I have been woodworking on and off for 50 years. I have to say, if I could teach, your style is one I would emulate. Even though I know most of these things, a review of skills and knowledge is never a bad thing. A very good job sir. Thank you for your time and trouble.
At 70 I've used tablesaws a long time. Still have all my parts. This is one of the most informative videos I've seen on you tube. You done a great job. All new users should watch and do what you have shown. Great video.
Your feedback means a lot, especially coming from someone who's been using table saws for as long as you have. I'm glad I could contribute something valuable. Thank you for watching!
It is nice seeing an old craftsman radial arm saw in a shop still... My dad had one in our basement workshop when I was growing up as a kid, and we still have it today (despite having no place for a workshop at the house) They are possibly the single most versatile tool in the workshop, but they required the operator to actually use their brain and ensure their own safety instead of trying to regulate safety into the tool itself. They where eventually regulated out of existence, and now everyone has to buy and find space for two different saws, and potentially 3-5 other large tools depending on what accessories you had. In just one tool, you had table saw, compound miter saw, plus optional accessories that would turn it into a shaper, a drill press, a drum sander, a thickness sander (the one my dad did not have) and possibly more that I was not aware of. As they say though... Jack of all Trades, Master of None. They had greater potential to flex than purpose built tools, so it could induce stacking errors into a project if you where not careful. They also did not have nearly the dedicated safety features that modern purpose built tools. That said I know of more table saw related injuries than radial arm saw related injuries despite all the safety features than radial arm saw injuries, and I knew a LOT of people who had radial arm saws in my youth. Guess people had a different mindset back then or something.
When I saw your self made saw block, I was stunned. I've been thinking about buying one of these and only after seeing yours I realise that it's much better to just make my own. It's cheaper, I can make it exactly how I like it, and when it gets damaged, I can easily replace parts or just scrap it and make a new one. Thanks for the insight.
Just found your channel. I retired last fall and I’m working on setting up a do a little bit of a shop including wood work. Really have Injoyed your Chanel. I have a lot of the tools I need because I’ve done a lot of carpentry work. Been buying tools and planing this for years. Learnt a lot from you already. Thank you
Rich, love what you have to say. I just bought a new table saw with in the last few days and am in the process of setting it up. I just found your video and am very pleased. Some of the things you mentioned I already have or know. I attending to do everything you mentioned in the future. You explained everything very clearly and look to be an old easer like me with a lot more experience than me. When and if I retire, I hope to stay busy with woodworking. I have now subscribed, and will keep looking for your advice. Great stuff, keep it up.
Another fantastic saw here in the U.S. is the Skil 10". Rack and pinion fence, built in legs that are very stable, and some calibration features not found on saws over $800. I got mine for $270 on sale and it's fantastic.
Turns out I had done all of these things, but I really appreciated your complete explanations. Very good for new woodworkers, or those who are just starting to take it seriously, as I did about 5 years ago. I must say, making my tablesaw sled really upgraded my efficiency and enjoyment.
Having just purchased my first table saw, I thank you for sharing these tips and taking the time to make this video. The alternate camera angles were a bonus! Also, though I can't quite identify it - nice watch!
This is without a doubt the very best video on the table saw for newbies I have seen on TH-cam. It is the only one that has gone through setting up a new saw, it is explained well put across even better, and the knowledge you have gained is freely passed on to us who new to woodwork. Thankyou for this video and I am now subscribed
I bought a table saw jig book when I started woodworking 30 years ago. This video is basically that book in a one-hour video. Everything jig you need to know. Awesome! I just subscribed to your channel and am looking forward to seeing more of your content.
Tip #17 for newer woodworkers just building out their tool set. Try to pick one brand for your cordless tools and avoid needing multiple different batteries and chargers.
I don't think ppl realize how useful this is. Granted, I do have 3 platforms but the bulk of my daily building tools are all the same platform but I do have a few that are on a different platform due to availability of the type of tool I needed at the time and price of course. I would say you definitely want your drill and driver to be on the same platform but they can be different from your saws and whatnot because I feel that your drill/driver is it's own category and should generally have their own dedicated batteries so they are always readily available for use. I keep two spare batteries for my drill/driver so I'm never waiting on a charge.
Or do like I did and make your own battery slide. I've bought many nicad tools, for indtance, and converted them to Makita lithium ion batteries. I selected Makita because the Makita battery has its own battery protection cirquit, meaning, your tool does not need its battery protection cirquit.
This was a lot of helpful tips. Great information. I'm still very much an amateur and have seen many of these tips in various videos, but I like that your video has them bundled together. I even learned a couple new tips.
The latest Evolution R255tbl+ table saw has an adjuster for aligning the blade - this is such a good idea for a budget saw. Evolution are a great company. Working my way through your video. Great job.
Thanks Rich, you taught me a lot about the table saw that I can definitely use. Do you happen to have a video on a radial arm saw? I have just been given one. What I need are the good, safe practices on how to use it. Thanks again for the table saw info.
Thank you for your teaching video. Your voice is calming and soothing. I do have a couple questions about the making for table sleds. Why wouldn't you want friction on the table? What is the possibility of sagging? And does it matter if it sags?
