Hi . Thank you . I just want to share what I've learnt over the years and hopefully it may help some people along the way . Thanks again for watching the video and for your comment its much appreciated 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Please do us a solid mate.. How about a few repairs on "weathered" boards with less than ideal pads. Perhaps show the difference between these RA flux's and the equivalent "no clean" lots. I have no doubt you've seen the "debauchery" many of these professional TH-camrs are performing on boards. I'm not convinced you don't cringe at what many of these "pros" are doing.
I soldered some SMD caps today and got one on the 'wonk'. It's electrically correct, but it's annoying me SO MUCH. Unfortunately, I don't currently have the skill to correct it, so I have to let it go. But Grr ... :) Your channel inspires me to conquer this.
Hi , thank you for your supporting of my channel , very kind of you . What you find is the more fussy you get with your soldering work , quality wise , you will be able to do harder and harder projects as your skills will benefit so much from being quality driven . Thanks again 👍
I want to say a real big thank you to you as with your help and videos you gave me the confidence so I was able to bridge traces and recap a board which has made a old nes console come back to life. You are a legend.
Hi . Thank you for your support . I'm really pleased I could help you out and that's why I make these videos to try and help people overcome certain problems . You will get more confident the more you do ( that's what I found ) so keep it going . Good luck and thanks again 👍
Hi , thank you for your support , very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos . I will always post more when I get some spare time . All the best , take care 👍
You're a true Brazilian! Your videos are all about soldering and the Brazilian flag. Green and yellow, a well matching combination indeed. It's amazing how well your lead free solder works through the gaps and seeps into the seams. Hope you'll go into USB and HDMI connectors used in modern consumer electronics. Thank you for the effort! A great video as always.
Hi . Thank you .The Brazilian flag was picked because I just liked it ( I've never even been there ) . Some of the modern lead free solders are great compared to years ago when they started to come into the workplace. I get all my solders from a place in England called BLT Circuits . There stuff is always good quality. Beware of cheap solders , not to be trusted in my opinion . I will definitely do a video on modern connectors sometime ( there's still loads for me to cover yet ) and as USB and HDMI are pretty common I will try and include them . Thank you for the suggestion and your support 👍
I love to adhere to the "BTF" aka "better than factory" soldering slogan and I believe in it.. am an apprentice of yours...thanks so much for these soldering tricks, good commentary, outstanding guidance and explanation....lol
Great video! I have to recap an old drum sampler from Yamaha. RS7000. Lot’s of cap’s. I see you prefer a conical tip. I have some from JBC, I also have some flat ones, but I’m going to use the conical’s.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I mainly use the 2 tips I show in most of my videos , a small conical one and a large flat sided one . I have others , larger conicals , chisel tip etc which I do use at times if the job requires it but normally it's these 2 . I hope you get on ok . Thanks again , take care 👍
Great to see information like this so well filmed, nicely zoomed in, with decent lighting so you can actually see what's going on. Thanks :-) A comment on the capactior removal; I've begun practicing soldering as I've started working on vintage electronics - I'd be scared to twist those caps as often they've leaked and damaged the pads below / around them
Hi . Thank you for your comment , much appreciated . Regarding the capacitor removal , you might be doing the right thing if you have leaked Capacitors and potentially weak / damaged pads . I normally use 2 soldering irons and take them off this way but sometimes this does not work so I revert to the twist method . It's a pretty safe method , especially if you hold down the small amount of leg you can see and twist both ways very gently . But I understand your caution . Good luck with whatever you do and thanks again for your support 👍
Hi . Thank you for your nice comment . I just want to show people how I personally solder components so maybe it will help a few people when they need a bit of guidance. If this is the case it's worth doing these guides. Thanks again 👍
Very well put together video. Very informative I enjoyed all three videos. Thank you for the crystal clear videos. Looking forward to all your upcoming videos.
