Amazing explanation. Good rythm, precise, everything covered. English is a second language for me. You have a good voice, clear prononciation. I think I din’t miss a word. Thank you for posting. You have a new subscriber!
Thank God I found your video. Makes sense now. Now I just need to figure how to measure the chain and figure out the type I have to get my angles right. Rookie here
Great video! You explained the question I had about right and left 10 degree adjustment. Thanks for taking the time to make this video and explain everything. I get mine in 2 days.
Mate that was the best vid I've seen describing how to use the grinder. I've been thinking of getting one but had a few questions..that you just answered. Thanks
On the Chain pusher adjustment screw, don't loosen the Locking nut. The Locking nut should have a plastic or flexible rubber washer under it. Once you set a slight tension on the bottom lock nut, you only have to move the top bolt nut with your fingers every time, much much easier and faster adjustments.
@@jacobfurnish7450 , yes you can, but it is almost as easy just to do by hand. The time / effort taken to change the grinding wheel & head angle. The other option is have a second machine set up for rakers only. Could get by with a cheaper model of grinder.
@@trwilkinson4623 I work with an arborist crew. Lots of chains. Ill do all the teeth first and then all the rakers second so I dont have to flip back and forth.
@@jacobfurnish7450, whatever works for you. This is a great tool for consistency. If a lot of work to do, a CBT replacement disc could be a wise investment. A lot less need for maintenance / dressing of grind wheel. Enjoy your work & stay safe.
I've used Oregon sharpeners for years only had one grinder break down . The spring broke ordered a new one. I sharpened thousands of chains with it. I just ordered a brand new grinder keep your spring greased and it will last forever
Mu first attempt at chain sharpening; thanks for the sensible explanations to how and why things work. a few times the video was a bit shaky/hard to view; maybe a cheap tripod-like device might help.
Just a little tip - Oregon Sharpeners are just rebranded Tecomec sharpeners. Just bought a few Tecomec sharpeners from Amazon and they are exactly the same as the Oregon ones.
I've heard somewhere that using a grinder to sharpen your chain heats up the metal and can make it to hard to sharpen with a hand file later. Is this true or false? I use calipers to find the shortest tooth on the chain and mark it with a sharpie. That way you grind everything down to the same length and get a straighter cut.
I don't hand sharpen a lot and instead carry a spare sharpened chain with me into the woods. I like your idea for the calipers though. Makes sense to me.
If a lot of material has to be removed, a number of light touches helps avoid altering the temper Certain brands of chain, years ago were more susceptible to this change. Or made certain factory, steel blend.
I thought right hand teeth you push the 10 degree knob and left cutters you pull towards you. "Right away" is the phrase Oregon says to help remember. I could be wrong.
You are absolutely correct. The demonstration in this video is incorrect. I spent hours watching videos on this and most don't make it clear, or say they set the down angle at 0, I suspect to avoid the issue. The term "right away applies to the right (as opposed to left) teeth, not the 30 degree top angle. So when the 30 degree is set for the right teeth,(swung 30 degrees to the left) push the knob away from you, hence the "right away". As usual, I later found the total explanation in the manual that if I had read it and understood from the beginning would have saved a lot of time. Every case of how to set down angle is covered, i.e. left teeth 0 down angle, left teeth 10 degree down, right teeth 0 down angle, and right teeth 10 degree down. angle.
I really wish people would post videos that show it getting set up coming out of the box. How the heck is the motor supposed to be secured to the base?
the "stop" that the backside of the tooth is pushed against, has anyone else found it's in the path of the grinding stone once the tooth has used about 50% of its life/width? i can get my chains sharpened with this unit but they never seem to be as sharp (nor stay sharpened) as when they 1st come out of the box. the other struggle is only taking off a tiny bit of material with each sharpening. i've tried turning the depth knob only around 1/8 of the way around but doesn't seem to give consistent results.
If I understand it correctly for a LEFT cutter the 10 degree tilt would be done by pushing the knob away from one's self. If correct my slogan is "Left Out". Out being away from one's self. Opposite for the right hand cutters. Is this correct?
