Thank you for making this video with very detailed step-by-step simplistic instructions for planting a fruit tree with the Ellen White method. I'm so glad I stumbled on this video! 👍😊
If other amendments are not available, your best to have is Soft Rock Phospate it's a combination of soil minerals. They mine it. t's a slow-release natural occuring fertilizer in the soil at highest concentration.
One thing i discovered over the years is that if you dig a little bit and pour a bucket of water and let it for a few hours, the dirt gets softer and efforts digging will be way more productive, thank you for this video 🙏
Yes that is what l do! l repeat it until 1 metre deep. You can use motorised post hole digger as well. I discovered by accident an easy way to get lots of worms. Choose an area out of the full sun and away from bushes or trees. Dig an area 2m x 2m a foot deep. Give the area a huge amount of water after wards. A few times so the water goes 1 metre deep. Then put 2ft cow or horse manure on top. Mulch. Leave for 3 months. You will be shocked. Also can use composting toilet as fuel even better. Repeat same method same hole. Leave 25% worms mix behind because all the eggs are in the old manure. HAPPY DAYS.
Thorough video, thanks! Generally speaking, most people now dig square holes as it encourages the roots to push out at the corners. Otherwise you risk roots growing in circles, as in a pot, if your deeper substrate is particularly hard. Roots grow in the path of least resistance.
Square hole is just as good as round hole. Creating grooves or small holes on the dirt wall will help the roots penetrate into the wall easier. Forest trees do well without the square or round hole. Tree roots are amazingly strong.
Perfect conditions create "fussy trees". Walnuts don't like wet feet/clay soil: solution 3.5 meter deep hole[to find drainage] 400 mm round/ back fill with drainage rocke then 2.5m round area 500 mm deep small rock chip and plant walnut on top (seven years later still alive and beginning to produce. For one or two fussy trees it may be worth it but not an orchard. Plant what grows easily in your area.
After many years of many years of planting trees the best advice I can give: 1/ strip the sod, dig the hole and put the sod upside down in the bottom of the hole before planting the tree. 2 / plant the crown above the ground level. Soil always settles significantly when plants are watered in a new hole. If you don't do this the crown will settle in lower than is healthy. You can always add soil if planted to high but if planted to low the tree can be killed by stem rot. In the diagram at 5:08 I would say the plant is planted too deep.
Thanks for your comment. The tree we just planted looked like it's plantes deeper, but it's not. So far we've not seen tree sunken. I willl post an update about the tree we just planted
@@wellnessandcountrylife I didn't mean your tree was planted too deep. It was just a general warning to new tree planters from an old guy who has made all the mistakes.
What a clear and precise and complete exposition. One of the best tutorials I have ever seen on Utube. You guys are teachers as well as orchardists. Thanks, enjoy that well earned fruit.
This was very educational. This was a prime example that if you’re going do it, do it right. By the way, your property looks very beautiful. Thank you.
Thank you for the great explanation & demonstration of the Ellen White Method of planting trees. I suggest putting the top soil in buckets, wheel barrows or on a sheet of plywood to keep it separate from the deeper dirt and to make it easier to replace in the top of the hole. 10/05/2021
I was skeptical when I learned this method. However I decided to try it on one of my banana tree as an experiment. Actually I planted 3 banana plants, only one of them using this method to make a comparison. Also I modified this method and added some good fungi in the mixture (trichoderma) as a bio control agent also as an experiment. From what I read on some scientific acrticles from the internet, the trichoderma fungi suppose to protect the plant from bad fungis like fusarium, verticillium and etc.. not really sure about this, so I just give it a try:) After observing about a few months, I was blown away by the growth and performance of the Banana tree planted using this method vs the others using conventional method. My guess the air pocket creates aerobic environment for the good microbes and fungi to flourish under the tree thus resulting in excellent growth rate and healthy tree.
It's amazing, isn't it? Thank you for sharing your story! It takes time and effort but it definitely is worth it. The trichoderma will help for sure..we added some amendments as well that are not part of the original blueprint method to help boost our soil's nutrients level.
@@wellnessandcountrylife It's absolutely amazing! Worth the extra effort. Now, I kinda regret not using this method on all 3 of my banana trees.. If only I knew it will work from day one.. hahaha :D
@@wellnessandcountrylife yup, agreed.. I live in Malaysia and like all other Southeast Asian countries (Thailand, Malaysia, Philippines, Indonesia, Vietnam etc) we can grow bananas throughout the year. btw bananas originated from this part of the world. I wish you could grow them in Tennessee! Americans love to eat bananas. If I'm not mistaken, It's one of the most popular fruit there, . and you're right, its not late for me to plant more Bananas hehehe.. Cheers:)
@@amcontent7137 yes, Americans like banana but mostly imported. Only a few states can grow tropical fruits. I am a Filipino by blood and origin, that's why I wish i could plant it here and be able to produce fruits. Most of the time growing bananas here are for ornamental because the growing summer season is short and the plants don't get a chance to bear fruits.
Yes, you can use available local materials. As long as you make a big hole and fill it with compost, leaf mould, rocks, top soil and proper care. your trees should grow.
bt why it Must be Local ? why energy is never ending cycle with a unlimited amount of resources from far or near - the entire earth has animals fish humans & birds flying from 1000000s of miles away dropping poop, seeds on land and lakes to spread seed and biological particles & inoculant all over the earth There is nothing wrong with getting Bat Guano from 2000 miles away or from a local cave - this MUST BUY Local brainwashing is giving to you from the controllers
Hi! Thanks for your comment. The point of using local materials or ingredients is for affordability and sustainability. If there's nothing available locally, imported or stuff bought from elsewhere is fine, too.
A lot of people are complaining about the plastic pipe. When this method originated many years ago they used clay pipe for the cavity. I was told the reason for it was that it would hold water but nowadays they are saying it's to help aerobic organisms thrive and cause the compost to decay faster. I don't know but it doesn't hurt to do it and it might be something to it being beneficial.
Yes, orginally they used the clay pot. It's more bio-safe. However, the plastic pipe would do it's job as well if that's what you have available. The sun doesn't shine under ground so deterioration caused by heat and cold is of minimal issue.
Sana all Tess! You're so resourceful. Dia nang visit ko. I guess I need to try this here in the Philippines. Wow Ellen White method pa giod. Gotta do this in the island.
Hi from Melbourne Australia my husband done this as well sister White method. Its amazing! my dwarf lemon tree the fruits are unbelievable! wish i can share photos of them here. God Bless you.
A small tip for digging deeply into a relatively small hole... use a post-hole digger. I plan on planting some trees and will be using this method. Thank you
The hole wasn't so hard to dig, it's just faster to dig with the sandstone rock pieces that's spread in it. Kinda hard to swing a mattock past 2 feet deep in a 3 foot wide hole too. Our hole was still mostly clay, just has rocks that's easier to loosen with a jackhammer with shovel bit (tool we had from another project, so why not use it).
marie, you kids are very precious! i love their enthusiasm!!:) You are a whiz! i have many many trees to replant, and am very excited about using your method. thank you my friend! valerie michigan
Hi, give it a try. We've seen great result on our fruit trees. I hope it would do the same for yours. Share with us your experience when you have your fruit trees growing.
