Something I learned from my Dad. Whenever you remove a Tire always place it flat under the car or trailer. This way if it falls it will stop on the tire. This might save your life .
That is very nice of you Rick to give the power station away.😊 As far as how you pronounce your words...... That's what I find interesting about watching different TH-camrs. YOU be YOU!!!! 😂😅
Nice video. Many RVers should take time to inspect the suspension along with tires when traveling extensively. On our trip to Alaska 2022 we seen many rigs at repair shops getting the leaf spring hanger Welded and reinforced, along with leaf springs replaced from breaking. Thanks for the very nice video on how to do repairs. Problems never happen in convenient places!
You could drill out the brackets that are welded to the frame and install a correct size sleeve that has the i.d. that fits the bolt. It would be a DYI without welding.
Glad that will help. If you ever acquire a home type mig welder, you could weldr the spacer to the bracket from the inside, which is what I've done. Just a few welds will hold as when the bolt is tightened, it will be all secure.
@@gonagain I wouldn't do that. Those holes are splined for a reason. You might as well let them go for now then do like you said and start all over again.
Another fine how-to video with lots of information. People often forget to check the suspension out when doing the normal trailer maintenance. Thanks for the reminder.
Hoss, That leaf spring clamp that holds the leaves together should be on the forward part of the spring. So when you brake, if you have breaks, the leaves up front will be held together. Under braking torque the rear part of the spring is pushed together naturally and does not need a clamp. Without a clamp on the front stack of leaves the top spring can bend too much. This is an important consideration -- otherwise they would not have gone to the expense of using a clamp.
Thanks for that information. I looked to see if they were marked "Front and Rear' but they aren't. I need to work on them anyway to fix the hangers so I'll swap them around.
You would think the manufacturer or at least eTrailer would have marked the springs for proper orientation. As a public service you might inform eTrailer about this problem.@@gonagain
@user-yo1pk4ky4k , WOW!! U caught the smallest but very important thing about the leaf spring & U fully explained in detail. I appreciate U. I just now found this wonderful man's channel. I googled "what's best, shocks or springs on a utility trailer" & this man's channel showed up. I'm showing my husband this. He's a mechanic & he'll send this video to his mechanic buddies . God bless U🕊🙏
Great video on keeping up and fixing your own problems. I love the diy people !!! I’m thinking, after seeing this, I might go to the 225/14 tires on my trailer also.
I have been working on my own suspensions since the early '70s. I always grease the bolts, shackles,and spring eyes. Helps extend their life and eases disassembly. Thanks for a good vid.
Love your how-to/maintenance videos. Great reminders that if we plan on using something, we need to check it prior to use and after we get through using it.
Good thing you spotted that wear mark on your tire. Hopefully the other side went just as smooth for you. Sounds like a pretty amazing giveaway with Bluetti
When going to shop for the new welded hanger brackets, consider increasing the thickness by 1/16" and making them an inch+/_ taller to give more clearance between tire and fender.
Rick, isn’t that is the spring you replaced on the road maybe it was not the same as originally on the trailer. Since you’re coupler is the same age as the rest of the trailer maybe also take a look at it.
Good find and good job getting it fixed, it might give it a little rougher ride for awhile till the break in , so you might make sure everything is extra tucked and tightened 😊
Ever since back in the early 70s, one of the first things I did when I got a 4x4 (I've had 35-40, 1955-2000s), if they didn't already have it, I would put an overload spring on. Or, sometimes take a spring off another set and add it to the springs on that vehicle. Never had a problem bottoming out, even when making 4-foot jumps. Not a trailer, but still is slung off the ground. Breaker bar or a cheater bar (steel pipe to go over handle). When working under a vehicle or trailer as you are, even though it's propped up very well, I always lay the tire on the ground under the frame so if the vehicle or trailer fell off, there would be a few inches for my body left between ground and frame. If you weren't changing axle it could go under the hub giving even more of a safety factor.
Good upgrade! I’m sure you have lots of miles on your trailer and this should make it like new again. Good job! Working on the cold ground is never easy. You deserve some pie and hot coffee!
Great video Rick also remember about tire pressure. The more air the hard the tire and more bounce but to soft can ruin the sidewall of the tire . Pressure up and down per the load by the tire manufacturer. Get south I noticed even Linda didn't come out and say hello 😂
Another plus with running taller tires is less RPM (per mile lol). This also slows down the revolution of the bearings on the hub, runs cooler, longer life.
Just replaced my spring bolts with wet bolts and replaced the equalizer. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Lol. Keep the videos coming. 👍
I switched my 12' conversion camper axle from the stock 4" drop axle with no brakes to a zero drop axle with brakes. The tires are 32" BFG K02 all terrain. The setup works well on the highway and rough dirt roads. The only negative is that I think the leverage of the taller tires overpower the trailer brakes. The brakes work, but I was expecting more stopping power.
