You all probably dont care at all but does someone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account? I somehow lost the password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
I'm currently a nuclear engineering student and I think that it is pretty cool that there are electrodes that use Thorium. Honestly the dosage you're gonna get isn't bad. If you're a weekend welder, I'd estimate that your average dose from doing a project with thoriated electrodes won't even approach half an mrem. You get more radiation dose than that from something silly like trace radioisotopes in your spouse's body if you sleep together every night (well, maybe not, depends on how recently you got married). Average yearly dose for someone in the U.S. is around 360 mrem, for context. The main issue, of course, is the possibility of inhaling thorium or thorium oxides. Simple ventilation and a breathing mask should be pretty sufficient, and you want to be especially careful when you're grinding the electrodes that you've got some ventilation going. Overall it's just a little bit of Thorium, nothing to get your pants in a bunch over. If it was super dangerous California would probably make it illegal or something. Heck, secondhand smoking is MUCH worse than thoriated electrodes could ever be for your health.
I caught this video while I was washing dishes and heard the radioactive talk out of the corner of my ear so I dropped the dishes and rewound to hear it again. I can only tell you that working at a nuclear power plant for 31 years as a Radiation Protection Tech we never concerned ourselves with the tungsten welding tips in regards to occupational radiation exposure and believe me we track many many things in that regard. The tungsten tips were only a concern for us in that they would cause our monitoring devices to alarm when workers forgot they had them in their pockets and tried to exit the site. We would have to head over and confiscate the tungsten and make sure the worker cleared the monitors after that. Love the videos and can't wait to check out some more.
@csknives2140 you'd think then that 3 years after my comment I'd be dead or very sick by now but here I am responding to someone who lacks any basic knowledge of the topic at hand.
csknives2140 Other types of power plant are putting out Chernobyl level death rates on a daily basis. Remember, Chernobyl directly caused less than 100 deaths.
Sounds like a cool job! I was watching just waiting for him to point the geiger counter at an open primary power line or the fluorescent lights in his shop and get a reading higher than the tungsten lol. Seeing a home inspection done on a house near the really big power lines with the metal towers holding them up and seeing the inspector get higher radiation readings from the old light tubes in the basement than he got standing right under the power lines was mind blowing
@@jakobn4191 I want some machines and my work gets rid of 2 or 3 machines a year. They usually sell for scrap price but unfortunately they ALWAYS off them to the supervisor first. He has 3 mills in his garage and 2 lathes plus a bandsaw and radial arm drill. He still takes the machines and resells them. Greedy bastard
That shootnthepoop is a great format, like it very much :) As for dressing the diamond wheel, youre on the right track, but normaly a silicone carbide wheel is used for that. I think a lot of boxes of carbide inserts that show up on fleamarkets just got lost at the job ;)
I know this video is pretty old already but several years ago I worked in a manufacturing plant that made crankshafts for earth moving equipment and we had a lot of CNC machines and lathes. The lathes sometimes plunged straight into a 5mm cut (not sure what that is in inches) which used to scare the crap out of me. Some of the other insert based machines took even heavier cuts than that. I still regret not taking videos of the machining. The swarf in the lathes used to hit the window in the safety door like a handful of gravel being thrown against the glass. The lathes used to have about a half inch stream of coolant on the inserts but the other machines cut dry. Only once I experienced this, did I realize that we were only toying with the inserts in all the other machine shops I've worked in. The thing that surprised me even more was how long the inserts lasted taking such aggressive cuts through the hard outer layers of the forgings.
Love the video! I'm a manufacturing engineer at an automotive company- you're talking my language here. For dressing CBN wheels we use a diamond - usually a rotary blade (it's a 4" wheel mounted on a high speed motor). The blades are around $3000 USD. You can use a single point or cluster diamond. I think you may be loading up the wheel with aluminum oxide from the grinding wheel which will not help with making a clean cut. A loaded wheel generates a lot of heat and you can burn the carbide when resharpening (this causes microfractures on the carbide surface which lead to premature failure). You are spot on with the carbide inserts- need the right machine. 500-800SFM is needed, there's even more exotic inserts (cermets, silicia nitride, CBN) for cutting faster (+1200SFM) or hard material around 60HRc. High pressure coolant around 600-1000psi helps to break the chip. For your finishing: a smaller nose radius (0.4mm), D or V style insert, and positive rake (not double sided
Lanthanum and thorium are both weakly radioactive, lanthanum being just slightly more so. Neither is is probably as dangerous as a chest x-ray. Just don't ingest or breath the dust and you'll be OK. Pencil lead is worse than either.
@Supreme Leader Spock Not only is La 139 stable, La 138 has so little radioactivity, it's barely even classified as such, it's been in the earth's crust since it formed and it's half life is insanely long. Granted .09% of that La in the electrode is superficially radioactive, background radiation is likely 3 or 4 times higher than the electrode unless they use a 138 enriched lanthanum in the electrode.
I am an electrician and i seriously impressed by TOT's skills in humor and machining and electrical instrumentation and CAD and the list goes on and on and on
Hi Tony, another great video, thanks! About inserts, I was taught a rule of thumb when I was an apprentice, feed rate for good general finish is 1/2 insert tip radius...it works out pretty good as a starting point. Also from experience, on manual lathes if you got stringy rats nests going on with insert tooling a combination of coolant and reducing rpm will help. the heat in the chip makes it maleable so it flows rather than chip breaks.
Physics note: the main decay product of thorium is an alpha particle, which can't penetrate through the housing of your geiger counter, but can still give you a lovely lung cancer if you breathe some thoriated electrode dust. I don't have the expertise to say whether thoriated electrodes are actually harmful, but I can tell you your geiger counter isn't measuring the dangerous stuff.
Jason, this is only partly correct. The alpha particles can't be measured, true. But there are photons too and those can be measured. It shows these rods are slightly radioactive. But they also contain heavy metals.which probably causes a higher risk than the radiation. So don't inhale the dust if you grind this stuff.
Those inserts in the orange/bronze package (Iscar WNMG432 TF IC806) are incredible! My team and I use those almost exclusively for roughing Inconel 718. Also, you may already know this, but the CNMG style inserts may only have 4 cutting edges in the 80deg geometry, but they also have 4 cutting edges in 100deg geometry. You can use the 100deg for rough facing and rough boring if you have the correct tool holders. You can really get your money's worth if use all 8 edges!
It is so amazing how you have "evolved" with your videos in three short years. You started out excellent (at this point anyway) and now you are a Master, in 2019.
Yep, carbide demands horsepower. I used to have a couple of machines and it’s amazing how much material you can remove with 62 kilowatts at the spindle, also how much damage can happen really fast if things go wrong. I found button inserts were good for moving a lot of hard material in a small amount of time.
