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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- This video shows the proper way to test your defrost thermostat. There is a lot of misinformation on testing the defrost thermostat. Most defrost thermostats CANNOT be tested in a glass of ice water because they have a closing temperature that is colder than 34°F.
If you find that you have a bad defrost thermostat you can shop for a new one on our online store by searching with your refrigerators model number, or entering the part number off of the old defrost thermostat here: partsdr.com/app... We sell new OEM appliance parts for Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Estate, Roper, Frigidaire, Electrolux, Tappan, Westinghouse, Kitchen Aid, Jenn Air, Bosch, LG, Samsung, and more.
If your refrigerator is not going through the automatic defrost cycle then you will need to test the defrost thermostat on your refrigerator. When the refrigerator stops going through the automatic defrost cycle the refrigerator will not cool properly because the frost will block the air flow on the evaporator coil and cause the cold air to stop circulating. The defrost thermostat is usually located behind the back panel in the freezer section of the refrigerator, and it is usually clipped onto the evaporator coil.
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I have been an appliance service tech for 7 years now
Still like watching these videos lol
Thanks for watching. If you have any tips for us, let us know!
Thank you for the video. I ordered a timer and a thermostat. the T Stat was busted open like the bad one you showed. Great video. This will be my second time replacing these 2 pieces. the first time was over 10 years ago and that time the fridge was about 7 years old. I'm hoping it last another 10 after this. $45 worth of parts saved me $1000.
Bi metal time d forted th,, over lord realy set piont know all one by cheked temperch,,,,wir testng must be comper checking runing eazey but not reparing samll thing semples ok
Thank you kindly for your SPOT ON video regarding the defrost thermostat. Especially the decoding of the open and close temperatures. As a hint, ICE CUBES taken out of the freezer are typically about 0F. So if you have a second working freezer compartment, you can place the thermostat in the ice tray for 10 minutes, and then remove with this ice WITHOUT WATER to reduce the defrost thermostat temperature. To take the temperature, some meat thermometers do get down to 0f. Fortunately my digital volt-ohm meter was purchased with foresight and comes with a temperature probe. God Bless You and God Bless America.
🇺🇸
Very very well explained, this is the best defrost thermostat video ever.thanks
We are glad you found it helpful!
Good video. Whenever one of our fridges starts acting up around 8-12 years (icing/warm refrigerator usually) I replace all the main defrost components and put the unit into a rental. It's usually around $180 to do the timer, heating element, thermostat, cold control and maybe a cracked plastic door bin or two. Can't believe the cost of new fridges - used to buy basic rental property fridges for $249 vs. $1000 today. Too much printing of fake money.
Very smart!
Isn't it amazing how basic of an idea it is yet all our so called "experts" are always shocked when printing more money makes inflation go up lol.
One simple trick - adopt the gold standars
Agreed.. Reaganomics at work. National debt tripled in 3 years. It's only gotten worse
Thank you Ryan, thank you! My thermostat is EXACTLY the same as the one you showed, it was even blown up the same!
Nice!!!
You make the best videos. No frills, complete information & will sell me the parts.. Awesome!! Thank you.
Very informative, thanks for giving us shade tree mechanics the info we need to make an educated diagnosis. Your vids are always very helpful
We are glad you found it helpful!
You saved me money! , thank you very much
That's great!
I wish I had seen this video a few hours ago. I just replaced my defrost thermostat after using the place-in-ice-water method, and I think it may not have been necessary. My timeline: my fridge was not getting cold enough. I realized it the day before going on a trip. I vacuumed the (very dusty) coils at the bottom, and the next morning the fridge seemed colder, but I thought I should order parts just in case. I ordered a heater and a thermostat. The fridge seemed to be operating normally when I returned from my trip, but I had the parts, so I thought I'd go ahead and dismantle the freezer and test the existing parts. My intention was to return both parts if the old ones passed the tests. I opened up the back of the freezer and there was no ice on the fins. I thought, great, the existing heater works! I cut out the thermostat, placed it in ice water, and didn't get continuity. So I decided to go ahead and put in the new thermostat. Because I'm not experienced with using a multimeter, I thought I'd test the new thermostat to see how the test should work. To my surprise, the new thermostat also failed the test! Stumped, I thought I might as well install the new thermostat, since I had opened the package and couldn't return it. My fridge is now gradually cooling off. Now I have seen your video, and can attest to your statement that the place-in-ice-water method of testing is not adequate. I'm going to let the site from which I bought my parts know about my experience. I cleaned the fridge thoroughly, so at least now I have a nice clean fridge to show for my efforts.
