For a lot of clutches, you need to be really careful opening it up and here’s why. I took off the pressure plate and saw the steel and friction plates and right in the middle of the basket there was the top hat screw. (The screw that connects to the clutch rod) but in between the clutch rod and the screw is a little steel ball just a little smaller than a marble. If your clutch won’t disengage, make sure to find an expansion picture of your clutch and see if you need to have one in there.
My 2000 yz 250 has that steel ball. I dropped it on the ground. Got lucky I found it. My service manual does not show one though. Not sure if its needed.
Hi, On the push rod, at both end there are small added extensions, both with threads. I found both ends are loose and rotating free even after having threads on both ends. Should they be free wheeling or should they be tight? I am working on 82' XV750 Virago clutch. Thanks.
thank you, Justin. This is another video from Rocky Mtn and you that is informative and practical. Many thanks! P.S. this is just what I needed to resolve a problem
i dont mean to be so offtopic but does someone know a tool to get back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid lost the account password. I would love any tips you can give me
@Ryland Larry I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I have 2006 yz 125 I have removed clutch clutch is(visually) good springs good ball in place fresh oil, re adjusted clutch checked clutch cable cable not stretched, bike cranks first kick, idles fine, while bike idling in neutral when I shift into 1st gear with clutch lever pulled the bike stalls out. when I first removed clutch and put back together with fresh oil the bike did not stall until about 10 sec and it stall then every start up and shift into first it will stall again.. any insight welcome
please reply i have a 2009 yz125 and i just ordered a pull arm and push rod from you guys but when i tried to change the push rod it i couldn’t find it it’s like it wasn’t even there in the little hole
@@rmatvmc Hey my names Jackson and I own a 73’ rl250 and My clutch worked perfect before I took off the cover that my clutch cable goes into and I put it back on and my clutch stopped working do you have any idea what happening
I have a 2016 yz250f, I took off the the stator cover to try to get to the actuator arm, but it's not there, it's more to the right, and it seems like I have to split the cases just to get to it which I'm not trying to do, anyone know about this? Also if neither the push rod or actuator arm are worn out on my bike, then how come the pull of it is still notchy and hard? I checked the push rod, cleaned the perch/cable, and checked all the plates and springs, everything seems good, the only thing left is the actuator arm, and if it's not that then what could it be?
my son has a yz85, the clutch cable seems to be to long. The cable has the tension loosened all the way out and the tension screw is all the way out but it still has a lot of play in the handle? its a new cable for the bike. Any suggestions?
Could this turn a normal clutch pull into a 3-4 finger pull? Just wondering if it'll make that much of a difference. My clutch is extremely hard to pull, I changed the clutch shaft but not the push rod and it honestly didn't make much difference.
Be sure the pushrod is engaging properly (long enough). I have an 04 yz250 that the clutch pull was super hard because of where the arm was making contact. I had about an 1/8 inch gap until the pushrod made contact with the clutch pressure plate.
I have a 2012 yz 125 and I do not have that bolt that releases the actuator arm and I took out that rod that comes out the other side from the clutch plate side and still no luck to get that actuator arm out....help...
*The Outdoor Project* Not all bike models will have this. This process was performed on a 2004 YZ250. You're on the right track. You should be able to wiggle it up and down, while pulling out. If you have the pressure plate and push rod out, that should do the trick. Let us know if you run into any other questions.
Ok. Go to our *OEM Parts* page and type in your bikes year, make and model. From there you will need to select the assembly for the parts you are looking for. Here is the link. If you have any other questions, let us know! www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts/Yamaha
There is not a single video on the internet that shows how to do this for a 2 stroke engine. Does anyone know how to remove this from a 2 stroke clutch cover. Please for the love of all things holy
I have a 2002 yz85, and it has a problem with the clutch. The clutch does not disengage fully when you pull in the lever, if you have it in gear and pull in the clutch lever, you will not be able to roll the bike, it will still turn the engine over as if the clutch lever was still out. If the bike is running and you put it in gear with the clutch lever in it will just stall out, I have tried messing with the cable adjustments, it also has a brand new clutch cable on, and still havent fixed the problem. People online say the basket could be worn, could there be any other possibilites? A clutch basket is pretty expensive (about 200 dollars) and I am wondering if it could be anything else. Could it also be something such as a worn or bent clutch push rod or actuator arm?
