There's a world of difference between these old videos and your recent work, but both are still enjoyable for the clarity of presentation and ingenuity in designs. I hope you realise how many lives you've touched; how many of us are better for having found your channel. Thank you so much for all the time and effort you put into sharing your knowledge with such patience and humour.
During this quarantine I've been blessed by stumbling across your channel. And before i knew it, ive watched dozens of your videos and I've genuinely enjoyed all of them! All the 20-30 min videos that make me feel like im an apprentice in your amazing shop. Amazing to see how you've gone so far in your videos. The presentation and everything, how it has improved and wow. Also great to see how your safety black long sleeves look so new in this video! Keep it up man! Awesome admirable job Maybe after a few years into my mechanical engineering education, I'd hope to peer i to these videos of yours to find my old comments, as a reminder of how inspired i became by watching yout content. Cheers this old tony!
Just wait. Soon you'll see the notification when TOT posts a video and you'll have a whole wave of emotions: "should I watch it now or save it for when I've been good?"; "if I get a lathe will they let me trade-in my used baby seat and crib? will they take a four-year old?"; "is TOT going to post a long one or a short one and maybe I shouldn't watch the long one all at once because we might run out of things to watch during the pandemic." I can't wait for his millionth subscriber video!!! He's so close.
You're right! But what you don't know is that the fly cutter eventually gets repurposed as the mount for the Z-axis screw on the MAHO. Future Tony told me when he stopped by to weld up my lawnmower blade for me.
I am straight up jealous of the practical ingenuity possessed by whomever came up with the hexagonal soft jaws. What Eureka moment that must have been.
I do wonder how good the registration is after initial boring, once they're taken off and reset. I work in a CNC environment and we are constantly recutting/remaking jaws because they lose registration once they are removed.
@@spadgefox5286 It's at 8:45 where he says the key thing. "To be able to repeat it reasonably" If you work on professional CNC, what are your tolerances? 0.1, maybe 0.5 thou? I', really sure that Tony was fine with a 1 thou error or a 1 thou change in radius due to vibration EDIT: His end result ended up at 2 thou and his target was FIFTY lol
When you're cutting pie jaws like these, putting shims between the segments and then tightening then down allows you to bore then on size, yet still be able to clamp the work securely. In fact, since you have the exact curvature to match your part, the holding will be even more secure.
Hi Tony: I noticed that there was no mention in your video of one crucial detail in the use of soft jaws. Namely, not only they are useful to grub odd shapes but also to provide the most and only 100% accurate way of running concentric parts on a chuck. If you are curious enough to check promotional videos of so called "Machining Centers" from either the US, Europe and every other manufacturer, you'll see that they have stock of dozens (hundreds?) of soft jaws for production runs. We should also mention that those hydraulic or air pressure operated chucks are worth tens of thousands of dollars and still need soft jaws for absolute precision. Just imagine the commercial chucks that we use even first rate ones. An old and known alternative is to use a 4 jaw chuck which, while highly precise, don't offer quick repeateability. Another point worth mentioning is that due to obvious manufacturing tolerances in the base or mother jaw and internal chuck components, soft jaws must be numbered and placed in the same spot every time to insure results. In the subject of normal wear and manufacturing tolerances, I always use only one spot to tighten a chuck because all other locations allow unequal and distorting torque forces on the jaw in question for that reason, affecting concentricity.on the workpiece. Such method is used by many knowledgeable machinists without affecting holding strength. Using excessive torque applied to chuck jaws cause springing of same and is not necessary. To give you an idea, adjustable hydraulic chuck jaws use a maximum of 100 Lbs. of pressure and beyond that level, the jaws are distorted and the chuck damaged. So much to learn and so little time. Oldtimer
I am a Millwright, but I’m now working as a machinist. Mostly manual work with a bit of conversational CNC. What I love about videos like this are all the subtle “time on tools” tricks that I missed because I didn’t apprentice under a machinist. For example I have never thought of using a deburring tool on a part while turning it on an lathe...... I have always used emery cloth. Of course I understand different techniques have different safety aspects, watch for line of fire if something grabs etc....