What, no biochar? Tip for digging on hard ground: fill the hole with water and let it soak for a few hours at least, that will soften it a lot. Also to fill the finished hole with water, preferably overnight, before planting. A little watering after each layer... In Mexico they add some sprouted corn, for growth enzymes I think. Will try that someday
Excellent 🧐🧐🧐🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾well documented 🧐 I love this part of gardening I would add some azomite as you set..the tree 🧐and a pinch of seaweed and fish emulation this would be my icing on the cake 🍰🎂🎂👍🏿👍🏿
@@wellnessandcountrylife thanks again I had to express my gratitude to you and family for your great teachings All forever watch you Now that I found you🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🧐
Excellent educational discussions and helpful diagrams. I have used modified methods similar to this in the past with great success ! Most appreciated. Regards.
I have a guess as for why dry climates would use gypsum and warm ones would use dolomite: Gypsum is water-soluble, while dolomite is not. But both will dissolve in acidic water. You might be able to use chalk/lime instead of gypsum if you want. Fun fact: Most of the "blackboard chalk" you've used was *actually* gypsum. Another fun fact: Marble is metamorphosed calcite (like chalk and lime), and has the same "dissolves in acidic water" problem that calcite does, though it takes longer.
Lime is acidic, and gypsum is anti-acidic. People use these to regulate the PH levels of their soil to accommodate the plants that they wish to grow in that region. Lime adds acidity to soil, while gypsum reduces acidity.
Great video. Glad to watch that you are involving kids in planting trees. “Children learn what they live” - without a doubt they will be planting trees to fulfill their part in saying thanks to Mother Nature. Thanks for sharing your video.
Something I do with citrus skins, blend them unto a slush in a blender. they compost MUCH faster. If you don't, they will be around for what seems like decades lol.
The rocks aren't 'for minerals', they create a membrane between the richj compost layer and the soil above, which have different electrical properties. This creates a battery-like effect that does something that I don't fully understand.
Yes I agree, the rocks layers and everything else inside creates a negative and positive charge that help plants grow well, we just forgot to mention it. And as mentioned rocks do add minerals to the soil.
They do like helping, sowetimes we have to make them help so they too can learn. More of "play" for them than "work" really 😀 Thanks for your comment 🙂
The video is quite interesting and I congratulate for the efforts. If I may add my two bits worth as an agronomist, I would say that the blueprint, not bad to give an all around idea but being quite generalized, need to be modified/adapted to the area you live in (weather condition/erosion/soil texture etccc) and the plants you’re going to plant, since the structure of their roots apparatus will change greatly and so it will their need for minerals, support and expansion. Beside that even considering where the underground water will run (presence of springs and such)! which kind of plant has been there before and a test of the dirt itself. That will consequently affect the layers we may decide to put into our hole; The hole we have prepared for the tree is a great help as a starter for its growth, but if the other condition are poor and miscalculated for the real need of the plant we may find ourselves facing a lush growth in the first years and then a phase of stalling for the years to come. Simply meaning the plant may not give its full potential. Not to be picky, and definitely even simply planning to layer a hole is way more than 99% of people would do, but since the topic was about growing trees quickly I told to write down this quick reminder. :) Nice channel
6:41 it is best practice to dig a square hole especially if you have machinery, the square hole enables the roots to find corners, But if you have no choice, then to dig by hand, the round hole will do just fine .. Especially with this method of blending materials, along with man-made parts to encourage faster growth
The purpose of the high silica rocks is to multiply the electrical current that flows thru the soil. The rock under the root ball collects the energy for the roots. Soil electrical energy flows south to north. This is why the primary root faces north. This extra energy increases plant growth. Soft rock phosphate improves flavor. I use it on all my plants. Thanks!
@@Lion-dq9uj Give extra water a place to go. Basically its a 3' bowl. Plants need as much air as they do water. The increased air supply around the roots is largely responsible for the increased growth. With a heavy rain, the mulch will absorb some and the rest will go to the pipe area so the roots don't drown.
About to plant two grafted A AND B type 🥑 plants and want to make sure I don't mess them up planting them wrong!! Thanks for the info!! Happy planting!!
1 change. Add a piece of PVC wen doin all this. Then u can water from the bottom & encourage the roots to grow down. Will help speed up growth also. You would still have to do some surface watering until the tree gets established. If u live in a dryer climate this can help also by getn the roots deeper faster where the water is. Just pour the water in the pipe & the roots will follow the water down. Happy planting
I wish I had easy access to these things, for I live in the city. I like the video because it’s easy to follow. I will be referring back to it when I am ready to plant. It won’t be an orchard though😅
You don't have to have all the amendments mentioned in this video. Basic ingredient: compost, topsoil, local soil in your garden, soft rock phosphate (it has a lot of slow-release soil minerals that your plant needs)
You people seem really nice and I love how you get the whole family involved. I've always been taught as a landscape designer by trade, to dig a hole twice as wide as the rootball and only as deep as the rootball keeping the root flare ABOVE the soil.
at 23:05 you mention planting at the ideal time of year. I took the advice of Jim Putnam (I think that is his name) here on TH-cam and he said you can plant trees in the hottest months of the year but you have to prune the terminal buds on all of the new growth. I did that for two peach trees I planted in July on two different properties and both of them did awesome. The idea behind it is the new growth is what demands the most energy from the roots so you stop that demand and let the roots catch up. While the roots rebound, new buds form on the branches and by the time those grow the roots are ready to handle the demand.
Thanks for sharing your experience and the idea of pruning the new growth to help the roots get established is true. One can definitely plant anytime of the year as long as the tree rootd has a way survive and thrive. Fall time is the ideal time for planting trees in 4-season countries
AAAGGGLLL- I was in the middle of a response thanking you for this video. Microsoft interrupted me, trying to sell me what I don't want. It wiped out everything I had typed! Quick summary, I didn't know how important the rocks are. I have clay and lots of rocks. In one area of my yard, is all rocks, cemented with clay- takes me a day to dig a decent hole with a shovel, trowel, and a 40 lb. iron crowbar to pry the rocks loose. I discarded the rocks to a back yard wall to level the back yard. Filled the hole with mix of compost, original soil and (upper layers, decomposed leaf mulch). It never occurred to me to add worms. Last Year I made a compost pile that never got hot. Couldn't figure out why. I looked at it April this year and it was full of huge worms! I'm in zone 7A, southern NY. I start planting lettuce, radishes, onions, & root veg's, carrots, turnips, beets Feb. 1. It's May, I now have incredible harvest of lettuce, scallions & radishes! End of April I have my tomatoes trans-planted. now working on peppers.