I would like to add that the temperature rating on both thermostats is L8.9-16.7C. Converting to fahrenheit, that's 48.02-62.06.
Sorry to hear about the incorrect information you were provided before you found this video. We specifically made this video because we had our own customers contacting us thinking their new defrost thermostat was bad when it actually was just bad information that was provided to them on how to test the part. If the refrigerator still doesn't cool down, it is sounding like you may have a refrigerant leak in the sealed system of the refrigerator.
@@PartsDr Thank you for your reply. Fortunately, my fridge is cooling down as I hoped. I really appreciate your thorough video.
Great video! Very helpful in explaining the part #'s on the defrost thermostat! I have a defrost thermostat L47-22F 240386402 on an electrolux bottom freezer fridge (Model #EW28BS71IS9) and the top part is popped off partially like you show in the video. Again, that was very helpful explanation on why that happened! The heater element tests fine and hopefully the control board will be okay because it's hard to find details on this fridge! Thanks again for such a helpful video. :)
Awesome! Glad you found it helpful 😀
Great video. Thank a lot for explaining so clearly.
Glad you found it helpful! =)
Great video, i will be ordering my part tomorrow!
Thank you!!
I've replaced many defrost thermostats that have had a blown top, but never really knew how to test them. Thanks Martin Larsen
Glad we good help someone that has as much experience as you!
excellent video. simple and straight to the point
Thank you! 😎
Great video. I changed my thermostat refrigeraror, but the refrigerator is still working constantly. The refrigerator it's very clean below. So what could be the problem?
It is Possible that Your Defrost Timer or Switch is Stuck or Possibly Broken. @ the Top Right Corner of the "Fridge" there Should be a Plastic Set Screw, You can turn the Set Screw with a Flat Head Screw Driver. If I am not mistaken you can Turn the Screw "Gently" Clockwise until the Fridge Stops Running. If the Fridge does not Start Running After You shut it Manually, Then there most likely can be a Problem with Your Defrost Switch.
Ryan, my MAN! great video
Thanks!
Great info,thanks
Next level!!
Thanks! 👊
Very clear. Thanks.
We are glad you found it helpful! 🙂
good lesson...tq for sharing..
+MrTonyshit80 You're welcome!
Bimetal sometimes pass the continuity test , but the contacts dont hold when the heater comes on, so the continuity test is not 100% reliable, I learn with experience whenever I replace the timer or heater I also replace the bi metal tio avoid recalls
Yes, this is good advice. We recommend the same thing.
Exactamente, así pasa. Se puede ver en buen estado el termostato de descongelamiento, pero es mejor hacer una prueba con la carga ( resistencia, foco,etc,) para ver si logra encenderlos, obvio también con su respectiva medición del voltaje que de a su salida.
Saludos desde Sinaloa, México
Thanks for the bulge explanation. Now I know what to replace!!!
We are glad to hear this helped you find the problem with your refrigerator!
