you did well there Jon like you say its seen little use, I need to give mine a strip down and good clean at some point but its working well as is, and like yours it has almost no play anywhere. The 3 phase motor on mine was too old to run on an inverter so I put a single phase on to get it up and running, would really like one like yours with more sideways travel on the bed and when one pops up will no doubt replace the Herbert. Cheers.
Hi Loz, thanks for the comment. Yeah, totally couldn't afford it but just had an inkling it was a good-un and I would have forever kicked myself if I didn't go for it. Just got to sort these stupid electrics out (things currently going from bad to worse based on me making stupid assumptions)! Keep a look out mate, there seems to be quite a few of these floating around, and mine is currently in bits now so you will have a rebuild video to watch should you need one (changing all the bearings out). Cheers, Jon
I've a slightly later model Eagle that I bought as a kit of parts and required a serious amount of work to get it up and running. I went the vfd route, not having 3 phase or a converter, and had to reconfigure the motor from Y to delta so it would run on a 220V vfd. There's plenty of space in the base to hide the vfd away and it keeps the electrics fully enclosed.
Hi Robert, thanks for the comment and support of the channel. As I mentioned in the video, I didn't really know anything about these but the more work I am doing (currently in bits as I am going to change the bearings out while I am at it), the more I am realising what a good machine they are. Hope you are enjoying yours. Cheers, Jon
Jon, I am pleased to see it is a surface grinder and thank you for the top tips on purchasing one blind... Looking forward to seeing it in action... Take care. Paul,,
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment. Think I have understood the issue now after a bit more digging so hopefully we will be up and running soon. I decided to change all the bearings out while I was at it (couldn't help myself)! Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop I am extremely jealous of your purchase... pleased to hear you've understood the issue,... expect a Knackler's Newsflash, milling machine purchased tonight...
G'day Jon and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 I came across your channel and found it really interesting and I have subscribed and look forward to watching your videos, I am at the moment looking back over the videos that you have done thanks mate take care John
Hi John, thanks for the comment and support of the channel, much appreciated. I find it mind blowing that my humble little channel has made it that far round the world! As you will see, I am not long started at this really so still busy getting equipped and re-learning all the good stuff I did day in and day out 25 odd years ago. I hope you will find it interesting and you are very welcome here. Cheers, Jon
What ho Jon, If I'd known you wanted a surface grinder i could have sold you mine, its just sitting in my front garden and only used once or twice a year. Same make as yours but a different model. Mine doesn't like starting either, static converter, but once warmed up it starts and stops fine. I over rate the supply and then back it off once settled. Could be early Elizabethan grease in the head going gummy. If i planned to use it more often i would strip and use modern synthetic grease. I'm no sparky but those neutrals might be for a work light., i seem to recall you get 240 volts using one of them to a live. You might find it surprising there is no good way to lube the table ways and you can't balance the wheel, both of which seem a bit daft. You might want to give thought to mount a fixture for a Dial gauge or a single axis dro so you can work more easily in metric or you want to work to tenths. I only use mine to grind valve shims for a friend and they like a 10 micron or less tolerance and an Imp machine makes life tricky for my poor old befuddled grey matter. You can convert your static to a rotary by simply putting a larger 3 phase motor into the circuit, try to find one with good bearings but knackered shaft, which you would want to cut off anyway. Just to make you really jealous and to show how my luck used to run mine cost, no, on second thoughts it might seem like im bragging.😉 I did pick up a Harig grindall fixture for 75 quid and that really is bragging. 😂 Looking forward to see you using it ATB c
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment. I take it you are pulling my chain......... working to 10 microns on a machine sat out in your garden??? And I was concerned with the damp issue in my garage lol. I am fairly units ambidextrous (based on when I was born and the 50/50 split of both systems in my career, but may still chuck a DRO scale on there at some point. Yes, I noticed there is no wheel balance facility, however, I think the clam shell's are thick enough to take a PCD of M3 or M4 holes for grub screws, but you would need to rely on the moulded plastic wheel bore which is a bit crappy for balancing. From what I have deduced, it looks like you need to remove the table to get oil onto the ways (I think it has grooves in it but not seen them yet) - may eventually add an oiler unit to make this more simple. I wouldn't know where to start converting my static to a rotary, I know my limits, electrics and electronics is a black box technology that defies all reasonable logic, I have tried hard several times in my life at college to understand it and failed miserably, and owing to the fact it will kill me if I get it wrong, I only go within my comfort zone. VFD is in the post, I think the issue is too much juice, the motor is a 1.0 HP (750 W) and my converter is minimum of 1kW. If you don't see any more videos from me, you will know what has happened! Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop No chain pulling, far too energetic for me, 10 microns are the standard division on a hundredths mm micrometer and only problem is the Imp z.. Valve shims are usully less than 25mm and this is an extra problem as you dont have enough grip from the magnet and need an extra plate with holes to spread the grip. The fact that the SG is in the front garden doesn't stop an expert from working to tight tolerances, or an old fool like me eitger.😆 You could make wheel hubs for off grinder balancing if you could find wheels with a bore bigger than the 1 1/4" norm, so you could have separate hubs but then as you don't have flood coolant the finish will never be super-duper anyway. To convert a static to rotary just needs a large motor permanently connected to the converter and your machine connected as well but through its NVR switch. There are oil grooves but no reasonable way to fill them, an oil point or two would make life easier. If the finish you get has regularly spaced marks it could be the rack and pinion. A change to taut wire or toothed belt arrangement might cure it but then a quick wipe with a 1200 wet and dry will make things look good with minimal change in dimension. Re electrics, rubber soled boots and dont earth yourself and if you want have a swell funeral wait till after lockdown is finished.😉
Hi Jon nice new toy, for the extract ducting hoiw about unpainted ally or stainless steel, that would not look to ugly against the blue, and same for the hand wheels strip and polish. Happy Sunday Nige