Sir, I find your videos and yourself nothing less than delightful! I am working my way through your library and enjoying the heck out of all of it! If you ever find yourself out in the Northern California area, I would love to buy you a meal and a drink!
I am the ultimate in non-pro, weekend warrior, novice welders, but I have had very good luck with E3 electrodes. I also pretty much stick to 3/32 diameter. I also think the electrodes work better when you keep them out of the puddle, but since I never do that, I don't have a lot of experience here.
This is one of the greatest videos on “carbide vs home lathe “ I’ve ever seen! It’s clear language, straight to the point, and super honest on the benefits x cost and possibility of achieving such benefits. I have some brazed carbide tools but got them used and most are dull. Do you have our plan to have a video on sharpening carbide? I’m sure a couple of us newbies could benefit from a sharpening bits with the necessary tools and supplies list to do it. Thank you for all of your videos!
I really enjoy your videos and find them extremely informative. I especially enjoy your sense of humor! Please keep them coming. Oh, and don't forget the occasional appearance of your shop helper. I'll bet he's a blast to be around!
+William Garrett Thanks William, and don't worry, he's around. Little too cold down in the shop, but once it warms up I won't be able to keep him outta there. Thanks for watching.
I love your humor... It's exactly what bosses think you're doing... They have no idea you're doing magic tricks when you finish a part of 3 different ops in 4 hours
I have been watching your videos for a few days now. Fantastic. Your humor reminds me of my family, Uncle Rick especially. Learning a great deal from your work here, much appreciated! Keep up the great content!
Hi Tony, years ago I had a job sharpening carbide cut off tools for production machinery, the flat surface would wear into a dip throwing off my angles, I remembered you never sharpen steel on a diamond wheel because it would pull the diamonds out of the bonding material so I used it to my advantage, I dressed the wheel with a block of steel to wear the wheel flat again and it worked good. remember "If it sounds stupid but it works, it's not stupid".
On the insert cutters: I'd love to see your results with a little water based coolant just on the heavy cuts. We do this at work with a squeeze bottle . Your lathe might bog a little less. I think it contaminates the micro-welding that happens and frees up some spindle torque. Thanks for the good videos, you're on my "watch at home with the kids" list. :) they love it. Haha.
I had the same question. Would the coolant also work as a lubricant to help the lathe handle the load. When I did that for a paycheck, the only time coolant got used was on chromed shafting. I was unaware that I should have been putting the screws to it more.
Your love and passion for your hobby are contagious ! Now I have a mini lathe and a mini mill in the apartment ! Feddilin with cheap rotary table to remove the backlash and converting it to a CNC 4th axis. I wonder if you made something about bearings? I know bearings are a vast topic, but what kind of bearings are suitable for a mini workshop? What are the things that bearing can and can't do ?
Great episode Tony. The carbide insert explanation with the contextual example really cleared up a lot of questions I'd had for a long time. And the Mike Seaver reference was hilarious.
An old bubby with one pretty small lathe and one monster with... I swear a six jaw chuck that I can fit my lunchbox into has offered to teach me a few things. I'm watching you to be able to ask intelligent questions. What a great show you have here, thanks.
I am not an advocate of chip hooks either. I was machining a bearing using a large horizontal mill. As an apprentice my job was to sit inside a large structure and pull the birds nest away from the cutting surface. On the final pass the birds nest wrapped around my hand/chip hook and started to pull me into the cutter. I pulled my hand free at the cost of cutting my hand and arm.
As a Skilled Centre (English spelling) Lathe Turner by trade (also retired now), a SWARF (nest/strings/chips) hook is a must have. Love the videos. Cheers.
Hi mate. Thanks for the explanation of some of the myths surrounding the carbide inserts. I have used them myself, with very varying results, and was not sure why. Perhaps erroneously, the carbide inserts would be the first choice for beginners, because one does not need to be able to grind a HSS blank, and therefore be able to start straight away.
Hi Tony, I agree, 2% lanthanated all the way. I still keep plenty of thoriated around. Thorium is an alpha particle emitter and is about as safe as radioactive particles get. It is absorbed (or blocked) by even thin clothing. The danger it poses is from ingestion when grinding.
I was a machinist for 20+ years and now a FabLab manager. My opinion would feed more I like about .03 inch per rev for roughing it will break the chip better. I think the key to turning is chip breaking roughing passes, leaving .010 then finish.
Only stumbled on your videos tonight, but feel like I've struck gold! Your snippy comments bring a smile to my face and you've got some skills too :) Keep it up!
I've heard (I also tend to depend on HSS for most of my turning) that you need to bury the corner radius (cut as deep or deeper than the corner radius) to make the chip breaker geometry work properly. Maybe looking for a smaller tip radius on the same Trigon inserts would let you use the same heavy insert holder for your finishing passes.
Great episode Tony. Think your little finger forgot more than I know about Tig tips...but I trust ya and got my interest up for one size fits all for the home shop. Also liked your perspective on carbide inserts. Think its all about finding balance for what you are doing. Again, Thanks for the time & work to share your thoughts and perspectives...always valuable and a hoot with your humor! ~PJ
I'm sorry but now we go metric! With my limited 25-year experience I use ~100-150 m/min surface speed. That gives ~350-400 rpm at 4" diameter. Mainly I use only one grade, one chipbreaker but different styles/sizes. Mostly CNMG or TNMG. Then turning hardened needs ceramics or good stuff. In my opinion the function of the chipbreaker correlates with the tip radius. If I would have the need/possibility to make a shop at home I would do some research: - How big is the lathe/mill? - What will I mainly work at? - What is good toolsize? - What type of insert is mostly usefull in different applications? Left/right and inside/outside. When all this is done I would start looking at toolpackages. My guess is that I would end up with three types of inserts: rhombic CCMT for inside turning, 35° VNMG fof the "fiddeling" and then WNMG for "roughing". If time isn't that important remember that 3*1mm is just as much as 1*3mm, but the stress on the machine is much greater with the deeper cut. Then the disclaimer: my thoughts are based on using machines standing on the floor. I have no idea on what works how on a benchtop machine. We only use shaft size 25*25mm on outside tools and up to 32mm on inside tools. Have fun, be well and keep safe 👍🏼💪🏼🤗!
My TIG guru told me not to faff about with electrodes, just use the gold ones for everything and he was right. Also, use pure argon for aluminium and steel. It is more expensive than argon/CO2 recommended for steel but you only need one bottle for both materials.
Thorium is relatively stable and only emits alpha particles when it decays. Some isotopes of thorium are beta emitters and those are the ones you need to look out for. Doubt they use those in welding rods due to a relatively short half-life. It's likely Thorium 232 and more toxic as a heavy metal than as a radioactive material, like Uranium.
