Thanks for getting back to me. I guess I knew what your answer would be even before I asked the question but was hoping this would work. Since the motor is all back together again I really did not want to strip it down if I could avoid it. Let the adventure begin! I can assure you I will be referring to this video often!
Jesse and your father well done, have enjoyed almost every minute of watching this one . Its been more than 40 years since I stripped down my T140D and customised when my actual intention was to create better reliability. Truth be known in hind site I really did not understand enough about the correct starting sequence🤔. Im now looking for a project here in Bali, Indonesia though the pickings are slim, I just miss that Meriden British Iron to ride 🙄. Your Playlist has provided a great template for the disassemble and assemble of any future project👍.
By chance did you swap out the carb at the end of this project? First part of video you are tickling a later style, large tickler. Then just before the ride, I noticed the tickler is the early, small style. Also, do you have any trouble with the side "inspection" windows on the rocker boxes leaking? I owned a 71 and never could cure the leaks there. Copper crush washers, Yamabond, made no difference. I would have ditched those when they needed replacing, just my opinion🙂. Nice looking bike.
Yes we actually had two rebuilt carburetors, the first part of the video after initially starting it we thought it was running weird because of the carb so we swapped carbs but the earlier carb was doing it to and then we found out the choke cable was the problem and didn't swap carbs back because I really wanted the earlier carb on it anyway, oh and the 71 inspection covers we just used the copper crush washers and it hasn't leaked yet but I haven't got many miles racked up on it to see if there is going to be any leaks, thanks for your questions and comments
That tension device is something I built years ago to hold the exhaust pipes tight and in place it's just a 1/4" turnbuckle it has an Eye bolt at each side one bolt is left hand thread and one right hand thread and a lock nut added to hold tension and two exhaust pipe clamps the same size as the pipes. similar to this: National Hardware N221-747 2170 Eye/Eye Turnbuckles in Zinc, 1/4" x 7-1/2
I am working on a '71 tr6r, I have rebuilt the top end, new pistons and rings. Rebuilt the rocker boxes, and replaced the clutch. I still have a way to go but I am starting to get "sluge trap nightmares". I know the bike was sitting at least 20 years before I got. Rather than do a complete tear down I was thinking of putting a sludge reducing oil in along with Marvel mystery oil and circulate it through the system using the kick start every three or four days no startup. What do you think is this a good idea or am I asking for trouble??? Thanks for your opinion.
I don't think you will ever flush the sludge trap clean and depending on how full your sludge trap is you could dislodge some of it and actually block oil flow to your main bearings and if that would happen a rod will seize and possibly break and ruin crank and cases! Every sluge trap we've ever had apart had a lot of hard gritty gunk in them, and it's not something I'd want to circulate through my motor. So if your motor is being worked on and you don't know it's complete history of oil changes and mileage of between changes it most likely would look like this motor we just did and it only showed just under 10,000 miles and was almost completey plugged.
Proper British twin sound. Nice job.
Loved this series. So many memories of my Triumph 6T (then my BSA A65L). And this is what proper motorbikes sound like.
Thanks for getting back to me. I guess I knew what your answer would be even before I asked the question but was hoping this would work. Since the motor is all back together again I really did not want to strip it down if I could avoid it. Let the adventure begin! I can assure you I will be referring to this video often!
Jesse and your father well done, have enjoyed almost every minute of watching this one . Its been more than 40 years since I stripped down my T140D and customised when my actual intention was to create better reliability. Truth be known in hind site I really did not understand enough about the correct starting sequence🤔. Im now looking for a project here in Bali, Indonesia though the pickings are slim, I just miss that Meriden British Iron to ride 🙄. Your Playlist has provided a great template for the disassemble and assemble of any future project👍.
That threaded tensioner that locks the exhaust pipes together in the front is a neat trick. Never saw that one before.Live n Learn.
Sounds really sweet on the ride, good job!
Really miss the good roads over there.
Zip tie on the fuel pipe???
By chance did you swap out the carb at the end of this project? First part of video you are tickling a later style, large tickler. Then just before the ride, I noticed the tickler is the early, small style. Also, do you have any trouble with the side "inspection" windows on the rocker boxes leaking? I owned a 71 and never could cure the leaks there. Copper crush washers, Yamabond, made no difference. I would have ditched those when they needed replacing, just my opinion🙂. Nice looking bike.
Yes we actually had two rebuilt carburetors, the first part of the video after initially starting it we thought it was running weird because of the carb so we swapped carbs but the earlier carb was doing it to and then we found out the choke cable was the problem and didn't swap carbs back because I really wanted the earlier carb on it anyway, oh and the 71 inspection covers we just used the copper crush washers and it hasn't leaked yet but I haven't got many miles racked up on it to see if there is going to be any leaks, thanks for your questions and comments
Hi jesse, where did you get the stablizer for the downpipes, Im almost there with mine 👍👌
That tension device is something I built years ago to hold the exhaust
pipes tight and in place it's just a 1/4" turnbuckle it has an Eye
bolt at each side one bolt is left hand thread and one right hand
thread and a lock nut added to hold tension and two exhaust pipe
clamps the same size as the pipes. similar to this:
National Hardware N221-747 2170 Eye/Eye Turnbuckles in Zinc, 1/4" x 7-1/2
I am working on a '71 tr6r, I have rebuilt the top end, new pistons and rings. Rebuilt the rocker boxes, and replaced the clutch. I still have a way to go but I am starting to get "sluge trap nightmares". I know the bike was sitting at least 20 years before I got. Rather than do a complete tear down I was thinking of putting a sludge reducing oil in along with Marvel mystery oil and circulate it through the system using the kick start every three or four days
no startup. What do you think is this a good idea or am I asking for trouble??? Thanks for your opinion.
I don't think you will ever flush the sludge trap clean and depending on how full your sludge trap is you could dislodge some of it and actually block oil flow to your main bearings and if that would happen a rod will seize and possibly break and ruin crank and cases! Every sluge trap we've ever had apart had a lot of hard gritty gunk in them, and it's not something I'd want to circulate through my motor. So if your motor is being worked on and you don't know it's complete history of oil changes and mileage of between changes it most likely would look like this motor we just did and it only showed just under 10,000 miles and was almost completey plugged.
Your rear torque arm fell down