Solar battery shore charging is covered at the very end of the video, but going by the comments, I need to clarify it here: No, do not charge your solar battery with the RV converter charger!! Hooking up a solar battery charger is covered at the end of this video. If your RV has a solar battery AND a house/coach battery, then the RV converter charger is great and there is no need to disable it. If you are using one battery for both, and you do not disable the RV converter battery charger, you are going to have a bad time! Think about it like this: if you have a battery, powering an inverter, charging itself with the converter charger, you are going to have problems! I figured that was implied, but going by some of the comments, people are not understanding that part of the system. Many people use separate solar batteries than their coach batteries, or want to run their RV from a goal zero or other solar generator. Or a gasoline generator. Which means wiring the ats as shown in this video is ideal. If your solar battery is also your coach battery, you need to wire up your own battery charger. Does that make sense? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Does off-grid solar confuse you? Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com Join our DIY solar community! #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com Check out my best-selling, beginner-friendly 12V off-grid solar book (affiliate link): amzn.to/2Aj4dX4 If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Solar. Low prices and great warranty, and they can take your entire house offgrid with their new Powerwalls: ts.la/william57509 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My solar equipment recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first): 12V/48V Lithium Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html Plug-N-Play Systems: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html Complete 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar and Coupon Codes: -Current Connected: SOK, Victron and High Quality Components. Best prices and warranty around: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp -Signature Solar: Cheap Server Rack Batteries and Large Solar Panels: www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Ecoflow Delta Official Site: My favorite plug-n-play solar generator: us.ecoflow.com/?aff=7 -AmpereTime: Cheapest 12V batteries around: amperetime.com/products/ampere-time-12v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4-battery?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Rich Solar: Mega site and cheaper prices than renogy! Check them out: richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Shop Solar Kits: Huge site with every solar kit you can imagine! Check it out: shopsolarkits.com/?ref=will-p -Battery Hookup: Cheap cell deals bit.ly/2mIxSqt 10% off code: diysolar -Watts 24/7: Best deals on all-in-one solar power systems, with customer support and distribution here in the USA: watts247.com/?wpam_id=3 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Contact Information: I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: williamprowsediysolar@gmail.com Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers: Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :) DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
This is the part where I have yet to tread in any real detail, so for me, this video should make sense after I re-watch it a few times so I can follow the wiring procedure(s) in my own head - and then hopefully I will fully understand how the entire electrical system is designed, and works together as a whole, including Solar and Battleborn's. I'm still heading out on the road @ 24 volts in a class A, possibly utilizing an additional 24 volt alternator to juice up the house batteries while going down the road. And CONGRATULATIONS on your new home Will, I am so excited for you! Keep the videos coming, your channel is doing GREAT my friend.
Your Introduction Video About ATS and It's Relevant Interconnections Is Very Good and Extremely Well Organized .. I'm A Retired EE, Licensed Master Electrician With Extensive Specializations including Solar, Power, Controls and Electronics .. My Comment Does Not Reflect an Endorsement, But, Does Include My Professional Suggestions .. That Said, There's A Clear Difference Between Grounding and Bonding Requirements (Ref The Most Current Edition of The NEC or NFPA 70), Also, Consider Barriers Between High and Low Voltage Within an Enclosure (you may even relocate ground and neutral bars inside left and right sides rather than side and bottom) .. Because This ATS has Exposed Open Air Contacts That Potentially Could Create an Arc, .. Butt Splices Should Be Taped Up With Electrical Insulation Tape .. However, I Prefer Wire Nuts (Strategically Placed and Taped of Course) Rather Than Butt Splices, .. and on that note, With Insulated In Line Butt Splices .. You Should Use Flat Crimps So As Not To Breach the Integrity of The Insulation Purpose On The The Butt Splice .. Indent Crimps Are Specific to Non-Insulated Butt Splices and Stranded Wire Connectors OK? .. Termination Wiring Methods Is A Trade Craft Art including Wire Tags With a (Custom Legend Wire Tag Identifier List Affixed to the Inside The Enclosure).. My Signature Preference includes Service Loops (EXTRA WIRE LENGTH vs CUT TO LENGTH) Specifically for Ease of Maintenance Process or Future Replacement and Modifications, Cut Back Stripping of The Outer Sheaths on AC Multi Conductor Cables I Always Remove Sheaths Close to The Inside Box Entry Rather Than Extending into The Wiring Area (this practice removes stiff sheaths as an obstacle too, especially when using Zip Ties for neatness and bundling), As For The Cable Entry Clamps .. I Prefer Neoprene Compression Grommets rather Than Bare Metal for Circular Sheathed Cables Primarily for More Uniform Compression .. Lastly, a Tip for Power Conductor Entry That Terminates At The Top Lugs .. Punch A Properly Sized Entry Hole Top Left or Top Right Above The Lugs For Side or Top Entry .. rather Than Entry on The Bottom .. I'm Sure You Visualize the Benefits of Get That Idea (keep in Mind, Power Conductor Bending Radius No Less Than 8 x The Radius of The Conductor).. In Closing, I Appreciate Your Open Mind for Positive and Safety Suggestions From Qualified Subscribers .. My Comment Items Should Not To Be Construed As Negative .. My Comment Items Are Just Contributions To The Community For Further Individual Consideration, Research, Verification and Compliance for Specific Applications and Their Relative Locations
I have watched a ton of your vids but I haven’t seen anything on the system I want to build. All the systems you cover are either/or systems(solar or generator/shore power). I would like to build a system with the following components. 1000 watt solar, wind generator, large battery bank, small inverter generator(gas or lpg), 30amp shore power. I will be building a trailer from scratch with all the usual RV stuff including A/C. In some seasonal RV parks you must pay separately for the electricity you consume or, when boondocking no shore power at all. Is it possible to use the maximum output of the solar panels while simultaneously using the shore power or generator to supply the the remainder of the needed power? Example; if my solar output is 900 watts and it takes 1200 watts to run the A/C, is there a way to only draw the extra 300 watts from shore power or generator? If it is possible, would it be inherently inefficient or cost prohibitive? Would this affect the lifespan of the batteries?
Will…I can’t thank you enough for clarifying the converter charger connection at the end of the video. I have been wrestling with the best way to “hot wire” the charger to the transfer switch for 2 weeks and you clarified it in mere moments. Thanks again…for yet another outstanding video!
As a licensed electrician the video was helpful and straightforward. The only thing I'd be careful about is the use of those butt connectors. Many of them are really used only for automotive and low voltage use. In this application you would need them to be rated for 125v or higher. If it was be using this box I would use yellow or red wirenuts. As a commercial electrician this is a Square D Emergency Relay found in many schools and hospitals in use with lighting circuits with Normal and Emergency Circuits with the relay. The lighting circuit is used to pull in the coil and when that power is dropped out it closes over to the Normally Closed position to feed with the Emergency Lighting Circuit. 👍
I hear ya, but I’m not sure wire nuts are designed to handle the vibration that an RV is subjected to either. A properly done crimp cold welds the wires and provides superior strength and vibration immunity. Insulation could be addressed with an extra (marine grade) shrink tube applied over the top of the crimp.
