+1 on the microfiber. Great for waxing your car, not great for polishing a brand new finish. That guitar came out beautiful-you do nice work, and good karma to you for sharing your expertise so freely!
Damn That's Sweet Started watching your channel Doing the black Tele with the two moons I was impressed with it But this is Awesomeness at its best TFS Enjoyed
Oh look at the muscled up Canadian wearing his "just lil too tight" T-shirt, making sure he uses his forearm to press that leveling beam down on to the sand paper so we get a good look at his bicep... I hate you Brad..... Lol... I am glad you referenced that spot on the left that was looking kind of rough. I had a feeling that what we were more seeing was like the wood grain under the polish and not the actual top part of the polished surface. I had one I was polishing up and from the side view there was a spot like that and Oh did it drive me crazy!! I kept polishing and polishing and it just would not go away. Finally I moved it out of the light a little and that's what made me realize what I was actually looking at. AHA! You solved another issue I had with a different guitar. I went to polish it and it just seemed that no matter what I did it just would not polish up nice and shiny. I could not figure out what was it's problem, then you addressed the issue of going after a poly finish after it has set for about a week, yup, the guitar I was having the issue with had actually sat for about 3 weeks maybe a full month before I went at it. Now I know not to do that again!! Thanks for that tip Brad!! Microfiber rags on a polishing job - Well let me ask you something Mr. muscle bound Canadian, then why do so many polishing kits include a microfiber cloth? Let me tell you my experiences with microfiber rags and cloths, they scratch the hell out of a guitar finish!! I found some black cloths from Dunlop (Dunlop 5430 guitar finish cloth) on Amazon so I ordered that and it works great!! Now i am talking about just when you polish your guitar on a regular basis, not polishing one after refinishing it. I liked the cloth so much I ordered another one lol. I use a blue cloth that is supposed to be all cotton but I am pretty sure it is microfiber as well to apply the polish, or I will use a polishing sponge applicator, then once it dries to a haze I polish it with the Dunlop cloth and it sure looks pretty and scratch free. So I am with you, Just say no to the microfiber material when you want a scratch free completed job. I really like the back of this guitar for some reason lol, the front looks awesome as well but that back has the right hue to it and this is from someone who does not like gold as a color, I will take any gold metal objects you might want to give me though lol. It has that bronze/copper tone to it that with the wood makes it look so smooth and like a creamy look to it as well.
Yeah that spot on the left didn’t even show up when I was looking at it, but there it is in the footage haha. I use microfiber to wipe off the excess polish when I’m working with poly, but yeah, it can scratch. I guess it can be used for the first compounding work, much like a wool pad. I’ve heard so many stories about it screwing up polish jobs though...
@@BradAngove Yeah that's what I usually use any microfiber for, wiping the polish on, if I am not getting after it that is, or removing excess or like some dust, but I apply very little pressure!
Hey Brad. Could you please tell me what color Hex Logic pads you would suggest getting for using with a spray max 2x clear coat. I also use eagle abrasives assilex and buflex sanding paper for the dry sanding and McGuire's compound. I see you used the green and black for your application. And would you recommend using a polish after the compound as well for what I explained?
Hi Daniel, thank you for that. Im not taking on commission work right now except for custom pickguards, which aren’t discussed in this particular series.
Hi! Do you know if it's possible to polish lacquered wood with a polishing compound for plastic? I've got those micro-meshes but could not find a polish for wood. I also wonder if I need to sand out the true oil from the fretboard before lacquering it, or lacquer will stick to the wood even with some oil in it?
I just finished staining this exact kit, I was going to use the spraymaxx 2k poly. Will that fill in the pores better than the lacquer? Or will i need to let dry, sand, and spray again like you did, before I polish it? If so, would I be able to do that the same day, since the can will only last a day or two? Thanks for any reply, you have helped me tremendously with my build and you don't even know it!
