Front lower control arm removal and re-bushing Focus RS mk2/ST225/XR5 Turbo. OEM Denied Performance
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ย. 2024
- Walkthrough on how to remove front lower control arms and re-bushing on Focus RS mk2 / ST225 / XR5 Turbo
Please view our other video for ball joint replacement
Bushing kits available from www.focusonperf...
Step by step by OEM Denied Performance - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![เขามัทรี - เอ็กซ์ ศุภกฤต - จอนนี่มิวสิค [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AS9ufKuQIVs/mqdefault.jpg)
Loving the ST225 / RS content really helpful. I'm subbed
Excellent video as always mate, I was thinking how lucky you Guys are in Australia with no road salt like here in the UK right now with our winter, the damn salt eats our cars and all the bolts and fastners are a nightmare to undo, My wife's daily is a 14 year old ST225 we've owned from new and I changed the front arms 2 years ago but cheated and bought the complete arms ;)
I know your pain. :( Our roads in the UK are shocking
Here I was waiting for you to do a cheeky little pull in Rogers car. 😂
Very informative and helpful video 👍👍👍👍
Great video mate. You mentioned you have installed a lot of Whiteline rear bushes (anti lift) on these, i put one on my RS mk2 yesterday + a Powerflex black bush on the front, and it was a complete nightmare to install as neither bush had any play in them. When i had both wishbones back on the car i ended up with absolutely huge toe-out on the front, is this normal? The installation guide states "housing can be slid forward or
backward to engage positive location on the Flat Washer- Large that has been installed over the spigot on the control arm." Not sure what they mean by this, should one not just slide the bush as far in as it goes on the wishbone spigot and then tighten?
slide the large washer all the way down the control arm then slide the anti lift kit bushing on. Fit the arm to the car and drop the 2 mounting bolts through the subframe and the anti lift kit. Then using a transmission jack apply pressure to the underside of the arm where the front bushing is and it will allow you to line it up to insert the bolt, fit the ball joint into the knuckle. Then tighten all bolts finger tight, tap the anti lift housing as far as it will go forward with a copper mallet then tighten all bolts. Sounds like maybe you have the whiteline bushes on the opposite sides, ensure that the flat section is facing upwards.
Do the bushes go the same way for left and right side? With the casings where you insert the bush one ends flat other ends curved if you put them in the flat end one bush left side it's round the other way can you confirm that's right cheers
depends on the manufacturer of them. We dont use bushings that require pressing into the original casing, only ones that are a full replacement as used in the video. Best to contact manufacturer of the bushings you've bought
@OEMDeniedPerformance yes these are full replacement ones made by PSB with the old bushes I used blow torch to remove the rubber then I used a hacksaw and chisel to take out the bush metal casings. Then sanded both down ready for new bushes on looking the bigger part of new bush on the right side with head light leveler is at the front and the left side it's at the back just wanted to no if thats correct sorry I should of explained better
@@JamieGiddings youre best off contacting PSB, never dealt with them so unwise for me to advise on their product sorry
can the larger bushing be replaced without needing a new bracket?
yes but you have to be very careful removing so as to not damage the bracket.
Have you tried just taking the control arm off without anything else
vehicle in video is a RS mk2 so you have to take the sway bar ball joint mounting nut off otherwise you wont get the correct angle to release the ball joint from the knuckle and put it back in again, same with the driveshaft retaining bolt and the tie rod end. On the ST you can just remove the lower control arm ball joint nut, driveshaft retaining bolt and the tied rod end but for the time it takes and ease of reassembly it is better to remove the sway bar link nut from the strut to allow the strut to move further. With uprated poly bushes they have a lot less give so reassembly is harder work than taking apart. Sometimes its quicker to remove more than to remove less and fight it all when putting back together if that makes sense.
Do you have any experience with the Whiteline bump steer correction kit? I'm lowered about 40mm on coilovers and get quite a bit of bump steer
dead easy to fit mate, do have to remove the subframe with steering rack as 1 to do it though but not a tricky job to do
@@OEMDeniedPerformance cheers mate, does it make enough of a difference for it to be worth doing?
@@ryanwainwright8025 yeah doesnt take that long to do and does make it a nicer drive I think . Dont get many people asking me to fit them though
Do you find there's a substantial increase to NVH when changing the suspension bushings to polyurethene?
nah not really mate. You feel more vibrations and knocks with flogged out stock suspension to be totally honest. You'll find with poly bushes the car just feels nice and tight to drive, bit like it would have when it was brand new but that tiny bit more
@@OEMDeniedPerformance Thanks, do you guys have an email, I'd like to ask a couple of questions on replacing suspension bushings as mine are all shot.