Thank you for sharing your insipiring gardening/planting story. It does take a lot of time and effort to plan and do planting and gardening especially if the soil is reallt bad. We have rocky soil in Tennessee, we collect and pile them as we find them. Adding soil amendment is beneficial, and also making use of what available like top soil, leafs and other organic matter.
Hello from the Philippines! Thank you for the very informative video which I will surely follow and further explore Ellen White's method. I have a question as you mentioned "compost". I have been using "Vermicompost" (worm manure) but the soil is mixed with "Sugarcane press mud" as sugar cane is an abundance in our place. Do you advise this method of using "Vermicompost" mixed with "Sugarcane press mud"? Also, I am hesitant to follow the process you showed wherein you pry open in half the roots of the tree. I am afraid I might kill the tree itself. But I will see if I have the confidence to do it. Again, thank you.
Hello kabayan, kumusta po?! Yes you can use vermicompost with decomposed sugarcane organic matter. E mix mo lang with other local/native soil. It is not necessary to pry or separate the roots, because roots will natirally find their way through the soil. For roots and soil that have been compacted it can be loosen a little bit at the very bottom, but if the soil and roots are loose and not holding up well, don't separate the roots so as not to disturb and expose much of its structure. You can better gauge it when you're actually doing the planting. Best wishes on your tree planting!
@@wellnessandcountrylife Thank you po for taking time to reply!! I have another question po. I saw your land where you plant trees and it is wide. I plan to plant in a small space. So a thought crossed my mind while thinking about your video, to plant trees a little closer to each other (say from their trunks, 6 feet apart). But there is this growing "concern" about trees planted so close together their roots may try to pry each other, resulting to not bearing much fruit. I have heard about this in the late Danding Cojuangco's mango plantation. In my mind, to remedy this "concern", how about (using same distance of 6 feet between trunks) I put/plant each tree in a steel drum (open on both ends, top and bottom). I am thinking this will prevent the roots to go at another nearby tree and will instead go sprout below the lower open side of the steel drum. Have you seen this done before? And is this OK? I ask because as you know in the Philippines, we are visited regularly by typhoons. So I worry if a typhoon comes, it will topple the tree over because the roots may not be that spread out well because they have been restricted by the steel drum. Thanks po ulit!
@@bocbay7480 planting in the drum could help contain the roots, but if you plant the trees too close they won't have proper air circulation and they can cause tree disease. You can also prune often to control the size of the tree. Unless you plant hybrid or.dwarf tree varieties they will be okay even without the drum and being planted too close. You'll just need to weigh the pros and cons of your options.
I live in upstate New York and I have several clients whose trees are not doing well, fruit trees that is, I think this is the reason why they’re not doing well they weren’t planted well to begin with.
That was awesome I loved every moment of it especially when you had the children helping 😀 ❤ so informative. Thanks for sharing this I am ready to start digging.
I have a huge untouched forest behind my house and i scrape all the surface material and add it to compost. So its all micro rhizomes, black live topsoil, dirt, and decaying material. Makes the best planting material for all my fruit trees. I dig out a huge hole then fill it up.
What I would do different is measure the tree root ball confirm where the graft was so that’s not buried when you fill the hole. Measure the depth so you know exactly how the center should be left alone and dig around that center like a tower which the tree will sit on so when the soil settles over the next year or so, the tree won’t move leave 12” center. Also remove all the grass in a 4 foot circle around the center so the roots of the tree aren’t fighting for the nutrition that the grass is trying to take up.
You are fortunate to live in a place where holes can be dug so easily. Here in NE VT we have more rock than dirt. It requires blasting to dig a hole in ledge. We have worked around it.
@@wellnessandcountrylife oh yes, this is constant here. We built terraces with all the rock, fill the terraces with rotting wood, leaves etc. to make deep soil. In new beds we grow daikon radish and potatoes and let it all rot to help build soil. We cut fields with our scythes and pile this hay green in new beds too.
I’m planting lots of fruit trees….. I’d love to use this method but just don’t have time So I dig a hole. Toss the top turf. Upside down in the bottom of the Hole. Then throw in some rocks and some leaves then the bare root tree and back fill with top soil .. and rock mulch. The rock mulch is great as in the summer at night when the air temp drops the rocks remain warm and water condenses on the underside of the rocks each night and drip feeds the tree. The only amendment I give is the juice from my wormery (worm farm ). And a handful of worm poop in each hole … the muse is applied in spring and summer diluted 1:10 and just a cup full. For each tree once every couple of weeks It’s more of an inoculant adding microorganisms to the planting area rather than a direct fertiliser for the. tree
We planted 8 fruit trees last month and it's very hot. Yes it's a lot of work that's why it takes time for us to haul all the soil and other ingredients 😀. We still have 5 more to plant and hopefully our trees survive in this heat. It looks like our trees are so stress that all the leaves died in 100 degrees temperature. You have a beautiful orchard there. Thank you for sharing. I am from Philippines too but live in US. Hopefully EGW method of planting will work for us after all.
I just bought some fruit trees and the temp is in the mid to upper 90's. I live just outside of Houston. I ordered a 30% shade cloth to protect them from the hot sun until the are established.
All the photos of mulch are volcano mulched. I suggest maybe revising that. The volcano mulch doesn’t allow the root flare to breath and invites borers to attack the trunk.
There are worm specie that are more aggressive, the jumpingworm. They can grow long and more.wiggly and thrashy, they are shallow dirt digger..if you have trees/plants that are shallow-rooted they can get disturb by the Asia jumping earthworms.
Hello, good evening. I watch thus video and wss thoroughly blessed and finally understanding this method of planting. Could you tell which one of Sister White's writings covers this planting method? I have been searching for this among her writings for a couple years now and would really appreciate it if i can read it for myself and show others. Thanks
Hello in our latest video on fruit tree planting we answered some common questions, and also gave the additional resources towards the end of the video. I hope this helps th-cam.com/video/EBHpDTbnWBI/w-d-xo.html
A square hole is better for the trees/shrubs roots and You want to comb the roots out using a root comb or fork to create root spread and optimum nibari formation whilst Pruning about a 1/3 of the root ball, The rocks are for drainage, electrical conductivity and has an effect on the ph also creates air pockets - nice little orchid u have there tho 😀
Round hole saves digging-time. We normally don't cut the root ball to prevent less disturbance to the roots, but it's optional other people cut and comb the roots before planting. We have an evidence that round hole doesn't cause the roots to go around choking the roots. I'll post the video soon. Thank you for the comment, though.
2 corrections: 1) Moleses will lower your pH level, more acidic. Should have not put in an already acidic soil. 2) The small rocks main purspose is not for mineralization (but it is for long term). It is to charge electricity in the soil so the roots will follow the electricity charge going down deeper in the soil. A deeper roots, a better roots. Hopes that helps. 😊
Such a helpful video. Thankyou! I have a question- does the pipe at the bottom have small holes along it to allow the transfer of oxygen? Or is it solid? Thankyou.
awesome video thx. i have one question. what about if you are planting your fruit trees in the fall time when the tree is dormant? With all those amendments and fertilizers. Does this comprise the tree or trick it out of dormancy? just a thought. I will be planting this way. Once again thank you for thorough explanation.
