To keep Deer away from any garden or orchard just run 30lb clear mono film fishing line about 18 inches high off ground. Then about every 8 ft tie on 1 foot of surveyor ribbon. they slow down at the ribbon and can't see the fishing line. When they touch the fishing line it freaks them out and they will not pass, and cant jump what they can't see. I have used this for years without any deer what so ever come into my garden. Thanks for the planting tips.... Kevin
@joem2745 I approve of this method and depending on how long you let them brine on those tree's you could have some tasty deer too. I've been able to keep a small herd of elk and many deer out of a large garden by running 3 stands of poly hot wire on a solar charger and 4ft behind the hot fence I run cheap plastic 8ft plastic fence from Amazon, I also piss on all the tree's and shoot regularly in the area. Only had one bear come in and I had accidentally left out a half gallon of fish emulsion, Molasses and liquid kelp. It looked like a diarrhea war had happened. He ain't been back for seconds 😅
Fun fact, the reason why you have better luck planting fruit trees in the fall. It’s because in the spring, they grow green foliage and new growth but in the fall. They grow bigger root masses so they can absorb more nutrients from the ground, which also keeps them from blowing over if you plant them in the spring and you have any bad storms you’re likely to have plant damage. I have over 35 years of experience planting stuff here at the Crystal Coast of North Carolina & been through 120+ hurricanes. That being said my mom has about twice as much experience in the same area and I have learned tons from that amazing woman 🙏🏼 stay blessed y’all and keep growing those green thumbs eventually turn into green hands if you keep at it 🧤🤠🎣
One of my major gripes with HGTV, This Old House and Smart Gardening on PBS is that they frequently have landscaping segments, yet they never plant fruit trees. The most one can hopeful is that one of the rehab shows decides NOT to tear out existing trees, which is not guaranteed. When I was a kid, we had a large sour cherry tree, a grape arbor and a couple of walnut trees, not counting the corn, beans and onions mom grew outback. When my parents retired, they had a lot and a half, again a sour cherry tree, strawberries, a peach tree (freestone) a pecan tree, a fig tree, and raspberry bushes. We also had a blueberry bush from which we got about 12 berries a year
Growing up on the farm We had fruit trees. Even the ones that aren't maintained produce something. I started planting fruit trees within a month of buying the farm. Hopefully future generations can enjoy them as much as I have.
Im really loving my soil right now. Im in Massachusetts, i have big rocks that i usually have to dig out. BUT my soil is super dark. Looks like compost and every time I dig i hit tons of earthworms. I went to fertilize my fruit trees and so i moved the mulch to get to the top of the roots and soon as i move the mulch wow. It was like a worm farm. Very happy.
I'm so envious...here in southerm Ohio, my ground in zone 6B is poor....not enough good topsoil....the glaciers didn't make it down this far pushing the good topsoil....
I always use a wrecking bar to losen up the clay on the bottom and add two pails of coarse sand. Then mix all that together. This allows the roots of the fruit trees to go deeper. Works like a charm.
I have hard clay soil as well in south Texas and follow the exact same steps with great results (fruit in second year mostly). It helps the tree get established faster instead of fighting for its life. Great video!
I have hard clay soil as well in south Louisiana. One thing I do different is I take as much of the top soil as I can get and some of the native clay from the hole I dug, throw it in a wheelbarrow and break it up into smaller pieces and do a 50/50 mix with my mix. As far as the water not draining, I use a plumbers probe and pop a few holes in the bottom to allow for faster draining. I also plant the tree about 4-6 inches higher than the ground level to allow for settling. So far it seems to be working like a charm
@@nuttygnomehomestead you should look into Korean natural farming it has things that help with hard clay soil using bacteria and fungus(the good kind)that is found in nature that can help soften the soil and fight bad bacteria and fungus in the soil it can also be used in many other was in farms if you raise animals that smell bad if can be used to remove the smell or at least lessen it
Wow learned a lot. Subscribed. Thanks. I was amazed over the angle of the branches and that you mentioned how you could use weights to make the branches 90 degrees. Made sense. Thanks. I want to buy a plum tree next month and was very interested in this.
I too learned the hard way , after moving to our new home. I started by building a raised bed garden twenty 4'x10' boxes. After that I started our orchard 2 of the following Apples, Peach, Pears, and Cherries all from box stores over time they all died . This fall we will purchase our trees from Starks self pollination...two to three years before they bare fruit . Hope yours grow better for you !
We just planted 24 varieties of fruit trees this spring. I agree we prefer to plant in fall but we just moved to our homestead here late summer...we have clay too and our garden soil had to be mixed with sand and a mixture of similar things you mixed yours with. The deer here are very aggressive so we did plan that extra mile and wrapped the tree with ten feet of 7 ft fencing with chicken wire around the bottom to keep rabbits out as well. We learned the hard way at our other place we lost about 8 out of our 12 fruit trees deers munching them down. It was a lot of work but worth it. We tamped three t bars into the ground and wrapped the wire fencing around the t bars. Some of our trees may need burlap wrapped around the fencing in winter we get -35 f at times. There is a method called 'Hugelkultur' from Germany in the mountainous regions (we used this method to amazing results). The hole is dug a little deeper and wider. Soak roots of tree for an hour. Pour couple gallons water into hole. We gather rotted tree branches and small stumps and that becomes first layer on bottom, then composted soil mix on top, then layer of soaked cardboard, then soil, then tree. Wouldn't hurt to add composted manure in between the soil. We learned that its the organisms in the soil that are alive and seeking starches from the tree roots in exchange for predigested minerals, that create the condition of strong immunity of the tree. When a tree is strong and healthy, pests and their larvae are not attracted to this tree, but they are drawn to a distressed and struggling tree especially those tree never pruned.
I think its a very good demo on how to plant a fruit tree. Im sure that you being a Forester probably helps aa lot. Especially when it come to the trees.
Ive grown fruit trees for 20 years all ages, as expanding the orchard through time. Always fertilize under the tree, then add a bit of dirt so it doesnt touch the roots and the new roots grow into it. . That rootball was fine, lots of feeder roots that he destroyed,without and large roots circling the bottom. If you do see circiling roots at the bottom, cut them by 1/2. My career was growing fruit trees.
Deer will eat that sob down to the graft if u dont set up wire around it. Takes little effort to keep the tree protected from wildlife. I laughed at him saying "we scare the deer away when we see them"😂
May you be blessed from all yer hard work. I just got 8 fruit trees put in, just heard of permaculture orchard...trying that route. Nitrogen fixer then 2 trees & another nitrogen fixer, & so on. 2 shrubs between trees, on treeline, also 10-15 edible perennials around @ tree. Working on shrubs & perennials now. Stefan out of Southern Quebec is a great teacher on subject. I'm excited to get my hands back in the dirt !
There is nothing more therapeutic than getting your hands dirty. All of your hard work now will pay off big dividends later. Take pride in your hard work, you've earned it.