Thanks for contacting us. Have you already torn into your clutch then? The issue could be the things you are mentioning, motorcycle clutches have really tight tolerances and if a clutch rod, lifter arm, basket or clutch plates are worn, trying to get the clutch adjusted right wil be hard. I would recommend you start with a new clutch pack kit w/springs and some fresh transmission oil. Then go from there. While you are in there replacing your clutch, look for grooving on the clutch baskets fingers and clutch boss. For sure refer to your service manual for the proper specs. Then move to your push rod and clutch arm. Another great tool to use is the OEM Parts Finder Page on our website. Here, you can enter your machine make and model and check out the *clutch* assembly and make sure you have all the parts and their specific order they go in. Let us know if you have more questions, thanks for watching!
I have just torn into the clutch today, and the basket looks very worn. My friend has a used clutch from one of his bikes that he parted out that barely has any use on it, I will put that on and see how it works out! Thanks.
yeah it fixed it. if your basket isnt grooved at all then the problem is coming from something else, could be a stretched cable, bent pushrod, or maybe just needs some new plates/springs. Your inner hub could also be grooved too, so make sure that isnt grooved at all.
*John Klause* this was done on a 2004 YZ250. Not all bikes are the same. I recommend you follow your bikes service manual. They should list the steps to take. You may need to take your clutch cover, clutch pressure plate and rod in order to pull your acturating arm? Let us know what your find out. Thanks
*Moto_Nerd* sounds like you either need a new clutch pack or need to adjust your clutch cable? I would recommend you give those a try and go from there. See if that fixes. Let us know what you find out. Thanks for watching.
I had clutch slipping over 50% trottle, i changed the clutch plates and put it back together. The clutch is still slipping and now it makes the sound as well. I thought that i loosened something when i took it apart, but have rebuilt it 4 times now. (cable was changed before any of the problems and it ran no problem)
The clutch on my 2004 KX125 won't disengage. For example, if I pull in the clutch and put it in gear it will jerk forward then stall. It seems to disengage a little better when the bike is warm. I'm completely out of cable adjustment with about .5cm-1cm of freeplay still in the lever, however the clutch isnt hard to pull. Could these two parts be the culprit?
Your stock cable should have a second adjuster on there so check that out and make sure you don't just need to adjust that one as well. After that, I would suggest replacing the cable and see if that solves your problem!
Are you talking about the adjuster right before the cable goes into the case? That one is out too, haha. Ill try a new cable and see if that work. If not Ill just inspect the whole clutch. I have a pushrod and arm on hand. Hopefully I can sort it out. Thank you
@@clarkecollins2691 I ended up replacing the pushrod and the lever in the case, replaced the cable and also put in new plates and springs. I also decided to use a quick adjust lever for good measure. Has worked like a charm since.
*Its Apollo* Sounds like you're possibly having a problem with your clutch push rod? I would tear the clutch down and see what is going on inside. Let us know what you find out. Thanks.
*Luke Baehr -* these clutch component parts will be found in the OEM Schematics under the *Clutch* assembly. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts/Kawasaki
@@kippnovak3740 oh helll yeah!!! I got a 1986 cr250r. Shes a monster, i nicknamed her the red bastard. Im slowly restoring it and hopefully ill get too race around soon
A friend was riding my 2013 yfz 450 he down shifted with out using the clutch from 4th to second gear and something grinded and my clutch stopped working so I ajusted the clutch at the clutch arm and it worked going up the gears but made a winding noise then when I down shifted got to 2nd gear and it stopped working again I would like to know what might have happened
On my wr250r ,when I noticed the problem at 10,000 km , the clutch would engage instantly at the end of clutch lever release , instead of grabbing instantly upon release gradually engaging the clutch
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
Rocky mountain always have the best videos
For a lot of clutches, you need to be really careful opening it up and here’s why. I took off the pressure plate and saw the steel and friction plates and right in the middle of the basket there was the top hat screw. (The screw that connects to the clutch rod) but in between the clutch rod and the screw is a little steel ball just a little smaller than a marble. If your clutch won’t disengage, make sure to find an expansion picture of your clutch and see if you need to have one in there.
Awesome. Thanks
Can you clarify where this ball is, sorry it was a bit confusing. Maybe I just read it wrong
My 2000 yz 250 has that steel ball. I dropped it on the ground. Got lucky I found it. My service manual does not show one though. Not sure if its needed.
Some models have a ball bearing under the hat or “throw out bearing” which pushes the pressure plate off the clutch disks.
u guys shouldve shown how the clutch was acting before the fix either way definitely helped out thank you!!
