Finally picked up the Oregon 410-120 chain sharpener. It's all set up and ready to try out, so let's see how it does! Contact me: homesteadhoosier@gmail.com
Great video. Just got kne and have done about 20 chains so far. Mix of brands. Kind of fun to mess around with angles and what not. Its a enjoyable way to kill some time.
Think its time I bought one of these, this is the recommended grinder for use w/the square-jig (which is simply an excellent invention which allows you to sharpen square-chisel chain teeth on this grinder) -if you don't know what square-chisel is well its a far faster cutting and more durable tooth shape than the round-chisel or semi-chisel chains, but its a pain to do it by hand and a simington square grinder is $1400- but I also have interest in doing different angles using the regular round-ground and this grinder has it.. for the many thousands of $ in saws and splitters and assorted cutting tools/gear its about time I upgraded from a $20 harbor freight plastic pos and went to Oregon. Shame though that this model is now made in China
This is the best explanation of the "tilt" angle that is out there. Better than Oregon's own site. Excellent visuals on how to set all the angles. Excellent demo on grinding down the rakers, including that you didn't do it at 90, more like an 80 degree so that it slides through while still maintaining the proper gap.
Thank you! Glad you liked it! It’s been an amazing machine, far and away better than the little rural king special I was using before, though of course I now have all kinds of friends and family wanting chains sharpened haha
I agree with Glen. Great job! I have one of these and two love it much better than the 28 dollar Harbor Freight sharpener I also have. Just knocked out 4 chains this past weekend. On a side note if you really want to speed up the cutting get a Husqvarna😜 Just kidding of course but I do love my Husqvarna XP saws. Stihl makes a hell of a saw as well.
Looking at getting the 520 version of this sharpener. This was very helpful. Laughed at the ending too... My cat was literally bothering me here the whole time watching so - I feel your pain. :) Thanks for doing this video.
Ive been thinking about getting one of these nicer chain grinders having only ever had ahold of the cheap harbor freight ones before and i have to say the only thing i dont like out of it is the idea of using the grinder to set the rakers. I see how the full adjustability of the angles and different grinding rock specifically for the rakers would very much allow one to use it to do so but i just feel like there would be enough of a margin of error allowed in doing so instead of using a flat file and gauge to do it by hand. That allows you to set each individual raker to the spec of its tooth. I feel like the grinder would allow for either taking too much off or not enough where you end up judging the rakers by eye and gauge after trimming it down. Thats just me, i know a lot of others probably dont see an issue with it but ive mainly hand filed what time ive used saws to begin with so im sure one could understand my perspective.
Thank you!! It’s been really nice to refresh the chains after a few filings in the field, and the machine is pretty quick and easy to use once you know how to set it up!
I just now saw this video, and while I know one cut before and one cut after sharpening isn't exactly robust science, I was still surprised the difference in cutting time was only 6 seconds (28 vs. 34 seconds). I was expecting it to be cut perhaps by half, so it was a bit of a letdown to see a smaller difference. Since you've had this chain sharpener for two years and presumably are still using it, have you found the cutting times to be more drastically reduced overall than the one in the video?
@@linogz1331 one advantage with this sharpener over cheaper ones is that you can angle the chain sideways. Some chains have the top of the cutters angeled down sideways, 10 degrees i think. With this Oregon sharpener it's easy to compensate for that.
He’s right, most consumer chains get a 10 degree tilt. The Stihl quick file is awesome for in the field sharpening between bench grinder sharpening too! It hits the teeth and rakers together at the same time.
Good morning, great video. When you ground the rakers, did you set the cutting head at 0? The manual says to dress the wheel? But the way you did it makes sense to me. Thanks Jason
Yes I put the head back to 0 to keep them flat. The grinder came with three wheels, with one being just a flat square edged wheel which I use for the rakers. I haven’t dressed any wheels yet, but I believe if you want you can keep the head at an angle and dress the square wheel to be flat at that angle, if that makes sense?
You’re taking the depth gauges/rakers down every few sharpens too? Some advice I got early on was to use one size smaller file on a new chain, then move up to the one it calls for once it’s about half tooth. This helps to keep the gullet properly shaped and the teeth properly sharpened. I assume you’re sharpening with a file? If you’re dulling that quickly I would have to assume it’s something other than the sharpening, like the type of wood you’re cutting, if it has ice or dirt on it, if you’re getting into the dirt at all, etc.
I believe the more expensive one has more steel and magnesium body construction and parts. The one I have has a few plastic bits on it, and some metal that could be a bit thicker and heavier duty if it were meant more toward commercial use like the costlier version.
the "stop" that the backside of the tooth is pushed against, has anyone else found it's in the path of the grinding stone once the tooth has used about 50% of its life/width? i can get my chains sharpened with this unit but they never seem to be as sharp (nor stay sharpened) as when they 1st come out of the box. the other struggle is only taking off a tiny bit of material with each sharpening. i've tried turning the depth knob only around 1/8 of the way around but doesn't seem to give consistent results.