@TomHerd, I went to the Oregon "Original Instruction Manual Bench Chain Grinder Model 410-120" "For Right-Hand Cutters with a Down Angle" = Vice Rotation Angle LEFT of Zero, Down Angle Knob Pushed Back from Level ( front of chain vice jaws carrier tipped Lower ) "For Left-Hand Cutters with a Down Angle" = Vice Rotation Angle Right of Zero, Down Angle Knob Pulled Forward from Level ( front of chain vice jaws carrier tipped Higher ) A google search of the Manual "Original Instruction Manual Bench Chain Grinder Model 410-120" The Manual has excellent diagrams that will make the above descriptions clearer !!! Happy sharpening ... LEFT IN as I see it and vice versa RIGHT OUT by your terminology above.
@@sawingwithsandy Notice the black stripe on the edge of your wheel? That is metal that has embedded into the stone. Having that stripe creates a cutting edge that is more "gummy" and creates a lot of extra heat and a less sharp cutting edge. There was a dressing stone and a red plastic guide/template to recreate the original round shape edge. You should strongly consider using the dressing stone (or acquiring one) and dressing your wheel. It will cut MUCH cleaner I promise .
As others have already said there is a stone to take the square edge off the grinding wheel and I also have a gauge to set the rounded edge correctly. You'll find this makes a difference in the grinding and cutting edge of the chain. Thanks for the nice clear video and explanations.
Instructions!!???? Really? I had my grinder for a couple of years and I winged it and had crappy chains ever since. 😂😂😂. I looked at the instructions last week and found out my angle was wrong, now I watched your video and I didn’t have the 10 degree set either. Great vids. I learn quicker on TH-cam then reading. Thanks
You left out setting the grinder stop so you pull the handle down and grind every tooth grinds the same. The gullet is touched but not the tie strap. Setting that stop knob was left out of the video.
the oregon manual and their instruction video shows the down angle setting opposite of your video. (they say to push the knob away from you when cutting the right hand cutters and the vise is angled to the left). i've been using the same process as you have for a while. so, i have to wonder... which one is correct?
Thanks for pointing that out. I feel like my chains have been cutting well the way I’ve been cutting but I better go back and have a look. Appreciate the heads up
Gary Damp thanks for doing that. If that’s the case I’ll just keep doing the way I have been. But I may try the other way as well just to try bit out. Thanks for watching. Happy cutting
I like this review - but you never actually show the product in use. You really should start the video with that briefly and then do your product walkthrough. Thanks for all the time you put into this video.
Shouldn't you be leaving the stopped exactly the same and just turning the grinder to the opposite angle that way the teeth on both sides are identical by readjusting when you swept from Left hand to right hand teeth you are changing the depth
Nope. The cutter does not align dead center, and doing so will create two different cutter lengths. The working surface is not at the exact bottom edge of the stone and the cutter face is also not at the center of rotation.
I bought this sharpener and the book is completely different to yours, it does not have the chart with the pictures of the different chains, instead it has a completely useless chart that just has a series of letters and no graphics for the chain types, none of these letters relate to any letters of my chains I am completely lost how to use it now
I'm sorry to hear that. I wonder if there will be an electronic copy of the book online that is maybe of an older version like mine? Otherwise Oregon may be able to help you with some different info if ou were to email them. Not sure about that as I've not spoken to them before but may be worth a try. Hope it works out for you.
I don't even speak Canadian, but I understood this video well! Very informative!
Speak Canadian haha
@@sawingwithsandy Eh!
Amazing explanation. Good rythm, precise, everything covered. English is a second language for me. You have a good voice, clear prononciation. I think I din’t miss a word. Thank you for posting. You have a new subscriber!
Bernard Chartier thanks Bernard. I’m glad I could help. Welcome to the channel
Thank God I found your video. Makes sense now. Now I just need to figure how to measure the chain and figure out the type I have to get my angles right. Rookie here
Great video! You explained the question I had about right and left 10 degree adjustment. Thanks for taking the time to make this video and explain everything. I get mine in 2 days.
Glad I could help
Mate that was the best vid I've seen describing how to use the grinder. I've been thinking of getting one but had a few questions..that you just answered. Thanks
Thanks Glenn!
On the Chain pusher adjustment screw, don't loosen the Locking nut. The Locking nut should have a plastic or flexible rubber washer under it. Once you set a slight tension on the bottom lock nut, you only have to move the top bolt nut with your fingers every time, much much easier and faster adjustments.
Great video, a lot to learn from it, thanks so much for sharing it with us, us the ones who are
learning how to properly use this grinders.