6 หลายเดือนก่อน +5
both of you have made great points. if used in an RV / mobile setup, a better suited alternative to butt splices and wire nuts might be WAGO connectors (which now come with this ATS), which are rated for up to 32A / 450V.
Cool. I bought and installed one of these for my home sump pump system early this spring. Already saved my a$$ this spring. Neighbors were scrambling with buckets and looking for generators after a storm took out the power. I was 1000 miles away, and resting happy as this automatically switched over to my inverted and marine battery array!
You really saved me when it comes to understanding solar. Currently renovating a Winnebago and I’m not sure how far I would be without your help. Truly appreciated, warm thanks.
I'd been hoping that you'd do an instructional on an ATS! Terrific, and thank you. Also, congrats on the first instructional video from the new place. When I saw your update about getting the house, I was really happy for you.
Thank you Ray! I'm glad you like the video :D and I am glad you noticed that this is the first video at the new house! I am still getting used to my new filming setup. More fun videos coming soon
Perfect video for my ‘question of the day’ as I progress on designing the solar upgrade to my travel trailer. As always, your videos are clear, concise and provide heat examples thanks for the great work, Will.
I have been waiting for this kind of video. This was the missing piece for me to begin thinking about Solar for my RV. Thanks. Oh, congrats on the new place! Oh, I was an electrician on helos in the Navy, Your work looked fine!
Thank you! I’m just about to install 4-600w of solar to my vintage Airstream and was wondering how to connect everything to my converter, so I appreciate your explanation 👏
The first auto transfer switch, I thought of for solar, was the one you had on before, the funny thing is, I had one on the shelf. I hooked it up on 2-24v 750 AH highlow batteries. The dam thing works flawlessly. Even though my inverter is a inverter charger and totally controllable and programmable. I watch the transfer switch the most. I built a high end array, to show for potential sales. I run all shed lights off it, 110 tools even 220 equipment (ie plasma cutter) 200 amp Mig and Tig welder. I can’t use them long due too only having 1500 AH worth of batteries. I should have 4 batteries to run comfortably that would be minimum, at that point I will switch to 48v. Like I have said in the past you make electronics interesting. I tell all my Off Grid costumers to watch your videos and help support you. So they get a understanding of renewable.
Your videos are by far the best for RV solar instruction. We are planning on doing an install of the classic 400 watt system detailed in your book in our year old Coachmen Freedom Express. Thank you for all the info, this would have been scary to do without the info you provide.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. This is what was missing in all the challenges that I have overcome in my project. I went to an electrical supply store and they wanted to sell me a $350.00 circuit breaker box with a transfer switch. I converted a 26 ft. commercial box truck into a tiny house. I have two 100 Ah Battle Born Batteries and 720 watts of solar panels, 60 amp Outback charge controller. and a Semlex 3000-watt converter., I am totally off-grid. I use a generator at times and want to use the generator as my "shore" power. It looks like this transfer switch would do the trick. You are the best, love your vids, btw, I bought your book.
Hey Will.. thank you for all you do! This video is 3 years old, and still valid, but I'm hoping you could do a new version, using a 50 amp switch. I have installed 4x 200 watt panels on my 5th-wheel rig, along with 2 SOK 206aH batteries, and a 3000 watt inverter. I have purchased a 50amp automatic transfer switch, but not confident of the install without a bit of guidance. (and you are one of the few that I trust). Thx !
What good timing! I was just looking at this model of ATS today for my RV. (Trying to talk my wife into letting me install one of your lithium battery builds.) After watching this I'm going to add the lithium battery charger to my parts list. Thanks!!
Hey Will, your video made this install less intimidating now I have all outlets working with my inverter, only one hiccup in your video at the 12:41 mark you mention 2 little screws to connect the charger, those screws hold relay contact legs and should not be touched, instead connect charger and shore power together to same bigger screw. I had to take drill rivets to be able to reattach the contacts and re-secure the ATS to box. my 2cts. love your videos and reviews !!
No cringing over here. Pretty clean. Good move not zip tying the hots. I'm glad you covered the R.V. battery charger connection to the shore power circuit. Un-necessary on a solar set-up and more load on the inverter. Many people miss that.
I have that same ATS between my inverter and breaker panel in my shipping container. This way when I am charging my batteries the loads are being powered from the generator instead of the inverter. That lets all 60 amps from the charger go to the battery and not be spit with whatever the inverter needs. I ordered a 200 amp Lithium Iron Phosphate battery bank after watching your videos. My Outback Flexmax80 can be configured to charge LIfePO.
I would like to see you do one or more videos specifically on setting up solar for a grid-down situation in a sticks and bricks suburban home, although I believe you've already provided considerable information on RV setups that can be adapted. Thanks, and keep up the great work!
Will, what can I say. You are the BEST👍. I am ready to install my TS thanks to you. Been following you from your Rv street days. Remember your video on how to find an industrial park to spend the night😁
You inspired me to install my PV grid tie Solar system, the right way. I used "Solar Design Tool" to help me with the power company and permit paperwork. Work in progress.
Hey will, bit of an old video so i’m sure somebody has pointed it out, or if you will see this. If not, here is some useful information for you. The lack of a ground rod is fine. The main purpose of a ground rod is to dissipate electrical surges from the grid, such as lightning hitting a pole 10 miles away or other sources of static electricity. If you are hooked up to shore power there should be one of these on the main service of the property, and when you are disconnected from the grid you don’t have to worry about these surges. The rest of the ground system serves a much more valuable purpose than this- Backup return path for current. If a wire rubs out on the chassis, if there is no way for the electricity to flow back to the source and cause over current, tripping the breaker, it will energize the chassis and cause electrocution. It is absolutely vital the chassis is bonded to the ground of the AC system somewhere. Now the ground also needs to be connected to the source somewhere. In a house, this is in your main panel. The neutral and ground are connected at this one point only. If a hot wire shorts against anything grounded, it will flow through the ground wire, through the connection to the neutral and trip the breaker. When you are hooked up to shore power, this bond should be in the main panel of the property. When you are not hooked up to shore power, it is a different story. Most inverters do not have the neutral and ground bonded, because they expect you to do that in your generator. If we do the connection in the panel in an RV, that means there will be a second neutral to ground bond when you hook up to shore power. This can cause current to flow on the ground which can cause electrocution and stuff melting. So, what I like to do is make a jumper from ground to neutral on a wireable plug going to the inverter. You could also use one of those 2 position breaker boxes and just have one breaker, and do your bond there. This is why the transfer switch also switches the neutral. They expect you to have a neutral to ground bond on the inverter/generator side. I suggest you research some youtube videos on grounding and bonding- ElectricianU has some good videos on that. Oh yeah- A lot of generators also have no neutral to ground bond. This is known as a floating neutral. Always check with a multimeter set to continuity on generators and inverters and understand your grounding system. The way you have this system set up, if you connect a regular inverter to it there will be no neutral to ground bond while on inverter power. This basically means the ground is doing nothing and it vastly increases risk of electrocution.
I was wondering if you sell any of your older equipment...I’d be interested in seeing a list of goodies if you do. Your TH-cam channel is by far the BEST on RV solar and RV electronics...we all owe you!