I just like to avoid excess friction, when I can, to make the saw cut easier. Considering that the sled doesn’t sit on the table saw all the time, I doubt that it will sag from its own weight. However, as another viewer noted, I pushed down on the right side of the sled with my hand, causing it to sag. That’s something that I never do, and when I did it, I mentally asked myself why I did it that time. Having it sag like that is a problem, as it would show up in the cut, causing the blade to cut the board at an angle, on the return stroke.
Great job. As a fairly new woodworker (3 years) I've learned a lot from videos like yours. Although I've implemented many of your tips already, I learned a couple new ones from you today. Also, many of your tips acted as reinforcement to some of my jig designs and practices. Thanks for sharing your experience.
One comment - put a blade box on the back of your sled. You might think your hands will never be there, but my uncle, who also had 50 yrs as a professional builder and woodworker, amputated his thumb using a table saw sled. Get rid of the l plexiglass shield, it’s useless, and your hands never will be near the blade on that side, but they’re ALWAYS in harm’s way on the rear fence of the sled.
@sawinery-woodworking hello Rich,thanks for reaching.Sorry to inform about your website which is difficult to navigate .can we get the project software through sawinery.net Please can you do a full video about your website and how to access your courses.Steve Ramsey website is a delight for ease of access. I want to get the project software from sawinery.
@@2logj Thank you for your feedback. We're currently working on improving the site, so it’s undergoing development at the moment. Appreciate your patience and understanding!
Hi Dr Rich, thank you for the great video. Just on the sled, you should have protection of the blade protruding pass the sled. I nilly got caught myself.
Hi from France ! I've got the same Rage 5S table saw and I'm very happy with it. Another great improvement I made is adding a soft start module, it's cheap, easy to wire and very efficient. The new aluminium plate from Evolution is also a nice upgrade to replace the orange plastic one, except for angled cuts of course. Thanks for your video.
I would like to point out a minor error in the fence extension section around 15:20 . . . Rich shows a small fence extension made of an aluminum extrusion, and demonstrates using it as a sacrificial fence. It is a safety accessory, but it is not meant to be a sacrificial fence extension, it is actually a short fence meant to give room for the off cut to have space between it and the fence to prevent binding (which could cause a kickback, or kick up). Because it is an aluminum extrusion fence, it is just as bad to allow it to come in contact with the blade as it is to allow your primary fence to contact the blade. for the type of fence extension he was talking about just use a spoiler board... a sacrificial piece of wood clamped to or set over your fence. a popular way of doing this is to make a U or H shaped piece made of 3 boards and slide them directly over your saw's fence, but in doing so, you need to readjust the fence scale to match. This will protect the blade and fence while providing additional safety, and potential mounting locations for featherboards/rollers. Rich correctly goes on to point out that the short auxiliary fence is also very useful for miter cuts though a well built DIY crosscut sled is EASY to make with MANY plans on the web for different ways to make it. It is vastly superior to using an auxiliary fence and miter gauge.
Thin kerf blades also require less horsepower. I use a Dewalt DW735 jobsite saw, carefully aligned, and with a sled can work to great precision with jigs such as yours. Thanks for a practical video.
Great video! I’d like to you actually using the jigs in videos, making cuts and showing off what they achieve and showing the practical uses and the results of finished work. Now I want to make some of these jigs and sleds to do better, more precise cuts.
I think the router is close second behind the table saw in terms of versatility and usefulness. Maybe another one of these videos for routers and router tables would be nice!
This video is GOLD. Most all woodworking creators here on YT are shills for sponsors and that filthy YT lucre--whether the products are good or not. There's a reason why the following maxim exists: "A poor carpenter blames his tools." Rock on!
Very well done, Sir! While I have varying levels of experience on each of your 16 topics, I learned many points on all of them. Notes aplenty! Thank you for sharing your expertise with so many. We are safer and better for this video!
Thankyou Dr Rich, what a gift you have given us in this video! Especially the safety aspects. I wondered while you talked about making jigs whether changing an old blade for a new one would cause damage to the jigs which were a perfect fit for the old one. Does the act of changing a blade knock the alignment and direction out a bit, and if so can you use something (say, your zero-clearance throat plate) to realign it?
Good question. A lot depends on the old and new blades, specifically their thickness and the resulting saw kerf. Older blades were pretty much always 1/8” thick, with thin kerf blades being a specialty item. Now, most blades are thin kerf, with 1/8” thick blades being harder to come by. Given that, changing from one blade width to the other will affect how the saw cuts in these various jigs. For most, the difference is insignificant; other than the wider blade cutting a wider kerf. But switching from a wider kerf to a narrow kerf could allow some splintering along the edge of the cut. The one jig where it’s really going to make a difference is with the tapering jig. That jig requires the edge of the jig being right up against the saw kerf, as that edge is the cut line. So, if you switch blades, you might find that you’re not cutting on your line.
Thanks for this. Made adjustments to my einhell table saw. Haven't gotten around to making jigs yet. Love that you say you too cheap to buy the clamps. I can't afford to buy many of these things and as they are too expensive for my pocket.
I have the same saw and these are great ideas. One thing, you said change the blade to a better one, which one do you recommend?mine got blunt after cutting laminate flooring.
I bought the same saw just over a year ago. I use the panel saw slide regularly instead of a sled. Works for what I do. I can't use a dado stack as I'm on the other side of the pond. I confess to buying the zero clearance plate now offered by the manufacturer, as I did feel confident in building 1. I use the shipped blade at the start of a project as my lumber is all recycled. Pallets, fence pickets, bed stats whatever I can scrounge. I do use an 80 tooth for finish cuts. Thanks for doing what you do here. Take care & stay safe.