"Hey, youtube"...."Welcome to my shop"..."What the heck are soft jaws?"....Little voice cracks...You were so cute Old Tony...Really blossomed into a home-shop Chad
Whoooaaa.... how nervous you are shows in your voice. I'm glad you kept this up. Really shows those of us considering uploading videos that even you developed much of your online persona as you went
I'm just starting off in this amazing hobby. Your videos have been extremely helpful! I'm going through some of your older videos now, you have come a long way! Congrats!!
Came here from Joe Pie’s channel. He praised your channel, your video editing capabilities, and your sense of humor. I had been here before but briefly and, because of your little badge, I couldn’t understand if you were a serious machinist or just a hobbyist! Boy, was I wrong? By a mile point thirty two at least! When I decided to take a shot, by his recommendation, I was hooked! You both have so much experience and have been here for so long that I couldn’t believe I missed those details! Thank you for all you do for us!
Love your work, please keep it up! Love the hex indexable soft jaws! Agree with many of your commenters that the jaws should be machined, with 'normal' pre load on scroll (with a gap for winding the jaws in), to the correct diameters so as not to distort the work and to give better surface registration for grip of part. This is especially important to do bores, grooves and internal bearing housings. Also you should mention the ability to do several different set ups for the one piece so, for instance: 1/ roughing out one side of the blank with the bar through the head stock and part off.. 2/ once the blanks are done, 1st set up at one depth of the jaws with: 2/ the turn around to finish the other end and final bore sizing. You should do another of your excellent videos including this. Carl.
Great video Tony, I love the Hex Addition, what a good idea. I guess there is always going to be the associated risk of increasing the rotational mass, but in general sensible use just an awesome idea. Thanks for posting!
Those hexes sure are clever, we used to use, a similar slotted top with inserts we made, basically same idea, and the inserts we kept for different jobs.. Cool ideas as usual Tony
One thing I found out the hard way: not having previously owned a chuck with the classic (rectangular, not stepped) soft jaws, the first time I used them on my big new Bison 3 -jaw, I failed to take account of the much increased zone of destruction, and consequently ran the outer corners of the jaws into, and marked, my cross-slide (which I had until then managed to keep pristine, on a lathe from the 1950s!). Not happy! Luckily I had long ago fitted a "dead man's pedal" which brakes the lathe to a halt the moment I step OFF it. This meant I did not damage the chuck, although it was spinning fast at the time. And the cross slide damage was, I suppose, cosmetic - it certainly does not affect function
Good stuff again!!!! Thanks Tony, you continue to add more avenues for thought here. Please keep them coming. Hey you okay, seem kind of serious in this one.
Great Video! I've heard the term soft jaws but did not figure out what it meant. You also are showing the type of thinking that is going on with machining and the opportunity for creativity.
I really like those hex pieces you added to the jaws. So you got a thumbs up. But I agree with many about spacing the jaws out a little and forming a perfect size counterbore. It will difinitely improve consistency in any run of parts.
Hurray for old TOT videos to fill the void in these uncertain times. Something seems different about these really old videos.... I think it's the condition of your sweatshirt, but I'm not sure.
Depends on the chuck. Some have recessed bolts next to the jaws and so any length of 'throw away' round stock can be centre drilled and countersunk and Cap Screw bolted to the chuck face. With the hard jaws removed, the three 'spacers' can be all machined to the axis at whatever 'height' might be needed. Replace the hard jaws and parallel facing two sides of a plate is quick and easy as is repetition of same parts with same width requirements. This method can be just as handy as setting up with soft jaws for specific needs.
Awesome recycling of soft jaws. I also agree with anonymic79. Clamping the jaws together and cutting undersize may not be the west idea, Cutting the correct size and spacing the jaws would be like using the collet. The part will also be running 100 true irrespective of the chuck offset error. There is also the added advantage that you have to cut less on the jaws, extending the life of even your replaceable jaw clamps.