@@bensongwydion9299 yes mate info@oemdenied.com but can also reach us on FB facebook.com/oemdeniedpage
Good job Guy ;oP
I live in the uk how can i get a set of these bushes
we can ship internationally, shoot an email over to info@oemdenied.com
Have you done this on diesel ? Does it vibrate ?
Dont work in diesels at all so no I havent sorry
Hey :) Do you know what is the best way to change front sway bar bushing on st225?
drop subframe down whilst leaving control arm ball joints attached to the knuckles but remove the pinch bolt on the steering rack UJ and that will give you enough access to squeeze your arm in there and remove the 2 x13mm bolts on passenger side, 1x13mm bolt on drivers side and the 1x13mm stud at the rear on drivers side. Then remove the links and you will be able to remove the bar and change the D bushes.
@@OEMDeniedPerformance Thank you. That's a lot of work for two bushing ;)
@@emixx6 not very common for them to fail to be honest. If you have knocking noise its much more likely to be the links, lower ball joints, control arm bushes or the shocks.
My friend, what about the ball joint? How to replace?
Need to drill out the steel rivets:
th-cam.com/video/MJt5Dnw2c3I/w-d-xo.html
@@OEMDeniedPerformance that's cool, but what's with a replacement for RS's ball joint? Is a buying oem arm an only way?
@@PHIL4913 exactly the same process. The only difference between RS and ST arms is the ball joint so simply drill out the steel rivets and replace the ball joint on its own. GGR carry RS ones: shop.grahamgoode.com/front-lower-ball-joint--focus-rs-mk2-ggf4040-74614-p.asp
@@OEMDeniedPerformance thank you very much for the link
Will those bushing last
been using those particular ones for past 3 years and not replaced a set yet. Vehicle in the video runs 530 wheel hp and still lasting great
How big of a pain in the arse is it to install a Powerflex bush in the standard bush casing?
More involved and more time consuming. Powerflex recommend you press the arm off the bushing then burn the remaining rubber away to enable you to use the original casing. Time it takes to do one set of powerflex we can do 2 sets of arms that dont require the casing to be reused. www.powerflex.co.uk/i/product_images/19-1202_A4.pdf
Powerflex do now offer an anti lift kit that is a complete bushing and casing replacement though similar to Whiteline's design. But it is more expensive than buying Whiteline's one. Powerflex part number PFF19-1002G, 2 are required according to their catalogue. Whiteline part number KCA428, 1 required as sold as a pair.
@@OEMDeniedPerformance Yeah, the issue im having though is after just installing the Whiteline ALK i am getting heavy knocking from the front and my tyres keep going out of alignment. Everything has been checked for play and torqued down with a torque wrench, but the knocking is still there. A mechanic who had a look at the car told me my wheels are clearly moving forwards and backwards several centimetres when coming to a halt or taking off. So it clearly seems like the whiteline bushes are faulty or have failed, and the inner bush moves around in the casing forwards and backwards. I had a look at FocusRSOC, and this seems to be a pretty common issue with these, along with stretching and snapped bolts. My idea was to try a powerflex bush in the standard casing to see if that would work.
@@Nakke144 ahhhh I know what the issue is. The Whiteline bush mount holes are slotted as they are used on a few different vehicles. When they are installed the bolts should be placed through the mounts and the subframe then finger tightened. Then using a soft blow hammer the mount tapped all the way forward till it stops. Then torque the mounting bolts and nuts to 115NM. If mounts arent tapped forward then tightened the inner bushing isn't all the way home in the outer bushing so will wear out as it isn't fully supported.
@@OEMDeniedPerformance Strange that the arms move that much considering its also fastened by the front bush&bolt and the balljoint? I drove a 100km and the amount of toe-out that had come up had absolutely shredded my tyres. I had to jack the car up and take four full rotations off the tyre rod ends to get the wheels about straight so i could get home lol
where can I buy the holder ?!
Its called a knuckle spreader. Guessing by your username you are in Germany, ebay.de has them. Search kugelgelenk federbein achsschenkel :)
@@OEMDeniedPerformance I need the front lower arm rear bushing,without rubber 😊
@@Schiefel29 ahhhh. Whiteline part number KCA428 is an anti lift kit, normal version part number W53528. Our own version is show in video, shipping would cost you a fair bit
@@OEMDeniedPerformance thank you 🙏
Good job Guy ;oP