You folks on that side of the pond seem to be in luck. This looks like it gets you legal for dado blades. th-cam.com/video/jsA0wY_FmJ0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Nzu-PP08qIis5P-e
Rich failed to mention that your taper jig is also good for cutting nice straight boards out of uneven wood such as live edges, and curved boards, making it especially useful if you are buying live edge boards, or you have a portable saw mill (such as an alaskan saw mill for your chain saw) If your lumber provider is using a portable saw mill, or otherwise selling live edge boards, this jig might become your best friend.
If you don't have a zero clearance throat plate and need to cut small strips that can fall into the blade slot, start by lowering the blade all the way down. Lay a strip of wide painter's tape over the blade slot. Switch the saw on and slowly raise the blade through the tape. Done. Easy peasy.
To keep from cracking your plexiglass when screwing it in, use rubber washers. They are inexpensive at Lowe's or Home Depot, and it saved you from having to replace the plexiglass as the washers give some cushion to the plexiglass between it and the metal screws.
Thanks for this video. Got myself a contractor saw and tried to use a thin kerf blade (2.6mm) from CMT, but ran into the issue that the riving knife is too wide. (2.8mm intended for a 3mm blade). They don't sell replacement riving knives so unfortunately my thin kerf blade is useless (won't use the saw without the riving knife)
Could you get some 2.5 mm aluminium sheet and copy the riving knife holes and outline onto it and cut it out? Or some stiff fibreboard you can plane to the right thickness you can cut out a riving knife replacement from?
Riving knives are the current rage but in 50 yrs of using table-saws I’ve used them but never owned one and have never had a problem. The only way you can use one is when you’re ripping stock- if you use a dado or a sled you have to take it out anyway.
Absolutely loved this video. I've just purchased the Rage5-s and am currently putting it together; it's my first table saw and I can't wait to start my first project which will be the sled that you designed/recommended. Thank you. PS: Can I use a Dado Stack on this saw?
The arbor on the table saw is too short for a full dado stack. I’ve put a partial stack on mine, allowing me to cut a 3/8” dado; but haven’t tried going beyond that. Technically, as long as the nut fully engages with the threads on the arbor, it should work.
Hello i have this exact saw. I find i have to check fence for square for each and every cut. When its locked down its solid but when i am positioning it it moves out of square and doesnt automatically square itself when i tighten it, how can i change that
Sorry to hear about your problem. I’ve never had it myself. However, it appears to me that the problem might be the two nylon blocks on the bottom of the fence. These should fit snugly into the track. If they are out of adjustment or damaged, they would allow the fence to wobble, potentially causing the problem you’re referring to.
Wisdom is earned ❤ I made a crosscut sled yesterday before watching this video and it is my first one so please note my comment is coming from a kook. I noticed your sled pivot to your right at 38m41sec in your video when you applied pressure to the side overhanging the guide. It seems that if you were running it on the table surface you would never have that happen and considering the sled is about precision would it not be better to run it flush on the table surface ? Especially with all that beeswax, it should just float.
Sharp eyes! Yeah, I did that wrong. Probably the only time I’ve ever pressed down on a crosscut sled that way. Your opinion is valid. I’d say it’s more a matter of personal opinion.
What purpose does the adjustable side piece on the push block serve? Is it for stability when pushing narrower pieces? Every time I see one of these, no one talks about what the side piece is for, lol.
Hi, I have the same saw table and stated you use dado blade. I have looked for a suitable dodo and unable to find one as the bore is 1 inch/ 25.4mm. Most bores are 25/32" (20 mm), 0.984" (25 mm) or 1 3/16 (30 mm). Can you provide where you brought yours for the evolution rage 5. I'm in Australia. It would be of assistance if you supply in the video details a list of the commercially available items you use with the locations you brought them. Thanks
The dado stack I make reference to is an old set I have, old enough that it isn’t even carbide tipped (that tells you how often I use it). The important part is that it has a 5.8” arbor hole. On the Evolution saw, the washer that goes on the arbor before the blade is reversible. It comes factory installed with the side for 1” arbor blades facing out. But the other side allows for 5/8 arbor blades, making the saw more versatile. Please note that the arbor isn’t long enough for a full dado stack. I’ve only used it for about 1/4” dadoes. It could probably accommodate 3/8”, but that’s about it.
Hi,when I enquired about adding a dado stack, Evolution informed me that none of their saws would take one. My question for you is how you manage to do it. Also, what stack did you use, I'm based UK side
The Evolution table saw really isn’t designed for a dado stack. It’s easy to tell, because of how long the arbor is. Nevertheless, the arbor is long enough to stack a couple of blades. I’ve never done more than 1/4” on it, as that’s about the maximum the arbor will allow, while still screwing the nut on all the way. Can’t tell you the brand, as it’s an old stack I have. The markings have worn off.
I started with a ridgid job site table saw and still have and use it, but my wife really wanted me to get a sawstop. Is it expensive? Of course. What does losing a finger cost you?
its good to see a evolution rage5 table saw in use in the usa, i have one and its outstanding,, i have also made most of the jigs you suggest, but its not just about the equipment its about the user, useing it safely, that applies to any machine,. there is a wealth of help and how to use/do out there , and above all do it safetly thats always number 1. thanks for the video/help.