Awesome video.. I understand the 55 degrees or higher there is no continuity. This is the case where the heater element has been on for several minutes and the thermostat opens to cut off the heater. I also understand the low end number which is the typical case where the defrost timer kicks in and the thermostat is like way down near zero or better degrees and the circuit is closed so the heater is safe to turn on. What I don't understand is what's going on with continuity in the middle range between 20 and 55 degrees? I am assuming the thermostat is closed allowing the heater to work until 55 degrees is reached. So why the 20 degree figure? Why not just have one figure - open above 55 and closed below 55 degrees?? Thanks for explaining. Great video once again
Great question! It is because the manufacture does not want the thermostat to open and close at the same temperature. What happens in the middle depends on whether the thermostat is in an open or closed state. For instance with the numbers you provided, if the thermostat is at 37F it could be opened or closed. If the thermostat has already down to 20F or colder and it is closed and it has warmed up to 37F then it would be closed because it hasn't warmed up to the 55F to open. If the thermostat has opened by warming up above 55F, then the thermostat cooled down to 37f, it would still be open at 37F because it hasn't reached the closing temperature of 20F.
Thanks for the great reply totally explained it well. I had an interesting way of checking my heater defrost element sticking my Fluke temperature probe in a screw hole down near the heater element which allowed me to see the temperature go up to 108° verifying that the heater cycle was working correctly without taking off the entire panel which is a real pain in my GE fridge. Love those Fluke instruments Thank you
@@PartsDr this reply really helped....but still need a bit of clarification. I have 25-47F Bimetal Tstat,connected to my Ohm meter from below freezing warming up it switches from continuity to no continuity right around 25 F (according to my digital temp sensor tool )so from closed to open circuit as temp hits to 25. Then it will stay open if it goes up and past 47F and not close the circuit again until it drops past 47?
@@wyocoyotewyocoyote9007 Most bimetal defrost thermostats that we have seen open at the higher temp rating and close at the colder temp rating. So if yours worked that way it would open at 47F and close at 25F. These are general rules and each manufacturer can do things differently if they want to. From the results you got it sounds like yours opens at 25F and closes at 47F and should be just fine as long as it works that way consistently.
I have a Sears Kenmore Fridge with Freezer on top model# 253.6480240C. Found that food was partially defrosted in freezer. The freezer temp is only 32F and the fridge temp is only 48F. I used a screwdriver to manually advance the defrost timer and that did turn on/off the the sound of what I believe to be the compressor as well as the freezer fan. Turning the fridge temperature control knob from lowest setting (left) to highest setting (right) also turns on and off the same sound. I clamped my multimeter on to the red wire near the compressor and it read ~ 1.6 amps when I believe the compressor is running. The freezer fan is definitely rotating as cold air is being pushed out of the freezer vents. I removed the freezer evaporator cover and confirmed the fan is rotating. There was a 3/4 x 2" chunk of ice on the tube (that does *not* have the thermostat attached to it) right near the fins of the evaporator, otherwise, no real icing in the freezer. The defrost heater element has continuity. I am suspecting the defrost thermostat. I don't want to cut the wires just to test unless I'm on the right track. Is this the next likely culpret that should be tested? Any advice?
Hi Jeff, it sounds like you probably have a refrigerant leak. Usually if you are only getting a small section of the evaporator coil that gets frost/ice on it, that is and indicator that there is a leak in the sealed system. This type of repair is expensive and must be done by a professional so it might be better to replace the refrigerator.
Thank you so much for your quick reply, even though it doesn't sound good for me :-) Given the likelihood of what's wrong, would it be beneficial to cut the thermostat and test it on the off chance that it is stuck on which would cause the defrost element to be on more than it should driving up the temperature inside the freezer/fridge somewhat? Or would it not work that way or have that effect? Thinking of a last ditch effort?
I cut out the thermostat and checked for continuity >47F and it was open as expected. I put it in a working freezer for a few hours and just checked it and it was closed, as expected for
The only thing we are aware of that can cause that type of problem is a sealed system problem. Unfortunately you will probably have to replace the refrigerator.
Thanks, we did buy one.
Very good 👍
Thanks 🙂
Very good information bro
Thanks!
Thanks! This was exactly what was wrong with my Kenmore.
Great to hear!
Excellent. Thank you.
Great teaching, Thanks for sharing. I have one question. The replacement of the defrost thermostat is to be with the exact temperature range or can be a tolerance? The one than my freezer uses is FR-9 N42-21
We can only recommend to use the exact replacement. The issue with using the wrong temperature rating is that it could be a fire hazard or cause the defrost system to not work properly.
