You should grease the spindle in outboard like omniums. Cause cranks spinning in like 100+ rpm or so depending on your ration with applied pressure. It will potential destroy the external bearing and even the cromo spindle. But if it's a square tapred and sealed. I guess no need to regrease it. And oh by the way you forgot one tip. Chain tension for more buttery drivetrain :)
bcd size doesnt directly mean you have wider choice of ''smoother'' or better quality chainrings(there is no problem finding high quality chainring for any size)but using a larger teeth number on the front allows you to use larger sprocket on the back, bigger chainring with bigger sprockets run smoother than smaller chainring with smaller sprockets with equal gear inches
Here's one, make sure your rear wheel is true. Cuz if that thing isn't quit true and you and install it that the rim seems straight, your cog might be in a slightly offset position. This happens mostly if you use your frame and brake calliper to true the wheel.
Hi Zach, My top tip for having a smooth drive train is to ensure it is properly tensioned. I find that too much slack can lead to poor power transfer and braking. Also, this one is going to sound obvious, but making sure your chain is clean and lubricated. I run a KMC X1 and use raceline chain oil and cleaner.
i put butter on my chain, deep fry it, put it in a ultra sonic wash, oil it, degrease it, put in on the bike, take it off, take 2 links off, change my bike, change the handelbar, grease setpost, then i deep fry my entire bike, by my chain, with duck milk butter, and it will feel crisp and buttery for ever
This advice really works!!! I had to sub the duck butter for penguin butter because ducks are limited in this part of FL but it seems to be working just fine! *use cold water when deep frying with penguin butter*
Chainline is the most neglected topic when it come to chains in general. This is the most important aspect to getting a smooth running chain drive. Without good chainline, it doesn't matter what components you are using. When I set up a chain drive, I put everything together without the chain and use a straight edge to measure the chainline to be sure it is right. Keep in mind, it's not just a line, the chainring and cog have to lye in the same PLANE. If the cog is twisted compared to the chainring, even tho it may be in the same line, it will still be rough. However, if your frame is not perfectly aligned, there is little you can do to correct that. Thus the reason for a good high quality frame. Thanks for the great video on my favorite subject. Now do bushing vs bushingless chains!
Having a straight chainline is highly overrated, especially on SS bikes. Chains are flexible for a reason and as long as tension is right it won't come off because it has no room to do so. I've built dozens and ridden dozens of SS/fixed bikes - none of them had perfect chainline and I've never had a problem. As for durability - I boil my chains in wax every 500-600 km and they last forever, one of my Miche Pistas chains are in use since 2015 (about 5-6 thousands km each season) and chain wear caliper still doesn't fit at 0.75 side.
Fixed gear bikes, a new rabbit hole to explore, thank you Zach Gallardo. Soon I'll hopefully smile riding a buttery smooth fixed gear too. Great vid thanks
I bought a Mercier Kilo TT pro and it came lit from the factory with a sugino 130bcd forged aluminium crankset. I swapped out the factory 16t cog and opted for a 17t dura ace 3/32nd cog. I must say, I have never had any issues and it gave me 17 skid patches evenly distributed throughout my rear tire. (pretty sweet) I currently run thickslick 25c's
If your chain has a tight spot at a specific crank arm position, I have a solution. Turn your drive crank arm to the tight spot, partially loosen all of the chainring bolts, squeeze the top and bottom chain runs together with your gloved left hand, and simultaneously retighten the chainring bolts with your right hand. This slightly shifts the chainring back, creating a little slack at the tight spot. This also reduces loose spots and allows overall less driveline slack, so more even wearing, smoother pedaling, and less likely for the chain to fall off from being too loose.
I learn soo much from your videos! Keep the good work! But please make Fixie points show every week! Those are your most entertaining videos!! Love your channel! Regards from São Paulo.
KMC track chain was a good investment. I prefer Surly chainrings but I'm still chasing a sleight grind under heavy load, will continue to monitor half-assedidly.