Will, got to hand it to ya. Looks like you have enough material for book part two. And congrats on living the dream with your own home. Thanks for your Inspiration. Living in Vegas, the fast lane.
Only thing different I'd so would be shrink tubing to help from the wires pulling out of the butt connectors, or use wire nuts but I love how straightforward this is 👍
Will, been following your channel. I got a Thor Sanctuary 19P and a Anker 767 Powerhouse and can't get it to power the RV. Both the engineers at Thor and Anker blame each other and each has suggested to use a neutral ground plug (which I tried to). I think the problem is with my Southwire 41301 Automatic Transfer Switch(ATS) with Reverse Polarity, when I hook up the Anker 767 to it (no grounding plug) it shuts off) and I get a reverse polarity fault on the ATS and display, faulty power. Thor said it's Anker outpower is not wired right and I tested it with Anker engineered with an outlet tested and it passed. I believe it is the ATS that is blocking it since it is not sensing a ground. I can power everything else through the Anker but it won't transfer any power to the RV. I tried 30a, 15a, 12a. I talked to an engineer at Mastervolt (that is the type of battery system) and he suggest lowering the amps to 2 or 3 amps to a slow charge. Any help from any would be appreciated. Anker states it should charge an RV but I can't get it to work.
great videos.was watching how to install ts-30,but you should do one showing how to install ts-30 with the automatic transfer switch that's in the power distribution box,like your rv has in this video.your videos are better explained than most.hope you can do one soon.keep up the good work.
Very useful Will because I am adding an inverter and a new converter/charger for Lifepo4 battery to my trailer. Its a little confusing though for people that don't know how these things work. In your example you use cord with a male plug pigtail to representing the incoming shore power. Of course it would never look like that. The shore power cable would lead to a female socket on the side of the trailer. I hope your viewers weren't looking for a male plug end somwhere!
Nice vid! As an electrician I would recommend wire end ferrule for the ground wires. With that upon the threads the threads can't move afterwards anymore.
I think you did a good job and feel there is nothing unsafe . This will help the newbe as well as the fuxit guy like me. I can now hook up that transfer switch to my rig with confidence I have been struggling a little on this one since I am trying to go boondocking application Thanks for your time and efforts. Love you vids. I have learned alot.
Good job explaining everything, very well done. The only thing I would caution against is using those style crimp butt connectors, they have a tendency to over heat. I would have used the crimp cap style connectors so you have wire to wire contact and you're not depending on the barrel of the butt connector to carry any of the load, the crimp caps barrel is only used for clamping force and does not carry much, if any of the load. It would be interesting to see you do a test between the two different styles of connectors under extreme load. Back when I owned a stereo shop, I would see customers come in with melted 8-4 Gauge butt connectors on their main positive power wires, we would add a proper connector, usually we would install something better than a crimp cap but sometimes that's all that would fit,and they wouldn't have the problem again. This will probably never be an issue but I prefer the better safe than sorry method.
Hello Will,could you post a video with a diagram for an RV set up? My question is from the transfer box to the inverter. Should there be a fuse or a shut off block and also, what does the solar system look like from the inverter on? Thanks.
A few years back my converter box died. Replaced it with a better one and installed the transfer switch at the same time. I was running mainly on solar, and ran generator when needed. It was ok.
We also have a second ats for the inverter with a sub panel, The converter power has a photo eye to disable it during daylight periods and only operates while connected to shore power or during generator operation.
I just received my Go-Power T30 transfer switch (July 2022). They now come with a green plastic guard over the switch. The guard is great but it doesn't allow for the last segment of your video. There is no way to get the converter/charger connection to the small screw that you suggested. Besides, I think that screw is only intended to hold that connector to the terminal. I'd not recommend using that screw anyway because it's too small to make a decent contact. I just stacked my 2 connectors on that one, larger, screw and utilized the same slot in the green plastic guard. BTW...... I really enjoy your teaching style and recommend your videos to others.
Hi Will, big fan. Where does the converter/charger fit with this set up? I thought that my 30A shore line comes into the converter/ charger first. Thanks, enjoy Vegas
Excellent video ,will make my installation a lot easier.They now come with a plastic cover on the switch part so no chance of shorting anything out now
At minute ~12:39 you mention terminating the battery charger. I assume this is so that the inverter doesn't pull power from the batteries and try to charge them up at the same time... That said; do you have a video on how to terminate the battery charger on this port? Or can you guide me in the right direction? -Thank you,
Would this wiring, to separate the converter form the inverter , work on a 50 amp transfer switch? I'm looking for a way to stop having to trip the breaker on the converter when I use my Inverter.
Hi Will, Now that you've got space in your new house, maybe a white board so you can do some block diagrams would help? I know that sometimes it's easier for me to draw a simple block diagram to explain in simple terms what I'm trying to get across before I start with the "show and tell". Great vid! I never thought about an ATS in an RV as everything I've seen has had an AC-off-DC switch, but it makes perfect sense. Great vid!
Thank you for the video, it helped clarify some of the wiring issues i have been thinking of. My issue though is I have an motorhome with an onboard generator, plus the shore plug. My understanding is the ATS is works for two (2) incoming power sources. With already have the two on board, it is possible to add the solar to the ATS or do they have an ATS which could handle 3 incoming power sources, to switch between the 3, the inverter (solar), the generator, and the shore power?
@@rawbdiggity I have figured this issue out and it works great. You will need a second ATS, if you already have the factory or the original one in the RV. You will keep the shore power and the generator power going into the first ATS with the output power feeding into the new, or second ATS. I have fed this power into the "timed" or generator input side of the second or ATS. I ran my inverter into the dedicated input of the send or new ATS. With this brand being shown you can run a jumper on the H1 to the H2 wire terminals. You will be able to see the H1 and H2 printed on the circuit board. This will get rid of the 30 send delay on the second ATS since your first ATS already has the 30 second delay to allow for your generator to warm up or get to speed prior to taking the draw. You do not need to use the jumper if you do not need or want. I went without for a couple months but found a jumper laying around so I placed it in. It is easy, you can solder a wire between the H1 and H2 terminal, but if you do not, it will just take about 40 to 60 seconds until your shore power or generator turns powers up your RV. It is a very simple and easy process, you will just need two (2) ATC switches. Just keep your factory ATS wired, take the outgoing power of the 1st ATS, run it into your second along with your inverter power into the second, then the output going into your breaker panel. It works flawlessly. I am very happy with how it works.
ryche2882 that’s funny the second main comment I asked was this exact thing about adding an ATS behind the first for solar(inverter) the next question I had was how or where would you put a 3 pole contactor to disengage the converter when the panel is running off the solar(inverter) ? Btw thanks for the confirmation on running second ATS I really appreciate it and the added jumper info for that setup
@@rawbdiggity I have found several videos for doing this. In the videos I watched, they placed the 3 pole right next to the breaker panel. I have not done this yet, and in all honesty I do not think I am going to. It is recreational use only. If you are living out of the RV full time maybe I would. But I just flip the "converter" breaker when I uses the inverter. It really is not a big deal to me. LMK what you do and how you decide to do it. Maybe I will get to it next year.
