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62 Harley

@@alanhodge984 No the air jet is still in place. People talk about taking it out when changing the jetting to the so called Non EPA or European jetting. But to be honest my bike just runs all around better with mostly original jetting. As you watched the video the only major thing I changed was the needle jet I changed out the original stainless 105 to a 106 needle jet with mostly everything else the same I did put smaller enrichner jet in I've tried a few different ones and the 35 and 40 both work nice mine originally had a 50 and you had to take the enrichment lever off rather quickly or it could foul plugs easily.

@@jessesvintagegarage765 sounds good i am going to order some 106 jets and keep everything else (in the carbs) stock i had the screws out 2 1/2 turns per the 'book' but way too lean with gauze/wire pancake filters and 'freeflow' emgo short megaphones i am going riding in the AM with screws out 1 3/4 turns and see what that does.......thanks for all your help ride safe!

@@user-ek5hp4fn4l The blue sealed bearing that was in the kit was a C3 bearing so we just ordered a shielded C3 bearing and used it. Just so you know a bearings clearance will change if the bearings outside and inside are a tight fit or opposite if both sides are a loose slip fit if you follow what I mean?

@@donrice8026 Thanks

@@daveco1270 The center stand, yes we connected spring first and attached a ratchet strap to the center stand and the end of the swing arm and started ratcheting until the holes lined up and popped in the bolts and started tightening them up it worked great, and I wanted to record that but it took both of us and we were up to our elbows at trying to get it done, thanks for the great comment

I heard about a technique to get the spring on by using 10 cent coins. You just stick a bunch between the coils of the spring and when you get enough in it makes the spring long enough to clip it in. Have not tried it myself, but saw that in another video. This ratchet method obviously works too.

I have used the coin method along with a “T” handled hook used for dirt bikes exhaust. Getting the hardware lined up while the spring is under tension with a ratchet strap seems a bit complicated and you said it took two of you. I’ve done this job alone using coins and hook on both running bikes and frame up rebuilds.

@@cdpd3 there are two sets of hardware to look engine to frame set, smmotorco.com/product/triumph-tr6-t120-engine-to-frame-bolt-nut-set-650cc-bonneville-tiger-1965-68/ and the actual just frame hardware set www.thebonnevilleshop.com/product/1965-68-triumph-650-t120-tr6-bonneville-frame-bolt-hardware-kit-pn-tbs-frame-03/ this should cover you the shock hardware is separate though late 68’s the threads started changing these places are good at listing part numbers so make sure to reference your parts book and you should be good to go, thanks for the great comment and we’re happy to help anyone,

@@cdpd3 I know exactly what you mean about the hardware, I had similar problems, cross threaded, random hardware that was not the right length and thread pitch, and the finish wasn’t good enough on the correct stuff so I had got both of those kits I mentioned in the previous message in this video particularly the hardware for the center stand is original there was so much grease and oil on the bolts lock tabs and nuts that the finish actually stayed nice so I cleaned it all up and reused it that hardware is hidden well and seemed good to me though we are trying really hard to make this bike look amazing, and good luck with yours, best wishes and thanks again,

@@jessesvintagegarage765 Thanks for the reply, I will look there and see if I can find everything I need.

@@jessesvintagegarage765 and yea, this bike has everything, metric, imperial, hex bolts, BSF, BSW, it is all here. I mean I get it, this bike was ridden and over the years lots of stuff had to be fixed with what they had and it works. I just want to start fresh with a clean set. Thanks again for the info

@@neilzlozower3430 I thought I did let me try again

Yes those are breathers in an earlier video we talked about those breathers and we found those quite reasonably priced they made sense to us to add. Those aluminum washers are a necessity, Here is the video when we first installed the rocker boxes th-cam.com/video/93-HtxggcE0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-XEQjzX9qzy2vr72 hopefully this helps, in the comments in that video there is a link for the rocker box breathers on where to find the ones we got,

@@haroldhholden awesome thanks, we do try to provide great detail and information to help out everyone we appreciate your great comment thanks again

@@haroldhholden I am about to post part 7 sorry for the hold up

@@andremenezes6428 awesome thanks

@@user-ek5hp4fn4l We choose to stay with the same style bearings as original. Although sealed bearings would've probably worked fine, but we didn't want that style.