Cup and cone is far better than cartridge bearings because of the contact patch you can achieve with more bearings in between the cup and comes, while cartridge bearings need to have a ball spacer so you can’t have as many inside, plus cartridge bearings are far inferior when there is any load to the sides, as the balls get pressed against the sides causing huge friction, and I really recommend Phil grease
*the larger the BCD, the larger the MINIMUM chainring you can use. You can go up to unreasonable tooth counts on both 130 and 144 BCD but you can't go lower than maybe 40 tooth on a 144. The reality is that it doesn't really matter; when it comes time to replace your chainring just make sure you get the right size.
My daily-all arounder bike is a fixed gear, track parts are waaay to expensive here in Brazil so I still using steel cogs and chainrings, cheap and durable.
If I have 1/8 chain with 3/32 cog, will 3/32 chain tool remove/replace the cog? I recently replaced 1/8” cog with another 1/8” cog, and was able to remove cog, but not put the new one on, with my tool that is apparently for geared bikes. I had to take to co-op to put the new one on with their tools.
1. If you have a steel frame, it is not difficult to cold-set the stays with a threaded bar, qashers and hex nuts. Spacers are fine, but why use them? 2. I've been using 3/32 chains for fixed and single-speed for many years. They are quiet, smooth and strong.
Bolt Circle Diameter... Not center. And large BCD standards come from the old days when you needed the extra length to stop flex in the chain ring using large rings. In modern times (fixie tech seems to be stuck in the 1930s) 110BCD is what pros use because we can make chain rings as strong as we want. Track racing is still under strict UCI rules though and they stick to the old ways.
That chain is stretched, or too loose. all you need is: 8th" cog, 8th" chainring, 8th" chain correct chain tension, and lube. I suggest one drop of lube per roller. (it only takes 1 second per link and you've only got like 110 links) also replace your chain every few months
A decent chain should last thousands of miles/kilometers so unless you ride that much every couple of months, replacing a chain that often is ridiculous
Tip for post drivetrain work. Make sure to wash your hands and finger tips very very well before...say... playing a game on your iPad that involves sliding your thumb and fingers over your screen. A normal hand wash is not sufficient as you will still have minute pieces of stone and grease in the creases of your finger tips and this will create a lovely pattern of micro-scratches all over your iPad screen. Just a cautionary tale 😂🤣😂 fml
What is a solid bottom bracket that is not super expensive but easy to maintain too? Overhauling an old bike for my first build. Looking to make it a fixie too instead of a singe speed.
The best budget crankset you can buy is still the shimano alfine s501 single bashguard. 42,7 chainline, comes with a very good shimano hollowtech bb and 45 tooth should be large enough for most people. it has a 3/32" chainring. it also costs about half of what the omniums will run you, has regular road-standard q-factor, is widely available, does't use the shitty GXP BBs and the spare chainrings from shimano are really good value for the price. since the chainring size is 45, cog sizes 13, 14, 16 are OK. take off the bashguard, save 70 grams. Also, much stiffer than budget square taper cranksets. Also,Don't believe people that tell you That 1/8" drivetrains are best. they are much heavier, the chains are more expensive and last just as many miles. the chainring will wear more slowly. this is correct. since the interface is 33% wider, it does last a small bit longer. Also, 1/8" chains can not compensate for as much chainline offset as the smaller ones can.
Thanks man, I'm getting sick of square taper bottom brackets getting play and I've been on the lookout for a chainset just like this with a shimano hollowtech BB. Although it's not the prettiest thing in the world with that chainguard.
Question: After finding a compatible BB/crankset, and determining the correct shell width for my bike / if it's english or italian threaded, does spindle width matter that much? or is that something that can be tuned by changing the rear spacers?
Hey Zach, When I got my bike I had a shop tighten the crap out of my Cog. He said that since it was a cheaper bike(state core line), If i'm constantly skidding it will come loose and I will have to tighten it again. Will upgrading the cog prevent it from coming loose? Or should I invest in a tool to keep it tight? Thanks!
Nick Cantrell reapply the cog with loctite and get a better lockring. I had the same issue with a rear trispoke, the lock ring I had wasn’t great so I got a beefier one and the bike mechanic added loctite on the threads, now it never slips
Hi, Am doing a rebuild of a Bianchi pista usa 2007. I want to place a need rotor 3D 144 bcd cranckset, but i don´t know what type of BB i can use to use this new cranckset. can you help?
