just recently did this on my '03 Ford Ranger Edge, and it had a 27mm instead of a 24mm nut. 20in-lbs ain't that much, and it was funny seeing my 1/4" drive torque wrench with the two adapters needed to connect to that big 27mm socket.
Why I love my 2000 Ford ranger, saving money on wheel bearings LOL
I have plenty more Ranger repair videos too ;)
@@4DIYers I've seen both front and rear wheel bearings for rangers and they look the exact same, are they interchangeable?
Thanks for a quick and easy tutorial, the other vids were really long and some of the stuff I forgot lol
No problem, happy I could help!
Excellent guide, truck rides better than ever.
Thank you and awesome to hear!
Thanks for the very clear and concise tutorial. incidentally, I'm pretty sure you mean retorque to 18~ 20 foot pounds (at about 4:13).
Thank you! Nope, it's 18-20 inch pounds not foot pounds.
OK, Thanks. Glad I asked...so, its torque to 17~25 lbs-ft, back off 1/2 turn and then torque to 18~20 inch-lbs...yeah? Thank you again.
No problem. Yes that is correct. Normally I just do this by hand (used to it), but I pulled the specs right from the manual for anyone wanting to use a torque wrench.
I thought he meant foot pounds too lol. Glad I saw your comment and his correction.
This is a very confusing point because the numbers are so close. Keep in mind the initial set (FOOT pounds) is to help seat the bearing where it belongs. Then you back it off and then retighten to the 20 INCH pounds neighborhood. Some in-lb torque wrenches won't go below 20. This is barely hand snug for most people, including myself. That's why the castlelated cover and cotter pin.
Saved my ass on a 98 ranger
Happy I was able to help!
Best channel you get right to the point and you make it easy to understand 💯 👌
Like the video everything was done correctly and to the point other than adding extra grease to the cap filling it 50% gives an extra reservoir of grease to circulate
Thank you. No need to fill the cap with grease though. Grease isn't like oil so it's not supposed to move around or melt unless it's under extreme temperatures.
Dude that was great. Everything was close up and well explained.
Right to the point. Very nice video, and very helpful for me that I'll be performing the same job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge man.
Glad to help and thank you for the feedback :)
Thanks, that was exactly what I needed to see for my 1986 F150.
Awesome to hear and thank you for the feedback!
Thank you for this to the point professional tutorial! I just subscribed.
Awesome to hear and thank you so much for the support!
I decided to install the new camber kits on my 98 ranger's upper control arms. Do I need to put the square hole on the camber washers at 12 o'clock position for the alignment guy or does it matter where I put it.
Thank you so much.... it was a big help for me replacing my b2200 bearing... Thank you again...
No problem, happy to help :) I have plenty more tutorials on this truck as well.
Thats why I loved my 06 Ranger sport rwd so easy to work on and one less part of a CV axle and did all the suspension repair myself..but unfortunately due to financial crisis I had to sell it was a very good truck that can rival a tacoma for reliability and longevity.
Thanks a ton! Had to redo the bearings on my Mazda b2000, and this helped a lot
Thanks for the video sir with your help I did it myself i learn something new I save some money and it was fun 😊
Awesome to hear and glad to help out :)
very informative, I was replacing mine and wasnt sure about the bearing race and thought id forgot to put them in but like yours they were built in. saved me the work pulling it all apart again. thanks for a great video
No problem, happy to help :)
Great video very helpful i am a little confused. I have just purchased new wheel bearings and seals. Someone told me to make sure I press the wheel bearing races with a special tool. I have no idea what he is talking about can you elaborate. I know in your video you say that the races are installed on the factory rotors. If someone replaced the rotors how would i know if they replaced the races? I was also told if the races arent pressed i will have to replace the bearings again in a few thousand miles. Any help is appreciated thank you!
You don't need a press to install or remove the inner race, but it helps. Remove by tapping evenly from the other side using a hammer and long tool such as a large blunted screwdriver. A perfectly fitting socket works as well. Be very careful to not damage the inner surface where the race seats. The replacement needs to seat all the way in to a precise depth. Nicks and gouges can prevent proper placement.To install be very careful it does not go in crooked. It's easy to cock it. Lay a block of wood across the race and tap with a hammer. When the race gets deep, place the old race over it or a socket and the use the block of wood and hammer. Don't get the old race stuck!
94 ranger 27 mm socket for spindle nut. Great video
Thank you!
same for 2006
Same for the 2003..
