A QUICK NOTE: I experienced some tightness in the crankset after the install and while my cranks would spin, they wouldn't spin as freely as I'd like. It was basically one rotation and they'd stop. I realized that the manufacturer torque spec was a bit high to allow the cranks to spin freely. I'm unsure if that means that they needed to be backed off, or what the particular issue was, however, it felt like everything was just a bit too tight. I searched countless forums and attempted to adjust the spring loaded retaining nut and I also consulted the manual with no luck on this specific issue. I reached out to some local mechanics and no one had a definitive solution. My solution was to back the torque off completely and retighten right up until they no longer spun smoothly, then back the cranks off to just before they reached that point. I test rode the BMC prior to racing, and subsequently have raced the BMC on the ROTOR ALDHU Crankset with zero issues. Everything spins fine and I've had no problems, personally. Remember, I'm still just some guy on the internet and I'm not necessarily recommending this as a solution, but I found the problem is pretty commonplace across those who've purchased the ROTOR ALDHU Crankset. If you have found a solution of your own, please feel free to reply to this comment and share so that others watching may be able to figure out the issue. Thanks for watching!
@@paulb9769 you’d have to measure out your BB. Idk the spindle length on the ROTOR. I’d guess your LBS will have a lot more answers than I will. Give ‘em a ring!
I had this same issue, did the same procedure, but my NDS crank arm came loose while riding lmao. Luckily I noticed before it totally fell off, so I rode home gently and didn't crash. So then I tightened it back down past the point where it spins freely... it's a frustrating issue though, feeling like I'm losing a little efficiency on it. But I'd rather lose some efficiency than potentially have my crank arm fall off while riding.
No, it should not spin so little. the bb shell is too long, try removing the washers you installed, for me it helped and also not adding aby pre-load. It spins so slow coz the preload washer is smashing the seals of the ND bearing, ruining that bearing faster and drag also..
When you're using a new BB it is not uncommon that it feels initially a bit tight (ie friction in the bearings). Shimano used to make a fully serviceable Octalink BB, you cannot compare the friction in these sealed BB units to those super smooth BBs. One solution is, putting a better BB on the bike from a different brand (not going to name them) that have less friction. These BBs aren't the best unfortunately. My second thought is that the torque specs are usually "do not exceed" type values, you can apply less torque as long as there is no play/there is enough pre-load.
Direct upgrade! I really enjoyed the Black Label but it was time to go carbon super track bike since I do want to take the track a little more seriously this season. Racing up north at VeloSports Center and hopefully some upgrades coming
Have you find a solution with tighness in the BB ? Have the same problem on my felt tk1 and the Ceramic BB rotor, I removed the preload and its better, but I don’t think its ideal. Does it really make a difference? I feel like yes but cant tell for sure. Let me know please!
I’m using those chainring nut wrenches to tighten them, but somehow it’s still a bit lose. I think I may need to change my chainring like how you suggested
You need to preload the bearings with that nut so it is important. Otherwise you cannot make the fine tune adjustments needed to make sure the cranks spin properly
Hey! I have the same problem with the crank, doesn't spin freely. I measured the length of the axle when goes out from the bb, i took it out of the bike and put the non drive on the axle, install it and measure the axle, it was around 1mm differences, so i think is a problem of manufacturing or the BB is too big
So I’ve talked to a couple mechanics about this issue. Basically they tell me it’s really a non issue. Preload the spring nut per recommendation and even if it doesn’t spin freely that’s fine it shouldn’t really be causing massive drivetrain inefficiency or losses. I think it also might just take some time to break that stuff in and with miles and a bit of wear it’ll chill out. This is just what I’ve heard after asking around, I’m no genius hahah. But I have also heard Rotor BB are not known for being the best on the market 😬
@@WaltDoesBikes i think there is a problem, is not normal to have that friction. When you don't tight the left crank everything is smooth and when you tight it don't move 😅 There are 2 options on my mind, the BB is wrong, i have exactly like yours but when i search now on google "rotor track bb" i see something different. 2nd maybe we need the road axle witch coud be longer (qf 147)
@@cristadani have you checked your bottom bracket width on the frame? Try facing the bb on both side. You might get the 1mm difference if there's excess paint on the surface
It is a pretty standard BB tool. It actually came with the bottom bracket when I ordered it if I remember correctly. If you choose that option when you order the Crankset they’ll send it over 😊
Yo! It’s been a while since I installed this thing. I believe it depends on BB spacing. It should tell you in the online manual from ALDHU. Sorry I’m not more help (I do think they’re required)
You didn't show any preload adjustment , I own 2 set of this crank , and I just replace then with a 24mm spindle with Chris King BB , this rotor crank you've shown does not spin properly , and the BB is shit , sorry , I rode them for couple of years and got fed up .