I was thinking the same thing and realized you can't break a carbon belt down the same way you can with a chain/ master-link. So I guess you need to be able to dismantle the rear triangle somehow. I love the Gates products, the rear cogs look sooo nice.
3/32 white industries 16 tooth blue single speed freewheel did not work well with 1/8 chain. it fell off often resulting in me falling off. It never happened with 3/32 chainring and chain
@zach Gallardo hello friend. I realy love the simplicity of a single speed bike but my question is, can i do my commute 8km to work and 8 way home so 16km round with 2km 9% grade to work and 2km 9% grade on the way home, i realy cant get that swetty and i Walk on my job 15km each day. I already commute with a geared bike. Is it ok, and if so wich gear ratio would you sugest or a geared hub wich One? Keep doing your great work!!
To me a sealed bottom bracket is not worth the time cuz I just an extra tool I have to have in my toolbox why should I use an extra tool to when I get used to tools caught a flat head and a 12 oz hammer
Idol alam ko po pinoy kapo no? Maaayos pa po ba yung nagewang na chainring onting gewang lang po gagkaganon daw po gawa ng inaahon ng bundok na heavygearings salamat po idol sana po matulungan nyo ko salamat po..
i have one its an ok bike but comes with some not so good components. i recommend you get an unknown or a aventon complete. also make sure you get the right size for you
Antonio Delev if you're only doing everyday come its totally fine, if you're gonna be using it for crits or velodrome probably swap out the wheelset and crankset
It went together easily in less than an hour. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
The reason 3/32 doesn’t work well with 1/8 is beautiful usually if ur using this your cog and chain ring are garbage and wont be smooth no matter what you do lol 🤙🏻 if u have dura ace thats a different story
i dont know if my question will be related but why does my chain tension change when the pedal turns? one part will be tight then another half spin it will be loose, i already have changed my chain twice, both are new. it still does do its job as a chain but it just bothers me if it will wear my drivetrain faster and the chain might jump at high cadence + bouncy ride (downhill)
Sometimes with new chains it's like that until you put some miles on them and even out the stress a on it a little bit, and chain tension is never perfectly even. It's also possible you wore down your drivetrain with an old chain, and as a result, the new chain doesn't fit; you can test this by putting your old worn chain back on and see if it still does that. Anyway, you're not going to wear down a drivetrain anymore than it is by putting a new chain on.
OK, #1: Your pronunciation of difficult to speak words is perfectly fine. It is funny how you do draw attention to it though. #2 NO FILLER WORDS!!! You don’t have filler words when you speak and in my view is a huge reason for your success. Just saying....
Question of the day: what are your top tips for getting a buttery smooth drivetrain?
Zach Gallardo just keep it well lubricated, no need to waste money of njs or any of that jazz. Unless you want that street cred tho.
clean, lube, make sure chain isn't tight
You should grease the spindle in outboard like omniums. Cause cranks spinning in like 100+ rpm or so depending on your ration with applied pressure. It will potential destroy the external bearing and even the cromo spindle. But if it's a square tapred and sealed. I guess no need to regrease it. And oh by the way you forgot one tip. Chain tension for more buttery drivetrain :)
bcd size doesnt directly mean you have wider choice of ''smoother'' or better quality chainrings(there is no problem finding high quality chainring for any size)but using a larger teeth number on the front allows you to use larger sprocket on the back, bigger chainring with bigger sprockets run smoother than smaller chainring with smaller sprockets with equal gear inches
Here's one, make sure your rear wheel is true.
Cuz if that thing isn't quit true and you and install it that the rim seems straight, your cog might be in a slightly offset position.
This happens mostly if you use your frame and brake calliper to true the wheel.
Hi Zach,
My top tip for having a smooth drive train is to ensure it is properly tensioned. I find that too much slack can lead to poor power transfer and braking. Also, this one is going to sound obvious, but making sure your chain is clean and lubricated. I run a KMC X1 and use raceline chain oil and cleaner.