I’ve found that stick and tig are Basicly all you’ll ever need as a welder. 4mm and up, especially outside the shop or where structural ability is important, go for stick. 15mm and less, especially where you want looks, no spatter, or need to do things like brazing (my personal favorite), go for tig. Personaly I use stick on as little as 3mm (1/8 for imperial) and I’ve found it’s fairly easy. If you use a 1/8th 6011 on about 75 amps you can weld 1/8th material. I was trained on metric and imperial, so it lets me do silly shit like “you need three inches, and like four millimeters.”
I have a nice scar on my thumb from where a birds nest got me as i tried to reach down to turn off the lathe. It wasn't breaking the chip but the strand was falling to the bottom of the machine nicely, then it decided it wanted to grab the whole nest and whip it around at 600 rmp. Fun times
I've always had carbide around the shop but only lately invested into insert tooling. Should have done it years ago as it make for better production times and more consistent results. Also agree on the tungsten...bought a few types and now settled back to the one.. Great video as usual Tony. Colin :-)
Thanks for the insert knowledge. Your finish with them at 10 thou per rev, is greater than my HSS finishing tool at 1.7. And, I would have to run it at like 200 RPM max on that piece. I don't like my spindle that fast though. So HSS for finishing isn't good for me.
I had a Miller Diversion and the Thoriated (red) worked well for steel and the pure (green) worked well for aluminum. I now have a Lincoln 200 and the greens don’t work at all for aluminum so I had to go to a zirconiated as the instructions that came with the welder suggested. The zirconiated were not easy to get here (they had to come from across town and took a half day) so I may try the lanthinated next time.
Tony... I genuinely enjoy your stuff! May I comment on diamond dressing, I worked in the glass industry for couple decades and we dressed diamond tooling with aluminum oxide stones. Dressing opens the diamonds which can be be glazed over by the metal-bond if they got too hot. We always dressed dry and machined with coolants. Not sure this is applicable when machining metals.
Tony, sorry, I did not notice this video when I asked you to make one on carbide inserts. Always educational, interesting and with added bonus of great humour. Many thanks for your efforts. Joe.
10:50 the poor surface finish is probably caused by the cutting stone you used on the die grinder. When you rotate it, you can see the material being off center so it's probably pretty unbalanced. Stating the obvious, that will make it vibrate! :)
Dunno if someone else commented on this, but it's not very necessary to true the dressing wheel. It will true itself when you contact. Our wheel dressers wobble visually when you mount a new wheel but that lasts only about 0.1 seconds as the action of trueing consumes that material. Also, what will help is frequent dressing with a dressing stick or something. This would not change the geometry of the wheel, so if you start getting taper, out of round, and or radii it won't help you. But it will declog the wheel and lead to better cutting action and cooler part surfaces. And to avoid making a second comment in the other video, gashing is indeed usually done with an angled wheel, and a sort of common practice is to have your gash just barely kiss the very tip of the corner (dubbing) to increase corner strength. On a small to no radius tool, this will show up as a very very tiny shiny spot when looking at the face of the cutter, like a twinkling star.
Hey if anyone is sceptical about the thoriated rods, just check how old is the guy you are buying them from. I mean he must be surrounded by tons to those. And if he is safe then it must be pretty safe( I guess).
I am new to the this old tony scene. However after a dozen or so video’s I am a huge fan. I am also glad to see you using Sandvik inserts. It keeps me employed. Lol
When dressing the grinding wheel the dresser should be free spinning. Use a red pencil to load the grinding wheel so you can see where and how much you need to dress it. The dressing wheel is usually a grey color and has a fixture for it that locks down to a mag chuck with an option of T-bolts
For the grand majority of tig welding, the specific composition of your electrode doesn't matter. Just make sure it's tungsten. As long as you have a good idea how to control the puddle, add filler and make a nice weld through and through, you'll be fine.
Hey Tony, lanthanum replaced the zirconium just because of the radiation. And you can weld everything with it! Overhere they are supposed to be taken out of the market. Great shows, exelent sense of humor.
Carbide tooling gets a bad name sometimes because it is so specialized. If you use a roughing insert designed for cast iron you're not going to get a nice surface finish on aluminum. For my home shop I use carbide almost exclusively. I love carbide threading inserts because the geometry is always perfect. For turning I like the Kennametal medium-positive inserts for negative rake tool holders. Stuff like WNMG (the N means neutral) or other _NMG shapes such as C, D, T, and V. These are great for generally removing material and passable surface finishes on most steels and aluminum. You can get sharpened inserts as well, which I prefer for light finishing passes. Look for a G (ground) instead of an M (molded) in that 3rd letter, such as TNGG, CCGT, etc. High speed steel works great if you don't mind grinding stuff all the time. I just find it so much easier to swap out a cutting edge on the insert and keep on truckin'. The vast majority of my projects are on diameters between .250 and 1.250" running at 910 rpm. Why 910? Because that's the fastest gear I have that runs smooth and quiet. 1250 works ok but the chips fly out a lot faster, the lathe is a bit noisier, and I don't notice much increased performance. 1800 rpm is loud and scary, with the vibration always showing up in my surface finishes. Some day I'll upgrade from my chinese 14x40.
You also can fix your grinding wheel with so called (at least in USSR/Russia) diamond penсil. It' is just metal with big technical diamonds pressed into it.
i think they are called dressing sticks in europe, you can also get stones for dressing diamond wheels but as far as i know they need to be the same thickness as the wheel to be ground to prevent edge wear and promote even dressing.
In the industry, we use a nickle diamond bonded wheel to dress the diamond dressing wheels, not sure of the exact mixture or bonding agent, but hope that helps👍
I am astounded at what I just learned about the inserts. Like you were talking to me! Thanks, also I agree with the physics guys below. It isn't the radiation in the air from the thorium. It is the radiation from the thorium dust in your lungs,..... for the rest of your life. I really need to build some kind of a shop vac for my grinder.
A brake style dresser is what you use for that wheel and it takes a hot minute to true one up. You'll likely take care to not clog the wheel up after you true one for the first time. 😁
Also, 1200 rpm on your lathe it's optimal machining speed, and if your lathe dies down on you, just slow down the feed, but no having coolant might be a problem
Just for kicks, the Sievert is the SI unit of radiation. The REM and the RAD are CGS units but REM (which stands for something like Roentgen Equivalent Measure) interposes a theoretical human body in front of the RAD, and measures "actual" absorption, to the extent that your body resembles the theoretical (really empirical) model. Your cell phone probably produces more microSieverts (uS) than the Thorium rod. Try it sometime, and let us all know. I believe a dental X-ray is something like 5 uS. You can find it all on the 'net.