@@PartsDr Understood. Thanks for your quick response.
Hi Thanks for being here :). I just put in a defrost heater. It read 26 ohms before I put it in. When it came on the the defrost cycle. I could see through the vents it was glowing red. Then a few minutes later it turned off. Should I expect to see a "Glow". Thank you
On some refrigerators the defrost heater will glow orange/red during the defrost cycle.
Great video 😊
Thanks 😍
Thank You!
We are glad you found it helpful!
Very good
Thank you!
good explanation!
+james mullis Great! We are glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for your videos AND advice!
You're welcome!!
Now I do not know what is wrong with the refrigerator. After watching several videos. Your was the first one I have found that explained to take the first number and subtract the second to find the where it kicks off and on. I was screwing around with ice water and all I did was make a mess. So I put the thermostats in a freezer and found the one I had was good. I bought 3 new ones thinking the first new one was bad. Now I have 4 good ones and still have No idea as to why the side by side is freezing up. I know the heater works, The refrigerator I have has the electronic box inside, not the defrost type you can turn the screw to get it to kick on. I found that if you hit the light switch 5 or 6 time quickly it will go into defrost mode, that is how I got burned. I did not feel any heat off of it, so I got brave/stupid and touched it. A few moments later I could hear water steaming off of it.
Great video thanks
We are glad you found it helpful!
verry good info.
We are glad you found it helpful! 🙂
Good video I like it
Thanks!
Great video. I replaced both the defrost timer and defroster thermostat on my Hotpoint freezer refrigerator with the freezer located on top. Originally the refrigerator is not cooling. Now the refrigerator and freezer are working fine but I constantly hear the fan on and the back of the refrigerated which means they're refrigerated is not turning off. Any suggestions please help
The fans are controlled by the cold control thermostat. First set the temp controls to the middle factory settings. Then wait 24 hours; opening the doors as little as possible. Next, check to make sure the refrigerator and freezer are cooling to the proper temps (37F Fridge section, 0 Freezer section). If you aren't getting those results then the cold control thermostat is most likely bad and needs to be replaced.
I use dust off held upside down to close them, because most time you go into a house with only one working fridge/freezer.
That is a great idea! Thanks for the tip!
@@PartsDr Any time.
Wow !!! Amazing video , you guys rock !!!
Glad you found it helpful 😁
I have been sweating over my used "patio fridge" (Amana) for a couple of weekends now. The evaporator fan did not work with the door open, but when I pulled it out it tested fine. Then I started looking at the defrost thermostat, and was just fixing to dangle it in a cup of ice water. Noticed that it was bulged like in your video, so I will order one and see if that was the problem. My other plan was to buy a different fridge from Craigslist.
Hi Russ,
It sounds like replacing the defrost thermostat should probably take care of your problem.
thanks
You're welcome!
Very good 👍 job
great video
Thank you super helpful i have one question what if the thermostat is between the 55 and -15 should there be continuity or not? Thank you for any help
It would depend on the temperature of the thermostat.
Sir very nice video
Hi how are you..sir my refrigerator not automatic off I did change timer and biometal..but not automatic off..what problem sir guide me I'm very upset about refrigerator....
thx...good job!
Tanglewood Living You're welcome! Thank you!
great video!!! freezing it instead of cold water!!!
Just what my problem is. I was not sure until I watched this video.
Nice! Glad you figured it out!
Awesome!
Thanks!
GE IC360NMARH Bottom freezer. The original Evap Thermodisc L65 - 20F while its replacement WR50X10030 L140-30F. Does not seem that these sames parts could operate the same in the freezer and be a suitable replacement. Can i expect the new part to operate satisfactorily? Glad i found your site on TH-cam.
We can think of a few possible reasons the new and old thermostats would have such different temperature ratings.
1. Someone replaced the thermostat at some point in time with something other than the OEM part.
2. GE made a design change to the part.
3. GE has the wrong part number listed for your model refrigerator.
It might be best for you to contact GE directly to see if they can clarify what the correct temperature rating for this part should be on your refrigerator. Our records indicate WR50X10030 should be L140-30F.