I am not even a fixed gear guy but I do enjoy watching zach's vids. :D
parehas tayo idol !
same.
hello sir ian
uy unli ahon :)
Gagste.
i put butter on my chain, deep fry it, put it in a ultra sonic wash, oil it, degrease it, put in on the bike, take it off, take 2 links off, change my bike, change the handelbar, grease setpost, then i deep fry my entire bike, by my chain, with duck milk butter, and it will feel crisp and buttery for ever
Try a Buttermilk bath next time for your chain :)
This advice really works!!! I had to sub the duck butter for penguin butter because ducks are limited in this part of FL but it seems to be working just fine!
*use cold water when deep frying with penguin butter*
Chainline is the most neglected topic when it come to chains in general. This is the most important aspect to getting a smooth running chain drive. Without good chainline, it doesn't matter what components you are using. When I set up a chain drive, I put everything together without the chain and use a straight edge to measure the chainline to be sure it is right. Keep in mind, it's not just a line, the chainring and cog have to lye in the same PLANE. If the cog is twisted compared to the chainring, even tho it may be in the same line, it will still be rough. However, if your frame is not perfectly aligned, there is little you can do to correct that. Thus the reason for a good high quality frame. Thanks for the great video on my favorite subject.
Now do bushing vs bushingless chains!
Having a straight chainline is highly overrated, especially on SS bikes. Chains are flexible for a reason and as long as tension is right it won't come off because it has no room to do so.
I've built dozens and ridden dozens of SS/fixed bikes - none of them had perfect chainline and I've never had a problem.
As for durability - I boil my chains in wax every 500-600 km and they last forever, one of my Miche Pistas chains are in use since 2015 (about 5-6 thousands km each season) and chain wear caliper still doesn't fit at 0.75 side.
Fixed gear bikes, a new rabbit hole to explore, thank you Zach Gallardo. Soon I'll hopefully smile riding a buttery smooth fixed gear too. Great vid thanks
Top tip: keep the drive train clean. Wipe down the chain, chain ring and cog after every ride. Add a bit of chain oil every 500 miles or so.
I like how casual this video was! The asides were nice breaks in between all the info you pack (good thing) into these videos!
I bought a Mercier Kilo TT pro and it came lit from the factory with a sugino 130bcd forged aluminium crankset. I swapped out the factory 16t cog and opted for a 17t dura ace 3/32nd cog. I must say, I have never had any issues and it gave me 17 skid patches evenly distributed throughout my rear tire. (pretty sweet) I currently run thickslick 25c's
If your chain has a tight spot at a specific crank arm position, I have a solution. Turn your drive crank arm to the tight spot, partially loosen all of the chainring bolts, squeeze the top and bottom chain runs together with your gloved left hand, and simultaneously retighten the chainring bolts with your right hand. This slightly shifts the chainring back, creating a little slack at the tight spot. This also reduces loose spots and allows overall less driveline slack, so more even wearing, smoother pedaling, and less likely for the chain to fall off from being too loose.
I learn soo much from your videos! Keep the good work!
But please make Fixie points show every week! Those are your most entertaining videos!!
Love your channel! Regards from São Paulo.
KMC track chain was a good investment. I prefer Surly chainrings but I'm still chasing a sleight grind under heavy load, will continue to monitor half-assedidly.
2:18
'My DuraAce crank set', shows Sugino's.
I'm pretty sure he's talking about the chainring, I know.
BlueSlenderman, yeah spotted that also, he mean’t chainring.
Cup and cone is far better than cartridge bearings because of the contact patch you can achieve with more bearings in between the cup and comes, while cartridge bearings need to have a ball spacer so you can’t have as many inside, plus cartridge bearings are far inferior when there is any load to the sides, as the balls get pressed against the sides causing huge friction, and I really recommend Phil grease
*the larger the BCD, the larger the MINIMUM chainring you can use. You can go up to unreasonable tooth counts on both 130 and 144 BCD but you can't go lower than maybe 40 tooth on a 144. The reality is that it doesn't really matter; when it comes time to replace your chainring just make sure you get the right size.
bump
My advice is to that Phil wood grease if you ride anywhere wet like London. It’s properly waterproofing compared to other brands.