I've just realised that I have the same lathe as you! I have a Colchester Student, with a round head and a removable bed piece. Can turn 18" in diameter, when the gap in the bed is removed. The used to sell them under the Clausing brand in the US. :)
So effectively you can now cut this part and face washers on one end of the hex.. so carefull planning can allow you to do 2 or maybe 3 parts per hex corner. Nice video Tony.
Great video just wanted to mention when using soft jaws you can have 4 or more different parts registered to the same set of jaws. Have one set that has a solid hold on 3" and 2" with a flat back and also on the top holding smaller parts.
That's interesting "barring the boring parts." See when I've heard people talking about soft jaws in the past I always thought it meant lathe jaws that were soft enough that they wouldn't damage the part your milling. I had never imagined that it was to allow them to be cut for specific jobs. As for the keyed consumables you milled out of hex stock man that is brilliant. It makes me wish I had an end mill capable of doing that. Sadly I only have machining tools for jobs on the scale of an RC model and I use them mostly for prototyping miniature robotics and the occasional RC car reduction or pinion gear. I've also been known to mill my own aluminum billet rims for them for obvious reasons. Either way, most of the things I turn are under 2 inches in diameter and those that aren't have to be turned between centers like the RC car rims.
Growing up in a purely Manual only Job Shop environment (Lots of funky shaft work for the local aluminum plant) I too thought Soft Jaws referred to not damaging parts. It wasn't until I worked in my first CNC shop that I was quickly disillusioned of that misinformation. That shop used exclusively Soft Jaws for EVERYTHING. Every job packet included a Soft Jaw setup for every fixturing op of a part. Wasteful, but educational.
Awesome video. Kind of reminds me of pot chucks for a 5c collet. Would it make sense to use a 1/4 inch dowel pin in the center of the lathe jaws when cutting the bore?
The profile at 1:40 or so looks a lot like a .45 ACP cartridge case. I'll bet the previous owner was a reloader, and was using the lathe to trim empty cases to length. It doesn't have to be done often, but when you do, most reloaders will trim several hundred at a time.
Jaws should be cutted to exactly same diameter as part. Usually gripping force is applied only on 1 particular diameter of the part. You may to put brass pin or ring between jaws and tight chuck up before machining the jaws, then you will have enough stroke to grip the part.
if you machine the jaws while open a bit you can machine to size. will still clamp and will avoid trying to match off size diameters to clamp as in your method.
If you had put a set of three 0.020" or 0.030" shims between the sides of the hexes and tightened down, then you could have machined the recess to exactly the diameter of the work-piece. Once the shims were removed, the jaws would tighten down perfectly on the work-piece. By machining a smaller diameter recess, your jaws are pressing harder near the gaps between the jaws than in the center of each jaw. This could possibly distort the work-piece, especially if the final cut was not a simple facing cut.
These hex soft jaws are a master stroke. Is this your idea or did follow an idea from elsewhere? Either way, they're fantastic, if your idea, is it OK to copy them? Thanks Stuart
I think it was an English engineer called John Stevenson who originally came up with the idea and put it out there for others - it's definitely public domain.
This Young Tony
Not anymore
@@IW4DBX I'm going to need you to machine your sarcasm down a little bit. maybe 2 tenths will do hard to say though without seeing the blueprints...
There's a world of difference between these old videos and your recent work, but both are still enjoyable for the clarity of presentation and ingenuity in designs. I hope you realise how many lives you've touched; how many of us are better for having found your channel. Thank you so much for all the time and effort you put into sharing your knowledge with such patience and humour.
Word
During this quarantine I've been blessed by stumbling across your channel. And before i knew it, ive watched dozens of your videos and I've genuinely enjoyed all of them! All the 20-30 min videos that make me feel like im an apprentice in your amazing shop. Amazing to see how you've gone so far in your videos. The presentation and everything, how it has improved and wow. Also great to see how your safety black long sleeves look so new in this video! Keep it up man! Awesome admirable job
Maybe after a few years into my mechanical engineering education, I'd hope to peer i to these videos of yours to find my old comments, as a reminder of how inspired i became by watching yout content. Cheers this old tony!