Hello will! at 4:00 you explain how if you don’t have a generator or have removed it, you can take that spot and plug it into your inverter (of your solar system) instead, how exactly can i do this?? i have built the off grid king blueprint that you have on your site successfully but trying to figure out how to wire in the rest of my camper van without re-wiring everything, would all i need to do is replace this wire from within the automatic transfer switch? Thank you.
Will, may I ask a question the answer to which I've not been able to find? In the typical RV solar setup, I understand how to route in generator power, shore power, and solar power. But how - where - do I route in vehicle alternator power?
Question: I want to use this Transfer switch to charge my batteries when plugged into shore power. I watched your video and understand on how to make that possible. How do I go about using my solar charge controller as well. Can I hook both to the same battery bank? Or do delete the go power option and just use solar or is there a way to use both?
I know that this is the recommend installation method with the normally closed operation of the switch going from shore power to panel but in my experience I find that the coils used to hold the contacts when switched draw a constant 30 to 60 watts so why not run the inverter on the normally closed side so it's not using extra battery power and run the shore power on the switched side where there is an abundance of power?
Awesome video! Helped a bunch. One quick question, though. When you hook up the battery charger for lifepo4 batteries, do you have to physically disconnect the original converter, or does the transfer switch bypass it?
Nice video Will. A few questions/clarifications that im pretty sure I understood correctly but wanted reassurance: 1. The plug on right is going to shore or generator correct? 2. The wire on left is going to rest of the AC circuits throughout the building (eg. various 110v outlets)? Or perhaps for a larger building the breaker panel? 3. Wire on bottom goes to plug into your invertor connected to solar (typical solar setup w charge controller etc)? Im pretty sure Im right on 1-3 (please correct if Im not), but question 4: 4. Assuming I am correct on 1-3, how does this "automatically switch" between the 2 power sources? My building is remote and not on grid, so my goal was to run off of solar until I came to the building and brought my generator to hookup at which point I would like for it to run on generator when I plug it in. Then when I unplug it go back to having the solar panel/ batteries be rhe main source of power (I assume they will charge when im.connected to generator too!) My thoughts are this ATS would accomplish this, but wanted to make sure - the wiring makes sense in my mind, but not sure how it chooses which source to pull power from? Is one the "primary" circuit (in my case when I plug in the gen) defaulting to this source when I plug in? Similar to say when the grid is back online? Whereas when the gen is unplugged (or no grid), it would default to solar (or in most peoples case a generator)?
Man I love your videos. I'm looking to do a complete off grid setup on my camper. I want to use the battery bank to run the RV through the outlets, I want to still have the ability to run shore power when available and I will be adding solar later but charging with generator for now. Do you have a video that has a build like this?
Great video, thank you. What if you have a 50 amp coach and need to use a 50 amp transfer switch and your inverter output does not have 2 hot legs like the 50 amp does?
Well done video. I'm a little confused about the the charger portion of my converter. It seems that when the transfer switch changes over to battery power, the battery will be in a charging loop, attempting to charge itself. Is that incorrect?
If you mean when switched over to the inverter then yeah that’s a huge problem if you also have the charger/converter hooked up to that. Really bad. You should only have the charger/converter sucking power from the shore side of the transfer switch.
The wiring diagram in the manual for that unit shows the inverter wires going to the lower wires not the middle ones. And the shore power cables wired to the middle wires
Great info! Thanks! Just a question. I’m looking at being able to expand. I’m new at this solar thing and was interested in installing an ATS first. My current set up is shore power cord and then a 30 amp EMS surge protector then my distribution panel. My question is can I install an ATS somewhere in line? Thanks!
Hey Will. Question: What is the difference between using an automatic transfer switch to connect solar to my travel trailer VS. running a plug from my inverter and connecting a wall-30a adapter and just plugging in my rv?
Hi Will. I do have a question in regards to connecting the new solar system with 2000 watt inverter to the main panel. My solar system will not be able to run my AC unit so I can't see hooking up my inverter to the main panel via a 50 amp automatic transfer switch unless I turn my two AC breakers off before turning on my inverter. Have you had other ways to hook up to the main panel without going through the process of disconnecting the AC system breakers or is just easy to remember to turn the AC breakers off? As well to turn off the converter.
I Have the 400 Watt Renogy system with the 3000w inverter from renogey. I also got the transfer switch box. Im seeing everyone is connecting to the RV or off the RV braker. I have my own braker box and shore line power. Any help would be grateful. Thank you for your time and help. And great tutorials.
The location where my shore power comes in is several feet from my converter box on the opposite side. Do I have how to install the automatic transfer switch as close to the converter box as possible? Or can I install it closer to where the shore power comes in?
I need to add one of these but also figure out how to have the AC only run when on shore power. I guess I could add a small circuit breaker box before the transfer switch and have the AC connect there and remove it from the RV distribution circuit breaker. I might also connect the Electric Water heater there as well.
Solar battery shore charging is covered at the very end of the video, but going by the comments, I need to clarify it here: No, do not charge your solar battery with the RV converter charger!! Hooking up a solar battery charger is covered at the end of this video.
If your RV has a solar battery AND a house/coach battery, then the RV converter charger is great and there is no need to disable it.
If you are using one battery for both, and you do not disable the RV converter battery charger, you are going to have a bad time! Think about it like this: if you have a battery, powering an inverter, charging itself with the converter charger, you are going to have problems! I figured that was implied, but going by some of the comments, people are not understanding that part of the system.
Many people use separate solar batteries than their coach batteries, or want to run their RV from a goal zero or other solar generator. Or a gasoline generator. Which means wiring the ats as shown in this video is ideal. If your solar battery is also your coach battery, you need to wire up your own battery charger.
Does that make sense?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Does off-grid solar confuse you? Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com
Join our DIY solar community! #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com
Check out my best-selling, beginner-friendly 12V off-grid solar book (affiliate link):
amzn.to/2Aj4dX4
If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Solar. Low prices and great warranty, and they can take your entire house offgrid with their new Powerwalls: ts.la/william57509
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My solar equipment recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first):
12V/48V Lithium Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html
Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html
Plug-N-Play Systems: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html
Complete 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html
DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html
Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar and Coupon Codes:
-Current Connected: SOK, Victron and High Quality Components. Best prices and warranty around: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp
-Signature Solar: Cheap Server Rack Batteries and Large Solar Panels:
www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Ecoflow Delta Official Site: My favorite plug-n-play solar generator:
us.ecoflow.com/?aff=7
-AmpereTime: Cheapest 12V batteries around:
amperetime.com/products/ampere-time-12v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4-battery?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Rich Solar: Mega site and cheaper prices than renogy! Check them out:
richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Shop Solar Kits: Huge site with every solar kit you can imagine! Check it out:
shopsolarkits.com/?ref=will-p
-Battery Hookup: Cheap cell deals
bit.ly/2mIxSqt
10% off code: diysolar
-Watts 24/7: Best deals on all-in-one solar power systems, with customer support and distribution here in the USA:
watts247.com/?wpam_id=3
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Contact Information:
I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: williamprowsediysolar@gmail.com
Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar
FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers:
Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :)
DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program,
An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
This is the part where I have yet to tread in any real detail, so for me, this video should make sense after I re-watch it a few times so I can follow the wiring procedure(s) in my own head - and then hopefully I will fully understand how the entire electrical system is designed, and works together as a whole, including Solar and Battleborn's. I'm still heading out on the road @ 24 volts in a class A, possibly utilizing an additional 24 volt alternator to juice up the house batteries while going down the road. And CONGRATULATIONS on your new home Will, I am so excited for you! Keep the videos coming, your channel is doing GREAT my friend.