I haven’t noticed the backstop being in the way with even 25% tooth remaining honestly, are your angles set to the recommendation from the manual?? If by depth knob your talking about the one that controls how far the head comes down, I set it a little higher than needed because there’s a little flex in it if you pull it down harder. That way I can pull a little harder but get better consistency with how deep I actually go with it, because it only seems to flex to a certain point.
@@HoosierHomesteaders i was actually referring to the knob that controls the position of the backstop. my goal was to barely turn it from the last position used so that each time i barely take any metal off. watching a bunch of videos today, it appears most are going thru a few steps with each sharpening to try to find the optimal position of the backstop.
Yeah. It changes from one side to the other, and even from one tooth to the next depending on your hand sharpening. I try to find a spot that takes the least amount off as possible while still getting the majority of the teeth, as I know it’s best to have them all the same. I’d rather take a little less off though than end up grinding each down to the length of the shortest one or two.
The back stop your talking about adjust from side to side according to which side of the chain your using . the difference in the the lengths of the tooth come about mostly from improper hand filing and or misuse of the deemed type tools it also come about because of running the teeth through fence wire nails and dirt and yes some of it comes from inaccurate use it the grinder . what you actually have is if you hit a rock a nail or keep trying to cut with a dull chain and keep trying to saw after hitting objects you cause yet further damage to the chain . That's why you find people at a loss as to how to use grinder in a lot of cases and also why you chins with the teeth shorter on one side than the other . also some people think after you set the angles and grind one side of the chain after doing one side all you have to do is flip the chain around and you are preset to do the otherwise which is hardly ever the case you have to set both sides . so the answer to the problem has multiple issues .
Thankyou for the head tilt explanation, you said it in five secounds, othere people tried to say it in 12 MINUTES
Thanks very much. I have Stihl chains to do hopefully it works out ok.
Great video. Just got kne and have done about 20 chains so far. Mix of brands. Kind of fun to mess around with angles and what not. Its a enjoyable way to kill some time.
Think its time I bought one of these, this is the recommended grinder for use w/the square-jig (which is simply an excellent invention which allows you to sharpen square-chisel chain teeth on this grinder) -if you don't know what square-chisel is well its a far faster cutting and more durable tooth shape than the round-chisel or semi-chisel chains, but its a pain to do it by hand and a simington square grinder is $1400- but I also have interest in doing different angles using the regular round-ground and this grinder has it.. for the many thousands of $ in saws and splitters and assorted cutting tools/gear its about time I upgraded from a $20 harbor freight plastic pos and went to Oregon. Shame though that this model is now made in China
Best video on this I have watched- outstanding buddy!
Great video , I just ordered one.
Thanks
This is the best explanation of the "tilt" angle that is out there. Better than Oregon's own site. Excellent visuals on how to set all the angles. Excellent demo on grinding down the rakers, including that you didn't do it at 90, more like an 80 degree so that it slides through while still maintaining the proper gap.
Thank you! Glad you liked it! It’s been an amazing machine, far and away better than the little rural king special I was using before, though of course I now have all kinds of friends and family wanting chains sharpened haha
I agree with Glen. Great job! I have one of these and two love it much better than the 28 dollar Harbor Freight sharpener I also have. Just knocked out 4 chains this past weekend.
On a side note if you really want to speed up the cutting get a Husqvarna😜 Just kidding of course but I do love my Husqvarna XP saws. Stihl makes a hell of a saw as well.
Looking at getting the 520 version of this sharpener. This was very helpful. Laughed at the ending too... My cat was literally bothering me here the whole time watching so - I feel your pain. :) Thanks for doing this video.
Thank you!
Ive been thinking about getting one of these nicer chain grinders having only ever had ahold of the cheap harbor freight ones before and i have to say the only thing i dont like out of it is the idea of using the grinder to set the rakers. I see how the full adjustability of the angles and different grinding rock specifically for the rakers would very much allow one to use it to do so but i just feel like there would be enough of a margin of error allowed in doing so instead of using a flat file and gauge to do it by hand. That allows you to set each individual raker to the spec of its tooth. I feel like the grinder would allow for either taking too much off or not enough where you end up judging the rakers by eye and gauge after trimming it down. Thats just me, i know a lot of others probably dont see an issue with it but ive mainly hand filed what time ive used saws to begin with so im sure one could understand my perspective.
Man that was a Great Video right there Brother!!!!!!! Watched the whole thing! Been using a file all my life like an idiot. 😄
Thank you!! It’s been really nice to refresh the chains after a few filings in the field, and the machine is pretty quick and easy to use once you know how to set it up!