@@PartsDrfor L140-30F, what is the closing temp? Thanks
@@romiep9557 It should be 110F. Please reference our other video that goes more in depth on these high limit defrost thermostats here: th-cam.com/video/i4SNEgPoUMY/w-d-xo.html
Wow the info I was looking for! I know this isn't a forum but just to get a clear understanding. My thermostat is rated at 14.4 - 22.2C. So no continuity at room temp (approx 70F) then threw the thermostat in the freezer which was reading at at 0C. Checked and I had continuity, this means I have a bad thermostat?
It sounds like it is working properly from your test results. This thermostat should open after warming up to 58F and close when it cools down to -14F.
@@PartsDr Thanks I made a mistake on the conversion. Mistaking C for F. I believe you are right, thermostat is okay. Do you have any videos on how to test my defrost adapter controller?
My freezer has black dirt in it and after that my fridge stopped working well after some weeks. Is black dirt that suddenly appeared a symptom of a bad defrost thermostat like it blew out?
Muchas gracias
You're welcome!
Thanks.... good video 👍💪
😁
strong compressor; fridge temp is stable. freezer occasionally ruins food. fan runs, but rarely.
Intermittent problems like these are really tricky to troubleshoot. You usually have to wait for it to act up then start your diagnostics.
Hi can i ask a question about my mini samsung ref. I left my ref for 3months with doors open slightly when i came back and turn it on the compressor is just humming but no fan and not freezing, what may be the problem? Thanks
Thank you for the excellent video.. as usual. My thermostat has 100% continuity..doesn't that mean that it's in constant defrost mode? However the evaporator still ices up while my heater, sensor and fan are fine thanks to your excellent testing videos. Is it possible that although the defroster shows constant continuity, that it's just totally bad and the control board is not getting any signal to turn on the heater(even tho as mentioned) the heater should be on constantly....thank u in advance for any reply...
It sounds like your defrost thermostat is probably a high limit safety thermostat. It only cuts out if the evaporator coil gets too hot to prevent a fire.
@@PartsDrthanks so much for quickly replying.... I'm not sure..i immersed it in a cup of my faucet hot water 140° left it in fir 10min n still had continuity...
@@jags132section Some safety thermostats have an opening temperature over 140F.
i have watched a bunch of your videos while i diagnose my fridge during covid days. but i want to buy some parts from you but you don't ship to canada. thanks for your videos. very helpful.
We are glad we could help 🙂
The defrost thermostat for my kenmore fridge has this sequence of characters on it. L8.9-16.7C. Converting to Fahrenheit it comes to L48.02-62.06F. This seems backwards in that the first number is lower than the second number and the close temperature calculates to -14.04F. What is wrong here?
That is correct. The closing temp can be very cold because it is attached to the evaporator coil which gets cold enough to close the thermostat.
nice information
I’m on my second thermostat that reads continuity no matter if it’s been in the freezer or straight out of the package in a 72 degree home
It sounds like you might be testing a high limit defrost thermostat. We have a video that goes over those here: th-cam.com/video/i4SNEgPoUMY/w-d-xo.html
@@PartsDr that’s was the issue. I watched that video earlier, but I didn’t watch long enough to see where you covered the high limit thermostat. Thanks!
Thanku sir
You're welcome!
I was having the symptoms of a broken thermostat - icy coils and warm refrigerator. I noticed the defrost thermostat was popped up like in the video, but it does have continuity when cold. I went ahead and replaced it. Hoping it solves the problem, but I’m not sure if it will.
Our guess is that it will fix your problem. Either way, if it is popped up, it needs to be replaced.
Follow-up a month later - it does appear that replacing the thermostat fixed my refrigerator.
@@tylerdowns8191 That is great!
I just replaced mine
Seems the old device never actually broke continuity-so it ever actually shut off…I’m hopeful this resolved our issue…which is a form of thermal runaway..refrigerator gets cold, which triggered the sensor, so it caused the refrigerator to defrost-and because it never fully turned off the refrigerator was in a constant loop…
Let us know if it ends up fixing the issue.