Great video!l and helpful info. I used to use rabbit manure in the base of every hole I dug for transplants - whether trees or vegetables. Your video reminded of this - I need to reach out to the fellow I used to buy manure from. My trees are already in, so I'll have to try digging around the tree base to add manure.
I always pick the fruit off the first couple years to give the trees time to establish and avoid weak limbs and I plant apple, plum, American Chestnut, oaks, pawpaws, persimmon and about anything else you can imagine every year. Like the video!
I have soil very similiar to yours. Two things that I also do in addition to everything shown is to take a pitch fork and stab the sides of the hole, otherwise the tree can become pot bound in the hole. I also mix about 40% of the native soil in with the added "good soil" to ensure soil capillary action brings water in from the surrounding ground.
I didn't know about the baking soda. I'm going to try this. Ant's here i. My yard always seems to find my feet. I put ant killer on them but they always come back.
So one of the problems with doing the hole this way, is that the roots grow easily in the compost but won't penetrate the hard clay. In five or so years the tree is totally root bound. Often when they die and you pull them up, there is a very tight root ball the exact size of the original hole just like when they come out of a pot that they have been in to long. At least, rough up the sides of the hole.
That's exactly what happens with fruit trees that are planted in compost. Ideally, a little bit of compost can go in when planting, but it's much better to dress the tree with compost after planting so that nutrients are released slowly; this forces the tree to expand its roots. Also, fall planting is fine for southern areas, but spring will give the trees more time to establish roots before it's too cold here in the north country.
This can be the case in some instances. roughing the holes edges, a little bit of amendment in the hole and top dressing can help give the trees a better chance. Some of the trees on the orchard had to be moved a few years ago, and the roots were very impressive. Many of these trees are on their 7-8 years in the ground here. We are constantly working towards bettering our soils.
This can be remedied by mixing compost into native soil which will stimulate roots to go out. However, plants will spread roots naturally with normal environmental pressures. If it dries out plants will expand roots to search for water.
@@nuttygnomehomesteadDig up one of those 7 year trees and show us TH-camrs the root ball or lack thereof. Surely TH-cam monetization of the video will cover your tree cost, the loss of yield, & some left to buy a couple new trees. For educational purposes. Please please do it. I’ll help drive traffic to the video. Cheers.
Nice video. I suggest one thing. Before putting soil, make small holes in the bottom with crow bar or some iron rod. At the cent make a big hole with rod and rotate the rod so that it makes a canonical hole then put the soil. Roots will pernitrate into those holes and holds tight. It will give extra strength to the plant. I do with my plants like Mangos, Guava etc. Also it is better to put some stones. Roots will catch the stones and become strong. Plant will stand still for high winds.
We used to have the same situation when we lived in Colorado. Thin layer of grass over a thick layer of bentonite clay. We always had to amend soil around new trees. Now we live in an area with deep sandy soil. I still amend the soil a little bit, but only enough to give the tree a start. Everything else is top dressed in mulch and compost. Over 80% of our trees survive the first year. I’d love for it to be higher, but I’ll take 80% if the trees thrive into the later years.
As a Forester who has planted more trees than I can count, 80% or more is pretty good. And yes even in better quality soil, the trees benefit from some amendment. If we are going to put in the work of planting the trees, might as well give it the best chance.
Should be square hole so roots break through corners and don't spiral. Should also plant them high because you don't want them to settle low which can lead to trouble. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely we always ensure our trees are above the graft line. I have had to dig up several trees a few years ago to move them in our orchard. None of the roots were spiraled.
@@nuttygnomehomestead yeah the square hole vs circle is a myth, but something to consider is to mix the compost/potting mix with the clay you took out of the hole. the reason i learned from another tree planting video is if the soil you plant the tree in is way nicer than the clay it eventually has to grow into, the tree will be reluctant to do so and can cause the tree's roots to coil around in the rich dirt. that is why people think its because the hole was round.
Unfortunately you created an in ground “pot” for the tree. In the future you should put 50% of the soil back into the hole with your soil recipe. The roots will grow extremely well for the first 5 years and when the roots hit that clay soil they will start to choke itself out because it’s used to “stress free soil.” It’s never had to grow into thick tough clay and will take the path of least resistant and turn on its self. Also I’d recommend making the hole 3x the root ball size (for areas of clay soil) in width as well. Hope that’s helps and happy growing. (Just want ya to get the most from your trees)
I’m guessing neither of ya have generations of tree farms or homesteads but can agree that native trees are more resilient and can adapt to the soil conditions. He’s planting a pre grow fruit tree farmed in a precondition orchard, and most are diligently treated to favorable growing conditions, and if you haven’t conditioned the trees to your soil they will choke themselves out within 5-10 years and you will loose at least 5 years of fruit harvest. But best of luck to ya
Clay gets soft and slick when saturated. The roots can penetrate it. I see countless trees growing wild in clay soil in my area that are big and healthy.
Figs & Dwarf Everbearing Mulberry will fruit in the first year if you plant one year old saplings. You can force a new dwarf mulberry tree to fruit the first year in 45 days if you prune the branches by at least 1/3rd and strip off the leaves in mid to late July.
That’s exactly how I planted my fruit trees because my yard has very hard clay and you have to make it easier for the roots to grow strong and then they can go through the clay
Absolutely. We are always trying to improve our soil. We had gypsum and organic matter when we can. This helps break up the clay. We also plant cover crops that adds organic matter as well
@@richc.2968 , yes absolutely, but aeration isn't something you control. When you put enough things into the ground you tend to realize what watering in the plant actually does. You gotta settle the roots calmly. You can't just drop a plug of dirt and plant in the hole and cover. That's the best way to look at it. Cover. It's not filling in which watering in does.
I like to add a 4 inch layer of mulch in the spring before i plant in winter. The worms start breaking down the whole area making for easier planting. After planting i add 4 inches of mulch as well. I also mulch about a 6' square so the roots will grow wide.
Great advice. The mulch does well for weed suppression. And since the feeder roots are towards the surface, as the mulch breaks down it will feed the trees.
I usually make my hole way wider and pull most of the root wrap around it out! But l prefer chicken maneuver mixed with my compost pile at the bottom with 2 inch of regular compost on top!
I also use scape 2 by 4 to protect my tree with cheap 7ft net from Amazon! The 2 by 4 l usually can get them from home builders if you ask nicely enough! Their strap pieces that been cut off! Make a rectangular protection until the tree gets big enough!
I like to dig a hole 4ft around. Put manure in the bottom of the hole, then cover with dirt. I also put manure out around the tree when filling the hole. I leave my fill about 5 inches below the ground level. Then I like to put about 10 inches of wood chips. You rarely have to water and the wood chips feed your soil for years to come . You can always add more as they break down.