Your Introduction Video About ATS and It's Relevant Interconnections Is Very Good and Extremely Well Organized .. I'm A Retired EE, Licensed Master Electrician With Extensive Specializations including Solar, Power, Controls and Electronics .. My Comment Does Not Reflect an Endorsement, But, Does Include My Professional Suggestions .. That Said, There's A Clear Difference Between Grounding and Bonding Requirements (Ref The Most Current Edition of The NEC or NFPA 70), Also, Consider Barriers Between High and Low Voltage Within an Enclosure (you may even relocate ground and neutral bars inside left and right sides rather than side and bottom) .. Because This ATS has Exposed Open Air Contacts That Potentially Could Create an Arc, .. Butt Splices Should Be Taped Up With Electrical Insulation Tape .. However, I Prefer Wire Nuts (Strategically Placed and Taped of Course) Rather Than Butt Splices, .. and on that note, With Insulated In Line Butt Splices .. You Should Use Flat Crimps So As Not To Breach the Integrity of The Insulation Purpose On The The Butt Splice .. Indent Crimps Are Specific to Non-Insulated Butt Splices and Stranded Wire Connectors OK? .. Termination Wiring Methods Is A Trade Craft Art including Wire Tags With a (Custom Legend Wire Tag Identifier List Affixed to the Inside The Enclosure).. My Signature Preference includes Service Loops (EXTRA WIRE LENGTH vs CUT TO LENGTH) Specifically for Ease of Maintenance Process or Future Replacement and Modifications, Cut Back Stripping of The Outer Sheaths on AC Multi Conductor Cables I Always Remove Sheaths Close to The Inside Box Entry Rather Than Extending into The Wiring Area (this practice removes stiff sheaths as an obstacle too, especially when using Zip Ties for neatness and bundling), As For The Cable Entry Clamps .. I Prefer Neoprene Compression Grommets rather Than Bare Metal for Circular Sheathed Cables Primarily for More Uniform Compression .. Lastly, a Tip for Power Conductor Entry That Terminates At The Top Lugs .. Punch A Properly Sized Entry Hole Top Left or Top Right Above The Lugs For Side or Top Entry .. rather Than Entry on The Bottom .. I'm Sure You Visualize the Benefits of Get That Idea (keep in Mind, Power Conductor Bending Radius No Less Than 8 x The Radius of The Conductor).. In Closing, I Appreciate Your Open Mind for Positive and Safety Suggestions From Qualified Subscribers .. My Comment Items Should Not To Be Construed As Negative .. My Comment Items Are Just Contributions To The Community For Further Individual Consideration, Research, Verification and Compliance for Specific Applications and Their Relative Locations
Great suggestions here
@@textsmsmaster9884 service loops yes!
I have watched a ton of your vids but I haven’t seen anything on the system I want to build.
All the systems you cover are either/or systems(solar or generator/shore power).
I would like to build a system with the following components. 1000 watt solar, wind generator, large battery bank, small inverter generator(gas or lpg), 30amp shore power.
I will be building a trailer from scratch with all the usual RV stuff including A/C.
In some seasonal RV parks you must pay separately for the electricity you consume or, when boondocking no shore power at all. Is it possible to use the maximum output of the solar panels while simultaneously using the shore power or generator to supply the the remainder of the needed power?
Example; if my solar output is 900 watts and it takes 1200 watts to run the A/C, is there a way to only draw the extra 300 watts from shore power or generator?
If it is possible, would it be inherently inefficient or cost prohibitive? Would this affect the lifespan of the batteries?
Will…I can’t thank you enough for clarifying the converter charger connection at the end of the video. I have been wrestling with the best way to “hot wire” the charger to the transfer switch for 2 weeks and you clarified it in mere moments.
Thanks again…for yet another outstanding video!
Do you have to disable the factory converter, or does it get bypassed from the transfer switch for the new charger ? Lifepo4 battery
As a licensed electrician the video was helpful and straightforward. The only thing I'd be careful about is the use of those butt connectors. Many of them are really used only for automotive and low voltage use. In this application you would need them to be rated for 125v or higher. If it was be using this box I would use yellow or red wirenuts. As a commercial electrician this is a Square D Emergency Relay found in many schools and hospitals in use with lighting circuits with Normal and Emergency Circuits with the relay. The lighting circuit is used to pull in the coil and when that power is dropped out it closes over to the Normally Closed position to feed with the Emergency Lighting Circuit. 👍
I hear ya, but I’m not sure wire nuts are designed to handle the vibration that an RV is subjected to either. A properly done crimp cold welds the wires and provides superior strength and vibration immunity. Insulation could be addressed with an extra (marine grade) shrink tube applied over the top of the crimp.
both of you have made great points. if used in an RV / mobile setup, a better suited alternative to butt splices and wire nuts might be WAGO connectors (which now come with this ATS), which are rated for up to 32A / 450V.
Once again, I've been looking all over TH-cam to learn this and in just 15 minutes, you've taught me how. Thank You.
Cool. I bought and installed one of these for my home sump pump system early this spring. Already saved my a$$ this spring. Neighbors were scrambling with buckets and looking for generators after a storm took out the power. I was 1000 miles away, and resting happy as this automatically switched over to my inverted and marine battery array!
You should do a video hooking up ECOFlow Delta pro with a transfer switch.
You really saved me when it comes to understanding solar. Currently renovating a Winnebago and I’m not sure how far I would be without your help. Truly appreciated, warm thanks.
the first person to explain this clearly and succinctly. many thanks!
Thanks man, very helpful . Planning on adding solar to my 1989 class C and found nobody explaining this but You!
Wow you are a very clear speaker! No errors in your terminology! Very impressive.
I'd been hoping that you'd do an instructional on an ATS! Terrific, and thank you. Also, congrats on the first instructional video from the new place. When I saw your update about getting the house, I was really happy for you.
Thank you Ray! I'm glad you like the video :D and I am glad you noticed that this is the first video at the new house! I am still getting used to my new filming setup. More fun videos coming soon
Perfect video for my ‘question of the day’ as I progress on designing the solar upgrade to my travel trailer.
As always, your videos are clear, concise and provide heat examples thanks for the great work, Will.
Great video Will. Watched you for years and you’re the first channel I searched for install info on the TS-30 switch. Easy peasy!
Thanks!
I have been waiting for this kind of video. This was the missing piece for me to begin thinking about Solar for my RV. Thanks. Oh, congrats on the new place! Oh, I was an electrician on helos in the Navy, Your work looked fine!