Thanks for quick & straight to the point video! Love RMATV
Thanks for watching and glad you liked it!
Hi, On the push rod, at both end there are small added extensions, both with threads. I found both ends are loose and rotating free even after having threads on both ends. Should they be free wheeling or should they be tight? I am working on 82' XV750 Virago clutch. Thanks.
thank you, Justin. This is another video from Rocky Mtn and you that is informative and practical. Many thanks! P.S. this is just what I needed to resolve a problem
i dont mean to be so offtopic but does someone know a tool to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid lost the account password. I would love any tips you can give me
@Kash Trevor instablaster ;)
@Ryland Larry I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Ryland Larry it worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my account :D
@Kash Trevor glad I could help =)
I have 2006 yz 125 I have removed clutch clutch is(visually) good springs good ball in place fresh oil, re adjusted clutch checked clutch cable cable not stretched, bike cranks first kick, idles fine, while bike idling in neutral when I shift into 1st gear with clutch lever pulled the bike stalls out. when I first removed clutch and put back together with fresh oil the bike did not stall until about 10 sec and it stall then every start up and shift into first it will stall again.. any insight welcome
please reply i have a 2009 yz125 and i just ordered a pull arm and push rod from you guys but when i tried to change the push rod it i couldn’t find it it’s like it wasn’t even there in the little hole
this is super helpful, i think this is culprit to my fz09's clutch after it got knocked over
my left hand and yz250 thanks you,great video. i wondered why the new cable seem so long.
Glad we cool help you out. Thanks for watching.
You really helped me on this. Thanks for this video. Now i know what's wrong with my bike.
We're happy to help! Thanks for watching.
@@rmatvmc Hey my names Jackson and I own a 73’ rl250 and My clutch worked perfect before I took off the cover that my clutch cable goes into and I put it back on and my clutch stopped working do you have any idea what happening
I have 1996 YZ 250 and pushrod is stuck and cannot pull out. What do I do?
I just pulled out the actuating arm out of about halfway when replacing the clutch cable. There doesn’t seem to be any tension. Please help!
Such a detailed and helpful video . Spot on .
Huge help thank y’all so so much💯💯
At the 4:26 mark the seal you mentioned. If it's bad will transmission oil leak into flywheel housing?
What does it mean when the clutch lever moves freely with out tension when the cable it off
My clutch keeps breaking pushrods, new rod and actuator, any ideas?
My clutch actuator arm always tearing down after a short time. What can i do? Cant find reinforced actuators. (suzuki dr 125)
I have a 2016 yz250f, I took off the the stator cover to try to get to the actuator arm, but it's not there, it's more to the right, and it seems like I have to split the cases just to get to it which I'm not trying to do, anyone know about this? Also if neither the push rod or actuator arm are worn out on my bike, then how come the pull of it is still notchy and hard? I checked the push rod, cleaned the perch/cable, and checked all the plates and springs, everything seems good, the only thing left is the actuator arm, and if it's not that then what could it be?
What is the length size of the blaster 200 rods?
my son has a yz85, the clutch cable seems to be to long. The cable has the tension loosened all the way out and the tension screw is all the way out but it still has a lot of play in the handle? its a new cable for the bike. Any suggestions?
Can too much wear cause the clutch not to disengage properly?
lol my dirt bike has a push rod engine. the model is ZS167FMM
I rebuilt my rmz250 and now the cable is too long but it worked perfect before why is this happening ?
Bikelife Cam your cable might’ve came out of adjustment search up a video and it should take 5 mins
Is the clutch rod in a “sealed” hole? Does that cover at the end seal it or does the oil lubricate it as well?
everything is perfect except using a torque wrench to loosen the flywheel
Modern Torque Wrenches are directional, where have you been living Dhanajay!?!
I have a 2001 yz250f, looked on your website and couldnt find the actuating arm or push rod..
*David Derrick* You will find these parts in our OEM Parts Finder under the *clutch* schematic. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts/Yamaha
Could this turn a normal clutch pull into a 3-4 finger pull? Just wondering if it'll make that much of a difference. My clutch is extremely hard to pull, I changed the clutch shaft but not the push rod and it honestly didn't make much difference.
It could be your clutch springs mate
Be sure the pushrod is engaging properly (long enough). I have an 04 yz250 that the clutch pull was super hard because of where the arm was making contact. I had about an 1/8 inch gap until the pushrod made contact with the clutch pressure plate.
