Don't forget that as part of the initial self check (immediately after a call for heat R-W) the circuit board MUST see the contacts of the pressure switch to be in the open position. This ensures no one has jumpered the pressure switch to trick it should a blocked vent, etc. be the problem. Attaching a jumper across the pressure switch after the vent motor starts will allow one complete heating cycle but the board will prohibit a second cycle with the jumper attached. This prevents spillage and carbon monoxide issues that could lead to deaths.
Bloody hell use a u gauge so easy and simple. Connect it to the upstream test point and fire up your furnace. If there's perceivable movement. Then your gas is coming through. If not then time to buy a new gas valve done. You can check for ohms of resistance if you have a multimeter. Check you manufacturers instructions for specific range.
My ignitor doesn't come on. I ohmed and continuity tested all the parts, checked ohms on gas valve also, all good. I'm stuck now. Also checked airflow in vents etc. Ignitor has continuity, gas valve coils have proper ohms. I jumped out thermal coupler temporarily, I checked thermostat and that has continuity. I don't think the gas valve is bad. I could check the gas valve coils again. I don't think I have a bad gas valve. Again no ignitor glow. PS great work.
1) make sure propane tank is not empty. 2) make sure natural gas is present and valve is turned on. 3) use manometer to check input and output ports on the gas valve. 4) check the voltage across the terminals. 5) If the voltage is present but the output port on the gas valve is showing 0 WC.....GAS VALVE IS BAD!!!!
Before you do all these steps, do this instead, do a hard reset on the furnace, then start up the furnace to request heat, wait for ignitor starts glowing, as soon it glows, start tapping the gas valve with the screwdriver handle gently, check if the flame comes on and stays on. It works for me, good luck.
My problem is sometimes the gas valve opens and the furnace fires...sometimes the ignitor glows and nothing happens and it shuts down. I can’t figure out why it only opens sometimes.
I call the HVAC guy to replace my furnace motor blower ran good he came upstairs said that there is big problem need to replace the whole furnace I asked how much is that he said maybe 5- 10k guy said the the pressure of gas is to high reading 4.6 normal 3.5 they try to adjust the valve but failed to adjust they put red tagged they turn off my gas they said very dangerous to operate can cause fire .i said it's been doing this for 26 years and i call the HVAC guy before I bought this house said no problem. Could you please help me give some advice
Great video! Thanks so much! Question: Which connections did you attach the jump wires to on the transformer? The 24v connections (red & brown) or the Line Voltage In connections (black & white)? It's tough to tell from the video. Thx!
Matthew Marcus Hey Guy, the 24v side is where the alligator clamps go, if you don’t understand that, call the guy who does this everyday for a living. Or just look on the transformer it reads 24vac. Wow
carlos torres yes he was just displaying how to energize it to see if it is functional. Would not recommend this on a gas valve for any longer than that second, and I would recommend having Wc check at same time with your manometer so as soon as your 3.5 (nat. Gas) shows, or after second or two doesn’t show, kill disconnect.
These heating and cooling systems are p ing me off seems every time I turn around something is wrong! Right now my heater is calling for heat the induction motor is working the valve opens for a second burner ignites and walla flame goes out!!!! No heat but the induction motor keeps going and so does the blower motor. Gibson model gg9s060b12mp11a Code is 1 slow red flash every 2 seconds never amber Thanks for your help
Unless of course there is no gas entering the gas valve. In propane areas the tank may be empty due to a leak. Also make sure the ball valve on the gas line is in the open position.
Need some help. 14 years old furnace. Worked fine until about 2-3 weeks ago. It was not coming on, so I started checking. I had 24v at the time when the igniter was glowing but no flames. I wiggled the solenoid and it started working. My happiness was short lived, it stopped after a few days. I checked wires, etc. and again the 24v, all seemed good. I took the solenoid out and cleaned the inside under the coil, on the shaft. All seemed ok, so I put it back and unit started working again. For a week. Now its been dead. So I bought a new gas valve. Same part # and installed it today. I still have the 24v at the time the igniter is glowing, but still no flames. Gas is on, bill is paid, the 2nd floor unit and water heater also works just fine. I'm puzzled what could be the issue. I turned all other unit valves off (knob on the gas line) and tried, no luck. Unit is 16 years old but we are in SC so the heater isn't running a lot. Maybe about 2-3 months a year. So this 14 year old unit is about as much used as a 4 year old NH unit. What could be the issue ? I don't have an equipment to measure gas pressure, but what would cause the gas pressure to drop suddenly and not in a past 14years, and why would all other units on the same line work perfectly fine ? There is no cracks or bends in the gas line, nothing is changed since it was running fine. I put in a new igniter and flame sensor to make sure its all good, of course it did nothing. I also swapped the fan with the 2nd story unit, not because it was not working but because it was making a little bearing noise. I did that about a week ago when it was working and loved the quiet operation. We only use the 1st floor unit as heat rises and we keep the bedrooms door open. The 2nd floor unit ran very little in the past 14 years. What to do ? Please, I need help. In about 2 days it will drop to 23F here so I want to make sure we have heat.
