I appreciate your soft and pleasant voice , it makes it easier to watch the detailed approach, talking as you do it with advice of what not to do, is good for those who want to learn well done mate. So many pit falls out there, so tried and tested ways are best to start with, as you say drag soldering is good if your skilled at it,I'm old and do many solder through components over the years. People ask me how i get the solder to look so good, I tell them it takes many years of trial and error you develop your own technique over tine. Being able to watch a pro do it with ease is a pleasure to watch and learn, so thanks for all you do to pass on your techniques, your a gold mine full of knowledge.
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos , hopefully they can help a few people out with their soldering issues. If I can help anyone then I'm happy. I will always post new videos up when I get some spare time ( not often enough ) as I just like to share what I know. Thank you again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video , hopefully it can help a few people out . Thanks again , take care 👍
Excellent video, with some very professional soldiering skills. I'm 54 years old and have been soldiering components since I was 12 years old. And I still can't produce that level of soldiering skill. Very well done... I have always struggled with flat ribbon connectors. I going to try your way. I greatly agree with you about the flux... Every teacher or instructor has drilled that into my head... Flux, flux, flux... Thumbs up and a sub has been earned here. Thank you.
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel , very much appreciated. I guess I've just done so much soldering over many years that now it seems easy really . I've spent many years doing microscopic work that's got smaller and smaller , a particular favourite these days for me is using one strand out of a piece of solder braid to do wire modifications . But that seems pretty easy as well now . Practice , practice and always listen to other people and be willing to change your methods if you learn a better one . Thanks again, and keep soldering 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. The flux I have used for many years is called SMFL200D but unfortunately it's recently been discontinued so I'm looking for a decent alternative at this present time . I still have a small supply of this flux left but when I do find a decent replacement I will post about it on TH-cam. Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , it really is appreciated . If I can help a few people out with their desoldering / soldering issues then I'm happy. I'm glad you enjoy the videos . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 we appreciate your efforts 🌹 but we are waiting for more fun videos such as drag soldering of QFP100 and bigger 😁👌🏻 its gonna be amazing.
Thank you for your work done. I always carefully look at your every material. On the chip, each leg was separately soldered, I liked it. I tried it and I did it. It turns out high quality, reliable and beautiful. I will wait for the next issue.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and it's helped you , great news . Good luck with all of your soldering projects in the future and I will always post more videos when I get some spare time . Thanks again , take care 👍
5534! Excellent choice. :). (I think people often get more emotional about some of their favorite audio parts than people do about digital parts!) Thanks for the great vid, as usual!
I am a very big fan of your videos. Great audio and video presentation as always, educational and very good narration as well. It seems you achieve great results with a sharp conical tip, something I will have another go at myself. I started out mostly soldering with larger bevel/hoof tips, as the TH-camrs I followed in the beginning seemed to prefer those. I myself have had difficulty melting the solder with these smaller conical sharp tips, but I just got a new soldering station with JBC genuine tips, so maybe that will help me. I try to keep the tip clean as much as I can, avoiding too high temperatures and excessive oxidation, dirty tips, adding fresh solder to achieve good heat transfer, flux, etc. The new station also goes to sleep immediately when I return the tip to the holder, and heats up again extremely fast. Any other tips for being successful with the conical tips? My hands probably will never be as accurate with the tweezers though.. Your skill is truly inspiring.