We didn't even have brakes until fairly recently and the difference going down mountain passes is huge! As long as they help control the trailer, that's all you need, because you don't want them to actually lock up the tires.
I had all the same problems on my double axle. I used a "wet bolt and shackle" system on replacement. That allows you to lubricate the bolts that pivot in the spring. Also, upon getting wider tires, the sidewall clearance to the tailer was almost nil and I had to go back to the standard width for proper clearance. Trailer MFRs just stuff what ever they have that is cheapest to build with.
Good thing you noticed that Rick ! Good job replacing the leafs ! I actually myself would not worry about changing those hangers. Or you could just shim them ! Thanks for sharing.😁👍
I'd highly recommend switching the whole axle assembly for a torsion axle. After you own a torsion axle trailer, you'll NEVER want a spring trailer again. They ride so, so smooth and almost zero bouncing. I have an off-road trailer with 33" x 10.5s and it rides like it's floating on a cloud with the combined big tires and torsion axle. Will also keep you from shacking your trailer to pieces.
A power station is a must for me. I have a Goal Zero 6000X which has about 2 1/2 times the watt hour capacity of your Bluetti. It’s very easy math to calculate that a 2048 watt hour Bluettti used to power a 1500 watt space heater will give you about an hour of run time considering also that you are charging power tool batteries. The cold temps will also likely shorten your time as well.
I sure appreciate you putting up videos like this. I will be looking at all of that in the near future because you made me aware of what can go wrong with my small trailer and how to remedy it.
I have a 5x8 and a 6x20 landscaping trailers both of em used . When I bought the bigger one I bought spare leaf spring and accessories and sure enough I came home one day to notice that I need to replace what parts had broken and so I now keep spare underbody parts in the toolbox of my Duramax truck. I eventually wanna convert the 5x8 to a 6x10 lol and add a dual axle w one axle having caliper brakes and a Buffy suspension for off roaring . The Australians have a great suspension system for off roading trailers . Have truck & trailer to travel America .
That was great! So interesting and I learned a lot. There's beauty to me in mechanics. it's so gratifying when you figure it out and actually fix something. Thanks and happy holidays to you and Linda!
Thanks for taking us along on this project. Interesting how much more clearance it gave you. I didn't expect that big of gap difference from the old to the new. I'm sure you have a reason so I'll ask. Ever considered a timbren, axle-free, independent suspension setup? Pros/Cons for a Timbren on your trailer? Wore out vs worn out, it's all the same. Infact, I love how you say maysure instead of measure. You and your wife being you is why we follow you guys. Don't ever change because of complaints or comments about verbage. The Lord of the Pies speaks the way he wants to.
Thank you! The reason we don't switch to a torsion arm axle is the difficulty of getting them repaired while traveling, because parts are not available off the shelf. I was going to switch over to them, but the suspension shop talked me out of it because of that.
rick when i made the trailers on the fenders the gap in between the top fo the tire to the underside of the fender is the same a 4x4 block, . people that use there trailers like for boats use a 2" gap for the lower profile , but your 75% of road so the height is need here, 4" is what i would do, . some say it funny looking for the gap , but its whats needed offroad!for the dent in the frame , in the old days, we would notch out the frame were its hitting, cutting the dent area out and welding back in a half of a like 2" pipe and weld it back in . we use to weld a notch in cars/trucks that were lower and removed the leaf springs and replaced it with air bags to lower the car/truck down, reversing the springs are going make that trailer ride about 5-8" taller, NO GOOD, THE CORRECT WAY IS TO NOTCH IT, OR TRAVEL SLOWER OFFROAD?
Wow. How awesome that Bluetti would do that. We could totally benefit from a power station that beefy. Yup that’s quite the mark on the tire. Guess it’s good that you had that screw in your fender in that direction or you may not have known there was a problem until it was a huge issue. Dang that was a huge gain in height. That’s wild. Nice repair job!
Also just to put this out there, infrared thermometers are cheap these days. It's good to have one on hand just to aim at your hubs,etc. soon after stopping, can help locate and prevent bearing problems. Just because one area may be warmer than another doesn't mean it's necessarily bad,yet extremely higher could give a heads up on potential problem. This has nothing to do with springs, but just putting it out there
If you look at the design of most trucks they mount a rubber bumper for the control arms or in your case axle to hit and could be easily bolted into your frame just above the axle housing. The main purpose of a bump stop is to serve as a cushion when the suspension finally bottoms out. That way, there’s always a bit of protection to prevent metal from hitting metal or, in some cases, prevent the control arm or axle from traveling too far. In either case, bump stops help avoid damage to the suspension or the chassis. I am sure you can look up some that will work for your trailer. Your tire wear pattern looks like your tires are underinflated. Look up tire wear patterns and you will see the difference. Good luck, Mike
I did look into bump stops and researched them. I even called the various manufacturers, but none would fit. I had even ordered a set and had to return them. Unfortunately, they're all made for heavier axles than mine!