Hi Nigel, thanks for the comment and suggestions. Think I will just go with mild steel for the tube (just because I have some and as yet have no welding capability for SS or Al). Will work something out, might go for Orange (as have a tin of it and it's my favourite colour). Handwheels are definitely getting polished. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon , your latest vid just popped up , now subscribed and bing watching to catch up with progress ..... epic!! Have the very same surface grinder , but alas mines a bit more baggy than yours , up/down /in/out tight but table travel tiered 😕 came out of a local model engineers workshop clearance ( he’s now working “ up stairs” ) had stood in a shed and the only leak was over my machine , didn’t pay a lot , now up and running on single phase interesting comment on single phase showing up in the ground surfaces !! Not found how the gib is adjusted for the table travel yet !!! Enough waffle great channel . Regards Robert Partsmade
Hi Robert, thanks for the comment and sub, and welcome to the channel. Glad I have found someone with the same model, most of the guys in the comments who have one of these have a later version. If you could see mine now, you may wonder if it would ever work again, its all in bits! Anyway, as and when I get round to adjusting the play on mine, I will film it so you will have a reference. Cheers, Jon
Hi Colin, thanks for the comment. Boiler is all done thankfully, but at a cost of £5.5k, the joys of rural living and burning oil for heating! Anyway, easy come, easy go as they say! We will have the grinder up and running soon. Cheers, Jon
Hi Nigel, thanks for the comment. It's an excellent bit of kit (or at least it was before I took it to bits!). I am sure we will get it up and running with a bit of effort. Cheers, Jon
Hi, nice purchase, as stated elsewhere, check out the coil voltage for the contactor. If 240V you could use the socket behind the machine for the control supply and just use the 3phase for the motor. Let me know if you need any more help, electrician to trade (maintenance in a factory setting) so should be able to help you out. Chances are that the coil is 240V (3 phase is just 3 lives giving 440V between them and 240V is derived from 1 phase and neutral - not sure if your phase converter has a neutral output.
Hi Pakrattuk, thanks for the comment and suggestions. I very well my need to pick your brains at some point, Lecky is just a black box technology to me, never really understood it. The coil is 415 or 240 (changed via removing a jumper wire). My converter does have a neutral output but I wouldn't have a clue what to connect it to. Anyway, following some more digging, I think I have got to the root cause (still to be proven), it is only a 1.0 horse motor (approx 750W - I think), my converters minimum output is 1kW, therefore I think its just a case of too much juice.......seems logical as it will run for a bit which suggests it's only just over........ Maybe! VFD in the post, this eliminates the starter box and the inverter. I may come to you for more help so thanks for the offer, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
Hope you sort the issues soon, great machines I have a MK2 Unfortunately mine has had a terrible paint job but its smooth and wobble free. looking forward to seeing yours running soon.
Hi Brian, thanks for the comment and support. If you could see it now you could potentially draw the conclusion it may never work again lol, it's all in bits! I am sure we will get it back together again shortly. They are certainly fantastically made machines, hope you are enjoying yours. Cheers, Jon
Landed on your feet there Jon it looks like a cracking machine. I'm sure you'll get over the unfortunate teething problems. Looking forward to some quality work off it when it's sorted 👍 Atb Carl
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment, yes, really pleased with it despite the fact its now in bits (can't help myself)! Hopefully I can remember what to do after so many years lol. Cheers, Jon
Hi John, check the coil in the starter and make sure it's a 415v coil, assuming your phase converter is 415v, also make sure the motor is connected for 415v three phase and not 240v three phase.
Hi Toby, thanks for the comment and your suggestions, much appreciated. I have done some more checks, the starter can be 415 or 240V by changing a jumper, it's currently set for 415, the motor is 415 wired too. I think I have found the issue (yet to be proven), the motor is only a 1.0 horse (750 W roughly), my inverter is 1.0 Kw minimum so too much juice (I think). VFD in the post, we'll try that route first. Cheers, Jon
my guess is that the motor is set up in 415 volt and is drawing to mush amps through the coil , setting the motor up for 3 phase 220 volt (star) should solve it
@@watahyahknow a motor at 415v will draw less amps than a motor set at 240v plus at 415v it is in Wye/star config and at 240v it would be in delta config...
Great sturdy machine,you will be running out of space soon now.I understand the basics of surface grinding but no experience at all with it.What sort of parts are normally being done with it?Used the lockdown time here to fabricate more tools,2x72 inch belt grinder,hydr log splitter etc.....no need for super high tolerances but great fun to build and gain experience
Hi Robert, thanks for the comment. Yep, pretty much full now so need to get rid of the engraving machine if I want anything else. Surface Grinders in a home shop can be used for lots of stuff (parallels, V Blocks, gauges, tool grinding, tool making, the list is endless), in industry, they are mainly used where parallelism or squareness tolerances are tighter than milling or turning can produce. Your projects sound great, glad you are making stuff, no better feeling than using a tool you made yourself. Cheers, Jon
Hello Jon, congratulations. This is a great machine, just right for a small locksmith's shop. The only thing missing is a grinding vice. But you can buy it cheaply at every corner (pull-down vise). LG Peter (google translator)
Hi Peter, thanks for the comment. Yes, I need to get a grinding vice, and quite a few other bits and pieces so I can use the grinder fully. It's a fantastic machine for its age, very happy with it. Cheers, Jon
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment. Electrickery, you are spot on, it baffles the hell out of me. Think I have understood the problem now after a bit of digging, solution in the post! Cheers, Jon
Hi Rob, thanks for the comment and feedback, I have chosen the VFD route, figured out the issue, it's only a 1 horse motor which is just under the minimum of my converter. Couldn't help myself, changing all the bearings out as well. Cheers, Jon
As I mentioned in another post, you have to get rid of that static converter. You’ve really only got two phases from the static converter. It’s using a capacitor for the fake third phase. It’s a very unbalanced situation. You’re also only getting two thirds of the power out of the motor. Depending how the contractor is wired, a static converter may not hold it in. Go for a VFD. You have to touch up the wheel while doing a job, as it gets worn with each pass across. After several passes the wheel isn’t flat.