Hi . Thank you for your comment much appreciated. Glad you enjoyed the video's , I will post more videos as soon as I have some spare time. Thanks again 👍
Hi . Thank you for watching , much appreciated . Hope you find the videos useful , that's all I want to do try and help people if I can. I will post more videos when I can , so thanks again for your time 👍
What I’ve noticed in your soldering videos which are excellent I must say is the way you remove the soldering iron from the connection. You lift it directly off instead of moving it to the side. By doing it that way I notice how you get that smooth concentric dome of solder. What temperature is a good temperature to start at? Now back to the video. Thank You 👍
Hi . The temperature I generally do most of my soldering at these days is about 350 - 365 degrees centigrade as mostly I do lead free soldering . For leaded soldering you can lower this a little . I just use larger tips if I have large ground plains etc . In the end you get to know what you need for each situation you face. Everyone can get better the more they solder and you can never stop learning. Good luck with all your soldering projects and thank you again for your support . I will post more videos when i can 👍
Hi . Thank you for your comment. I'm glad your enjoying these smd guides , I will be doing a few more in this series yet. I will also be doing other soldering videos like I was doing before so hopefully amongst them you may find some useful . Thanks again for your support , very much appreciated 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I do have a question about flux, I can't (easily) get hold of your recommended flux, my local electronics shop only sells a 'paste' which comes in a syringe. Do you have any thoughts on that or should I look further afield? The application is not too tricky, I'm assembling a Morserino32 kit. Y
Hi . I have seen people use a type of paste flux that comes in a syringe and get on very well with it . Sometimes the stuff that comes in a syringe is slightly thicker which In my opinion will still be good to use, so I would say get some of what your shop is selling . Hope you get on ok . Thank you for watching my channel 👍
Hi . Some soldering techniques have taken me a long time to learn correctly . That's why I always say to people , don't give up , you will get better with practice. It feels good when you finally master certain techniques but to do this you will need better equipment as you progress your skills 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . Even though this twisting method looks quite risky I've never , ever damaged a pad doing it . For extra safety if you feel you need it you can place a pair of tweezers or pliers in top of the joints and then slowly twist , a tiny amount each way . You will soon feel the legs on the component body getting weaker and then it's easy to twist off . Then simply remove both parts from their pads . I've struggled at times over the years with very large electrolytics, even with heat guns and this method has worked a treat . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video , much appreciated. I've done a complete video on TH-cam all about this flux but unfortunately it looks like it's been discontinued within the last couple of weeks ( been using this for at least 20 years ) so I've got to start hunting around for a new one. Unfortunately the electronics industry has recently seen lots of items coming off the market and even some components are on massive long lead times so expect more disruption in the near future. Thanks again , sorry I can't help you 👍
Hi . Thank you for watching . The flux I use is called SMFL200D . It's a great liquid flux , comes in a 200ml spray can . I just squirt some into a small container then apply using a dipped plastic Ty wrap to the desired areas. The cleaning fluid I use is called Ultrasolve and the cleaning cloths are Gtek Dry Wipes from a company in England called Grove Sales , about £5 for a pack of 100. I use a Weller TCP S soldering iron and 0.25mm solder which I get from a company called BLT Circuits ( they do lead free and unleaded ) . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you very much. I'm sure it is interesting for many people. I'm an electronics engineer, but I'm retired now. I had everything I need at work... Now, it is more difficult: @home, I need something more "manual". I'm an hamradio also, and now we really have to switch to smd components.
Sir, I don't understand why I have to go scrambling for the volume controls between you speaking? Why can't you have the music at the same volume as your conversing? I do appreciate the videos, very helpful information, and thank you!
Hi . My last 3 or 4 videos the volume problem you mention should be sorted out . Obviously I'm not a video editor so didn't know how to correct this early on when I was posting but now got my head around it and hopefully should now be ok on last few videos and any future ones that I post . Thanks 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Sorry, yeah. It was the previous videos I was moaning about, as I was going through them all as I was new to the channel and enjoying the content. It is much better now in the last few videos I can tell the difference. Sorry to bring up a dead issue with you. Thanks so much for the videos, I do love the effort you have put in to them and your thorough explanations. Thanks again so much for sharing your knowledge with us!
Hi Dear teacher, I learned many technic in micro soldering from you but I have new problem : dr-qfn (dual row qfn) package devices such as AR8327-BL1A hand soldering I search in internet but not found any video or instructions for this work type. If you can make video for this type of work that's wery helpful Best regards
I was able to solder a TSSOP IC successfully! I used a magnifying lens and had difficulty judging the height of my soldering iron and solder above my board. Will using a binocular type magnifier help?
Hi , I wouldn't really know as I've not used this type . I have a stereo microscope which is the ideal type to see your work really clearly so I can't really say yes or no , sorry. Thank you for watching though , much appreciated 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment. I just use a phone camera with a macro lens attached . Nothing special but does a pretty good job and gets different angles of video than a microscope camera can . Thank you for asking , all the best 👍
Hi . I presume the thickness of solder wire ? The solder is 0.25mm for all the fine pitch joints and I also use a 0.5mm solder for larger joints . I get them both from company in England called BLT Circuits . Hope that helps 👍
Hi . Thank you . I just like to show people how I do things so as to maybe give them another option for when they are soldering . I've always tried to do the easier stuff neatly then this enabled me to move on to the harder parts with not to much bother . Thanks for your support 👍
Hi . Thank you for your question . All the soldering was done at 350 degrees centigrade . That is the general heat I would use for the component types in this video , but I do occasionally change the tip size on my Weller soldering iron depending on size of joints , ground plains etc . Hope that helps , thanks for watching 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated . You can use the rosin flux no problem but I always found it a little more messy and difficult to use compared to the liquid stuff . I use a certain type ( which I made a TH-cam video about ) but I'm sure you'll be ok with what you have.
really impressive, as already wrote in an other tutorial from you. Which flux you are using, if i may ask ? I was not very happy with China ware and imitations of AMTECH but amtech original (i think so) here in germany is much better than china flux.