Am surprised with so many different types that they make, but you can't win them all, lol. The repairs that you have done look very good and should give you all the clearance you need. @@gonagain
I researched bump stops for 3 days and even called the various manufacturers, but none would fit. I had even ordered a set and had to return them. They're all made for heavier axles.
FYI. To repair the bolt holes. Cut a 2x2x1/4. Drill bolt holes bolt 2x2 to the spring hanger and weld. Should be easy to repair. Just a thought from a welder.
That's a real good idea. I was thinking of drilling out the holes and press fitting a bushing in there. He doesn't have a welder. But he has a nice floor jack and safety jacks. What's funny about these DIY videos is you just want to jump in and do it your way! Next time I'm in Montana, I gotta check out his tractor supply store.
Thanks for the video. I have the same exact problem with my cargo trailer camper. I can not flip the axle as it would no longer fit in my garage. Great channel!
Another great video. I hope you and Linda had a great Thanksgiving. Looking forward to the Bluetti giveaway. That would certainly come in handy. Be safe and warm.
Thanks for the video (& Bluetti announcement). I travel several times a year between Anchorage and Missoula with a trailer… I’ll be checking it out ASAP! Thank you.
Just an idea. I have a drop axle on my 6 x 12. Was way too low. Installed an under and over kit for $70. Huge difference. Lifted it 4 1/4" and took out 90% of the hard bouncing it use to have. Rides smoother. That was almost 4 years ago and it's still working great. Only thing is I had a lot of clearance between the tire and fender. Made a custom piece that blends in with the fender.
Good job, ive replaced several of those on deferent trailers over the years, it will be nice to see where you all are going next, be safe and have a great day
Another great video! We had a spring break recently on a trip (Big PIA BTW) so suggest taking one of those old ones and stash it somewhere! Will definitely save you when you are way back in the boonies somewhere. Also, you missed the "Check those brakes / grease those bearings" step while you were there. Just a suggestion since you have the tire off and the getting is good... Happy holidays all!
Thank you Rick for another great maintenance video!! I appreciate you doing them as I have the same rig thanks to your videos. I don't have nearly the mileage put on her yet but more information for the toolbox. Happy Holidays to you and your family. 🐾🙏🏻✌🏻🤙🏻
The size of the tire remained constant, so if the fender went up 2 inches relative to the tire, the frame also went up 2 inches, unless I'm missing something.
I just noticed when we went from the stock 14" rims to 15" we have the same rims you do! That being said, we had already flipped our axle last year since I'm anticipating adding an undercarriage water tank (still learning about how to do that while mitigating the cons in doing that).
@@gonagain Yes, I'm finding that out, coincidentally. Of course, my wallet is also hip to that option...it's just not enthusiastic about that option, LOL.
Did you use unlock or equivalent repl nuts? No replacement bolts with grease fittings? Drill and wire/cutter pins those bolts! Or, a nylock nut on the end threads to keep from losing nut, also protects end threads if it needs to come apart again.
Good job recognizing something wasn't right. Many trailer owners don't pay attention to small things like that and end up having major issues down the road. I can't remember if I've asked this before but where did you get your rims? I'm thinking of doing an upgrade on my rig and some nice looking rims would top it off. Of course it depends on the price some rims can be outrageous! It would be nice if an aftermarket car or truck rim would work but I think the offset of those rims disqualifies them.
I bought the rims through Amazon. They are still 15", but are a little wider which allows for the next size tire, which is the 225-75-R15. They came with tires installed, which I had to wear out before installing the bigger ones!
When you replace the hangers, use wet bolts, (Greasable) bronze bushings, heavy duty shackles and you most likely will not have to do it over again for a very long time.. As long as you keep them lubed. The whole problem could have been avoided from the factory, but they sell them dry, with nylon bushings. You've probably been squeaking for a long time. I redid mine, and it only has less than 3000 miles on it. When I replaced mine, one plastic bushing was MISSING! I also "flipped" mine and got 5.25" more clearance. Mine still hasn't even hit the road yet but hopefully very soon.