Hi Mel, thanks for the comment. Yep, not one of my best purchases unfortunately. It has Ebay written all over it lol, it's just not nice to use at all. A future purchase may be a rotary converter (or separate VFD's, not decided yet). Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop there are electronic phase converters as well. If you don’t want to hassle with the sometimes complex set-up of a VFD, that might be a better choice. It’s simply,er, with less features, but more forgiving.
Great buy John you have a corker of a machine. I like the old school cool tommy bar hole. What you mentioned about leaving the wheel running sounds good advice to me. Obviously there must have been wheel slip disasters in the past. Tony
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment. Just catching up with comments so apologies for the late response. Yep, agreed. It's a mint machine, wasn't cheap mind! Agreed on the Tommy bar hole too, don't see that on modern stuff. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, i have recently upgraded my myford super 7 to a Harrison M300, dropped on a well priced static converter that was supposed to be man enough for my machine, it worked to a point but i have ended up buying a rotary converter, that works a treat, as it turns out some 3 phase motors just dont like static converters, vfd seems a good and much cheaper option tbh, but if you do find a pot of gold, Transwave are a good shout and very very helpfull and knowledgeable for a convertor Good luck 👍
Hi, thanks for the comment and your suggestions. Yeah, I didn't do enough reading before I got the static converter, you effectively lose about 30% overall power as the 3rd phase is not a full 415, it's some pseudo phase created by capacitors around 240v (ish). Mine is a transwave and they were helpful when I bought it, just wish I had gone for a rotary (will upgrade at some point, can't make full speed on my Harrison or even the 1700 rpm). Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon It might be good to check you motor kw size on the machine and what your phase converter minimum motor size is. You might have to fit a shunt motor in parallel to make up the difference.
Hi Skyflyer1000, thanks for the comment and suggestion. I think you have nailed it. The motor is only a 1.0 horse (approx 750W), and my inverter starts at 1kW, too much juice I think. VFD in the post, we will give this a go first. Cheers, Jon
Hi John I have exactly the same machine but when I got mine there were no bearings in the head I fitted back to back pre loaded bearings using shims as the preload until I thought it would be perfect which I must say worked fine ,but I would love to know how the original machine was as I can’t find nothing else about the spindle bearings online many thanks for uploading
Hi John, thanks for the comment and support of the channel. Keep watching, I couldn't help myself, mine is in bits now as I figured I might as well change the bearings out while I am at it. I will show in detail what came out which doesn't sound too dissimilar from what you describe. I have no reason to suspect that what was in there was not original factory fit, although the grease points don't line up with the bearings so I think they just used the same casting and swapped the oilers for greasers. I found 3 different types of grease inside, some looked and smelt really old. Cheers, Jon
School or college sounds plausible. Our school and college had some serious engineering kit that they never let anyone use, but probably would have made a great 2nd hand purchase for someone.
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment. Yep, same here, we had a half decent metalwork shop at school, bet there aren't many schools with one these days. Cheers, Jon
Well, even with the wiring headache, it's a very cool find! A surface grinder will be a great addition to your shop for sure! The color is ok, but if it were in my shop it would get painted one of the shades of Candy Apple Gray like the other machinery, lol!
