Brian, very interesting and perfectly explained and the images also perfect. Like the rest of the videos that I have seen yours. Thank you very much and greetings. 👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿
Brian - I have watched several of your videos and I find they are the best I have found on TH-cam! Nice clear explanations and how and why a tool works or does not. Thanks!
Brian -- Thank you for this series. You've helped me better understand why what I've been doing works and what I've been trying to do sometimes doesn't work. It's empowering information.
Nice instruction as always Brian, I learned to trust and adjust the fulcrum position relative to the point of contact...... both for the bevel and tool rest.... thanks - I think the detail you provide in these lessons is tops on the Tube. Keep them coming, I do appreciate your time and effort... Doug
Another great video for both novice turners prone to catches and experienced turners who can expand their arsenal of cuts. Your camera and editing work is superb. As a novice video maker I would be interested in a video on your camera setup and more.
Brian, you explanations are very good, that's exactly what I was trying to understand: how the tool is cutting the wood. Thanks for sharing! I have a question about a cutting angle however. When things happening in 3d it's not clear what exact angle you are referring to. That would be easy with hand planes because there are two planes (iron and board) usually involved, but with turning it's a bit tricky. The wood is round but we can imagine tangent plane (only if it's cylinder or cone though). But cutting edge is not straight as well. Things get even more tricky when you making beds and coves. Could you please explain that part about cutting angle? You probably already have it explained in some video. Link to the video / drawing / article would be helpful then.
Love your videos, I need help cutting bowl walls of very old dry myrtle wood. Once I get about 3/8 inch thick II get vibration, unstable, and tool chatter. What do I need to do? Tried scraping, kboom, lost entire bowl.
I notice the tip of your cutter is quite far above the centreline. Is that to maintain bevel contact? I'm learning and tend to always cut in line with the centreline - probably because I use a metal lathe where the cutters are always on dead centre. I also feel a bit vunerable with more tool overhanging the tool rest.
Maintaining bevel contact is part of it. Cutting on the wing into the (flat) end of work (end grain in spindle work, or side grain in face work) requires dropping the handle quite a bit, and this brings the cutting edge further above center. Don't be too concerned about how high a cut is above center, for example, a Skew is generally used, and is much easier to use above center, and a (French) Bedan is used closer to the top of the work than the center. Having more tool over the tool rest can be an issue, but with the handle dropped low, there is little leverage on the tool, and a catch will tend to push to the tool down and disengage from the wood.
Brian, very interesting and perfectly explained and the images also perfect. Like the rest of the videos that I have seen yours. Thank you very much and greetings. 👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿
Brian - I have watched several of your videos and I find they are the best I have found on TH-cam! Nice clear explanations and how and why a tool works or does not. Thanks!
Timelessly good! Thanks for this great video!
Brian -- Thank you for this series. You've helped me better understand why what I've been doing works and what I've been trying to do sometimes doesn't work. It's empowering information.
Nice instruction as always Brian, I learned to trust and adjust the fulcrum position relative to the point of contact...... both for the bevel and tool rest.... thanks - I think the detail you provide in these lessons is tops on the Tube. Keep them coming, I do appreciate your time and effort... Doug
EXPLANATION VERY GOOD, VERY IMPROVED MY WORK. CONGRATULATIONS, FROM BRAZIL.
Another great video for both novice turners prone to catches and experienced turners who can expand their arsenal of cuts. Your camera and editing work is superb. As a novice video maker I would be interested in a video on your camera setup and more.
Thanks Brian, this has explained (perhaps eliminated) an entire category of catches for me. Cheers, Gord
A masterpiece of teaching and explanation. Thanks.
great explanations! very usefull and detailed informations! Thank you very much!
Thank you wonderfully explained. We ask for the next videos about turning. cool
Greetings from Poland
I apologize for any text errors Google Translate
The Best. Thank you!
Brian, you explanations are very good, that's exactly what I was trying to understand: how the tool is cutting the wood. Thanks for sharing!
I have a question about a cutting angle however. When things happening in 3d it's not clear what exact angle you are referring to. That would be easy with hand planes because there are two planes (iron and board) usually involved, but with turning it's a bit tricky. The wood is round but we can imagine tangent plane (only if it's cylinder or cone though). But cutting edge is not straight as well. Things get even more tricky when you making beds and coves.
Could you please explain that part about cutting angle? You probably already have it explained in some video. Link to the video / drawing / article would be helpful then.
Love your videos, I need help cutting bowl walls of very old dry myrtle wood. Once I get about 3/8 inch thick II get vibration, unstable, and tool chatter. What do I need to do? Tried scraping, kboom, lost entire bowl.
I notice the tip of your cutter is quite far above the centreline. Is that to maintain bevel contact? I'm learning and tend to always cut in line with the centreline - probably because I use a metal lathe where the cutters are always on dead centre. I also feel a bit vunerable with more tool overhanging the tool rest.
Maintaining bevel contact is part of it. Cutting on the wing into the (flat) end of work (end grain in spindle work, or side grain in face work) requires dropping the handle quite a bit, and this brings the cutting edge further above center. Don't be too concerned about how high a cut is above center, for example, a Skew is generally used, and is much easier to use above center, and a (French) Bedan is used closer to the top of the work than the center. Having more tool over the tool rest can be an issue, but with the handle dropped low, there is little leverage on the tool, and a catch will tend to push to the tool down and disengage from the wood.
A-cross-T
Wring the gouge. Don't and wont use such a difficult tool.