Another pro tip... if someone on eBay or elsewhere offers to sell you one of these either slightly damaged, dinged or bent, don't buy it, there's a very high probability once it's removed, you can not reinstall it again, the alignment for all four holes is sprung, and once you remove it, you'll never be able to reinstall it. You'll just waste your time and have to buy a new one to replace it. These need removal every 12000 miles to check the valve lash and possibly adjust.
Why use Allen head screws instead of Torx? Everything else on my GS is Torx, meaning I need some Allen keys just for a few accessories. This is dumb and incomprehensible on expensive accessories like Touratech.
Hello. Enjoyed your video. However I have just removed some BMW OEM bars from my 2022 R1250GS and that aluminium spacer is fitted to the upper front mounting and not on the lower engine mount. Also there is a captive nut on the upper mount so no need for a loose nut. Are things just different on Touratech bars. Cheers John
I wish Touratech and all the BMW accessory manufacturers would just use torx bolts for their accessories - as BMW supply on every single fixing on their bikes - it just means i have to take more hex allen key drive to take things apart when on the road, and one more thing to forget! It surely would cost any more to do this?
A lot of our newer parts are being speced with Torx bolts now but it will take time before all the parts for the current bike are using the new fasteners.
Hi Iain, thanks for the video. You don't show the use of anti-seize. Should you apply it to all bolts? Small amount? Similarly the threadlocker - just a small amount (as you show at 3.17)? Thanks. PS. Top spelling of you name, btw. Do you get people trying call you Lain in the US?!
Anti-seize is best used sparingly and only on bolts that have some type of mechanical thread lock where they are installed. With the TT parts, especially the bolts that are fastened with Nylock nuts need anti-seize. And yes, Lain is constant mostly on computers because of the default fonts. haha
These bars should be removed to adjust the valves. It takes an extra 20 minutes every 12000 miles and you get all that protection while you are riding.
Looking at my copy of your 2023 catalog, it only lists this for the GS. Does this same guard work for the GSA in conjunction with the BMW upper guards?
If I understand correctly I believe you removed the bolt from the upper-rear mounting point. You will have to remove that black plastic puck from the frame (pull it out) and reassemble it on the crashbar with the hardware that is behind it in the frame. That mounting point is just pressed into the frame and held in place with the friction of two o-rings. The bolt only holds the plastic mounting puck to the crashbar.
@Touratech USA thanks for replying. I did try to remove the plastic puck, O-rings must have already expanded and melted because of the engine's heat. It's stuck forever. ☹️
You can spray some penetrating fluid where it meets the frame and give it a few bonks with a mallet. It should slide out without too much effort, I've had to remove plenty of them over the years.
@Touratech USA will give it a try. If it doesn't work, my next option is to tap a larger bolt into the black puck. And if it doesn't work, Hopefully I can buy/order a black puck from your company?
We keep those as a spare part here in the USA. You should be able to get them regardless of where you are located by contacting your local Touratech distributor.
As an add, for the mentally challenged and aged, such as myself, because the angle of the camera for mounting the RIGHT guard is from the front and not the side, be sure to be smarter than me, and insert the guard from BENEATH the coolant hose and slide it UP, from underneath the radiator hose. I tried the insert the polymer plug first and tried to insert it from ABOVE the hose, forcing the hose down, and about fried my brain. Maybe next time Do a video starting with the Right side, show the little detail, and then mount the LEFT side. ie Always do a Touratech video mounting the most difficult side first with all the crap in the way. Also choose a better camera angle to demonstrate it. This video leave you with the impression that you just shove the bushing in first, left or right, and everything just should bolt right up. Yes, operator error, on my part, I am not the sharpest tool in the shed, but then what motoryclist is, when we choose a form of transportation 30x more dangerous than driving a car and getting injured.
Another pro tip... if someone on eBay or elsewhere offers to sell you one of these either slightly damaged, dinged or bent, don't buy it, there's a very high probability once it's removed, you can not reinstall it again, the alignment for all four holes is sprung, and once you remove it, you'll never be able to reinstall it. You'll just waste your time and have to buy a new one to replace it. These need removal every 12000 miles to check the valve lash and possibly adjust.
great video. thank you. I'm not super skilled with a wrench but this video made it easy.