Technically, you can plant any time of the year, but spring time is what most people suggest if you live in 4 season countries. When the tree are still in dormant state and no leaves out yet. Usually if you plant towards winter it will just slow down the leaves production, but it doesn't mean it's not growing roots. God bless your planting.
Everyone says not to bury the grafting area of the tree where it meets the root stock or you will get unwanted growth from the stump causing the tree to grow at a different rate then the root stock. Do you bury your grafting area and if so do you see any ill affects? Thanks this is the first video that I’ve seen where results are shown years later! Great work!
Hello! Yeah, never bury the graft area. Make sure that the top of tbe dirt is level where the base of the graft it. You can watch our latest update on this newly-planted pear tree th-cam.com/video/EBHpDTbnWBI/w-d-xo.html
The thing is though, if you have a round hole, the roots will just go round and round and round where as if they come to a flat wall they will penetrate and the root system will be far more superior. Might be a little bit extra digging but well worth the effort.
Square holes can be done, too, round holes take less time to dig. When you do round holes make sure you make gouges or poke holes on the wall using a mattock.
Are all the steps in this method variable depending on soil type? The reason I ask is that the soil in my area is very, very soft and loose. It is volcanic soil and the layers lower than about two feet are basically pumice. It is VERY easy to dig holes in! I could probably dig that same 3 x 3 hole in less than ten minutes with nothing but a shovel! In fact, it is so soft that it is hard to keep the hole from caving in as you dig. I don't think I'd need to poke holes in the sides for the roots. Given my situation, would I still need the air chamber pipe in the bottom of the hole? The soil is very well draining, almost too well!
If your soil is loose, you don't necessarily need the pipe, nor all the suggested amendments, however you still need a lot of organic matter, compost and local soil to enrich the soil that you put in the hole.
Hello! We use kelp meal, sulfate of potash, soft rock phospate. For dry area add 4 cups of gypsum. For wet areas add dolomite. Sea water mineral is alternative for kelp (source of iodine). Live earthworms is highly recommended but if you use leaf mould there will be earthworm presence already. Main/basic ingredients are compost, top soil, rock phospate. Animal manure if you have it available. I hope this helps. Happy planting!
This is good for those who have soil, but where I live it's anywhere from 1 to 5" before you hit solid limestone, 3' just isn't going to happen without heavy equipment.
The soil and whatever you put in the hole is the fertilizer. If you want to add other fertilizers after planting, you can. You can mix in the water as well. Every 6 months or once a year.
Thank you for making this video with very detailed step-by-step simplistic instructions for planting a fruit tree with the Ellen White method. I'm so glad I stumbled on this video! 👍😊
I'm glad it helps you. Happy planting!
Thank you for the info, I need to try it , also can this method with shade trees?
@@wellnessandcountrylife Could you provide links to where they sell all these soil amendments? They're aren't available everywhere.
Does this type of planting does the same to (avocado 🥑 plant) seedlings????
If other amendments are not available, your best to have is Soft Rock Phospate it's a combination of soil minerals. They mine it. t's a slow-release natural occuring fertilizer in the soil at highest concentration.
One thing i discovered over the years is that if you dig a little bit and pour a bucket of water and let it for a few hours, the dirt gets softer and efforts digging will be way more productive, thank you for this video 🙏
You are right. Thank you for sharing that helpful tip.
Yes that is what l do! l repeat it until 1 metre deep. You can use motorised post hole digger as well.
I discovered by accident an easy way to get lots of worms. Choose an area out of the full sun and away from bushes or trees. Dig an area 2m x 2m a foot deep. Give the area a huge amount of water after wards. A few times so the water goes 1 metre deep. Then put 2ft cow or horse manure on top. Mulch. Leave for 3 months. You will be shocked. Also can use composting toilet as fuel even better.
Repeat same method same hole. Leave 25% worms mix behind because all the eggs are in the old manure. HAPPY DAYS.
I like how the young men are helping.. so much energy and they actually look like they are enjoying helping out.
They did enjoy doing it. They were learning as they watch
Thorough video, thanks! Generally speaking, most people now dig square holes as it encourages the roots to push out at the corners. Otherwise you risk roots growing in circles, as in a pot, if your deeper substrate is particularly hard. Roots grow in the path of least resistance.
Square hole is just as good as round hole. Creating grooves or small holes on the dirt wall will help the roots penetrate into the wall easier. Forest trees do well without the square or round hole. Tree roots are amazingly strong.
Perfect conditions create "fussy trees".
Walnuts don't like wet feet/clay soil: solution 3.5 meter deep hole[to find drainage] 400 mm round/ back fill with drainage rocke then 2.5m round area 500 mm deep small rock chip and plant walnut on top (seven years later still alive and beginning to produce.
For one or two fussy trees it may be worth it but not an orchard.
Plant what grows easily in your area.
After many years of many years of planting trees the best advice I can give: 1/ strip the sod, dig the hole and put the sod upside down in the bottom of the hole before planting the tree. 2 / plant the crown above the ground level. Soil always settles significantly when plants are watered in a new hole. If you don't do this the crown will settle in lower than is healthy. You can always add soil if planted to high but if planted to low the tree can be killed by stem rot. In the diagram at 5:08 I would say the plant is planted too deep.
Thanks for your comment. The tree we just planted looked like it's plantes deeper, but it's not. So far we've not seen tree sunken. I willl post an update about the tree we just planted
@@wellnessandcountrylife I didn't mean your tree was planted too deep. It was just a general warning to new tree planters from an old guy who has made all the mistakes.
What is 'sod' mean ?
Sod is the layer of grass on top of soil you remove before digging.
@@gilsonoliveira416 thank you 🙏
Thank you for a great video. Very informative. God bless you and your family.
Glad it was helpful! 🙂👍
Awesome way to use those kids energy..and making them stronger and ready for hard life...
Better than public school... mucho better
Thank you! It's not easy to teach kids and we are also learning everyday. But God is patient with us, we are learning slowly
Salamat Marie! Really appreciate you and your family's efforts in documenting and sharing this method.
No problem at all. Glad to share this valuable information and experience.
One of the best fruit tree planting videos I've seen. Your orchard is beautiful!!
Aww thank you! We are still learning everday. It's a lot of work, but worth it. Blessings to you!
What a clear and precise and complete exposition. One of the best tutorials I have ever seen on Utube. You guys are teachers as well as orchardists. Thanks, enjoy that well earned fruit.
Thank you for your kind words! We are just learners doing the best we can. I'm glad the video is helpful to you 🙂
Well done. I have been saving the Ellen White method for my future grow. Thanks for the step by step. Great teaching, zero ego. Appreciated.
Thank you for your kind words. We're also learning everyday, we try to share as well. I'm glad you're blessed. Glory to God! 🙏
This was very educational. This was a prime example that if you’re going do it, do it right. By the way, your property looks very beautiful. Thank you.