It will fill a bit better, but not completely. It would still need a couple sprays at least. You’re better off filing the grain first if you want it totally smoothed out. You need to give it about 24 hours before you sand and recoat.
@@BradAngove Hello, I was thinking that it would be a smoother transition from one piece of sand paper to the other, at the place where you join the two pieces. And I would also think it would be good to make sure there is a little gap there, so that the buildup has somewhere to go and not produce scratches. In any event, I really like your work.
G'day Brad. Love leveling idea with the spray adhesive. I use 450 mm aluminum 25x25 square for my leveling with thin double sided tape. That might be a better option cheers I will steal That idea. As always great work.
Hey Brad, incredible work! You're really making me want to refinish my guitar. However, what's holding me back is the wiring and the electronics, those things can be super risky, especially for a teenager like me. I was wondering if I could just mask up all of the parts that i don't want my paint on (Pick up, switch, tone volume knob, etc...) and start my painting? Thank you!
Rather than doing that and having to try to paint around that stuff, just remove the knob and undo the nuts and push the electronics back into the cavities. Then tape off the holes from the inside and cover the cavity. No soldering etc. involved. Same for the output jack and switch. For the pickups, remove the guard or mounting ring and tape off the pickup itself. Then tape it into the cavity.
Years ago I restored and painted muscle cars as a home hobbyist. I have since sold all of that equipment, especially the air tools, guns etc. I am going to do a few kit guitars and plan on using many of the products you recommend. I have a small compressor that I think will keep up with a small paint gun and guitar work but I think I will try rattle cans in my first build just to get a feel for it. I'm curious if you have links to non pneumatic polishers, buffers etc that I could add to my tool box? Thanks, great work by the way.
If you take a look in the amazon link in the description, there’s an electric polisher there that I use frequently, particularly on slightly larger projects. It’s also good for guitars of course. I use it with the replacement pads that I demonstrated in this video instead of the foam pad that it comes with.
Just watched the last video of the mohawk buffying for this guitar. I was wondering if you noticed a need to wait the 7 days to buff out the product like it is recommended on the can. It's been 4 days I just wanna get my guitar back together lol. That's a very good looking guitar.
Hi Tim. The reason we wait is to avoid having the paint continue to shrink after it's polished, thus messing it up. It's a precautionary thing, so it would be difficult to notice the need for it per se.
I try to avoid that if at all possible, but when necessary I will use a flexible sanding block or eraser to sand the sides and simply use a smaller polishing disc.
I noticed you did not show any finishing details for the edges. In particular I would be curious to know what is the proper sanding direction as I have had trouble in the past mostly trying to sand both the raw wood and the finish along the top and bottom edges which is more like end grain.
I don’t sand my edge finish unless there is something wrong with it. For a space that size I generally leave it. If I am sanding it, I either go in by hand or use a flexible sanding block type item. I have seen people use large erasers as sanding blocks for that before.
Late to the party here. What are you using to polish inside the curve of the "horn"? Does your 3" polish pad get in there or do you just do it by hand? Thanks.
Brad, the guitar looks great. The top does not appear to be "flat", is this true. I am working on a Tele top with a quilted maple veneer, I am new to veneer, I have flattened and glued it to my blank. It still has tiny ripples or bumps that are just part of the wood. I am asking because of the final finish, how can this become a flat finish by just spraying. I would think you cannot sand it flat before finishing or you would sand through the veneer. So, I am curious as to what that top really looks like, hard to tell from the camera. Any tips on moving forward with mine. Is a Tung oil finish a better way to go? Thanks in advance.
@@BradAngove yes, thanks for the reply. I am a bit bummed, I carved the body out on my CNC Saturday. Somewhere between getting the project setup in the software and starting the carve, the whole body moved about a 1/4 inch in the software. Did not notice until the end, the bookmatched veneer is now off center, cannot use it as is.