Hi . Thank you for watching . The flux I use in all my video's is called SMFL200D . It's a great liquid flux that comes in a 200ml spray can . I just squirt a small amount into a small container and apply to the desired areas using a dipped plastic Ty wrap . It's available from Farnell ( easy to get in Europe ) RS Components , Rapid Online and any good Electronic distributers , also seen it on eBay . It's about £15 a can . I will probably do a video on the benefits of flux as lots of people ask about it . Hope that helps , good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you for your quick response. If you have a link for buying this product AND supporting you directly do not hesitate to post. If you have not an "affilitate" link i´ll buy it directly. FLUX, i think, is the most base of soldering . Skill / knowledge and "the art of doing" also, of course. But with bad flux you get a bad experience. My first try on a ps4 was with a bad imitation of amtec from china. smells really ugly during the process and the result was an desaster. I would be glad if your time let´s you manage to do some important declaration and explanations about the FLUX part. Have a nice day and stay healthy during this bad time.
Hi . I don't have a link for any products , I just try and recommend what I use . So you will have to buy direct from someone . Thank you for your support and good luck with everything 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment. In this video I would have used about 350 - 360 degrees centigrade because they were all lead free joints . For leaded joints I would generally use about 330 degrees centigrade . I may vary these temps slightly for certain components but mainly I stick to these ranges . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks for the info, i have been running too low a temp at 270 degrees centigrade not sure where i got that temp from, but now i know better 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I use both types of solders still , leaded and unleaded . Some boards I work on are done with leaded solder for example so I would try and use the same type of solder if working on these . It's harder to buy leaded solder these days , some companies will only sell it to you now if you are a registered business . There is still exemptions I believe for some industries boards to use leaded solder so it is not banned . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Hi Mr Solderfix can you please advice me best way to remove an inductor coil from laptop motherboard, i tried with a heat gun an flux wont move, i would appreciate if you can help or do a video thanks
Hi . There's a couple of things I would try first . I personally would try 2 soldering irons with very large tips on each one . I would flood both joints with leaded solder ( remove what unleaded you can first ) then keep your iron on both for a while . Then just lift component off when both joints have melted .This way has helped me out a few times . Otherwise I would use a heat gun ( I have a Quick Rework station ) again I remove what unleaded solder I can and replace with leaded solder . I then protect surrounding area with sticky backed foil tape then put gun on about 375 degrees . This normally works , or I just keep upping the temp and air flow slightly . Also I flux around the joints to aid melting . Hope this helps . Good luck 👍
hello, home made tip to apply flux ? is it somehow flexible ? plastic ? (a thin plastic collar would do the trick may be) . I have an excellent tip to stop shaking (even in the mornoing ) : drink a beer (or 2 ) ;) Because my microscope stand is not intended for soldering, I find useful to put a piece of rubber style heéat absorbing cushion, it hold the board nicely, and I turn it because of that round plate on the stand, that turns on itself (but do not accept heat )
Hi . The way I apply my flux is to first spray some of the flux I use ( SMFL200D ) into a small pot . Then I use a small plastic Ty wrap and dip it in the flux . Then just carefully apply to the area needed as you can see in the video . This is a method I love . So easy and accurate without making a great mess. Thank you 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thank you , glad I recognized the tool ;) my flux is too much paste like, but as I understand it it is also based, like many fluxes on (whitened) colophon rosin. so probably some isopropyl alcohol 99.9% will thin it. I will tell you . Best regards
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you. I asked something about a CI at Marc Siegel (Pace, some great soldering videos with professional equipment ) and discovered that his speciality is soldering, not at all knowledge of electronics. Is it still the case today, a specialisation in PCB repair , without the inside understanding of electronics ? Thank you
@Isaac OLEG Hi . In a lot of soldering firms they have solderers and test engineers . In my experience a very good solderer is not as good at electronic knowledge . I know quite a bit but I'm not as knowledgeable as a proper electronics specialist . But on the other hand they will not be up to the level of a skilled solderer . This is the case wherever I have worked 👍
Hi . To be honest I'm not really the person to ask on this matter . Your best bet is to contact various pcb companies who manufacture the bare boards and ask them the process . They might require schematic drawings for example but I'm not 100% sure. Sorry I couldn't help . Good luck anyway 👍
