Bambu Lab A1: Does AMS lite on top RUIN print quality?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2024
- Hello, 3D Printing friends! Today we're going to find out if putting the four spool AMS lite on top of the Bambu Lab A1 destroys its ability to print.
This video is sponsored by PCBWay. Visit pcbway.com for high-quality PCBs and other services!
MODEL LINK: makerworld.com/en/models/4030...
Thanks to @3DPrintFarm for the exceptional pun in the thumbnail!
The AMS lite Top Mount files are located here: makerworld.com/en/models/92486
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CHAPTERS
00:00 Introduction
00:31 PCBWay
01:06 Concerns
01:35 Why Top Mount?
02:13 About the Top Mount
03:05 Testing Methodology
03:51 AMS lite Next to Printer
04:20 Printing the Top Mount
05:27 AMS lite on top, Comparing Prints
05:38 Side-by-Side Eiffel Towers
06:52 Side-by-Side Teaching Tech's Wobble Test
07:38 Which is which? Comment!
08:03 THE ANSWER IS...
08:20 Wrapping Up - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
The thing is, while the printer may wobble, the motion between the printer and table doesn't matter. The only thing that needs to be constant is the motion between the extruder and print bed, and because of a strong design, that doesn't change. This is the same reason that all the shaking of an X1C doesn't really matter, and new feet or concrete blocks don't change print quality. But a great video confirming this.
“strong design”... no, it’s not! Both Z-beams are absolutely light and relatively thin - only connected at the top by injection molded parts - tends to skew. The entire print quality only works through active input shaping, so you shouldn't fool yourself or sugarcoat anything.
Probablemente colocar tanta masa en ese punto crítico, aunque a priori no afecte a la calidad de impresión, acabe por reducir la vida útil de la impresora. Las vibraciones nunca son buenas para ningún mecanismo.
Exactly. I believe Maker's Muse did a series of videos on this a while ago where he tested different configurations and even suspended the printer in mid air without much difference to the print quality. This is before input shaping was available so that benefit was not a factor.
Strong in this use is RELATIVE@@emtrax
@@emtraxbro ate you a bot or a hater? Why such negativity on so many comments?? Go touch some grass
I couldn't tell. Bambu has bed slingers figured out. Thanks for another great video.
Great vid! I was just wondering about this. I have a mini currently, but planning to upgrade it to a full A1.
Thank You! From Frisco, TX. Well, my AMS lite is going on top!
Thanks Bryan. Happy New Year.
Happy new year! 🥳
I really could not tell either. Thanks.
I'm considering upgrading my Ender 3 V3 SE 3D printer, as it's a good starter, but I'm dealing with issues like inconsistent print quality and auto Z offset, which are becoming frustrating. I've narrowed down my choices to two options:
1. Flashforge Adventurer 5M, priced at $550 in my country.
2. Creality K1 is also around $550
2. Bambulab A1, costing $700 here, but it's not officially sold, leading to higher prices.
Which one would you recommend?
Creality printers are the only ones with good prices here. However, it seems like all of them need some fixing or adjusting. I want a printer that I can just start printing, go to work, and return to a finished print. I've heard that even the K1 can be unreliable at times.
Truthfully, I am less concerned about quality, and more about long time gantry reliability. We can do all the tricks in the world, but having 5kg of extra weight wobbling back and forth constantly, will undoubtedly wear out mounting points over time. And that is far more important, to keep the gantry solid and square.
Yes this matches my experience so far. I've only put maybe ten spools through it, but having the AMS on top doesn't seem to impact its solid performance.
Btw guys, if you are afraid of it snapping off, you can (obviously) use ABS or PETG or PLA+ OR you can lower the layer height to as low as possible, as that also increases print strength
congratulations for the video!!! I suppose, however, that all those stresses on the axes, perhaps over time they can lead to structural problems with the printer or maybe not... Now I haven't managed to buy the A1 yet but I will do it soon... I think I'll leave the AMS alongside too if it takes up a lot of space and I don't even know if I'll fit there hahahaha....
You know, Bryan, this result doesn't surprise me one bit. I ran into the same arguments when I installed the 3DChameleon's Y adapter on top of the Bambu X1C's extruder... people kept telling me that it would cause issues with the print. But they thing they kept forgetting is that the the Bambu printers use input shaping compensation which cancels out the mass automatically. In fact, this is the exact type of inverted pendulum mass cancellation that the input shaping algorithm is designed for.
i love kind of that mount, very clean table with this stuff
You sir, are awesome.
Thanks for the video, maybe a good moment to get the combo
From using the A1 MIni and AMS Lite, I wouldn't have them on top unless I planned on only using Bambu spools. LOL Other spools, even with the printable converters, can roll right off the AMS Lite. 😀
That's the ticket ! :) Great video !
Would you recommend running the vibration compensation calibration again after mounting it?
happy new year bv3d
Happy new year, Paul!
What print some did you use to print this kit?
Standard 2 wall loops and 15% infill, or did you bump it up?
