Hi Gary..if you want something to look a bit brighter but still detailed, have you considered a dry brush of your base coat /after/ the detail wash? That should pick up the edges and give you a third - highlight - colour. I must admit I chuckled at the captions 'This bit is wrong' etc :)
Yes, makes sense to paint something, then detail wash, then dry brush. I do use a second dry brush if my detail wash ruins the effect (d'oh!). The trick is to remember that every shadow also needs a highlight.
@@garys_stuff I do 28mm model figures and base coat in black. That's the shadow sorted then a heay dry brush of the main colour and a lighter brush of a highlight colour. Maybe a wash after that :)
In 1991 I was in college with a sergeant from RAF St Athan who worked on escape systems so I asked him about the scene in Maverick when Goose was killed hitting his head on the canopy. He said there are too many redundant safety systems [Edit: I belatedly remembered the term I was looking for 'fail-safes'] for that to happen.
I think you'll find that in a flat spin, there is no forward air pressure to move the canopy upwards, in level flight it's no problem as the airflow does the job, spinning really can't work ok?
@@melmoore6885 No not 'OK?' as you sarcastically put it. The MDCs in the glass are supposed to shatter it /before/ anyone ejects. In the absence of MDCs /explosive bolts/ push the canopy free regardless of airflow. Ejecting from the ground works where there is obviously no air flow so obviously it doesn't need it.
Never believe what a service person tells you or at least take it with a lot of salt!. The goose death was actually based on a real life incident of an F 14 in a flat spin, with pilot and RIO ejecting, the RIO died hitting his head on the canopy, as a result the ejection sequence was modified thereafter, so Mel Moore is correct.
Hi Gary, Great build as always. For next time get hold of some of the Tamiya polishing compounds, I stuffed up a canopy but using just the finishing compound and a soft cloth was able to restore it,which goes to show its pretty much idiot proof🤔 I suspect you have some spare canopies, to test it out on first. But as said its fairly easy with that Tamiya stuff.
Gary, the hardest part of writing is editing. Anyone can dump out a bunch of words on a page but the craftsmanship is cutting and shaping it into something greater than the pieces. Every build you do you get better at telling a story without showing every part and step, but spending more time expanding on the larger issue at hand. It is less and less stick Part A to the tab on Part B, and more this is the effect we're looking for in the interior of the Anson, and I'm tired of fiddling with the decal bits so this is what I did to bring out the raised detail on the GR's instrument panel. It's becoming more and more fun to listen to the narration that you're creating as the video rolls forward. It's not Michaelangelo -- "zee figure she is already in zee stone" -- but it's definitely an artform. Can't wait for build 2! Cheers!.
Nice to see you ‘jump’ straight into the build and not ‘hover ‘around thinking about it ,😊,question did any harrier all marks break the sound barrier ?,be it intentionally or in a dive ,I’m asking as a news real from 1968 said the RAFs new supersonic hover jet it showed a GR1 but I know it’s not a supersonic aircraft ,model looks great Gary All the best mate Mark 👍🏻👍🏻😊
@@garys_stuff cheers Gary ,still sad the the P1152 was never built I think that was for the fleet air arm too not sure if it was Mach 1or2 but still much better and once again saying it the bag of bolts F35 ,but if you get to build one then it’s ok I won’t unsubscribe 😂😂😂😂,nursing a heavy cold at present 😅
Nice work on the Harrier cockpit Gary. Building the Airfix 1/72 Sea Harrier at the moment, not a bad kid the moulding is starting to show its age now though.
Made a few of them (seven all told) - well, Harriers and Sea Harriers. never got on with the exhaust nozzles or the fit of the intakes on the fuselage. But otherwise good enough kits. At least the 1/72 Harrier GR.9 has all the weapons and sensors supplied!
@@garys_stuff It was bit of a struggle fusing the 2 main fuselage parts together. I was going to ask Gary what do you recommend for varnishes? Humbrol gloss and Matt aren't the best. Used a Tamiya semi-gloss rattle can and it damaged some of the paint work. Had to sand some of the wing and respray it. Probaly didn't help as the can was nearly finished and spitting out.
