No worries Rob I have built my own small blaster ,which is a hybrid of what you use but I put all the proper grit valve and metering valves ,works a treat ,especially as I have limited Cfm of air ,ute is coming along slowly,I started on the front floors and interior rust Thanks again ,please show more of your Hg project
Hey Rob, