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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 เม.ย. 2017
- Here shows how to do manual leveling of ANYCUBIC i3 Mega, especially after adding a glass plate on top of the heated bed.
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It's very important to tell the guys, the levelling must be done in pre-HEATED condition only!!! The bed can be warped in cold condition (mostly they report significant buckle in middle), but in heated condition appr. 180°C the bed is nearly flat. The difference can be more than half a millimeter in cold condition and less than 0.1 in hot. But it must be observed also, the head should not be moved across the bed manually, if the plate is not heated!!! Otherwise you will scratch the glass - or you have to adjust too much distance in outer area for inner area safe distance... Black or white, nothing in between :-)
With a little bit luck, you got a printer with a very plane bed plate. Then it doesn't matter so much, if hot or cold. But in many cases the beds are not as accurate as required for temperature independent levelling.Also it is possible, to loose the screws for main frame assembly and to tilt the towers a little bit. The 1/10mm gap in the screw holes is enough to compensate small distortions of the plate. With UV-stripe light the eveness/warping of bed can be checked optical in accuracy of
*IF YOU HAVE WARPED BED:*
Download and flash Marlin firmware for Anycubic i3 Mega (it's the same as factory firmware except updated). In there will be a new program to calibrate warped tables - it's a bit involved but it works perfectly! If you're not sure, it's OK because you can flash the old firmware anytime. You can use Cura software to flash the printer firmware.
Guys! if you're not going to have voice over for these at LEAST have a high contrast font color for your subtitles. this is unreadable for me on my phone.
I do voice overs as a side hustle. I'd be happy to help you guys with that.
Otherwise, these videos are great. Good job!
As our users suggested, we are going to add double Z limit switches in future batches to ensure the X axis is well leveled every time it starts to print.
ANYCUBIC 3D can we added to our printers? Can you please upload a video explaining how to do it?
I have a problem with my Anycubic (new revision with 2 Z limit switches).
Only the limit switch on the right side gets triggered. The LEFT motor stops when the z limit switch on the RIGHT gets hit. There are still 5-6mm left on the LEFT side to go but as I said the motor stops. I also level the motors manually when the printer was off with calipers. I recognized that when I cut the power to the motors, the RIGHT side motor always moves down a bit and by that it reaches the limit switcher quicker.
But why isn't the LEFT side motor keep moving down to hit the z limit switch on its own side. I dont get it.
New batches have the black calibrating screws right?
I was able to level the Z axis by unplugging one side of the motors and going to Tools --> Axis and lowering the Z axis until both sides were even. Make sure to remember to plug the motor back in.
This video helped me alot. Specifically @4:36 with the z-adjustable screw. thank you.
Bought on ebay 2 weeks ago, same problem. Corners level but center warped high. Out of the box. Noobie, nozzle rubbed plate. No excuses but the initial setup could be clearer and more dire. Printed a few good models but some broke trying to remove from hard adhesion. My last model was stuck so bad it removed a chunk of top layer and glass material creating a penny sized shallow crater. Unreal. I uploaded photos to Anycubic. I just ordered a replacement as their is zero customer service because of a the holiday(s). This is the only video I found suggesting an additional glass plate on top. This is asignificant suggestion. To use this setup with a light coat of hairspray seems like a win win. Wish I knew that. Starting to regret purchasing what is obviously a popular printer.
Thank you, I will test this in the morning to see if it fixes the little bit of shift I have been having.
It fixed everything!!
Hello. I see you have sensor (auto-level). I don't have on my std one: did you add it yourself? is it working fine?
Thanks, this really helped!
I level all 4 corners perfect with paper ,but cannot level a center. It is allways too high.
If I level center with paper , on the corners the nozle is to high.
What I can do?
Im having the exact same problem
Hello. Have you solved this ?
It is very likely that the bed plate/ultrabase is bent. Return it if its new, otherwise there are ways to compensate for it via the new Marlin firmware using Manual Mesh Leveling: You measure many points and it will know the proper height for all the different locations on the bed, so you can even print on a bent bed. An alternative would be to put a glass sheet over it, which I prefer anyway.
Think that Anycubic will change but will it be great is you get the same with bent centre. I am in a questionable decision now.