I have a 2012 yz 125 and I do not have that bolt that releases the actuator arm and I took out that rod that comes out the other side from the clutch plate side and still no luck to get that actuator arm out....help...
*The Outdoor Project* Not all bike models will have this. This process was performed on a 2004 YZ250. You're on the right track. You should be able to wiggle it up and down, while pulling out. If you have the pressure plate and push rod out, that should do the trick. Let us know if you run into any other questions.
Video on clutch arm bearing change?
1100. Honda shadow cluth pen
I have a yamaha rs110f. And i'd like to look for these parts.
Ok. Go to our *OEM Parts* page and type in your bikes year, make and model. From there you will need to select the assembly for the parts you are looking for. Here is the link. If you have any other questions, let us know! www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts/Yamaha
Great video, but don't use your torque wrench to break bolts loose.
Then how are you suppose to torc reverse threaded nuts? They're designed to torc both ways. It's not bad for them.
There is not a single video on the internet that shows how to do this for a 2 stroke engine. Does anyone know how to remove this from a 2 stroke clutch cover. Please for the love of all things holy
Tq bos.. From 🇲🇾
Would those parts make the clutch grabby? No matter how much I try to adjust the cable when I pull the clutch in and put it in 1st gear it grabs
I have the same problem. Were you able to fix it? Need advice thanks
I have a 2002 yz85, and it has a problem with the clutch. The clutch does not disengage fully when you pull in the lever, if you have it in gear and pull in the clutch lever, you will not be able to roll the bike, it will still turn the engine over as if the clutch lever was still out. If the bike is running and you put it in gear with the clutch lever in it will just stall out, I have tried messing with the cable adjustments, it also has a brand new clutch cable on, and still havent fixed the problem. People online say the basket could be worn, could there be any other possibilites? A clutch basket is pretty expensive (about 200 dollars) and I am wondering if it could be anything else. Could it also be something such as a worn or bent clutch push rod or actuator arm?
Thanks for contacting us. Have you already torn into your clutch then? The issue could be the things you are mentioning, motorcycle clutches have really tight tolerances and if a clutch rod, lifter arm, basket or clutch plates are worn, trying to get the clutch adjusted right wil be hard. I would recommend you start with a new clutch pack kit w/springs and some fresh transmission oil. Then go from there. While you are in there replacing your clutch, look for grooving on the clutch baskets fingers and clutch boss. For sure refer to your service manual for the proper specs. Then move to your push rod and clutch arm. Another great tool to use is the OEM Parts Finder Page on our website. Here, you can enter your machine make and model and check out the *clutch* assembly and make sure you have all the parts and their specific order they go in. Let us know if you have more questions, thanks for watching!
I have just torn into the clutch today, and the basket looks very worn. My friend has a used clutch from one of his bikes that he parted out that barely has any use on it, I will put that on and see how it works out! Thanks.
icantcomeupwithaname did it fix your clutch issue I'm having same problem with my yz426 but basket looks new
yeah it fixed it. if your basket isnt grooved at all then the problem is coming from something else, could be a stretched cable, bent pushrod, or maybe just needs some new plates/springs. Your inner hub could also be grooved too, so make sure that isnt grooved at all.
how could you do this on a 2006 crf250r i cant find a video please help
I can't find the bolt to release actuator arm on my 07 Kx 250? Anyone know?
*John Klause* this was done on a 2004 YZ250. Not all bikes are the same. I recommend you follow your bikes service manual. They should list the steps to take. You may need to take your clutch cover, clutch pressure plate and rod in order to pull your acturating arm? Let us know what your find out. Thanks
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Thank you that was the next step.
What if it broke in the motor?
I have a yamaha yzf-r125. When i pull in the clutch lever in neutral it makes grinding noices. Could this be the problem?
*Moto_Nerd* sounds like you either need a new clutch pack or need to adjust your clutch cable? I would recommend you give those a try and go from there. See if that fixes. Let us know what you find out. Thanks for watching.
I had clutch slipping over 50% trottle, i changed the clutch plates and put it back together. The clutch is still slipping and now it makes the sound as well. I thought that i loosened something when i took it apart, but have rebuilt it 4 times now. (cable was changed before any of the problems and it ran no problem)
What year is your sport bike? Have you looke at the OEM Parts Schematic to check the order everything goes back together as well?
it is a 08. Mounted everything back together as it was suposed to. Think a spring or something lost slack when i opened?