Just wait. Soon you'll see the notification when TOT posts a video and you'll have a whole wave of emotions: "should I watch it now or save it for when I've been good?"; "if I get a lathe will they let me trade-in my used baby seat and crib? will they take a four-year old?"; "is TOT going to post a long one or a short one and maybe I shouldn't watch the long one all at once because we might run out of things to watch during the pandemic."
I can't wait for his millionth subscriber video!!! He's so close.
I think the rest of that hex stock will one day come in handy for making a fly cutter. just guessing here.
And maybe a taper tooling tightening fixture
@@danhammond8406 You mean Tixture?
You're right! But what you don't know is that the fly cutter eventually gets repurposed as the mount for the Z-axis screw on the MAHO.
Future Tony told me when he stopped by to weld up my lawnmower blade for me.
Its been 6 years dude
@@kajiarrow7761 6 years? Pffft! I got stuff in my fridge older than that!
OK Zoomer. ;-)
Tony you have come so far since then. Literally here you had all kinds of uhs and ums and now...it's better than cable!
Time has been kind to the man.
I am straight up jealous of the practical ingenuity possessed by whomever came up with the hexagonal soft jaws. What Eureka moment that must have been.
I think it was an English engineer called John Stevenson
I do wonder how good the registration is after initial boring, once they're taken off and reset. I work in a CNC environment and we are constantly recutting/remaking jaws because they lose registration once they are removed.
@@spadgefox5286 It's at 8:45 where he says the key thing. "To be able to repeat it reasonably"
If you work on professional CNC, what are your tolerances? 0.1, maybe 0.5 thou? I', really sure that Tony was fine with a 1 thou error or a 1 thou change in radius due to vibration
EDIT: His end result ended up at 2 thou and his target was FIFTY lol
When you're cutting pie jaws like these, putting shims between the segments and then tightening then down allows you to bore then on size, yet still be able to clamp the work securely. In fact, since you have the exact curvature to match your part, the holding will be even more secure.
And undersize jaws can leave nasty markings on soft material part's.
I was about to ask a quest along those lines. I have used a pin to preload and machine a collet and it worked great but i dont know if thats correct.
I love these old videos.
Such contrast!
Hi Tony:
I noticed that there was no mention in your video of one crucial detail in the use of soft jaws. Namely, not only they are useful to grub odd shapes but also to provide the most and only 100% accurate way of running concentric parts on a chuck.
If you are curious enough to check promotional videos of so called "Machining Centers" from either the US, Europe and every other manufacturer, you'll see that they have stock of dozens (hundreds?) of soft jaws for production runs. We should also mention that those hydraulic or air pressure operated chucks are worth tens of thousands of dollars and still need soft jaws for absolute precision. Just imagine the commercial chucks that we use even first rate ones. An old and known alternative is to use a 4 jaw chuck which, while highly precise, don't offer quick repeateability. Another point worth mentioning is that due to obvious manufacturing tolerances in the base or mother jaw and internal chuck components, soft jaws must be numbered and placed in the same spot every time to insure results.
In the subject of normal wear and manufacturing tolerances, I always use only one spot to tighten a chuck because all other locations allow unequal and distorting torque forces on the jaw in question for that reason, affecting concentricity.on the workpiece. Such method is used by many knowledgeable machinists without affecting holding strength. Using excessive torque applied to chuck jaws cause springing of same and is not necessary. To give you an idea, adjustable hydraulic chuck jaws use a maximum of 100 Lbs. of pressure and beyond that level, the jaws are distorted and the chuck damaged. So much to learn and so little time.
Oldtimer
I am a Millwright, but I’m now working as a machinist. Mostly manual work with a bit of conversational CNC. What I love about videos like this are all the subtle “time on tools” tricks that I missed because I didn’t apprentice under a machinist. For example I have never thought of using a deburring tool on a part while turning it on an lathe...... I have always used emery cloth. Of course I understand different techniques have different safety aspects, watch for line of fire if something grabs etc....