Hi , thank you for watching the video's and commenting, much appreciated , I'm glad you enjoy them . I use a few different irons these days , for all my TH-cam videos I use a Weller TCP S iron and PTP7 conical tip , very old school iron but I love it . Sometimes like everyone else I can struggle with the tips getting oxidised and not accepting solder but I gently scrape with a scalpel blade or light emery cloth and this seems to do the trick . Keep buffing up tinning , buffing , tinning etc until the solder starts to take normally , you always get there if patient. I also use modern day Metcal irons which are really nice ( very expensive ) and these don't seem to suffer to badly with this non tinning problem ( hardly ever ), but if I have the same problem I just buff with Emery cloth ( very lightly as these tips are quite sensitive to coating being changed ). As with all soldering issues you get to learn what you need to do , hopefully I can help a small part in some of these issues as well as the other good soldering channels on TH-cam. Thanks again , good luck with everything 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. As for the future I never know what I'll be doing but for now I will keep posting videos as long as people still enjoy them . Thanks again , take care 👍
My first attempt at soldering 1206 components was a disaster. But after studying several of your videos I can happily jump in and solder 0603, sot 23 etc. I certainly won't say I can come close to your quality but I no longer find myself shouting and screaming at the PCB when it all goes horribly wrong! Take a bow Sir. You are truly the master! 😊
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad the videos have been useful for you thats great. The more you solder you definitely improve as you learn the tools , solder sizes etc that you need. Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , you will be ok . I do all similar packages from 1206 down to 1005 using the same method . The more you practice you will get better and can go smaller and smaller with relative ease . The 3 main things are try and get some 0.25mm solder , use flux and use fine tweezers . Good luck and thanks for your support 👍
Hi , thank you for always supporting my channel , very much appreciated. I will always try to put out new videos as long as people seem to enjoy them . Thanks again, take care 👍👍
Hi , I'm glad you find the videos useful , that's great. If I can help a few people out with their soldering issues, then that's great . Thanks for commenting, take care 👍
Hi dear; once again, thank you very much for your work. These lessons are very helpful for us. I wish you success. Please tell me again what new flux you use to replace the old one and please post a photo.
Hi , thank you for your question. At this point in time I'm still looking for a decent alternative flux . I still have a small supply of the SMFL200D that has become discontinued so I can survive a while longer yet . When I do find a good replacement I will definitely post about it on TH-cam. Sorry I couldn't help you anymore at this moment . Thanks again 👍
Yet another impressive and helpful video, thank you very much! Though I am not sure, if I will be able to actual apply your tips, I am more encouraged to try those stuff I would usually think to need a professional hot air gun/reflow oven stuff.
Hi , thank you for your comment , I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully my videos can help a few people out with their soldering issues, that's all I'm aiming for. Thanks again and good luck with all of your soldering projects in the future 👍
Grat stuff as ever, still I.lressed that there is always something new. There are a a couple of reslly good electronic channels regularly uploading new content at the moment which is great and your channel is definitely part.of that. I thought it was a cable tie but wasn't 100% so thanks for confirming 😁
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel and for commenting , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos . If they help anyone then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel, it's very kind of you. Hopefully the videos are helping a few people along the way with their soldering . I will post more when I get any spare time , thanks again and take care 👍
Another great video. Do you have a picture of your solder iron tip before filing it down? Ive never done that before and cant you purchase a finer tip one. Thanks
Hi , thank you for your comment. The Weller iron I use ( TCP S ) allows the tips for this iron to be filed down . The one I purchase mainly , PTP7 is the finest one for it . It is fairly fine but sometimes for what I do I need it finer so just lightly shape the end to suit me which these tips allow . Done people say you can't do this but they are 100% wrong when it comes to these particular tips . There isn't a finer tip for this iron otherwise I would purchase that instead . I also use a micro Metcal iron where the tips are way finer so don't need to be touched. Hope that helps .
Thanks for the video and the clear explanation. One thing I think I'm still missing is in the first stages after you apply flux - do you tin the tip of the iron slightly and that's the tin that gets applied to the pad? Does it go from the iron to the pad because of the flux?
Hi , thank you for your comment . I always add a tiny amount of solder to the iron tip before I do any soldering joints . I also pre flux the joint first then place the iron tip on the joint , then a split second later go in with the solder . Works every time. Hope that's clear . Thanks again for your time 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment . I posted a complete video on my channel only a few months ago all about hot air . May be of use for you. Thanks again , take care 👍
Exellent tutorial mate!👍🏻 Can I ask what kind of solder flux you use? (It seems most flux I find is a paste as opposed to the liquid one you use.) Thanks!