It did not resolve the issue
My refrigerator side is now over 50 degrees
Now perhaps I’ll try the defrost timer…
Any idea where it’s located on
Whirlpool Refrigerator Model ED5VHEXVB04?
I’ve already tested the thermostat…
Looking on line, I found a site, and it appears this model doesn’t have the timer, just a board…
@@1jefreys Your model refrigerator uses a defrost control board in place of a defrost timer. It should be located in the front top right corner in the area where the temperature controls are located. This is the part here: partsdr.com/part/w10366605-defrost-control-board?model=ED5VHEXVB04
My thermostat says LT40-30F. That means according to your video that that it would open at 40 and then close at 10. This can't be right. My new and old thermostat work the same: they are closed at any temperature below about 95 or higher and open above 95 or higher. Neither one open up till they get heated up with a hair dryer.
interesting, so does the bulb itself say L95 0F ? And where is the bulb location...sounds like close to the heat element. On my side by side, the limiter bulb is above the coil some inches, and the numbers are L48 15F. Mine stays closed then 33f and colder, then opens at 48f. it tested good out of the box, although i dont know exactness of the opening temp, its 75 in the house and after several minutes leaving in a good freezer i felt it open, unless the LT means something diffeerent.... but i can say that 30C is 86 F, and 40C is 104F, Sometimes they're written in Celsius. if written in celsius, then it would close at 64 F. There does seem to be a lot of differences in temps these bulbs i didnt know about,,,, good luck,but I'd make sure its an F or a C. My original is in C, and new arrival is in F
im sorry, i see where you already gave the numbers on the bulb. I did notice that it took a while for the bulb to swith or close when i tested it. For test of my new bulb I hung it over the cold moving air right after the fan motor. A thermometer i placed there read 0. it may haave taken longer because the bulb itself was not clipped to anything and so the metal part of bulb was not getting a direct contact read which might take longer. im not sure on that.
what is the common problem of haire refrigerator not working on the motor compressor but the led light only flashing model 663w thanks
would a faulty thermol fuse in the freezer compartment affect the function of refrigerator side is there any link between the two. on the samsung RS21 JGRS model. i have had a brand new kit put on. still having defrost problem on fridge side. rechecked all the components for faults, they all good. Have been told it could be the pcb board not letting the heaters stay on long enough. is there anyway of checking my pcb board myself.
The thermostat and the heating element are good however the cooling problem persists. What else could it be ? Thanks
How do you test it if the closing temperature is 20 degrees Fahrenheit? Ice water is not enough to lower it to 20 F.
You will need to put it in a working freezer to get it down below 20F.
Good video!!
FIREMAN We are glad you found it helpful!
Hi there. My current defrost thermostat states L175 - 20F. What would the opening and closing temperatures be with those figures? I don't think that 175 degrees would be the opening temp LOL! ;O). Thx for the great video!
Th defrost thermostats with a higher opening temperatures like yours are a safety device in case the main control board and temperature sensor don't properly regulate the temperatures on their own.
Could a bad thermostat cause a freezer to be too cold if coils are frozen? My fridge temp is eight on, freezer runs minus 10 degrees F. Damper works fine. Kitchenaid side by side.
No, from our experience the opposite happens when the defrost thermostat fails. The evap coils frosts up and the air stops circulating which causes things to start to warm up.
@@PartsDr Thanks for the quick reply. So, with the damper control working I'm left with either freezer thermistor, fridge thermistor or control board?
@@dr.emilschaffhausen4683 It sounds like you are on the right track of narrowing down the problem.
Nice video clip. So - after watching this video - this device is electrically connected in series with the heating element right? So if the temperature gets above a certain temperature ----- then the device becomes an open circuit ------ which prevents any more heating until the next defrost cycle occurs, right?
Yes that is correct!
@@PartsDr Thanks very much!!!
