Nice build. The lock is the weakest part of the setup and can be broken and removed faster than it can be unlocked using a key. You might want to think about a hardened steel pin and a high security padlock.
Good Lord. My thought on seeing such a stout locking mechanism on a shed was, "wow, there must be some amazing treasure in there to warrant such an aggressively strong locking mechanism. I'm going to definitely just saw my way through the wall to get that treasure!" But, that bar and the fixtures look awesome and seem to work so smoothly. VERY nice work.
Locks keep honest people honest. If a thief wants your stuff then they will find a way. Talking to a cop said was a thief who took years to catch was cutting holes in roof of people’s homes to gain access
Would love some more info on what size materials you used. I know you said you used 3/16” plate steel to build the U channels but what are the dimensions? It looks like you measured 1 3/4” wide by 6 1/2” in length for each U channel. Would I be correct in saying that? You then mounted the U channel to another plate of 3/16”. What were the length and width of those plates? What size square tube did you use (length & diameter)? What size holes did you drill in those plates? Why did you use 4” carriage bolts on two of them and 5” bolts on the other? Which went where? Thanks for any advice and info. Looks like a great method of securing the doors. Best I’ve seen yet. All of the stuff you buy online is crap in in quality of materials compared to yours.
Hi Richard, none of the dimensions are critical in this build and most of them are custom to fit my particular door opening. I used a 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" square tube 1/8" wall thickness and it's 68" long. To make the u channel it needs to be long enough to fit around three sides of the square tube with a little wiggle room for the bar to slide through. I think mine were 1 5/8" wide and 5 1/4" in length. The bends were made at 1 3/4" increments and this gave me just over 1/8" clearance on three sides for the square tube to slide through easily. The u channels were welded to a 3/16" plate that was 1 5/8" X 4 1/2". I don't remember what size hole I drilled into the mounting plates. It was what ever size hole needed to accommodate the square portion of the carriage bolt so the head would sit flush with the outside surface then tack welded into place so they don't spin when you tighten the nut on the other end. I used 4" carriage bolts to go through the door because those are going through the thin side (1 1/2") of a 2x4 board. I used the 5" carriage bolts to go through the door frame. The door frame bolts needed to be longer because they are going through the 2x4 boards on the thicker side of the board. (3 1/2") Hopefully this will help you out and I wish you the best with your project.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 thanks for laying that all out for me. Having the dimensions really helps! One other quick question…I bought the same lock you did off of the link you provided. I saw another video where you sured up the lock with some tubular steel. What size steel did you use? And what length did you cut them to? Thanks again.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 again…thanks for the info. I appreciate you taking the time out of your schedule to respond and provide the info. Great video.
I built one exactly the same. The only issue is i think thieves would just cut the bar in half rather than tackle the lock. Did you put anything inside the long bar for extra thickness?
No I didn’t add anything to the bar. You have a good point. People will get into anything if they want to bad enough. I’m pretty sure my shed is the toughest to get into in my neighborhood and this will slow them down quite significantly.
Looking at this. The DIY requires welding..... Could you do this with off the shelf items? I'm thinking large eye screws screwed or bolted in with a long steel piece threaded through and a locking mechanism from that.....
A. It OTT, but I thought about a design where you could put a layer of metal grid mesh between the outer and inner layers of the shed. Would take some fabrication and possibly over engineered. But if it’s between keeping your tools safe to not, worth it to slow them down. I think I’m going to use that methodology to build an inner cage for tool storage
Thanks, yes and yes on the mig and tig welding. You're right about the hinges. I may go back and replace a screw on each plate of each hinge with a through bolt and nut on the inside. Thanks for your input!
Cool idea as a way to slow people down I guess. But with modern battery powered tools it wouldnt take long to cut that up. Or maybe even a large pair of bolt cutters like I have.
Sorry but I don't make them to sell, it would cost way too much to ship. You can find some commercial ones on the internet if you do a search for "shed security locking bar".