Hi , thank you for your comment. The microscope I use is a stereo long reach scope from GT Vision ( England ) , their own brand one but all the filming is done with a phone with a macro lens attached to the camera . Nothing special but it works pretty well . Hope that helps , thanks again .
Hi , I use a stereo long reach microscope from a company in England ( GT Vision ) , their own brand model . I simply use a macro lens attached to my phone camera to do my filming , simple as that . Thanks for your questions 👍
Another great vid, thank you! By the way, what would you recommend to solder on a board first: some multiple pin ICs (like xilinx there), or components with fewer pins, like caps or resistors?
Hi , thank you for your comment. When I'm building a board from scratch I would generally populate the smaller components first i.e 0402 resistors , caps etc and then the next size components up and so on. This can vary though . If I had a large fine pitch IC for example that was tightly surrounded by small capacitors I would do the IC first in this instance as it may be hard to get to it after the caps are fitted. You sort of just get a feel for what's the order when you get to look over the board your working on . Basically make sure you can get to all components if the parts near it are fitted. Hopefully that helps 👍
I have a question. When your doing the really small stuff, are you looking at the board or through a microscope of some sort? On things like resister packs and the like, I find myself looking at the scope, but it takes some time to get used to it.
Hi , thank you for your question. I do use a microscope for the really fine small stuff ( you basically have to , even if your eyes are perfect ) , and i do get your point about the microscope . This doesn't affect me as I get on great with scopes ( I use a stereo long reach scope , allowing me to get any size board under it , purchased from GT Vision ( England ) , their own branded one . I know of people who just couldn't get on with scopes and used something called a Mantis ( spelt correctly? ) , but I really hated them . Scopes offer way better vision and the more you look through them you do get used to them . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Nice video as always. May I ask a suggestioni? What technique do you recommend to solder a particolar resistor 0402, named CR0402D50,5 manufacture by Smiths Interconnect (formerly EMC Tech)? This part Is based on synthetic diamond substrate, capable of handling 1.5W. It has wrapped metalization and It Is a thin film resistor. Please see data sheet. Do you recommand hot air along with solder paste or something else? Any suggestioni Is really appreciated. Regards from Italy.
Hi , with practice and getting to know solder sizes , correct tools , correct iron tips etc we can all improve , that's what I found over the time I've been soldering . Lots of soldering seems daunting hopefully my videos can help people a little . Thank you for supporting my channel , take care 👍
Hi , the flux I use is a non corrosive flux called SMFL200D which has very , very low resistance if left on the board , causing no issues whatsoever. It's the cheap fluxes from certain well known websites that may cause a resistance issue . Basically try and source no clean fluxes as these are safer in the long run .Hope that clears that up . Thanks for bringing this point up 👍
Hi . I've done a couple of QFN IC's in my other TH-cam postings . Probably about 5mm square these ones . In my day job I've done many smaller than this . Normally I tin all pads with solder , equally on every pad including a suitable amount on the centre pad . Then simply heat gun the component on . Normally the device takes perfectly and floats perfectly into the finished central position . Also as I showed in one of my other videos I done one of the QFN's with solder paste. So 2 different methods , I just select the best method for each situation. Thanks for your comment 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you for the detailed answer. I'll start looking for your QFN videos in a moment. The smallest QFN chip I want to solder is 2x2mm with 8 pads. Best regards from Karl.
Hi , if you mean removing the ic's without damaging them I've shown some of the removal methods you can do in some of my other TH-cam videos . Maybe they can help you . Thank you for your comment, take care 👍
Hello. I have such a flux and I did not like it (the flux RF800 , 100 ml / for SMD installation, country of origin: Poland). Positive sides: transparent, flowing, on the lid there is a small brush (in a capacity of 100 milliliters). Negative side ; He copes with his functions very poorly. You can try, but I didn't like it.