Hi , thank you for your question . I use a flux called SMFL200D . It's a great flux , it comes in a 200ml spray can . I just spray some into a small container like a milk bottle lid then use a dipped Ty wrap to apply it . It's about £12 - £15 a can , and is available from places like Farnell , RS Components and I have brought it off eBay. It's widely available and fairly easy to get . It's the only one I ever use. Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Hi . Yes I do use one for small parts , you really have to these days no matter how good your eyes are . I use a long reach stereo microscope , this allows me to get any size pcb under it and if your serious about doing some fine pitch or tiny resistors i.e 0201 or 0402 size you will need one . Thanks for watching , much appreciated 👍
Hi I have a question. in the video (7:50) im having a difficult time figuring out how to resolder the connector because it was given to me with the pads all torn off. Im asking for guidance on how to proceed
Hi . The flux I use is called SMFL200D . It's a great liquid flux , comes in a 200ml spray can . I just spray a little into a small container and apply using a dipped plastic Ty wrap to the desired area . It's about £14 a can , available from Farnell , RS Components ,seen it on eBay as well. Fairly easy to get hold of , it's the only flux I ever use. Hope that helps , thank you 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. The only flux I ever use is called SMFL200D . I've done a complete video on TH-cam all about this flux , how I use it , places to buy , all the information is in this video . Thanks again 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . You will need a hot air gun for this . A typical component like you mentioned is a QFN IC , I have previously posted a complete video on my TH-cam channel showing how to fit these devices . I've also featured IC's like these in some of my other videos . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Thank you for the answer 🙏 I have an hot air station, but I am curious about how to do it the right way. How much heat can an ic generally take before it fails? Keep up the good work ✌️
Hi , I normally start about 360 degrees Celsius but sometimes have had to use 425 degrees on my hot air station before I get the solder to flow . If it is lead free and ground plane this needs a lot of heat . IC's can take this heat generally . Very , very rarely can they fail this. If you need to protect parts around your reworked component use Aluminium foil , sticky backed , don't use Kapton as lots of people still do . It can't protect like the foil .Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Don't get me wrong, I like your videos. But why do you hand solder all those parts? I understand why you might want to hand solder plastic connectors and electrolytic capacitors. But for all the other parts, wouldn't it be a lot easier to put them on the pcb all at once and reflow it in a small oven?
Hi . The problem is not everyone has a small oven at home ( probably no one ). Also who has solder paste and stencils available to do this ? At least this way gives normal people like me an option . Also lots of people might just want to fit one of these parts . Thanks anyway.
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100% the absolute best soldering channel on the Tube.. None of the standard "butchery" that is offered by almost all of the others. Hats off to you.
Hi . Thank you . I just want to share what I've learnt over the years and hopefully it may help some people along the way . Thanks again for watching the video and for your comment its much appreciated 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Please do us a solid mate.. How about a few repairs on "weathered" boards with less than ideal pads. Perhaps show the difference between these RA flux's and the equivalent "no clean" lots. I have no doubt you've seen the "debauchery" many of these professional TH-camrs are performing on boards. I'm not convinced you don't cringe at what many of these "pros" are doing.
I soldered some SMD caps today and got one on the 'wonk'. It's electrically correct, but it's annoying me SO MUCH. Unfortunately, I don't currently have the skill to correct it, so I have to let it go. But Grr ... :) Your channel inspires me to conquer this.
Hi , thank you for your supporting of my channel , very kind of you . What you find is the more fussy you get with your soldering work , quality wise , you will be able to do harder and harder projects as your skills will benefit so much from being quality driven . Thanks again 👍
I want to say a real big thank you to you as with your help and videos you gave me the confidence so I was able to bridge traces and recap a board which has made a old nes console come back to life. You are a legend.
Hi . Thank you for your support . I'm really pleased I could help you out and that's why I make these videos to try and help people overcome certain problems .
You will get more confident the more you do ( that's what I found ) so keep it going . Good luck and thanks again 👍
Clear, concise instruction, thank you for making these videos.
Hi , thank you for your support , very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos . I will always post more when I get some spare time . All the best , take care 👍
You're a true Brazilian! Your videos are all about soldering and the Brazilian flag. Green and yellow, a well matching combination indeed. It's amazing how well your lead free solder works through the gaps and seeps into the seams. Hope you'll go into USB and HDMI connectors used in modern consumer electronics. Thank you for the effort! A great video as always.