Hi Everett, thanks for the comment. Yes, hopefully once rebuilt and the electrics sorted out it will be a great addition to the arsenal. It may get a face-lift at some point in the future. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, just so you know but all my machines are 3 phase, I use a 2.2kw VFDs, you can get them for around £100 from Amazon, they work great, give me a shout if you need any info
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment and suggestions. I think I have understood the issue, the motor is only 1.0 HP (750W) and my converter is a 1kW minimum so too much juice I think. I have ordered a 750W VFD, let's see how it goes. I am also changing all the bearings out just for laughs, there was more grease in there than in a chip shop! Cheers, Jon
Mine has to deep groove ball races supporting the spindle, I think yours will be the same, the grease cups feed grease to the bearings by filling them to the brim and screwing the caps down forcing grease to the bearings
Hi Crozwayne, thanks for the comment. Yep, I can see how they intended it to be. On mine though, the grease cup position was right over the outer shell of the bearing in the rear meaning no grease could flow through, very strange. Cheers, Jon
Hay Jon, I have got and use the very same surface grinder, mine did make a noise on the bearings, but they are cheep and easy to install, so now she’s as sweet as a nut, Mine has the same mag chuck too, Nice find, hope it works well for ya buddy 👍🏻😉
Hi Mark, thanks for the comment. Just catching up with comments so apologies for the late response. It's all good so far, although not really used it in anger yet. Cheers, Jon
Hi Matthew, thanks for the comment and support of the channel. I am going VFD, decision made, although I have managed to make a right balls up of that journey so far wich I will cover in the next video lol. Cheers, Jon
Hi Max, thanks for the comment, just catching up with comments so apologies for the delay responding. Same here mate, it wasn't a cheap one, don't tell my financial director lol. Cheers, Jon
@@swanvalleymachineshop Ha haaaa, lol Max. Now Herbert Capstans are the real deal, I have spent 1000's of hours in my past on No 4's No 8's and No 9's, as well as Ward 2A, 4As. Never seen a Herb No2, looking forward very much to that reveal mate. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, i saw your fantastic surface grinder, i am looking for something similar but here in Italy there 's nothing like that, could you suggest me a shop in UK, where Is possible find one? Also smaller, like Sanford, It will be not cheap to bring here...but i want to try! Thanks in any case, Cheers from Italy, Alberto
Hi Alberto, thanks for the comment. That is a difficult question, there are quite a few 2nd hand machine dealers in the UK but not sure if they ship overseas. I got mine from Tooz4you (Ebay), might be worth getting in touch with them and asking if they would ship to you. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon. I see by other comments made you seem to be sorting the issue. Have you bought a 240 to 415 inverter or 240 to 240 three phase one? If the latter you will have to swap the motor windings to delta from star. I'm sure you know that. It could be simple if the motor has an external jb with the windings brought into that. If not it can still be done by accessing the ends of the windings in the motor. I'd be happy to help.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment. I have got 240 to 240. Things have got quite complex due to my own stupidity and lack of sparky knowledge combined. I will email you. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, the link you put up for the grinder turned out to be the name shown on their eBay site but their actual registered name on eBay is 'Toolz_4_You Tool Shop'. You probably think I'm a right busybody but I just thought I'd put it on here in case anybody is trying to find it, eBay couldn't find Tools4youltd. Great find that Jon, nice one.
Hi Jon, just found your channel! Thanks for the videos and nice grinder! I have a similar eagle grinder, I think slightly later, bought a while ago, needed a little work but slowly getting there. Mine had opposing taper roller bearings, one each end of the spindle. There seems to be many variations on bearing arrangements on these. I have my motor running from a VFD - had to manually convert to delta by digging out the star point in the motor - first time I’d done that, but wasn’t too bad, and motor runs very smoothly. I would be interested to find out what diameter your main traverse handwheel is - mine is small, same size as cross feed, and seems like hard work! Keep up the good work!
Hi James, thanks for the comment, and welcome to the channel (or mad House!) Agreed, far too many variations and not much original material available to understand what was factory intent. My traverse handle is roughly 250mm dia, and it's a good work out so you really must struggle. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jon
Hi Graeme, thanks for the comment, if you could see the poor thing now, you may not be so complimentary, it's kind of all in bits! I am sure we will get it back together again and I am looking forward to taking it for a spin. Cheers, Jon
Just to satisfy your Sherlock Holmes deduction that perhaps it came from a school, why don't you email the Company you purchased it from and ask ? Cracking find there, hope it will give you many Years of Happy Grinding. Regards from Australia.
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment, I will try and find out from them, I am guessing based on this thing being about 70 years old that it has had a few owners over that time (all very caring and careful I might add). Cheers, Jon
have you checked if the motor is set up in star and not in delta that might be the problem if you run 3 phase 220 volts , i have two machines running on a vfd (both of them on their own vfd) and i needed to change both of them over to star to get them to run good allso the grinding wheel of a surface grinder is usally mounted with a hub to the machine that has a taper on the shaft for the hub to seat on , that way you can chance wheels without having to regrind them (if you have extra hubs for the machine) th-cam.com/video/b1VfQHGvFJw/w-d-xo.html a vfd would be a good idea i dont know if the vfd would play nice with the contacter though you might need to change that to an actual switch or delete it and run the the machine of the knobs on the vfd im not a profesional electrician i know just enough to keep myself from being shocked and i just mess with stuff untill they work (wish i wouldnt advise others to do )
Hi Watahyahknow, thanks for the comment and suggestions. If you keep watching the series you will see I ended up going down the VFD route, and I also ran through, to the best of my knowledge, what the original issue was. I am like you, just know enough to stay alive and that's where my knowledge runs out. In terms of the wheel mount, agreed, most grinders have hubs on a taper, this one doesn't unfortunately, the wheel locates directly onto the shaft! No way of quick change or balancing. I may end up making a new shaft for it eventually. Cheers, Jon
I’ve been eyeing an eagle for awhile for my little hobby workshop in Edinburgh. Very helpful and informative.
you did well there Jon like you say its seen little use, I need to give mine a strip down and good clean at some point but its working well as is, and like yours it has almost no play anywhere. The 3 phase motor on mine was too old to run on an inverter so I put a single phase on to get it up and running, would really like one like yours with more sideways travel on the bed and when one pops up will no doubt replace the Herbert. Cheers.
Hi Loz, thanks for the comment. Yeah, totally couldn't afford it but just had an inkling it was a good-un and I would have forever kicked myself if I didn't go for it. Just got to sort these stupid electrics out (things currently going from bad to worse based on me making stupid assumptions)! Keep a look out mate, there seems to be quite a few of these floating around, and mine is currently in bits now so you will have a rebuild video to watch should you need one (changing all the bearings out). Cheers, Jon
I've a slightly later model Eagle that I bought as a kit of parts and required a serious amount of work to get it up and running. I went the vfd route, not having 3 phase or a converter, and had to reconfigure the motor from Y to delta so it would run on a 220V vfd. There's plenty of space in the base to hide the vfd away and it keeps the electrics fully enclosed.