Both the surface grinder and die grinder are rotating in the same direction, it would probably work better if they were rotating in opposite directions.
Awesome vid. Can't stop watching all the old ones. From one armchair engineer to another, that counter doesn't measure alpha particles, and thorium is an alpha emitter. It's probably picking up some of whatever impurities came out of the factory and their byproducts, but not measuring the thorium itself.
The CNMGs have 8 cutting tips, 4 primary angle ones (80 degree: two per side). And 4 off angled cutting sides. You can see on the ones you showed that all 4 corners have chip breakers. After you use up the 4 primary angles, you then move them over to a multi insert milling head. And I know CNMGs are double-sided since it ended in G, which not only indicates the inserts mounting hole size, but that they are double-sided. Maybe yours are some off cuts that only had one side formed, so maybe samples (one sided representatives of the actual double-sided real versions) though it's more likely that those aren't N or G inserts, just their packaging was. But they still had 4 cutting corners, otherwise you'd never bother putting the chip-breaker on all 4 corners.
Jody from weldingtipsandtricks channel had a video comparing all of them at different settings, and my own limited experience TIGing stuff together with Everlast PowerPro 205 agrees with him 100%, for aluminum - dark blue (2% lanthanated), for DC - gray (ceriated), comparing these 2 - gray ones seemed to hold together better on DC at higher amps and the arc was a bit more stable on low amps (20-30A range with 1.6mm tungsten), for AC the 2% lanthanated is just perfect, almost no balling at reasonable settings for the size of the electrode, I do suspect though that this is somewhat dependent on the machine (not just inverter vs transformer), the shape of the AC impulse, how stable is the voltage on DC etc
Hi am a beginner using a mini lathe , could you please do some thread cutting with one. granted it's far from what you're accustomed to. i just came across your channel . and am glad i did . Thank you so much for your time .
I just sharpened a whole packet of the radio active tungstens the other day, without a mask. I should have watched this first. I might go for the lanthenated electrode
I don't know any chemistry concerning tungsten, I just go by the color. Red tip is good for carbon steel good penetration on thicker steel good all around electrode. Blue tip is ok for thicker stainless, thicker I mean 0.250" and up, gold is excellent for thin stainless, and purple is goog for both, carbon and stainless any thickness very stable and controllable arc. For aluminum green tip should be used. I have used all of these electrodes on Miller Syncrowave 250.
Just saw this video, you may not have been able to do it in 2016, but I just bought a 125cf Full argon tank online. From Amazon. FedEx delivered it too. Pretty sweet.
Thanks for the talk on tungstens, very new to TIG myself, only got blue ones, but from china. Not sure if I am causing problems for myself using what might be shoddy tungstens...
You might be.. but as long as it doesn't frustrate you to the point of quitting.. if they're cheap and they work.. that's hard to argue with. Better tungstens keep their point/shape longer. Not sure how far along you are, but for the record, dipping the tip into the puddle wrecks the expensive tungstens just as fast as the cheap ones. ;) Have fun / be safe!
Well, I really hate the torch so far. Euro style torch from Kemppi. Horrible thing that feels way to large for my hand, stiff cable sheath, no foot pedal. I am looking at your other video about the pedal and have got a diagram from kemppi, their pedals have a circuit board and three pots, which is needed or I would have a 0-300A range on the pedal... I have noticed on videos, that some pedals the switch engages first when fully depressed, and some when you just start to depress the pedal. I wonder which is the better setup.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
I prefer the plutonium rods. They work even when the machine is off.
Unfortunately the whole machine has to be submerged to keep your work from reaching critical mass.
You all probably dont care at all but does someone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?
I somehow lost the password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
@@jacobg5122 Methinks putting a fissile material into a pool of moderating material may be a mistake, but what do I know?
@@Tunkkis
I would tell you to ask someone who's tried it, but alas, I can't find anyone who did and is still alive. I wonder why that is.
I'm no expert on the dangerous radiation levels, but the battery on your Geiger counter gained a bar of charge from lying next to the thing...
what, your geiger counter doesn't have a nucleovoltaic cell for recharging the battery on the go?
Radiating tungsten makes it stay fresher longer
I'm currently a nuclear engineering student and I think that it is pretty cool that there are electrodes that use Thorium. Honestly the dosage you're gonna get isn't bad. If you're a weekend welder, I'd estimate that your average dose from doing a project with thoriated electrodes won't even approach half an mrem. You get more radiation dose than that from something silly like trace radioisotopes in your spouse's body if you sleep together every night (well, maybe not, depends on how recently you got married). Average yearly dose for someone in the U.S. is around 360 mrem, for context.
The main issue, of course, is the possibility of inhaling thorium or thorium oxides. Simple ventilation and a breathing mask should be pretty sufficient, and you want to be especially careful when you're grinding the electrodes that you've got some ventilation going.
Overall it's just a little bit of Thorium, nothing to get your pants in a bunch over. If it was super dangerous California would probably make it illegal or something. Heck, secondhand smoking is MUCH worse than thoriated electrodes could ever be for your health.
I caught this video while I was washing dishes and heard the radioactive talk out of the corner of my ear so I dropped the dishes and rewound to hear it again. I can only tell you that working at a nuclear power plant for 31 years as a Radiation Protection Tech we never concerned ourselves with the tungsten welding tips in regards to occupational radiation exposure and believe me we track many many things in that regard. The tungsten tips were only a concern for us in that they would cause our monitoring devices to alarm when workers forgot they had them in their pockets and tried to exit the site. We would have to head over and confiscate the tungsten and make sure the worker cleared the monitors after that. Love the videos and can't wait to check out some more.
Oh yeah, the old "forgot they were in my pocket" deal.
Funny, this is the only time that thoriated rod's radioactivity has ever posed problems in my experience as well ;-D
@csknives2140 you'd think then that 3 years after my comment I'd be dead or very sick by now but here I am responding to someone who lacks any basic knowledge of the topic at hand.
csknives2140 Other types of power plant are putting out Chernobyl level death rates on a daily basis. Remember, Chernobyl directly caused less than 100 deaths.
Sounds like a cool job! I was watching just waiting for him to point the geiger counter at an open primary power line or the fluorescent lights in his shop and get a reading higher than the tungsten lol. Seeing a home inspection done on a house near the really big power lines with the metal towers holding them up and seeing the inspector get higher radiation readings from the old light tubes in the basement than he got standing right under the power lines was mind blowing
I'm not a machinist, I'm just here for tony's jokes.
big red levy - Becareful, that's how I started... and after a short time I bought a lathe. Now I'm looking for a mill.
the lathe is a gateway machine
@@jakobn4191 I want some machines and my work gets rid of 2 or 3 machines a year. They usually sell for scrap price but unfortunately they ALWAYS off them to the supervisor first. He has 3 mills in his garage and 2 lathes plus a bandsaw and radial arm drill. He still takes the machines and resells them. Greedy bastard
@@jakobn4191 Yep, if someone offers you a lathe, just say NO!