Appreciate the step by step but I have to ask, you said the race comes factory so there’s no need to replace it?
Thank you! No need to replace it. Technically bearings and races should be kept together but they are made within factory specifications so you can use the new bearings with the already preinstalled races.
So I followed this to the T. Note that after changing the rotors my ABS light is on. The slotted metal dish on the inside of the rotor is for the ABS. my new rotors didn't come with it pre installed and I missed it during installation. Not sure if I preded the wrong ones. Oh well guess I'll have to put tape over that light.
It's called the reluctor ring and I have not been able to find the hub assembly and rotor with it on for a 2RWD. I put on the hub assembly and rotor on for a 4WD by mistake and it does NOT work. ABS will activate whenever you brake below 10 mph.
Straight to the point and very informative thank you very much this helped me a lot
Good day, by any chance do you know what could cause a broken spindle shaft? (Small tapered section where the nut is tighten) i ask because mine was broken on my ranger. Just by turning right going down the curve of my home. Less than a mile glad it did not happen while driving... very instructional video!
Absolute textbook!
Thank you!
Great video man!!! Good job imma go replace mine this weekend it's clunking all over the place you're the man I'll be subscribing
Thank you for the compliment and support!
Very Helpful thank you for taking the time to do this,
Glad to help out and thank you for the feedback :)
I was hoping you would have a upper control arm install with the new camber kits on the older 98 ford rangers. Anyways, I just installed the upper control arms with new ball joints and wanted to know if you knew how much to tighten i.e. torque setting the camber bolts before you put a load on the bushings to do the final torque with tires on the ground. Also wanted to know if there is a way to put the correct preload on the bushings with the tire off the truck
Man I’m going to do this on a 04 sport trac since it’s pretty much the same. The other video I seen by 1a auto I believe it was didn’t give the torque specs and that’s the reason I’m doing this for the 7th time
Thanks for the video but I think the outer bearing race should be replaced if using the old rotor.
Great video. Right to the point. I highly recommend it.
Thank you :)
Thank you for being so direct and informative so fast... I had to pause and rewind several times while watching this video, side note I didn't see you install grease in the grease cap is that necessary? and/or do you have to grease the inside of the hub rotor besides packing the bearings?
Thank you for the feedback! Grease isn't necessary in the cap. People do it as a "reserve" where it may melt and fall into the bearing. But the grease used is a high pressure high temp product. If your bearings are getting that hot, there's another issue which needs to be addressed. Extra grease is usually slathered around the bearings when they're installed besides being fully packed.
Is a bad wheel bearing feel like when ur driving ur truck or rolling to a stop seem like something is wrong with the tire it makes a vibration while truck is rolling an as u speed up the noise gets a bit louder? If anyone can answer I would greatly appreciate it
Here's my video for diagnosing a faulty wheel bearing th-cam.com/video/QfOfOBZfxlo/w-d-xo.html
Best one so far...
Thank you :)
Do you ever recommend replacing your oil pan drain plug with a magnetic one. Dorman makes one #090-036 that I was going to replace it. I usually like the plugs with no rubber washer built into them like ford recommends because I like to put a copper washer on each change but wanted to know your thoughts.
So I did this job with new rotors and bearings, but unfortunately the dirt cheap bearings I bought let go after about 15k miles and had a ton of play. Bought some high quality timken stuff but didn't replace outer races in rotors... think they'll wear quickly because I didn't replace the outer race? They're pressed in... not sure I'm capable of getting them out
Races are typically matched up with the bearings so you may experience a premature failure.
Great video!
I have a 2WD Ford Ranger XLT. It doesn't seem to have a metal retainer cap on it which I think is the cause why the nut always loosens over tiime. Do you know where can I purchase online? Tried searching but no luck.
Excellent tutorial.
Thank you for much needed instructions!
Glad to help out :)
Tried doing this today and wasn’t able to remove the outer wheel bearing it just wouldn’t budge, got any tips for removing it?
My 98 ranger's frame is badly rusting. Trying to find a cheap alternative to the rust and wanted to know what you use to combat it. I have seen used motor oil, bar and chain oil, and fluid film.