Hi . Thank you .The Brazilian flag was picked because I just liked it ( I've never even been there ) . Some of the modern lead free solders are great compared to years ago when they started to come into the workplace. I get all my solders from a place in England called BLT Circuits . There stuff is always good quality. Beware of cheap solders , not to be trusted in my opinion . I will definitely do a video on modern connectors sometime ( there's still loads for me to cover yet ) and as USB and HDMI are pretty common I will try and include them . Thank you for the suggestion and your support 👍
I love to adhere to the "BTF" aka "better than factory" soldering slogan and I believe in it.. am an apprentice of yours...thanks so much for these soldering tricks, good commentary, outstanding guidance and explanation....lol
Hi . Thank you for watching the videos , much appreciated . I hope you get on ok with all your projects , and best of luck for the future 👍
Great video! I have to recap an old drum sampler from Yamaha. RS7000. Lot’s of cap’s. I see you prefer a conical tip. I have some from JBC, I also have some flat ones, but I’m going to use the conical’s.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I mainly use the 2 tips I show in most of my videos , a small conical one and a large flat sided one . I have others , larger conicals , chisel tip etc which I do use at times if the job requires it but normally it's these 2 . I hope you get on ok . Thanks again , take care 👍
Great to see information like this so well filmed, nicely zoomed in, with decent lighting so you can actually see what's going on. Thanks :-) A comment on the capactior removal; I've begun practicing soldering as I've started working on vintage electronics - I'd be scared to twist those caps as often they've leaked and damaged the pads below / around them
Hi . Thank you for your comment , much appreciated . Regarding the capacitor removal , you might be doing the right thing if you have leaked Capacitors and potentially weak / damaged pads . I normally use 2 soldering irons and take them off this way but sometimes this does not work so I revert to the twist method . It's a pretty safe method , especially if you hold down the small amount of leg you can see and twist both ways very gently . But I understand your caution . Good luck with whatever you do and thanks again for your support 👍
Enjoy your videos. You are very skilled! A real pleasure to see someone with patience and such quality.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and supporting my channel , very much appreciated 👍
18:32 This is a form of art, Sir. Very pleasant to observe.
Hi . Thank you for your nice comment .
I just want to show people how I personally solder components so maybe it will help a few people when they need a bit of guidance. If this is the case it's worth doing these guides.
Thanks again 👍
I am on your opinion site.
I love when he says “what I’ll do now” :)
Hi . Thank you for your comments , much appreciated . Hope you found the video useful . Thanks again 👍
Very well put together video. Very informative
I enjoyed all three videos.
Thank you for the crystal clear videos.
Looking forward to all your upcoming videos.
Hi . Thank you for your comment much appreciated. Glad you enjoyed the video's , I will post more videos as soon as I have some spare time. Thanks again 👍
Glad I found this channel. Great viewing thank you.
Hi . Thank you for watching , much appreciated . Hope you find the videos useful , that's all I want to do try and help people if I can. I will post more videos when I can , so thanks again for your time 👍
What I’ve noticed in your soldering videos which are excellent I must say is the way you remove the soldering iron from the connection. You lift it directly off instead of moving it to the side. By doing it that way I notice how you get that smooth concentric dome of solder. What temperature is a good temperature to start at? Now back to the video. Thank You 👍
Hi . The temperature I generally do most of my soldering at these days is about 350 - 365 degrees centigrade as mostly I do lead free soldering . For leaded soldering you can lower this a little . I just use larger tips if I have large ground plains etc . In the end you get to know what you need for each situation you face. Everyone can get better the more they solder and you can never stop learning. Good luck with all your soldering projects and thank you again for your support . I will post more videos when i can 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thank you for your help and quick reply Artie 👍
What a great series, clear and helpful. The good camera work really helps. Y
Hi . Thank you for your comment. I'm glad your enjoying these smd guides , I will be doing a few more in this series yet.
I will also be doing other soldering videos like I was doing before so hopefully amongst them you may find some useful . Thanks again for your support , very much appreciated 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I do have a question about flux, I can't (easily) get hold of your recommended flux, my local electronics shop only sells a 'paste' which comes in a syringe. Do you have any thoughts on that or should I look further afield? The application is not too tricky, I'm assembling a Morserino32 kit. Y
Hi . I have seen people use a type of paste flux that comes in a syringe and get on very well with it . Sometimes the stuff that comes in a syringe is slightly thicker which In my opinion will still be good to use, so I would say get some of what your shop is selling . Hope you get on ok . Thank you for watching my channel 👍
Fantastic video, you are number one fitlr solder
Hi . Thank you for your comment. If I can help anyone that's all I want to do . Thanks for watching 👍
Really helpful tips. Thanks for sharing.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
just putting the tip on the edge of the pin without moving anything is yet result of training, I bet ! 0.
25 wire ... excellent ;)
Hi . Some soldering techniques have taken me a long time to learn correctly . That's why I always say to people , don't give up , you will get better with practice.
It feels good when you finally master certain techniques but to do this you will need better equipment as you progress your skills 👍
Awesome clear video again...👏
Hi . Thank you for your comment , much appreciated. Glad you enjoyed the video , I will post a few more in the near future , thanks again👍
Hi, when you twist the smd cap to remove it, is there a chance it could rip off the pads? great video by the way👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . Even though this twisting method looks quite risky I've never , ever damaged a pad doing it . For extra safety if you feel you need it you can place a pair of tweezers or pliers in top of the joints and then slowly twist , a tiny amount each way . You will soon feel the legs on the component body getting weaker and then it's easy to twist off . Then simply remove both parts from their pads . I've struggled at times over the years with very large electrolytics, even with heat guns and this method has worked a treat . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi where is the link with your flux?
