That "hall Sensor" looked like it only had two wires, that would make it a current transformer. A hall effect sensor actually reads the magnetic field and has active electronics to do so. A current transformer type sensor is just a ferrite and a winding so a small voltage is produced when the current flows. Looking at the inside of the unit I don't think you could use a hall effect sensor as they dont like external magnetic fields and there is a pretty large one nearby ;-) Hall effect sensors were designed to be an alternative to the traditional shunt for DC current measurement. That is a lot of amps you pulled there, how many big rigs delivered your battery bank ?? WOW I would love to know the power you pulled out of your bank for that test. I was glad to see that you were monitoring battery and cable temperatures during the test. I bet a lot of people have cooked their banks after buying ultra high power inverters. Nice fair test of the practical limitations on inverters. 15KW is a lot of power !
Hi there. I currently have about 600 usable AH of battery storage in 24 volts. The hall effect sensor is unique and is not very accurate but it does give you a good idea of what you are using.
@@GenetrySolar You only need a rough guide that's true. I have an active sensor that my bank positive passes through. It has two pots for calibration and only needed a tiny tweak to match my calibrated Fluke clamp meter. I have a 48v bank using these ---------------- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALED-CALCIUM-XPLORER-220-AH-LEISURE-BATTERY-HUGE-POWER-STORE-/112499483662?hash=item1a317de40e I have 360AH usable but I only discharge to 40% max. I live in the UK and have 3KW of poly panels and only have to switch to mains charging once a week. I lucked out with the inverter. My father used to work for the military and got me a very sexy inverter. 5KW continuous and can go to 15KW for 15 minutes. Its not exactly ideal though........ The battery's have those horrible round posts so I roughed them up with a file, coated them with flux and then soldered them on. I only hope I don't have to disconnect them any time soon :-D The inverter is great aside from the fact it uses powerlock connectors and they are hard work but very solid once locked in. In the UK we just have a single phase, neutral and earth at 230V. I run all my IT kit from the system and as my two racks pull about 3.5KW all the time it saves me a fortune as electricity is very expensive here. I have to pay 14.40 pence per KWH. So two hours would cost me about £1.80. In US $ that is $2.35 at todays exchange rate. The inverter is a hybrid type and I am on a high daily rate and from 02:00 to 06:30 its 6.2p. The panels do very well in the crappy weather we always have and I only top up the bank from the mains once and sometimes twice a week. The bank charges up in about 4 hours and is programed to only pull from the grid during the cheap rate hours. The inverter only has an on/off switch. Stats and programing is all done over RS432 using a proprietary protocol but the software is great. It runs as a service on my domain controller and logs twice a second. A really nice feature is automatic power factor correction. The biggest problem is that you need Superman to lift the thing up. I have a protective earth/ground that terminates at the inverter and goes to an earth rod and the house supply connects via a galvanic isolator. From what I have seen you have two live feeds at 120v on each leg and centre tap for the neutral. Are the two 120v legs at 60Hz 120 degrees apart or does a single phase feed those pole transformers and then the two 120v and neutral centre tap then go into the building. Do you have to ground the centre tap in the home or are they tied at the substation as it is in the UK ? How do you provide a protective ground via the inverter ? I will have to find a decent TH-cam video that explains how the US grid is wired. Any recommendations ? That is a very juicy inverter you have there. From looking at it on the video I am a little dubious about its lifespan. Does it have an auto bypass if the inverter fails ? Sorry about all the questions, I hate not knowing how something functions ! Take care my friend and don't boil those batteries. I suspect you are like me and looking forward to when the lithium batteries go down to a more realistic price. Happy inverting :-)
Cool man good test! Good to know that they are taking more steps to continue to improve the unit... hope they put some heavier duty cable inside to handle the amperage from the transformer!
That is a bottleneck for sure. They are using several windings and then soldering them into a 10 AWG wire. Not ideal but should handle short lengths of 10KW+.
Help with this problem. I have a similar inverter installed, I use a 48v POWERJACK with 600 amp batteries installed and it works great. I use a pool pump, drill, lights, blender and everything at the same time, it overheats a little and turns on the fan from time to time and it never turns off using that equipment - It must be Because I only use the pool pump and other equipment often for a few minutes nothing more. The problem comes when I turn on the microwave and the pool pump is also on. The inverter turns off 2 seconds after the microwave starts and the alarm light doesn't even stay on; The Inverter just shuts down and I have to turn it off for a few minutes to start it up again. If all other equipment consumes more than a microwave; Why does it only turn off when I turn on the microwave and not with the other equipment? Thank you for the help that you may be able to provide.
It's actually 24 volts so around 550 amps. 550 divided by 2 for each set of cables. Each battery can sustain 60 amps per hour safe and then heat up after that. I was over that limit so they started getting warm
I have mine and I am pretty happy with it, the only thing I kept having problems with was the system getting warm and shutting down, I had to do a few things so that it would not be getting warm, after that problem was solved I was running the hole house with no problem, washer, dryer, 4 computers, and a few lights at the same time with no problem, I also have an electric small stove but i do not turn it on at the same time as the dryer, I dont want to over do it, I also urn a small air conditioner in my office at home, but I also do not run it while I have the dryer on, I just have to be careful on those things. I am off grid with 32 golf cart batteries, but I do run rest of the air conditioners at home with the grid since those require lots of electricity, so I leave those for the grid in the summer only, in the winter I am off grid completely.