Hi Robert, thanks for the comment and support of the channel. As I mentioned in the video, I didn't really know anything about these but the more work I am doing (currently in bits as I am going to change the bearings out while I am at it), the more I am realising what a good machine they are. Hope you are enjoying yours. Cheers, Jon
Jon,
I am pleased to see it is a surface grinder and thank you for the top tips on purchasing one blind... Looking forward to seeing it in action...
Take care.
Paul,,
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment. Think I have understood the issue now after a bit more digging so hopefully we will be up and running soon. I decided to change all the bearings out while I was at it (couldn't help myself)! Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop I am extremely jealous of your purchase... pleased to hear you've understood the issue,... expect a Knackler's Newsflash, milling machine purchased tonight...
@@TheKnacklersWorkshop Hi Paul, thanks mate. Stoked for you, can't wait to see what you have purchased. Cheers, Jon
G'day Jon and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 I came across your channel and found it really interesting and I have subscribed and look forward to watching your videos, I am at the moment looking back over the videos that you have done thanks mate take care John
Hi John, thanks for the comment and support of the channel, much appreciated. I find it mind blowing that my humble little channel has made it that far round the world! As you will see, I am not long started at this really so still busy getting equipped and re-learning all the good stuff I did day in and day out 25 odd years ago. I hope you will find it interesting and you are very welcome here. Cheers, Jon
What ho Jon,
If I'd known you wanted a surface grinder i could have sold you mine, its just sitting in my front garden and only used once or twice a year. Same make as yours but a different model. Mine doesn't like starting either, static converter, but once warmed up it starts and stops fine. I over rate the supply and then back it off once settled. Could be early Elizabethan grease in the head going gummy. If i planned to use it more often i would strip and use modern synthetic grease.
I'm no sparky but those neutrals might be for a work light., i seem to recall you get 240 volts using one of them to a live.
You might find it surprising there is no good way to lube the table ways and you can't balance the wheel, both of which seem a bit daft.
You might want to give thought to mount a fixture for a Dial gauge or a single axis dro so you can work more easily in metric or you want to work to tenths. I only use mine to grind valve shims for a friend and they like a 10 micron or less tolerance and an Imp machine makes life tricky for my poor old befuddled grey matter.
You can convert your static to a rotary by simply putting a larger 3 phase motor into the circuit, try to find one with good bearings but knackered shaft, which you would want to cut off anyway.
Just to make you really jealous and to show how my luck used to run mine cost, no, on second thoughts it might seem like im bragging.😉 I did pick up a Harig grindall fixture for 75 quid and that really is bragging. 😂
Looking forward to see you using it
ATB
c
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment. I take it you are pulling my chain......... working to 10 microns on a machine sat out in your garden??? And I was concerned with the damp issue in my garage lol. I am fairly units ambidextrous (based on when I was born and the 50/50 split of both systems in my career, but may still chuck a DRO scale on there at some point. Yes, I noticed there is no wheel balance facility, however, I think the clam shell's are thick enough to take a PCD of M3 or M4 holes for grub screws, but you would need to rely on the moulded plastic wheel bore which is a bit crappy for balancing. From what I have deduced, it looks like you need to remove the table to get oil onto the ways (I think it has grooves in it but not seen them yet) - may eventually add an oiler unit to make this more simple. I wouldn't know where to start converting my static to a rotary, I know my limits, electrics and electronics is a black box technology that defies all reasonable logic, I have tried hard several times in my life at college to understand it and failed miserably, and owing to the fact it will kill me if I get it wrong, I only go within my comfort zone. VFD is in the post, I think the issue is too much juice, the motor is a 1.0 HP (750 W) and my converter is minimum of 1kW. If you don't see any more videos from me, you will know what has happened! Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop No chain pulling, far too energetic for me, 10 microns are the standard division on a hundredths mm micrometer and only problem is the Imp z.. Valve shims are usully less than 25mm and this is an extra problem as you dont have enough grip from the magnet and need an extra plate with holes to spread the grip. The fact that the SG is in the front garden doesn't stop an expert from working to tight tolerances, or an old fool like me eitger.😆
You could make wheel hubs for off grinder balancing if you could find wheels with a bore bigger than the 1 1/4" norm, so you could have separate hubs but then as you don't have flood coolant the finish will never be super-duper anyway.
To convert a static to rotary just needs a large motor permanently connected to the converter and your machine connected as well but through its NVR switch.
There are oil grooves but no reasonable way to fill them, an oil point or two would make life easier.
If the finish you get has regularly spaced marks it could be the rack and pinion. A change to taut wire or toothed belt arrangement might cure it but then a quick wipe with a 1200 wet and dry will make things look good with minimal change in dimension.
Re electrics, rubber soled boots and dont earth yourself and if you want have a swell funeral wait till after lockdown is finished.😉
Hi Jon nice new toy, for the extract ducting hoiw about unpainted ally or stainless steel, that would not look to ugly against the blue, and same for the hand wheels strip and polish. Happy Sunday Nige
Hi Nigel, thanks for the comment and suggestions. Think I will just go with mild steel for the tube (just because I have some and as yet have no welding capability for SS or Al). Will work something out, might go for Orange (as have a tin of it and it's my favourite colour). Handwheels are definitely getting polished. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon , your latest vid just popped up , now subscribed and bing watching to catch up with progress ..... epic!! Have the very same surface grinder , but alas mines a bit more baggy than yours , up/down /in/out tight but table travel tiered 😕 came out of a local model engineers workshop clearance ( he’s now working “ up stairs” ) had stood in a shed and the only leak was over my machine , didn’t pay a lot , now up and running on single phase interesting comment on single phase showing up in the ground surfaces !! Not found how the gib is adjusted for the table travel yet !!!