Totally fair. If you read my pinned comment I did have a similar issue but I've worked it out for myself and they spin fine now. Probably not the recommended way of doing so but I've raced them and put quite a few miles on there now and all seems to be going well. To each their own though. Chris King BB is SICK though. $$$ no doubt. I guess ROTOR isn't much better though.
@@accbecky much appreciated! I might actually reach out to ROTOR and explain the issue a bit, also. It might be worth figuring out if their internal mechanics can offer some insight 🤷♂️
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A QUICK NOTE: I experienced some tightness in the crankset after the install and while my cranks would spin, they wouldn't spin as freely as I'd like. It was basically one rotation and they'd stop. I realized that the manufacturer torque spec was a bit high to allow the cranks to spin freely. I'm unsure if that means that they needed to be backed off, or what the particular issue was, however, it felt like everything was just a bit too tight. I searched countless forums and attempted to adjust the spring loaded retaining nut and I also consulted the manual with no luck on this specific issue.
I reached out to some local mechanics and no one had a definitive solution. My solution was to back the torque off completely and retighten right up until they no longer spun smoothly, then back the cranks off to just before they reached that point. I test rode the BMC prior to racing, and subsequently have raced the BMC on the ROTOR ALDHU Crankset with zero issues. Everything spins fine and I've had no problems, personally.
Remember, I'm still just some guy on the internet and I'm not necessarily recommending this as a solution, but I found the problem is pretty commonplace across those who've purchased the ROTOR ALDHU Crankset. If you have found a solution of your own, please feel free to reply to this comment and share so that others watching may be able to figure out the issue.
Thanks for watching!
That is a sexy bike. I bought a Sram force 22 crank by mistake I have 95mm space between my cranks it is a BB30 PF3 spindle would this work?
@@paulb9769 you’d have to measure out your BB. Idk the spindle length on the ROTOR. I’d guess your LBS will have a lot more answers than I will. Give ‘em a ring!
I had this same issue, did the same procedure, but my NDS crank arm came loose while riding lmao. Luckily I noticed before it totally fell off, so I rode home gently and didn't crash. So then I tightened it back down past the point where it spins freely... it's a frustrating issue though, feeling like I'm losing a little efficiency on it. But I'd rather lose some efficiency than potentially have my crank arm fall off while riding.
No, it should not spin so little. the bb shell is too long, try removing the washers you installed, for me it helped and also not adding aby pre-load. It spins so slow coz the preload washer is smashing the seals of the ND bearing, ruining that bearing faster and drag also..
When you're using a new BB it is not uncommon that it feels initially a bit tight (ie friction in the bearings). Shimano used to make a fully serviceable Octalink BB, you cannot compare the friction in these sealed BB units to those super smooth BBs. One solution is, putting a better BB on the bike from a different brand (not going to name them) that have less friction. These BBs aren't the best unfortunately. My second thought is that the torque specs are usually "do not exceed" type values, you can apply less torque as long as there is no play/there is enough pre-load.
Nice new frame! Is this an upgrade to the black label v2, or was there another track frame in-between?
Direct upgrade! I really enjoyed the Black Label but it was time to go carbon super track bike since I do want to take the track a little more seriously this season. Racing up north at VeloSports Center and hopefully some upgrades coming
Have you find a solution with tighness in the BB ? Have the same problem on my felt tk1 and the Ceramic BB rotor, I removed the preload and its better, but I don’t think its ideal. Does it really make a difference? I feel like yes but cant tell for sure. Let me know please!
I have problems with the bolts securing the chainring to the spider, any suggestions on what tool or method I can use to properly lock them in place?