I'm in IT and I still watch it.
That shootnthepoop is a great format, like it very much :)
As for dressing the diamond wheel, youre on the right track, but normaly a silicone carbide wheel is used for that.
I think a lot of boxes of carbide inserts that show up on fleamarkets just got lost at the job ;)
ha! 'lost at the job'.. thanks for the silicon carbide tip.. I'll look for a wheel.
I know this video is pretty old already but several years ago I worked in a manufacturing plant that made crankshafts for earth moving equipment and we had a lot of CNC machines and lathes. The lathes sometimes plunged straight into a 5mm cut (not sure what that is in inches) which used to scare the crap out of me. Some of the other insert based machines took even heavier cuts than that. I still regret not taking videos of the machining. The swarf in the lathes used to hit the window in the safety door like a handful of gravel being thrown against the glass. The lathes used to have about a half inch stream of coolant on the inserts but the other machines cut dry. Only once I experienced this, did I realize that we were only toying with the inserts in all the other machine shops I've worked in. The thing that surprised me even more was how long the inserts lasted taking such aggressive cuts through the hard outer layers of the forgings.
Love the video! I'm a manufacturing engineer at an automotive company- you're talking my language here. For dressing CBN wheels we use a diamond - usually a rotary blade (it's a 4" wheel mounted on a high speed motor). The blades are around $3000 USD. You can use a single point or cluster diamond. I think you may be loading up the wheel with aluminum oxide from the grinding wheel which will not help with making a clean cut. A loaded wheel generates a lot of heat and you can burn the carbide when resharpening (this causes microfractures on the carbide surface which lead to premature failure).
You are spot on with the carbide inserts- need the right machine. 500-800SFM is needed, there's even more exotic inserts (cermets, silicia nitride, CBN) for cutting faster (+1200SFM) or hard material around 60HRc. High pressure coolant around 600-1000psi helps to break the chip. For your finishing: a smaller nose radius (0.4mm), D or V style insert, and positive rake (not double sided
+Adam Kraehling You know I should've tried with the single point diamond. Thanks for tuning in Adam.
When I heard that welding electrodes are radioactive I could barely believert.
Lanthanum and thorium are both weakly radioactive, lanthanum being just slightly more so. Neither is is probably as dangerous as a chest x-ray. Just don't ingest or breath the dust and you'll be OK. Pencil lead is worse than either.
Its so hard to find a good lead pencil nowadays.
@@bytheseaaspirinshop801 pencil lead haven't been lead for decades though? graphite much..
@Supreme Leader Spock Not only is La 139 stable, La 138 has so little radioactivity, it's barely even classified as such, it's been in the earth's crust since it formed and it's half life is insanely long. Granted .09% of that La in the electrode is superficially radioactive, background radiation is likely 3 or 4 times higher than the electrode unless they use a 138 enriched lanthanum in the electrode.
So are gas mantles and "Vaseline Glass" bowls.
I am an electrician and i seriously impressed by TOT's skills in humor and machining and electrical instrumentation and CAD and the list goes on and on and on
Hi Tony, another great video, thanks! About inserts, I was taught a rule of thumb when I was an apprentice, feed rate for good general finish is 1/2 insert tip radius...it works out pretty good as a starting point. Also from experience, on manual lathes if you got stringy rats nests going on with insert tooling a combination of coolant and reducing rpm will help. the heat in the chip makes it maleable so it flows rather than chip breaks.
Physics note: the main decay product of thorium is an alpha particle, which can't penetrate through the housing of your geiger counter, but can still give you a lovely lung cancer if you breathe some thoriated electrode dust.
I don't have the expertise to say whether thoriated electrodes are actually harmful, but I can tell you your geiger counter isn't measuring the dangerous stuff.
Jason Goodman I think all the cigs boilermakers smoke, has contaminated the evidence of this argument! Lol
Jason, this is only partly correct. The alpha particles can't be measured, true. But there are photons too and those can be measured. It shows these rods are slightly radioactive. But they also contain heavy metals.which probably causes a higher risk than the radiation. So don't inhale the dust if you grind this stuff.
Jason Goodman 2
@@woutmoerman711 Better to smoke than rail the dust while grinding?
I've been welding stainless pipes is the food industry for 30 years using them, and I can tell you my lung feels great 😆
Once again your videos are fantastic! Your sense of humor is wonderful and your editing is brilliant
+LemonPie4Me Thanks LP4M!
Those inserts in the orange/bronze package (Iscar WNMG432 TF IC806) are incredible! My team and I use those almost exclusively for roughing Inconel 718. Also, you may already know this, but the CNMG style inserts may only have 4 cutting edges in the 80deg geometry, but they also have 4 cutting edges in 100deg geometry. You can use the 100deg for rough facing and rough boring if you have the correct tool holders. You can really get your money's worth if use all 8 edges!
It is so amazing how you have "evolved" with your videos in three short years. You started out excellent (at this point anyway) and now you are a Master, in 2019.
Yep, carbide demands horsepower. I used to have a couple of machines and it’s amazing how much material you can remove with 62 kilowatts at the spindle, also how much damage can happen really fast if things go wrong. I found button inserts were good for moving a lot of hard material in a small amount of time.
Sir, I find your videos and yourself nothing less than delightful! I am working my way through your library and enjoying the heck out of all of it! If you ever find yourself out in the Northern California area, I would love to buy you a meal and a drink!
I am the ultimate in non-pro, weekend warrior, novice welders, but I have had very good luck with E3 electrodes. I also pretty much stick to 3/32 diameter. I also think the electrodes work better when you keep them out of the puddle, but since I never do that, I don't have a lot of experience here.
Timestamp shortcuts from vid:
Tig Tungsten @0:18
Diamond Wheel Truing @8:25
Insert Tooling @11:20
I'm in the UK, I actually do mail order my gas bottles from Poland...
Polish products are quite rigid and rather in good pice...
This is one of the greatest videos on “carbide vs home lathe “ I’ve ever seen! It’s clear language, straight to the point, and super honest on the benefits x cost and possibility of achieving such benefits. I have some brazed carbide tools but got them used and most are dull. Do you have our plan to have a video on sharpening carbide? I’m sure a couple of us newbies could benefit from a sharpening bits with the necessary tools and supplies list to do it.
Thank you for all of your videos!