@@BradAngove Interesting thoughts, my brain has been spinning the last couple days, need to fix a couple tear spots in the veneer due to the routing, most will be covered by a minimal pickguard I have designed for a previous guitar, then take some sort of action and move forward.
Mr. Bread thank you for your reply I watch all of your videos everything I'm learning is from watching you in a spray can when I get it finished I want to show you the things that you've taught me thank you for your channel
I like to use the EZ vinyl sealer from Mohawk. Although, Mohawk says not to use it with their own poly. I’ve never had any problems with the combination and I use it frequently.
thanks so much for the replies Brad, I went with the solarez I cant believe it's not lacquer sealer/filler since they say there is no shrinkage. I've watched a ton of your videos and you have inspired me (and others) to do our first kits. I'm excited and addicted now! If mine turns out half as good as yours do I will be very pleased.. thanks so much.
@@BradAngove Oh wow, I wish I would've seen this a day earlier! I was looking at that and didn't get it because of that reason. I will use that in future builds then. I went with solarez I cant believe its not lacquer sealer/filler. Thanks so much for inspiring me to do my first build! It's because of you that I am now completely addicted!
@@markdalton293 Google is your friend...Those specs are all over the internet. Then I suggest using a reputable Licensed Fender dealer to buy a neck from. If your neck pocket is correct. Places like Warmoth, WD music or even The Stratosphere on ebay.
So, you listen to "One Direction" while you hand sand? What's your favorite One Direction song, Brad? 😂 Also, get yourself a fitness club membership so you can look more presentable to your viewers.😜 Guitar body looks great man!👍👍
Factory finish is fine. Good vid for repair tips.
The polish at the end really did it.
I'm glad to see you use Ash. It's a popular inexpensive wood that can have rather nice grain yet affordable.
Very Niccce, Bradley! ... I dig that semi gold finish on the back! Likd 28
Thanks Soda!
You crack me up! So far my favourite build so far mate looks absolutely stunning....now get it finished.
Thanks Stu. Almost done!
@@BradAngove anytime mate grat year so far mate keep it up marra
Attractive finish, and microfiber definitely scratches
"level sanding tool - very straight forward" i see what you did there XD love the tele man
Haha thanks man.
@@BradAngove i call em as i see em. i know all that hand work polishing is time consuming . love the content man
Looks so good. That was a cool tip of using the air compressor to clean the sander! Dying to try 2k at some point.
It’s hardcore stuff. Gotta love it haha.
+1 on the microfiber. Great for waxing your car, not great for polishing a brand new finish.
That guitar came out beautiful-you do nice work, and good karma to you for sharing your expertise so freely!
Thank you.
Gorgeous!
Thank you sir!
This is going to look so good when it's a completed guitar.
I hope so haha.
By the way thanks for the full length video .
Damn That's Sweet
Started watching your channel
Doing the black Tele with the two moons I was impressed with it
But this is Awesomeness at its best TFS Enjoyed
Glad you enjoyed it.
Great job as always Brad & love the look you got on this !!
Thanks Terry!
Great job buddy!, andvi couldnt agree with you more about buffing with microfibre, yes they do scratch i unfortunatly learned that as well.
It’s unfortunate how often that happens to people.
Oh look at the muscled up Canadian wearing his "just lil too tight" T-shirt, making sure he uses his forearm to press that leveling beam down on to the sand paper so we get a good look at his bicep... I hate you Brad..... Lol...
I am glad you referenced that spot on the left that was looking kind of rough. I had a feeling that what we were more seeing was like the wood grain under the polish and not the actual top part of the polished surface. I had one I was polishing up and from the side view there was a spot like that and Oh did it drive me crazy!! I kept polishing and polishing and it just would not go away. Finally I moved it out of the light a little and that's what made me realize what I was actually looking at. AHA! You solved another issue I had with a different guitar. I went to polish it and it just seemed that no matter what I did it just would not polish up nice and shiny. I could not figure out what was it's problem, then you addressed the issue of going after a poly finish after it has set for about a week, yup, the guitar I was having the issue with had actually sat for about 3 weeks maybe a full month before I went at it. Now I know not to do that again!! Thanks for that tip Brad!!