Hey wondering how to contact you? One question with powerjacks big split phase inverters for input pass through capability and charging are imputing 120v or 240v power?
Unfortunately I started with a 24v system not 48v and it is too hard to go backwards and make it 48v which of course would be so much better both in cost of charge controllers and capacity. That said I had 6kw surges and noticed my charge controllers would not react fast enough causing massive temporary drains from the battery even though I've got overkill quantity of solar panels able to take it. So.....along came upstream installation of ultracapacitors in banks each capable of 1900 amps. This completely eliminated the surges from the battery bank allowing the charge controllers to catch up. I also use powerstream power supplies tapped upstream into grid from my MBT. So with grid disconnected from MBT but powerstream power supplies still connected I have yet another buffer for rain and temp loads. DC voltages are stepped with priority of solar first and powrstream supplies second. If can and have also run a dirty generator into these same power supplies no prob's. I do like your upgraded power jack into Genetry solar stuff allot. In my case I am purchasing 5 pieces of 24v to 220vac split phase (2020 model) and will section off much of my loads as I am using this for industrial sewing machines and steam/vacuum tables mostly and I'm unfortunately stuck at 24v. If you are curious I can tell you some simple mod's I've done to the Intronics charge controllers making them more reliable.
Indeed. However I do not think it will sustain anything above 10k. I wish I could test it further but my batteries were not happy with me. Still. Great output for being so cheap.
When the built in instrument exaggerates the same 20% as the one in my PowerJack the maximum output power in the video was around 8000W - a little more than 50% of the advertised rating. From my experience this their short term limit where first the red light goes on and the inverter switches off a few seconds after. Better use a clamp meter in the output cable than the internal instrument.
Great video. Could you clarify how you connected the 24v from your battery bank to the inverter? I received mine yesterday and the owner's manual shows the old, longer model of 15Kw unit. Like the one in your video, my newer one (2018) has two pairs of DC input connection poles, (2 black / 2 red). Do they each require 24v. from different sources? Are they wired in parallel? What would happen if I looped a cable from one hot pole to the second one? Would that be redundant to the internal wiring? Or, do I need two, separate, 24 volt sources to get full power from my inverter. My battery bank is four L-16, 6 volt batteries, wired in series, (=24 volts DC). At 6 volts, each battery provides 370 amp hours @ 20 amps.
They are parallel inside with a bus bar using this inverter at its rated max requires huge wires to carry the DC current so it gives you more room for wires. If you just want to jump them you can as well.
No I will get two of them and run with more with three big battery banks for six day non stop. And that will show me if two 15000 watt converters will give me what I wont and mit need for my needs. And I thank you for this video. Or if you find a better one let me know please. Thank You.
Ага,купи.тільки дивись щоб дім не спалив. LF 3000 включив 1,3 квт обігрівач і перші секунди я отримав вибух і інвертор загорівся.... думай. Можу дати фото як інвертор згорів.
just did the math and it seems your central AC uses 3500 watts, i checked mine and its about 2500 watts with handler and compressor. . . just curios would a 6000 watt model start my ac or your ac. . . i guess what im really asking is much bigger does it need to be to run my central ac, I was considering getting an all in one mpp 5048gk 5000w high freq inverter but not sure if it will start my ac, so know i am looking at the power jacks
Estoy súper sorprendido con la calidad de estos productos. Lo único que deberían mejorar es el cambio de inversor a modo cargador. Estos inversores cumplen lo que prometen
Experiment is flawed in that you ran 2 out of phase 110/120's through the same amp probe (or hall sensor as you like to call it). The 2 will cancel each other out due to the reverse to each other's EMF. The sensor is measuring the field of flux around the wire which is created when current is passing through the conductor/wire. Since these are out of phase by approx 180 degrees. the 2 fields will cancel each other out. You would need 2 amp probe sensor each with a meter then add the 2 together at any given point in time to produce a true amp draw at 240 volts. It's basic electricity. Also, at 13,500 watts @ 24 volts the amp draw would be around 550A...and 4/0 wire is only good for 260A max depending on the type wire. So you are creating an enormous amount of resistance in the wire which further reduces voltage. All in all, you wouldn't want to do that experiment too many times without burning things. Even the lugs being used are probably not capable of that ampacity requirement. I'm well aware that many who purchase an inverter with this much capacity are, to some degree, 'show-boating', or showing off. The size of this type inverter would be more suited for industrial use rather than residential. Perhaps someone with a very large home might consider such a huge inverter. And in that case, stepping up the battery voltage would be preferrable. Which begs the question what is the highest input rated inverter that Power Jack makes? 60 volt would be better. As you know, as the system's battery voltage gets above 48, the amount of equipment available is more difficult to find. It might be better to go with several smaller incremental inverters wired to various portions of the home than to go with one huge one like this. And more reliable as when one goes out you still have power elsewhere.
Does anyone know what the battery volt switch does? Is goes from 0 -9 I believe 0 and 9 do not produce a setting. . So what ones 1-8 do? Drives me crazy not knowing what a setting does. Thanks
Wow getting so many free inverters you are lucky well I'm lucky with some batteries and solar panels I'm getting about 5.6kwh in lithium batteries but cant use it
I have a 2000w Power Jack inverter that I'm in process of hooking up. The output jack port has me confused. Its a strange configuration and didn't come with cables and manual doesn't say whats to needed to buy. Help please I'm stuck.