Enough waffle great channel .
Regards Robert
Partsmade
Hi Robert, thanks for the comment and sub, and welcome to the channel. Glad I have found someone with the same model, most of the guys in the comments who have one of these have a later version. If you could see mine now, you may wonder if it would ever work again, its all in bits! Anyway, as and when I get round to adjusting the play on mine, I will film it so you will have a reference. Cheers, Jon
Will watch with eager anticipation.... mine is a nice dark machine grey by the way 😎👍
Thanks for the video Jon. Hope your boiler problem gets sorted soon. Nice little grinder. Keep safe and stay well.
Hi Colin, thanks for the comment. Boiler is all done thankfully, but at a cost of £5.5k, the joys of rural living and burning oil for heating! Anyway, easy come, easy go as they say! We will have the grinder up and running soon. Cheers, Jon
That looking like a good find, you're building a fantastic workshop!
Hi Nigel, thanks for the comment. It's an excellent bit of kit (or at least it was before I took it to bits!). I am sure we will get it up and running with a bit of effort. Cheers, Jon
Hi, nice purchase, as stated elsewhere, check out the coil voltage for the contactor. If 240V you could use the socket behind the machine for the control supply and just use the 3phase for the motor. Let me know if you need any more help, electrician to trade (maintenance in a factory setting) so should be able to help you out. Chances are that the coil is 240V (3 phase is just 3 lives giving 440V between them and 240V is derived from 1 phase and neutral - not sure if your phase converter has a neutral output.
Hi Pakrattuk, thanks for the comment and suggestions. I very well my need to pick your brains at some point, Lecky is just a black box technology to me, never really understood it. The coil is 415 or 240 (changed via removing a jumper wire). My converter does have a neutral output but I wouldn't have a clue what to connect it to. Anyway, following some more digging, I think I have got to the root cause (still to be proven), it is only a 1.0 horse motor (approx 750W - I think), my converters minimum output is 1kW, therefore I think its just a case of too much juice.......seems logical as it will run for a bit which suggests it's only just over........ Maybe! VFD in the post, this eliminates the starter box and the inverter. I may come to you for more help so thanks for the offer, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop No problem - give me a shout any time
Hope you sort the issues soon, great machines I have a MK2 Unfortunately mine has had a terrible paint job but its smooth and wobble free. looking forward to seeing yours running soon.
Hi Brian, thanks for the comment and support. If you could see it now you could potentially draw the conclusion it may never work again lol, it's all in bits! I am sure we will get it back together again shortly. They are certainly fantastically made machines, hope you are enjoying yours. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop I have absolutely no doubt it won’t be long until it’s up and running perfectly. 👍
Landed on your feet there Jon it looks like a cracking machine. I'm sure you'll get over the unfortunate teething problems.
Looking forward to some quality work off it when it's sorted 👍
Atb Carl
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment, yes, really pleased with it despite the fact its now in bits (can't help myself)! Hopefully I can remember what to do after so many years lol. Cheers, Jon
Hi John, check the coil in the starter and make sure it's a 415v coil, assuming your phase converter is 415v, also make sure the motor is connected for 415v three phase and not 240v three phase.
Hi Toby, thanks for the comment and your suggestions, much appreciated. I have done some more checks, the starter can be 415 or 240V by changing a jumper, it's currently set for 415, the motor is 415 wired too. I think I have found the issue (yet to be proven), the motor is only a 1.0 horse (750 W roughly), my inverter is 1.0 Kw minimum so too much juice (I think). VFD in the post, we'll try that route first. Cheers, Jon
my guess is that the motor is set up in 415 volt and is drawing to mush amps through the coil , setting the motor up for 3 phase 220 volt (star) should solve it
@@watahyahknow a motor at 415v will draw less amps than a motor set at 240v plus at 415v it is in Wye/star config and at 240v it would be in delta config...
Great sturdy machine,you will be running out of space soon now.I understand the basics of surface grinding but no experience at all with it.What sort of parts are normally being done with it?Used the lockdown time here to fabricate more tools,2x72 inch belt grinder,hydr log splitter etc.....no need for super high tolerances but great fun to build and gain experience
Hi Robert, thanks for the comment. Yep, pretty much full now so need to get rid of the engraving machine if I want anything else. Surface Grinders in a home shop can be used for lots of stuff (parallels, V Blocks, gauges, tool grinding, tool making, the list is endless), in industry, they are mainly used where parallelism or squareness tolerances are tighter than milling or turning can produce. Your projects sound great, glad you are making stuff, no better feeling than using a tool you made yourself. Cheers, Jon
Hello Jon, congratulations. This is a great machine, just right for a small locksmith's shop. The only thing missing is a grinding vice. But you can buy it cheaply at every corner (pull-down vise). LG Peter
(google translator)
Hi Peter, thanks for the comment. Yes, I need to get a grinding vice, and quite a few other bits and pieces so I can use the grinder fully. It's a fantastic machine for its age, very happy with it. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, Nice machine, built to last, I'm sure you'll sort the electrickery. Cheers.