If you're willing to get into a little extra work, you can clean up that rust with a wire wheel, then hit it with a rust converting spray. Apply an epoxy primer and then an implement such as what is used on farm equipment. Then finish up with an oil spray undercoating, here is my video for that th-cam.com/video/cxVV42DYFKQ/w-d-xo.html
I am wanting to change my Differential fluid in my 98 Ranger and wanted to know if it is ok to use 100% full synthetic in it. Also wanted to know if it is better to use a Fel-Pro paper gasket or silicone.
Do you have a video on how to replace the front steering gear bellow on the older rangers and repack them with grease. My bellow is cracked and just found out that it does not have a grease fitting.
Unfortunately I do not have a video for this.
Thanks man! Great detail. Especially about those gloves. Watch alot of ppl on motortrend that use em but never tell ya where u how to get em. The vinyl 1 I get stink. 😆
Thank you :)
Did you not install the outer seal?
So you don't grease up the inside at all, just the bearings?
I have a 2001 Ford explorer Sport. Is there a way to change this type of rotor to the type that just pulls off?
How come you didnt have to use a press to get the wheel bearings in? I'm about to buy the rotor and hub assembly together without bearing inside would this be the same as to what you just installed and I wouldn't need a press. I think it dont come with the back bearings I'm getting them from oreilys for 50 bucks each side.
I did this exact job. New rotors, break pads, and bearings. Now I get a low squeak from the wheels when crusing 2 mph, and veh shakes when turning. Help please
Did you clean the rotors, is the bearings torqued correctly, do the pads and calipers move freely, and is there anything rubbing?
Do you have the link to all the rotors and bearings or where did you buy them
thanks buddy this video was really helpful!!
No problem, glad to help out :)
Really? 20in-lb plus a pin is enough to hold the wheel on?
Great video btw
Thank you and yes it is. That torque spec maintains the proper clearance in the bearing, otherwise it'll overheat and fail.
When I drive mine it starts making a clunking sounds and I just replaced the bearings and the nut I guess holding it on is backing off idk because the tire is good and tight with no play and after I drive it there is play and underneath when I’m driving it feels like there is shaking and clunking on that side
Please note, at about 3:08 you will notice the ABS tone rings on the back of the rotor. Do NOT throw these out, like I did when I replaced my rotors! It did not appear that new tone rings were installed in the new rotors.
You can order rotors when them already installed. These trucks came with and without abs. In my case, someone had installed abs rotors on a truck equipped without abs.
@@4DIYers Ah, that clears up my confusion! Thanks so much for sharing this video!
No problem and thank you!
Hi - I have a question about the inner bearing - I have the same rotors on my Aerostar and I see the races for them both, but the inner bearing even with the inner seal tapped into place, has a lot of play there... will it stay in place on the spindle once it's back on the truck? It just moves around a bit - but just curious if that was normal for it to do that... thanks
Are they still loose when you have the spindle nut torque properly? If so, check to make sure everything is seated correctly and you have the right bearings.
@@4DIYers there would be no way to check to see if they were loose once it's on the spindle - too much new grease there - and I didn't want to poke a screwdriver in there lol - guess they seat and don't move when it's on there, since the ones I took off were the same...... perhaps the spindle is slightly tapered as it goes to the end on the inside... I did the right side today ran out of daylight, so will do the driver side tomorrow - looks exactly the same as how I did them last time from the old hub/rotor but it was so long ago I just couldn't remember that the inner was that loose before it was put on, since the outer doesn't move at all with that washer in place... - BTW for anyone that is reading this - the proper sizes are the #6 for the inner and the #2 for the outer. I only use Timken - Another good tip to get the pins out - don't use a screwdriver - use a 3/8's drive extension... tap the fat part first and then once it's into the bracket, flip it around... fits the channel perfectly...
Are the inside and outside wheel bearing the same size? Mine came in today and one is quite a bit smaller than the other.
Great vid. Can you tell me if you reused the exciter ring or do you buy new ones?
Thank you. A new rotor should be ordered with it. Someone had installed the wrong rotors on this truck, there's no abs sensor on the spindle.
I wish I had an easy button I could press. Saved me a lot of money 💰
Just to make absolute clear, there are two sets of bearings, an inner and an outer set, is there any difference in them?
Yes. The outer bearing is smaller. I used a Timken SET 2 on mine. No seal was needed. The inner was a Timken SET 5 for me, and required a seal. None of the three components were more than $5 each. I strongly advise getting good quality rotors with races already installed.
I didn't see where you installed the smaller inner bearing. Was it installed in the rotor prior to replacing the bigger bearing and seal?