Microfiber rags on a polishing job - Well let me ask you something Mr. muscle bound Canadian, then why do so many polishing kits include a microfiber cloth? Let me tell you my experiences with microfiber rags and cloths, they scratch the hell out of a guitar finish!! I found some black cloths from Dunlop (Dunlop 5430 guitar finish cloth) on Amazon so I ordered that and it works great!! Now i am talking about just when you polish your guitar on a regular basis, not polishing one after refinishing it. I liked the cloth so much I ordered another one lol. I use a blue cloth that is supposed to be all cotton but I am pretty sure it is microfiber as well to apply the polish, or I will use a polishing sponge applicator, then once it dries to a haze I polish it with the Dunlop cloth and it sure looks pretty and scratch free. So I am with you, Just say no to the microfiber material when you want a scratch free completed job. I really like the back of this guitar for some reason lol, the front looks awesome as well but that back has the right hue to it and this is from someone who does not like gold as a color, I will take any gold metal objects you might want to give me though lol. It has that bronze/copper tone to it that with the wood makes it look so smooth and like a creamy look to it as well.
Yeah that spot on the left didn’t even show up when I was looking at it, but there it is in the footage haha.
I use microfiber to wipe off the excess polish when I’m working with poly, but yeah, it can scratch. I guess it can be used for the first compounding work, much like a wool pad. I’ve heard so many stories about it screwing up polish jobs though...
@@BradAngove Yeah that's what I usually use any microfiber for, wiping the polish on, if I am not getting after it that is, or removing excess or like some dust, but I apply very little pressure!
Hey Brad. Could you please tell me what color Hex Logic pads you would suggest getting for using with a spray max 2x clear coat. I also use eagle abrasives assilex and buflex sanding paper for the dry sanding and McGuire's compound. I see you used the green and black for your application. And would you recommend using a polish after the compound as well for what I explained?
Yes, use a polish after the compound. I generally use white, green, and black the most.
Hi Brad. Thank you for all of the videos. Do you take custom orders for these kits?
Hi Daniel, thank you for that. Im not taking on commission work right now except for custom pickguards, which aren’t discussed in this particular series.
Hi! Do you know if it's possible to polish lacquered wood with a polishing compound for plastic? I've got those micro-meshes but could not find a polish for wood. I also wonder if I need to sand out the true oil from the fretboard before lacquering it, or lacquer will stick to the wood even with some oil in it?
Test out the polish first, but it will probably help. It just might not be perfect.
You should sand and clean the oil first.
I just finished staining this exact kit, I was going to use the spraymaxx 2k poly. Will that fill in the pores better than the lacquer? Or will i need to let dry, sand, and spray again like you did, before I polish it? If so, would I be able to do that the same day, since the can will only last a day or two? Thanks for any reply, you have helped me tremendously with my build and you don't even know it!
It will fill a bit better, but not completely. It would still need a couple sprays at least. You’re better off filing the grain first if you want it totally smoothed out. You need to give it about 24 hours before you sand and recoat.
Nice gloss finish Brad! Went with Tru Oil for mine. Very helpful vid. Might be time for a new build. I'm thinking Explorer...
Oooh, I do enjoy explorers.
@@BradAngove Yeah, had one as my first guitar YEARS ago. I really want one in my collection again.
I have a suggestion. You could join the 2 pieces of sand paper at a 45 degree angle, instead of right angle.
Intriguing. What would the purpose of that be?
@@BradAngove Hello, I was thinking that it would be a smoother transition from one piece of sand paper to the other, at the place where you join the two pieces. And I would also think it would be good to make sure there is a little gap there, so that the buildup has somewhere to go and not produce scratches. In any event, I really like your work.
Nice. That makes sense. Thanks for the suggestion.