I like that saw you have and I see Amazon has them right now for $379.00 :) Only thing I'm not a fan of is its tubular base. If I get one I think I'd try to retrofit it to my Rockwell model 9's cabinet style base. I love my old Rockwell but it does have its shortcomings not the least of which is finding blades I like with it taking 9 inch blades.
Screws for the plexiglass should be flat underneath like Kreg screws and not a tapered head which will crack the plexiglass if too much torque is used. Better safe than sorry.
The purpose of a thin kerf blade is less power. A must on low powered saws. Blade stabilizers aren’t a “might” they’re a must. The very first thing you do is check the alignment. Good effort but you left out a couple important things.
I use a blade stabilizer but only 1 outboard of the arbor. If I add one inboard then I offset my measurements with my ruler on the fence guide. But I have a 3 hp cabinet saw and use a very flat Forrest blade. For the sled, I don't fix the location until I make test cuts. Which means I don't glue it down. I screw in the fence in 2 points, make my cut, then verify it is square. Then adjust or call it good and add more screws for the final setting. Also the back fence on my sled is not a solid wood that might warp. There was an article in Fine Woodworking that suggested cut strips of MDF and 2 strips of plywood to sandwich these together, plywood on top and bottom, and glue that up. This fence is not going to warp unless you get it soaking wet. Then rip/trim/joint the fence to straight and flat. Want to add fixtures? That is why you have plywood on the top. FYI, I find it handy to make a 90° sled for small or medium parts. The larger sled can be unwieldy.
In a humid climate the saw top will rust requiring cleaning. I found that a light coat of clear epoxy with a small amount of acetone, alcohol, or s slow drying glycol will provide a gravity leveling to eliminate brush strokes. When cured s light sanding and 000 steel wool buff will provide a smooth surface. I also treat the miter tracks.
Dust collection hint: If you cannot use the blade guard that comes with your table saw, and cannot afford $300 - $1000+ for an over head dust collection arm, you can make a piece of plywood that clamps to your riving blade or even your fence and holds a shop vac extension wand, or crevice tool close to your blade (some people will even allow their blade to cut the extension wand or crevice tool to get even closer to the blade. This allows you to safely keep the vacuum suction as close to the blade as possible.
🔨 Looking for another upgrade to your table saw? Try Our Thin Rip Jig:
www.sawinery.net/products/thin-rip-gauge?
One of the simplest and best tips on table saw do's and don'ts I have seen on YT.
Thank you! Appreciate it.
I have been woodworking on and off for 50 years. I have to say, if I could teach, your style is one I would emulate. Even though I know most of these things, a review of skills and knowledge is never a bad thing. A very good job sir. Thank you for your time and trouble.
Thank you so much! Really appreciate it, it motivates me to keep sharing what I know. 😄
I learned a couple things 63 and still need schooling hats off to you Your good at teaching
At 70 I've used tablesaws a long time. Still have all my parts. This is one of the most informative videos I've seen on you tube. You done a great job. All new users should watch and do what you have shown. Great video.
Your feedback means a lot, especially coming from someone who's been using table saws for as long as you have. I'm glad I could contribute something valuable. Thank you for watching!
2nd that at 62👍
Thank you sir you made a great video
Yours 50 yrs of experience came with some very useful tips!
Thank you.
Awesome, thanks for the kind words! 😊
Every table saw owner should watch this.
Yes, especially before spending $2400 on a table saw and then finding that I need have spent only $379. Ouch!
@@arthurvandervelde😂Man, you sure had to take a hard L after staring at that receipt or monitor screen if you bought online.😂
I am a retired Woodshop Teacher. This is very well done. Nice job! It gets me excited to build another jiggertwo
Great video. Someone that is thinking of the real hobbyist woodworkers that cannot spend a fortune. Danke!
It is nice seeing an old craftsman radial arm saw in a shop still... My dad had one in our basement workshop when I was growing up as a kid, and we still have it today (despite having no place for a workshop at the house) They are possibly the single most versatile tool in the workshop, but they required the operator to actually use their brain and ensure their own safety instead of trying to regulate safety into the tool itself. They where eventually regulated out of existence, and now everyone has to buy and find space for two different saws, and potentially 3-5 other large tools depending on what accessories you had. In just one tool, you had table saw, compound miter saw, plus optional accessories that would turn it into a shaper, a drill press, a drum sander, a thickness sander (the one my dad did not have) and possibly more that I was not aware of. As they say though... Jack of all Trades, Master of None. They had greater potential to flex than purpose built tools, so it could induce stacking errors into a project if you where not careful. They also did not have nearly the dedicated safety features that modern purpose built tools. That said I know of more table saw related injuries than radial arm saw related injuries despite all the safety features than radial arm saw injuries, and I knew a LOT of people who had radial arm saws in my youth. Guess people had a different mindset back then or something.
this is probably the most useful wood working video i have seen on youtube thank you for this!
When I saw your self made saw block, I was stunned. I've been thinking about buying one of these and only after seeing yours I realise that it's much better to just make my own. It's cheaper, I can make it exactly how I like it, and when it gets damaged, I can easily replace parts or just scrap it and make a new one. Thanks for the insight.
