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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ค. 2024
- This video covers EVERYTHING you need to know about defrost thermostats. We go in depth on the different types of defrost thermostats (traditional and high limit), and we show how to test each type of high of high limit thermostat. The defrost thermostat limits the maximum temperature for the defrost cycle. If the thermostat fails, the refrigerator’s automatic defrost cycle will not run, frost will accumulate on the evaporator coil, and the refrigerator will not cool properly.
Purchase Defrost Thermostat:
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Table of Contents:
0:00 - Intro
0:12 - Where to purchase
0:20 - Updated information
0:31 - What is a defrost thermostat?
0:48 - Defrost Timer
1:16 - Defrost Control Board
1:34 - Traditional Defrost Thermostat
1:44 - High Limit Defrost Thermostat
2:25 - Reading Temperature Ratings
3:37 - Testing Traditional Defrost Thermostat
4:48 - Testing High Limit Defrost Thermostat
6:08 - Visual Inspection
6:45 - Outro
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Learn how to replace a defrost thermostat here: th-cam.com/video/ED2DEBiQVLE/w-d-xo.html
I do all my own work and have several rentals with GE side by side. You offer all information in one place from one source. I find what I need and don't need to spend a day on TH-cam. Thanks for making this such a smart website/channel!
You're welcome! We are glad we could help!
Great work. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Thanks for the video. I have a Samsung model RF268ABRS and i am getting continuity at room temperature (.03 ohms) on the black thermostat. Now that you explained the thermostat is a high limit that explains why it has continuity. I do have the other sensor and it is reading 4.5K ohms at 74 degrees ambient temp so it is also good. My defrost element is measuring over 159K ohms so it is bad. Thanks again for the video. 👍🏼
You're welcome! Glad to hear that you found the bad defrost heater.
Well done. Clear and concise.
Great! Thanks for sharing!
You keep up this work and you will put the appliance guys out of business 😂
Thank you that was a great video
You're welcome!! We are glad we could help!
Great video. I have a GE side by side door. My defroster failed. It was replaced along with the thermostat that came with it. Problem I'm having is that now the defrost cycle is too hot! Seems like the cold isn't kicking on fast enough. Does that mean I have the wrong thermostat or faulty one? It looks like the traditional first one in your video. But I also have a thermistor so I'm a bit confused since you said usually the high limit thermostat is the one with a thermistor. But yeah my ice is melting together into one big piece and I see icicles on the racks. Help!
Did you replace the parts with Genuine GE parts? Have you tested the temperature sensor like we show here: th-cam.com/video/SBfqozNgLYY/w-d-xo.html
So, for the first thermostat, if the temperature is between 23°F and 64°F, What's the state of it, open or closed?
It would depend on the current state of the thermostat. If the thermostat is cooled down and in a closed state, once it reaches 64F it will open. Once open, the thermostat would need to cool down below 23F to close.
It would be better if the term "continuity" was defined. Continuity is the presence of a complete path for current flow. A circuit is complete when its switch is closed. A digital multimeter's Continuity Test mode can be used to test switches, fuses, electrical connections, conductors and other components.
The defrost thermostat for my refrigerator is out of stock. Can I replace it with one with similar temperatures. (Mine is KitchenAid/whirlpool #WP2321805, with marking “L23.8-19.4C”. I assume this means “close at 75F, open at 4.4C = 40F”.)
If the temperature rating is the same, you should be okay to replace it with a different part number.
Ok so great video and all, buuut, how am supposed to test a thermostat with a close temp of 22f?
You will need to cool the thermostat below 22F using a working freezer.
Nice 100%
😎
If a thermostat is between the 2 numbers shown on the thermostat, is it open or closed?
It depends on if the thermostat is in the open or closed state.
Ok I have a Samsung RF4267HARS/XAA Fridge, Numbers On My Defrost Sensor, is 40/60 ?
How would I test This with A Multimeter ? From what Im seeing here, at Freezing Temps, this Should be Closed ? And at 140°or even Room Temp 76° ETC, it should have an Ohm Reading Correct ?
If all of what Ive said, Is Correct then mine is Bad, It Is Closed at Below Zero Temps, and closed in a Bowl Of 140° Water as well, no Change in Ohms Either Way
We couldn't find the opening temperature listed for your model refrigerator, but most are around 140F. It sounds like it is bad from what you are describing. You could try heating up it higher than 140F to see at what temp it opens.
@@PartsDr Ok thanks, I'll try it a Little hotter, But Definitely Seems bad to me, thanks for the Reply.
Also, 1 other Question, in testing My Evaporator Fan for Voltage, should the Fan be Running with the Magnets Taped to the Marks ?
Mine Did not show 12 Volts, Fan Breifly Came on, then Stopped.
What about 3 wire thermostat?
What is the part number that you a referencing?