Good video and a comment, on my previous cargo trailer I took several times a year to our hunt camp "Northern Canada" I always came home with it loaded with firewood which caused me many spring issues not so much in wear but to much weight and spring flex. Being in the heavy truck repair back then a mechanic suggested installing dock bumpers like the ones on the rear of a trailer to my frame above the axle. Not saying this was a fix for heavy loads but cured the bottoming out against the frame and broken springs.
I did look into bump stops and researched them. I even called the various manufacturers, but none would fit. I had even ordered a set and had to return them. Unfortunately, they're all made for heavier axles than mine.
I’m not sure if it goes without saying that the weight you add to the interior improvements, do effect the suspension. I wonder if the trailer welder might have longer brackets to give you even more clearance.
Thanks again for the road tips. Little do we realize how many times those springs bounce up and down. MERRy Christmas to you from NOVA SCOTIA CANADA.:)
Outstanding, Rick! And as soon as I saw the amount of arch in your new leaf packs, I knew you were going to get a satisfying increase in ride height. And as a bonus, the larger gap between the tire and the underside of the fender is more consistent all the way through the fender from front to rear, which is another win. Curious what the spring rate #s are between the old and the new leaf packs.
I first thought your springs were sprung, being on the east side of the country, I am considering a tandem axle trailer. We don't have near as much back country as you do out west, and if I get out there, I don't think I'll be as adventurous as y'all
Tandem axle tows better and you have the safety of having two tires on a side in case of a blow out. I replace my tires long before they are worn out because of that. Merry Christmas!
i wanted one of those breaker bars but they wanted like 90 bucks for a name brand. i got a dewalt 1\2" battery operated hammer things for 129.00 it will all be good till the battery is dead
Someone had changed springs before you did, shackle bolts are put in from the outside nuts are put on the inside. The reason I know is I worked in the factory where your trailer was built
Yep, I've broken one spring and bent the other. This trailer was built at the factory back east (Maine?) and you'll notice that the skin is both glued and screwed, unlike the newer ones.
Something I learned from my Dad. Whenever you remove a Tire always place it flat under the car or trailer. This way if it falls it will stop on the tire. This might save your life .
You have a smart dad!
Thank You @@paulanderson388
That is very nice of you Rick to give the power station away.😊 As far as how you pronounce your words...... That's what I find interesting about watching different TH-camrs. YOU be YOU!!!! 😂😅
I've always admired folks that can "get the job done" with the minimum of fuss - you qualify!
Nice video. Many RVers should take time to inspect the suspension along with tires when traveling extensively. On our trip to Alaska 2022 we seen many rigs at repair shops getting the leaf spring hanger Welded and reinforced, along with leaf springs replaced from breaking. Thanks for the very nice video on how to do repairs. Problems never happen in convenient places!
You could drill out the brackets that are welded to the frame and install a correct size sleeve that has the i.d. that fits the bolt. It would be a DYI without welding.
Not a good idea, those brackets take a lot more punishment than you think, and to have a catastrophic failure there is very bad.
I never had any problems with this type of repair. Always check the condition of the brackets before repairs.
I'm going to be doing that, thanks.
Glad that will help. If you ever acquire a home type mig welder, you could weldr the spacer to the bracket from the inside, which is what I've done. Just a few welds will hold as when the bolt is tightened, it will be all secure.
@@gonagain I wouldn't do that. Those holes are splined for a reason. You might as well let them go for now then do like you said and start all over again.
Another fine how-to video with lots of information. People often forget to check the suspension out when doing the normal trailer maintenance. Thanks for the reminder.
Hoss, That leaf spring clamp that holds the leaves together should be on the forward part of the spring. So when you brake, if you have breaks, the leaves up front will be held together. Under braking torque the rear part of the spring is pushed together naturally and does not need a clamp. Without a clamp on the front stack of leaves the top spring can bend too much. This is an important consideration -- otherwise they would not have gone to the expense of using a clamp.
Thanks for that information. I looked to see if they were marked "Front and Rear' but they aren't. I need to work on them anyway to fix the hangers so I'll swap them around.
I'm glad you caught that. I just turned the right side around and saw that the left side was correct.
You would think the manufacturer or at least eTrailer would have marked the springs for proper orientation. As a public service you might inform eTrailer about this problem.@@gonagain
That's a good idea, I'll be doing that.
@user-yo1pk4ky4k , WOW!! U caught the smallest but very important thing about the leaf spring & U fully explained in detail. I appreciate U. I just now found this wonderful man's channel. I googled "what's best, shocks or springs on a utility trailer" & this man's channel showed up. I'm showing my husband this. He's a mechanic & he'll send this video to his mechanic buddies . God bless U🕊🙏
It was my honor to meet you in person. Keep the dream alive. 🤙
It was a pleasure to meet you, Dave! Thanks for saying hello.