Just found your channel. I retired last fall and I’m working on setting up a do a little bit of a shop including wood work. Really have Injoyed your Chanel. I have a lot of the tools I need because I’ve done a lot of carpentry work. Been buying tools and planing this for years. Learnt a lot from you already. Thank you
Rich, love what you have to say. I just bought a new table saw with in the last few days and am in the process of setting it up. I just found your video and am very pleased. Some of the things you mentioned I already have or know. I attending to do everything you mentioned in the future. You explained everything very clearly and look to be an old easer like me with a lot more experience than me. When and if I retire, I hope to stay busy with woodworking. I have now subscribed, and will keep looking for your advice. Great stuff, keep it up.
Thank you for subscribing, I really appreciate the support! I'm glad the video was helpful for you. Enjoy your new table saw! 😊
Another fantastic saw here in the U.S. is the Skil 10". Rack and pinion fence, built in legs that are very stable, and some calibration features not found on saws over $800. I got mine for $270 on sale and it's fantastic.
Turns out I had done all of these things, but I really appreciated your complete explanations. Very good for new woodworkers, or those who are just starting to take it seriously, as I did about 5 years ago. I must say, making my tablesaw sled really upgraded my efficiency and enjoyment.
Such a great presentation, it felt much faster than 56 minutes. Love all the tips and information.
Thanks for the compliment! Happy to know the video kept you interested. ☺
Having just purchased my first table saw, I thank you for sharing these tips and taking the time to make this video. The alternate camera angles were a bonus! Also, though I can't quite identify it - nice watch!
This is without a doubt the very best video on the table saw for newbies I have seen on TH-cam. It is the only one that has gone through setting up a new saw, it is explained well put across even better, and the knowledge you have gained is freely passed on to us who new to woodwork. Thankyou for this video and I am now subscribed
Thank you so much, your feedback means a lot! Thanks for subscribing!
What a great insight and tips from a Pro that have been in the business for 50 years! Thank you for you video !
I bought a table saw jig book when I started woodworking 30 years ago. This video is basically that book in a one-hour video. Everything jig you need to know. Awesome! I just subscribed to your channel and am looking forward to seeing more of your content.
Tip #17 for newer woodworkers just building out their tool set. Try to pick one brand for your cordless tools and avoid needing multiple different batteries and chargers.
Picking a brand for cordless tools is like a marriage. Need to pick the right one the first time, or you'll have to pay more the second time around.
I don't think ppl realize how useful this is. Granted, I do have 3 platforms but the bulk of my daily building tools are all the same platform but I do have a few that are on a different platform due to availability of the type of tool I needed at the time and price of course. I would say you definitely want your drill and driver to be on the same platform but they can be different from your saws and whatnot because I feel that your drill/driver is it's own category and should generally have their own dedicated batteries so they are always readily available for use. I keep two spare batteries for my drill/driver so I'm never waiting on a charge.
Or do like I did and make your own battery slide. I've bought many nicad tools, for indtance, and converted them to Makita lithium ion batteries.
I selected Makita because the Makita battery has its own battery protection cirquit, meaning, your tool does not need its battery protection cirquit.
This was a lot of helpful tips. Great information. I'm still very much an amateur and have seen many of these tips in various videos, but I like that your video has them bundled together. I even learned a couple new tips.
Awesome, it's great to hear that you found this helpful. Thanks for the support!
The latest Evolution R255tbl+ table saw has an adjuster for aligning the blade - this is such a good idea for a budget saw. Evolution are a great company. Working my way through your video. Great job.
Great job! Really clear and complete.
Thanks Rich, you taught me a lot about the table saw that I can definitely use. Do you happen to have a video on a radial arm saw? I have just been given one. What I need are the good, safe practices on how to use it. Thanks again for the table saw info.
I would suggest you make sure the blade is parallel to the miter slot first. That ensures the blade and table are square. Then set the fence.
Thank you for your teaching video. Your voice is calming and soothing. I do have a couple questions about the making for table sleds. Why wouldn't you want friction on the table? What is the possibility of sagging? And does it matter if it sags?
I just like to avoid excess friction, when I can, to make the saw cut easier. Considering that the sled doesn’t sit on the table saw all the time, I doubt that it will sag from its own weight. However, as another viewer noted, I pushed down on the right side of the sled with my hand, causing it to sag. That’s something that I never do, and when I did it, I mentally asked myself why I did it that time. Having it sag like that is a problem, as it would show up in the cut, causing the blade to cut the board at an angle, on the return stroke.
@sawinery-woodworking thank you so much, sir!
Great job. As a fairly new woodworker (3 years) I've learned a lot from videos like yours. Although I've implemented many of your tips already, I learned a couple new ones from you today. Also, many of your tips acted as reinforcement to some of my jig designs and practices. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thank you! I'm glad that the video could offer you some new tips and reinforce your existing practices. Appreciate the feedback!
One comment - put a blade box on the back of your sled. You might think your hands will never be there, but my uncle, who also had 50 yrs as a professional builder and woodworker, amputated his thumb using a table saw sled. Get rid of the l plexiglass shield, it’s useless, and your hands never will be near the blade on that side, but they’re ALWAYS in harm’s way on the rear fence of the sled.
I would think the shield would help protect from kickbacks if nothing else.
I have a shield on my sled and I find it helps reduce sawdust in my face. Not a huge difference but every little bit helps.
What's a blade box? Just a marking or something physical?
@@oh.ok_woodwork just a small box behind the back of the sled to protect you from the blade going through it.