@@mrsolderfix3996 Hello . I have a big request to you, please inform on your channel a liquid flux brand if you find high -quality and proven. As for the flux Topnik RF800, it quickly burns. Thanks again for your work, I am sure it helps a lot to gain experience to improve skills.
@@mrsolderfix3996 i mean when i use hot air on a board to replace components. Almost always a component im not touching, moves from the hot air blowing on the area.
Hi , sorry for the misunderstanding. What you need is aluminium foil. I've featured it in a few videos . Place it over nearby components and plastic bodied parts and it will protect everything underneath it . Simply then peel it off . 3M do a version , Advance tapes do one also there will others on the internet . Get an adhesive backed one . Don't make the mistake everyone does and use Kapton tape for heat protection as the heat can get through and dislodge parts . Hope this helps you . Good luck 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. No I have no secret formula , I don't eat or drink anything special , I guess I've been doing this for so long now that I've just become steady at it . Certainly the longer you do soldering and the more you practice certain types of soldering you naturally will become more confident and steadier . That's what I've found anyway . Thanks again for your time , and hopefully everyone will practice more and get steadier 👍
Hi , thank you for your question. As I live in England I generally use Farnell or RS Components , and also occasionally Rapid Online . Most of the Electrical stockists let you set up a personal account. If in America you can use Mouser and DIGIKEY . I have ordered from them before and received goods 2 days later . With the American firms I did order via the firm I was working for as they had an account but I'm sure they would let private individuals set accounts up . They all sell every FFC connector you would ever want . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . For the small resistors generally about 330 degrees Celsius when using leaded solder and 360 to 375 degrees Celsius for lead free solder . I may vary these slightly for certain components and certain situations i.e large ground plane soldering etc . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Hi , thank you for your support , it really is appreciated . If I can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then I'm happy . Thanks again 👍
I appreciate your soft and pleasant voice , it makes it easier to watch the detailed approach, talking as you do it with advice of what not to do, is good for those who want to learn well done mate. So many pit falls out there, so tried and tested ways are best to start with, as you say drag soldering is good if your skilled at it,I'm old and do many solder through components over the years.
People ask me how i get the solder to look so good, I tell them it takes many years of trial and error you develop your own technique over tine. Being able to watch a pro do it with ease is a pleasure to watch and learn, so thanks for all you do to pass on your techniques, your a gold mine full of knowledge.
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos , hopefully they can help a few people out with their soldering issues. If I can help anyone then I'm happy. I will always post new videos up when I get some spare time ( not often enough ) as I just like to share what I know. Thank you again , take care 👍
You are the king in soldering smd's beautiful work
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video , hopefully it can help a few people out . Thanks again , take care 👍
The solder joints are perfect and have tried got years and your methods have change everything for the better
Excellent video, with some very professional soldiering skills. I'm 54 years old and have been soldiering components since I was 12 years old. And I still can't produce that level of soldiering skill. Very well done... I have always struggled with flat ribbon connectors. I going to try your way. I greatly agree with you about the flux... Every teacher or instructor has drilled that into my head... Flux, flux, flux... Thumbs up and a sub has been earned here. Thank you.
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel , very much appreciated. I guess I've just done so much soldering over many years that now it seems easy really . I've spent many years doing microscopic work that's got smaller and smaller , a particular favourite these days for me is using one strand out of a piece of solder braid to do wire modifications . But that seems pretty easy as well now . Practice , practice and always listen to other people and be willing to change your methods if you learn a better one . Thanks again, and keep soldering 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 what's your favorite flux?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. The flux I have used for many years is called SMFL200D but unfortunately it's recently been discontinued so I'm looking for a decent alternative at this present time . I still have a small supply of this flux left but when I do find a decent replacement I will post about it on TH-cam. Thanks again , take care 👍
Very nice video, you never get bored watching it 😊
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , it really is appreciated . If I can help a few people out with their desoldering / soldering issues then I'm happy. I'm glad you enjoy the videos . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 we appreciate your efforts 🌹 but we are waiting for more fun videos such as drag soldering of QFP100 and bigger 😁👌🏻 its gonna be amazing.