The gonagain sticker is proudly displayed on my vehicle too. Thank you very much for your kindness
Squared-away presentation. Concise, easy to follow. Good video techniques and excellent audio. Thanks for explsnation!
30 years in roofing here, you said it right.
Floor creeks you fish a crick.
Thank you!
Great video on keeping up and fixing your own problems. I love the diy people !!!
I’m thinking, after seeing this, I might go to the 225/14 tires on my trailer also.
I have been working on my own suspensions since the early '70s.
I always grease the bolts, shackles,and spring eyes. Helps extend their life and eases disassembly. Thanks for a good vid.
Love your how-to/maintenance videos. Great reminders that if we plan on using something, we need to check it prior to use and after we get through using it.
He could have went with longer shekels or as I did add more leaf springs, could have also used a overload springs.
You have a great inquisitive mind... it makes all the difference in what you can accomplish :) Very nice learning video! Thank you!
Good thing you spotted that wear mark on your tire. Hopefully the other side went just as smooth for you. Sounds like a pretty amazing giveaway with Bluetti
Good luck on the drawing!
Great preventative maintenance. Thanks fro sharing Rick. Happy travels
When going to shop for the new welded hanger brackets, consider increasing the thickness by 1/16" and making them an inch+/_ taller to give more clearance between tire and fender.
Rick, isn’t that is the spring you replaced on the road maybe it was not the same as originally on the trailer. Since you’re coupler is the same age as the rest of the trailer maybe also take a look at it.
i've actually replaced another spring since that time that was bent. Thanks, I'll replace that coupler!
Good find and good job getting it fixed, it might give it a little rougher ride for awhile till the break in , so you might make sure everything is extra tucked and tightened 😊
What a huge difference that made!
Ever since back in the early 70s, one of the first things I did when I got a 4x4 (I've had 35-40, 1955-2000s), if they didn't already have it, I would put an overload spring on. Or, sometimes take a spring off another set and add it to the springs on that vehicle. Never had a problem bottoming out, even when making 4-foot jumps. Not a trailer, but still is slung off the ground.
Breaker bar or a cheater bar (steel pipe to go over handle).
When working under a vehicle or trailer as you are, even though it's propped up very well, I always lay the tire on the ground under the frame so if the vehicle or trailer fell off, there would be a few inches for my body left between ground and frame. If you weren't changing axle it could go under the hub giving even more of a safety factor.
Good upgrade! I’m sure you have lots of miles on your trailer and this should make it like new again. Good job! Working on the cold ground is never easy. You deserve some pie and hot coffee!
I'll take you up on that. Merry Christmas!
I always watch the videos, and most times it's a learning and enjoyable viewing. Interesting every time.
Nice to hear the clicking of your torque wrench on those lug nuts
Great video Rick also remember about tire pressure. The more air the hard the tire and more bounce but to soft can ruin the sidewall of the tire . Pressure up and down per the load by the tire manufacturer. Get south I noticed even Linda didn't come out and say hello 😂
Hello Miles! Yeah, Arizona is sounding nice right about now. Funny that you mention it, because I just bought a new tire inflator this morning.
Hey to be fare you teased Linda about Crik and creek !!! 😂Just another incredible video for us all ! Thanks so very much 💥☺️
Another plus with running taller tires is less RPM (per mile lol). This also slows down the revolution of the bearings on the hub, runs cooler, longer life.
Enjoy all your updates and helpful fixes. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, Dee!
Huge improvement, that should be much safer.
Just replaced my spring bolts with wet bolts and replaced the equalizer. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Lol. Keep the videos coming. 👍
I switched my 12' conversion camper axle from the stock 4" drop axle with no brakes to a zero drop axle with brakes. The tires are 32" BFG K02 all terrain. The setup works well on the highway and rough dirt roads. The only negative is that I think the leverage of the taller tires overpower the trailer brakes. The brakes work, but I was expecting more stopping power.
We didn't even have brakes until fairly recently and the difference going down mountain passes is huge! As long as they help control the trailer, that's all you need, because you don't want them to actually lock up the tires.
@@gonagain yes, trailer brakes are definitely an aid to driving and safety!
Great video and information! Thank you!
Always educational inventive. Keep up the great work . my family to yours. You have a merry christmas
I had all the same problems on my double axle. I used a "wet bolt and shackle" system on replacement. That allows you to lubricate the bolts that pivot in the spring. Also, upon getting wider tires, the sidewall clearance to the tailer was almost nil and I had to go back to the standard width for proper clearance. Trailer MFRs just stuff what ever they have that is cheapest to build with.
Thanks for the tip on the wet bolt and shackle, I wasn't aware of it.