I really enjoy your videos and find them extremely informative. I especially enjoy your sense of humor! Please keep them coming. Oh, and don't forget the occasional appearance of your shop helper. I'll bet he's a blast to be around!
+William Garrett Thanks William, and don't worry, he's around. Little too cold down in the shop, but once it warms up I won't be able to keep him outta there. Thanks for watching.
Awesome vid. I really liked seeing the progression from increasing the depth of cuts. Very informative.
I love your humor... It's exactly what bosses think you're doing... They have no idea you're doing magic tricks when you finish a part of 3 different ops in 4 hours
wow, watching this 4 years after the fact clearly shows your improvments made in youtubery.
I have been watching your videos for a few days now. Fantastic. Your humor reminds me of my family, Uncle Rick especially. Learning a great deal from your work here, much appreciated! Keep up the great content!
Hi Tony, years ago I had a job sharpening carbide cut off tools for production machinery, the flat surface would wear into a dip throwing off my angles, I remembered you never sharpen steel on a diamond wheel because it would pull the diamonds out of the bonding material so I used it to my advantage, I dressed the wheel with a block of steel to wear the wheel flat again and it worked good. remember "If it sounds stupid but it works, it's not stupid".
A razor sharp blisteringly hot rat's nest flying at your face 20 times a second is pretty terrifying.
thats why you always keep your face out of the sling line
Imagine one of those but also throwing around your poking stick.
On the insert cutters: I'd love to see your results with a little water based coolant just on the heavy cuts. We do this at work with a squeeze bottle . Your lathe might bog a little less. I think it contaminates the micro-welding that happens and frees up some spindle torque.
Thanks for the good videos, you're on my "watch at home with the kids" list. :) they love it. Haha.
+Morgan Oliff Thanks Morgan and thanks for watching!
I had the same question. Would the coolant also work as a lubricant to help the lathe handle the load. When I did that for a paycheck, the only time coolant got used was on chromed shafting. I was unaware that I should have been putting the screws to it more.
Your love and passion for your hobby are contagious ! Now I have a mini lathe and a mini mill in the apartment ! Feddilin with cheap rotary table to remove the backlash and converting it to a CNC 4th axis.
I wonder if you made something about bearings? I know bearings are a vast topic, but what kind of bearings are suitable for a mini workshop? What are the things that bearing can and can't do ?
Great episode Tony. The carbide insert explanation with the contextual example really cleared up a lot of questions I'd had for a long time. And the Mike Seaver reference was hilarious.
+Kettletrigger Glad I could be of some help. Thanks for watching, Kettle.
Tony, Tony, Tony, the best thing about being a tough guy is pushing around people who are bigger than you, the look of shock on their faces, priceless
An old bubby with one pretty small lathe and one monster with... I swear a six jaw chuck that I can fit my lunchbox into has offered to teach me a few things. I'm watching you to be able to ask intelligent questions. What a great show you have here, thanks.
I am not an advocate of chip hooks either. I was machining a bearing using a large horizontal mill. As an apprentice my job was to sit inside a large structure and pull the birds nest away from the cutting surface. On the final pass the birds nest wrapped around my hand/chip hook and started to pull me into the cutter. I pulled my hand free at the cost of cutting my hand and arm.
As a Skilled Centre (English spelling) Lathe Turner by trade (also retired now), a SWARF (nest/strings/chips) hook is a must have. Love the videos. Cheers.
excellent info on the carbide inserts, thanks very much for sharing. I hadn't thought of swapping out for a smaller tip to finish.
I LOVE 2% LANTH SOOOO MUCH. SUPER WELDING(and the blue is pretty)
Hi mate. Thanks for the explanation of some of the myths surrounding the carbide inserts. I have used them myself, with very varying results, and was not sure why. Perhaps erroneously, the carbide inserts would be the first choice for beginners, because one does not need to be able to grind a HSS blank, and therefore be able to start straight away.
Tony, we always indicated our diamond wheels in. Just make sure you wrap the with Scotch Tape
another good tip! you're a goldmine mpetersen6! Though I hesitate to ask what happened to petersens 1 thru 5.
Hi Tony,
I agree, 2% lanthanated all the way.
I still keep plenty of thoriated around. Thorium is an alpha particle emitter and is about as safe as radioactive particles get. It is absorbed (or blocked) by even thin clothing. The danger it poses is from ingestion when grinding.
+mcleodjm2 Good comment, thanks for watching!
That's what I came here to say. :)
I was a machinist for 20+ years and now a FabLab manager. My opinion would feed more I like about .03 inch per rev for roughing it will break the chip better. I think the key to turning is chip breaking roughing passes, leaving .010 then finish.
Only stumbled on your videos tonight, but feel like I've struck gold! Your snippy comments bring a smile to my face and you've got some skills too :) Keep it up!
+coffeemaddan Doin' my best. Thanks for watching, coffee.
I've heard (I also tend to depend on HSS for most of my turning) that you need to bury the corner radius (cut as deep or deeper than the corner radius) to make the chip breaker geometry work properly. Maybe looking for a smaller tip radius on the same Trigon inserts would let you use the same heavy insert holder for your finishing passes.
Peter W. Meek spot on. Cut depth should be larger then nose radius.
Nice video man. right now I'm taking shop class and it improved my use of the lathe. cheers! thanks for sharing.
Great episode Tony. Think your little finger forgot more than I know about Tig tips...but I trust ya and got my interest up for one size fits all for the home shop. Also liked your perspective on carbide inserts. Think its all about finding balance for what you are doing. Again, Thanks for the time & work to share your thoughts and perspectives...always valuable and a hoot with your humor! ~PJ
+pjsalchemy My pleasure PJ. Thanks, as always.
I'm sorry but now we go metric!
With my limited 25-year experience I use ~100-150 m/min surface speed. That gives ~350-400 rpm at 4" diameter.
Mainly I use only one grade, one chipbreaker but different styles/sizes. Mostly CNMG or TNMG. Then turning hardened needs ceramics or good stuff.
In my opinion the function of the chipbreaker correlates with the tip radius. If I would have the need/possibility to make a shop at home I would do some research:
- How big is the lathe/mill?
- What will I mainly work at?
- What is good toolsize?
- What type of insert is mostly usefull in different applications? Left/right and inside/outside.
When all this is done I would start looking at toolpackages. My guess is that I would end up with three types of inserts: rhombic CCMT for inside turning, 35° VNMG fof the "fiddeling" and then WNMG for "roughing". If time isn't that important remember that 3*1mm is just as much as 1*3mm, but the stress on the machine is much greater with the deeper cut.
Then the disclaimer: my thoughts are based on using machines standing on the floor. I have no idea on what works how on a benchtop machine. We only use shaft size 25*25mm on outside tools and up to 32mm on inside tools.