I swap chainrings pretty regularly, never had any issues. Are you torquing them to spec and are they high quality bolts?
I’m using those chainring nut wrenches to tighten them, but somehow it’s still a bit lose. I think I may need to change my chainring like how you suggested
hellooo But I have a question to ask, for track rotor aldhu cranks right what if the preload nut is missing,Is it an important piece to the crank?
You need to preload the bearings with that nut so it is important. Otherwise you cannot make the fine tune adjustments needed to make sure the cranks spin properly
@@WaltDoesBikes any recommended website to purchase it. btw thank you so much for this video
I do have the Rotor Aldhu track crankset and not didn't used the preload nut and it works fine
Hey! I have the same problem with the crank, doesn't spin freely. I measured the length of the axle when goes out from the bb, i took it out of the bike and put the non drive on the axle, install it and measure the axle, it was around 1mm differences, so i think is a problem of manufacturing or the BB is too big
So I’ve talked to a couple mechanics about this issue. Basically they tell me it’s really a non issue. Preload the spring nut per recommendation and even if it doesn’t spin freely that’s fine it shouldn’t really be causing massive drivetrain inefficiency or losses. I think it also might just take some time to break that stuff in and with miles and a bit of wear it’ll chill out. This is just what I’ve heard after asking around, I’m no genius hahah. But I have also heard Rotor BB are not known for being the best on the market 😬
@@WaltDoesBikes i think there is a problem, is not normal to have that friction. When you don't tight the left crank everything is smooth and when you tight it don't move 😅 There are 2 options on my mind, the BB is wrong, i have exactly like yours but when i search now on google "rotor track bb" i see something different. 2nd maybe we need the road axle witch coud be longer (qf 147)
@@cristadani have you checked your bottom bracket width on the frame? Try facing the bb on both side. You might get the 1mm difference if there's excess paint on the surface
@@RushDone hey! So finally i did it with sand paper and i manage to take out 1mm of the bb (i have argon elctron pro track frame)
@@cristadani did you manged to make the crank work properly?
Is the tool another proprietary bb tool?
It is a pretty standard BB tool. It actually came with the bottom bracket when I ordered it if I remember correctly. If you choose that option when you order the Crankset they’ll send it over 😊
hey man question for you. are those 2 thin gaskets required? my aldhu didnt come with them. thank you!
Yo! It’s been a while since I installed this thing. I believe it depends on BB spacing. It should tell you in the online manual from ALDHU. Sorry I’m not more help (I do think they’re required)
What tool do you use for bottom bracket?
Yo, ROTOR sent the BB tool with the BB. You can Google it though and buy one on Amazon or something
I think you need a bigger chain ring lol
Hahah the 65T is in the mail. 😮💨
hi, what chainring bolts are you using?
Dura Ace! They’re great. Never come loose
@@WaltDoesBikes do you have the name of the chainring bolts? my LBS doesnt seem to know what Im talking about
@@francisignatiusdelcastillo116 oh man, your LBS should be slapped. They’re literally Dura Ace Track Chainring bolts www.racycles.com/equipment/components/chainrings/shimano-duraace-fc7710-track-chainring-bolts-4837?sku=105518
So
What gear ratio are you running with that phat 61
How many teeth has that chainring ? It’s huge. 😱
Hahah it’s a 61T. Makes some nice gears imo 🤙🏼
You didn't show any preload adjustment , I own 2 set of this crank , and I just replace then with a 24mm spindle with Chris King BB , this rotor crank you've shown does not spin properly , and the BB is shit , sorry , I rode them for couple of years and got fed up .
Totally fair. If you read my pinned comment I did have a similar issue but I've worked it out for myself and they spin fine now. Probably not the recommended way of doing so but I've raced them and put quite a few miles on there now and all seems to be going well. To each their own though. Chris King BB is SICK though. $$$ no doubt. I guess ROTOR isn't much better though.
@@WaltDoesBikes thanks for the reply ,I'll subscribe to your channel ,and watch more videos , good job ,!
@@accbecky much appreciated! I might actually reach out to ROTOR and explain the issue a bit, also. It might be worth figuring out if their internal mechanics can offer some insight 🤷♂️