@2:30 the inner bearing gets installed. It does go in before the seal.
Hello sir do you have to buy new bearings when you buy a rotor or it comes with the Rotor
I recall AutoZone do not, but O' Reillys do... Ask before buying
Who makes the rotor with the races pre installed?
You ever figure that out? Cause I’m going through the point of someone telling me if I were to just replace the bearing and not the race then I might as well just slap the old bearing back in.
what moment of tightening of a nut - a Front Wheel Bearing ford F 150 2WD .2001 year?
Same process, the final torque is 17 inch lbs. Don't forget to subscribe!
ft-lbs! I would hope not in-lbs. LOL
***** First time around is 17-24 ft pounds, then back off the nut, and re-torque to 17 inch pounds.
This final torque in in-lbs is important. I misread this the first time and used ft-lbs. I ended up destroying a set of bearings 20 miles from the house. The retaining ring holds the nut in place not the torque. Good video.
Life saver bro!
Thank you!
I was just wondering did you need a race/Bearing driver? Or did you just use the bolt to push in the Bearings and seal?
Why did you not replace the inner and outer races on the wheel bearings
Great job at explaining.😎👍
Subbed and thumbs up.
Thank you so much for the support and kind words :)
I was wondering what size cotter pin you are using sir
I just finished installing upper control arms and lower ball joints on my 98 ranger 2wd Finished the day with installing the steering knuckle. I installed a new camber kit in the upper arm and only tightened them a little bit as well as the pinch bolt and the castle nut at the lower ball joint. I know not to tighten the upper control arm until the tires are on the truck and sitting on the ground as this will assume the position as a preload. Do I torque the pinch bolt and castle nut at this time before putting on the rotor and installing. the bearings and tire. In other words do I want to remove the jack stands and put the weight of the truck on the ground before torqueing or does it matter.
The control arms bushings typically need to be preloaded when the vehicle is on the ground. Otherwise if it's tightened while the vehicle is elevated and the wheel is off the ground, the rubber bushing will fight against the tension rather than sitting in a neutral spot when weight is applied. The ball joint connections to the steering knuckle, those can be tightened while the vehicle is elevated, those won't affect the bushing preload.
OK so I can go ahead and torque to specs the pinch nut and castle nut right. I have my castle nut a little more then hand tight right now and there is space about 3/8" between the bottom of the boot on the lower ball joint and the top of the hole at the bottom of the knuckle. Not sure if this space will close up because it is already snug. I am assuming the bolt on the lower ball joint is tapered right. After it is torqued to spec will the hole at the bottom of the knuckle be touching the rubber boot of the lower ball joint or is there suppose to be a little space between them.
I am not sure if I have the upper control arm bolts too tight with the truck elevated, I can grab the upper control arm and move it up and down easily. So you are saying to go ahead and put tire back on and do the torque specs with tire on and siting on the ground. I have those 16" tires and not sure if there is enough clearance to get in there. If not enough clearance can I put the tires back on the ground and measure the distance between the bottom of the lower control arm and the ground and then jack it back up and remove tire and place a jack under that same arm and make the distance the same..... Or do you recommend doing it with tire on and on the ground.
Where can i get the new hub assembly and bearings
I have a 2wd Ford explorer is it the same process?
Would you recommend replacing the whole rotor and hub assembly or just wheel bearings if they are loose?
You can keep your old rotors if they're in good shape. Just make sure you replace the outer bearing race.
Is it acceptable to utilize the old outer race if it looks good? I thought new bearings required new races because they are a matched set and manufacturers differ somewhat
Personally I wouldn't chance it, you can cause a premature failure.
4DIYers I have changed out my right wheel bearing and installed the matched race. It was a challenge to remove the old race out and install the new ones because I didn't have a press. I believe it is best practice to install new races with the bearing
My bearings are bad can I just replace the bearings the rotors are about 5k miles used I forgot to install new bearings and am afraid to mess something up please advise
Yes you can replace just the bearing, however you will need to replace the outer race in the rotor as well. The new bearings should include that.
My Ranger is a 2004, 2WD, 3.0-L, and it took a 1-1/16" socket for the spindle nut. Just sayin'...
Thank you for sharing. Sometimes there is some minor differences between the years and engine sizes.
18ftLyman yes, mine also
Wish I would have known that I went and made a trip to buy the wrong socket
Thanks!
ya thats for the shitty 3.slow engine.