More videos on rv electrical, rv solar, converters/inverters etc agm battery charge settings (float/charge etc) great video
You should read his book. After that you should be able to help others in the RV parks. Could even make some side change.
Amazing how doing videos from your house makes you look so happy, clean, and refreshed.
Another great video.
Thank you! And yes I feel much better now
This is WAY easier than running new wire to all the outlets! Appreciate it!!
Thank you! I’m just about to install 4-600w of solar to my vintage Airstream and was wondering how to connect everything to my converter, so I appreciate your explanation 👏
The first auto transfer switch, I thought of for solar, was the one you had on before, the funny thing is, I had one on the shelf. I hooked it up on 2-24v 750 AH highlow batteries. The dam thing works flawlessly. Even though my inverter is a inverter charger and totally controllable and programmable. I watch the transfer switch the most. I built a high end array, to show for potential sales. I run all shed lights off it, 110 tools even 220 equipment (ie plasma cutter) 200 amp Mig and Tig welder. I can’t use them long due too only having 1500 AH worth of batteries. I should have 4 batteries to run comfortably that would be minimum, at that point I will switch to 48v. Like I have said in the past you make electronics interesting. I tell all my Off Grid costumers to watch your videos and help support you. So they get a understanding of renewable.
Watched more than 10 videos but you went straight into how to seperate inverter power from the cgarge converter. Thanks. Great vid, keep em comin.😊
Your videos are by far the best for RV solar instruction. We are planning on doing an install of the classic 400 watt system detailed in your book in our year old Coachmen Freedom Express. Thank you for all the info, this would have been scary to do without the info you provide.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. This is what was missing in all the challenges that I have overcome in my project. I went to an electrical supply store and they wanted to sell me a $350.00 circuit breaker box with a transfer switch. I converted a 26 ft. commercial box truck into a tiny house. I have two 100 Ah Battle Born Batteries and 720 watts of solar panels, 60 amp Outback charge controller. and a Semlex 3000-watt converter., I am totally off-grid. I use a generator at times and want to use the generator as my "shore" power. It looks like this transfer switch would do the trick.
You are the best, love your vids, btw, I bought your book.
Hey Will.. thank you for all you do! This video is 3 years old, and still valid, but I'm hoping you could do a new version, using a 50 amp switch. I have installed 4x 200 watt panels on my 5th-wheel rig, along with 2 SOK 206aH batteries, and a 3000 watt inverter. I have purchased a 50amp automatic transfer switch, but not confident of the install without a bit of guidance. (and you are one of the few that I trust). Thx !
How did you end up with the system as I have a similar set up with SOK 206aH batteries and 800w solar panels and 2000w inverter?
What good timing! I was just looking at this model of ATS today for my RV. (Trying to talk my wife into letting me install one of your lithium battery builds.) After watching this I'm going to add the lithium battery charger to my parts list. Thanks!!
Awesome!!!
Such an intelligent young man. Stay safe and enjoy your life
I'll repeat what deserves to be repeated; I'm pleased that you did an instructional on an ATS. Thank you.
Thanks!! Glad I can help 👍
Hey Will, your video made this install less intimidating now I have all outlets working with my inverter, only one hiccup in your video at the 12:41 mark you mention 2 little screws to connect the charger, those screws hold relay contact legs and should not be touched, instead connect charger and shore power together to same bigger screw. I had to take drill rivets to be able to reattach the contacts and re-secure the ATS to box.
my 2cts.
love your videos and reviews !!
This is great. It answers the exact challenge I was facing for my stationary RV setup. Thanks.
No cringing over here. Pretty clean. Good move not zip tying the hots. I'm glad you covered the R.V. battery charger connection to the shore power circuit. Un-necessary on a solar set-up and more load on the inverter. Many people miss that.
I have that same ATS between my inverter and breaker panel in my shipping container. This way when I am charging my batteries the loads are being powered from the generator instead of the inverter. That lets all 60 amps from the charger go to the battery and not be spit with whatever the inverter needs. I ordered a 200 amp Lithium Iron Phosphate battery bank after watching your videos. My Outback Flexmax80 can be configured to charge LIfePO.
Good stuff Will. Some of us need 50 AMP shore power. I also feel better if the boxes are metal. Thanks for branching out.
There are metal 50 amp boxes for rvs on Amazon. About $150
I would like to see you do one or more videos specifically on setting up solar for a grid-down situation in a sticks and bricks suburban home, although I believe you've already provided considerable information on RV setups that can be adapted. Thanks, and keep up the great work!
Yes I'll be doing that soon. Working on one now
Thank you, Will! I always look forward to learning something new from your videos!
Will, what can I say. You are the BEST👍. I am ready to install my TS thanks to you. Been following you from your Rv street days. Remember your video on how to find an industrial park to spend the night😁
This ATS is awesome! It now comes with a clear cover plate over the contactor and it has pre-installed wago 221 wire connectors!
You inspired me to install my PV grid tie Solar system, the right way. I used "Solar Design Tool" to help me with the power company and permit paperwork. Work in progress.
Hey will, bit of an old video so i’m sure somebody has pointed it out, or if you will see this. If not, here is some useful information for you.
The lack of a ground rod is fine. The main purpose of a ground rod is to dissipate electrical surges from the grid, such as lightning hitting a pole 10 miles away or other sources of static electricity. If you are hooked up to shore power there should be one of these on the main service of the property, and when you are disconnected from the grid you don’t have to worry about these surges. The rest of the ground system serves a much more valuable purpose than this- Backup return path for current.
If a wire rubs out on the chassis, if there is no way for the electricity to flow back to the source and cause over current, tripping the breaker, it will energize the chassis and cause electrocution. It is absolutely vital the chassis is bonded to the ground of the AC system somewhere.
Now the ground also needs to be connected to the source somewhere. In a house, this is in your main panel. The neutral and ground are connected at this one point only. If a hot wire shorts against anything grounded, it will flow through the ground wire, through the connection to the neutral and trip the breaker.
When you are hooked up to shore power, this bond should be in the main panel of the property. When you are not hooked up to shore power, it is a different story. Most inverters do not have the neutral and ground bonded, because they expect you to do that in your generator. If we do the connection in the panel in an RV, that means there will be a second neutral to ground bond when you hook up to shore power. This can cause current to flow on the ground which can cause electrocution and stuff melting. So, what I like to do is make a jumper from ground to neutral on a wireable plug going to the inverter. You could also use one of those 2 position breaker boxes and just have one breaker, and do your bond there.
This is why the transfer switch also switches the neutral. They expect you to have a neutral to ground bond on the inverter/generator side. I suggest you research some youtube videos on grounding and bonding- ElectricianU has some good videos on that.
Oh yeah- A lot of generators also have no neutral to ground bond. This is known as a floating neutral. Always check with a multimeter set to continuity on generators and inverters and understand your grounding system.
The way you have this system set up, if you connect a regular inverter to it there will be no neutral to ground bond while on inverter power. This basically means the ground is doing nothing and it vastly increases risk of electrocution.
I was wondering if you sell any of your older equipment...I’d be interested in seeing a list of goodies if you do.
Your TH-cam channel is by far the BEST on RV solar and RV electronics...we all owe you!