It's a lot of work. It takes time, but it's worth it.
Thank you for the great explanation & demonstration of the Ellen White Method of planting trees. I suggest putting the top soil in buckets, wheel barrows or on a sheet of plywood to keep it separate from the deeper dirt and to make it easier to replace in the top of the hole. 10/05/2021
Thank's for your suggestions.
This is the one of the best video I ever watched.
Thank you for taking the time to watch this video. ❤
This is the best explanation of the EGW method I've found. Thanks!
Glory to God! I hope you find this video helpful. Happy planting!
I was skeptical when I learned this method. However I decided to try it on one of my banana tree as an experiment. Actually I planted 3 banana plants, only one of them using this method to make a comparison. Also I modified this method and added some good fungi in the mixture (trichoderma) as a bio control agent also as an experiment. From what I read on some scientific acrticles from the internet, the trichoderma fungi suppose to protect the plant from bad fungis like fusarium, verticillium and etc.. not really sure about this, so I just give it a try:) After observing about a few months, I was blown away by the growth and performance of the Banana tree planted using this method vs the others using conventional method. My guess the air pocket creates aerobic environment for the good microbes and fungi to flourish under the tree thus resulting in excellent growth rate and healthy tree.
It's amazing, isn't it? Thank you for sharing your story! It takes time and effort but it definitely is worth it. The trichoderma will help for sure..we added some amendments as well that are not part of the original blueprint method to help boost our soil's nutrients level.
@@wellnessandcountrylife It's absolutely amazing! Worth the extra effort. Now, I kinda regret not using this method on all 3 of my banana trees.. If only I knew it will work from day one.. hahaha :D
@@amcontent7137 it's not late to plant more bananas hehehe! I wish we could plant bananas here in Tennessee
@@wellnessandcountrylife yup, agreed.. I live in Malaysia and like all other Southeast Asian countries (Thailand, Malaysia, Philippines, Indonesia, Vietnam etc) we can grow bananas throughout the year. btw bananas originated from this part of the world. I wish you could grow them in Tennessee! Americans love to eat bananas. If I'm not mistaken, It's one of the most popular fruit there, . and you're right, its not late for me to plant more Bananas hehehe.. Cheers:)
@@amcontent7137 yes, Americans like banana but mostly imported. Only a few states can grow tropical fruits. I am a Filipino by blood and origin, that's why I wish i could plant it here and be able to produce fruits. Most of the time growing bananas here are for ornamental because the growing summer season is short and the plants don't get a chance to bear fruits.
This is the best video. Very clear and detailed. Thank you.
I'm glad it's helpful to you! Happy planting!
Very tiresome process but very good exercise. Good job guys! Thanks for sharing sis
Tama jud kuya
You youtube very good, I learned a lot.
It is very effective, even if we only use the available local materials! Thanks for inspiring again.
Yes, you can use available local materials. As long as you make a big hole and fill it with compost, leaf mould, rocks, top soil and proper care. your trees should grow.
bt why it Must be Local ? why energy is never ending cycle with a unlimited amount of resources from far or near - the entire earth has animals fish humans & birds flying from 1000000s of miles away dropping poop, seeds on land and lakes to spread seed and biological particles & inoculant all over the earth There is nothing wrong with getting Bat Guano from 2000 miles away or from a local cave - this MUST BUY Local brainwashing is giving to you from the controllers
Hi! Thanks for your comment. The point of using local materials or ingredients is for affordability and sustainability. If there's nothing available locally, imported or stuff bought from elsewhere is fine, too.
Very industrious and energetic kid!
Thank you!
A lot of people are complaining about the plastic pipe. When this method originated many years ago they used clay pipe for the cavity. I was told the reason for it was that it would hold water but nowadays they are saying it's to help aerobic organisms thrive and cause the compost to decay faster. I don't know but it doesn't hurt to do it and it might be something to it being beneficial.
Yes, orginally they used the clay pot. It's more bio-safe. However, the plastic pipe would do it's job as well if that's what you have available. The sun doesn't shine under ground so deterioration caused by heat and cold is of minimal issue.
Wow, Beautiful Upload friend. keep it up. Thank you for sharing this to us. Greetings from Korea
Hi I'm glad you find this video helpful. I hope it works well for you. Happy planting!
U guys are awesome so clear in your explanation may God bless u all ….by the way your boys are so cute helping out
Thank you! I hope this video helps. God bless you, too! ❤
Sana all Tess! You're so resourceful. Dia nang visit ko. I guess I need to try this here in the Philippines. Wow Ellen White method pa giod. Gotta do this in the island.
Oo te try jud, it is very effective. Dali ra modako ang tree
Thank God for His wonderful science. Thanks for sharing 😊🙏
Thank you! Happy planting!
Thank you for your great coverage priceless education simply awesome 👍🏿🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🌹
Aww thank you! I'm glad you find the video helpful. God bless you tree planting.
Hi from Melbourne Australia my husband done this as well sister White method. Its amazing! my dwarf lemon tree the fruits are unbelievable! wish i can share photos of them here. God Bless you.
Amazing indeed! Thank you for sharing your tree-planting success story. We are planning to plant more fruit trees soon.
A small tip for digging deeply into a relatively small hole... use a post-hole digger.
I plan on planting some trees and will be using this method.
Thank you
We used shovel, and jack hammer with shovel bit 😀
@@wellnessandcountrylife Wow... that's some hard dirt.
The hole wasn't so hard to dig, it's just faster to dig with the sandstone rock pieces that's spread in it. Kinda hard to swing a mattock past 2 feet deep in a 3 foot wide hole too. Our hole was still mostly clay, just has rocks that's easier to loosen with a jackhammer with shovel bit (tool we had from another project, so why not use it).
marie, you kids are very precious! i love their enthusiasm!!:) You are a whiz! i have many many trees to replant, and am very excited about using your method. thank you my friend! valerie michigan
Hi, give it a try. We've seen great result on our fruit trees. I hope it would do the same for yours. Share with us your experience when you have your fruit trees growing.
What, no biochar?
Tip for digging on hard ground: fill the hole with water and let it soak for a few hours at least, that will soften it a lot. Also to fill the finished hole with water, preferably overnight, before planting. A little watering after each layer...
In Mexico they add some sprouted corn, for growth enzymes I think. Will try that someday
Thank you for your suggestions 🙂
Thank you for this vid, 1 of the best most concise videos when it comes to planting fruit trees😊
Thank you for your kind comment. Blessings to you 🙂
Excellent 🧐🧐🧐🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾well documented 🧐 I love this part of gardening I would add some azomite as you set..the tree 🧐and a pinch of seaweed and fish emulation this would be my icing on the cake 🍰🎂🎂👍🏿👍🏿
Any good and natural amendments will help the tree grow healthy 👍
@@wellnessandcountrylife thanks again I had to express my gratitude to you and family for your great teachings All forever watch you Now that I found you🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🧐
Excellent educational discussions and helpful diagrams. I have used modified methods similar to this in the past with great success !
