Thanks, 1:5 scale? No. I have enough trouble making parts small enough for the PrusaMK3 and the Ender3 at 1:8 scale. People are disappointed that I exclude the Prusa Mini. I will keep 1:5 scale in mind though.
Wow, great work! Im building this one as we speak. My winter project. 😍 but do you have some kind of calibration part? Like this bearing should fit snuggly inside this printed part or something? I have not gotten the bearings yet, but when i measure them with my caliper, it seems a little tight. 🤔
Good idea! I have been meaning to make a calibration test block. I will get started on that now. Prusa and Bambu printers tend to print this model perfectly out of the box. Creality printers tend to over extrude. I have a few parts adjusted for a looser fit in the requested parts listing but it is always better to tune your printer properly. I will have the test calibration print within 24 hours.
@@RockyTop_BC great. 😁 I have a cheap artillery hornet. I have not yet tuned extrusion miltiplier, so i had to use the parts you mentioned that are looser. Looking forward to be able to calibrate the printer with the tool you make. 😁👍🏻
Done, The test block fits a 5x11x4 bearing. It also test the gap in the ball joints. 0 is standard. A properly calibrated printer will print a ball joint that will at least break free at 0. For less accurate printers the looser -0.1 and -0.2 ball joints are available in the Morrigan Aftermarket shop. It seams that at least half of the people printing the Thumper model used an Ender3. It is more of a challenge but it is very doable. It is not nearly a challenge on a Prusa or Bambu printer.
@@3D_printer_guy I remember people building things out of balsa wood, copper tubing, and a few rubber bands on a Sunday afternoon. ... Those were good times. I am just doing what I can to contribute.
The Joker version used an expensive hard to find 3S battery. In testing it melts the plastic gears. I upgraded to the Cheater transmission only to find that the Fusion SE 1800kv on 2S out performed the Joker. I could run the Fusion SE 1800kv on 3S but 2S was already at the limit of control with 2S. The solid axles cause too much twist on acceleration. Instead of alternating the Morrigan I am designing two new models that can handle the power and speed. And altogether the 3s battery fit, I never properly secured the battery by design.
@@RockyTop_BC Thats wild! I can't wait to see the new models! My only nit to pick with the Morrigan is the battery "box?" its really tight and I worry about the exposed leads getting caught . As always love your work and truly appreciate the reply!! Keep on doing the awesome work you are doing!
![[Live] : ONE 169 วันนี้!! "อนาโตลี vs อูมาร์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IK3YZVWuFJg/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for all the work you have put into these!!!
I'm still working on Thumper, but this one is next. Thank you, this is rad! Ever thought about making a 1:5 scale?
Thanks, 1:5 scale? No. I have enough trouble making parts small enough for the PrusaMK3 and the Ender3 at 1:8 scale. People are disappointed that I exclude the Prusa Mini. I will keep 1:5 scale in mind though.
A 1/10 monster truck would be epic too😅
Wow, great work! Im building this one as we speak. My winter project. 😍 but do you have some kind of calibration part? Like this bearing should fit snuggly inside this printed part or something? I have not gotten the bearings yet, but when i measure them with my caliper, it seems a little tight. 🤔
Good idea! I have been meaning to make a calibration test block. I will get started on that now. Prusa and Bambu printers tend to print this model perfectly out of the box. Creality printers tend to over extrude. I have a few parts adjusted for a looser fit in the requested parts listing but it is always better to tune your printer properly. I will have the test calibration print within 24 hours.
@@RockyTop_BC great. 😁 I have a cheap artillery hornet. I have not yet tuned extrusion miltiplier, so i had to use the parts you mentioned that are looser. Looking forward to be able to calibrate the printer with the tool you make. 😁👍🏻
Done, The test block fits a 5x11x4 bearing. It also test the gap in the ball joints. 0 is standard. A properly calibrated printer will print a ball joint that will at least break free at 0. For less accurate printers the looser -0.1 and -0.2 ball joints are available in the Morrigan Aftermarket shop. It seams that at least half of the people printing the Thumper model used an Ender3. It is more of a challenge but it is very doable. It is not nearly a challenge on a Prusa or Bambu printer.
@@RockyTop_BC Great. 👍🏻 also, great that you post all the files for free.
@@3D_printer_guy I remember people building things out of balsa wood, copper tubing, and a few rubber bands on a Sunday afternoon. ... Those were good times. I am just doing what I can to contribute.
It looks great!
And a Day bevor the 18.
@@pieprinz Thanks LOL, It is the 18th somewhere.
Any chance for a 3S version? I thought I saw somewhere you were working on a "Joker" version??
The Joker version used an expensive hard to find 3S battery. In testing it melts the plastic gears. I upgraded to the Cheater transmission only to find that the Fusion SE 1800kv on 2S out performed the Joker. I could run the Fusion SE 1800kv on 3S but 2S was already at the limit of control with 2S. The solid axles cause too much twist on acceleration. Instead of alternating the Morrigan I am designing two new models that can handle the power and speed. And altogether the 3s battery fit, I never properly secured the battery by design.
@@RockyTop_BC Thats wild! I can't wait to see the new models! My only nit to pick with the Morrigan is the battery "box?" its really tight and I worry about the exposed leads getting caught . As always love your work and truly appreciate the reply!! Keep on doing the awesome work you are doing!
Do you use PLA or mix of other materials?
I use Inland PLA+ exclusively on my models. eSun PLA+ was good, now they have a lot of contamination. I do use a lot of ASA but not on my models.