Good thing you noticed that Rick ! Good job replacing the leafs ! I actually myself would not worry about changing those hangers. Or you could just shim them ! Thanks for sharing.😁👍
Thanks, I'm ordering some sleeve stock.
I'd highly recommend switching the whole axle assembly for a torsion axle. After you own a torsion axle trailer, you'll NEVER want a spring trailer again. They ride so, so smooth and almost zero bouncing. I have an off-road trailer with 33" x 10.5s and it rides like it's floating on a cloud with the combined big tires and torsion axle. Will also keep you from shacking your trailer to pieces.
Thanks for the suggestion, AZBADBOY. Appreciate it.
A power station is a must for me. I have a Goal Zero 6000X which has about 2 1/2 times the watt hour capacity of your Bluetti. It’s very easy math to calculate that a 2048 watt hour Bluettti used to power a 1500 watt space heater will give you about an hour of run time considering also that you are charging power tool batteries. The cold temps will also likely shorten your time as well.
I sure appreciate you putting up videos like this. I will be looking at all of that in the near future because you made me aware of what can go wrong with my small trailer and how to remedy it.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the suspension/safety lesson Rick! Looking forward to a chance to win that Bluetti!
Good luck!
I have a 5x8 and a 6x20 landscaping trailers both of em used . When I bought the bigger one I bought spare leaf spring and accessories and sure enough I came home one day to notice that I need to replace what parts had broken and so I now keep spare underbody parts in the toolbox of my Duramax truck.
I eventually wanna convert the 5x8 to a 6x10 lol and add a dual axle w one axle having caliper brakes and a Buffy suspension for off roaring . The Australians have a great suspension system for off roading trailers .
Have truck & trailer to travel America .
That was great! So interesting and I learned a lot. There's beauty to me in mechanics. it's so gratifying when you figure it out and actually fix something. Thanks and happy holidays to you and Linda!
Merry Christmas to you too. I never thought of mechanics as being an artform, but is suppose it is!
Thanks for taking us along on this project. Interesting how much more clearance it gave you. I didn't expect that big of gap difference from the old to the new. I'm sure you have a reason so I'll ask. Ever considered a timbren, axle-free, independent suspension setup? Pros/Cons for a Timbren on your trailer? Wore out vs worn out, it's all the same. Infact, I love how you say maysure instead of measure. You and your wife being you is why we follow you guys. Don't ever change because of complaints or comments about verbage. The Lord of the Pies speaks the way he wants to.
Thank you! The reason we don't switch to a torsion arm axle is the difficulty of getting them repaired while traveling, because parts are not available off the shelf. I was going to switch over to them, but the suspension shop talked me out of it because of that.
rick when i made the trailers on the fenders the gap in between the top fo the tire to the underside of the fender is the same a 4x4 block, . people that use there trailers like for boats use a 2" gap for the lower profile , but your 75% of road so the height is need here, 4" is what i would do, . some say it funny looking for the gap , but its whats needed offroad!for the dent in the frame , in the old days, we would notch out the frame were its hitting, cutting the dent area out and welding back in a half of a like 2" pipe and weld it back in . we use to weld a notch in cars/trucks that were lower and removed the leaf springs and replaced it with air bags to lower the car/truck down, reversing the springs are going make that trailer ride about 5-8" taller, NO GOOD, THE CORRECT WAY IS TO NOTCH IT, OR TRAVEL SLOWER OFFROAD?
I hadn't thought of that modification. Maybe taller bracket hangers would do it too?
Excellent in not having a tire blow. Thanks!
Torsion axles, in my opinion are the way to go, especially on those rough roads!
Wow. How awesome that Bluetti would do that. We could totally benefit from a power station that beefy. Yup that’s quite the mark on the tire. Guess it’s good that you had that screw in your fender in that direction or you may not have known there was a problem until it was a huge issue. Dang that was a huge gain in height. That’s wild. Nice repair job!
Good luck on that Bluetti!
Also just to put this out there, infrared thermometers are cheap these days. It's good to have one on hand just to aim at your hubs,etc. soon after stopping, can help locate and prevent bearing problems. Just because one area may be warmer than another doesn't mean it's necessarily bad,yet extremely higher could give a heads up on potential problem. This has nothing to do with springs, but just putting it out there
Thanks!
Great info Gonagain!! Looking forward to the upcoming videos! ⚡️⚡️
It will probably drop down an inch once you replace the other side. But still worked. Thanks for the video
Thanks Rick, I will be checking ours too as it’s a high miler as well.