Single-Phase 120/240V~AC/3-W = Equal currents applied across both "legs" of service, minus the "unbalanced" neutral currents being transferred from the loads back to the energy source i.e. generator/alternator or transformer winding; being that either 120V line is only serving half of the total 240V winding, with the neutral connection being 'center-tapped' half-way on the 240V winding, thereby splitting the 240V winding into two separate 120V windings... The current measurements remain constant throughout the circuit, although the unbalanced neutral currents may or may not represent full current or amperage values based upon what currents do not cancel out between both lines. Example: L1 = 25A, L2 = 35A N = 10A ... Line-1 is carrying a 25 ampere load, whereas line-2 is carrying a 35 ampere load... because both 120 volt windings are connected together on a common-neutral connection, 25 amperes of current will be cancelled out at the neutral connection. For this reason, only 10 amperes of unbalanced current will be seen on the neutral conductor at the neutral connection between the two halves of the 240-volt winding. Because of this, at no time will the level of current as represented at any part of this circuit will appear summed up on any one of the individual lines, with the exception of non-linear neutral currents, as such appear at multiple harmonics of the line frequency, of which won't cancel out at the neutral connection on the mid-point of the 240-volt winding... for this reason, on systems supplying non-linear loads, (such as appliances or electronic apparatus with high-speed switch-mode power supplies) may typically employ over-sized or even parallel neutral conductors to compensate for any overloading due to harmonic non-linear neutral currents. 3-phase wye or star connected electrical systems AKA 240/415 or 230/400 volts (European), (Canadian) 347/600, (American) 277/480, 127/220 (Latin America), or 120/208 volts; 3-phase; 4-wire systems behave very similarly to the frequently utilized single-phase 120/240 volt systems for domestic power applications in north America, with the configuration of three separate equivalent windings that are conndected on one end together to make a neutral connection and is also solidly grounded to maintain a reference voltage of "0", and the voltage readings across any two of the line connections shall be approximately 1.732X the nominal line voltage across neutral/ground and any one of the three line voltages. 3-phase 3 wire ungrounded Delta connected systems do not use a neutral and are ungrounded for the main purpose of larger industrial power distribution schemes, or situations that require more reliability or fail-safe operation, Delta configured transformer windings are connected end-to-end at the end of each phase... as an ungrounded Delta system will continue to operate effectively in the event that only one of its three phases becomes unintentionally grounded... typically, ground-fault sensors and alarms are utilized on each phase of such systems to detect ground-faults... Ungrounded delta systems are typically grounded by capacitance through their connected load(s) and load neutrals are derived from the secondary winding(s) of the connected transformer(s). The secondary windings of such transformers are typically configured Wye or Star...
I have a siginner inverter(12kw) running my entire house for around 2 months, except the Central A/C, my battery bank is able to handle 72kW at 48Vdc, one time my clothes dryer, washer machine, microwave, water heater, computers led lights were on, then inverter went of overload I was thinking on buy one of your inverter for the cental A/C(2.5Ton, 8.79kW) and maybe the microwave , but on the web there's a lot of version wich one do you recommend
Hey bud I checked out your website and am considering the powerjack, what do you recommend for a 3.5 kw solar array. I have a really good sized 48 v battery bank would the 10k be enough or would I need this one??
Also any good recommendation for a mppt solar charger right now I'm using the EP ever but it's only good for 24 volt and can only run 4 panels off it and not my full 12
Please head to Makeskyblueusa.com. you can use thr code Genetry10 to get 10 percent off some really good charge controllers. As for thr invertrr it would all depend on what your actual needs are as power jack inverters are typically good for 50 percent of the advertised loads
Where Do You Get Your Batteries, I'm Told That I Would Need A 12v 1000AH At Least To Run Some Of My House, And I'm Finding That The Batteries Cost More Then The Power Inverters, You Would Think It Would Be The Other Way Around Because You Will Have To Buy More Batteries.
As I explained in the video I ran both 120 volt wires through the same hall sensor . The inverter outputs 120 volts on each of the 2 legs. The second leg, which is still 120 volts is read on the 240 volt meter. It is a carry over from the non U.S models. To get 240 volts you simply combine the two legs. Central air is only 240 volts in the sense that you have 2 legs that are 180 degrees out of phase to equal 240 volts. The inverter does not output 240 volts. Only 120 X 2.
OTGVlog , 240 volts used in the US is a single phase in US homes. To get 120VAC, the 240VAC coming into a home goes thru a center tapped transformer on the pole or ground mounted transformer. The 240VAC is a single phase and not two phases that are 180° out of phase. The two 120VAC legs are only 120VAC to the center tap and only thru a center tap to each of the hot legs. They also measure 120VAC to ground as the Neutral Center Tapped Transformer is grounded. To get 240, you just do not use the center tap. That is why many of the inverters say that you can use either the 240V or 2 120V legs but not both as they do not use the proper wiring. The same applies to many of the 120VAC inverters where the Line and Neutral are both hots to Earth ( Ground ) . If both of the 120VAC outputs of this unit are fed to the meter transformer ( Current Transformer ) then you would get a false reading. Only a single leg should be fed to a meter transformer. That is why 3 phase units use 3 separate current transformers to feed one meter or even 4 of them if the three phase is in a Star pattern and the center tap is used.