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment. Electrickery, you are spot on, it baffles the hell out of me. Think I have understood the problem now after a bit of digging, solution in the post! Cheers, Jon
Nice buy Jon. A VFD sounds like a good option to me. Gives you a lot of speed variations, as well as the soft start function. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, thanks for the comment and feedback, I have chosen the VFD route, figured out the issue, it's only a 1 horse motor which is just under the minimum of my converter. Couldn't help myself, changing all the bearings out as well. Cheers, Jon
As I mentioned in another post, you have to get rid of that static converter. You’ve really only got two phases from the static converter. It’s using a capacitor for the fake third phase. It’s a very unbalanced situation. You’re also only getting two thirds of the power out of the motor. Depending how the contractor is wired, a static converter may not hold it in. Go for a VFD.
You have to touch up the wheel while doing a job, as it gets worn with each pass across. After several passes the wheel isn’t flat.
Hi Mel, thanks for the comment. Yep, not one of my best purchases unfortunately. It has Ebay written all over it lol, it's just not nice to use at all. A future purchase may be a rotary converter (or separate VFD's, not decided yet). Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop there are electronic phase converters as well. If you don’t want to hassle with the sometimes complex set-up of a VFD, that might be a better choice. It’s simply,er, with less features, but more forgiving.
Great buy John you have a corker of a machine. I like the old school cool tommy bar hole. What you mentioned about
leaving the wheel running sounds good advice to me. Obviously there must have been wheel slip disasters in the past. Tony
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment. Just catching up with comments so apologies for the late response. Yep, agreed. It's a mint machine, wasn't cheap mind! Agreed on the Tommy bar hole too, don't see that on modern stuff. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, i have recently upgraded my myford super 7 to a Harrison M300, dropped on a well priced static converter that was supposed to be man enough for my machine, it worked to a point but i have ended up buying a rotary converter, that works a treat, as it turns out some 3 phase motors just dont like static converters, vfd seems a good and much cheaper option tbh, but if you do find a pot of gold, Transwave are a good shout and very very helpfull and knowledgeable for a convertor
Good luck 👍
Hi, thanks for the comment and your suggestions. Yeah, I didn't do enough reading before I got the static converter, you effectively lose about 30% overall power as the 3rd phase is not a full 415, it's some pseudo phase created by capacitors around 240v (ish). Mine is a transwave and they were helpful when I bought it, just wish I had gone for a rotary (will upgrade at some point, can't make full speed on my Harrison or even the 1700 rpm). Cheers, Jon
Great video, I am looking for a surface grinder, and the input from the video was very helpful.
Hi Jon
It might be good to check you motor kw size on the machine and what your phase converter minimum motor size is. You might have to fit a shunt motor in parallel to make up the difference.
Hi Skyflyer1000, thanks for the comment and suggestion. I think you have nailed it. The motor is only a 1.0 horse (approx 750W), and my inverter starts at 1kW, too much juice I think. VFD in the post, we will give this a go first. Cheers, Jon
Hi John I have exactly the same machine but when I got mine there were no bearings in the head I fitted back to back pre loaded bearings using shims as the preload until I thought it would be perfect which I must say worked fine ,but I would love to know how the original machine was as I can’t find nothing else about the spindle bearings online many thanks for uploading
Hi John, thanks for the comment and support of the channel. Keep watching, I couldn't help myself, mine is in bits now as I figured I might as well change the bearings out while I am at it. I will show in detail what came out which doesn't sound too dissimilar from what you describe. I have no reason to suspect that what was in there was not original factory fit, although the grease points don't line up with the bearings so I think they just used the same casting and swapped the oilers for greasers. I found 3 different types of grease inside, some looked and smelt really old. Cheers, Jon
School or college sounds plausible. Our school and college had some serious engineering kit that they never let anyone use, but probably would have made a great 2nd hand purchase for someone.
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment. Yep, same here, we had a half decent metalwork shop at school, bet there aren't many schools with one these days. Cheers, Jon
Well, even with the wiring headache, it's a very cool find! A surface grinder will be a great addition to your shop for sure! The color is ok, but if it were in my shop it would get painted one of the shades of Candy Apple Gray like the other machinery, lol!
Hi Everett, thanks for the comment. Yes, hopefully once rebuilt and the electrics sorted out it will be a great addition to the arsenal. It may get a face-lift at some point in the future. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, just so you know but all my machines are 3 phase, I use a 2.2kw VFDs, you can get them for around £100 from Amazon, they work great, give me a shout if you need any info
Hi Terry, don't want to ambush the thread, but have you got a link to the amazon sourced VFD?
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment and suggestions. I think I have understood the issue, the motor is only 1.0 HP (750W) and my converter is a 1kW minimum so too much juice I think. I have ordered a 750W VFD, let's see how it goes. I am also changing all the bearings out just for laughs, there was more grease in there than in a chip shop! Cheers, Jon
Mine has to deep groove ball races supporting the spindle, I think yours will be the same, the grease cups feed grease to the bearings by filling them to the brim and screwing the caps down forcing grease to the bearings
Hi Crozwayne, thanks for the comment. Yep, I can see how they intended it to be. On mine though, the grease cup position was right over the outer shell of the bearing in the rear meaning no grease could flow through, very strange. Cheers, Jon
Hay Jon, I have got and use the very same surface grinder, mine did make a noise on the bearings, but they are cheep and easy to install, so now she’s as sweet as a nut,
Mine has the same mag chuck too,
Nice find, hope it works well for ya buddy 👍🏻😉
Hi Mark, thanks for the comment. Just catching up with comments so apologies for the late response. It's all good so far, although not really used it in anger yet. Cheers, Jon
I would certainly go vfd as mine without the wheel slips
Hi Matthew, thanks for the comment and support of the channel. I am going VFD, decision made, although I have managed to make a right balls up of that journey so far wich I will cover in the next video lol. Cheers, Jon
That will be a great addition to the shop . Good second hand machines are hard to find here & if they are good they go for top dollar . Cheers .