@@wickwicker8575 I've been using Vallejo varnishes for gloss and satin and Windsor & Newton Galeria for matt. I just found rattle cans really expensive and the results were never all that great apart from Humbrol satin.
@@garys_stuff you're right about the rattle cans being expensive 2 tins of Tamiya varnish clear and flat clear from my local model shop nearly £14. Must find cheaper alternatives.
Hi Gary, the build is coming along vety nicely, I really liked how the whole cockpit turned out, especially the ejection seat, good luck with the rest of the build, best regards from a Kiwi living in Australia.
In showcasing this kit, you would naturally want to use the kit's pilot seat for the build, and it looks great. That said, why do model companies bother including their own styrene ejection seats anymore, when resin aftermarket seats generally depict the detail so much better and are usually in one piece? IMO, the pilot's seat is the focal point, and a resin seat is about the easiest and most cost-effective upgrade you can include. Again, not a commentary on your build, just a thought that crossed my mind.
Indeed - it's almost like they could have two levels like Eduard do - a regular kit then one with all the extras such as resin seats, masks, etc. I think I'd be right in assuming that Airifx will say that resin seats aren't for every modeller. I had a similar conversation in re the instrument decals in the Anson, I suggested they could have been cut into sections but the answer was that they would likely be fielding complaints about it being too fiddly! I guess it's a narrow line to walk and it does generate sales for the aftermarket companies!
Looking good so far! 👍 Nicely detailed kit, but looks like a pretty 'quick' build! Looking forward to paint! Oh, your cockpit detailing is excellent; that seat looks great! 👍
Same glue as always, either Revell contacta or Tamiya extra thin depending on the part. I don't find an issue with acrylics, although I do sometimes sand joints mainly so they fit correctly rather than for glue adhesion.
I could have sworn in the Unboxing video you said the nozzles were linked.. was I wrong? Is there space between them to glue a piece of sprue to connect them?
They are linked in pairs side to side, but the front pair aren't linked to the back. Unlike in the Harrier, of course. I guess it would require something of an elastic band between the axles or some gearing to achieve. But I'm not bothering with the links because I don't worry about having the nozzles move, they'll just be glued in place.
@@garys_stuff Oh I see what you mean. Yes something like a rack and pinion with a toothed bar against teeth on both front and rear bars but then how to hold it in place?
If you're doing an open cockpit then a seat would be good, you can take a position on instruments but I think they dry brush up nicely - you can spot in colour if you want (and know where it goes!). It only comes with Sidewinders, fuel tanks and gun pods, so you'll need to source your own sensors and weapons to suit.
Perfect build 👍
Good build Gary 👍this is a Redbox of the original Hasegawa GR7/GR9 and the AV8B too 👍
It is, but with new decals I believe (Cartograf).
That was very enjoyable and well presented Gary thanks . Regards Gav.
Thanks Gav!
Nice job on the seatbelts!
Thanks Owen! Such a simple thing to do (especially at 1/48th) but makes a huge difference.
Hi Gary..if you want something to look a bit brighter but still detailed, have you considered a dry brush of your base coat /after/ the detail wash? That should pick up the edges and give you a third - highlight - colour.
I must admit I chuckled at the captions 'This bit is wrong' etc :)
Yes, makes sense to paint something, then detail wash, then dry brush. I do use a second dry brush if my detail wash ruins the effect (d'oh!). The trick is to remember that every shadow also needs a highlight.
@@garys_stuff I do 28mm model figures and base coat in black. That's the shadow sorted then a heay dry brush of the main colour and a lighter brush of a highlight colour. Maybe a wash after that :)
In 1991 I was in college with a sergeant from RAF St Athan who worked on escape systems so I asked him about the scene in Maverick when Goose was killed hitting his head on the canopy. He said there are too many redundant safety systems [Edit: I belatedly remembered the term I was looking for 'fail-safes'] for that to happen.
I think you'll find that in a flat spin, there is no forward air pressure to move the canopy upwards, in level flight it's no problem as the airflow does the job, spinning really can't work ok?