AC amps, is about double what a dryer would pull... should only be pulling 22 amps running... your video showed 44 amps. Watts was correct, but your hall sensor positioning, is doubling the amp reading.
AC amps on these inverters has never been accurate. I've seen them swing all over. Powerjack is aware of the issue. The Amps is calculated from the CPU.
@S Messer I understand your frustrations. I really do. I did everything I could to help you and you were said some pretty harsh shit. I can take it to a point. I do take pride in my work and I try to do everything I can for people with power jack inverters because I was once where you are now so I do understand. They are not perfect but they are on the road to being better. I have been upfront and honest with all the work I do. I have no reason to be anything other. My reputation would be horrible if inverters coming out of my warehouse were all problematic. I am just trying to help and I don't like being told I fucked them over when I spent so much time making it right. In the end I just do what powerjack tells me as they are the boss.
@S Messer I'm not mad. I just don't like being bashed is all. I am used to getting heat from everyone. This is the internet. I will take a look at it soon and hopefully you got the refuns
@@GenetrySolar LiFePO4 batteries have a very similar voltage as lead acid. I would think it would be just fine, especially if you had overdischarge and overcurrent protection on your BMS.
That manufacturer claims 60,000 lots of surge capacity. So the 15000 watts in fiery if they're being honest, it should be a continuous rating. I'm giving us a power transformer his to Royal it's certainly more efficient than the Stacked iron core Transformers and other inverters. To run this properly you'll really need a room full of forklift batteries.
What a joke, my 8KW inverter won't even power a 5W LED lamp without the alarm going off. they sent parts and still won't work. now want a refurbished or new one as replacement and they won't even exchange it. it might cost more for a US version, but I am out $700 and over a year in time. and still nothing. what a POS. I don't know how they are still in business since I am getting the royal screw. David form Power jack maybe you will read this and deal with my situation.
the reseller via ebay was power jack. David was with powerjack as using their e-mail and I had an email from the engineers in chinese. because they strung me along with 6 week parts it went past ebay time line for support. they must knwo that and that is why i get screwed and they keep my money. thanks
Thanks for the video
I looked at many inverter videos before and by far you are the best.
13:53. That's impressive. I'm anxious to test out the 15kw and 30kw inverters sitting in my shop.
Very impressive, Thanks for the video!
That "hall Sensor" looked like it only had two wires, that would make it a current transformer. A hall effect sensor actually reads the magnetic field and has active electronics to do so. A current transformer type sensor is just a ferrite and a winding so a small voltage is produced when the current flows.
Looking at the inside of the unit I don't think you could use a hall effect sensor as they dont like external magnetic fields and there is a pretty large one nearby ;-) Hall effect sensors were designed to be an alternative to the traditional shunt for DC current measurement.
That is a lot of amps you pulled there, how many big rigs delivered your battery bank ?? WOW I would love to know the power you pulled out of your bank for that test. I was glad to see that you were monitoring battery and cable temperatures during the test. I bet a lot of people have cooked their banks after buying ultra high power inverters.
Nice fair test of the practical limitations on inverters. 15KW is a lot of power !
Hi there. I currently have about 600 usable AH of battery storage in 24 volts.
The hall effect sensor is unique and is not very accurate but it does give you a good idea of what you are using.
@@GenetrySolar You only need a rough guide that's true. I have an active sensor that my bank positive passes through. It has two pots for calibration and only needed a tiny tweak to match my calibrated Fluke clamp meter. I have a 48v bank using these ----------------
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALED-CALCIUM-XPLORER-220-AH-LEISURE-BATTERY-HUGE-POWER-STORE-/112499483662?hash=item1a317de40e
I have 360AH usable but I only discharge to 40% max. I live in the UK and have 3KW of poly panels and only have to switch to mains charging once a week. I lucked out with the inverter. My father used to work for the military and got me a very sexy inverter. 5KW continuous and can go to 15KW for 15 minutes. Its not exactly ideal though........
The battery's have those horrible round posts so I roughed them up with a file, coated them with flux and then soldered them on. I only hope I don't have to disconnect them any time soon :-D The inverter is great aside from the fact it uses powerlock connectors and they are hard work but very solid once locked in.
In the UK we just have a single phase, neutral and earth at 230V. I run all my IT kit from the system and as my two racks pull about 3.5KW all the time it saves me a fortune as electricity is very expensive here. I have to pay 14.40 pence per KWH. So two hours would cost me about £1.80. In US $ that is $2.35 at todays exchange rate. The inverter is a hybrid type and I am on a high daily rate and from 02:00 to 06:30 its 6.2p. The panels do very well in the crappy weather we always have and I only top up the bank from the mains once and sometimes twice a week. The bank charges up in about 4 hours and is programed to only pull from the grid during the cheap rate hours. The inverter only has an on/off switch. Stats and programing is all done over RS432 using a proprietary protocol but the software is great. It runs as a service on my domain controller and logs twice a second. A really nice feature is automatic power factor correction. The biggest problem is that you need Superman to lift the thing up.