Most appreciated. Regards.
I'm glad to hear your tree-planting success story. It does work!
I have a guess as for why dry climates would use gypsum and warm ones would use dolomite:
Gypsum is water-soluble, while dolomite is not. But both will dissolve in acidic water.
You might be able to use chalk/lime instead of gypsum if you want.
Fun fact: Most of the "blackboard chalk" you've used was *actually* gypsum.
Another fun fact: Marble is metamorphosed calcite (like chalk and lime), and has the same "dissolves in acidic water" problem that calcite does, though it takes longer.
Lime is acidic, and gypsum is anti-acidic. People use these to regulate the PH levels of their soil to accommodate the plants that they wish to grow in that region. Lime adds acidity to soil, while gypsum reduces acidity.
Great video. Glad to watch that you are involving kids in planting trees. “Children learn what they live” - without a doubt they will be planting trees to fulfill their part in saying thanks to Mother Nature. Thanks for sharing your video.
Thank you! It's not easy task, they are kids. We can only try the best we can 😃 I hope the video is a blessing to you.
Something I do with citrus skins, blend them unto a slush in a blender. they compost MUCH faster. If you don't, they will be around for what seems like decades lol.
Great DIY organic fertilizer! Thanks for sharing.
I've heard to avoid citrus and onions as mulch because it would kill the earthworms.
@@Richard-zc1cj Once it is composted, it won't.
The oil is what makes the peels take so long to compost.
I Thank You for the video guide to a successful planting of fruit and probably any tree !!!
No problem, I hope it'll work for your tree-planting 🙂
The rocks aren't 'for minerals', they create a membrane between the richj compost layer and the soil above, which have different electrical properties. This creates a battery-like effect that does something that I don't fully understand.
Yes I agree, the rocks layers and everything else inside creates a negative and positive charge that help plants grow well, we just forgot to mention it. And as mentioned rocks do add minerals to the soil.
This method is great… I can see burying some logs under the ground as well… 🐸
Whatever works to provide an air cavity. One can be creative
the stones. help. with. the electromagnetic. field. it. is. art. and sciensce. !!!!
I just think it's awesome that your kids are actually interested in hard work outside!
They do like helping, sowetimes we have to make them help so they too can learn. More of "play" for them than "work" really 😀 Thanks for your comment 🙂
The video is quite interesting and I congratulate for the efforts. If I may add my two bits worth as an agronomist, I would say that the blueprint, not bad to give an all around idea but being quite generalized, need to be modified/adapted to the area you live in (weather condition/erosion/soil texture etccc) and the plants you’re going to plant, since the structure of their roots apparatus will change greatly and so it will their need for minerals, support and expansion. Beside that even considering where the underground water will run (presence of springs and such)! which kind of plant has been there before and a test of the dirt itself. That will consequently affect the layers we may decide to put into our hole; The hole we have prepared for the tree is a great help as a starter for its growth, but if the other condition are poor and miscalculated for the real need of the plant we may find ourselves facing a lush growth in the first years and then a phase of stalling for the years to come. Simply meaning the plant may not give its full potential.
Not to be picky, and definitely even simply planning to layer a hole is way more than 99% of people would do, but since the topic was about growing trees quickly I told to write down this quick reminder. :) Nice channel
Thank you for your comment and suggestions 🙂
@@wellnessandcountrylife my pleasure, thanks for the interesting video
Thanks for that information regarding the explanation of the layers
No problem. I'm glad it's useful to you.
6:41 it is best practice to dig a square hole especially if you have machinery, the square hole enables the roots to find corners,
But if you have no choice, then to dig by hand, the round hole will do just fine ..
Especially with this method of blending materials, along with man-made parts to encourage faster growth
Square or round hole it doesn't really matter. Roots will find their way through cracks and crevices.
Your video was very helpful. I liked that you gave us so much detail. ThNks!!
Glad it was helpful! May God bless your efforts 🙂🙏
Love the kids helping
Thank you 🙂
This wonderful view for picture for plan
The purpose of the high silica rocks is to multiply the electrical current that flows thru the soil. The rock under the root ball collects the energy for the roots. Soil electrical energy flows south to north. This is why the primary root faces north. This extra energy increases plant growth. Soft rock phosphate improves flavor. I use it on all my plants. Thanks!
Thank's for your explanation! Happy planting!
What is the air cavity for??? 4"pipe??
@@Lion-dq9uj Give extra water a place to go. Basically its a 3' bowl. Plants need as much air as they do water. The increased air supply around the roots is largely responsible for the increased growth. With a heavy rain, the mulch will absorb some and the rest will go to the pipe area so the roots don't drown.
Well-said!
About to plant two grafted A AND B type 🥑 plants and want to make sure I don't mess them up planting them wrong!! Thanks for the info!! Happy planting!!
1 change. Add a piece of PVC wen doin all this. Then u can water from the bottom & encourage the roots to grow down. Will help speed up growth also. You would still have to do some surface watering until the tree gets established. If u live in a dryer climate this can help also by getn the roots deeper faster where the water is. Just pour the water in the pipe & the roots will follow the water down. Happy planting
I wish I had easy access to these things, for I live in the city. I like the video because it’s easy to follow. I will be referring back to it when I am ready to plant. It won’t be an orchard though😅
You don't have to have all the amendments mentioned in this video.
Basic ingredient:
compost, topsoil, local soil in your garden, soft rock phosphate (it has a lot of slow-release soil minerals that your plant needs)
You guys did a great job presenting this method.
Thank you so much! God bless the working hands. Blessings to you!
You people seem really nice and I love how you get the whole family involved. I've always been taught as a landscape designer by trade, to dig a hole twice as wide as the rootball and only as deep as the rootball keeping the root flare ABOVE the soil.
Thank you for sharing your experience 🙏🙂
Thanks for this video, the explanation is great! I was wondering if you can use the clay dirt from the bottom of the hole and amend it?
at 23:05 you mention planting at the ideal time of year. I took the advice of Jim Putnam (I think that is his name) here on TH-cam and he said you can plant trees in the hottest months of the year but you have to prune the terminal buds on all of the new growth. I did that for two peach trees I planted in July on two different properties and both of them did awesome. The idea behind it is the new growth is what demands the most energy from the roots so you stop that demand and let the roots catch up. While the roots rebound, new buds form on the branches and by the time those grow the roots are ready to handle the demand.
Thanks for sharing your experience and the idea of pruning the new growth to help the roots get established is true. One can definitely plant anytime of the year as long as the tree rootd has a way survive and thrive. Fall time is the ideal time for planting trees in 4-season countries
@@wellnessandcountrylife VeRy Nice
a very well done video as well illustrated as didactic. Thank you, keep going !
Thank you for your kind words 🙂
AAAGGGLLL- I was in the middle of a response thanking you for this video. Microsoft interrupted me, trying to sell me what I don't want. It wiped out everything I had typed!