Minor correction but it's "bolt circle diameter"
Yup
Does the two sizes make a difference in speed?
My daily-all arounder bike is a fixed gear, track parts are waaay to expensive here in Brazil so I still using steel cogs and chainrings, cheap and durable.
I imagine you’ll have it in part 2 but it really should have had it in part one but proper lubrication of a chain is essential
If I have 1/8 chain with 3/32 cog, will 3/32 chain tool remove/replace the cog? I recently replaced 1/8” cog with another 1/8” cog, and was able to remove cog, but not put the new one on, with my tool that is apparently for geared bikes. I had to take to co-op to put the new one on with their tools.
you can bump out your cog by using bb spacers to perfect the chainline
1. If you have a steel frame, it is not difficult to cold-set the stays with a threaded bar, qashers and hex nuts.
Spacers are fine, but why use them?
2. I've been using 3/32 chains for fixed and single-speed for many years. They are quiet, smooth and strong.
I'd add chain tensioners in there to offput chain stretch if you ride a lot of hills.
I've been thinking on converting my old mtb to a fixie is so can ask you, is there a specific crank and chains to be use on
Bolt Circle Diameter... Not center. And large BCD standards come from the old days when you needed the extra length to stop flex in the chain ring using large rings. In modern times (fixie tech seems to be stuck in the 1930s) 110BCD is what pros use because we can make chain rings as strong as we want. Track racing is still under strict UCI rules though and they stick to the old ways.
hehe, if 3/32" is hard to say, use metric :P
Wait if you don't grease your spindles then what do you do to prevent seizing,ware and fusion?
That chain is stretched, or too loose.
all you need is:
8th" cog,
8th" chainring,
8th" chain
correct chain tension,
and lube.
I suggest one drop of lube per roller.
(it only takes 1 second per link and you've only got like 110 links)
also replace your chain every few months
A decent chain should last thousands of miles/kilometers so unless you ride that much every couple of months, replacing a chain that often is ridiculous
Zach. My friend tell to me. Is aerodynamic crankset is not designed to skidding style. Is it true?
Tip for post drivetrain work. Make sure to wash your hands and finger tips very very well before...say... playing a game on your iPad that involves sliding your thumb and fingers over your screen. A normal hand wash is not sufficient as you will still have minute pieces of stone and grease in the creases of your finger tips and this will create a lovely pattern of micro-scratches all over your iPad screen. Just a cautionary tale 😂🤣😂 fml
thank you for the more recent upload schedule
I have that same fsa chainring and it runs really smooth. I love it
If I use a generic lockring with my dura ace cog, will I lose fixie points?
What is a solid bottom bracket that is not super expensive but easy to maintain too? Overhauling an old bike for my first build. Looking to make it a fixie too instead of a singe speed.
I SNAPPED MY BB SPINDLE AND TOOK A BAD SPILL TODAY!!! IDK if my BB too small or if I overtighten... BUT shit....
The best budget crankset you can buy is still the shimano alfine s501 single bashguard. 42,7 chainline, comes with a very good shimano hollowtech bb and 45 tooth should be large enough for most people. it has a 3/32" chainring. it also costs about half of what the omniums will run you, has regular road-standard q-factor, is widely available, does't use the shitty GXP BBs and the spare chainrings from shimano are really good value for the price. since the chainring size is 45, cog sizes 13, 14, 16 are OK. take off the bashguard, save 70 grams. Also, much stiffer than budget square taper cranksets.
Also,Don't believe people that tell you That 1/8" drivetrains are best. they are much heavier, the chains are more expensive and last just as many miles. the chainring will wear more slowly. this is correct. since the interface is 33% wider, it does last a small bit longer. Also, 1/8" chains can not compensate for as much chainline offset as the smaller ones can.
Thanks man, I'm getting sick of square taper bottom brackets getting play and I've been on the lookout for a chainset just like this with a shimano hollowtech BB. Although it's not the prettiest thing in the world with that chainguard.
Jude Dodd I took mine off for that very reason. You'll need shorter bolts and the look isn't for everyone, but i actually kinda like it.
