Add a nylon strip along the full inner face appropriate thickness, smooth runner and would reduce the movement in pitch and yaw. A replaceable nylon collar on both sides of the flat 6mm plate would run inside the gap.
There are many variations of the rollers. There are really good ones. It all depends how much you want to spend. The other option is to switch the bearings to exact size and adding nylon spacers on the sides. Once again added cost.
That's interesting. These are the most expensive ones from Unistrut with the highest load ratings - can you link me to some from another manufacturer? I am not interested in adding sliding elements as this is a relatively high duty cycle application, so they will wear. Also it's a lot of work!
Yes, i think there are some ways it could be improved. John, below, suggested some PTFE blocks to take up the sideways slop. By the time you add some workarounds, though, I think it's worth just designing a better system. If funds permit, of course, it's probably better to just buy an off-the-shelf linear guideway system. The next step up in performance and price would probably be a "track roller" system, with ball-bearing race carriages running in rolled steel or extruded aluminium track. There are several manufacturers of this stuff - e.g. Thomas Regout FlexFit. For short distances, unsupported round ground linear shafting with recirculating ball bearing bushes can also be pretty cheap.
I need to make a adjustable bridge for Buckets to travel under. The buckets are about 100 pounds when full and traveling down conveyor. I need to be able to adjust the bridge for different size buckets. Will this slider be best choice ?
Yes, I reckon these would be a good choice, depending on speed. These are the trolleys with the highest available load rating - 2.7kN (270kg) at 0.15m/s or 1.3kN (130kg) at 0.9m/s. 100lb is about 50kg, so you're well within these (asssuming one bucket per trolley), your load is a lot less than these ratings, so they can probably go a bit quicker. Also, since it's Unistrut, it will be very easy to build an adjustable structure. You can get various hinges and adjustable angle plates that will help with the job.
Agreed - these work well for hanging doors. I wanted to know whether they would work in a more demanding, vertical, application, which requires some knowledge of the tolerance / slop in the vertical axes. The manufacturers do not specify this information - hence I had to buy, measure, and return the parts. I made this video as a record; perhaps the information might help someone else.
you could probably machine some steel bars/caps to fit through the roll pins to reduce the play and help keep the trolley assembly centered, but this will of course result in wear and inevitable failure of the strut itself. teflon/nylon end caps would provide similar surface friction characteristics as steel and would avoid premature failure of the strut but would be a wear item that required regular inspection and frequent replacement. i wouldn't operate a theme park this way, but for some infrequent backyard fun or utilitarian usage you could make u-strut work.
Wrong stuff for your application. Many ways to make adjustments if you use imagination/creativity. For high performance and precision best to chk 80/20 or TSC
Second. Plus the mumbling as well as the rambling did not work for me. I wear hearing aids and this was excessively difficult. The calipers got my hopes up but...
That’s the wrong channel for what you are trying to do. You need the channel for a sliding barn door. Your using channel to hang different appliances from a ceiling
Same stuff, mate, this is one of the channel trolleys for P1000 and friends Unistrut channel (and clones from other manufacturers). P1000 is in the video. Acceptable slop for hanging a barn door, etc., but a bit too much for what I wanted to do. Documenting here because it's not documented elsewhere (Unistrut's datasheet is more like a sketch on the back of a beermat).
Add a nylon strip along the full inner face appropriate thickness, smooth runner and would reduce the movement in pitch and yaw.
A replaceable nylon collar on both sides of the flat 6mm plate would run inside the gap.
There are many variations of the rollers. There are really good ones. It all depends how much you want to spend. The other option is to switch the bearings to exact size and adding nylon spacers on the sides. Once again added cost.
Crazy glue some tephlon pads to the side of it .... to make it “ less stothie “..... Blimey
That's interesting. These are the most expensive ones from Unistrut with the highest load ratings - can you link me to some from another manufacturer? I am not interested in adding sliding elements as this is a relatively high duty cycle application, so they will wear. Also it's a lot of work!
Hehe, life ain't that easy, I'm afraid. @@michaelwells7348
This guy needs a medal for waffling of the first order... any chance you could think beforehand ??