Sounds like allot of rubbing on that nice protective paint. Maybe adding a layer of hard plastic to the inside of those holders would make it easier to slide and protect the paint from damage somthing like a milk jug thickness... Black so maybe old cut up oil container cleaned out.. candle wax on the bottom or black crayon couldn't hurt I don't think🤔 depending on weather and heat down there it might melt off and make a mess...
See all my DIY Shed Build videos here - th-cam.com/play/PLC_QVs9y_q3tAXy20aNUBBd79fsqD2QCk.html
So far yours seems to be the best method I've seen. I'm going to use this, since I too enjoy fabricating my own stuff.
Thank you, I wish you the best with your project.
Nice work Bruce
As usual
Your welding skills have improved immensely
Thanks Scott, I appreciate that. Practice definitely helps 😀
Great video on a brilliant solution!
Greetings from a new subscriber in Sweden
Thanks and welcome!
Absolutely love it..pure genius
Really great fabrication.... well thought out.
Thank you, I appreciate that!
Nice build Bruce and your welds look amazing, well done on all counts.
Thank you Thomas, I really appreciate that.
Fantastic video. God bless 🙏
Thank you! You too!
Nice build. The lock is the weakest part of the setup and can be broken and removed faster than it can be unlocked using a key. You might want to think about a hardened steel pin and a high security padlock.
That is a good point Kevin and definitely something worth considering. I appreciate your comment.
Good Lord. My thought on seeing such a stout locking mechanism on a shed was, "wow, there must be some amazing treasure in there to warrant such an aggressively strong locking mechanism. I'm going to definitely just saw my way through the wall to get that treasure!" But, that bar and the fixtures look awesome and seem to work so smoothly. VERY nice work.
Locks keep honest people honest. If a thief wants your stuff then they will find a way. Talking to a cop said was a thief who took years to catch was cutting holes in roof of people’s homes to gain access
At least this will keep the honest people and lazy thieves out. 😂
Your so right, that's why. I'm going to secure a fence and three mean ass dogs, I'm turning loose when I'm not home.
I love this idea & have so many ideas for its use. I feel that we've jut got to find a way to protect the lock from being picked tho.
Looks great.
Thank you!
Would love some more info on what size materials you used. I know you said you used 3/16” plate steel to build the U channels but what are the dimensions? It looks like you measured 1 3/4” wide by 6 1/2” in length for each U channel. Would I be correct in saying that? You then mounted the U channel to another plate of 3/16”. What were the length and width of those plates? What size square tube did you use (length & diameter)? What size holes did you drill in those plates? Why did you use 4” carriage bolts on two of them and 5” bolts on the other? Which went where? Thanks for any advice and info. Looks like a great method of securing the doors. Best I’ve seen yet. All of the stuff you buy online is crap in in quality of materials compared to yours.
Hi Richard, none of the dimensions are critical in this build and most of them are custom to fit my particular door opening. I used a 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" square tube 1/8" wall thickness and it's 68" long. To make the u channel it needs to be long enough to fit around three sides of the square tube with a little wiggle room for the bar to slide through. I think mine were 1 5/8" wide and 5 1/4" in length. The bends were made at 1 3/4" increments and this gave me just over 1/8" clearance on three sides for the square tube to slide through easily. The u channels were welded to a 3/16" plate that was 1 5/8" X 4 1/2". I don't remember what size hole I drilled into the mounting plates. It was what ever size hole needed to accommodate the square portion of the carriage bolt so the head would sit flush with the outside surface then tack welded into place so they don't spin when you tighten the nut on the other end. I used 4" carriage bolts to go through the door because those are going through the thin side (1 1/2") of a 2x4 board. I used the 5" carriage bolts to go through the door frame. The door frame bolts needed to be longer because they are going through the 2x4 boards on the thicker side of the board. (3 1/2") Hopefully this will help you out and I wish you the best with your project.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 thanks for laying that all out for me. Having the dimensions really helps! One other quick question…I bought the same lock you did off of the link you provided. I saw another video where you sured up the lock with some tubular steel. What size steel did you use? And what length did you cut them to? Thanks again.