Here is a link to my youtube video where i show the problem. th-cam.com/video/GLaipdRewxk/w-d-xo.html
The clutch on my 2004 KX125 won't disengage. For example, if I pull in the clutch and put it in gear it will jerk forward then stall. It seems to disengage a little better when the bike is warm. I'm completely out of cable adjustment with about .5cm-1cm of freeplay still in the lever, however the clutch isnt hard to pull. Could these two parts be the culprit?
Your stock cable should have a second adjuster on there so check that out and make sure you don't just need to adjust that one as well. After that, I would suggest replacing the cable and see if that solves your problem!
Are you talking about the adjuster right before the cable goes into the case? That one is out too, haha. Ill try a new cable and see if that work. If not Ill just inspect the whole clutch. I have a pushrod and arm on hand. Hopefully I can sort it out. Thank you
@@adamkinch5807 did you ever solve this problem??
@@clarkecollins2691 I ended up replacing the pushrod and the lever in the case, replaced the cable and also put in new plates and springs. I also decided to use a quick adjust lever for good measure. Has worked like a charm since.
@@adamkinch5807 predicate the response I think that's my issue its about the only thing left
Hey Rocky Mountain ATV super helpful video, Are you Guys shipping to Canada during Covid-19? Thanks.
You bet, we are still shipping to Canada! Thanks for checking out the video.
Sorry will you be shipping this part? i need a push rod and actuator cam for clutch 06yz250
What if the clutch arm seal is leaking oil when you're riding? Would it be the same issues?
firewind10100
Just put a new seal in. Easy fix.
So to replace the cable you need all them special tools.
Naa that was to take flywheel off
What if the clutch arm has no tension? What is happening there?
*Its Apollo* Sounds like you're possibly having a problem with your clutch push rod? I would tear the clutch down and see what is going on inside. Let us know what you find out. Thanks.
thanks for the advice,ill get to it
Did you find your solution? My buddy is having the same issue
fuckyou I got rid of that bike,but I believe it is the push rod
Were fo you buy these parts? ?
*terry Shrader* On our OEM Parts Finder Page. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts
Is this a problem my bike is too european to have?
I cant find these parts for my 2005 kx250 does anyone know where i would find that
*Luke Baehr -* these clutch component parts will be found in the OEM Schematics under the *Clutch* assembly. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts/Kawasaki
4:25 That's what I'm here for. I wish you didn't slip the seal changing part 🤦🏻♂️. Great video though!
Did you change that oil seal? If so was it hard.
Hello
How rare is a Honda cr250 2 stroke?
I got a 2000 cr250 2 smoker...with the woody wood pecker graphics...its a beast...still racing cra hare scrambles every sunday...my fun day...lol
@@kippnovak3740 oh helll yeah!!! I got a 1986 cr250r. Shes a monster, i nicknamed her the red bastard. Im slowly restoring it and hopefully ill get too race around soon
@@nicolaskuhnert5702 id like 2 c a video of that red bastard after shes done...may b do a b4 & after video...that would b sick...
@@kippnovak3740 yeah im doing some odd jobs for parts money, i got it running a few times but it has a clutch that wont disengage and a leaky radiator
@@nicolaskuhnert5702 good luck bro...
can you do it with out some of the tools like the flywheel holder
My clutch arm doesn't disengage, what is going on?
You broke the push rod inside
I can’t find these two parts on your guys website? Can you help me. I have a 1998 Honda cr125
22850-KZ4-A90, 22810-KS6-700 here are the two part numbers you need!
@@rmatvmc What about a 97 YZ 250?
I can’t find the Arm for my bike.. Help
what bike are you on?
Rocky Mountain ATV MC 2007 CR125
A friend was riding my 2013 yfz 450 he down shifted with out using the clutch from 4th to second gear and something grinded and my clutch stopped working so I ajusted the clutch at the clutch arm and it worked going up the gears but made a winding noise then when I down shifted got to 2nd gear and it stopped working again I would like to know what might have happened
Tommy Hull 😧😧😧
Yamaha Mulah. lol that was alot of help thanks..
the tank is so weird
That's what I was thinking
first
On my wr250r ,when I noticed the problem at 10,000 km , the clutch would engage instantly at the end of clutch lever release , instead of grabbing instantly upon release gradually engaging the clutch
Rocky mountain always have the best videos
After i changed my clutch on a xr250R the pushrod is shaking in and out is that normal?