Thank you for your work done. I always carefully look at your every material. On the chip, each leg was separately soldered, I liked it. I tried it and I did it. It turns out high quality, reliable and beautiful. I will wait for the next issue.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and it's helped you , great news . Good luck with all of your soldering projects in the future and I will always post more videos when I get some spare time . Thanks again , take care 👍
5534! Excellent choice. :). (I think people often get more emotional about some of their favorite audio parts than people do about digital parts!)
Thanks for the great vid, as usual!
Hi , thank you for your comment, very much appreciated 👍
I am a very big fan of your videos. Great audio and video presentation as always, educational and very good narration as well. It seems you achieve great results with a sharp conical tip, something I will have another go at myself. I started out mostly soldering with larger bevel/hoof tips, as the TH-camrs I followed in the beginning seemed to prefer those. I myself have had difficulty melting the solder with these smaller conical sharp tips, but I just got a new soldering station with JBC genuine tips, so maybe that will help me. I try to keep the tip clean as much as I can, avoiding too high temperatures and excessive oxidation, dirty tips, adding fresh solder to achieve good heat transfer, flux, etc. The new station also goes to sleep immediately when I return the tip to the holder, and heats up again extremely fast. Any other tips for being successful with the conical tips? My hands probably will never be as accurate with the tweezers though.. Your skill is truly inspiring.
Hi , thank you for watching the video's and commenting, much appreciated , I'm glad you enjoy them .
I use a few different irons these days , for all my TH-cam videos I use a Weller TCP S iron and PTP7 conical tip , very old school iron but I love it . Sometimes like everyone else I can struggle with the tips getting oxidised and not accepting solder but I gently scrape with a scalpel blade or light emery cloth and this seems to do the trick . Keep buffing up tinning , buffing , tinning etc until the solder starts to take normally , you always get there if patient. I also use modern day Metcal irons which are really nice ( very expensive ) and these don't seem to suffer to badly with this non tinning problem ( hardly ever ), but if I have the same problem I just buff with Emery cloth ( very lightly as these tips are quite sensitive to coating being changed ).
As with all soldering issues you get to learn what you need to do , hopefully I can help a small part in some of these issues as well as the other good soldering channels on TH-cam.
Thanks again , good luck with everything 👍
Hey, what station did you get? I want to get a nice one
Very nice work, clean and clear, I'm a big fan, hopefully one day you can start an electronic course.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. As for the future I never know what I'll be doing but for now I will keep posting videos as long as people still enjoy them . Thanks again , take care 👍
@Mr SolderFix thanks a lot, we are really enjoy your work, keep going please
Hi , no problem , thanks again 👍
My first attempt at soldering 1206 components was a disaster. But after studying several of your videos I can happily jump in and solder 0603, sot 23 etc.
I certainly won't say I can come close to your quality but I no longer find myself shouting and screaming at the PCB when it all goes horribly wrong!
Take a bow Sir. You are truly the master! 😊
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad the videos have been useful for you thats great. The more you solder you definitely improve as you learn the tools , solder sizes etc that you need. Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I'm designing my next PCB with some 0402 components. I fancy a challenge.
Hi , you will be ok . I do all similar packages from 1206 down to 1005 using the same method . The more you practice you will get better and can go smaller and smaller with relative ease . The 3 main things are try and get some 0.25mm solder , use flux and use fine tweezers . Good luck and thanks for your support 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 many thanks for your encouragement.
@@mrsolderfix3996 you mention at one point that you file your iron tips to get the profile you want. Would you care to show us how you do this?
Good quality video, everything is clear and easy to follow. Thank you.