The tubing is 1 - 1/2" OD 1/8" wall thickness. The top tube is 2" and the bottom tube is 2 - 1/2" in length.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 again…thanks for the info. I appreciate you taking the time out of your schedule to respond and provide the info. Great video.
No problem at all. It's nice to know my video helped you out.
love it! curious what you would do for a sliding door with only a top track
I built one exactly the same. The only issue is i think thieves would just cut the bar in half rather than tackle the lock. Did you put anything inside the long bar for extra thickness?
No I didn’t add anything to the bar. You have a good point. People will get into anything if they want to bad enough. I’m pretty sure my shed is the toughest to get into in my neighborhood and this will slow them down quite significantly.
Yeah that's it, can only slow them down. I like the lock part on the bar. Might do that on mine. Nice work 👍@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10
Thank you, I appreciate that!
With battery circular saws available. They would just go to the back wall and cut a hole to get in.
cool that you can tag weld also!
I meant TIG weld! 😁
Excellent this locking bar better the what people are selling
How much to make one 1600mm wide
Sorry but I don't build them to sell. It would cost way too much to ship it and no one would want to pay what it costs.
Looking at this. The DIY requires welding..... Could you do this with off the shelf items? I'm thinking large eye screws screwed or bolted in with a long steel piece threaded through and a locking mechanism from that.....
nice design! it would be easier for someone to rip a sheet of T1-11 siding off and make entry thru the wall.
Thanks and I agree, the quickest way into the shed without a key would be going through a wall.
A. It OTT, but I thought about a design where you could put a layer of metal grid mesh between the outer and inner layers of the shed. Would take some fabrication and possibly over engineered. But if it’s between keeping your tools safe to not, worth it to slow them down. I think I’m going to use that methodology to build an inner cage for tool storage
Good work! Is that just a normal mig welder? (& tig on end cap work?)
You need cover plates over the hinges!
Thanks, yes and yes on the mig and tig welding. You're right about the hinges. I may go back and replace a screw on each plate of each hinge with a through bolt and nut on the inside. Thanks for your input!
Too bad I need a welder, all the tools and way more practice to make it. Amazing video though. Great work!
Thanks 👍
Perfect thank you
You're welcome Jerold! Thanks for watching!
You could protect the lock by welding square tubing shield on top and bottom, top just high enough to make the lock flange inaccessible
And a square tube on the bottom just allowing access to the key insert hole. Push the lock up with a dowel to remove.
That is a good idea! That may be a near future project.
Row of dimes on those welds, very clean
Thanks Lamont, I appreciate that! 👍
Interesting !
Cool idea as a way to slow people down I guess. But with modern battery powered tools it wouldnt take long to cut that up. Or maybe even a large pair of bolt cutters like I have.
Where can I buy it instead?
I really don't know, maybe you can do a search on the internet and find someone who sells them.
Can you make me one and how much? I also have a double door shed
Sorry but I don't make them to sell, it would cost way too much to ship. You can find some commercial ones on the internet if you do a search for "shed security locking bar".
Sounds like allot of rubbing on that nice protective paint. Maybe adding a layer of hard plastic to the inside of those holders would make it easier to slide and protect the paint from damage somthing like a milk jug thickness... Black so maybe old cut up oil container cleaned out.. candle wax on the bottom or black crayon couldn't hurt I don't think🤔 depending on weather and heat down there it might melt off and make a mess...
dont wear gloves using a drill press ....clamp it or a vice
The cordless grinder with a cutting wheel has made it nearly impossible to secure anything. I could be in that shed in 2 minutes
But you'd have to turn on a wood chipper to disguise your work.
Build me one too