@@a9ball1 ah, like a "don't push the sled from this tiny box because the blade is aligned to go through this bit"
very useful video, full of much needed info. Thank you for taking your time to help us all.
Amazing knowledge.This is like a college course on Woodworking.Please continue.
I like all jigs especically the push blocks,sleds
Thank you so much! We just released a masterclass on wood finishing as well, hope you check that out on the channel! 😊
@sawinery-woodworking hello Rich,thanks for reaching.Sorry to inform about your website which is difficult to navigate .can we get the project software through sawinery.net
Please can you do a full video about your website and how to access your courses.Steve Ramsey website is a delight for ease of access.
I want to get the project software from sawinery.
@@2logj Thank you for your feedback. We're currently working on improving the site, so it’s undergoing development at the moment. Appreciate your patience and understanding!
@sawinery-woodworking please do .Your project software for life is a revolutionary idea.Keep us inspired.
thank you. it would also be great if you linked to some of the products you use in the video.
30:10, the piece of plywood is not aligned square to the fence.
Really enjoyed watching all the great ideas. Thank you.
Taller sled rails for less drag = genius. Thanks!
Hi Dr Rich, thank you for the great video. Just on the sled, you should have protection of the blade protruding pass the sled. I nilly got caught myself.
Hi from France ! I've got the same Rage 5S table saw and I'm very happy with it. Another great improvement I made is adding a soft start module, it's cheap, easy to wire and very efficient. The new aluminium plate from Evolution is also a nice upgrade to replace the orange plastic one, except for angled cuts of course. Thanks for your video.
I would like to point out a minor error in the fence extension section around 15:20 . . . Rich shows a small fence extension made of an aluminum extrusion, and demonstrates using it as a sacrificial fence. It is a safety accessory, but it is not meant to be a sacrificial fence extension, it is actually a short fence meant to give room for the off cut to have space between it and the fence to prevent binding (which could cause a kickback, or kick up). Because it is an aluminum extrusion fence, it is just as bad to allow it to come in contact with the blade as it is to allow your primary fence to contact the blade. for the type of fence extension he was talking about just use a spoiler board... a sacrificial piece of wood clamped to or set over your fence. a popular way of doing this is to make a U or H shaped piece made of 3 boards and slide them directly over your saw's fence, but in doing so, you need to readjust the fence scale to match. This will protect the blade and fence while providing additional safety, and potential mounting locations for featherboards/rollers. Rich correctly goes on to point out that the short auxiliary fence is also very useful for miter cuts though a well built DIY crosscut sled is EASY to make with MANY plans on the web for different ways to make it. It is vastly superior to using an auxiliary fence and miter gauge.
Thin kerf blades also require less horsepower. I use a Dewalt DW735 jobsite saw, carefully aligned, and with a sled can work to great precision with jigs such as yours. Thanks for a practical video.
Thanks for sharing your Knowledge and Experience! It has been very helpful.
Awesome! Appreciate the support. 😀
Great video! I’d like to you actually using the jigs in videos, making cuts and showing off what they achieve and showing the practical uses and the results of finished work. Now I want to make some of these jigs and sleds to do better, more precise cuts.
Excellent ! Woodworkers can save a lot of money following your lead. Thanks.
I enjoy the knowledge that you share in your content, Thank you.
I’m really glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching!
I think the router is close second behind the table saw in terms of versatility and usefulness. Maybe another one of these videos for routers and router tables would be nice!
This video is GOLD. Most all woodworking creators here on YT are shills for sponsors and that filthy YT lucre--whether the products are good or not. There's a reason why the following maxim exists: "A poor carpenter blames his tools." Rock on!
Really appreciate your support and kind words! I'm glad the video was helpful. 😊
🎉thanks for sharing this with me and take time to show your tips..blessings
You're welcome! Glad I could help out.
Thank you for sharing your wisdom!
Very well done, Sir! While I have varying levels of experience on each of your 16 topics, I learned many points on all of them. Notes aplenty!
Thank you for sharing your expertise with so many. We are safer and better for this video!
Thanks for your kind words. I'm happy you found this one helpful. Appreciate the support! 😊
As the miter slots are the one element that cannot be adjusted, the blade and then the fence should be adjusted to parallel the slots.
Thanks for great video
Thankyou Dr Rich, what a gift you have given us in this video! Especially the safety aspects. I wondered while you talked about making jigs whether changing an old blade for a new one would cause damage to the jigs which were a perfect fit for the old one. Does the act of changing a blade knock the alignment and direction out a bit, and if so can you use something (say, your zero-clearance throat plate) to realign it?
Good question. A lot depends on the old and new blades, specifically their thickness and the resulting saw kerf. Older blades were pretty much always 1/8” thick, with thin kerf blades being a specialty item. Now, most blades are thin kerf, with 1/8” thick blades being harder to come by. Given that, changing from one blade width to the other will affect how the saw cuts in these various jigs. For most, the difference is insignificant; other than the wider blade cutting a wider kerf. But switching from a wider kerf to a narrow kerf could allow some splintering along the edge of the cut.
The one jig where it’s really going to make a difference is with the tapering jig. That jig requires the edge of the jig being right up against the saw kerf, as that edge is the cut line. So, if you switch blades, you might find that you’re not cutting on your line.