Thanks for your great videos🤗
Hi , thank you for watching the video , much appreciated. I've done a complete video on TH-cam all about this flux but unfortunately it looks like it's been discontinued within the last couple of weeks ( been using this for at least 20 years ) so I've got to start hunting around for a new one. Unfortunately the electronics industry has recently seen lots of items coming off the market and even some components are on massive long lead times so expect more disruption in the near future. Thanks again , sorry I can't help you 👍
I love these videos! Thanks sir.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I will do more videos like this one in the near future . Thanks again , take care 👍
Thanks for the video. Can you, please, tell us the reference of the products you are using (flux for example) and the tools as well.
Hi . Thank you for watching . The flux I use is called SMFL200D . It's a great liquid flux , comes in a 200ml spray can . I just squirt some into a small container then apply using a dipped plastic Ty wrap to the desired areas. The cleaning fluid I use is called Ultrasolve and the cleaning cloths are Gtek Dry Wipes from a company in England called Grove Sales , about £5 for a pack of 100. I use a Weller TCP S soldering iron and 0.25mm solder which I get from a company called BLT Circuits ( they do lead free and unleaded ) . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you very much.
I'm sure it is interesting for many people.
I'm an electronics engineer, but I'm retired now. I had everything I need at work... Now, it is more difficult: @home, I need something more "manual". I'm an hamradio also, and now we really have to switch to smd components.
Great. Can you make video on soldering QFN package.
Hi . If you have a look at my other videos I've already made one on soldering QFN packages . Hope you find it . Good luck , thanks for watching 👍
Sir, I don't understand why I have to go scrambling for the volume controls between you speaking? Why can't you have the music at the same volume as your conversing? I do appreciate the videos, very helpful information, and thank you!
Hi . My last 3 or 4 videos the volume problem you mention should be sorted out . Obviously I'm not a video editor so didn't know how to correct this early on when I was posting but now got my head around it and hopefully should now be ok on last few videos and any future ones that I post . Thanks 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Sorry, yeah. It was the previous videos I was moaning about, as I was going through them all as I was new to the channel and enjoying the content. It is much better now in the last few videos I can tell the difference. Sorry to bring up a dead issue with you. Thanks so much for the videos, I do love the effort you have put in to them and your thorough explanations. Thanks again so much for sharing your knowledge with us!
Hi . No problem , thank you for watching them , it's very much appreciated . I will be posting more when I get some time , so thanks again 👍
Please, make a video how to desolder components correctly.
Hi . Thank you for your suggestion. Sounds a possible idea for a future video , thanks very much for that.
Much appreciated 👍
plz do the video!
Thank you so much for sharing.
Hi . Thank you for watching , I'm glad you enjoyed the video 👍
Hi
Dear teacher, I learned many technic in micro soldering from you but I have new problem : dr-qfn (dual row qfn) package devices such as AR8327-BL1A hand soldering
I search in internet but not found any video or instructions for this work type.
If you can make video for this type of work that's wery helpful
Best regards
Hi another brilliant video ,keep it up, love ur vids and ur skill . Thx
Hi . Thank you . I enjoy doing the videos , so as long as people keep enjoying them I will keep posting . Thanks again , much appreciated 👍
I was able to solder a TSSOP IC successfully! I used a magnifying lens and had difficulty judging the height of my soldering iron and solder above my board. Will using a binocular type magnifier help?
Hi , I wouldn't really know as I've not used this type . I have a stereo microscope which is the ideal type to see your work really clearly so I can't really say yes or no , sorry. Thank you for watching though , much appreciated 👍
Beautiful! Sir what camera are you using?
Hi , thank you for your comment. I just use a phone camera with a macro lens attached . Nothing special but does a pretty good job and gets different angles of video than a microscope camera can . Thank you for asking , all the best 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 wow what an ingenious way! Thank you sir. Learning a lot from your videos. 🙏😊
Hi , no problem , good luck with your soldering projects 👍
Very nice video sir I
Hi . Thank you , much appreciated . Glad you enjoyed the video , I will post more in the near future . Thanks again 👍
Great..
Can u tell gauge of wire...
Hi . I presume the thickness of solder wire ? The solder is 0.25mm for all the fine pitch joints and I also use a 0.5mm solder for larger joints . I get them both from company in England called BLT Circuits . Hope that helps 👍
super tutorial....