That sounds like a great technique. I have used some wood chips in my orchard, but not much as my garden uses most of them. I may have to order a few more loadsof chips and experiment
what location is this in? we are in zone 8 b down in NC.. I am very piqued by what you have done. thank you for the detailed video !! congrats on working this on horse pasture .. we have to take what our developoers and builders have done - basically strip everything before they dumped sheet rock bits and shards and nails and stuff - sift through and rejuvenate our yard ..
I have hard red clay soil . I used weathered bales of straw and alfalfa and added it to the whole to help weather retention through our dry late spring through fall
That's a good idea. With heavy amounts of clay, we like to add a lot of organic matter as well as some gypsum to help break up the clay molecules. Bales of straw and hay are an excellent source of organic matter.
I just planted Persian lime, great Fruit, mango here in zone 9 question is how many years before producing fruit maybe they were in a gallon container Thanks
My Meyer lemon produced the very first year. However, to help establish a good root system I picked all the fruit off the first year. This allows them to establish well into their container before they begin to set fruit.
Thank you for this! I made a mistake putting my apple tree saplings in ( the landscaper dug and installed them without any amendments and buried the root bulb. They’ve been in a year and are not too vigorous. Can I dig them up and replant, do you think? Any suggestion world be appreciated! Thanks.
We have dug up and transplanted fruit trees that have been planted for 3 years. I like to dig a root ball about 12" in diameter per 1" of stem thickness. Usually, I will got at least 24-36" and prune the top branches when you dig it up. You will inevitably cut a lot of deeder roots, so the top must be trimmed back as well. With that said, is the tree doing ok? If it is thriving, I would just amend the soil with an addition of compost out to the drip line of the tree.
Thank you for the reply. The trees are not vigorous. The leaves were browning a bit during the growing season. The buried root ball also worries me. I applied rabbit manure in the late summer before fall. Maybe I’ll just see what they do in the spring. Good to know that replanting and top pruning is a viable option. Thank you!
@ Thank you for taking the time to create that content. It would be incredibly interesting to view and learn. When you spoke of the middle shoot and also bending the bottom branch at 90% I was intrigued.
I buy my bare-root tree saplings from "OHIO, Columbiana SWCD". OR, one of the Washington State orchards. Mostly crabapple, nuts, pawpaws & persimmons trees. (food plots for wild game ;>) My pawpaw trees have been in the ground now for about 5-6 years, & last year, they really took off growing. I had about 50 flowers on one tree, & 10 on the other. The trees were hit with a late spring frost at full bud & I only managed to get 5 full size fruits. Fingers crossed for next year! I ONLY purchase bare-root fruit & nut trees, for the same reasons shown in your video. I hate buying root-balled trees! I use a 30-30-30% mixture to backfill my 3x over sized holes, or ditches. I use Potting soil or compost, the original dirt, & very well aged horse manure. The backfill Soils are Totally mixed together before backfilling the ditch & tree roots. The BEST WAY to start a new orchard, is to use a small backhoe. Dig deep ditch rows the full length of the orchard. 3'-4' deep, Then backfill the ditch 3/4 the way up with mixed soil. It helps to put a layer of mulch or shredded leaves on the bottom of the ditch first. That will act as a watering trough. Compact the fill, as you refill the ditch. I've done many years of testing,,, & I can safely tell you that you can't put too much 'aged' manure in those holes!! Rabbit, sheep, horse or cow. (or ACE Hardware, composted manure) I start hundreds of trees from seeds,,, nut & fruits. & many times, I'll heal-in, over-winter the 1st year saplings in 50% manure & 50% compost. They'll grow like crazy the following spring.
Have you ever fermented yeast and sugar together to feed your trees and garden with? It helps them in the heat and actually makes them taste better. I used it for the first time on my date trea and these dates taste awesome. Sweeeet. I am using it on my pecan trees too. So I will find out next month on how they taste.
Wouldn’t that also increase co2 levels for the plant as well? Hey google. Hey Jarvis. I’m very interested in that as well especially for a closet grow with less air circulation compared to outdoors.
Interesting that you say to have the branches leave the tree at a 90 degree angle so that it would be stronger. I was doing that (not for strength, but for more light). Then I found information saying that the angle should be closer to 45 to be stronger. The 45 angle makes more sense to me because the closer to vertical the branch is, the harder it is to pull it over. Maybe like holding a 10 lb weight over your head vs holding it straight out, horizontal to the ground. I guess I'll do more research on this.
The actual collar of the branch will be about 45°. The branch itself we train to try to go out to about 90°. It's not perfect, and seldom do they ever stay there. But this gives us a strong branch to support the weight of the fruit in the future. It's heartbreaking to see fruit trees overloaded with fruit tear out and damage the tree.
My route looks like this: Hole is dug 3x the root ball depth and width. When it comes to soil texture, the clay is always the uppermost layer, so digging down a little deeper might get you into the silt layer(not always). First amendment I put in, by itself, is gypsum prill(helps break up clay). Continue with all your other amendments you described...but mix them all together(not layered) AND also mix back in 1/4 of the original native soil(to reintroduce the native bacterial, fungal, protozoa, nematode and arthropod microbiology). No initial HEAVY watering after transplant...but daily light-medium waterings over a 7-10 day period.
Thank you for watching! I use 12' conduit for support poles on trees that need it. My orchard is surrounded by my woods on the south and west side. Very few of my trees have needed support.
For watering your trees and making it less intensive, you might consider trying Remiawy 20 gallon watering bags for trees. They slow drip and water your trees, and they can help protect them from deer 🦌 as they wrap around the tree trunks. Thanks for sharing 👍 ❤
I have a question for you have you ever tried to grow a pawpaw fruit tree or any experience with them? I’m looking into getting one now for I guess a strange reason but I just had to put my dog down & because it’s spelled just like a dog paw I have the crazy idea I want to plant a Paw paw tree. They say the fruit is absolutely delicious and taste like a banana mango melon all in one but being somewhat rare, the trees are fairly expensive if you can even find one. And the dog that I had to put down last Saturday actually saved my life 12 years ago when I rescued him he actually rescued me so I refuse to just bury him without planting something that will be rememberable forever.
"Have you tried to grow a pawpaw fruit tree or have any experience with them?" Hello. I wish I could show you some pictures of my 7 PawPaw trees. (If you like, give me your Email & I'll answer more questions & send you some pictures) I bought my bare root saplings from "OHIO, Columbiana SWCD". The trees have been in the ground now for about 5-6 years, & last year, they really took off. I had about 50 flowers one tree, & 10 on the other. The trees were hit with a late spring frost at full bud & I only managed to get 5 full size fruits. I ONLY purchase bare-root fruit & nut trees, for the same reasons shown in this video. I hate buying root-balled trees! I use a 30-30-30% mixture to backfill my 3x over sized holes. Potting soil, dirt, & very well aged horse manure, Totally mixed up before backfilling the tree roots.
@@nuttygnomehomestead no doubt I live on the Crystal coast born and raised, and I live about 8 miles off the ocean and supposedly they grow here naturally in the woods and if I could find one, I would dig it up unless it was a monster of course lol.