@@melmoore6885 No not 'OK?' as you sarcastically put it. The MDCs in the glass are supposed to shatter it /before/ anyone ejects. In the absence of MDCs /explosive bolts/ push the canopy free regardless of airflow. Ejecting from the ground works where there is obviously no air flow so obviously it doesn't need it.
@@julianmhall
A Zero/Zero ejection seat works at zero speed, sitting at zero altitude. No forward airflow is required even to blow the canopy away.
Never believe what a service person tells you or at least take it with a lot of salt!. The goose death was actually based on a real life incident of an F 14 in a flat spin, with pilot and RIO ejecting, the RIO died hitting his head on the canopy, as a result the ejection sequence was modified thereafter, so Mel Moore is correct.
Thanks Julian, much appreciate d.
Hi Gary, Great build as always. For next time get hold of some of the Tamiya polishing compounds, I stuffed up a canopy but using just the finishing compound and a soft cloth was able to restore it,which goes to show its pretty much idiot proof🤔
I suspect you have some spare canopies, to test it out on first. But as said its fairly easy with that Tamiya stuff.
I'll look into those compounds - the new Spitfire has two canopies - the çorrect'one has a seam and a slightly smaller one doesn't.
Gary, the hardest part of writing is editing. Anyone can dump out a bunch of words on a page but the craftsmanship is cutting and shaping it into something greater than the pieces.
Every build you do you get better at telling a story without showing every part and step, but spending more time expanding on the larger issue at hand.
It is less and less stick Part A to the tab on Part B, and more this is the effect we're looking for in the interior of the Anson, and I'm tired of fiddling with the decal bits so this is what I did to bring out the raised detail on the GR's instrument panel.
It's becoming more and more fun to listen to the narration that you're creating as the video rolls forward.
It's not Michaelangelo -- "zee figure she is already in zee stone" -- but it's definitely an artform. Can't wait for build 2!
Cheers!.
Thanks for your very generous comments Randy. I'm trying to refine the presentation all the time and feedback is an essential part of it!
Nice to see you ‘jump’ straight into the build and not ‘hover ‘around thinking about it ,😊,question did any harrier all marks break the sound barrier ?,be it intentionally or in a dive ,I’m asking as a news real from 1968 said the RAFs new supersonic hover jet it showed a GR1 but I know it’s not a supersonic aircraft ,model looks great Gary
All the best mate
Mark 👍🏻👍🏻😊
It would certainly go supersonic in a dive - quite how much of a dive I don't know but probably about 15-20 degrees or so from reasonably high up.
@@garys_stuff cheers Gary ,still sad the the P1152 was never built I think that was for the fleet air arm too not sure if it was Mach 1or2 but still much better and once again saying it the bag of bolts F35 ,but if you get to build one then it’s ok I won’t unsubscribe 😂😂😂😂,nursing a heavy cold at present 😅
Nice work on the Harrier cockpit Gary. Building the Airfix 1/72 Sea Harrier at the moment, not a bad kid the moulding is starting to show its age now though.
Made a few of them (seven all told) - well, Harriers and Sea Harriers. never got on with the exhaust nozzles or the fit of the intakes on the fuselage. But otherwise good enough kits. At least the 1/72 Harrier GR.9 has all the weapons and sensors supplied!
@@garys_stuff It was bit of a struggle fusing the 2 main fuselage parts together. I was going to ask Gary what do you recommend for varnishes? Humbrol gloss and Matt aren't the best. Used a Tamiya semi-gloss rattle can and it damaged some of the paint work. Had to sand some of the wing and respray it. Probaly didn't help as the can was nearly finished and spitting out.
@@wickwicker8575 I've been using Vallejo varnishes for gloss and satin and Windsor & Newton Galeria for matt. I just found rattle cans really expensive and the results were never all that great apart from Humbrol satin.
@@garys_stuff you're right about the rattle cans being expensive 2 tins of Tamiya varnish clear and flat clear from my local model shop nearly £14. Must find cheaper alternatives.
The BAE Harrier used ejection seat Martin Baker mk 9. The USMC Harrier used ejection seat Stensel III.
The British Harrier GR5, 7 & 9 actually used the Martin Baker Mk 12 seat.