Have fun, be well and keep safe 👍🏼💪🏼🤗!
Sapphire is used to mill or turn Rubber and like products. Super sharp and hard - removes heat very well. Not a standard cutter.
My TIG guru told me not to faff about with electrodes, just use the gold ones for everything and he was right. Also, use pure argon for aluminium and steel. It is more expensive than argon/CO2 recommended for steel but you only need one bottle for both materials.
Thorium is relatively stable and only emits alpha particles when it decays. Some isotopes of thorium are beta emitters and those are the ones you need to look out for. Doubt they use those in welding rods due to a relatively short half-life. It's likely Thorium 232 and more toxic as a heavy metal than as a radioactive material, like Uranium.
This sort of info is so valuable to the hobbyist. Many thanks!
my pleasure!
I’ve found that stick and tig are Basicly all you’ll ever need as a welder. 4mm and up, especially outside the shop or where structural ability is important, go for stick. 15mm and less, especially where you want looks, no spatter, or need to do things like brazing (my personal favorite), go for tig.
Personaly I use stick on as little as 3mm (1/8 for imperial) and I’ve found it’s fairly easy. If you use a 1/8th 6011 on about 75 amps you can weld 1/8th material.
I was trained on metric and imperial, so it lets me do silly shit like “you need three inches, and like four millimeters.”
I have a nice scar on my thumb from where a birds nest got me as i tried to reach down to turn off the lathe. It wasn't breaking the chip but the strand was falling to the bottom of the machine nicely, then it decided it wanted to grab the whole nest and whip it around at 600 rmp. Fun times
+Lance14352 Sooner or later, they always get ya.
I've always had carbide around the shop but only lately invested into insert tooling. Should have done it years ago as it make for better production times and more consistent results.
Also agree on the tungsten...bought a few types and now settled back to the one..
Great video as usual Tony.
Colin :-)
+CompEdgeX Thanks Colin!
Thanks for the insert knowledge. Your finish with them at 10 thou per rev, is greater than my HSS finishing tool at 1.7. And, I would have to run it at like 200 RPM max on that piece. I don't like my spindle that fast though. So HSS for finishing isn't good for me.
you've probably seen it, but metal tips and tricks has a really good video with an insert sales rep that is very informative, learnt heaps.
I agree. I found it at th-cam.com/video/mmrrsfdVvW4/w-d-xo.html
I had a Miller Diversion and the Thoriated (red) worked well for steel and the pure (green) worked well for aluminum. I now have a Lincoln 200 and the greens don’t work at all for aluminum so I had to go to a zirconiated as the instructions that came with the welder suggested. The zirconiated were not easy to get here (they had to come from across town and took a half day) so I may try the lanthinated next time.
I like My thoriated tungsten, they're easy to find in the dark and sharpen them once and I have a toothpick for life.
Tony... I genuinely enjoy your stuff! May I comment on diamond dressing, I worked in the glass industry for couple decades and we dressed diamond tooling with aluminum oxide stones. Dressing opens the diamonds which can be be glazed over by the metal-bond if they got too hot. We always dressed dry and machined with coolants. Not sure this is applicable when machining metals.
+David Scalise thanks David!
Tony, sorry, I did not notice this video when I asked you to make one on carbide inserts. Always educational, interesting and with added bonus of great humour. Many thanks for your efforts. Joe.
+Joe McIntyre my pleasure, thanks for watching Joe!
+Joe McIntyre my pleasure, thanks for watching Joe!
The Colchester Lathe is an excellent Lathe, you are a very fortunate man.
10:50 the poor surface finish is probably caused by the cutting stone you used on the die grinder. When you rotate it, you can see the material being off center so it's probably pretty unbalanced. Stating the obvious, that will make it vibrate! :)
Good point, thanks!
Dunno if someone else commented on this, but it's not very necessary to true the dressing wheel. It will true itself when you contact. Our wheel dressers wobble visually when you mount a new wheel but that lasts only about 0.1 seconds as the action of trueing consumes that material. Also, what will help is frequent dressing with a dressing stick or something. This would not change the geometry of the wheel, so if you start getting taper, out of round, and or radii it won't help you. But it will declog the wheel and lead to better cutting action and cooler part surfaces.
And to avoid making a second comment in the other video, gashing is indeed usually done with an angled wheel, and a sort of common practice is to have your gash just barely kiss the very tip of the corner (dubbing) to increase corner strength. On a small to no radius tool, this will show up as a very very tiny shiny spot when looking at the face of the cutter, like a twinkling star.
I really like your style of video and very informative Thanks for taking the time to do them.
+Brett Zahler Thanks Brett, and thanks for watching.
Hey if anyone is sceptical about the thoriated rods, just check how old is the guy you are buying them from. I mean he must be surrounded by tons to those. And if he is safe then it must be pretty safe( I guess).
I am new to the this old tony scene. However after a dozen or so video’s I am a huge fan. I am also glad to see you using Sandvik inserts. It keeps me employed. Lol
I've been welding professionally for close to seven years. 2% lanthanated are my preferred electrodes for a.c. and D.C.
When dressing the grinding wheel the dresser should be free spinning. Use a red pencil to load the grinding wheel so you can see where and how much you need to dress it. The dressing wheel is usually a grey color and has a fixture for it that locks down to a mag chuck with an option of T-bolts
this kind of humor ! i could eat that all day you re awsome ! keep it on !
For the grand majority of tig welding, the specific composition of your electrode doesn't matter. Just make sure it's tungsten.
As long as you have a good idea how to control the puddle, add filler and make a nice weld through and through, you'll be fine.
Hey Tony, lanthanum replaced the zirconium just because of the radiation. And you can weld everything with it! Overhere they are supposed to be taken out of the market. Great shows, exelent sense of humor.
I really enjoy your videos. I'm going to start doing some general shopy type videos and you're my benchmark. Well and Ave:)
Thanks Kenny .. let us know when you have something up, always fun to see what other people do in their shops/garages.
I dont know anything about what hes saying im 15 in highschool. I just love the way you explain stuff and you make it interesting
Carbide tooling gets a bad name sometimes because it is so specialized. If you use a roughing insert designed for cast iron you're not going to get a nice surface finish on aluminum. For my home shop I use carbide almost exclusively. I love carbide threading inserts because the geometry is always perfect. For turning I like the Kennametal medium-positive inserts for negative rake tool holders. Stuff like WNMG (the N means neutral) or other _NMG shapes such as C, D, T, and V. These are great for generally removing material and passable surface finishes on most steels and aluminum. You can get sharpened inserts as well, which I prefer for light finishing passes. Look for a G (ground) instead of an M (molded) in that 3rd letter, such as TNGG, CCGT, etc. High speed steel works great if you don't mind grinding stuff all the time. I just find it so much easier to swap out a cutting edge on the insert and keep on truckin'. The vast majority of my projects are on diameters between .250 and 1.250" running at 910 rpm. Why 910? Because that's the fastest gear I have that runs smooth and quiet. 1250 works ok but the chips fly out a lot faster, the lathe is a bit noisier, and I don't notice much increased performance. 1800 rpm is loud and scary, with the vibration always showing up in my surface finishes. Some day I'll upgrade from my chinese 14x40.