@@jdoboy6835 that’s kind of the reason why I don’t want to buy a bare root tree because well I’m impatient. I can’t lie. I don’t want to have to wait five years for a fruit tree to bear fruit. I would like to get a tree that’s about 3-4 years old roughly 4-6ft tall would be excellent honestly. Most scenarios I would grow from seed or a cutting I let root in a bucket of water but ya 6 seeds are $10-15 🤯& research says are very slow growing & very slow fruiting 4 years at the earliest & ya just not try to wait that long
Thanks for the information. I have a question on what do you do for the roots when they grow through the soil you put down and into the native clay soil?
Nothing, they will continue to grow into the clay. As a Forester, I've planted 10's of thousands of trees never had a problem with roots circling a hole like some have claimed.
Yeah, that is why I keep my trees in pots for three years and then I put them in the ground. In case I have to move around and so that I could be certain of where I want to plant them permanently.
Make your own tree tubes with clear poly roofing, two sheets drill small holes down each edge, wire or zip tie together. Any size tree tube you need. For deer get the Orbit motion activated sprinklers around perimeter (and a trail cam because deer reactions are cartoon level hilarious). Add 2-3" of mulch on top of soil, your trees will be very happy.
Unfortunately, yes. The frost can damage the peaches. However, the leaves on the trees may protect some of the peaches that already started to grow. We had a light frost this morning, and after checking our fruit, it does not appear we had too much damage.
Clay soil holds water and nutrients and plants do well. Sandy soil is total opposite. Always heard not to amend the soil because the roots won’t venture out into native soil. We get late spring freezes and just may give up on some fruits that bloom too early. I try and find late blooming. The temps are out of sync as some had blossoms on apple trees beginning of fall. I wish I had bought all cedar rust resistant also.
We definitely try to purchase disease resistant trees when we can, it makes management a lot easier. As a Forester, I've planted 10's of thousands of trees, and amending the soil is recommended when feasible. We have worked hard in our orchard to amend the soil with compost, cover crops, gypsum, etc. It's amazing the resulting change after just a few years.
When I plant my trees I leave the root ball one to two inches above ground in December about 4 months in April i have a few small fruits starting to show I'm in mid Mississippi red clay soil
I assure you that clay rich soils contain plenty of nutrients. All I have is clay and sedimentary rock and everything I have planted (that is indigenous) thrives very well.
I agree. Clay soils are fundamentally the finest soil mix one can have in their garden and orchards...but the proportions are 40 clay/40 sand/20 black rich compost soil. This mix is a great target to aim for. Lots of hard work will pay off in future growing seasons.
I used to work for Lowe's. When they asked me to stop watering the plants n go sanitize shopping carts... I walked off the job. 🤦😭 😂It was during covid so I volunteered, but I never expected it to interfere w watering.❤🤦😅 When u shop at these garden centers, u r saving plants from the garbage. 🙏😅 I appreciate this show of Love. It takes time to gather all of those things n free the roots, n whatnot. U show Love for what u do. U tucked that tree in like a newborn. 😘🙌 Thanks for posting. I'm going to find ur compost video . 🙏Asé
It will hurt it in the long run, Where in Nature doe's compost get put under tree's... no where...not on this planet.. Compost is broken down on the ground surface and nutrients are released down into the soil. Putting compost deep into your soil will cause rot and poor root growth as they struggle for oxygen because they're in rotting compost.
To keep Deer away from any garden or orchard just run 30lb clear mono film fishing line about 18 inches high off ground. Then about every 8 ft tie on 1 foot of surveyor ribbon. they slow down at the ribbon and can't see the fishing line. When they touch the fishing line it freaks them out and they will not pass, and cant jump what they can't see. I have used this for years without any deer what so ever come into my garden. Thanks for the planting tips.... Kevin
That's a good idea. I'll have to try it. Thanks
😂 great idea
Just put up a deer stand. You'll never see another one. 😅
@joem2745 I approve of this method and depending on how long you let them brine on those tree's you could have some tasty deer too.
I've been able to keep a small herd of elk and many deer out of a large garden by running 3 stands of poly hot wire on a solar charger and 4ft behind the hot fence I run cheap plastic 8ft plastic fence from Amazon, I also piss on all the tree's and shoot regularly in the area. Only had one bear come in and I had accidentally left out a half gallon of fish emulsion, Molasses and liquid kelp. It looked like a diarrhea war had happened. He ain't been back for seconds 😅
Love that idea ❤
Fun fact, the reason why you have better luck planting fruit trees in the fall. It’s because in the spring, they grow green foliage and new growth but in the fall. They grow bigger root masses so they can absorb more nutrients from the ground, which also keeps them from blowing over if you plant them in the spring and you have any bad storms you’re likely to have plant damage. I have over 35 years of experience planting stuff here at the Crystal Coast of North Carolina & been through 120+ hurricanes. That being said my mom has about twice as much experience in the same area and I have learned tons from that amazing woman 🙏🏼 stay blessed y’all and keep growing those green thumbs eventually turn into green hands if you keep at it 🧤🤠🎣
One of my major gripes with HGTV, This Old House and Smart Gardening on PBS is that they frequently have landscaping segments, yet they never plant fruit trees. The most one can hopeful is that one of the rehab shows decides NOT to tear out existing trees, which is not guaranteed.
When I was a kid, we had a large sour cherry tree, a grape arbor and a couple of walnut trees, not counting the corn, beans and onions mom grew outback.
When my parents retired, they had a lot and a half, again a sour cherry tree, strawberries, a peach tree (freestone) a pecan tree, a fig tree, and raspberry bushes. We also had a blueberry bush from which we got about 12 berries a year
Growing up on the farm We had fruit trees. Even the ones that aren't maintained produce something. I started planting fruit trees within a month of buying the farm. Hopefully future generations can enjoy them as much as I have.
Im really loving my soil right now. Im in Massachusetts, i have big rocks that i usually have to dig out. BUT my soil is super dark. Looks like compost and every time I dig i hit tons of earthworms. I went to fertilize my fruit trees and so i moved the mulch to get to the top of the roots and soon as i move the mulch wow. It was like a worm farm. Very happy.
That is awesome! It definitely helps if you have good soil to start with.
Did you do anything to your soil or was it always awesome like that?
I'm so envious...here in southerm Ohio, my ground in zone 6B is poor....not enough good topsoil....the glaciers didn't make it down this far pushing the good topsoil....
I am from Massachusetts. When I was a kid I thought all soil was black because that's all I ever saw. If you drop seeds into that soil they grow fast.
The Mafia didn't use to own that place did they? 😄
Hearing the birds I cannot wait for spring!
It will be here before we know it. I'll be starting seeds soon, can't wait.
I always use a wrecking bar to losen up the clay on the bottom and add two pails of coarse sand. Then mix all that together. This allows the roots of the fruit trees to go deeper. Works like a charm.