Coming along nicely Gary. Thanks for sharing. 😎🇨🇦
You bet Peter!
Hi Gary thanks for additional info on the paints as you talk through the build
My pleasure, viewers have asked for it so it is done! That's democracy for you...kind of.
It's looking Gary, I love the cockpit details, nice one.
Many thanks Fred!
That looks like a really good kit. And you did an excellent job!
Hi Gary, the build is coming along vety nicely, I really liked how the whole cockpit turned out, especially the ejection seat, good luck with the rest of the build, best regards from a Kiwi living in Australia.
Thanks Les!
Watching with interest Gary, great insight into this great machine’s build..cheers
Cheers man!
Looking good Gary. I saw these at Telford and was sorely tempted but decided I’ve got enough kits to be going on with for now!
Know the feeling - I was very sensible at Telford!
Nice job, Gary! This despite the occasional bout of faffery…!
Looking forward to seeing the finishing touches!
Best wishes, as ever.
Thanks Darren 👍
In showcasing this kit, you would naturally want to use the kit's pilot seat for the build, and it looks great. That said, why do model companies bother including their own styrene ejection seats anymore, when resin aftermarket seats generally depict the detail so much better and are usually in one piece? IMO, the pilot's seat is the focal point, and a resin seat is about the easiest and most cost-effective upgrade you can include. Again, not a commentary on your build, just a thought that crossed my mind.
Indeed - it's almost like they could have two levels like Eduard do - a regular kit then one with all the extras such as resin seats, masks, etc. I think I'd be right in assuming that Airifx will say that resin seats aren't for every modeller. I had a similar conversation in re the instrument decals in the Anson, I suggested they could have been cut into sections but the answer was that they would likely be fielding complaints about it being too fiddly! I guess it's a narrow line to walk and it does generate sales for the aftermarket companies!
Also, in some kits the part count would be adversely affected - the seat in this kit is eight parts (I think). Marketing people love a parts count!
Looking good so far! 👍
Nicely detailed kit, but looks like a pretty 'quick' build!
Looking forward to paint! Oh, your cockpit detailing is excellent; that seat looks great! 👍
Thanks Steve! Yes, relatively quick compared to the other things I've been doing of late!
Coming along nicely Gary, looks a decent kit.
Just out of interest, do you mind if I ask how many hours did it take to get the build up to this point?
Hey Chris, this so far is probably about four hours or so - plus time waiting for stuff to dry or glue to set. Easy to get this far in a day.
Thanks Gary, I was just been nosey, guess I'm just a slow coach with my builds!
@@chrisfirth1803 it's my full-time thing, so the time it takes is a bit skewed for me!
Hi Gary , what glue do you use on painted parts . Cheers mate
Same glue as always, either Revell contacta or Tamiya extra thin depending on the part. I don't find an issue with acrylics, although I do sometimes sand joints mainly so they fit correctly rather than for glue adhesion.
I could have sworn in the Unboxing video you said the nozzles were linked.. was I wrong? Is there space between them to glue a piece of sprue to connect them?
They are linked in pairs side to side, but the front pair aren't linked to the back. Unlike in the Harrier, of course. I guess it would require something of an elastic band between the axles or some gearing to achieve. But I'm not bothering with the links because I don't worry about having the nozzles move, they'll just be glued in place.
@@garys_stuff Oh I see what you mean. Yes something like a rack and pinion with a toothed bar against teeth on both front and rear bars but then how to hold it in place?
You could use a cam and link on each lateral bar in the engine bay. But my experience is if you tell someone that something works,
it soon doesn't.
@@randytaylor1258 sounds like the voice of experience *lol*
@@julianmhall
👍
I had this one turn up in the post a few days ago. Is it worth buying any aftermarket for it?
If you're doing an open cockpit then a seat would be good, you can take a position on instruments but I think they dry brush up nicely - you can spot in colour if you want (and know where it goes!). It only comes with Sidewinders, fuel tanks and gun pods, so you'll need to source your own sensors and weapons to suit.
@@garys_stuff thanks for the reply. Maybe some 3d decals if they are available. At least a resin seat.