Hi Max, thanks for the comment, just catching up with comments so apologies for the delay responding. Same here mate, it wasn't a cheap one, don't tell my financial director lol. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop My one hit the roof when i bought a Herbert No 2 Capstan lathe the other week !
@@swanvalleymachineshop Ha haaaa, lol Max. Now Herbert Capstans are the real deal, I have spent 1000's of hours in my past on No 4's No 8's and No 9's, as well as Ward 2A, 4As. Never seen a Herb No2, looking forward very much to that reveal mate. Cheers, Jon
I got one exactly the same, painted it the same colour too!
Hi Crozwayne, thanks for the comment, they are not a bad machine despite their age. Cheers, Jon
I’m bidding on a surface grinder Tuesday. I’m debating on moving it my self of hiring it out. 8x 28
Nice, good luck, I will keep my eye out for its arrival on your channel. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, i saw your fantastic surface grinder, i am looking for something similar but here in Italy there 's nothing like that, could you suggest me a shop in UK, where Is possible find one?
Also smaller, like Sanford, It will be not cheap to bring here...but i want to try!
Thanks in any case, Cheers from Italy, Alberto
Hi Alberto, thanks for the comment. That is a difficult question, there are quite a few 2nd hand machine dealers in the UK but not sure if they ship overseas. I got mine from Tooz4you (Ebay), might be worth getting in touch with them and asking if they would ship to you. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop Thanks Jon !!
Hi Jon. I see by other comments made you seem to be sorting the issue. Have you bought a 240 to 415 inverter or 240 to 240 three phase one? If the latter you will have to swap the motor windings to delta from star. I'm sure you know that. It could be simple if the motor has an external jb with the windings brought into that. If not it can still be done by accessing the ends of the windings in the motor. I'd be happy to help.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment. I have got 240 to 240. Things have got quite complex due to my own stupidity and lack of sparky knowledge combined. I will email you. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, the link you put up for the grinder turned out to be the name shown on their eBay site but their actual registered name on eBay is 'Toolz_4_You Tool Shop'.
You probably think I'm a right busybody but I just thought I'd put it on here in case anybody is trying to find it, eBay couldn't find Tools4youltd.
Great find that Jon, nice one.
Hi Glyn, thanks for the comment and link. Just catching up with comments I have missed so apologies for the delay responding. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, just found your channel! Thanks for the videos and nice grinder! I have a similar eagle grinder, I think slightly later, bought a while ago, needed a little work but slowly getting there. Mine had opposing taper roller bearings, one each end of the spindle. There seems to be many variations on bearing arrangements on these. I have my motor running from a VFD - had to manually convert to delta by digging out the star point in the motor - first time I’d done that, but wasn’t too bad, and motor runs very smoothly. I would be interested to find out what diameter your main traverse handwheel is - mine is small, same size as cross feed, and seems like hard work! Keep up the good work!
Hi James, thanks for the comment, and welcome to the channel (or mad House!) Agreed, far too many variations and not much original material available to understand what was factory intent. My traverse handle is roughly 250mm dia, and it's a good work out so you really must struggle. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jon
Would be nice to know the young girls history! Looks a beaut Jon ye lucky bugger. TFS, GB :)
Hi Graeme, thanks for the comment, if you could see the poor thing now, you may not be so complimentary, it's kind of all in bits! I am sure we will get it back together again and I am looking forward to taking it for a spin. Cheers, Jon
Thanks!
It's small, I ran a mattison 14 x 48 inch chuck
Hi Eddie, thanks for the comment. Yep, so is my garage so I am very space limited. It at least gives me some options. Cheers, Jon
Just to satisfy your Sherlock Holmes deduction that perhaps it came from a school, why don't you email the Company you purchased it from and ask ? Cracking find there, hope it will give you many Years of Happy Grinding. Regards from Australia.
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment, I will try and find out from them, I am guessing based on this thing being about 70 years old that it has had a few owners over that time (all very caring and careful I might add). Cheers, Jon
have you checked if the motor is set up in star and not in delta that might be the problem if you run 3 phase 220 volts , i have two machines running on a vfd (both of them on their own vfd) and i needed to change both of them over to star to get them to run good
allso the grinding wheel of a surface grinder is usally mounted with a hub to the machine that has a taper on the shaft for the hub to seat on , that way you can chance wheels without having to regrind them (if you have extra hubs for the machine)
th-cam.com/video/b1VfQHGvFJw/w-d-xo.html
a vfd would be a good idea i dont know if the vfd would play nice with the contacter though you might need to change that to an actual switch or delete it and run the the machine of the knobs on the vfd
im not a profesional electrician i know just enough to keep myself from being shocked and i just mess with stuff untill they work (wish i wouldnt advise others to do )
Hi Watahyahknow, thanks for the comment and suggestions. If you keep watching the series you will see I ended up going down the VFD route, and I also ran through, to the best of my knowledge, what the original issue was. I am like you, just know enough to stay alive and that's where my knowledge runs out. In terms of the wheel mount, agreed, most grinders have hubs on a taper, this one doesn't unfortunately, the wheel locates directly onto the shaft! No way of quick change or balancing. I may end up making a new shaft for it eventually. Cheers, Jon