Thanks for the video, I just finished to install my upper and lower crashbars
Why use Allen head screws instead of Torx? Everything else on my GS is Torx, meaning I need some Allen keys just for a few accessories. This is dumb and incomprehensible on expensive accessories like Touratech.
Please make the extended version for the adventure model
Hello. Enjoyed your video. However I have just removed some BMW OEM bars from my 2022 R1250GS and that aluminium spacer is fitted to the upper front mounting and not on the lower engine mount. Also there is a captive nut on the upper mount so no need for a loose nut. Are things just different on Touratech bars. Cheers John
I wish Touratech and all the BMW accessory manufacturers would just use torx bolts for their accessories - as BMW supply on every single fixing on their bikes - it just means i have to take more hex allen key drive to take things apart when on the road, and one more thing to forget!
It surely would cost any more to do this?
A lot of our newer parts are being speced with Torx bolts now but it will take time before all the parts for the current bike are using the new fasteners.
Hi Iain, thanks for the video. You don't show the use of anti-seize. Should you apply it to all bolts? Small amount?
Similarly the threadlocker - just a small amount (as you show at 3.17)?
Thanks.
PS. Top spelling of you name, btw. Do you get people trying call you Lain in the US?!
Anti-seize is best used sparingly and only on bolts that have some type of mechanical thread lock where they are installed. With the TT parts, especially the bolts that are fastened with Nylock nuts need anti-seize.
And yes, Lain is constant mostly on computers because of the default fonts. haha
@@TouratechUSA Thanks. 😀
Unfortunately there is no mention if the bars need to be removed to service the engine (valve adjustment).
These bars should be removed to adjust the valves. It takes an extra 20 minutes every 12000 miles and you get all that protection while you are riding.
Looking at my copy of your 2023 catalog, it only lists this for the GS. Does this same guard work for the GSA in conjunction with the BMW upper guards?
Thanks for the question. These bars do NOT fit the GSA.
I took out my crash guard to paint it black. Unfortunately the black plastic spacers nut got loose. Now i cant get it mounted
If I understand correctly I believe you removed the bolt from the upper-rear mounting point. You will have to remove that black plastic puck from the frame (pull it out) and reassemble it on the crashbar with the hardware that is behind it in the frame.
That mounting point is just pressed into the frame and held in place with the friction of two o-rings. The bolt only holds the plastic mounting puck to the crashbar.
@Touratech USA thanks for replying. I did try to remove the plastic puck, O-rings must have already expanded and melted because of the engine's heat. It's stuck forever. ☹️
You can spray some penetrating fluid where it meets the frame and give it a few bonks with a mallet. It should slide out without too much effort, I've had to remove plenty of them over the years.
@Touratech USA will give it a try. If it doesn't work, my next option is to tap a larger bolt into the black puck. And if it doesn't work, Hopefully I can buy/order a black puck from your company?
We keep those as a spare part here in the USA. You should be able to get them regardless of where you are located by contacting your local Touratech distributor.
Thanks for the video!
Is this suitable for a 18 r1200gs?
As an add, for the mentally challenged and aged, such as myself, because the angle of the camera for mounting the RIGHT guard is from the front and not the side, be sure to be smarter than me, and insert the guard from BENEATH the coolant hose and slide it UP, from underneath the radiator hose. I tried the insert the polymer plug first and tried to insert it from ABOVE the hose, forcing the hose down, and about fried my brain. Maybe next time Do a video starting with the Right side, show the little detail, and then mount the LEFT side. ie Always do a Touratech video mounting the most difficult side first with all the crap in the way. Also choose a better camera angle to demonstrate it. This video leave you with the impression that you just shove the bushing in first, left or right, and everything just should bolt right up. Yes, operator error, on my part, I am not the sharpest tool in the shed, but then what motoryclist is, when we choose a form of transportation 30x more dangerous than driving a car and getting injured.