I have hard clay soil as well in south Texas and follow the exact same steps with great results (fruit in second year mostly). It helps the tree get established faster instead of fighting for its life. Great video!
That's awesome. It really does make a difference in the overall health and production of the tree.
I have hard clay soil as well in south Louisiana. One thing I do different is I take as much of the top soil as I can get and some of the native clay from the hole I dug, throw it in a wheelbarrow and break it up into smaller pieces and do a 50/50 mix with my mix. As far as the water not draining, I use a plumbers probe and pop a few holes in the bottom to allow for faster draining. I also plant the tree about 4-6 inches higher than the ground level to allow for settling. So far it seems to be working like a charm
@@nuttygnomehomestead you should look into Korean natural farming it has things that help with hard clay soil using bacteria and fungus(the good kind)that is found in nature that can help soften the soil and fight bad bacteria and fungus in the soil it can also be used in many other was in farms if you raise animals that smell bad if can be used to remove the smell or at least lessen it
Wow learned a lot. Subscribed. Thanks. I was amazed over the angle of the branches and that you mentioned how you could use weights to make the branches 90 degrees. Made sense. Thanks. I want to buy a plum tree next month and was very interested in this.
Thank you!
I too learned the hard way , after moving to our new home. I started by building a raised bed garden twenty 4'x10' boxes. After that I started our orchard 2 of the following Apples, Peach, Pears, and Cherries all from box stores over time they all died . This fall we will purchase our trees from Starks self pollination...two to three years before they bare fruit . Hope yours grow better for you !
I just bought a couple fruit trees and I'm excited to get them in the ground. Thanks for the tips!
You are welcome! What kind of trees did you get?
We just planted 24 varieties of fruit trees this spring. I agree we prefer to plant in fall but we just moved to our homestead here late summer...we have clay too and our garden soil had to be mixed with sand and a mixture of similar things you mixed yours with. The deer here are very aggressive so we did plan that extra mile and wrapped the tree with ten feet of 7 ft fencing with chicken wire around the bottom to keep rabbits out as well. We learned the hard way at our other place we lost about 8 out of our 12 fruit trees deers munching them down. It was a lot of work but worth it. We tamped three t bars into the ground and wrapped the wire fencing around the t bars. Some of our trees may need burlap wrapped around the fencing in winter we get -35 f at times.
There is a method called 'Hugelkultur' from Germany in the mountainous regions (we used this method to amazing results). The hole is dug a little deeper and wider. Soak roots of tree for an hour. Pour couple gallons water into hole. We gather rotted tree branches and small stumps and that becomes first layer on bottom, then composted soil mix on top, then layer of soaked cardboard, then soil, then tree. Wouldn't hurt to add composted manure in between the soil.
We learned that its the organisms in the soil that are alive and seeking starches from the tree roots in exchange for predigested minerals, that create the condition of strong immunity of the tree. When a tree is strong and healthy, pests and their larvae are not attracted to this tree, but they are drawn to a distressed and struggling tree especially those tree never pruned.
I think its a very good demo on how to plant a fruit tree. Im sure that you being a Forester probably helps aa lot. Especially when it come to the trees.
Thank you, I have learned a lot over the years working with trees.
"Great Channel, Instruction,
Instructor !"
Thank You Great Shepherd !"❤
😁👍
Thank you
Ive grown fruit trees for 20 years all ages, as expanding the orchard through time. Always fertilize under the tree, then add a bit of dirt so it doesnt touch the roots and the new roots grow into it. .
That rootball was fine, lots of feeder roots that he destroyed,without and large roots circling the bottom. If you do see circiling roots at the bottom, cut them by 1/2. My career was growing fruit trees.
Good advice. What fertilizer do you use?
Make sure you dont cover graft point with dirt or it will turn back into a crab apple
Deer will eat that sob down to the graft if u dont set up wire around it. Takes little effort to keep the tree protected from wildlife. I laughed at him saying "we scare the deer away when we see them"😂
Idiot deer favorite food! Can't be here 24 hrs!!!
@@Maugwabest method (affordable) for keeping out deer from new fruit trees, please? We cannot afford a fence around the perimeter right now.
Just discovered this EXCELLENT channel and just subscribed. Enjoyed your video!
Thank you very much
Thanks so much. I’ve lost several because I didn’t know what I was doing! I so appreciate your time and sharing. You’re a wise dude!
I'm glad I could help.
Great information! Thank you for sharing
.
May you be blessed from all yer hard work. I just got 8 fruit trees put in, just heard of permaculture orchard...trying that route. Nitrogen fixer then 2 trees & another nitrogen fixer, & so on. 2 shrubs between trees, on treeline, also 10-15 edible perennials around @ tree. Working on shrubs & perennials now. Stefan out of Southern Quebec is a great teacher on subject. I'm excited to get my hands back in the dirt !
There is nothing more therapeutic than getting your hands dirty. All of your hard work now will pay off big dividends later. Take pride in your hard work, you've earned it.
Great video!l and helpful info. I used to use rabbit manure in the base of every hole I dug for transplants - whether trees or vegetables.
Your video reminded of this - I need to reach out to the fellow I used to buy manure from.
My trees are already in, so I'll have to try digging around the tree base to add manure.
Rabbit manure is worth its weight in gold. That stuff does wonders for all of my plants.
Great video! I learned a lot sir! Keep making videos!
I always pick the fruit off the first couple years to give the trees time to establish and avoid weak limbs and I plant apple, plum, American Chestnut, oaks, pawpaws, persimmon and about anything else you can imagine every year. Like the video!
Yes, it is hard to do sometimes. But, the rewards are worth it.
I have soil very similiar to yours. Two things that I also do in addition to everything shown is to take a pitch fork and stab the sides of the hole, otherwise the tree can become pot bound in the hole. I also mix about 40% of the native soil in with the added "good soil" to ensure soil capillary action brings water in from the surrounding ground.
Good advice.
We have started using a drill with wood bit to make deep holes throughout the lower sides and bottom.
This was such a thoughtful and thorough video. Thank you so much!
Thank you for watching!
Good job! Thanks for sharing your insights.
Excellent information.....truly appreciate your video....The common sense approach, your speaking and sound levels are excellent. Thank you.
Thank you for the feedback
Greetings from Southern Ontario, my friend you have the mos informative video on planting fruit tree's i have seen, thank you God bless.
Clay is very good because here in NJ the trees and plants are growing very well and is clay all 🎉
Excellent information. Thank you
Good man, good video, snazzy shoes just like mine
God bless you and your family Brother ✝️
Thank you!
Great video. I'm going to try this with my new fruit trees
I planted both my apple trees in 42” wide 17” high raised beds haha. I control everything now :)
i subscribed before you even finished saying "mornin folks"
Thank you!
Just found your channel. Southern illinois here also. Union county. Thanks for the info.
You're welcome.