Horacio Castillo no problem. Glad it was helpful
@@sawingwithsandy Can you sharpen the rakers with this thing or no?
@@jacobfurnish7450 , yes you can, but it is almost as easy just to do by hand. The time / effort taken to change the grinding wheel & head angle. The other option is have a second machine set up for rakers only. Could get by with a cheaper model of grinder.
@@trwilkinson4623 I work with an arborist crew. Lots of chains. Ill do all the teeth first and then all the rakers second so I dont have to flip back and forth.
@@jacobfurnish7450, whatever works for you. This is a great tool for consistency. If a lot of work to do, a CBT replacement disc could be a wise investment. A lot less need for maintenance / dressing of grind wheel. Enjoy your work & stay safe.
I've used Oregon sharpeners for years only had one grinder break down . The spring broke ordered a new one. I sharpened thousands of chains with it. I just ordered a brand new grinder keep your spring greased and it will last forever
Mu first attempt at chain sharpening; thanks for the sensible explanations to how and why things work. a few times the video was a bit shaky/hard to view; maybe a cheap tripod-like device might help.
Terrific. Answered all my questions. Thanks for taking the time to post!
Glad to hear that. Thanks for watching
Nice job. I'm sure this model would do all I would need as a homeowner who burns wood for heat. Sending chains out gets expensive.
Yeah I think around here it’s about 15cdn to get a chain sharpened . Does add up quickly
is there a trick mounting the wheel? holding the shaft still should there be a locking tab?
Just a little tip - Oregon Sharpeners are just rebranded Tecomec sharpeners. Just bought a few Tecomec sharpeners from Amazon and they are exactly the same as the Oregon ones.
Thanks for sharing that James!
Uh, where is part 2 ?
I've heard somewhere that using a grinder to sharpen your chain heats up the metal and can make it to hard to sharpen with a hand file later. Is this true or false? I use calipers to find the shortest tooth on the chain and mark it with a sharpie. That way you grind everything down to the same length and get a straighter cut.
I don't hand sharpen a lot and instead carry a spare sharpened chain with me into the woods. I like your idea for the calipers though. Makes sense to me.
If a lot of material has to be removed, a number of light touches helps avoid altering the temper Certain brands of chain, years ago were more susceptible to this change. Or made certain factory, steel blend.
I thought right hand teeth you push the 10 degree knob and left cutters you pull towards you. "Right away" is the phrase Oregon says to help remember. I could be wrong.
I am so confused on that very issue so which is correct ?
You are absolutely correct. The demonstration in this video is incorrect. I spent hours watching videos on this and most don't make it clear, or say they set the down angle at 0, I suspect to avoid the issue. The term "right away applies to the right (as opposed to left) teeth, not the 30 degree top angle. So when the 30 degree is set for the right teeth,(swung 30 degrees to the left) push the knob away from you, hence the "right away". As usual, I later found the total explanation in the manual that if I had read it and understood from the beginning would have saved a lot of time. Every case of how to set down angle is covered, i.e. left teeth 0 down angle, left teeth 10 degree down, right teeth 0 down angle, and right teeth 10 degree down. angle.
great job you explain extremely well of all the youtubes
Thanks Robert I appreciate that
I really wish people would post videos that show it getting set up coming out of the box.
How the heck is the motor supposed to be secured to the base?
😁 Thank you for doing this. it really helps out newbies like me!
the "stop" that the backside of the tooth is pushed against, has anyone else found it's in the path of the grinding stone once the tooth has used about 50% of its life/width? i can get my chains sharpened with this unit but they never seem to be as sharp (nor stay sharpened) as when they 1st come out of the box. the other struggle is only taking off a tiny bit of material with each sharpening. i've tried turning the depth knob only around 1/8 of the way around but doesn't seem to give consistent results.
The stop is adjustable as well so you not filling it take notice and adjust accordingly
Nicely done!
Thanks Keith
If I understand it correctly for a LEFT cutter the 10 degree tilt would be done by pushing the knob away from one's self. If correct my slogan is "Left Out". Out being away from one's self. Opposite for the right hand cutters.
Is this correct?