Philwood grease is for overhauling vintage campy super record or Shimano Dura Ace Hubs
Ethan Brackett no Phil is for everything
Hi Zack, I´m wondering if can I use a 3/32 chain on a 1/8 cog and crankset?
Is a sugino GP worth getting? I run one myself and it seems alright.
What do you think about the 8 bar team running 11 spd chains with chain rings and cogs to match?
Make a video for a hybrid bmx fixie bike.
I clean my chain in gasoline. Then rub a stick of butter on my chain while spinning my cranks.
I have a terrible habit tightening my chain... I have to have slack to NOT wear out my chainring and cog faster.
Question: After finding a compatible BB/crankset, and determining the correct shell width for my bike / if it's english or italian threaded, does spindle width matter that much? or is that something that can be tuned by changing the rear spacers?
Hey Zach, When I got my bike I had a shop tighten the crap out of my Cog. He said that since it was a cheaper bike(state core line), If i'm constantly skidding it will come loose and I will have to tighten it again. Will upgrading the cog prevent it from coming loose? Or should I invest in a tool to keep it tight? Thanks!
Nick Cantrell reapply the cog with loctite and get a better lockring. I had the same issue with a rear trispoke, the lock ring I had wasn’t great so I got a beefier one and the bike mechanic added loctite on the threads, now it never slips
@@ChillOutDood Awesome thanks for the tip!
Big chainring, big cogs for ultimate smoothness and 99.9% efficiency.
Hi,
Am doing a rebuild of a Bianchi pista usa 2007. I want to place a need rotor 3D 144 bcd cranckset, but i don´t know what type of BB i can use to use this new cranckset. can you help?
Thanks for the video. Can I use the Shimano fc-cx70 46t chainring on a fixie?
Zack gaining some muscles!
solid content
Hey Zach! Great video! But I got one question, what do you think about carbon belts for your fixed gear? Instead of a normal chain
Lucas Soares I’m wondering the same thing...
I was thinking the same thing and realized you can't break a carbon belt down the same way you can with a chain/ master-link. So I guess you need to be able to dismantle the rear triangle somehow. I love the Gates products, the rear cogs look sooo nice.
Can y'all recommend the best 130 bcd chaining for my S300 sram? also something that looks good would be great not just standard looking ones
@Bebo Upgraded to a new crankset, thanks for the info and help tho
Upgraded to a miche Air crankset got em for a really good price
the component and tool recommendations link is broken, can you relink it?
How do i fix the ticking feel/sound on my non drive crankarm?
Can i use kmc peanut chain to a narrow wide chainring?
3/32 white industries 16 tooth blue single speed freewheel did not work well with 1/8 chain. it fell off often resulting in me falling off. It never happened with 3/32 chainring and chain
Any recommendations for a solid 130 BCD chainring??
Don't forget to clean old built up grease on chain and cogs
any thoughts on using 11 speed road chains for fixed?
I wonder if 4 cogs in the back will work with a ss chain...one way to find out!
(kinda works)
I actually greased my spindle or else it would keep creakin like I'm debo roll down the street from Friday
Séamuis thanks for the info, I will check it out
However, if I wanted to implement a Ominous and Eerie feeling to my ride, I want the creak, keeps people on edge
@zach Gallardo hello friend. I realy love the simplicity of a single speed bike but my question is, can i do my commute 8km to work and 8 way home so 16km round with 2km 9% grade to work and 2km 9% grade on the way home, i realy cant get that swetty and i Walk on my job 15km each day. I already commute with a geared bike. Is it ok, and if so wich gear ratio would you sugest or a geared hub wich One? Keep doing your great work!!
48x17 or 48x18 should be fine
damn I wish I had seen this video before upgrading my crankset
for 130 BCD chainrings look at BMX racing ones
To me a sealed bottom bracket is not worth the time cuz I just an extra tool I have to have in my toolbox why should I use an extra tool to when I get used to tools caught a flat head and a 12 oz hammer
Did anybody else smash that like button
whats a good fixed gear chain!?
Modehfyable I run a Izumi jet chain. It’s super smooth, hasn’t stretched yet, and it’s black/gold so it looks nice.
hello seguno pista is good?