Thanks for the advice
Great video n video !! Going to try n find your soil video for that sweet compost you made !! Thx n God Bless !! 😎🇺🇸
Thank you for watching!
Thank you I have 2 peach 2 apples and a plumb I need to get planted so thank you for this vid
You're welcome
I wonder 💭 if the fruit will be sweeter if you add a dusting of Baking Soda around the trees base 🌳?
It will keep snails 🐌 slugs and 🐜 Ants away 👀
I didn't know about the baking soda. I'm going to try this. Ant's here i. My yard always seems to find my feet. I put ant killer on them but they always come back.
Excellent presentation!
I really like your idea of planting. Thank you this is very smart
❤❤thanks a bunch, I am growing apple trees
So one of the problems with doing the hole this way, is that the roots grow easily in the compost but won't penetrate the hard clay. In five or so years the tree is totally root bound. Often when they die and you pull them up, there is a very tight root ball the exact size of the original hole just like when they come out of a pot that they have been in to long.
At least, rough up the sides of the hole.
That's exactly what happens with fruit trees that are planted in compost. Ideally, a little bit of compost can go in when planting, but it's much better to dress the tree with compost after planting so that nutrients are released slowly; this forces the tree to expand its roots. Also, fall planting is fine for southern areas, but spring will give the trees more time to establish roots before it's too cold here in the north country.
This can be the case in some instances. roughing the holes edges, a little bit of amendment in the hole and top dressing can help give the trees a better chance. Some of the trees on the orchard had to be moved a few years ago, and the roots were very impressive. Many of these trees are on their 7-8 years in the ground here. We are constantly working towards bettering our soils.
Thank you for this tip
This can be remedied by mixing compost into native soil which will stimulate roots to go out. However, plants will spread roots naturally with normal environmental pressures. If it dries out plants will expand roots to search for water.
@@nuttygnomehomesteadDig up one of those 7 year trees and show us TH-camrs the root ball or lack thereof. Surely TH-cam monetization of the video will cover your tree cost, the loss of yield, & some left to buy a couple new trees. For educational purposes. Please please do it. I’ll help drive traffic to the video. Cheers.
Nice video. I suggest one thing. Before putting soil, make small holes in the bottom with crow bar or some iron rod. At the cent make a big hole with rod and rotate the rod so that it makes a canonical hole then put the soil. Roots will pernitrate into those holes and holds tight. It will give extra strength to the plant. I do with my plants like Mangos, Guava etc. Also it is better to put some stones. Roots will catch the stones and become strong. Plant will stand still for high winds.
That's a good idea.
Thank you, very helpful video!
Just ran across your channel.
Great video. Just subbed.
💪🏼💕
Thanks for watching, I am glad you like my videos!
We used to have the same situation when we lived in Colorado. Thin layer of grass over a thick layer of bentonite clay. We always had to amend soil around new trees. Now we live in an area with deep sandy soil. I still amend the soil a little bit, but only enough to give the tree a start. Everything else is top dressed in mulch and compost. Over 80% of our trees survive the first year. I’d love for it to be higher, but I’ll take 80% if the trees thrive into the later years.
As a Forester who has planted more trees than I can count, 80% or more is pretty good. And yes even in better quality soil, the trees benefit from some amendment. If we are going to put in the work of planting the trees, might as well give it the best chance.
Planting trees this way is very good
Should be square hole so roots break through corners and don't spiral. Should also plant them high because you don't want them to settle low which can lead to trouble. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely we always ensure our trees are above the graft line. I have had to dig up several trees a few years ago to move them in our orchard. None of the roots were spiraled.
@@nuttygnomehomestead yeah the square hole vs circle is a myth, but something to consider is to mix the compost/potting mix with the clay you took out of the hole. the reason i learned from another tree planting video is if the soil you plant the tree in is way nicer than the clay it eventually has to grow into, the tree will be reluctant to do so and can cause the tree's roots to coil around in the rich dirt. that is why people think its because the hole was round.
I roughen/score the walls of the hole.
I also make my hole a lot wider.
@@kathleenredick275 that sounds dirty.... :P
@@noyoudontgettoknow8586 😂😂
Great information thanks
Unfortunately you created an in ground “pot” for the tree. In the future you should put 50% of the soil back into the hole with your soil recipe. The roots will grow extremely well for the first 5 years and when the roots hit that clay soil they will start to choke itself out because it’s used to “stress free soil.” It’s never had to grow into thick tough clay and will take the path of least resistant and turn on its self. Also I’d recommend making the hole 3x the root ball size (for areas of clay soil) in width as well. Hope that’s helps and happy growing. (Just want ya to get the most from your trees)
You obviously never seen a full grown trees roots they are gonna stretch the size of the tree sir actually 😅
Roots can break rocks. Nature finds its way
I’m guessing neither of ya have generations of tree farms or homesteads but can agree that native trees are more resilient and can adapt to the soil conditions. He’s planting a pre grow fruit tree farmed in a precondition orchard, and most are diligently treated to favorable growing conditions, and if you haven’t conditioned the trees to your soil they will choke themselves out within 5-10 years and you will loose at least 5 years of fruit harvest. But best of luck to ya
Clay gets soft and slick when saturated. The roots can penetrate it. I see countless trees growing wild in clay soil in my area that are big and healthy.
I planted my fruit trees the Ellen White way and got fruit the first year !
That is awesome. Congratulations! It has always so exciting when you get to enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Figs & Dwarf Everbearing Mulberry will fruit in the first year if you plant one year old saplings. You can force a new dwarf mulberry tree to fruit the first year in 45 days if you prune the branches by at least 1/3rd and strip off the leaves in mid to late July.
That’s exactly how I planted my fruit trees because my yard has very hard clay and you have to make it easier for the roots to grow strong and then they can go through the clay
Absolutely. We are always trying to improve our soil. We had gypsum and organic matter when we can. This helps break up the clay. We also plant cover crops that adds organic matter as well
I definitely learned first hand about air pockets. Had leaves keep dying till i got that corrected
It happens, ive done the same thing. Glad you got it figured out.
Can you elaborate about gaps of air? Don't you want nicely aerated soil? I can see huge gaps being problems but isn't aerated soil good?
@@richc.2968 , yes absolutely, but aeration isn't something you control. When you put enough things into the ground you tend to realize what watering in the plant actually does. You gotta settle the roots calmly. You can't just drop a plug of dirt and plant in the hole and cover. That's the best way to look at it. Cover. It's not filling in which watering in does.
I like to add a 4 inch layer of mulch in the spring before i plant in winter. The worms start breaking down the whole area making for easier planting. After planting i add 4 inches of mulch as well. I also mulch about a 6' square so the roots will grow wide.
Great advice. The mulch does well for weed suppression. And since the feeder roots are towards the surface, as the mulch breaks down it will feed the trees.