Thanks for this. Made adjustments to my einhell table saw. Haven't gotten around to making jigs yet. Love that you say you too cheap to buy the clamps. I can't afford to buy many of these things and as they are too expensive for my pocket.
Thank you so much sir, I appreciate your experience sharing and advices, it has help me a lot 👍🙏
Hi do you remove the stock washer when you use the blade stabilizers
Yes, it takes the place of the washer.
In a word - Excellent! Thank you Sir :)
Great video and excellent suggestions sir!
I have the same saw and these are great ideas. One thing, you said change the blade to a better one, which one do you recommend?mine got blunt after cutting laminate flooring.
I have the same saw Sir, I’ll be upgrading mine at the W/end.
Top video.
I bought the same saw just over a year ago. I use the panel saw slide regularly instead of a sled. Works for what I do. I can't use a dado stack as I'm on the other side of the pond. I confess to buying the zero clearance plate now offered by the manufacturer, as I did feel confident in building 1. I use the shipped blade at the start of a project as my lumber is all recycled. Pallets, fence pickets, bed stats whatever I can scrounge. I do use an 80 tooth for finish cuts. Thanks for doing what you do here. Take care & stay safe.
You folks on that side of the pond seem to be in luck. This looks like it gets you legal for dado blades. th-cam.com/video/jsA0wY_FmJ0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Nzu-PP08qIis5P-e
Excellent advice. Perhaps Lexan -- less prone to fracture -- instead of Plexiglass for your sled guard.
Rich failed to mention that your taper jig is also good for cutting nice straight boards out of uneven wood such as live edges, and curved boards, making it especially useful if you are buying live edge boards, or you have a portable saw mill (such as an alaskan saw mill for your chain saw) If your lumber provider is using a portable saw mill, or otherwise selling live edge boards, this jig might become your best friend.
So great! Thank you!
I’ve cut my thumb twice. Apparently I’m a slow learner. No major damage but I still see the kerf design.
Thanks for your emphasis on safety.
If you don't have a zero clearance throat plate and need to cut small strips that can fall into the blade slot, start by lowering the blade all the way down. Lay a strip of wide painter's tape over the blade slot. Switch the saw on and slowly raise the blade through the tape. Done. Easy peasy.
Great video... a wealth of valuable information.
Thanks very much!
Great presentation and a Wealth of knowledge. I’ve learned a good bit from your presentation. Thank you! 🤜🤛🏻
Thank you! Happy to hear you enjoyed it!
Great video !
To keep from cracking your plexiglass when screwing it in, use rubber washers. They are inexpensive at Lowe's or Home Depot, and it saved you from having to replace the plexiglass as the washers give some cushion to the plexiglass between it and the metal screws.
Exceptional. Thank you.👏🪚
Thank you God Bless
At 16:22, you should have the mitre gauge to hold and move the wood. Fancy forgetting that!
Thanks for this video.
Got myself a contractor saw and tried to use a thin kerf blade (2.6mm) from CMT, but ran into the issue that the riving knife is too wide. (2.8mm intended for a 3mm blade). They don't sell replacement riving knives so unfortunately my thin kerf blade is useless (won't use the saw without the riving knife)
Could you get some 2.5 mm aluminium sheet and copy the riving knife holes and outline onto it and cut it out? Or some stiff fibreboard you can plane to the right thickness you can cut out a riving knife replacement from?
Riving knives are the current rage but in 50 yrs of using table-saws I’ve used them but never owned one and have never had a problem. The only way you can use one is when you’re ripping stock- if you use a dado or a sled you have to take it out anyway.
Absolutely loved this video. I've just purchased the Rage5-s and am currently putting it together; it's my first table saw and I can't wait to start my first project which will be the sled that you designed/recommended. Thank you. PS: Can I use a Dado Stack on this saw?
The arbor on the table saw is too short for a full dado stack. I’ve put a partial stack on mine, allowing me to cut a 3/8” dado; but haven’t tried going beyond that. Technically, as long as the nut fully engages with the threads on the arbor, it should work.
@@sawinery-woodworking
Thanks Mate for the feed back, it's very much appreciated, as is your channel.
You are the freaking best! Thank you. Keep it up!
Appreciate the support, thanks!
Hello i have this exact saw. I find i have to check fence for square for each and every cut. When its locked down its solid but when i am positioning it it moves out of square and doesnt automatically square itself when i tighten it, how can i change that
Sorry to hear about your problem. I’ve never had it myself. However, it appears to me that the problem might be the two nylon blocks on the bottom of the fence. These should fit snugly into the track. If they are out of adjustment or damaged, they would allow the fence to wobble, potentially causing the problem you’re referring to.
Thank you for this video.
I've done those sleds but also made smaller versions but think the taper jig needs to be longer.
Great pro tips!
What dimensions of wood are you using for the fence on the crosscut sled?
I’m using a 1x4. In the back, it’s the full width of the sled, but in the front it’s only 8” long, to save on weight.
@@sawinery-woodworking Thank you so much! Appreciate the video and response. Keep up the great content
Wisdom is earned ❤
I made a crosscut sled yesterday before watching this video and it is my first one so please note my comment is coming from a kook. I noticed your sled pivot to your right at 38m41sec in your video when you applied pressure to the side overhanging the guide. It seems that if you were running it on the table surface you would never have that happen and considering the sled is about precision would it not be better to run it flush on the table surface ? Especially with all that beeswax, it should just float.