Hi , thank you for always supporting my channel , very much appreciated. I will always try to put out new videos as long as people seem to enjoy them . Thanks again, take care 👍👍
Thanks for the demonstrations. Very helpful.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
I have learned all these welding details from you very seriously, and I am sincerely grateful to you!
Hi , I'm glad you find the videos useful , that's great. If I can help a few people out with their soldering issues, then that's great . Thanks for commenting, take care 👍
Hi dear; once again, thank you very much for your work. These lessons are very helpful for us. I wish you success. Please tell me again what new flux you use to replace the old one and please post a photo.
Hi , thank you for your question. At this point in time I'm still looking for a decent alternative flux . I still have a small supply of the SMFL200D that has become discontinued so I can survive a while longer yet . When I do find a good replacement I will definitely post about it on TH-cam. Sorry I couldn't help you anymore at this moment . Thanks again 👍
Excellent job!
Hi , thank you for your comment, very much appreciated 👍
Simply very good video.
Hi , thank you for your comment, very much appreciated 👍
Yet another impressive and helpful video, thank you very much! Though I am not sure, if I will be able to actual apply your tips, I am more encouraged to try those stuff I would usually think to need a professional hot air gun/reflow oven stuff.
Hi , thank you for your comment , I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully my videos can help a few people out with their soldering issues, that's all I'm aiming for. Thanks again and good luck with all of your soldering projects in the future 👍
Grat stuff as ever, still I.lressed that there is always something new. There are a a couple of reslly good electronic channels regularly uploading new content at the moment which is great and your channel is definitely part.of that.
I thought it was a cable tie but wasn't 100% so thanks for confirming 😁
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel and for commenting , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos . If they help anyone then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
YAY!!! Another one!!! Damn I love watching your videos :)
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel, it's very kind of you. Hopefully the videos are helping a few people along the way with their soldering . I will post more when I get any spare time , thanks again and take care 👍
Another great video. Do you have a picture of your solder iron tip before filing it down? Ive never done that before and cant you purchase a finer tip one. Thanks
Hi , thank you for your comment. The Weller iron I use ( TCP S ) allows the tips for this iron to be filed down . The one I purchase mainly , PTP7 is the finest one for it . It is fairly fine but sometimes for what I do I need it finer so just lightly shape the end to suit me which these tips allow . Done people say you can't do this but they are 100% wrong when it comes to these particular tips . There isn't a finer tip for this iron otherwise I would purchase that instead . I also use a micro Metcal iron where the tips are way finer so don't need to be touched. Hope that helps .
Thanks for the video and the clear explanation. One thing I think I'm still missing is in the first stages after you apply flux - do you tin the tip of the iron slightly and that's the tin that gets applied to the pad? Does it go from the iron to the pad because of the flux?
Hi , thank you for your comment . I always add a tiny amount of solder to the iron tip before I do any soldering joints . I also pre flux the joint first then place the iron tip on the joint , then a split second later go in with the solder . Works every time. Hope that's clear . Thanks again for your time 👍
can you also do something on hot air?
Hi , thank you for your comment . I posted a complete video on my channel only a few months ago all about hot air . May be of use for you. Thanks again , take care 👍
You got rock steady hands
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
Exellent tutorial mate!👍🏻
Can I ask what kind of solder flux you use? (It seems most flux I find is a paste as opposed to the liquid one you use.)
Thanks!
Video quality is great, thank you sir for the video,may i ask what is the model of the microscope you are using?
Hi , thank you for your comment. The microscope I use is a stereo long reach scope from GT Vision ( England ) , their own brand one but all the filming is done with a phone with a macro lens attached to the camera . Nothing special but it works pretty well . Hope that helps , thanks again .
If you don't mind, you can record a separate video about the equipment you use.