Thank you this was so helpful I have been planting my trees wrong I will try it your way thank you
Nothing better than southern Illinois clay
Yep. But over the years we have been able to improve the soil. It's a slow process for sure.
Northern Illinois clay is no better - lol
Nice job!
Glad you enjoyed the video!
THANKS FOR THE INFO,,, MANY BLESSINGS ❤❤❤❤
I usually make my hole way wider and pull most of the root wrap around it out! But l prefer chicken maneuver mixed with my compost pile at the bottom with 2 inch of regular compost on top!
That sounds like a great method. I have a lot of chickens, I typically use their manure as the main base in my compost pile.
I also use scape 2 by 4 to protect my tree with cheap 7ft net from Amazon! The 2 by 4 l usually can get them from home builders if you ask nicely enough! Their strap pieces that been cut off! Make a rectangular protection until the tree gets big enough!
I miss my southern Il soil in Clinton county. I'm in Mo now,,,,home of clay and rock. UGH Thanks for the tips
Super Cool video! Loved the content and just subscribed!
Thank you!
Very informative,,thanks for shring,I'm planing tohelp my young friend and i mentioned he should planting fruit tree's and berry bush's thanks
You are welcome. Let us know how the planting goes!
I'm happy fir you😊
Thks fo great advise putting manure in the hole with potting soil is very healthy fo trees becos rain washed them away if put around plants.
I would have mixed up all of it with som of that clay so no to get heavy light soil problem . looking like your doing well with it good for you.
think i need to do that with my next trees
I like to dig a hole 4ft around. Put manure in the bottom of the hole, then cover with dirt. I also put manure out around the tree when filling the hole. I leave my fill about 5 inches below the ground level. Then I like to put about 10 inches of wood chips. You rarely have to water and the wood chips feed your soil for years to come . You can always add more as they break down.
That sounds like a great technique. I have used some wood chips in my orchard, but not much as my garden uses most of them. I may have to order a few more loadsof chips and experiment
what location is this in? we are in zone 8 b down in NC.. I am very piqued by what you have done. thank you for the detailed video !! congrats on working this on horse pasture .. we have to take what our developoers and builders have done - basically strip everything before they dumped sheet rock bits and shards and nails and stuff - sift through and rejuvenate our yard ..
same! And then they drove over it 1000 times with a bulldozer and compacted it to the point it may as well be concrete!
We're in zone 7a. Southern Illinois
I have hard red clay soil . I used weathered bales of straw and alfalfa and added it to the whole to help weather retention through our dry late spring through fall
That's a good idea. With heavy amounts of clay, we like to add a lot of organic matter as well as some gypsum to help break up the clay molecules. Bales of straw and hay are an excellent source of organic matter.
I just planted Persian lime, great Fruit, mango here in zone 9 question is how many years before producing fruit maybe they were in a gallon container Thanks
My Meyer lemon produced the very first year. However, to help establish a good root system I picked all the fruit off the first year. This allows them to establish well into their container before they begin to set fruit.
Great Video Sir
Thank you
Thank you allways learning
Thank you for this! I made a mistake putting my apple tree saplings in ( the landscaper dug and installed them without any amendments and buried the root bulb. They’ve been in a year and are not too vigorous. Can I dig them up and replant, do you think? Any suggestion world be appreciated! Thanks.
We have dug up and transplanted fruit trees that have been planted for 3 years. I like to dig a root ball about 12" in diameter per 1" of stem thickness. Usually, I will got at least 24-36" and prune the top branches when you dig it up. You will inevitably cut a lot of deeder roots, so the top must be trimmed back as well. With that said, is the tree doing ok? If it is thriving, I would just amend the soil with an addition of compost out to the drip line of the tree.
Thank you for the reply. The trees are not vigorous. The leaves were browning a bit during the growing season. The buried root ball also worries me. I applied rabbit manure in the late summer before fall. Maybe I’ll just see what they do in the spring. Good to know that replanting and top pruning is a viable option. Thank you!
I have learned so much in the the last 17 minutes. Am I able to watch a pruning Fruit trees on your Channel?
I will be making a video on pruning the fruit trees soon.
@ Thank you for taking the time to create that content. It would be incredibly interesting to view and learn. When you spoke of the middle shoot and also bending the bottom branch at 90% I was intrigued.
I buy my bare-root tree saplings from "OHIO, Columbiana SWCD". OR, one of the Washington State orchards.
Mostly crabapple, nuts, pawpaws & persimmons trees. (food plots for wild game ;>)
My pawpaw trees have been in the ground now for about 5-6 years, & last year, they really took off growing. I had about 50 flowers on one tree, & 10 on the other. The trees were hit with a late spring frost at full bud & I only managed to get 5 full size fruits. Fingers crossed for next year!
I ONLY purchase bare-root fruit & nut trees, for the same reasons shown in your video. I hate buying root-balled trees!
I use a 30-30-30% mixture to backfill my 3x over sized holes, or ditches. I use Potting soil or compost, the original dirt, & very well aged horse manure. The backfill Soils are Totally mixed together before backfilling the ditch & tree roots.
The BEST WAY to start a new orchard, is to use a small backhoe. Dig deep ditch rows the full length of the orchard. 3'-4' deep, Then backfill the ditch 3/4 the way up with mixed soil. It helps to put a layer of mulch or shredded leaves on the bottom of the ditch first.
That will act as a watering trough.
Compact the fill, as you refill the ditch.
I've done many years of testing,,, & I can safely tell you that you can't put too much 'aged' manure in those holes!! Rabbit, sheep, horse or cow. (or ACE Hardware, composted manure)
I start hundreds of trees from seeds,,, nut & fruits. & many times, I'll heal-in, over-winter the 1st year saplings in 50% manure & 50% compost. They'll grow like crazy the following spring.
Have you ever fermented yeast and sugar together to feed your trees and garden with? It helps them in the heat and actually makes them taste better. I used it for the first time on my date trea and these dates taste awesome. Sweeeet. I am using it on my pecan trees too. So I will find out next month on how they taste.
I have not. I will definitely be looking into it though
Wouldn’t that also increase co2 levels for the plant as well? Hey google. Hey Jarvis. I’m very interested in that as well especially for a closet grow with less air circulation compared to outdoors.
@Euthymia2020 No it would not.
Interesting that you say to have the branches leave the tree at a 90 degree angle so that it would be stronger. I was doing that (not for strength, but for more light). Then I found information saying that the angle should be closer to 45 to be stronger. The 45 angle makes more sense to me because the closer to vertical the branch is, the harder it is to pull it over. Maybe like holding a 10 lb weight over your head vs holding it straight out, horizontal to the ground.
I guess I'll do more research on this.
The actual collar of the branch will be about 45°. The branch itself we train to try to go out to about 90°. It's not perfect, and seldom do they ever stay there. But this gives us a strong branch to support the weight of the fruit in the future. It's heartbreaking to see fruit trees overloaded with fruit tear out and damage the tree.