You should have seen the other takes :D
wow some brits are class A whingers. video seems fine to me, showed me everything i was looking to know. thanks Jeff!
Very helpful, thank you.
4 bearings on the outside of the rail, pinching the face of the channel opening sides, maybe?
Yes, i think there are some ways it could be improved. John, below, suggested some PTFE blocks to take up the sideways slop.
By the time you add some workarounds, though, I think it's worth just designing a better system. If funds permit, of course, it's probably better to just buy an off-the-shelf linear guideway system. The next step up in performance and price would probably be a "track roller" system, with ball-bearing race carriages running in rolled steel or extruded aluminium track. There are several manufacturers of this stuff - e.g. Thomas Regout FlexFit. For short distances, unsupported round ground linear shafting with recirculating ball bearing bushes can also be pretty cheap.
I need to make a adjustable bridge for Buckets to travel under. The buckets are about 100 pounds when full and traveling down conveyor. I need to be able to adjust the bridge for different size buckets. Will this slider be best choice ?
Yes, I reckon these would be a good choice, depending on speed. These are the trolleys with the highest available load rating - 2.7kN (270kg) at 0.15m/s or 1.3kN (130kg) at 0.9m/s. 100lb is about 50kg, so you're well within these (asssuming one bucket per trolley), your load is a lot less than these ratings, so they can probably go a bit quicker. Also, since it's Unistrut, it will be very easy to build an adjustable structure. You can get various hinges and adjustable angle plates that will help with the job.
A lot of slop would go away with a heavy door/panel hanging by two of those.
Agreed - these work well for hanging doors. I wanted to know whether they would work in a more demanding, vertical, application, which requires some knowledge of the tolerance / slop in the vertical axes. The manufacturers do not specify this information - hence I had to buy, measure, and return the parts. I made this video as a record; perhaps the information might help someone else.
Is "trunking" the word you were after?
I think I was trying to say "cable trays", but yeah, also trunking.
gual o nome e o modelo do trilho ? suporta guantos kilos ?
저 각파이프 어디서 구매해야할까요
Was considering making a backyard rollercoastet outta these… maybe gonna need to add some extra engineering…
you could probably machine some steel bars/caps to fit through the roll pins to reduce the play and help keep the trolley assembly centered, but this will of course result in wear and inevitable failure of the strut itself. teflon/nylon end caps would provide similar surface friction characteristics as steel and would avoid premature failure of the strut but would be a wear item that required regular inspection and frequent replacement. i wouldn't operate a theme park this way, but for some infrequent backyard fun or utilitarian usage you could make u-strut work.
Don't b skeert
Boring!!!!!You could have explained it in 30 second instead of 10 minutes. Thankfully for fast forward option.
Festoon
45 second video if I deleted the UHHHHHHHHHS.
naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Wrong stuff for your application. Many ways to make adjustments if you use imagination/creativity. For high performance and precision best to chk 80/20 or TSC
Ta Ta Ta Day man!
Uh uh uh uh X1000. Pure torture.
You took 9 minutes to say what could be said in 2. Thankfully you talk so slow that I could increase playback speed x2 and still understand.
hehe cheers Mike, glad you found a way to make it through :D
Man, I bet you felt better getting that off your chest, yeh?
Second. Plus the mumbling as well as the rambling did not work for me. I wear hearing aids and this was excessively difficult. The calipers got my hopes up but...
3.5 minutes in and no mention of sloppiness.
Finally, sloppy all around. Seems like the trolley is wrong size. Is there a larger One?
low effort too
That’s the wrong channel for what you are trying to do. You need the channel for a sliding barn door. Your using channel to hang different appliances from a ceiling
Same stuff, mate, this is one of the channel trolleys for P1000 and friends Unistrut channel (and clones from other manufacturers). P1000 is in the video. Acceptable slop for hanging a barn door, etc., but a bit too much for what I wanted to do. Documenting here because it's not documented elsewhere (Unistrut's datasheet is more like a sketch on the back of a beermat).