Just buy an alu bed drill some holes and upgrade. What to expect from china
After you manually raised the left Z to be the same distance as the right Z you didn't adjust the left limit switch, so the next time you zero the Z you will have the same problem.
Hello anycubic i had ordered you printer and it came today i was Very happy and the many reviews were all positiv but then when i startet assembeling and came to the bed leveling it wont Level so i checked the bed and it had a slight curve to ist that you could'nt See with the eyes i will sent it back an order a New One i hope this One will be fine when Not than a 16 year old maker can't Love his firts 3d printer because its Bend
I am confused there is a bed leveling sensor on this one?? can you get it with this installed? was thinking of buy a Anycubic i3 Mega-S but really want auto bed leveling. :-D ore is it easey to add a bltoutch after??
I bought a printer this January a Mega S, and just started to not adhere on the plate so I did follow your calibrating test but ...... it's isn't working, and needs to be improved
why? because after adjusting the left and right of the bridge when I hit home for all, the z-limit put it all in the same position...;(
so after 30 minutes, I have to repeat the process again, but this time I take into calculation the z limiters(both of them) started with the motor off.
so I adjust the front 60mm-left-right, then put the z imitator from the upper screw to max down( I use the caliper to keep the front at 60.0mm), after this, I put a motor on, and hit home all, now you have a level left-right( mine was about 62.3mm), and if you want to be lower adjust from left and right z limit screw about 1turn of screw equal; when you are satisfied with dimension, check again if left-right is equal if not block the motor adjust the long z score a bit, and the small screw z-limit to be in line and equal. put the motor on, check home all, and measure left-right in the front to be equal.
After this start calibrating the table corner and middle.
I think the printer can be made easy to calibrate from construction, but this is in a separate discussion, a private one;)
Good luck when calibrating and then printing
great video.
Picked one of these up last week, followed all the leveling to the letter and first bunch of prints seemed to come out fine(although they were all small D&D minis and such in the center). Went to print something larger yesterday and seems my bed is not as level as I thought, I've been trying everything I can to level it but it's either level on the corners and there is too much of a gap in the center, or the center is level and there is excessive gaps on the corners. I've ordered a caliper and some feeler gauges to make sure my Z is level. Starting to fear I may have just wasted $370 :(
How did things go afterwards?
@@thatpspguy I could never get it level no matter what I tried. Ended up selling it and getting a new Creality CR10 with Auto Level. Used that for a year with 0 issues, then sold it and am out of the 3D printer game.
@@Raze_48 I am having the same problem now. It’s so tedious I almost don’t care
how Do I use an inductive sensor on the Kossel k2?
I just in the past two weeks purchased a anycube mega S and seriously need help trying to level the bed the front left end I have to adjust the spring all the way open to a point where there is no pressure on next spring where are the other three seem normal I hope that’s making sense and it still isn’t leveling properly.
Hi, did you solve this problem?
I received mine today. Big Problem: After the internal test (a single line printed around the bed perimeter) looked good but I cannot scrape it off. Is it too close to the bed? I don't think so because while doing the cold check after bed leveling, I had a sheet of paper between the Nozzle and the bed. I had no drag of the paper during the 4 corner check.
ALSO: I sent an email to: support@anycubic3d.com and it bounced saying it could not be delivered.
Please could you send the message with images to james@anycubic3d.com? Thank you.
Thanks
Good evening. I wanted to know what modifications I need to make to my anycubic mega s to be able to mount a leveling sensor? What version of firmware do you have installed? The "S" version does NOT have this leveling feature!!! Can this item be added to my machine? For the moment thank you and I'm waiting. Greetings.
Hi Pierpa, please contact our after-sale team with the link below to give you a professional reply, thank you :)
support.anycubic.com/en
The left Motor when leveling dosent stop
anyway to perform z-offset calibration in anycubic mega s?
I know this is a year later but the z offset is for auto bed leveling tools .
Anycubic I3 Mega S-3D corners are properly adjusted, but the center cannot be corrected, no solution?
You can install updated Marlin firmware which has warped table calibration tool. Warped tables are a common problem with 3d printers and it's gonna happen eventually due to heat cycling anyway. The old way of solving this was to grind the table to a level surface, now you can do software calibration instead.