I just now saw this video, and while I know one cut before and one cut after sharpening isn't exactly robust science, I was still surprised the difference in cutting time was only 6 seconds (28 vs. 34 seconds). I was expecting it to be cut perhaps by half, so it was a bit of a letdown to see a smaller difference. Since you've had this chain sharpener for two years and presumably are still using it, have you found the cutting times to be more drastically reduced overall than the one in the video?
good vid tnx taught me a lot as im a complete novice at this thumbs up and subed
Glad it helped, Thank you!
Great video. I'm on the lookout for a chain sharpener so this was helpful.
I think the same. Will it make a difference in price with other cheaper ones?
@@linogz1331 one advantage with this sharpener over cheaper ones is that you can angle the chain sideways.
Some chains have the top of the cutters angeled down sideways, 10 degrees i think.
With this Oregon sharpener it's easy to compensate for that.
He’s right, most consumer chains get a 10 degree tilt. The Stihl quick file is awesome for in the field sharpening between bench grinder sharpening too! It hits the teeth and rakers together at the same time.
Good morning, great video. When you ground the rakers, did you set the cutting head at 0? The manual says to dress the wheel? But the way you did it makes sense to me. Thanks Jason
Yes I put the head back to 0 to keep them flat. The grinder came with three wheels, with one being just a flat square edged wheel which I use for the rakers. I haven’t dressed any wheels yet, but I believe if you want you can keep the head at an angle and dress the square wheel to be flat at that angle, if that makes sense?
Awesome video
Thank you!
Good job man
Thank you!
After sharpening several time I tend to loose the gullet. I set the saw per instructions and they cut well though tend to dull fairly fast. Any ideas?
You’re taking the depth gauges/rakers down every few sharpens too? Some advice I got early on was to use one size smaller file on a new chain, then move up to the one it calls for once it’s about half tooth. This helps to keep the gullet properly shaped and the teeth properly sharpened. I assume you’re sharpening with a file?
If you’re dulling that quickly I would have to assume it’s something other than the sharpening, like the type of wood you’re cutting, if it has ice or dirt on it, if you’re getting into the dirt at all, etc.
Anyone know the difference between the 140 and the 520 model sharpeners looks like roughly a $200 difference
I believe the more expensive one has more steel and magnesium body construction and parts. The one I have has a few plastic bits on it, and some metal that could be a bit thicker and heavier duty if it were meant more toward commercial use like the costlier version.
@@HoosierHomesteaders thanks for the info and reply!
Roughly 1400 more RPM.
Someone gets in camera well fliming
Far better and quicker by hand using correct diameter file
the "stop" that the backside of the tooth is pushed against, has anyone else found it's in the path of the grinding stone once the tooth has used about 50% of its life/width? i can get my chains sharpened with this unit but they never seem to be as sharp (nor stay sharpened) as when they 1st come out of the box. the other struggle is only taking off a tiny bit of material with each sharpening. i've tried turning the depth knob only around 1/8 of the way around but doesn't seem to give consistent results.
I haven’t noticed the backstop being in the way with even 25% tooth remaining honestly, are your angles set to the recommendation from the manual??
If by depth knob your talking about the one that controls how far the head comes down, I set it a little higher than needed because there’s a little flex in it if you pull it down harder. That way I can pull a little harder but get better consistency with how deep I actually go with it, because it only seems to flex to a certain point.
@@HoosierHomesteaders i was actually referring to the knob that controls the position of the backstop. my goal was to barely turn it from the last position used so that each time i barely take any metal off. watching a bunch of videos today, it appears most are going thru a few steps with each sharpening to try to find the optimal position of the backstop.
Yeah. It changes from one side to the other, and even from one tooth to the next depending on your hand sharpening. I try to find a spot that takes the least amount off as possible while still getting the majority of the teeth, as I know it’s best to have them all the same. I’d rather take a little less off though than end up grinding each down to the length of the shortest one or two.
The back stop your talking about adjust from side to side according to which side of the chain your using . the difference in the the lengths of the tooth come about mostly from improper hand filing and or misuse of the deemed type tools it also come about because of running the teeth through fence wire nails and dirt and yes some of it comes from inaccurate use it the grinder . what you actually have is if you hit a rock a nail or keep trying to cut with a dull chain and keep trying to saw after hitting objects you cause yet further damage to the chain . That's why you find people at a loss as to how to use grinder in a lot of cases and also why you chins with the teeth shorter on one side than the other . also some people think after you set the angles and grind one side of the chain after doing one side all you have to do is flip the chain around and you are preset to do the otherwise which is hardly ever the case you have to set both sides . so the answer to the problem has multiple issues .
How ?uch