Good tip.
Nice to see the nooby video of the beginning of a entertainer and teacher.
Stay true to yourself.
I like your set up on the jaws like you've made. I'll pass this video on. !!! 3 or 4 years later. You've came along way Tony.
That's brilliant... I learned what soft jaws are and an improved design all in one video.
"Hey, youtube"...."Welcome to my shop"..."What the heck are soft jaws?"....Little voice cracks...You were so cute Old Tony...Really blossomed into a home-shop Chad
Your videos have come a long way
Thank you for your videos! Always, very informative with a hint of good humor!
The idea of making soft jaws out of hex stock is brilliant. 6 positions, for potentially 6 different parts !!! Thank you good sir
Whoooaaa.... how nervous you are shows in your voice. I'm glad you kept this up. Really shows those of us considering uploading videos that even you developed much of your online persona as you went
I can feel the cold weather in your voice
Dude almost to a million subs. I am sad I didn’t find this channel years ago.
Discovered your channel about a week ago, best channel on yt! Keep up the good work bro
I'm just starting off in this amazing hobby. Your videos have been extremely helpful! I'm going through some of your older videos now, you have come a long way! Congrats!!
Came here from Joe Pie’s channel. He praised your channel, your video editing capabilities, and your sense of humor. I had been here before but briefly and, because of your little badge, I couldn’t understand if you were a serious machinist or just a hobbyist! Boy, was I wrong? By a mile point thirty two at least! When I decided to take a shot, by his recommendation, I was hooked! You both have so much experience and have been here for so long that I couldn’t believe I missed those details!
Thank you for all you do for us!
the start of the funny. after this video the style is pretty much set. impressive
been watching all your videos! so cool to see how far along you have came with editing and talking for the videos. i have learned alot from you :)
Before Tony got hilarious in his videos... :O
Thanks for the education. I appreciate tips like this, might be useful someday! Keep making the great videos pal!
I love innovative and clever solutions!
There's nothing quite as refreshing as seeing genius at work! :)
That is new to me, thanks for the info.
You had blew my mind with the spherical ball cut with a boring bar, and this opens up so many possibility's.
Excellent video, many thanks for this!
I can't believe that these aren't available in various configurations from a toolmonger. Incredible idea, patent material.
Man, Old School TOL. You make the best videos..
Love your work, please keep it up! Love the hex indexable soft jaws! Agree with many of your commenters that the jaws should be machined, with 'normal' pre load on scroll (with a gap for winding the jaws in), to the correct diameters so as not to distort the work and to give better surface registration for grip of part. This is especially important to do bores, grooves and internal bearing housings. Also you should mention the ability to do several different set ups for the one piece so, for instance: 1/ roughing out one side of the blank with the bar through the head stock and part off.. 2/ once the blanks are done, 1st set up at one depth of the jaws with: 2/ the turn around to finish the other end and final bore sizing. You should do another of your excellent videos including this. Carl.
Great video Tony, I love the Hex Addition, what a good idea. I guess there is always going to be the associated risk of increasing the rotational mass, but in general sensible use just an awesome idea. Thanks for posting!
those 3 hexes look absolutely intimidating
Like an angry bee-themed flywheel
Beautiful work Senior Capitan!
Those hexes sure are clever, we used to use, a similar slotted top with inserts we made, basically same idea, and the inserts we kept for different jobs..
Cool ideas as usual Tony
Someone may find this interesting you say? Understatement! Soft jaws are underrated. Good stuff here.
It's fun watching the old stuff ... lets me see the evolution of your process.
Hi. Excellent video. Good tips. Always good to see people who knows what they doing. Keep Up !!!
Great idea, thanks. Now all I need is a set of soft jaws and a surface grinder which I am still planning to make
Old Bob
Ingenious idea! Thanks for sharing! 😃👍
It’s Like listening to Alan Alda teach shop class. Nothing wrong with that. I miss This Old Tony.