@@michaelbuckers I solved my calibration problem with this video. th-cam.com/video/RZRY6kunAvs/w-d-xo.html
Hola quería saber si los motores que mueven el eje x tienen juego
Hello, If you have any problems, please enter our after-sales service page: www.anycubic.com/pages/contact-us
When I level all four corners, the first one isn‘t leveled anymore. I can do it as much as I want but the corners don‘t stay in their position. At the end every corner is badly leveled and the center is way too low...
Can someone please help me?
Same problem 😐
with the new heater and glass plate the bed will not level anymore. bought another brand with auto level but bigger build plate also.
Hi bobby, if you have leveling inquiries please feel free to contact us and we will try out best to get it resolved.
From where can I get the glass
Sir, you can find accessories here.
www.anycubic.com/collections/accessories
I don't understand why you would turn the lead screws without resetting the microswitches, Without changing the switch positions the lead screw changes will be lost when it homes again
중고을 샀는데요 부품이 컴퓨터 연결선 없서요
I bought that printer a few months ago but it came without the leveling sensor.. why?
Hi there, the mega printer does not have auto leveling function, so it without leveling sensor.
@@ANYCUBIC3D but it has that in the video, even a menu for it in the printers UI
Holy shit you’re right. I thought you were just making that up. There’s clearly an induction center on this printer and I’ve watched this video a dozen times without noticing
Where to find that test file??
The test file is shown on our official website.
www.anycubic3d.com/support.html
@@ANYCUBIC3D Broken link
@@ANYCUBIC3D Your link is broken and I can not find a test file on your website that will allow me to properly align my printer, which means it's big enough to check the corners of the disk.
@@styuk Hello there, thank you for your message. And feel sorry for the inconvenience it may cause. We did make the adjustment on our new site, it's available on there. www.anycubic.com/
If you do not find that, feel free to send a PM to our FB page.
"T0 sensor abnormal"
How i can fix it ??
Sorry for inconvenience. If you have any problems, please enter our after-sales service page: www.anycubic.com/pages/contact-us
Z axis leveling shall be done against Y axis. For bed clearance, use a thickness gauge, make sure to measure a heated bed. Then use a custom Marlin firmware and do manual bed leveling. Iterate a few times with bed leveling active (M420 S1) and adjust matrix manually. Finally heat head and adjust Z offset. The whole process takes 2-3 hours and involves typing g-code commands to move head around. It is definitely not an easy task for starters and the 4 corners adjustment is definitely not enough. Nothing is really straight with this printer, I have up to 0.12mm (!) difference between highest and lowest points. You won't work out for that much using 4 corner alignment only. For ref, paper height is 0.1mm.
I am attempting to level my printer. When hitting "home Z" the motor makes a loud grinding noise and nothing moves. Anyone know how to fix this?
Mines doing the same
Sir, in order to find out the reason, you can send a video or picture to our Facebook home page, and there will be after-sales staff to solve the problem for you soon. 😊
AS 수리점
Why don't Anycubic give us this testfile instead the stupid owls?
Some steps missing
Lose the music!
Il video è fatto veramente male, tutto troppo veloce e confuso.. mai visto un video peggiore..
inoltreremo il tuo suggerimento al nostro reparto di progettazione e la prossima volta faremo un video migliore,Grazie mille Roberto😊
It would be nice if this process was properly explained in the instructions instead of just having a load of badly-translated 'ingrish'.
What a nightmare? Who designs these? Bonded Glass and Aluminium with heating under them? They expand at vastly different rates. Even if they were ' flat ' to start with, once heated different expansion rates cause one or the other to warp. Simple A-level Physics. Using pressings to manufacture a ' precision ' intrument is fine so long as there is atleast one ' flat ' datum surface to measure from and adequate means of adjustments is provided in the bearing blocks which are not the case here. The only viable solution is to measure the bed once in the heated state, using software and use this as compensation to modify the G-Code before sending the data to the drivers. I have no idea what Marlin is, as someone mentioned, but to my mind this is the only way to overcome Z height inaccuracy problems. The shame of it is that I ordered one of these before reading all these horror stories. We shall see.