G'day Brad. Love leveling idea with the spray adhesive. I use 450 mm aluminum 25x25 square for my leveling with thin double sided tape. That might be a better option cheers I will steal That idea. As always great work.
Thanks David
Hey Brad, incredible work! You're really making me want to refinish my guitar. However, what's holding me back is the wiring and the electronics, those things can be super risky, especially for a teenager like me. I was wondering if I could just mask up all of the parts that i don't want my paint on (Pick up, switch, tone volume knob, etc...) and start my painting?
Thank you!
Rather than doing that and having to try to paint around that stuff, just remove the knob and undo the nuts and push the electronics back into the cavities. Then tape off the holes from the inside and cover the cavity. No soldering etc. involved. Same for the output jack and switch. For the pickups, remove the guard or mounting ring and tape off the pickup itself. Then tape it into the cavity.
@@BradAngove thank you so much for replying!
Years ago I restored and painted muscle cars as a home hobbyist. I have since sold all of that equipment, especially the air tools, guns etc. I am going to do a few kit guitars and plan on using many of the products you recommend. I have a small compressor that I think will keep up with a small paint gun and guitar work but I think I will try rattle cans in my first build just to get a feel for it. I'm curious if you have links to non pneumatic polishers, buffers etc that I could add to my tool box? Thanks, great work by the way.
If you take a look in the amazon link in the description, there’s an electric polisher there that I use frequently, particularly on slightly larger projects. It’s also good for guitars of course. I use it with the replacement pads that I demonstrated in this video instead of the foam pad that it comes with.
It’s the porter-cable variable speed one in my “favorites” list.
Just watched the last video of the mohawk buffying for this guitar. I was wondering if you noticed a need to wait the 7 days to buff out the product like it is recommended on the can. It's been 4 days I just wanna get my guitar back together lol. That's a very good looking guitar.
Hi Tim. The reason we wait is to avoid having the paint continue to shrink after it's polished, thus messing it up. It's a precautionary thing, so it would be difficult to notice the need for it per se.
@@BradAngove thank you makes sense I appreciate it man.
Nice vid as always Brad. One question though, what did you use for the sides to sand and polish?
I try to avoid that if at all possible, but when necessary I will use a flexible sanding block or eraser to sand the sides and simply use a smaller polishing disc.
I noticed you did not show any finishing details for the edges. In particular I would be curious to know what is the proper sanding direction as I have had trouble in the past mostly trying to sand both the raw wood and the finish along the top and bottom edges which is more like end grain.
I don’t sand my edge finish unless there is something wrong with it. For a space that size I generally leave it. If I am sanding it, I either go in by hand or use a flexible sanding block type item. I have seen people use large erasers as sanding blocks for that before.
Late to the party here. What are you using to polish inside the curve of the "horn"? Does your 3" polish pad get in there or do you just do it by hand? Thanks.
I would generally just do that by hand, but realistically I almost never end up sanding and polishing that area fully. There’s no need.
I didn't see the Buff N Polish kit referenced anywhere in your links.
Sorry for the confusion. I think I’ve fixed it now. Should be under the Mohawk/behlen link.
Brad, the guitar looks great. The top does not appear to be "flat", is this true. I am working on a Tele top with a quilted maple veneer, I am new to veneer, I have flattened and glued it to my blank. It still has tiny ripples or bumps that are just part of the wood. I am asking because of the final finish, how can this become a flat finish by just spraying. I would think you cannot sand it flat before finishing or you would sand through the veneer. So, I am curious as to what that top really looks like, hard to tell from the camera. Any tips on moving forward with mine. Is a Tung oil finish a better way to go? Thanks in advance.
Mine is generally flat but has the texture from the very open ash burl grain. Is that what you’re referring to?
@@BradAngove yes, thanks for the reply. I am a bit bummed, I carved the body out on my CNC Saturday. Somewhere between getting the project setup in the software and starting the carve, the whole body moved about a 1/4 inch in the software. Did not notice until the end, the bookmatched veneer is now off center, cannot use it as is.