I have a protective earth/ground that terminates at the inverter and goes to an earth rod and the house supply connects via a galvanic isolator. From what I have seen you have two live feeds at 120v on each leg and centre tap for the neutral. Are the two 120v legs at 60Hz 120 degrees apart or does a single phase feed those pole transformers and then the two 120v and neutral centre tap then go into the building. Do you have to ground the centre tap in the home or are they tied at the substation as it is in the UK ? How do you provide a protective ground via the inverter ? I will have to find a decent TH-cam video that explains how the US grid is wired. Any recommendations ?
That is a very juicy inverter you have there. From looking at it on the video I am a little dubious about its lifespan. Does it have an auto bypass if the inverter fails ? Sorry about all the questions, I hate not knowing how something functions !
Take care my friend and don't boil those batteries. I suspect you are like me and looking forward to when the lithium batteries go down to a more realistic price. Happy inverting :-)
Cool man good test! Good to know that they are taking more steps to continue to improve the unit... hope they put some heavier duty cable inside to handle the amperage from the transformer!
That is a bottleneck for sure. They are using several windings and then soldering them into a 10 AWG wire. Not ideal but should handle short lengths of 10KW+.
Help with this problem.
I have a similar inverter installed, I use a 48v POWERJACK with 600 amp batteries installed and it works great.
I use a pool pump, drill, lights, blender and everything at the same time, it overheats a little and turns on the fan from time to time and it never turns off using that equipment - It must be Because I only use the pool pump and other equipment often for a few minutes nothing more.
The problem comes when I turn on the microwave and the pool pump is also on. The inverter turns off 2 seconds after the microwave starts and the alarm light doesn't even stay on; The Inverter just shuts down and I have to turn it off for a few minutes to start it up again. If all other equipment consumes more than a microwave; Why does it only turn off when I turn on the microwave and not with the other equipment?
Thank you for the help that you may be able to provide.
that must be one epic battery bank to provide over 1000 DC amps to run all that. very cool. looks like the inverter didnt even break a sweat
It's actually 24 volts so around 550 amps. 550 divided by 2 for each set of cables. Each battery can sustain 60 amps per hour safe and then heat up after that. I was over that limit so they started getting warm
I am not sure how the surge would do. I don't think it will take 60k surge. But it did start my central air.
I have mine and I am pretty happy with it, the only thing I kept having problems with was the system getting warm and shutting down, I had to do a few things so that it would not be getting warm, after that problem was solved I was running the hole house with no problem, washer, dryer, 4 computers, and a few lights at the same time with no problem, I also have an electric small stove but i do not turn it on at the same time as the dryer, I dont want to over do it, I also urn a small air conditioner in my office at home, but I also do not run it while I have the dryer on, I just have to be careful on those things. I am off grid with 32 golf cart batteries, but I do run rest of the air conditioners at home with the grid since those require lots of electricity, so I leave those for the grid in the summer only, in the winter I am off grid completely.
You have a very large battery bank that really helps out alot. Could you do a video for me? I would love to see your setup
Sure thing, here it is: th-cam.com/video/FkS5sX6c0AU/w-d-xo.html
Hey wondering how to contact you? One question with powerjacks big split phase inverters for input pass through capability and charging are imputing 120v or 240v power?
Unfortunately I started with a 24v system not 48v and it is too hard to go backwards and make it 48v which of course would be so much better both in cost of charge controllers and capacity. That said I had 6kw surges and noticed my charge controllers would not react fast enough causing massive temporary drains from the battery even though I've got overkill quantity of solar panels able to take it. So.....along came upstream installation of ultracapacitors in banks each capable of 1900 amps. This completely eliminated the surges from the battery bank allowing the charge controllers to catch up. I also use powerstream power supplies tapped upstream into grid from my MBT. So with grid disconnected from MBT but powerstream power supplies still connected I have yet another buffer for rain and temp loads. DC voltages are stepped with priority of solar first and powrstream supplies second. If can and have also run a dirty generator into these same power supplies no prob's. I do like your upgraded power jack into Genetry solar stuff allot. In my case I am purchasing 5 pieces of 24v to 220vac split phase (2020 model) and will section off much of my loads as I am using this for industrial sewing machines and steam/vacuum tables mostly and I'm unfortunately stuck at 24v. If you are curious I can tell you some simple mod's I've done to the Intronics charge controllers making them more reliable.
It would be nice to show a link to the product for purchase and specs.
That's a powerful inverter you got there. Any update on how its performing so far?
That thing can handle a a whole lot of power holy crap wow that's crazy
Indeed. However I do not think it will sustain anything above 10k. I wish I could test it further but my batteries were not happy with me. Still. Great output for being so cheap.
When the built in instrument exaggerates the same 20% as the one in my PowerJack the maximum output power in the video was around 8000W - a little more than 50% of the advertised rating. From my experience this their short term limit where first the red light goes on and the inverter switches off a few seconds after. Better use a clamp meter in the output cable than the internal instrument.
Great video. Could you clarify how you connected the 24v from your battery bank to the inverter? I received mine yesterday and the owner's manual shows the old, longer model of 15Kw unit. Like the one in your video, my newer one (2018) has two pairs of DC input connection poles, (2 black / 2 red). Do they each require 24v. from different sources? Are they wired in parallel? What would happen if I looped a cable from one hot pole to the second one? Would that be redundant to the internal wiring? Or, do I need two, separate, 24 volt sources to get full power from my inverter.