Will, got to hand it to ya. Looks like you have enough material for book part two. And congrats on living the dream with your own home. Thanks for your Inspiration. Living in Vegas, the fast lane.
it not only made dense, it was exactly what i needed, thanks as per usual
As usual thorough and to the point
Only thing different I'd so would be shrink tubing to help from the wires pulling out of the butt connectors, or use wire nuts but I love how straightforward this is 👍
First time watching your channel. Subscribed immediately. You are GOOD! Well done and thank you.
Will, been following your channel. I got a Thor Sanctuary 19P and a Anker 767 Powerhouse and can't get it to power the RV. Both the engineers at Thor and Anker blame each other and each has suggested to use a neutral ground plug (which I tried to). I think the problem is with my Southwire 41301 Automatic Transfer Switch(ATS) with Reverse Polarity, when I hook up the Anker 767 to it (no grounding plug) it shuts off) and I get a reverse polarity fault on the ATS and display, faulty power. Thor said it's Anker outpower is not wired right and I tested it with Anker engineered with an outlet tested and it passed. I believe it is the ATS that is blocking it since it is not sensing a ground. I can power everything else through the Anker but it won't transfer any power to the RV. I tried 30a, 15a, 12a. I talked to an engineer at Mastervolt (that is the type of battery system) and he suggest lowering the amps to 2 or 3 amps to a slow charge. Any help from any would be appreciated. Anker states it should charge an RV but I can't get it to work.
great videos.was watching how to install ts-30,but you should do one showing how to install ts-30 with the automatic transfer switch that's in the power distribution box,like your rv has in this video.your videos are better explained than most.hope you can do one soon.keep up the good work.
You are so good, that I can even watch you at 1.5 speed. Nice house by the way :)
This is extremely helpful for my RV setup, thanks for the detailed walkthrough!
Always good information Will! I look forward to continuing watching your channel.
Very useful Will because I am adding an inverter and a new converter/charger for Lifepo4 battery to my trailer. Its a little confusing though for people that don't know how these things work. In your example you use cord with a male plug pigtail to representing the incoming shore power. Of course it would never look like that. The shore power cable would lead to a female socket on the side of the trailer. I hope your viewers weren't looking for a male plug end somwhere!
I was wrong on that. Sorry.
Nice vid! As an electrician I would recommend wire end ferrule for the ground wires. With that upon the threads the threads can't move afterwards anymore.
Good point
I’m always impressed by your knowledge and skills.
I think you did a good job and feel there is nothing unsafe . This will help the newbe as well as the fuxit guy like me.
I can now hook up that transfer switch to my rig with confidence
I have been struggling a little on this one since I am trying to go boondocking application
Thanks for your time and efforts. Love you vids. I have learned alot.
Awesome! Glad I can help
This was fantastic! Thank you so much; I'm learning a lot and appreciate how you cover it. Have you thought about starting a Patreon account?
Good job explaining everything, very well done.
The only thing I would caution against is using those style crimp butt connectors, they have a tendency to over heat. I would have used the crimp cap style connectors so you have wire to wire contact and you're not depending on the barrel of the butt connector to carry any of the load, the crimp caps barrel is only used for clamping force and does not carry much, if any of the load.
It would be interesting to see you do a test between the two different styles of connectors under extreme load. Back when I owned a stereo shop, I would see customers come in with melted 8-4 Gauge butt connectors on their main positive power wires, we would add a proper connector, usually we would install something better than a crimp cap but sometimes that's all that would fit,and they wouldn't have the problem again.
This will probably never be an issue but I prefer the better safe than sorry method.
Hello Will,could you post a video with a diagram for an RV set up? My question is from the transfer box to the inverter. Should there be a fuse or a shut off block and also, what does the solar system look like from the inverter on? Thanks.
A few years back my converter box died. Replaced it with a better one and installed the transfer switch at the same time. I was running mainly on solar, and ran generator when needed. It was ok.
We also have a second ats for the inverter with a sub panel, The converter power has a photo eye to disable it during daylight periods and only operates while connected to shore power or during generator operation.
Been searching for 2 days for this . thank you.
I just received my Go-Power T30 transfer switch (July 2022). They now come with a green plastic guard over the switch. The guard is great but it doesn't allow for the last segment of your video. There is no way to get the converter/charger connection to the small screw that you suggested. Besides, I think that screw is only intended to hold that connector to the terminal. I'd not recommend using that screw anyway because it's too small to make a decent contact.
I just stacked my 2 connectors on that one, larger, screw and utilized the same slot in the green plastic guard.
BTW...... I really enjoy your teaching style and recommend your videos to others.
Hi Will, big fan. Where does the converter/charger fit with this set up? I thought that my 30A shore line comes into the converter/ charger first. Thanks, enjoy Vegas
Thanks for the vid! I'm contemplating installing this but this will go a long way to helping me if I do.
Excellent video ,will make my installation a lot easier.They now come with a plastic cover on the switch part so no chance of shorting anything out now
i was wondering if the switch has the possibility to turn off the inverter while on shore supply mode? and back on when in battery mode?
At minute ~12:39 you mention terminating the battery charger. I assume this is so that the inverter doesn't pull power from the batteries and try to charge them up at the same time... That said; do you have a video on how to terminate the battery charger on this port? Or can you guide me in the right direction? -Thank you,
Would this wiring, to separate the converter form the inverter , work on a 50 amp transfer switch?
I'm looking for a way to stop having to trip the breaker on the converter when I use my Inverter.
Hi Will, Now that you've got space in your new house, maybe a white board so you can do some block diagrams would help? I know that sometimes it's easier for me to draw a simple block diagram to explain in simple terms what I'm trying to get across before I start with the "show and tell".
Great vid! I never thought about an ATS in an RV as everything I've seen has had an AC-off-DC switch, but it makes perfect sense. Great vid!
Easy install, we are going to have to get one for our solar power system.
Thank you for the video, it helped clarify some of the wiring issues i have been thinking of. My issue though is I have an motorhome with an onboard generator, plus the shore plug. My understanding is the ATS is works for two (2) incoming power sources. With already have the two on board, it is possible to add the solar to the ATS or do they have an ATS which could handle 3 incoming power sources, to switch between the 3, the inverter (solar), the generator, and the shore power?
I have the same issue. Did you figure it out?
Same thing I want to know
@@rawbdiggity I have figured this issue out and it works great. You will need a second ATS, if you already have the factory or the original one in the RV. You will keep the shore power and the generator power going into the first ATS with the output power feeding into the new, or second ATS. I have fed this power into the "timed" or generator input side of the second or ATS.
I ran my inverter into the dedicated input of the send or new ATS. With this brand being shown you can run a jumper on the H1 to the H2 wire terminals. You will be able to see the H1 and H2 printed on the circuit board. This will get rid of the 30 send delay on the second ATS since your first ATS already has the 30 second delay to allow for your generator to warm up or get to speed prior to taking the draw.
You do not need to use the jumper if you do not need or want. I went without for a couple months but found a jumper laying around so I placed it in. It is easy, you can solder a wire between the H1 and H2 terminal, but if you do not, it will just take about 40 to 60 seconds until your shore power or generator turns powers up your RV.