Love your videos Tony. I’d love to see you make a raintrain type self propelled sprinkler from scratch.
You also can fix your grinding wheel with so called (at least in USSR/Russia) diamond penсil. It' is just metal with big technical diamonds pressed into it.
i think they are called dressing sticks in europe, you can also get stones for dressing diamond wheels but as far as i know they need to be the same thickness as the wheel to be ground to prevent edge wear and promote even dressing.
Great video. You don't necessarily need a smaller insert for finishing, just a smaller nose radius.
The first time I bought inserts and tooling I spent over $145,000 just on Sandovik Coromant for my uncles engineers and shop. I had a lot of fun.
Squaring off the end of your electrode Works amazing
Ur awesome, simply the Best videos on TH-cam! They're very informative and funny. If you're ever looking for a apprentice let me know
In the industry, we use a nickle diamond bonded wheel to dress the diamond dressing wheels, not sure of the exact mixture or bonding agent, but hope that helps👍
More of this please!
Edit: i'm talking about this shootin the poop style video.
I am astounded at what I just learned about the inserts. Like you were talking to me! Thanks, also I agree with the physics guys below. It isn't the radiation in the air from the thorium. It is the radiation from the thorium dust in your lungs,..... for the rest of your life. I really need to build some kind of a shop vac for my grinder.
Diamond wheels, especially higher grit, love super hard metal alloy dress sticks. 3/8 X 2 = $200, pretty pricey but well worth it
A brake style dresser is what you use for that wheel and it takes a hot minute to true one up. You'll likely take care to not clog the wheel up after you true one for the first time. 😁
I wonder what the split is on the did/didn't google mike seever.
Also, 1200 rpm on your lathe it's optimal machining speed, and if your lathe dies down on you, just slow down the feed, but no having coolant might be a problem
Thorium is pretty safe. It is a very stable isotope. I would be comfortable using them.
Just for kicks, the Sievert is the SI unit of radiation. The REM and the RAD are CGS units but REM (which stands for something like Roentgen Equivalent Measure) interposes a theoretical human body in front of the RAD, and measures "actual" absorption, to the extent that your body resembles the theoretical (really empirical) model. Your cell phone probably produces more microSieverts (uS) than the Thorium rod. Try it sometime, and let us all know. I believe a dental X-ray is something like 5 uS. You can find it all on the 'net.
+Juan Rivero Thank you Juan.
I sure like watching your video.s, thanks for sharing
John
+imystery man Thanks for watching John!
I’d be awesome if you’d do a very beginner video. Like set up or your welder then what all you need to weld, then slowly work into welding tips v
Both the surface grinder and die grinder are rotating in the same direction, it would probably work better if they were rotating in opposite directions.
Awesome vid. Can't stop watching all the old ones. From one armchair engineer to another, that counter doesn't measure alpha particles, and thorium is an alpha emitter. It's probably picking up some of whatever impurities came out of the factory and their byproducts, but not measuring the thorium itself.
The CNMGs have 8 cutting tips, 4 primary angle ones (80 degree: two per side). And 4 off angled cutting sides. You can see on the ones you showed that all 4 corners have chip breakers. After you use up the 4 primary angles, you then move them over to a multi insert milling head. And I know CNMGs are double-sided since it ended in G, which not only indicates the inserts mounting hole size, but that they are double-sided. Maybe yours are some off cuts that only had one side formed, so maybe samples (one sided representatives of the actual double-sided real versions) though it's more likely that those aren't N or G inserts, just their packaging was. But they still had 4 cutting corners, otherwise you'd never bother putting the chip-breaker on all 4 corners.
Those little guys are ccgt's.
Jody from weldingtipsandtricks channel had a video comparing all of them at different settings, and my own limited experience TIGing stuff together with Everlast PowerPro 205 agrees with him 100%, for aluminum - dark blue (2% lanthanated), for DC - gray (ceriated), comparing these 2 - gray ones seemed to hold together better on DC at higher amps and the arc was a bit more stable on low amps (20-30A range with 1.6mm tungsten), for AC the 2% lanthanated is just perfect, almost no balling at reasonable settings for the size of the electrode, I do suspect though that this is somewhat dependent on the machine (not just inverter vs transformer), the shape of the AC impulse, how stable is the voltage on DC etc
Cnmg has 8 cutting Edge on 2 different shank . Ccmt is the neutral rake with 2 edge
Hi am a beginner using a mini lathe , could you please do some thread cutting with one. granted it's far from what you're accustomed to. i just came across your channel . and am glad i did . Thank you so much for your time .
I just sharpened a whole packet of the radio active tungstens the other day, without a mask. I should have watched this first. I might go for the lanthenated electrode
I don't know any chemistry concerning tungsten, I just go by the color. Red tip is good for carbon steel good penetration on thicker steel good all around electrode. Blue tip is ok for thicker stainless, thicker I mean 0.250" and up, gold is excellent for thin stainless, and purple is goog for both, carbon and stainless any thickness very stable and controllable arc. For aluminum green tip should be used. I have used all of these electrodes on Miller Syncrowave 250.
Just saw this video, you may not have been able to do it in 2016, but I just bought a 125cf Full argon tank online. From Amazon. FedEx delivered it too. Pretty sweet.
Thanks for the talk on tungstens, very new to TIG myself, only got blue ones, but from china. Not sure if I am causing problems for myself using what might be shoddy tungstens...
You might be.. but as long as it doesn't frustrate you to the point of quitting.. if they're cheap and they work.. that's hard to argue with. Better tungstens keep their point/shape longer. Not sure how far along you are, but for the record, dipping the tip into the puddle wrecks the expensive tungstens just as fast as the cheap ones. ;) Have fun / be safe!
Well, I really hate the torch so far. Euro style torch from Kemppi. Horrible thing that feels way to large for my hand, stiff cable sheath, no foot pedal.
I am looking at your other video about the pedal and have got a diagram from kemppi, their pedals have a circuit board and three pots, which is needed or I would have a 0-300A range on the pedal...
I have noticed on videos, that some pedals the switch engages first when fully depressed, and some when you just start to depress the pedal. I wonder which is the better setup.