Is this the only way to test the defrost thermostat? Can you diagnose via the control panel?
This is the only accurate way to test the defrost thermostat.
my multimeter in the continuity setting showed 001 after the thermostat was in the freezer for a few minutes. The same reading as when I touch the probes together. Is this saying that the thermostat is good?
That sounds like a good reading from what you are describing. You could let it warm up to room temperature to verify that it opens up when it warms up.
great video and very educational. My kenmore side by side fridge is in the garage and the evaporator fan keeps running. I've done the diagnostic checks to include forcing the heater to come on. The whole time I was in diagnostic mode, the evaporator fan was on. It seems like the thermostat is the problem but I can't be sure until I open it up and inspect the thermostat. What else do you think might be the problem?
What is the model number of the refrigerator?
@@PartsDr 10656573400
@@carlostrejo8699 The fan motor is probably controlled by one of the control boards on your refrigerator. It could run constantly if it isn't cooling cold enough.
@@PartsDr well....that's the peculiar thing, it is cooling. I thought the temp control was set too low thinking it might be trying to reach that temp that it can't so I raised it a couple of degrees. Factory set is 37F, it was set at 33. There is frost on the bottom of the back panel in the freezer and that's why I think it might be the thermostat. I'm open to more advice. thanks
is there a way to determine inside temperature without a heat gun?
Can the wires of the thermostat be put in any direction? Meaning, is it terminal specific? + -
They can be hooked up in either direction, they do not have polarity with a plus or minus.
Hi, what is the diagnosis if: Defrost heater, defrost thermostat and timer also work but the fresh food section does not get cold air due to ice build up, not on the evaporator (freezer section), but at around the freezer openings? Thank you
Hi Kervin, we have seen this caused by a bad door gasket that is leaking air, a door getting left open, and a clogged/iced up defrost drain.
Parts Dr thanks for replying! I inspected the gaskets as well and they seemed to be somewhat bent at corners external to the doors. Ill check internal condition. Would you recommend changing out gaskets also?
If you can see where air is leaking past the gasket(s) then they should be replaced. Have you tried just melting the ice to see if it comes back on its own?
Yes, I have melted the ice multiple times with warm water. Ice slowly builds back up particularly near the opening at the fresh food section where air from the freezer enters. Right now my defrost system seems to be working as I can hear the compressor shut down (and previously verified the heater works). I now have new door gaskets that I'll swap this weekend. In the mean time, how bad is access to the defrost drain? That's next on my check list. Thanks for your help, again.
@Parts Dr
Hi, first of all wish u a merry christmas and tks for this video.
2nd is the defrost thermostat stops the compressor and the fan on defrost cycle only or also when the ice is reachs its limit in the freezer too? My fridge is whirlpool model #3VET16GKBW00.
I wld really appreciate ur answer 🙏
Hi, I have a Ge double door, compressor works, Freezer fan works, the cooling fan in the back works
the freezer is cool, and the fredge side is bearley cool.
What should I do ? thanks
I wanted to ask you my closed is L60-32= 28 degrees for a closed circuit. Wr50x10090 is only putting out 2.7 of resistance when I check. I noticed yours was like 6.5. Is 2.2-2.7 at like 18degree ok? I also checked the heater element it was like 40-50 ohms. I have the G.E. GBSC0HCXCRBB
Yes that is a good reading. We would recommend to replace the defrost control board PD00023371 (WR55X10837) and the defrost thermostat PD00023359 (WR50X10090) at the same time. Also make sure to manually fully defrost the evaporator coil before turning the refrigerator back on.
partsdr.com/part/wr55x10837-control-board/#model-GBSC0HCXCRBB
partsdr.com/part/wr50x10090-defrost-thermostat/#model-GBSC0HCXCRBB
Hello from Greece I have a question.
I have indesit ban 33 ND p and after a sort power down the 2 leds start blikin after few hours and after this no work properly I open the back of freezer and I see a lot ice if I check what you say maybe I find the problem? The fun works but no cool like the past. I try what you suggest and I hope to solve the problem.