If you look at the design of most trucks they mount a rubber bumper for the control arms or in your case axle to hit and could be easily bolted into your frame just above the axle housing. The main purpose of a bump stop is to serve as a cushion when the suspension finally bottoms out. That way, there’s always a bit of protection to prevent metal from hitting metal or, in some cases, prevent the control arm or axle from traveling too far. In either case, bump stops help avoid damage to the suspension or the chassis. I am sure you can look up some that will work for your trailer. Your tire wear pattern looks like your tires are underinflated. Look up tire wear patterns and you will see the difference. Good luck, Mike
I did look into bump stops and researched them. I even called the various manufacturers, but none would fit. I had even ordered a set and had to return them. Unfortunately, they're all made for heavier axles than mine!
Am surprised with so many different types that they make, but you can't win them all, lol. The repairs that you have done look very good and should give you all the clearance you need. @@gonagain
I like Bluetti products. Well thought out design.
What about a bump stop on top of the axle?
I researched bump stops for 3 days and even called the various manufacturers, but none would fit. I had even ordered a set and had to return them. They're all made for heavier axles.
Okay Rick and Linda, I am setting here on go,waiting to learn how to win the power station
Stay tuned, William and good luck.
@@gonagain will do,tyvm
Always learning from you Rick. Congrats on the new bluetti 🤞🍀❣️
Be sure to watch Friday's video!!! 12/15/2023
@@gonagain thank you ❌⭕🙏❣️
FYI. To repair the bolt holes.
Cut a 2x2x1/4. Drill bolt holes bolt 2x2 to the spring hanger and weld. Should be easy to repair.
Just a thought from a welder.
That's a real good idea. I was thinking of drilling out the holes and press fitting a bushing in there. He doesn't have a welder. But he has a nice floor jack and safety jacks. What's funny about these DIY videos is you just want to jump in and do it your way! Next time I'm in Montana, I gotta check out his tractor supply store.
Thank you, BoscoDog!
Thanks for the video. I have the same exact problem with my cargo trailer camper. I can not flip the axle as it would no longer fit in my garage. Great channel!
A longer shackle in the rear will raise the frame some.
Great video, thank you. I learned a lot! 👍
Now I'll need to do this to my trailer.
Another great video. I hope you and Linda had a great Thanksgiving. Looking forward to the Bluetti giveaway. That would certainly come in handy. Be safe and warm.
Thanks for the very informative and valuable education! You're amazing! 🤙🤙
I need that Bluetti so bad!
Good luck!
Smart, good guy! Thank you. ❤
Thanks for the video (& Bluetti announcement). I travel several times a year between Anchorage and Missoula with a trailer… I’ll be checking it out ASAP! Thank you.
Glad this video was helpful. Safe travels to you on your drives to Anchorage.
Love and keep on truckin.
A lot of information and lessons there thank you
Great job, nicely done!
I am going to change out my dropped axle for a straight one like you've got.
Just an idea. I have a drop axle on my 6 x 12. Was way too low. Installed an under and over kit for $70. Huge difference. Lifted it 4 1/4" and took out 90% of the hard bouncing it use to have. Rides smoother. That was almost 4 years ago and it's still working great. Only thing is I had a lot of clearance between the tire and fender. Made a custom piece that blends in with the fender.
Good job, ive replaced several of those on deferent trailers over the years, it will be nice to see where you all are going next, be safe and have a great day
Another great video! We had a spring break recently on a trip (Big PIA BTW) so suggest taking one of those old ones and stash it somewhere! Will definitely save you when you are way back in the boonies somewhere. Also, you missed the "Check those brakes / grease those bearings" step while you were there. Just a suggestion since you have the tire off and the getting is good...
Happy holidays all!
Great idea. Merry Christmas!
Great job , Rick.Great video.
Thank you, Dennis. Merry Christmas!
Nice work handy dandy Thanks cool 😊
You betcha!
Thank you Rick for another great maintenance video!! I appreciate you doing them as I have the same rig thanks to your videos. I don't have nearly the mileage put on her yet but more information for the toolbox. Happy Holidays to you and your family. 🐾🙏🏻✌🏻🤙🏻
Same to you, Scott!
@@gonagain thank you.
Good information Rick. Thank you for sharing.
Like# 1,5?? - Woot - Did you consider using the next size bolt for the hangers? Drill out the oblong holes to true them for the larger size?
Make sure to measure the clearance between the ground and frame.
The size of the tire remained constant, so if the fender went up 2 inches relative to the tire, the frame also went up 2 inches, unless I'm missing something.
Yes, the frame went up 2" because of the increased arc of the new springs and the replacement of the worn out parts.
I just noticed when we went from the stock 14" rims to 15" we have the same rims you do! That being said, we had already flipped our axle last year since I'm anticipating adding an undercarriage water tank (still learning about how to do that while mitigating the cons in doing that).