Awesome! Of course, some of us found it interesting, thanks for sharing.
Excellent design! I will have to borrow it. Nice work on the video. Thanks!
One thing I found out the hard way: not having previously owned a chuck with the classic (rectangular, not stepped) soft jaws, the first time I used them on my big new Bison 3 -jaw, I failed to take account of the much increased zone of destruction, and consequently ran the outer corners of the jaws into, and marked, my cross-slide (which I had until then managed to keep pristine, on a lathe from the 1950s!). Not happy!
Luckily I had long ago fitted a "dead man's pedal" which brakes the lathe to a halt the moment I step OFF it.
This meant I did not damage the chuck, although it was spinning fast at the time. And the cross slide damage was, I suppose, cosmetic - it certainly does not affect function
Good stuff again!!!! Thanks Tony, you continue to add more avenues for thought here. Please keep them coming.
Hey you okay, seem kind of serious in this one.
Cool idea and nice video tony! Just subscribed to your channel after I watched the taper attachment vid. Nice work
I love it!
Very cool idea Tony.
Great Video! I've heard the term soft jaws but did not figure out what it meant. You also are showing the type of thinking that is going on with machining and the opportunity for creativity.
Thanks for sharing very nice use and variation of a soft jaw.
I really like those hex pieces you added to the jaws. So you got a thumbs up.
But I agree with many about spacing the jaws out a little and forming a perfect size counterbore. It will difinitely improve consistency in any run of parts.
Very good work thanks for showing
Great videos man!
That's actually a great idea for the soft Jaws.
Astonishing thanks mate!
Tony
Congrats on the 1/2M subs 👍
July 2021 and he's over one million.
Thanks for the video.
Hurray for old TOT videos to fill the void in these uncertain times. Something seems different about these really old videos.... I think it's the condition of your sweatshirt, but I'm not sure.
Fantastic!
Nice ,thanks for sharing great ideas
The Hex soft jaw is an awesome idea Tony.
Very nice, I learned something.
Nice extension of the Jaws
Hex...... Excellent idea..... Good work and great video. Thanks.
Depends on the chuck. Some have recessed bolts next to the jaws and so any length of 'throw away' round stock can be centre drilled and countersunk and Cap Screw bolted to the chuck face. With the hard jaws removed, the three 'spacers' can be all machined to the axis at whatever 'height' might be needed. Replace the hard jaws and parallel facing two sides of a plate is quick and easy as is repetition of same parts with same width requirements. This method can be just as handy as setting up with soft jaws for specific needs.
I've used this jaws even from school. It help you to improve the accuracy of the lathing.
Very Nice Tip!!!
Awesome recycling of soft jaws. I also agree with anonymic79. Clamping the jaws together and cutting undersize may not be the west idea, Cutting the correct size and spacing the jaws would be like using the collet. The part will also be running 100 true irrespective of the chuck offset error. There is also the added advantage that you have to cut less on the jaws, extending the life of even your replaceable jaw clamps.
Too professional 😂
Very Nice!
Very cool, excellent ideal, can this tool saving a lot of work and solution to many cuttings problem s
I've just realised that I have the same lathe as you! I have a Colchester Student, with a round head and a removable bed piece. Can turn 18" in diameter, when the gap in the bed is removed. The used to sell them under the Clausing brand in the US. :)
6:21 "You know, I can handle six sets of parts"
-This Old Tony, 2014
I'm glad you've gotten more comfortable making your videos. That's why I don't do them.
Even if they had no other advantage (and clearly they do) those hexagonal soft jaws sure look sexy mounted on the chuck! :D
So effectively you can now cut this part and face washers on one end of the hex.. so carefull planning can allow you to do 2 or maybe 3 parts per hex corner. Nice video Tony.
You've come a long way TOT
I dont even do or care for machining, but i find his channel relaxing and hilarious. He has made major strides in his channel
Very interesting indeed. thank you.
Great vid!