My battery bank is four L-16, 6 volt batteries, wired in series, (=24 volts DC). At 6 volts, each battery provides 370 amp hours @ 20 amps.
They are parallel inside with a bus bar using this inverter at its rated max requires huge wires to carry the DC current so it gives you more room for wires. If you just want to jump them you can as well.
No I will get two of them and run with more with three big battery banks for six day non stop. And that will show me if two 15000 watt converters will give me what I wont and mit need for my needs. And I thank you for this video. Or if you find a better one let me know please. Thank You.
Wow....!.... This unit is a must buy.!
Ага,купи.тільки дивись щоб дім не спалив. LF 3000 включив 1,3 квт обігрівач і перші секунди я отримав вибух і інвертор загорівся.... думай. Можу дати фото як інвертор згорів.
Are these better now or do they have more features do you think this is worth it
just did the math and it seems your central AC uses 3500 watts, i checked mine and its about 2500 watts with handler and compressor. . . just curios would a 6000 watt model start my ac or your ac. . . i guess what im really asking is much bigger does it need to be to run my central ac, I was considering getting an all in one mpp 5048gk 5000w high freq inverter but not sure if it will start my ac, so know i am looking at the power jacks
Estoy súper sorprendido con la calidad de estos productos. Lo único que deberían mejorar es el cambio de inversor a modo cargador.
Estos inversores cumplen lo que prometen
Hi, how do you charge the batteries? is there any video that also shows how to charge the batteries? Thank you
Plz first cal me and phone no OK I wait thanks
I want to know if I can run a machine shop / wood shop off grid with one if these . Like welder at 190 max amps , and lathe , mill . Etc
impressive 👍👍
Experiment is flawed in that you ran 2 out of phase 110/120's through the same amp probe (or hall sensor as you like to call it). The 2 will cancel each other out due to the reverse to each other's EMF. The sensor is measuring the field of flux around the wire which is created when current is passing through the conductor/wire. Since these are out of phase by approx 180 degrees. the 2 fields will cancel each other out. You would need 2 amp probe sensor each with a meter then add the 2 together at any given point in time to produce a true amp draw at 240 volts. It's basic electricity.
Also, at 13,500 watts @ 24 volts the amp draw would be around 550A...and 4/0 wire is only good for 260A max depending on the type wire. So you are creating an enormous amount of resistance in the wire which further reduces voltage. All in all, you wouldn't want to do that experiment too many times without burning things. Even the lugs being used are probably not capable of that ampacity requirement.
I'm well aware that many who purchase an inverter with this much capacity are, to some degree, 'show-boating', or showing off. The size of this type inverter would be more suited for industrial use rather than residential. Perhaps someone with a very large home might consider such a huge inverter. And in that case, stepping up the battery voltage would be preferrable. Which begs the question what is the highest input rated inverter that Power Jack makes? 60 volt would be better. As you know, as the system's battery voltage gets above 48, the amount of equipment available is more difficult to find. It might be better to go with several smaller incremental inverters wired to various portions of the home than to go with one huge one like this. And more reliable as when one goes out you still have power elsewhere.
Hi, how do you charge the batteries? is there any video that also shows how to charge the batteries? Thank you
Does anyone know what the battery volt switch does? Is goes from 0 -9 I believe 0 and 9 do not produce a setting. . So what ones 1-8 do? Drives me crazy not knowing what a setting does.
Thanks
so you think this 9 version inverter could power my central air conditioner(8.79kW continuos, 48kW surge)
great test nicely done
Have you tried the 110 volt charger? I have not seen anyone try it.
how are you doing dryer and central air with 120
I have an inverter like that. I would like to know if you have the mosfet board and the lf driver
Nice inverter never seen nothing like it makes you look small how much will that cost?
great video could you show how to properly wire it in to a pannell for offgrid.
Wow getting so many free inverters you are lucky well I'm lucky with some batteries and solar panels I'm getting about 5.6kwh in lithium batteries but cant use it
Sorta free. They go back to Powerjack when I'm done.
What is PowerJack working on for 2019 release in the 24 volt input high wattage category that would make me want to wait for it?
I have a 2000w Power Jack inverter that I'm in process of hooking up. The output jack port has me confused. Its a strange configuration and didn't come with cables and manual doesn't say whats to needed to buy. Help please I'm stuck.
Hi Julie. If you contact me at 833 Genetry I can probably help you.
May we see your battery bank, please ?
HOW BIG IS YOUR SYSTEM /THE SOLAR MAN
Single-Phase 120/240V~AC/3-W = Equal currents applied across both "legs" of service, minus the "unbalanced" neutral currents being transferred from the loads back to the energy source i.e. generator/alternator or transformer winding; being that either 120V line is only serving half of the total 240V winding, with the neutral connection being 'center-tapped' half-way on the 240V winding, thereby splitting the 240V winding into two separate 120V windings... The current measurements remain constant throughout the circuit, although the unbalanced neutral currents may or may not represent full current or amperage values based upon what currents do not cancel out between both lines.
Example: L1 = 25A, L2 = 35A N = 10A ... Line-1 is carrying a 25 ampere load, whereas line-2 is carrying a 35 ampere load... because both 120 volt windings are connected together on a common-neutral connection, 25 amperes of current will be cancelled out at the neutral connection. For this reason, only 10 amperes of unbalanced current will be seen on the neutral conductor at the neutral connection between the two halves of the 240-volt winding.