You can have the water tank made to your specifications for a better fit.
@@gonagain Yes, I'm finding that out, coincidentally. Of course, my wallet is also hip to that option...it's just not enthusiastic about that option, LOL.
Did you use unlock or equivalent repl nuts?
No replacement bolts with grease fittings?
Drill and wire/cutter pins those bolts! Or, a nylock nut on the end threads to keep from losing nut, also protects end threads if it needs to come apart again.
Nice repair...
Good job recognizing something wasn't right. Many trailer owners don't pay attention to small things like that and end up having major issues down the road. I can't remember if I've asked this before but where did you get your rims? I'm thinking of doing an upgrade on my rig and some nice looking rims would top it off. Of course it depends on the price some rims can be outrageous! It would be nice if an aftermarket car or truck rim would work but I think the offset of those rims disqualifies them.
I bought the rims through Amazon. They are still 15", but are a little wider which allows for the next size tire, which is the 225-75-R15. They came with tires installed, which I had to wear out before installing the bigger ones!
Great info Rick!
I could be wrong but it looks the spring hangers are welded to that removable steel angle plate.
When you replace the hangers, use wet bolts, (Greasable) bronze bushings, heavy duty shackles and you most likely will not have to do it over again for a very long time.. As long as you keep them lubed. The whole problem could have been avoided from the factory, but they sell them dry, with nylon bushings. You've probably been squeaking for a long time. I redid mine, and it only has less than 3000 miles on it. When I replaced mine, one plastic bushing was MISSING! I also "flipped" mine and got 5.25" more clearance. Mine still hasn't even hit the road yet but hopefully very soon.
Thanks for the suggestion, Mark, that's a great idea.
i remember in that other video you used bailing wire for a temp fix. i think it was that same side you started with
I still have that piece of wood.
Great video. Very practical advice.. thanks.
Very welcome!
Good video and a comment, on my previous cargo trailer I took several times a year to our hunt camp "Northern Canada" I always came home with it loaded with firewood which caused me many spring issues not so much in wear but to much weight and spring flex. Being in the heavy truck repair back then a mechanic suggested installing dock bumpers like the ones on the rear of a trailer to my frame above the axle. Not saying this was a fix for heavy loads but cured the bottoming out against the frame and broken springs.
I did look into bump stops and researched them. I even called the various manufacturers, but none would fit. I had even ordered a set and had to return them. Unfortunately, they're all made for heavier axles than mine.
Very interesting video.
Love your videos!
Thank you! Appreciate hearing that!
Maybe a few spare bolts to take along, just in case?
It can't hurt to have them. I have a spare leafspring strapped up under the trailer.
13 degrees?? You guys need to come to Arizona ❤
Yes we do!!!
I’m not sure if it goes without saying that the weight you add to the interior improvements, do effect the suspension.
I wonder if the trailer welder might have longer brackets to give you even more clearance.
Maybe so and I'm sure they could fabricate something.
Thanks again for the road tips. Little do we realize how many times those springs bounce up and down. MERRy Christmas to you from NOVA SCOTIA CANADA.:)
Merry Christmas to you as well!
and they do make a trailer shock absorber..
Outstanding, Rick! And as soon as I saw the amount of arch in your new leaf packs, I knew you were going to get a satisfying increase in ride height. And as a bonus, the larger gap between the tire and the underside of the fender is more consistent all the way through the fender from front to rear, which is another win. Curious what the spring rate #s are between the old and the new leaf packs.
I think the old springs are 1700 lbs each and the new ones are 2000 lbs.
Thank you
I first thought your springs were sprung, being on the east side of the country, I am considering a tandem axle trailer. We don't have near as much back country as you do out west, and if I get out there, I don't think I'll be as adventurous as y'all
Tandem axle tows better and you have the safety of having two tires on a side in case of a blow out. I replace my tires long before they are worn out because of that. Merry Christmas!
@@gonagain as they used to say, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!" Merry Christmas to you and your family
I like saying crick but creek comes more naturally 🎉
Lol! Grandpa used to say that "Correct English is getting the idea across".
i wanted one of those breaker bars but they wanted like 90 bucks for a name brand. i got a dewalt 1\2" battery operated hammer things for 129.00 it will all be good till the battery is dead
That's a better way to go!
@@gonagain it will rip them 10" lag bolts in and out of the ground for tent stakes.
Someone had changed springs before you did, shackle bolts are put in from the outside nuts are put on the inside. The reason I know is I worked in the factory where your trailer was built
Yep, I've broken one spring and bent the other. This trailer was built at the factory back east (Maine?) and you'll notice that the skin is both glued and screwed, unlike the newer ones.