I always learn or laugh, or both!
Quick question, do you live close to a harbor? sounded like a buoy gong outside :D
Great video just wanted to mention when using soft jaws you can have 4 or more different parts registered to the same set of jaws. Have one set that has a solid hold on 3" and 2" with a flat back and also on the top holding smaller parts.
Lucky they put a soft hammer on the back of T Allen Keys.
That's interesting "barring the boring parts." See when I've heard people talking about soft jaws in the past I always thought it meant lathe jaws that were soft enough that they wouldn't damage the part your milling. I had never imagined that it was to allow them to be cut for specific jobs. As for the keyed consumables you milled out of hex stock man that is brilliant. It makes me wish I had an end mill capable of doing that. Sadly I only have machining tools for jobs on the scale of an RC model and I use them mostly for prototyping miniature robotics and the occasional RC car reduction or pinion gear. I've also been known to mill my own aluminum billet rims for them for obvious reasons. Either way, most of the things I turn are under 2 inches in diameter and those that aren't have to be turned between centers like the RC car rims.
Growing up in a purely Manual only Job Shop environment (Lots of funky shaft work for the local aluminum plant) I too thought Soft Jaws referred to not damaging parts.
It wasn't until I worked in my first CNC shop that I was quickly disillusioned of that misinformation. That shop used exclusively Soft Jaws for EVERYTHING. Every job packet included a Soft Jaw setup for every fixturing op of a part.
Wasteful, but educational.
@@elHosed , not wasteful; the only waste is a ruined part. I've ruined plenty in my home shop, due to crappy tooling and shortcuts.
8:36 make the jaws the same size as part, clamp a pin in during jaw cutting or buy a soft jaw machining ring
great idea, the hex jaws, thanks. btw, that little chingadera was a rivet nut, a very handy thing, if you have the setting tool...
Awesome video. Kind of reminds me of pot chucks for a 5c collet. Would it make sense to use a 1/4 inch dowel pin in the center of the lathe jaws when cutting the bore?
nice lathe
The profile at 1:40 or so looks a lot like a .45 ACP cartridge case. I'll bet the previous owner was a reloader, and was using the lathe to trim empty cases to length. It doesn't have to be done often, but when you do, most reloaders will trim several hundred at a time.
Jaws should be cutted to exactly same diameter as part. Usually gripping force is applied only on 1 particular diameter of the part. You may to put brass pin or ring between jaws and tight chuck up before machining the jaws, then you will have enough stroke to grip the part.
Ahh, you could also use the soft jaws to work on pieces that have offset axis
if you machine the jaws while open a bit you can machine to size. will still clamp and will avoid trying to match off size diameters to clamp as in your method.
Assuming there isn't any backlash in the chuck?
If you had put a set of three 0.020" or 0.030" shims between the sides of the hexes and tightened down, then you could have machined the recess to exactly the diameter of the work-piece. Once the shims were removed, the jaws would tighten down perfectly on the work-piece. By machining a smaller diameter recess, your jaws are pressing harder near the gaps between the jaws than in the center of each jaw. This could possibly distort the work-piece, especially if the final cut was not a simple facing cut.
Yes, same idea here, or pin in the center.
Good. Thanks!
I can here the nice sounds of the 2 o clock bells ringigng.
These hex soft jaws are a master stroke. Is this your idea or did follow an idea from elsewhere? Either way, they're fantastic, if your idea, is it OK to copy them?
Thanks
Stuart
+Stuart York I didn't invent them, feel free to make your own -- it's encouraged!
I think it was an English engineer called John Stevenson who originally came up with the idea and put it out there for others - it's definitely public domain.
best part is that you can make multiple sets of those hex parts and keep the same feet in the lathe giving you even more options
I used those same jaws in science class making rocket parts...
💪🚀👍
Yeah, 6 in 1 set - really nice idea !
Nice idea! Thanks for the soft jaw tip!
Jeff
Love this 6 in 1
Hello, I’m from the future
Vintage Tony!
thats genius