Hi , I've actually posted a video already on my TH-cam channel showing the basic tools that I like to use . Hopefully you can find it . Good luck 🤷
@@mrsolderfix3996 Please model of the microscope and video recording camera you are using 👍
Hi , I use a stereo long reach microscope from a company in England ( GT Vision ) , their own brand model . I simply use a macro lens attached to my phone camera to do my filming , simple as that . Thanks for your questions 👍
Another great vid, thank you!
By the way, what would you recommend to solder on a board first: some multiple pin ICs (like xilinx there), or components with fewer pins, like caps or resistors?
Hi , thank you for your comment. When I'm building a board from scratch I would generally populate the smaller components first i.e 0402 resistors , caps etc and then the next size components up and so on. This can vary though . If I had a large fine pitch IC for example that was tightly surrounded by small capacitors I would do the IC first in this instance as it may be hard to get to it after the caps are fitted. You sort of just get a feel for what's the order when you get to look over the board your working on . Basically make sure you can get to all components if the parts near it are fitted. Hopefully that helps 👍
I have a question. When your doing the really small stuff, are you looking at the board or through a microscope of some sort? On things like resister packs and the like, I find myself looking at the scope, but it takes some time to get used to it.
Hi , thank you for your question. I do use a microscope for the really fine small stuff ( you basically have to , even if your eyes are perfect ) , and i do get your point about the microscope . This doesn't affect me as I get on great with scopes ( I use a stereo long reach scope , allowing me to get any size board under it , purchased from GT Vision ( England ) , their own branded one . I know of people who just couldn't get on with scopes and used something called a Mantis ( spelt correctly? ) , but I really hated them . Scopes offer way better vision and the more you look through them you do get used to them . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
I've just started using flux. I bought ThermoPasty TK83, supposedly formulated for re-work. Would be interested in any views on this.
Hi , thank you for your comment. I've never tried this flux but if anyone reading this has please leave your thoughts 👍
Nice thanks
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 tu é brasileiro?
Great video! I´m just wondering how do you tack the ICs to the board in order to prevent it from moving before soldering?
I use a pea sized peice of blutac
Nice video as always. May I ask a suggestioni? What technique do you recommend to solder a particolar resistor 0402, named CR0402D50,5 manufacture by Smiths Interconnect (formerly EMC Tech)? This part Is based on synthetic diamond substrate, capable of handling 1.5W. It has wrapped metalization and It Is a thin film resistor. Please see data sheet. Do you recommand hot air along with solder paste or something else? Any suggestioni Is really appreciated. Regards from Italy.
Is easy when i look,but when a do myself is hard
Hi , with practice and getting to know solder sizes , correct tools , correct iron tips etc we can all improve , that's what I found over the time I've been soldering . Lots of soldering seems daunting hopefully my videos can help people a little . Thank you for supporting my channel , take care 👍
What iron temp are you using on the 2 lead components?
What do people recommend as a magnifier to see what you are doing?
I found a 10x with small 15x magnifier hole on Amazon.
What bit size is good for soldering the connector at 25:30?
Doesn't the flux conduct electricity? How do you prevent the flux left below the components conducting electricity, creating short circuits?
Hi , the flux I use is a non corrosive flux called SMFL200D which has very , very low resistance if left on the board , causing no issues whatsoever. It's the cheap fluxes from certain well known websites that may cause a resistance issue . Basically try and source no clean fluxes as these are safer in the long run .Hope that clears that up . Thanks for bringing this point up 👍
Have you tried soldering a QFN package 4x4x0.9mm with 24 pads on the bottom?
Hi . I've done a couple of QFN IC's in my other TH-cam postings . Probably about 5mm square these ones . In my day job I've done many smaller than this . Normally I tin all pads with solder , equally on every pad including a suitable amount on the centre pad . Then simply heat gun the component on . Normally the device takes perfectly and floats perfectly into the finished central position . Also as I showed in one of my other videos I done one of the QFN's with solder paste. So 2 different methods , I just select the best method for each situation. Thanks for your comment 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you for the detailed answer. I'll start looking for your QFN videos in a moment. The smallest QFN chip I want to solder is 2x2mm with 8 pads. Best regards from Karl.