Sharp eyes! Yeah, I did that wrong. Probably the only time I’ve ever pressed down on a crosscut sled that way. Your opinion is valid. I’d say it’s more a matter of personal opinion.
What purpose does the adjustable side piece on the push block serve? Is it for stability when pushing narrower pieces? Every time I see one of these, no one talks about what the side piece is for, lol.
You’ve got it, it’s for improving stability when cutting narrow pieces.
@@sawinery-woodworking Thanks!
Hi, I have the same saw table and stated you use dado blade. I have looked for a suitable dodo and unable to find one as the bore is 1 inch/ 25.4mm. Most bores are 25/32" (20 mm), 0.984" (25 mm) or 1 3/16 (30 mm). Can you provide where you brought yours for the evolution rage 5. I'm in Australia. It would be of assistance if you supply in the video details a list of the commercially available items you use with the locations you brought them. Thanks
The dado stack I make reference to is an old set I have, old enough that it isn’t even carbide tipped (that tells you how often I use it). The important part is that it has a 5.8” arbor hole. On the Evolution saw, the washer that goes on the arbor before the blade is reversible. It comes factory installed with the side for 1” arbor blades facing out. But the other side allows for 5/8 arbor blades, making the saw more versatile.
Please note that the arbor isn’t long enough for a full dado stack. I’ve only used it for about 1/4” dadoes. It could probably accommodate 3/8”, but that’s about it.
Not sure if dado stacks are legal. Other than some countries health and safety seems to frown on them
Great video. Comprehensive.
Hi,when I enquired about adding a dado stack, Evolution informed me that none of their saws would take one. My question for you is how you manage to do it. Also, what stack did you use, I'm based UK side
The Evolution table saw really isn’t designed for a dado stack. It’s easy to tell, because of how long the arbor is. Nevertheless, the arbor is long enough to stack a couple of blades. I’ve never done more than 1/4” on it, as that’s about the maximum the arbor will allow, while still screwing the nut on all the way. Can’t tell you the brand, as it’s an old stack I have. The markings have worn off.
It would be more useful if you have some close up shots. It will bring the video up a knotch. Some people are very new to woodworking.
I started with a ridgid job site table saw and still have and use it, but my wife really wanted me to get a sawstop. Is it expensive? Of course. What does losing a finger cost you?
its good to see a evolution rage5 table saw in use in the usa, i have one and its outstanding,, i have also made most of the jigs you suggest, but its not just about the equipment its about the user, useing it safely, that applies to any machine,. there is a wealth of help and how to use/do out there , and above all do it safetly thats always number 1. thanks for the video/help.
Absolutely valuable 👌
I like that saw you have and I see Amazon has them right now for $379.00 :) Only thing I'm not a fan of is its tubular base. If I get one I think I'd try to retrofit it to my Rockwell model 9's cabinet style base. I love my old Rockwell but it does have its shortcomings not the least of which is finding blades I like with it taking 9 inch blades.
Holy crap this is excellent!
Thank you!
If you buy a thin kerf blade you need to be sure your riving knife will still work I found that out the hard way on a jobsite dewalt tablesaw
Puedes poner el enlace para comprar el disco de reemplazo ?
If you’re talking about the blade stabilizers, I bought them on Amazon.
No , me refiero al disco de corte
Screws for the plexiglass should be flat underneath like Kreg screws and not a tapered head which will crack the plexiglass if too much torque is used. Better safe than sorry.
The purpose of a thin kerf blade is less power. A must on low powered saws. Blade stabilizers aren’t a “might” they’re a must. The very first thing you do is check the alignment. Good effort but you left out a couple important things.
I use a blade stabilizer but only 1 outboard of the arbor. If I add one inboard then I offset my measurements with my ruler on the fence guide. But I have a 3 hp cabinet saw and use a very flat Forrest blade.
For the sled, I don't fix the location until I make test cuts. Which means I don't glue it down. I screw in the fence in 2 points, make my cut, then verify it is square. Then adjust or call it good and add more screws for the final setting.
Also the back fence on my sled is not a solid wood that might warp. There was an article in Fine Woodworking that suggested cut strips of MDF and 2 strips of plywood to sandwich these together, plywood on top and bottom, and glue that up. This fence is not going to warp unless you get it soaking wet. Then rip/trim/joint the fence to straight and flat.
Want to add fixtures? That is why you have plywood on the top.
FYI, I find it handy to make a 90° sled for small or medium parts. The larger sled can be unwieldy.
And less friction. Less material removed meaning less dust too
Thanks! New Sub here
In a humid climate the saw top will rust requiring cleaning. I found that a light coat of clear epoxy with a small amount of acetone, alcohol, or s slow drying glycol will provide a gravity leveling to eliminate brush strokes. When cured s light sanding and 000 steel wool buff will provide a smooth surface. I also treat the miter tracks.
You can use the taper jig to square up an edge if you don't have a jointer, can't you?
Yes you can; works well.
Dust collection hint: If you cannot use the blade guard that comes with your table saw, and cannot afford $300 - $1000+ for an over head dust collection arm, you can make a piece of plywood that clamps to your riving blade or even your fence and holds a shop vac extension wand, or crevice tool close to your blade (some people will even allow their blade to cut the extension wand or crevice tool to get even closer to the blade. This allows you to safely keep the vacuum suction as close to the blade as possible.
Thank you