You mentioned that if the hot surface ignitor doesn't begin to glow there's probably a different problem. My ignitor is NOT glowing but it tests good for continuity. Any ideas?
I have had this problem myself, where the igniter has continuity and dosen't glow. I replaced it anyway and it worked. Can't explain why but it may have something to do with when the voltage is sent. To be sure remove the wires/plug and take a voltage test when the unit is cycling.If you're getting the volts during the cycle, change the igniter.
Richard Umbluegray replace the igniter. It could still have a reading and not illuminate. That’s just the control board doing its job and the igniter failed.
Call your local preventive maintenance hvac Co. Tell them to do a tune up. Remove burner train and clean it thoroughly to remove all the build up of rust and carbon sediment blocking
Pay your employees more. Dont try to be the only one buying a house and driving brand new cars and going on vacation every 6 months. Dont be a slave driver.
Provide good quality, honest service, advertise and you should be fine. Customers rather deal with organized and honest small businesses when it comes to the having and hvac tech, electrician, plumbers , etc in their homes.
Daha iyi bir anlatım olamazdı. Anlatım yapan arkadaşa teşekkür etmek istiyorum. Emeğine sağlık.
The Super Cool Slide Rule is a great tool! Helps get those AC systems dialed in quick. You won't realize how much you need it until you use one. :)
Don't forget that as part of the initial self check (immediately after a call for heat R-W) the circuit board MUST see the contacts of the pressure switch to be in the open position. This ensures no one has jumpered the pressure switch to trick it should a blocked vent, etc. be the problem. Attaching a jumper across the pressure switch after the vent motor starts will allow one complete heating cycle but the board will prohibit a second cycle with the jumper attached. This prevents spillage and carbon monoxide issues that could lead to deaths.
Bloody hell use a u gauge so easy and simple. Connect it to the upstream test point and fire up your furnace. If there's perceivable movement. Then your gas is coming through. If not then time to buy a new gas valve done. You can check for ohms of resistance if you have a multimeter. Check you manufacturers instructions for specific range.
super good video explanation just fixed my problem following your expertise!!! thank's cant' wait for my super slide rule tool!!!!!!
My ignitor doesn't come on. I ohmed and continuity tested all the parts, checked ohms on gas valve also, all good. I'm stuck now. Also checked airflow in vents etc. Ignitor has continuity, gas valve coils have proper ohms. I jumped out thermal coupler temporarily, I checked thermostat and that has continuity. I don't think the gas valve is bad. I could check the gas valve coils again. I don't think I have a bad gas valve. Again no ignitor glow. PS great work.
How are you hearing gas flow when you have no gas connected to the valve?
Wondering the same thing...
1) make sure propane tank is not empty.
2) make sure natural gas is present and valve is turned on.
3) use manometer to check input and output ports on the gas valve.
4) check the voltage across the terminals.
5) If the voltage is present but the output port on the gas valve is showing 0 WC.....GAS VALVE IS BAD!!!!
Before you do all these steps, do this instead, do a hard reset on the furnace, then start up the furnace to request heat, wait for ignitor starts glowing, as soon it glows, start tapping the gas valve with the screwdriver handle gently, check if the flame comes on and stays on. It works for me, good luck.
Question is how often do you have to pound it to be effective because if you have to do it for every time it calls for heat you've got a problem!
My problem is sometimes the gas valve opens and the furnace fires...sometimes the ignitor glows and nothing happens and it shuts down. I can’t figure out why it only opens sometimes.
I call the HVAC guy to replace my furnace motor blower ran good he came upstairs said that there is big problem need to replace the whole furnace I asked how much is that he said maybe 5- 10k guy said the the pressure of gas is to high reading 4.6 normal 3.5 they try to adjust the valve but failed to adjust they put red tagged they turn off my gas they said very dangerous to operate can cause fire .i said it's been doing this for 26 years and i call the HVAC guy before I bought this house said no problem. Could you please help me give some advice
If I remove the wires from the gas valve, should I test the voltage on the terminals of the gas valve or the wires themselves? Thank you.
The wires themselves.
GOOD VIDEO !!!
Great video! Thanks so much!
Question: Which connections did you attach the jump wires to on the transformer? The 24v connections (red & brown) or the Line Voltage In connections (black & white)? It's tough to tell from the video. Thx!