@TomHerd, I went to the Oregon "Original Instruction Manual Bench Chain Grinder Model 410-120" "For Right-Hand Cutters with a Down Angle" = Vice Rotation Angle LEFT of Zero, Down Angle Knob Pushed Back from Level ( front of chain vice jaws carrier tipped Lower )
"For Left-Hand Cutters with a Down Angle" = Vice Rotation Angle Right of Zero, Down Angle Knob Pulled Forward from Level ( front of chain vice jaws carrier tipped Higher )
A google search of the Manual "Original Instruction Manual Bench Chain Grinder Model 410-120" The Manual has excellent diagrams that will make the above descriptions clearer !!! Happy sharpening ... LEFT IN as I see it and vice versa RIGHT OUT by your terminology above.
@@bribri61 Had cataract surgery, but when I can see better I will check out what you sent. Thanks it looks very helpful.
Is there any initial dressing of the stone wheel that needs to be done when it is new and square?
Thanks for watching. The stone came without square edges and seemed to have a good profile already so I haven’t had to do any dressing to it
@@sawingwithsandy Notice the black stripe on the edge of your wheel? That is metal that has embedded into the stone. Having that stripe creates a cutting edge that is more "gummy" and creates a lot of extra heat and a less sharp cutting edge. There was a dressing stone and a red plastic guide/template to recreate the original round shape edge. You should strongly consider using the dressing stone (or acquiring one) and dressing your wheel. It will cut MUCH cleaner I promise .
As others have already said there is a stone to take the square edge off the grinding wheel and I also have a gauge to set the rounded edge correctly. You'll find this makes a difference in the grinding and cutting edge of the chain. Thanks for the nice clear video and explanations.
Just setting up for this . Thanks for the info
Glad I could help Robin
Instructions!!???? Really? I had my grinder for a couple of years and I winged it and had crappy chains ever since. 😂😂😂. I looked at the instructions last week and found out my angle was wrong, now I watched your video and I didn’t have the 10 degree set either.
Great vids. I learn quicker on TH-cam then reading. Thanks
You left out setting the grinder stop so you pull the handle down and grind every tooth grinds the same. The gullet is touched but not the tie strap. Setting that stop knob was left out of the video.
Im also trying to umderstand gow to set the depth. Other than that this is a great vid. Thanks
Thanks Douglas!
Thank you the video what exactly what I was looking for
Is there a depth stop so you're not cutting into the links?
Yes there is
@@sawingwithsandy I just bought this model. How do you shape the cutting wheel without grinding your knuckles off? Haha
the oregon manual and their instruction video shows the down angle setting opposite of your video. (they say to push the knob away from you when cutting the right hand cutters and the vise is angled to the left). i've been using the same process as you have for a while. so, i have to wonder... which one is correct?
Thanks for pointing that out. I feel like my chains have been cutting well the way I’ve been cutting but I better go back and have a look. Appreciate the heads up
@@sawingwithsandy I just did a test both ways. I cannot tell the difference.
Gary Damp thanks for doing that. If that’s the case I’ll just keep doing the way I have been. But I may try the other way as well just to try bit out. Thanks for watching. Happy cutting
@@garydamp6572 The book clearly states to do the down angle opposite of Sandy's vid. I will stick with the book and thanks for pointing that out.
Oregon uses the mnemonic “right away”.
Exactly what I needed :-)
Can you just flip around chain, not change grinder orientation to sharpen other chain side?
Try it once and you'll quickly see why.
Full chisel 25. Semi chisel 30
I like this review - but you never actually show the product in use. You really should start the video with that briefly and then do your product walkthrough.
Thanks for all the time you put into this video.
Thanks for watching Nathan. Check out my other sharpening videos to see it in action
🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍
Shouldn't you be leaving the stopped exactly the same and just turning the grinder to the opposite angle that way the teeth on both sides are identical by readjusting when you swept from Left hand to right hand teeth you are changing the depth
I'll have to double check just to be certain.
Nope. The cutter does not align dead center, and doing so will create two different cutter lengths. The working surface is not at the exact bottom edge of the stone and the cutter face is also not at the center of rotation.
I bought this sharpener and the book is completely different to yours, it does not have the chart with the pictures of the different chains, instead it has a completely useless chart that just has a series of letters and no graphics for the chain types, none of these letters relate to any letters of my chains I am completely lost how to use it now
I'm sorry to hear that. I wonder if there will be an electronic copy of the book online that is maybe of an older version like mine? Otherwise Oregon may be able to help you with some different info if ou were to email them. Not sure about that as I've not spoken to them before but may be worth a try. Hope it works out for you.
Need a camera person