Hi , thank you for your comment and supporting my channel , very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video , thanks again , take care 👍
Another great video, thanks, your precision makes some of the more well known guys look like Neanderthals (but they still get the job done)
Hi . Thank you . I just like to show people how I do things so as to maybe give them another option for when they are soldering . I've always tried to do the easier stuff neatly then this enabled me to move on to the harder parts with not to much bother . Thanks for your support 👍
How many degrees do you do the soldering process?
Hi . Thank you for your question . All the soldering was done at 350 degrees centigrade . That is the general heat I would use for the component types in this video , but I do occasionally change the tip size on my Weller soldering iron depending on size of joints , ground plains etc .
Hope that helps , thanks for watching 👍
i have a tub of rosin flux paste can i use that instead of the liquid flux?
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated . You can use the rosin flux no problem but I always found it a little more messy and difficult to use compared to the liquid stuff . I use a certain type ( which I made a TH-cam video about ) but I'm sure you'll be ok with what you have.
really impressive, as already wrote in an other tutorial from you.
Which flux you are using, if i may ask ? I was not very happy with China ware and imitations of AMTECH but amtech original (i think so) here in germany is much better than china flux.
Hi . Thank you for watching . The flux I use in all my video's is called SMFL200D . It's a great liquid flux that comes in a 200ml spray can . I just squirt a small amount into a small container and apply to the desired areas using a dipped plastic Ty wrap . It's available from Farnell ( easy to get in Europe ) RS Components , Rapid Online and any good Electronic distributers , also seen it on eBay . It's about £15 a can . I will probably do a video on the benefits of flux as lots of people ask about it . Hope that helps , good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you for your quick response. If you have a link for buying this product AND supporting you directly do not hesitate to post. If you have not an "affilitate" link i´ll buy it directly.
FLUX, i think, is the most base of soldering . Skill / knowledge and "the art of doing" also, of course.
But with bad flux you get a bad experience. My first try on a ps4 was with a bad imitation of amtec from china. smells really ugly during the process and the result was an desaster.
I would be glad if your time let´s you manage to do some important declaration and explanations about the FLUX part.
Have a nice day and stay healthy during this bad time.
Hi . I don't have a link for any products , I just try and recommend what I use . So you will have to buy direct from someone . Thank you for your support and good luck with everything 👍
Very good!!!
Hi . Thank you , glad you enjoyed the video 👍
good
Hi , thank you , glad you enjoyed the video . Much appreciated 👍
I’ve watched all your videos now, very interesting, well done...
You've probably mentioned this before, but what temperature do you run the soldering iron at for these type of joints?
Hi , thank you for your comment. In this video I would have used about 350 - 360 degrees centigrade because they were all lead free joints . For leaded joints I would generally use about 330 degrees centigrade . I may vary these temps slightly for certain components but mainly I stick to these ranges . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks for the info, i have been running too low a temp at 270 degrees centigrade not sure where i got that temp from, but now i know better 👍
Hi , no problem , I hope you get on ok . Thanks again for watching the video , take care 👍
I love your videos, but I'm curious why do you use unleaded solder is it illegal to use leaded solder in the UK
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I use both types of solders still , leaded and unleaded . Some boards I work on are done with leaded solder for example so I would try and use the same type of solder if working on these . It's harder to buy leaded solder these days , some companies will only sell it to you now if you are a registered business . There is still exemptions I believe for some industries boards to use leaded solder so it is not banned . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Hi Mr Solderfix can you please advice me best way to remove an inductor coil from laptop motherboard, i tried with a heat gun an flux wont move, i would appreciate if you can help or do a video thanks
Hi . There's a couple of things I would try first . I personally would try 2 soldering irons with very large tips on each one . I would flood both joints with leaded solder ( remove what unleaded you can first ) then keep your iron on both for a while . Then just lift component off when both joints have melted .This way has helped me out a few times . Otherwise I would use a heat gun ( I have a Quick Rework station ) again I remove what unleaded solder I can and replace with leaded solder . I then protect surrounding area with sticky backed foil tape then put gun on about 375 degrees . This normally works , or I just keep upping the temp and air flow slightly . Also I flux around the joints to aid melting . Hope this helps . Good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996
Would adding low melt solder around the joints help?
low melt solder and they will slide off
Hi . Leaded solder or low melt solder should both work . Good luck 👍
Nice
Hi . Thank you , glad you enjoyed the video .👍
hello, home made tip to apply flux ? is it somehow flexible ? plastic ? (a thin plastic collar would do the trick may be) . I have an excellent tip to stop shaking (even in the mornoing ) : drink a beer (or 2 ) ;)
Because my microscope stand is not intended for soldering, I find useful to put a piece of rubber style heéat absorbing cushion, it hold the board nicely, and I turn it because of that round plate on the stand, that turns on itself (but do not accept heat )
Hi . The way I apply my flux is to first spray some of the flux I use ( SMFL200D ) into a small pot . Then I use a small plastic Ty wrap and dip it in the flux . Then just carefully apply to the area needed as you can see in the video . This is a method I love . So easy and accurate without making a great mess.