Maker's Muse made an interesting video 3 month ago about that as well. And you still have the coolest T-shirts ever...👍
Might I suggest using a drag chain for the head wire? I printed one I found on MakerWorld and really like it as well as the top mount. Also, I printed a few of the 3D Dad Jokes you featured, and they are great. Thank you for that video.
That's a great idea! I'm going to look for one!
The right side wobble test was printed with the AMS up top. When you show the right side you can see that it was tilted a bit.
Thannks for the video, just wish you would have shared printer settings for printig the pieces.
Thanks Bryan. I always come straight to you when researching 3D print stuff. In your opinion, do you think the AMS can be places on the LEFT side of the printer on a table? Bambu says to put it on the right, but I can't see why, physically, it can't go on the left. Thoughts?
The cable connecting the AMS lite to the printer will reach. The only potential issue is not having a place to clip the toolhead cable -- the one that connects the tool head to the right side of the X axis arm. Normally that gets clipped to the Bowden tubes, and when the AMS lite is mounted on the right side, that cable and the Bowden tubes tend to follow the same arc. If you have a way to keep that cable up and out of the way, you could probably get away with having the AMS lite on the left side.
What settings and filament choice did you use to print your mount?
Did you notice any movement of the tower towards the top? That would be my concern that it might separate from the bed.
I can not tell the diff …. I think imma do this mount it will def save space ❤🙏🏻we are all one
Def interested in this vid since alotta people are wishy washy and man it would be nice to put it on top but I havnt outta fear lol ❤️🙏🏻 we are all one
Any modifications to the stock slicer profiles
Hi, great vid (complement in advance :) ) The left ones looked slightly better to me.
Worth noting that Bambu also sell the screws for it on their site for 1.99
That's cool, I didn't know that!
I need that shirt! Or one just like it anyway.
If anyone is still looking at this thread: First, thank you very much for this information. Have a new A1 (for two weeks) and was concerned about this very issue. Second, where can I find that excellent model of the Eiffel Tower?
Hi! I had to hunt for it again, but I found it: makerworld.com/en/models/40302#profileId-40010
@@BV3D Excellent. Thanks.
I don't know if its just the lighting, but on the Tower the detailed part unter der railing looks less detailed on the ams on top one. Could also be a focus thing.
Love the shirt
Thank you!
Hi, I wanted to buy a bambulab a1 3D printer and I wanted to use IKEA lack to make a box but having a room in winter with an ambient temperature of 16.5°C. I wanted to close on three sides with MDF and leave open at the front... for air recycling. Could it improve the temperature?

The right Eifeltower looked a bit bend to me, but that could just be me.
Hi Bryan, please could you let us know how tall the printer is with the AMS lite on top? Thanks!
Its height is between 31.5 and 32 inches (800mm to 812mm), to give a bit of room for the Bowden tubes.
Thank you!
@@Morrisado needed tis information as well, thanks for asking.
Bryan, is the mount printed in just PLA?
Mine is, yeah. If it starts looking like it's deforming (PLA can do that over time if it's under stress), I will likely reprint in PETG. But the one in the video (which is still on the printer) is in PLA.
Thanks Bryan!!!!@@BV3D
I'm impressed that there isn't a difference, however the inconvenience this introduces when changing the spools would annoy me. My AMS Lite (for the A1 Mini rather than the A1) Lives on a pegboard mount above the machine and so far that has been perfect. By that I mean it hasn't fallen off yet...
The top mount for the A1 can rotate left or right to make it easier to get to the spools on the back of the AMS lite. It's not a _huge_ inconvenience (though it's not entirely as simple as having the AMS lite sitting next to the printer).
Thx bv3d
You are quite welcome!
Winder if it could be mounted sideways to a wall?? I dont have space above the printer but would love to get it up off the surface
Several wall-mount options for the AMS lite popped up shortly after the A1 mini was released. They would probably work with the full size A1, too.
Love the tShirt
Thanks!
Freedom units?
Anyway, thanks for the video!!!
Freedom Units, yep! I'm one of those weird people who think the Metric System is the way to go, but I live in a country where everything is using Imperial measurements.
What's the total height with the AMS on top?
I've heard of the #2 roll falling off and crashing into the bed
The left Eiffel tower looked slightly sharper on details to me, while the right ringing test tower looked ever so slightly better, but if I'm being honest it felt more like lighting than anything else. Extremely hard to noticed any major differences.
Great video. I'm more worried about 3rd party spools that don't fit so well falling off... Any experience with that yet?
So far I've only run into one spool that had a hub diameter too large to fit on the AMS lite. There are various hub adapters you can download and print, and I did print one, but it still wasn't a tight fit on the spool itself. I ended up respooling the filament onto another spool, which worked fine and took a lot less time than printing an adapter.
@@BV3D any tips for respooling? Do you use a tool of any kind?
@@rendez2k th-cam.com/video/LuhLuW35Urw/w-d-xo.html I used the one from this video. In the time since its release early this year, I'm sure newer ones have been released. But this one has done pretty well for me so far.