Hi , no problem . I do all QFN's with the same method no matter the size . I hope you get on ok . Good luck , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks, I get it.
Hi , no problem , thank you for all your comments, take care 👍
Qual estanho você usa ?
How to fullout the smd ic with out damage the cirquit? Thank you
Hi , if you mean removing the ic's without damaging them I've shown some of the removal methods you can do in some of my other TH-cam videos . Maybe they can help you . Thank you for your comment, take care 👍
With or without lead?
👍👌
Hi , thank you for watching the video , very much appreciated 👍
Regarding a new flux brand, could you try out the Topnik RF800? 1l costs only ~20€.
Hello. I have such a flux and I did not like it (the flux RF800 , 100 ml / for SMD installation,
country of origin: Poland). Positive sides: transparent, flowing, on the lid there is a small brush (in a capacity of 100 milliliters). Negative side ; He copes with his functions very poorly. You can try, but I didn't like it.
Hi , thank you for your information, saves me trying it 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I do not dissuade you, this is my personal opinion about the flux. You can try, suddenly you like it, it’s inexpensive.
@@mrsolderfix3996 Hello . I have a big request to you, please inform on your channel a liquid flux brand if you find high -quality and proven. As for the flux Topnik RF800, it quickly burns. Thanks again for your work, I am sure it helps a lot to gain experience to improve skills.
@@mrsolderfix3996Hello, was you able to find a good replacement you could recommend?
i love Amtech NC-559-V3-TF but V2-TF comes in 2nd.
👏👏👏👏👏👏🙏🙏🙏🙏🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷Brasition
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is very much appreciated 👍
What about the componemts already on the board from the manufacturer flying away?
I'm confused , no components in any of these videos moved while I soldered all of these parts on . Maybe you can explain what you mean ?
@@mrsolderfix3996 i mean when i use hot air on a board to replace components. Almost always a component im not touching, moves from the hot air blowing on the area.
Hi , sorry for the misunderstanding. What you need is aluminium foil. I've featured it in a few videos . Place it over nearby components and plastic bodied parts and it will protect everything underneath it . Simply then peel it off . 3M do a version , Advance tapes do one also there will others on the internet . Get an adhesive backed one . Don't make the mistake everyone does and use Kapton tape for heat protection as the heat can get through and dislodge parts . Hope this helps you . Good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 good to know thank you for the reply and tip.
Hi , no problem 👍
Amazeballs!!!
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated 👍
How do you manage to keep your hands so still? Do you eat or drink anything in particular before soldering?
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. No I have no secret formula , I don't eat or drink anything special , I guess I've been doing this for so long now that I've just become steady at it . Certainly the longer you do soldering and the more you practice certain types of soldering you naturally will become more confident and steadier . That's what I've found anyway . Thanks again for your time , and hopefully everyone will practice more and get steadier 👍
do u have a good source for buyin ffc connectors ?
Hi , thank you for your question. As I live in England I generally use Farnell or RS Components , and also occasionally Rapid Online . Most of the Electrical stockists let you set up a personal account. If in America you can use Mouser and DIGIKEY . I have ordered from them before and received goods 2 days later . With the American firms I did order via the firm I was working for as they had an account but I'm sure they would let private individuals set accounts up . They all sell every FFC connector you would ever want . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
What temp you using for the tiny resistors / capacitors?
NM - I heard you say 330 (I assume C not F.)
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . For the small resistors generally about 330 degrees Celsius when using leaded solder and 360 to 375 degrees Celsius for lead free solder . I may vary these slightly for certain components and certain situations i.e large ground plane soldering etc . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Your videos are excellent.
Hi , thank you for your support , it really is appreciated . If I can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then I'm happy . Thanks again 👍