@@neilzlozower3430 Yes those are breathers in an earlier video we talked about those breathers and we found those quite reasonably priced they made sense to us to add. Those aluminum washers are a necessity, Here is the video when we first installed the rocker boxes th-cam.com/video/93-HtxggcE0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-XEQjzX9qzy2vr72 hopefully this helps, in the comments in that video there is a link for the rocker box breathers on where to find the ones we got,

It looks like you are looking for old number 0129 and 0261 the print says 0262 but that washer is really difficult to locate and I believe the later parts books say 0261 the new numbers are 7789 and 7050 a good place to find individual hardware parts is Deluxe HD restorations, deluxehdrestorations.com/search?x=0&y=0&q=3%2F8 just click on the menu and click on the search and type in the individual hardware part numbers I get a lot of my hardware here and colony hardware kits are great, good luck and thanks

@@Foche_T._Schitt You are correct thanks,

The air screws can be anywhere from 1.5 to 2.5 turns out on Amal Mk2 carburetors it generally relates to the pilot jet size. We have number 25 pilot jets and air screws are approximately 2 turns out. Turning the air screw in for rich and out leans it. So if your engine gets it's highest running with the air screws less than 1.5 turns you need a bigger pilot jet if the highest idle is over 2.5 turns you need a smaller pilot jet it should idle well at 1000 rpm at around 2 turns out also sometimes popping can occur on the over run while decelerating is caused by leaness so turning the air screws in by an 1/8 to 1/4 turn usually clears that up. All 78 and later T140E with parallel ported heads with Mk2 carburetors need a hotter plug or fouling occurs. RN5C champion or BR6ES NGK plugs are the correct size you don't need the R plugs but it's getting hard to find non resistor spark plugs and R plugs work just fine.

Yes for our bike the 106 mk2 needle jet works very well different elevations might need different needle height adjustments but all the other jets and needle are standard. I tried the so called Non EPA needle and parts but I couldn't get it to run near as good as it does now.

@@jessesvintagegarage765 many thanks for the info my bike is street tracker style built from basketcase with mostly new parts including new mkiis can i post a pic here?

www.legendmcs.com/ they promote the HD # 9084 bearings as Torrington and made in the USA 88pc set, and it seemed the way to go

Yes when motor was up to operating temperature the oil pressure before the change ran between 32 and 35lbs now after the change it starts cold at 60lbs and after it get fully up to operating temperature it's running at 50lbs these pressures I'm referring to are at cruising speed at around 60 of course at lower speeds it's lower pressures.

I ended up getting it from v-twin, OEM type replacement case VT# 43-9149

@@jessesvintagegarage765 Thank you for the details. I have been thinking about putting together a new ratchet top using a VT case and US sourced internals like you have here. However I have not seen many folks use a VT case. Would you use their case again?

@@QuiltingJeri sure would in fact I needed a second transmission case for my 56 pan and got the same part for that bike, this transmission case is excellent and the parts went right in and worked as you can see in this video, but I am working on a new video on the 40 and I have rode it a couple times and the transmission functions great as well,

Well, kick starting a bike with the kick stand down is fine if you aren't standing on the rider pegs and kicking, putting all your weight and the bikes weight on the side stand while kicking! I always hold the bike while standing on the ground and kick. To me, the side stand is down for a safety measure against having the bike accidentally falling over while kicking.

Well the guy that my father was helping years ago at the Triumph dealership showed and taught him the same way that we did this clutch, he had told him it was best way not to warp anything taking it apart or putting it back together when it came to clutches like these.