Quick summary, I didn't know how important the rocks are. I have clay and lots of rocks. In one area of my yard, is all rocks, cemented with clay- takes me a day to dig a decent hole with a shovel, trowel, and a 40 lb. iron crowbar to pry the rocks loose. I discarded the rocks to a back yard wall to level the back yard. Filled the hole with mix of compost, original soil and (upper layers, decomposed leaf mulch). It never occurred to me to add worms.
Last Year I made a compost pile that never got hot. Couldn't figure out why. I looked at it April this year and it was full of huge worms! I'm in zone 7A, southern NY. I start planting lettuce, radishes, onions, & root veg's, carrots, turnips, beets Feb. 1. It's May, I now have incredible harvest of lettuce, scallions & radishes! End of April I have my tomatoes trans-planted. now working on peppers.
Thank you for sharing your insipiring gardening/planting story. It does take a lot of time and effort to plan and do planting and gardening especially if the soil is reallt bad. We have rocky soil in Tennessee, we collect and pile them as we find them. Adding soil amendment is beneficial, and also making use of what available like top soil, leafs and other organic matter.
Looking fantastic
Fantastic and lovely presentation Friend obrigado friend lovely presentation Friend obrigado
Hello from the Philippines! Thank you for the very informative video which I will surely follow and further explore Ellen White's method. I have a question as you mentioned "compost". I have been using "Vermicompost" (worm manure) but the soil is mixed with "Sugarcane press mud" as sugar cane is an abundance in our place. Do you advise this method of using "Vermicompost" mixed with "Sugarcane press mud"?
Also, I am hesitant to follow the process you showed wherein you pry open in half the roots of the tree. I am afraid I might kill the tree itself. But I will see if I have the confidence to do it.
Again, thank you.
Hello kabayan, kumusta po?! Yes you can use vermicompost with decomposed sugarcane organic matter. E mix mo lang with other local/native soil.
It is not necessary to pry or separate the roots, because roots will natirally find their way through the soil. For roots and soil that have been compacted it can be loosen a little bit at the very bottom, but if the soil and roots are loose and not holding up well, don't separate the roots so as not to disturb and expose much of its structure.
You can better gauge it when you're actually doing the planting.
Best wishes on your tree planting!
@@wellnessandcountrylife Thank you po for taking time to reply!!
I have another question po. I saw your land where you plant trees and it is wide. I plan to plant in a small space. So a thought crossed my mind while thinking about your video, to plant trees a little closer to each other (say from their trunks, 6 feet apart). But there is this growing "concern" about trees planted so close together their roots may try to pry each other, resulting to not bearing much fruit. I have heard about this in the late Danding Cojuangco's mango plantation. In my mind, to remedy this "concern", how about (using same distance of 6 feet between trunks) I put/plant each tree in a steel drum (open on both ends, top and bottom). I am thinking this will prevent the roots to go at another nearby tree and will instead go sprout below the lower open side of the steel drum.
Have you seen this done before? And is this OK?
I ask because as you know in the Philippines, we are visited regularly by typhoons. So I worry if a typhoon comes, it will topple the tree over because the roots may not be that spread out well because they have been restricted by the steel drum.
Thanks po ulit!
@@bocbay7480 planting in the drum could help contain the roots, but if you plant the trees too close they won't have proper air circulation and they can cause tree disease. You can also prune often to control the size of the tree. Unless you plant hybrid or.dwarf tree varieties they will be okay even without the drum and being planted too close.
You'll just need to weigh the pros and cons of your options.
I live in upstate New York and I have several clients whose trees are not doing well, fruit trees that is, I think this is the reason why they’re not doing well they weren’t planted well to begin with.
I love your little helpers 😀. I will try this.
Thank you for this sis, I have become more interested in the method ❤
That was awesome I loved every moment of it especially when you had the children helping 😀 ❤ so informative. Thanks for sharing this I am ready to start digging.
Aww thank you! I'm glad this video inspires you ❤
Thank you very much for sharing! You have explained with details
You're welcome. I am.glad it is helpful 🙂
Tess, ka daghan ug likes ani nga wonderful video. He he. Wow very resourceful! Te Jing ni, he he.
I have a huge untouched forest behind my house and i scrape all the surface material and add it to compost. So its all micro rhizomes, black live topsoil, dirt, and decaying material. Makes the best planting material for all my fruit trees. I dig out a huge hole then fill it up.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
What I would do different is measure the tree root ball confirm where the graft was so that’s not buried when you fill the hole. Measure the depth so you know exactly how the center should be left alone and dig around that center like a tower which the tree will sit on so when the soil settles over the next year or so, the tree won’t move leave 12” center. Also remove all the grass in a 4 foot circle around the center so the roots of the tree aren’t fighting for the nutrition that the grass is trying to take up.
without mentioning root electricity, this man is correct
You are fortunate to live in a place where holes can be dug so easily. Here in NE VT we have more rock than dirt. It requires blasting to dig a hole in ledge. We have worked around it.
Our soil is also rocky. But we can work around it, just require time to remove rocks as we dig.
@@wellnessandcountrylife oh yes, this is constant here. We built terraces with all the rock, fill the terraces with rotting wood, leaves etc. to make deep soil. In new beds we grow daikon radish and potatoes and let it all rot to help build soil. We cut fields with our scythes and pile this hay green in new beds too.
@@sukeywatson1281 that's great! Whatever works, and beneficial to the garden. Keep it up!
thank you. clear and precise. your kids are great helpers. namastè
Thank you! My kids are just hanging out hopefully they'll learn something.
I’m planting lots of fruit trees….. I’d love to use this method but just don’t have time So I dig a hole. Toss the top turf. Upside down in the bottom of the Hole. Then throw in some rocks and some leaves then the bare root tree and back fill with top soil .. and rock mulch. The rock mulch is great as in the summer at night when the air temp drops the rocks remain warm and water condenses on the underside of the rocks each night and drip feeds the tree. The only amendment I give is the juice from my wormery (worm farm ). And a handful of worm poop in each hole … the muse is applied in spring and summer diluted 1:10 and just a cup full. For each tree once every couple of weeks It’s more of an inoculant adding microorganisms to the planting area rather than a direct fertiliser for the. tree
Hi whatever works for you and your time, for sure..you did the best you can. Thank you for sharing yiur experience
We planted 8 fruit trees last month and it's very hot. Yes it's a lot of work that's why it takes time for us to haul all the soil and other ingredients 😀. We still have 5 more to plant and hopefully our trees survive in this heat. It looks like our trees are so stress that all the leaves died in 100 degrees temperature. You have a beautiful orchard there. Thank you for sharing. I am from Philippines too but live in US. Hopefully EGW method of planting will work for us after all.
I just bought some fruit trees and the temp is in the mid to upper 90's. I live just outside of Houston. I ordered a 30% shade cloth to protect them from the hot sun until the are established.
Mulch
Great job!
All the photos of mulch are volcano mulched. I suggest maybe revising that. The volcano mulch doesn’t allow the root flare to breath and invites borers to attack the trunk.
