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only need to oil the filter after its been washed. When they are brand new out the box you are good to just fit it as is.

@ amazing thank you, glad to see you answer on old comments, love you

if your main key doesn't work just go back to dealer - your vehicle would be under 12 months old given you are in the US so would be within warranty period.

@@OEMDeniedPerformance Thank you for your response. I actually went to the Truck and tried it with the key that has the non working auto start. And it looks like it is working now. Thanks for sharing this video its really helpful, I honestly didn't even notice that notch for the key fob in that console :D

different engine, the Raptor is Petrol V6, Wild trak is diesel

@@OEMDeniedPerformance Thanks

Rangers & Everest models in Australia dont have stop start feature on the keys, they only have it on the Ford pass app. When you program the remote start key like in the video just make sure its switched on in the setting screen afterwards and keys should work.

where does it say its ready to use?

then needs to be done with IDS (Ford Dealer software) you can only add an additional keys as an owner like this if you have 2 working originals. But on the flip side, when you add a key with IDS it gives you the option to delete any keys that you no longer have which given you've lost it is what you want to do just in case someone else finds it

I dont have one sorry. Went through several suppliers till found one that was producing a consistently high quality product which is what we now carry. focusonperformance.com.au/black-led-mirror-sequential-indicators/

can use a PC as the handset is only ever connected to a computer or a vehicle - never both at the same time :)

I would use a max temp of 380c, preferably 350

Not sure what loom you are referring to?

No, Ford requirements for the RS mk2 is a 0W40 oil that meets Ford spec WSS-M2C937-A. They came factory filled with Castrol Edge Professional 0W40 which is what we use in both the RS & ST225.

@OEMDeniedPerformance thanks for info :D

@@OEMDeniedPerformance Motul 8100 X-max 0W-40 I Think is good also for my rs mk2. It s with specification Ford WSS-M2C937-A.

the torque wrench piece whats specs do you need on them

@@yessir-pi9fz Torque wrench. All torque specs are at the end of the video (9:24)

@@OEMDeniedPerformance good to know thanks I was under the assumption you just tightened em and didn't need one of them

95% of people won't use a torque wrench on jobs like this. One is used in these videos as they are intended to be educational. Things are done by the book so that if someone wants to know the specs they are there for them. (Better to have too much information than not enough)

@@OEMDeniedPerformance Yeah I fully agree! I had a chat to my dad and another older bloke and they where like why tf do you need a torque wrench for that they just said make sure its tight xD good old fellas, If I only need to tighten it tight like you normally would for everything I'll just do that cheers mate

long hose: 3M5H 18C553 NH short hose: 3M5H 18K582 NF

Thank you!

Id say you either have bad end caps, its not totally dry and free of oil & grease when going in or they are no longer flat.

@OEMDeniedPerformance Interesting... I bought them off Focus on performance as well, definitely was nice and dry and cleaned with brake cleaner. So long as it's not a bigger issue, I lost my patience and used some thread locker around the seal this time so should hold 😂

@@motardbrah7768 thread locker wont hold. Thread locker isnt a glue like that. If anything it will probably act the opposite and act as a lubricant so will fall back out. Somethings not quite right on your setup, need to check caps are indeed flat, measure hole & compare against caps.

@OEMDeniedPerformance Oh shit... I'm not sure what you mean by flat exactly, are you referring to the front to back thickness of the cap or across the diameter of it like an imperfect circle? The next thing I'm considering is installing a small makeshift bracket across the front of the cap to retain it in the same manner as the right hand cap is by the existing bracket lol

@@motardbrah7768 if you take the cap off and lay it on its back on a table it should sit dead flat. I mention this as sometimes when fitting, people push them in from the center which can bow them slightly so its no longer a tight fit (thats what Ive found when vehicles have come in and they have had the caps pop out so worth double checking) Might be easier to just call the workshop if unsure

Where is the water ingress? I've not come across that particular fault myself before. If the water is on the BCM then yes that will cause it as

There was a character limit so I cut some of it out but cut the wrong bit. doh! Just fixed - thanks for bringing to my attention man!

Thanks mate, Im so sorry about the sound quality on this one though!!

so long as you push them to their resting point before removal and mark that spot or photograph it then when refitting you do the same again it will be the same. If you get it wrong you can refit the car without the front cover on then use a scan tool to read live data from the ECU and adjust accordingly. Do 2 a week on average myself without issue. Speed will always read slightly higher than a real speed when compared to GPS - they are like that out the factory.

put 6M5G 9B307 AA into google images :)

usually a sign of a damaged slave

@@OEMDeniedPerformance The slave was replaced new at the same time release bearing new and the clutch bleed piping also

@@southernvapersden1304 if it wasn't reverse bleed initially and instead only afterwards then it may have torn the seal as per the image in the video. Master cylinder may also be faulty - impossible to know without physically looking at it sorry

@@OEMDeniedPerformance thanks so far for assistance, and yeah car was reverse bleed afterwards only.

​@@OEMDeniedPerformance What would you recommend in a case like this? What seal are you referring to, Can't see anything on the image. Master cylinder was replaced new when clutch was done. scratching my head now

yeah, actually shooting a video on an XR5 tomorrow. The Raptor just needed a service so it got filmed

@@OEMDeniedPerformance Ah right okay 👍

yes, you could do but if you're going to reuse the original bearing its best to press it all the way out, clean it up then refit with bearing retainer compound & the brace. The retainer compound is the primary holder of it in the knuckle, the brace is a back up. If you were to just press it back in as is and put the brace on there is a risk that the bearings outer race then starts to rotate inside the knuckle which will damage the knuckle.

The mk3 uses different drive shafts to the mk2 ST225, the Volvos uses the same axles as them though. We do sell a rebuild kit for the mk2s and can ship to Turkey. Just send an email to info@oemdenied.com and can get a shipping cost for you.

No, Ive never had to on the mk3 and not been sprayed in the face with fuel yet

Are you local to us? The only reason haven't done an install video is haven't had a local customer wanting one fitted. Would be happy to fit free of charge and use your vehicle for the install video. If not local, they are very straight forward to do and can give you written instructions or talk you through it over the phone. Shoot an email to info@oemdenied.com

​@OEMDeniedPerformance Nah I'm down in Melbourne unfortunately otherwise I'd take you up on that offer! Okay awesome thanks, I'll be ordering one sometime in December so will hit you up if I have any troubles with the install 👍

Watch the first 60 seconds and you'll know