I am looking to get some type of training in small appliance repair. I am a certified HVAC Tech but I want to change careers. Any suggestion?
Ha he sounds like that dude on Better Call Saul. The one who the the flamed our H2 with spinners.
Is defrost thermostat interchangeable, C to F or vice versa? For example, my original defrost thermostat uses F, if I replace with new one with C, will it still work? Or I have the same version F?
I have replaced start relay, capacitor, defrost thermostat and defrost sensor
Added new freon. My Kenmore bottom freezer refrigerator still does not work. The temperature is 57 F for the fridge, 27F for the freezer after 1 1/2 days.
As long as the temperature rating is the same, it doesn't matter if the temperature is listed in Fahrenheit or Celcius.
I have open the component up in the freezer n what see is evepartor full of ice
One more this model when make defrost they make a big noise like someone try to smash a door you know my wife tells me they have a long time to hear this function
Is there any problem with the wires? The original has orange and brown same size length, the new one yellow short and orange large?
As long as the temperature rating is correct and it mounts the same as the original, the color of the wires does not matter. Either wire can connect to either location.
Hello,can you help me ?I bought used viking VCFF036SS fridge for repair.
I opened the back panel and I saw the smoke pipe left side of compressor have small hole and the right side of the compressor the tiny pipe it's broken, when I contacted the fridge the fan turn on ,the light turn on and that it.
I think the fridge have another problem...
What I have to do?
Or it's better to sale for parts etc..
What I have to do?
Thank you!
Could either of these items stop the defrost timer from advancing.
No, not that we are aware of.
If the descriptions says L55-35F what is happening between 55 and 20 ? is it partly opened/closed? What does that mean?
I think your question was answered in this previous comment here: th-cam.com/video/7kcvlnW8QYo/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgjZLaZ4FiJM6HgCoAEC
I have a kelvinator chest frezzer comp is running but not frezzeing what wrong thx you
It could be a bad compressor or sealed system leak which is probably not worth repairing.
Here’s a ? For you, my freezer will run but when it shuts off it will not come back on and I get a high temp alarm. Is that caused by the defrost thermostat, or the regular thermostat? I thought it was the capacitor and control on compressor and replaced those, though tho old capacitor checked okay. What’s my problem?
That type of problem wouldn't be caused by a bad defrost thermostat from our experience. It could be caused by a bad cold control thermostat.
My refrigerator is warm ( side by side fridge/freezer) my freezer isn't freezing food anymore what could that be?
Hello dear sir l serviced freezer its temprature reading is -18 to -26 .its full cover with ice so i seviced what it is not show proper temprature -18 to -26.it show only -16. what is fault in this machine.
Singh ji did you defrost the ice first?
Our Samsung French Door Refrigerator bottom freezer bimetal defrost thermostat doesn't seem to have any "L" numbers, only 100 10 and 60 / 40. What do those numbers mean? Also, at room temperature it had a continuous beep when we put it on the ohm meter. We're trying to figure out why the bottom freezer fluctuates in temperature between 0 degrees and even up to 30 degrees. Ice cream is soft and ice is slippery.
The bi-metal thermostat on Samsung refrigerators is usually a high limit safety that only kicks in if the main control board or temperature sensor fails. It will usually have an opening temperature of 100F+.
Quick question. How would you interpret a bimetal/thermodisc labeled F42-32F? Does it work differently as in closed when above 42 degrees and stays closed then cuts open at 10 degrees? This part is wired in series with a cold control thermostat, not a defrost heater.
That should open at 42F and close at 10F. Sometimes a bi-metal thermostat is used to turn a fan motor on/off at a certain temperature.
Thanks for the reply. I thought this too but if it opens back up at 42*F then the unit wouldn’t cool if wired in series with a cold control. This bimetal has specs different than most fridge bimetals. Would you like to take a look at this GE fridge wiring diagram and see if you can make sense of it’s operation? It has no actual defrost circuit and instead lets frost thaw while the thermostat & bimetal are open.
imgur.com/a/8IINMov