The mulch is just to cover the base, and help supress the weeds. Helps with moisture retention too. It's not very thick leaf mulch.
Helpful! One note - earth worms are highly invasive in North America, no one should be adding them, especially if they aren't already present.
Thank you for your comment. We didn't add earthworms because the leaf mould we added are decaying with local worms present🙂
May I ask What defines an ‘invasive’ worm. I farm worms ( red wrigglers) and cannot have enough of them. All worms are beneficial imo,
There are worm specie that are more aggressive, the jumpingworm. They can grow long and more.wiggly and thrashy, they are shallow dirt digger..if you have trees/plants that are shallow-rooted they can get disturb by the Asia jumping earthworms.
Hello, good evening. I watch thus video and wss thoroughly blessed and finally understanding this method of planting. Could you tell which one of Sister White's writings covers this planting method? I have been searching for this among her writings for a couple years now and would really appreciate it if i can read it for myself and show others. Thanks
Hello in our latest video on fruit tree planting we answered some common questions, and also gave the additional resources towards the end of the video. I hope this helps th-cam.com/video/EBHpDTbnWBI/w-d-xo.html
Ellen never wrote the method down neither did her son. A 13 year old boy did years and years later.
Excellent narration. Good video
Thank you 🙂 I hope this video gives you some idea as you plant your fruit trees.
A square hole is better for the trees/shrubs roots and You want to comb the roots out using a root comb or fork to create root spread and optimum nibari formation whilst Pruning about a 1/3 of the root ball, The rocks are for drainage, electrical conductivity and has an effect on the ph also creates air pockets - nice little orchid u have there tho 😀
Round hole saves digging-time. We normally don't cut the root ball to prevent less disturbance to the roots, but it's optional other people cut and comb the roots before planting.
We have an evidence that round hole doesn't cause the roots to go around choking the roots. I'll post the video soon.
Thank you for the comment, though.
Huh, I like how detailed this is. Very well explained. You earned a sub
Thank you new friend. I'm glad you find this video helpful. God bless!
Nice 👍🏻 video. Poor guy he looks tired 😪
I truly appreciate this video. Thank you for sharing.
I'm glad it's helpful to you. Happy planting!
Wow! Nakakabilib naman kau insan..
Hi insan. Kapoy mananum uy hahahaha!
2 corrections:
1) Moleses will lower your pH level, more acidic. Should have not put in an already acidic soil.
2) The small rocks main purspose is not for mineralization (but it is for long term). It is to charge electricity in the soil so the roots will follow the electricity charge going down deeper in the soil. A deeper roots, a better roots.
Hopes that helps. 😊
2) Wat?
Well done looks like alot of work.....nice to see the kids so involved.
Thank you so much!
Such a helpful video. Thankyou! I have a question- does the pipe at the bottom have small holes along it to allow the transfer of oxygen? Or is it solid? Thankyou.
Could you please post some pictures? As of today (9/14/2021), is about three months and I can’t wait to see how the tree is growing. Thanks!
I will. Thank you for your suggestion!
nice nice, i'll give this a go
Hi sure, let us know how your planting goes🙂
awesome video thx. i have one question. what about if you are planting your fruit trees in the fall time when the tree is dormant? With all those amendments and fertilizers. Does this comprise the tree or trick it out of dormancy? just a thought. I will be planting this way. Once again thank you for thorough explanation.
Technically, you can plant any time of the year, but spring time is what most people suggest if you live in 4 season countries. When the tree are still in dormant state and no leaves out yet. Usually if you plant towards winter it will just slow down the leaves production, but it doesn't mean it's not growing roots. God bless your planting.
thank you excellent
greetings from Panama
Thank you! Blessings
@@wellnessandcountrylife Amen Welcome !
Everyone says not to bury the grafting area of the tree where it meets the root stock or you will get unwanted growth from the stump causing the tree to grow at a different rate then the root stock. Do you bury your grafting area and if so do you see any ill affects? Thanks this is the first video that I’ve seen where results are shown years later! Great work!
Hello! Yeah, never bury the graft area. Make sure that the top of tbe dirt is level where the base of the graft it. You can watch our latest update on this newly-planted pear tree th-cam.com/video/EBHpDTbnWBI/w-d-xo.html
As an Arborist has done a lot of planting and definitely I’m not an expert but that does seem to be very deep as I can cause many issues.
In areas with lots of rain, it's best to plant trees on a slopy ground so water can run-off or drain.
The thing is though, if you have a round hole, the roots will just go round and round and round where as if they come to a flat wall they will penetrate and the root system will be far more superior. Might be a little bit extra digging but well worth the effort.
Square holes can be done, too, round holes take less time to dig. When you do round holes make sure you make gouges or poke holes on the wall using a mattock.
Are all the steps in this method variable depending on soil type? The reason I ask is that the soil in my area is very, very soft and loose. It is volcanic soil and the layers lower than about two feet are basically pumice. It is VERY easy to dig holes in! I could probably dig that same 3 x 3 hole in less than ten minutes with nothing but a shovel! In fact, it is so soft that it is hard to keep the hole from caving in as you dig. I don't think I'd need to poke holes in the sides for the roots. Given my situation, would I still need the air chamber pipe in the bottom of the hole? The soil is very well draining, almost too well!
If your soil is loose, you don't necessarily need the pipe, nor all the suggested amendments, however you still need a lot of organic matter, compost and local soil to enrich the soil that you put in the hole.
I have a few fruit and nut trees in my orchard, but the best producing is my hazelnut tree.
That's great to kmow! ❤
Where did you buy from the nut trees please? I would love to plant some varieties in my back yard, especially walnut and hazelnut, thank you!
@@albinuta4232 we got it at Lowe's garden center. You can buy it at a nursery, garden center even online stores sell it
Superbly explained. Thank you very much
I'm glad you found this video useful. God bless!
Hi, thanks for sharing! Can you tell me what are your amendments ingredients you put in your compost mixture?
Hello! We use kelp meal, sulfate of potash, soft rock phospate. For dry area add 4 cups of gypsum. For wet areas add dolomite. Sea water mineral is alternative for kelp (source of iodine). Live earthworms is highly recommended but if you use leaf mould there will be earthworm presence already. Main/basic ingredients are compost, top soil, rock phospate. Animal manure if you have it available. I hope this helps. Happy planting!
Great info! Your orchard looks awesome!
Thank you! It takes time and effort to get it going . We are still learning 😃
Good job guys 👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Proven and effective.
Wow nice good job
Thank you so much 😀
This is good for those who have soil, but where I live it's anywhere from 1 to 5" before you hit solid limestone, 3' just isn't going to happen without heavy equipment.
After plant Ellen white method , do you fertilize or when can we fertilize ? Thank you very much
The soil and whatever you put in the hole is the fertilizer. If you want to add other fertilizers after planting, you can. You can mix in the water as well. Every 6 months or once a year.
Very good information, thanks 😊
Thank you so much!
thanks. learn a lot.