Going to have to be a an opaque top or a reverse burst with opaque in the middle fading out to a transparent top on the outside.
@@BradAngove Interesting thoughts, my brain has been spinning the last couple days, need to fix a couple tear spots in the veneer due to the routing, most will be covered by a minimal pickguard I have designed for a previous guitar, then take some sort of action and move forward.
Yeh, I think I’ll skip the playing.........nah. 🤪
Nice job Brad, well explained Looking forward to the next video in this series. 👍🏻
Thanks man. Glad you like it.
Its gorgeous Brad. What type of tuners for that skinny neck?? Just curious.........
Solo pro locking tuners I think are the plan for this guy.
other polisher cream i could use ...cant find the one you are using on amazon anymore
There are tons. Oxford supply now has one for lacquers.
If I were to get EITHER the Abralon pads OR the micro mesh pads, but not both, which would you recommend? By the way, it looks great!
What kind of paint are you generally polishing?
Well, for my next project I will be trying Solarez I Can’t Believe It’s Not Lacquer.
Mr. Brad I was wondering what tape you use to mask I have the 64 silvertone I'm trying to create a raised top look what masking tape do you suggest
Any decent painters tape or masking tape should do. The automotive grade orange stuff is nice and thin and works really well while limiting ridges.
Mr. Brad
Mr. Bread thank you for your reply I watch all of your videos everything I'm learning is from watching you in a spray can when I get it finished I want to show you the things that you've taught me thank you for your channel
Hey Brad,
Couldnt find the buffing pads. can you send a link?
Did you check the amazon link in the description under the polishing list?
@@BradAngove I will check it again!
one more thing Brad, what sanding sealer(spray can preferably) should I use before the spraymaxx 2K? Thanks so much man!
I like to use the EZ vinyl sealer from Mohawk. Although, Mohawk says not to use it with their own poly. I’ve never had any problems with the combination and I use it frequently.
thanks so much for the replies Brad, I went with the solarez I cant believe it's not lacquer sealer/filler since they say there is no shrinkage. I've watched a ton of your videos and you have inspired me (and others) to do our first kits. I'm excited and addicted now! If mine turns out half as good as yours do I will be very pleased.. thanks so much.
@@BradAngove Oh wow, I wish I would've seen this a day earlier! I was looking at that and didn't get it because of that reason. I will use that in future builds then. I went with solarez I cant believe its not lacquer sealer/filler. Thanks so much for inspiring me to do my first build! It's because of you that I am now completely addicted!
How did you like the solarez?
Brad I bought a ion strat copy and I want to put a fender style neck on it . do you think it will fit and where can I buy one . thanks Mark d.
Have you tried Warmoth?
Do you happen to know if the neck pocket is an exact fender copy?
@@BradAngove no but if you know the size of a fender pocket , i can measure mine and find out . I just don't know where to buy a new neck
@@markdalton293 Google is your friend...Those specs are all over the internet. Then I suggest using a reputable Licensed Fender dealer to buy a neck from. If your neck pocket is correct. Places like Warmoth, WD music or even The Stratosphere on ebay.
@@georgelackey622 you did say you wanted a Fender style neck. Just trying to help. I'm modding a cheap guitar too. And it's not a cheap project.
So, you listen to "One Direction" while you hand sand? What's your favorite One Direction song, Brad? 😂 Also, get yourself a fitness club membership so you can look more presentable to your viewers.😜 Guitar body looks great man!👍👍
Do they have a song about being abrasive? If so, I guess that’s my jam haha.
@@BradAngove That was a classic response.😂😂😂 Maybe "Temporary fix" would be the right song. 😂😂
Brad Angove I think New kids on the block would’ve more your jam while you’re pimpin these guitar bodies. Lol. Keep up the good work.
She’s purty