Any more reasonably dangerous shirts coming?
Zach+Daddy=Zaddy
Can i use stock crank for mtb
I agree with you on non sealed bbs but I'd still fight you (for fun obv)
Idol alam ko po pinoy kapo no?
Maaayos pa po ba yung nagewang na chainring onting gewang lang po gagkaganon daw po gawa ng inaahon ng bundok na heavygearings salamat po idol sana po matulungan nyo ko salamat po..
Useful stuff ! Thanks!
I ride a geared bike. I dont know what a straight line chain is
Can you do KCNC vs SRAM Omnium
Very informative 👍
Thank you.
What about 151 bcd bro?
Can you do FGFS???
can you tell ur thoughts on the crew district bike?
i have one its an ok bike but comes with some not so good components. i recommend you get an unknown or a aventon complete. also make sure you get the right size for you
I already ordered one and I live in canada so it was really expensive. whats bad about the bike
Antonio Delev if you're only doing everyday come its totally fine, if you're gonna be using it for crits or velodrome probably swap out the wheelset and crankset
ya im just gonna be riding on the street and medium commutes, but I think ill upgrade the cranks later on.
thanks guys
your videos are great and the sound is good enough... but why not go to the next level with audio quality? this is your job right?
Pretty sure he's a student and this is just his past time.
It went together easily in less than an hour. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
The reason 3/32 doesn’t work well with 1/8 is beautiful usually if ur using this your cog and chain ring are garbage and wont be smooth no matter what you do lol 🤙🏻 if u have dura ace thats a different story
i dont know if my question will be related but why does my chain tension change when the pedal turns? one part will be tight then another half spin it will be loose, i already have changed my chain twice, both are new. it still does do its job as a chain but it just bothers me if it will wear my drivetrain faster and the chain might jump at high cadence + bouncy ride (downhill)
Not all chainrings are perfectly round for a reason
chainring roundness, chain tension, or maybe you're spun out and need a bigger gear ratio. try swapping out your cog
thank you, im really suspecting it is the chain ring that is in fault here though i am not seeing any signs of wear.
I had this problem on a shimano freewheel. I rode it till the bearing wore out and put an acs on it. Problem solved.
Sometimes with new chains it's like that until you put some miles on them and even out the stress a on it a little bit, and chain tension is never perfectly even. It's also possible you wore down your drivetrain with an old chain, and as a result, the new chain doesn't fit; you can test this by putting your old worn chain back on and see if it still does that. Anyway, you're not going to wear down a drivetrain anymore than it is by putting a new chain on.
Oh my god that rotor 3d
So uhh, I have a 42 mm chainline
What would give me more points
Sugino 75
Sugino grand mighty
Sram Omniums
Dura Ace 7710
Rotor 3d
Campy record pista
Miche Pista
I’d say grand mighty, cos they’re rare and expensive
I went DA 7710’s, but they’re surprisingly common.
Sugino Aero Mighty crankarms with S Cubic coated Sugino zen. Most bling you can ever get while still maintaining class.
Rotor aero
My crankset be creaking
OK, #1: Your pronunciation of difficult to speak words is perfectly fine. It is funny how you do draw attention to it though. #2 NO FILLER WORDS!!! You don’t have filler words when you speak and in my view is a huge reason for your success. Just saying....
Smoove
bolt circle diameter*
it's bolt circle diameter my dude
lol that $50 chainring is now double the price
11 speed chain is the solution, ask german track team
*interest spiked*
Is it universal for any single speed chainring width?
Zach talks like he has 300 k subs not 30
PurpleDreams fake it till you make it
🤤
“Three thirty seconds” if an inch. Not “three thirty secondths”
idroppedmypocket actually, it is pronounced „2,38mm“
?
You can't say "fat" anymore... It's not politically correct... "Obese" is now the proper term. FYI.
Edit: forgot to say great video dude.
can a oval assymetrical chain ring can be used on fixed gears???
Yes, Sheldon Brown said he preferred Biopace rings for fixed gear.
Mark DiChiara o wow i thought like the chain would snap or something lol