It is a very simple and easy process, you will just need two (2) ATC switches. Just keep your factory ATS wired, take the outgoing power of the 1st ATS, run it into your second along with your inverter power into the second, then the output going into your breaker panel. It works flawlessly.
I am very happy with how it works.
ryche2882 that’s funny the second main comment I asked was this exact thing about adding an ATS behind the first for solar(inverter) the next question I had was how or where would you put a 3 pole contactor to disengage the converter when the panel is running off the solar(inverter) ?
Btw thanks for the confirmation on running second ATS I really appreciate it and the added jumper info for that setup
@@rawbdiggity I have found several videos for doing this. In the videos I watched, they placed the 3 pole right next to the breaker panel. I have not done this yet, and in all honesty I do not think I am going to. It is recreational use only. If you are living out of the RV full time maybe I would. But I just flip the "converter" breaker when I uses the inverter. It really is not a big deal to me. LMK what you do and how you decide to do it. Maybe I will get to it next year.
Excellent video, Will! Thank you!
Hello will! at 4:00 you explain how if you don’t have a generator or have removed it, you can take that spot and plug it into your inverter (of your solar system) instead, how exactly can i do this?? i have built the off grid king blueprint that you have on your site successfully but trying to figure out how to wire in the rest of my camper van without re-wiring everything, would all i need to do is replace this wire from within the automatic transfer switch? Thank you.
Will, may I ask a question the answer to which I've not been able to find?
In the typical RV solar setup, I understand how to route in generator power, shore power, and solar power.
But how - where - do I route in vehicle alternator power?
yea new video.
i'm so excited about new place, also cant w8 to see your new solar system .
Its weird to see you in a house Will! 😯 lol
Question: I want to use this Transfer switch to charge my batteries when plugged into shore power. I watched your video and understand on how to make that possible. How do I go about using my solar charge controller as well. Can I hook both to the same battery bank? Or do delete the go power option and just use solar or is there a way to use both?
You can use both. Hook up the solar controller as close as you can to the actual battery and use appropriately sized wires for the load.
I'm getting me one of those automatic strippers. I got to use one last month. So nice.
Wanted to see it in action.
I'm installing one of these next week. Thanks for the help.
wow. very informative and explained very clearly in detail. thank you very much for your time.
Nice workshop, good lighting and sound. Oh and the video was informative as well, thanks
I know that this is the recommend installation method with the normally closed operation of the switch going from shore power to panel but in my experience I find that the coils used to hold the contacts when switched draw a constant 30 to 60 watts so why not run the inverter on the normally closed side so it's not using extra battery power and run the shore power on the switched side where there is an abundance of power?
I see that the wiring diagram on the site calls for a fuse on the line from the charger... is that build in or something you need to add? Thanks!
Thanks for the video it was a lot of help going to hook one up on my houseboat I'm building.
Thank you so much for this! I'm confident I can tackle this now.
Do you have a video that shows shore power and portable solar generator set up. This is for my cargo conversion.
Awesome video! Helped a bunch. One quick question, though. When you hook up the battery charger for lifepo4 batteries, do you have to physically disconnect the original converter, or does the transfer switch bypass it?
Nice video Will. A few questions/clarifications that im pretty sure I understood correctly but wanted reassurance:
1. The plug on right is going to shore or generator correct?
2. The wire on left is going to rest of the AC circuits throughout the building (eg. various 110v outlets)? Or perhaps for a larger building the breaker panel?
3. Wire on bottom goes to plug into your invertor connected to solar (typical solar setup w charge controller etc)?
Im pretty sure Im right on 1-3 (please correct if Im not), but question 4:
4. Assuming I am correct on 1-3, how does this "automatically switch" between the 2 power sources? My building is remote and not on grid, so my goal was to run off of solar until I came to the building and brought my generator to hookup at which point I would like for it to run on generator when I plug it in. Then when I unplug it go back to having the solar panel/ batteries be rhe main source of power (I assume they will charge when im.connected to generator too!)
My thoughts are this ATS would accomplish this, but wanted to make sure - the wiring makes sense in my mind, but not sure how it chooses which source to pull power from? Is one the "primary" circuit (in my case when I plug in the gen) defaulting to this source when I plug in? Similar to say when the grid is back online? Whereas when the gen is unplugged (or no grid), it would default to solar (or in most peoples case a generator)?
Excellent video you g man. Thanks.
Man I love your videos. I'm looking to do a complete off grid setup on my camper. I want to use the battery bank to run the RV through the outlets, I want to still have the ability to run shore power when available and I will be adding solar later but charging with generator for now. Do you have a video that has a build like this?
Great video, thank you. What if you have a 50 amp coach and need to use a 50 amp transfer switch and your inverter output does not have 2 hot legs like the 50 amp does?
Well done video. I'm a little confused about the the charger portion of my converter. It seems that when the transfer switch changes over to battery power, the battery will be in a charging loop, attempting to charge itself. Is that incorrect?
i have that problem too and my dometic fridge goes in error mode when on inverter until i disable the charge portion of the wfco rv panel
If you mean when switched over to the inverter then yeah that’s a huge problem if you also have the charger/converter hooked up to that. Really bad. You should only have the charger/converter sucking power from the shore side of the transfer switch.
The wiring diagram in the manual for that unit shows the inverter wires going to the lower wires not the middle ones. And the shore power cables wired to the middle wires
Will is a gangster. Nice tutorial man
Great info! Thanks! Just a question. I’m looking at being able to expand. I’m new at this solar thing and was interested in installing an ATS first. My current set up is shore power cord and then a 30 amp EMS surge protector then my distribution panel. My question is can I install an ATS somewhere in line? Thanks!
Hey Will. Question: What is the difference between using an automatic transfer switch to connect solar to my travel trailer VS. running a plug from my inverter and connecting a wall-30a adapter and just plugging in my rv?
Dude, thank you so much. I had the exact question about the inverter connection.
Hi Will. I do have a question in regards to connecting the new solar system with 2000 watt inverter to the main panel. My solar system will not be able to run my AC unit so I can't see hooking up my inverter to the main panel via a 50 amp automatic transfer switch unless I turn my two AC breakers off before turning on my inverter. Have you had other ways to hook up to the main panel without going through the process of disconnecting the AC system breakers or is just easy to remember to turn the AC breakers off? As well to turn off the converter.
I Have the 400 Watt Renogy system with the 3000w inverter from renogey. I also got the transfer switch box. Im seeing everyone is connecting to the RV or off the RV braker. I have my own braker box and shore line power. Any help would be grateful. Thank you for your time and help. And great tutorials.
The location where my shore power comes in is several feet from my converter box on the opposite side. Do I have how to install the automatic transfer switch as close to the converter box as possible? Or can I install it closer to where the shore power comes in?
Does this work for split-phase? What do you do with the neutrals?
I need to add one of these but also figure out how to have the AC only run when on shore power. I guess I could add a small circuit breaker box before the transfer switch and have the AC connect there and remove it from the RV distribution circuit breaker. I might also connect the Electric Water heater there as well.