Because of this, at no time will the level of current as represented at any part of this circuit will appear summed up on any one of the individual lines, with the exception of non-linear neutral currents, as such appear at multiple harmonics of the line frequency, of which won't cancel out at the neutral connection on the mid-point of the 240-volt winding... for this reason, on systems supplying non-linear loads, (such as appliances or electronic apparatus with high-speed switch-mode power supplies) may typically employ over-sized or even parallel neutral conductors to compensate for any overloading due to harmonic non-linear neutral currents.
3-phase wye or star connected electrical systems AKA 240/415 or 230/400 volts (European), (Canadian) 347/600, (American) 277/480, 127/220 (Latin America), or 120/208 volts; 3-phase; 4-wire systems behave very similarly to the frequently utilized single-phase 120/240 volt systems for domestic power applications in north America, with the configuration of three separate equivalent windings that are conndected on one end together to make a neutral connection and is also solidly grounded to maintain a reference voltage of "0", and the voltage readings across any two of the line connections shall be approximately 1.732X the nominal line voltage across neutral/ground and any one of the three line voltages.
3-phase 3 wire ungrounded Delta connected systems do not use a neutral and are ungrounded for the main purpose of larger industrial power distribution schemes, or situations that require more reliability or fail-safe operation, Delta configured transformer windings are connected end-to-end at the end of each phase... as an ungrounded Delta system will continue to operate effectively in the event that only one of its three phases becomes unintentionally grounded... typically, ground-fault sensors and alarms are utilized on each phase of such systems to detect ground-faults... Ungrounded delta systems are typically grounded by capacitance through their connected load(s) and load neutrals are derived from the secondary winding(s) of the connected transformer(s). The secondary windings of such transformers are typically configured Wye or Star...
He showed in a another video that these are 180 degree units, not center tapped like normal. Weird I know, but should work fine.
I have a siginner inverter(12kw) running my entire house for around 2 months, except the Central A/C, my battery bank is able to handle 72kW at 48Vdc, one time my clothes dryer, washer machine, microwave, water heater, computers led lights were on, then inverter went of overload
I was thinking on buy one of your inverter for the cental A/C(2.5Ton, 8.79kW) and maybe the microwave , but on the web there's a lot of version wich one do you recommend
Hi there. Maybe wait for version 9 coming in the next few months. It will be a powerful unit.
@@GenetrySolar from a model(15K-LF-SP-48V/240V+ATS) how do you know which version is. What is the way to know the version
@@GenetrySolar what do you mean powerful unit, the one you tested 15kW
is not a powerful unit, what is going to be differente
Hey bud I checked out your website and am considering the powerjack, what do you recommend for a 3.5 kw solar array. I have a really good sized 48 v battery bank would the 10k be enough or would I need this one??
Also any good recommendation for a mppt solar charger right now I'm using the EP ever but it's only good for 24 volt and can only run 4 panels off it and not my full 12
Please head to Makeskyblueusa.com. you can use thr code Genetry10 to get 10 percent off some really good charge controllers.
As for thr invertrr it would all depend on what your actual needs are as power jack inverters are typically good for 50 percent of the advertised loads
How Many Batteries Is It Going To Take To Run A Whole House 24/7 full Time.
For me I can usually get about 16 hours of average use off the grid with no charging. But I only take my batteries to 80 percent.
Where Do You Get Your Batteries, I'm Told That I Would Need A 12v 1000AH At Least To Run Some Of My House, And I'm Finding That The Batteries Cost More Then The Power Inverters, You Would Think It Would Be The Other Way Around Because You Will Have To Buy More Batteries.
If you are trying to run your whole house I recommed 48 volts to start. Also a good 3kw of solar to start.
The fan did not apply.Is it nosy.
4AWG CU Wire has a current carrying capacity of 80 Amperes according to the National Electrical Code.
It can carry more, not safely
4/0 gauge also known as 0000 gauge wire is different than 4 awg as for the cable running to his house he was well below the 80 Amps running at 220v
Do they make a 48 volt version?
Why was it showing the load on the 120V side and not the 240V side. Your central air should be on the 240V circuit and not 120V. Same with the dryer.
As I explained in the video I ran both 120 volt wires through the same hall sensor .
The inverter outputs 120 volts on each of the 2 legs. The second leg, which is still 120 volts is read on the 240 volt meter. It is a carry over from the non U.S models.
To get 240 volts you simply combine the two legs. Central air is only 240 volts in the sense that you have 2 legs that are 180 degrees out of phase to equal 240 volts.
The inverter does not output 240 volts. Only 120 X 2.
OTGVlog , 240 volts used in the US is a single phase in US homes. To get 120VAC, the 240VAC coming into a home goes thru a center tapped transformer on the pole or ground mounted transformer. The 240VAC is a single phase and not two phases that are 180° out of phase. The two 120VAC legs are only 120VAC to the center tap and only thru a center tap to each of the hot legs. They also measure 120VAC to ground as the Neutral Center Tapped Transformer is grounded. To get 240, you just do not use the center tap. That is why many of the inverters say that you can use either the 240V or 2 120V legs but not both as they do not use the proper wiring. The same applies to many of the 120VAC inverters where the Line and Neutral are both hots to Earth ( Ground ) . If both of the 120VAC outputs of this unit are fed to the meter transformer ( Current Transformer ) then you would get a false reading. Only a single leg should be fed to a meter transformer. That is why 3 phase units use 3 separate current transformers to feed one meter or even 4 of them if the three phase is in a Star pattern and the center tap is used.