❤❤❤❤❤love your video from Gardening with kirk
Thank you
you can strategically use some gypsum in your land if you have clay soil.
Absolutely! Gypsum is great for clay soil.
My route looks like this: Hole is dug 3x the root ball depth and width. When it comes to soil texture, the clay is always the uppermost layer, so digging down a little deeper might get you into the silt layer(not always). First amendment I put in, by itself, is gypsum prill(helps break up clay). Continue with all your other amendments you described...but mix them all together(not layered) AND also mix back in 1/4 of the original native soil(to reintroduce the native bacterial, fungal, protozoa, nematode and arthropod microbiology). No initial HEAVY watering after transplant...but daily light-medium waterings over a 7-10 day period.
Great video! i was wondering though how do you keep the base around the trees clear of weeds and grass? do you mulch at all?
We have used landscape fabric for weed control. Typically by the time it breaks down and needs replaced, the tree is well established.
Good content. Thank you.
Much enjoyed but why no stake to secure against the impact of prevailing winds ?
Thank you for watching! I use 12' conduit for support poles on trees that need it. My orchard is surrounded by my woods on the south and west side. Very few of my trees have needed support.
Try planting Rosemary around the edges of the orchard to deter the deer.
For watering your trees and making it less intensive, you might consider trying Remiawy 20 gallon watering bags for trees. They slow drip and water your trees, and they can help protect them from deer 🦌 as they wrap around the tree trunks.
Thanks for sharing 👍 ❤
The
The
I have a question for you have you ever tried to grow a pawpaw fruit tree or any experience with them? I’m looking into getting one now for I guess a strange reason but I just had to put my dog down & because it’s spelled just like a dog paw I have the crazy idea I want to plant a Paw paw tree. They say the fruit is absolutely delicious and taste like a banana mango melon all in one but being somewhat rare, the trees are fairly expensive if you can even find one.
And the dog that I had to put down last Saturday actually saved my life 12 years ago when I rescued him he actually rescued me so I refuse to just bury him without planting something that will be rememberable forever.
"Have you tried to grow a pawpaw fruit tree or have any experience with them?"
Hello. I wish I could show you some pictures of my 7 PawPaw trees. (If you like, give me your Email & I'll answer more questions & send you some pictures)
I bought my bare root saplings from "OHIO, Columbiana SWCD". The trees have been in the ground now for about 5-6 years, & last year, they really took off. I had about 50 flowers one tree, & 10 on the other. The trees were hit with a late spring frost at full bud & I only managed to get 5 full size fruits.
I ONLY purchase bare-root fruit & nut trees, for the same reasons shown in this video. I hate buying root-balled trees!
I use a 30-30-30% mixture to backfill my 3x over sized holes. Potting soil, dirt, & very well aged horse manure, Totally mixed up before backfilling the tree roots.
Unfortunately I do not have experience growing them, but I do harvest them from my woods. They are delicious!
@@nuttygnomehomestead no doubt I live on the Crystal coast born and raised, and I live about 8 miles off the ocean and supposedly they grow here naturally in the woods and if I could find one, I would dig it up unless it was a monster of course lol.
@@jdoboy6835 that’s kind of the reason why I don’t want to buy a bare root tree because well I’m impatient. I can’t lie. I don’t want to have to wait five years for a fruit tree to bear fruit. I would like to get a tree that’s about 3-4 years old roughly 4-6ft tall would be excellent honestly. Most scenarios I would grow from seed or a cutting I let root in a bucket of water but ya 6 seeds are $10-15 🤯& research says are very slow growing & very slow fruiting 4 years at the earliest & ya just not try to wait that long
Very nice ❤❤❤
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the information. I have a question on what do you do for the roots when they grow through the soil you put down and into the native clay soil?
Nothing, they will continue to grow into the clay. As a Forester, I've planted 10's of thousands of trees never had a problem with roots circling a hole like some have claimed.
Thank you
You are very welcome
Very good info. I have some apple trees
Yeah, that is why I keep my trees in pots for three years and then I put them in the ground. In case I have to move around and so that I could be certain of where I want to plant them permanently.
Make your own tree tubes with clear poly roofing, two sheets drill small holes down each edge, wire or zip tie together. Any size tree tube you need.
For deer get the Orbit motion activated sprinklers around perimeter (and a trail cam because deer reactions are cartoon level hilarious).
Add 2-3" of mulch on top of soil, your trees will be very happy.
Thanks buddy
You're welcome!
Really nice peach bud's started, will frost hurt already started tiny peach starts?
Unfortunately, yes. The frost can damage the peaches. However, the leaves on the trees may protect some of the peaches that already started to grow. We had a light frost this morning, and after checking our fruit, it does not appear we had too much damage.
Clay soil holds water and nutrients and plants do well. Sandy soil is total opposite. Always heard not to amend the soil because the roots won’t venture out into native soil. We get late spring freezes and just may give up on some fruits that bloom too early. I try and find late blooming.
The temps are out of sync as some had blossoms on apple trees beginning of fall. I wish I had bought all cedar rust resistant also.
We definitely try to purchase disease resistant trees when we can, it makes management a lot easier. As a Forester, I've planted 10's of thousands of trees, and amending the soil is recommended when feasible. We have worked hard in our orchard to amend the soil with compost, cover crops, gypsum, etc. It's amazing the resulting change after just a few years.
Thx
You're welcome!
Outstanding 😊
When I plant my trees I leave the root ball one to two inches above ground in December about 4 months in April i have a few small fruits starting to show I'm in mid Mississippi red clay soil
I assure you that clay rich soils contain plenty of nutrients. All I have is clay and sedimentary rock and everything I have planted (that is indigenous) thrives very well.
I agree. Clay soils are fundamentally the finest soil mix one can have in their garden and orchards...but the proportions are 40 clay/40 sand/20 black rich compost soil. This mix is a great target to aim for. Lots of hard work will pay off in future growing seasons.
I used to work for Lowe's. When they asked me to stop watering the plants n go sanitize shopping carts...
I walked off the job. 🤦😭 😂It was during covid so I volunteered, but I never expected it to interfere w watering.❤🤦😅
When u shop at these garden centers, u r saving plants from the garbage. 🙏😅
I appreciate this show of Love. It takes time to gather all of those things n free the roots, n whatnot. U show Love for what u do. U tucked that tree in like a newborn. 😘🙌 Thanks for posting. I'm going to find ur compost video . 🙏Asé
Yep. I pay more and go to a nursery because the trees at Home Depot & TSC are not cared for and always look stressed. No need to deal with that. 😢
Mending the soil this way it will benefit the tree and I agree for what he is doing thank you for sharing ❤
It will hurt it in the long run, Where in Nature doe's compost get put under tree's... no where...not on this planet.. Compost is broken down on the ground surface and nutrients are released down into the soil. Putting compost deep into your soil will cause rot and poor root growth as they struggle for oxygen because they're in rotting compost.
Good info! Thx!
You are welcome