@@BV3D thank you 😊
This man has the best hair. ever. ;)
No link as promised to the AMS top mount!!!!!
Oops! I apologize. I thought I had that in the description, but apparently not. I mean, I do NOW, but that doesn't help you three hours ago. For convenience, here's the link: makerworld.com/en/models/92486
A bit more stringing on the model then I expected considering the hype around it. But the prints do look great otherwise.
Bryan... Since the A1 uses input shaping to compensate for mass and resonances, what are your thoughts for long prints that use tons of filament? Would the decreasing mass up top cause the input shaping to be increasingly "off" the further along the print progresses?
Great topic for a video but if I'm being honest, I think the results of this are kind of misleading. The prints were printed super slow or in a higher resolution and this helps a lot with the added weight or two hide quality differences. The Eiffel tower is took you twice as long to print than it would on a higher resolution or faster print and that's what most people will be doing with these printers. The blue filament is not a great filament to show any inconsistencies or differences in the layers and I think black should have been chosen here. The lighting, angle, and youtube's compression also doesn't help show us accurate results since we cannot see the layer lines at all. We are basically taking your word for the quality because we cant really see it. I have seen some youtubers compare printers and say the quality is "basically identical" when you can clearly see differences and layer inconsistencies in the prints they show.
30 bucks on amazon... a quad holder and 3 bowden tubes later and i don't need an ams.... btw its only there to tell the printer what you are using for filament...
Paused - Left is With AMS on Top.
OK, I was wrrrrrrrrrrrrrong. lol Good Job
😉 Thanks!
what does this printer measure with AMS Lite on top i have a space im hoping to put the printer but its not here yet need to plan an instalation 🤣😆
Are you wanting just the height, or the entire volume of space where the printer would comfortably fit?
@@BV3D just the height of you have it to hand please
@@FKCreationsPrints Its height is between 31.5 and 32 inches (800mm to 812mm), to give a bit of room for the Bowden tubes.
@@BV3D thanks this is just what I needed very helpful
@@FKCreationsPrints Sure thing! I hope it'll fit where you want to put it!
its funny how everyone puts the ams on there the wrong way. turn it 180 degrees and it wil be actually carried by all of the printers feet. need an extension tho for high prints
We're installing it that way because that's how it's designed to be installed. 😁
Doing it backwards doesn't get you what you may think it does. With the bracket mounted backwards:
• The toolhead cable will contact the bracket when Z is at about 190mm. You lose 25% of your build height.
• The AMS lite is now angled backward, decreasing the bend radius on the Bowden tubes at low Z values, and increasing friction within them. This can cause feed issues.
• The Bowden tubes now rub against the two forward spools, and could get snagged between them during a print.
• It becomes extremely difficult to access the screw that locks the unit in the center position (the screw is removed to turn the unit to the left or right to access the spools at the back).
I love the term "freedom units". I laugh every time I hear it. Imperial units, such as lbs was the unit of the English monarch you had a revolution from. Metric is the units of France, the original country to revolute from Monarchy. So really. Lbs, inch, foot, mile etc should be units of the "oppressor". A long way from "freedom units".
I say it to be funny. I'm one of those weird Americans who likes the Metric system. 😊
So do what i did, make a box for the a1 and mount your ams lite ontop. Now itst almost a p1s
Bambulabs Canada recently shipped a known defective A1 with a recall notice on powerup on the LCD. They have not contacted the customer and have not informed the government that the unit could cause a fire and possible electrocution since February. The unit was delivered close to the Burnaby depot and they could have easily shipped a working unit and a tech to make it right. Drive time is now 28 minutes. Avoid this shoddy company. I have unopened X1C and P1P and an A1 Mini. Perhaps I will return them tomorrow if nothing is resolved.
Oh no... why does the test model taper so much towards the top? Please use models that independently cause large X/Y movements at low and high Z - the Eiffel Tower is absolutely unsuitable for the test! The alternative tower is also unsuitable - symmetrical distances and too narrow... no possibility for sufficient acceleration.
Most 3D models taper at the top
@@car_tar3882 you're missing the point
Hi! If you've got a suggestion for a model, let me know. I asked for suggestions on the first A1 video, and got "Eiffel Tower" and "Wobble Test" so that's what I printed. I also got a suggestion for the Torture Toaster but that one's pretty short so I didn't think it would show much.
Simple answer.. No it does not . If it does ruin your print quality the problem is your print
Tldr: no
This man need to be stopped
its funny wehen people say i moved the other print to a differnet printer because they dont want to waste time with color swaps!!!! the system is broken!!!!! we need a better color changing system!!!! bambus is stupid!!! yes i have one!!! i dont even use it because its a waste of time and filament
If Bambu’s is so stupid why don’t you get four of your best friends, design a printer Than convince someone to give you money and then present it to the world and turn the entire consumer 3D Market on end! We’re waiting…..eagerly
@@judd_s5643 Multi-extruder printers do it more efficiently, but of course they have a different set of challenges and limitations.
Moving to another printer doesn't save time on swa0a. Because there are none. Same as a 1 color bambu print... dur dur dur