@@gravelydon7072 I am uploading a video for you to help explain.
@@GenetrySolar What's the link to your video? I'd love to watch it...
What IS the difference between 8.0 ATS and 9.0 ATS?
Nothing right now. Same exact tech.
Did you manage to "Either or chunt or clamp meter" to find out what was the max amperage extracted from your battery bank? thanks in advance...
I currently do not have a hall sensor on the battery bank. I have one planned.
@@GenetrySolar Yeah, I want efficiency numbers
@@kingrpriddick typcial efficiency is 75 to 90 percent. I know that is a wide range but it depends on the transformer.
Thank you for the Reply. I sent a question on the PowerTankInverter web site. Am I confused that those go to you, also?
Yes sir
Hey thus a year later how well has it done
Before few seconds i watched other video with power jack 15000w which could max 5000w produce.., your is different
AC amps, is about double what a dryer would pull... should only be pulling 22 amps running... your video showed 44 amps. Watts was correct, but your hall sensor positioning, is doubling the amp reading.
AC amps on these inverters has never been accurate. I've seen them swing all over. Powerjack is aware of the issue. The Amps is calculated from the CPU.
@S Messer I understand your frustrations. I really do. I did everything I could to help you and you were said some pretty harsh shit. I can take it to a point.
I do take pride in my work and I try to do everything I can for people with power jack inverters because I was once where you are now so I do understand.
They are not perfect but they are on the road to being better. I have been upfront and honest with all the work I do. I have no reason to be anything other. My reputation would be horrible if inverters coming out of my warehouse were all problematic.
I am just trying to help and I don't like being told I fucked them over when I spent so much time making it right.
In the end I just do what powerjack tells me as they are the boss.
@S Messer I'm not mad. I just don't like being bashed is all. I am used to getting heat from everyone. This is the internet. I will take a look at it soon and hopefully you got the refuns
@S Messer I have several on order here.
@S Messer watch my latest video. I go over some things about this.
Do you have an email for PowerJack since they don't answer my emails through their website?
Same here. . Their contact is really bad.
No load current draw?
Can window air conditioners be ran at night on this ?
Yes how long depends on your battery bank.
Comprou via internet?
The resetable fuses..
What amperage are they.
That would depend on which inverter you have but they go all the way to 80 amps.
@@GenetrySolar
The 15kw you used in the video
80 amps AC per 120 volt leg. So 160 Amps AC total.
@@GenetrySolar
Thank you
I want to see 48 volt 9000watt load test I have one on lithium
Yes I been trying to see load test before I by my batterys make my decision on what I see thanks
how many batterys in your bank
Can someone tell me if there is some way to connect li-ion / lifepo4 battery to this inverter without damaging? (with a bms obvious)
There is no way. You need a special charger and powerjack is not adding this till the 2019 version.
@@GenetrySolar LiFePO4 batteries have a very similar voltage as lead acid. I would think it would be just fine, especially if you had overdischarge and overcurrent protection on your BMS.
That manufacturer claims 60,000 lots of surge capacity. So the 15000 watts in fiery if they're being honest, it should be a continuous rating. I'm giving us a power transformer his to Royal it's certainly more efficient than the Stacked iron core Transformers and other inverters. To run this properly you'll really need a room full of forklift batteries.
Now if I had a larger battery bank and added a extra inverter i would be ok well wait I have a 1200sft home
What battery you used
VMAX slr200
How many battery
I need a Power Jack Inverter 15 KW. 24 Volt input, how much price US Dollars. I'm From India Live in Kuwait Arabic country
WOW UR KILLING THE BATTERIES AND WHATS THE INPUT VOLTAGE FOR the inverter?
24 volts
OTGVlog hmmm does it have battery Charger in the inverter itself
Cio Dokop yes, however I do not use it.
OTGVlog well?? how do you use it ??
Cio Dokop you connect a breaker from the grid to the input side of the inverter to charge the battery bank
That doughnut looking torrid transformer measures current in the A/C wire. It's not a haul effect device. Get the 30KW 60 volt unit and test that.
hey you sell this stuff
Onde comprou?
ខ្ញុំចូលចិត្តមើលកម្មវិធីទាំងនេះដើម្បីបានពត៌មានល្អៗ
What a joke, my 8KW inverter won't even power a 5W LED lamp without the alarm going off. they sent parts and still won't work. now want a refurbished or new one as replacement and they won't even exchange it. it might cost more for a US version, but I am out $700 and over a year in time. and still nothing. what a POS. I don't know how they are still in business since I am getting the royal screw. David form Power jack maybe you will read this and deal with my situation.
Who is the seller? I know you mentioned David, but who is the seller on eBay?
the reseller via ebay was power jack. David was with powerjack as using their e-mail and I had an email from the engineers in chinese. because they strung me along with 6 week parts it went past ebay time line for support. they must knwo that and that is why i get screwed and they keep my money. thanks
Donnez quelques vidéos en français svp French svp
I wont this item what is prize
deja de hablar y hace el test