Matthew Marcus Hey Guy, the 24v side is where the alligator clamps go, if you don’t understand that, call the guy who does this everyday for a living. Or just look on the transformer it reads 24vac. Wow
Guess you figured it out by now or your scattered between here and callamazOo
Thx!
Hi I have a question my ignitor glow 3 times then my gas flow and the heat starts. Y is that pls help
Great video, just a question , to make a gas valve test, what you did is, put 24 volts directly to the gas valve for a second ?
carlos torres yes he was just displaying how to energize it to see if it is functional. Would not recommend this on a gas valve for any longer than that second, and I would recommend having Wc check at same time with your manometer so as soon as your 3.5 (nat. Gas) shows, or after second or two doesn’t show, kill disconnect.
These heating and cooling systems are p ing me off seems every time I turn around something is wrong!
Right now my heater is calling for heat the induction motor is working the valve opens for a second burner ignites and walla flame goes out!!!!
No heat but the induction motor keeps going and so does the blower motor.
Gibson model gg9s060b12mp11a
Code is 1 slow red flash every 2 seconds never amber
Thanks for your help
Unless of course there is no gas entering the gas valve. In propane areas the tank may be empty due to a leak. Also make sure the ball valve on the gas line is in the open position.
great stuff.
GOOD VIDEO.
Need some help. 14 years old furnace. Worked fine until about 2-3 weeks ago. It was not coming on, so I started checking. I had 24v at the time when the igniter was glowing but no flames.
I wiggled the solenoid and it started working. My happiness was short lived, it stopped after a few days. I checked wires, etc. and again the 24v, all seemed good. I took the solenoid out and cleaned the inside under the coil, on the shaft. All seemed ok, so I put it back and unit started working again. For a week. Now its been dead. So I bought a new gas valve. Same part # and installed it today. I still have the 24v at the time the igniter is glowing, but still no flames. Gas is on, bill is paid, the 2nd floor unit and water heater also works just fine. I'm puzzled what could be the issue.
I turned all other unit valves off (knob on the gas line) and tried, no luck. Unit is 16 years old but we are in SC so the heater isn't running a lot. Maybe about 2-3 months a year. So this 14 year old unit is about as much used as a 4 year old NH unit. What could be the issue ? I don't have an equipment to measure gas pressure, but what would cause the gas pressure to drop suddenly and not in a past 14years, and why would all other units on the same line work perfectly fine ? There is no cracks or bends in the gas line, nothing is changed since it was running fine. I put in a new igniter and flame sensor to make sure its all good, of course it did nothing. I also swapped the fan with the 2nd story unit, not because it was not working but because it was making a little bearing noise. I did that about a week ago when it was working and loved the quiet operation. We only use the 1st floor unit as heat rises and we keep the bedrooms door open. The 2nd floor unit ran very little in the past 14 years. What to do ? Please, I need help. In about 2 days it will drop to 23F here so I want to make sure we have heat.
What ended up being the problem? I'm in the same boat!
Is 23.5v sufficient to turn on valve to allow gas to pass through???
Thanks for clip
very nice video , can you direct me in how i can buy one of those calculators im in mexico thanks1
Thank you Alex. the slide rule calculator can be purchased at supercoolsliderule.com. International shipping is included.
You mentioned that if the hot surface ignitor doesn't begin to glow there's probably a different problem. My ignitor is NOT glowing but it tests good for continuity. Any ideas?
I have had this problem myself, where the igniter has continuity and dosen't glow. I replaced it anyway and it worked. Can't explain why but it may have something to do with when the voltage is sent. To be sure remove the wires/plug and take a voltage test when the unit is cycling.If you're getting the volts during the cycle, change the igniter.
Richard Umbluegray replace the igniter. It could still have a reading and not illuminate. That’s just the control board doing its job and the igniter failed.
what if just one of the burners lights up and the other two don't (on my furnace)
Is there something I can check on furnace?
Thanks
Call your local preventive maintenance hvac Co. Tell them to do a tune up. Remove burner train and clean it thoroughly to remove all the build up of rust and carbon sediment blocking
love your work. Any tips on how to get more business. Big companies are killing mom and pop.
Pay your employees more. Dont try to be the only one buying a house and driving brand new cars and going on vacation every 6 months. Dont be a slave driver.
Provide good quality, honest service, advertise and you should be fine. Customers rather deal with organized and honest small businesses when it comes to the having and hvac tech, electrician, plumbers , etc in their homes.
Did you connect the blue wires to the low voltage side of the transformer?
If your gas valve is a 24v gas valve make sure you feed it only the low voltage
Exactly.
A professional should be contacted if only one burner lights. He or she will pull apart the assembly and clean it.
24V Matthew
What to do if the gas keep coming out and we you trunk off the gas when it stops
Joel Wells
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