Thank you 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thank you , glad I recognized the tool ;) my flux is too much paste like, but as I understand it it is also based, like many fluxes on (whitened) colophon rosin. so probably some isopropyl alcohol 99.9% will thin it. I will tell you . Best regards
Hi . Good luck with whatever you do . Thank you for watching my video's 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you. I asked something about a CI at Marc Siegel (Pace, some great soldering videos with professional equipment ) and discovered that his speciality is soldering, not at all knowledge of electronics. Is it still the case today, a specialisation in PCB repair , without the inside understanding of electronics ? Thank you
@Isaac OLEG Hi . In a lot of soldering firms they have solderers and test engineers . In my experience a very good solderer is not as good at electronic knowledge . I know quite a bit but I'm not as knowledgeable as a proper electronics specialist . But on the other hand they will not be up to the level of a skilled solderer . This is the case wherever I have worked 👍
What do I need to take my ideas from hand drawings to have my own boards made?
Hi . To be honest I'm not really the person to ask on this matter . Your best bet is to contact various pcb companies who manufacture the bare boards and ask them the process . They might require schematic drawings for example but I'm not 100% sure. Sorry I couldn't help . Good luck anyway 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thank you
Hi . Good luck , I'm sure you will get your boards made ok . Just make a few enquiries and I'm sure the right people will be able to help you 👍
thank you.
Hi . Thank you for watching , much appreciated. Glad you found the video useful 👍
How can I contact with you?
what type of flux do you use?
and where can i get one?
Hi , thank you for your question . I use a flux called SMFL200D . It's a great flux , it comes in a 200ml spray can . I just spray some into a small container like a milk bottle lid then use a dipped Ty wrap to apply it . It's about £12 - £15 a can , and is available from places like Farnell , RS Components and I have brought it off eBay. It's widely available and fairly easy to get . It's the only one I ever use. Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Do you use a microscope for small soldering?
Hi . Yes I do use one for small parts , you really have to these days no matter how good your eyes are . I use a long reach stereo microscope , this allows me to get any size pcb under it and if your serious about doing some fine pitch or tiny resistors i.e 0201 or 0402 size you will need one . Thanks for watching , much appreciated 👍
Hi I have a question. in the video (7:50) im having a difficult time figuring out how to resolder the connector because it was given to me with the pads all torn off. Im asking for guidance on how to proceed
How to contact you for cooperation?
Sir what flux do you use and whats that applicator your using?
Hi . The flux I use is called SMFL200D . It's a great liquid flux , comes in a 200ml spray can . I just spray a little into a small container and apply using a dipped plastic Ty wrap to the desired area . It's about £14 a can , available from Farnell , RS Components ,seen it on eBay as well. Fairly easy to get hold of , it's the only flux I ever use. Hope that helps , thank you 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thank you!
What type of flux do you use?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. The only flux I ever use is called SMFL200D . I've done a complete video on TH-cam all about this flux , how I use it , places to buy , all the information is in this video . Thanks again 👍
What if an smd overheats? I have soldered in my tv circuit but after 2 minutes it falls down.. and It extremely hot. Sorry for my English
3:46 Electrolytic Capacitor SMD install
22:08 Removal
How do you solder when the ic have a ground plane underneath?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . You will need a hot air gun for this . A typical component like you mentioned is a QFN IC , I have previously posted a complete video on my TH-cam channel showing how to fit these devices . I've also featured IC's like these in some of my other videos . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Thank you for the answer 🙏 I have an hot air station, but I am curious about how to do it the right way. How much heat can an ic generally take before it fails? Keep up the good work ✌️
Hi , I normally start about 360 degrees Celsius but sometimes have had to use 425 degrees on my hot air station before I get the solder to flow . If it is lead free and ground plane this needs a lot of heat . IC's can take this heat generally . Very , very rarely can they fail this. If you need to protect parts around your reworked component use Aluminium foil , sticky backed , don't use Kapton as lots of people still do . It can't protect like the foil .Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Thx
Hi . Glad you enjoyed the video , thank you for watching , much appreciated 👍
Don't get me wrong, I like your videos. But why do you hand solder all those parts? I understand why you might want to hand solder plastic connectors and electrolytic capacitors. But for all the other parts, wouldn't it be a lot easier to put them on the pcb all at once and reflow it in a small oven?
Hi . The problem is not everyone has a small oven at home ( probably no one ). Also who has solder paste and stencils available to do this ? At least this way gives normal people like me an option . Also lots of people might just want to fit one of these parts . Thanks anyway.
👍
May i ask you a question Sir? Are the soldering flux and Paste similar?
They're just a different consistency of the same thing - flux.
@@em0_tion thank you
Thats an SRAM.. i wonder what is the function of this thing youre building..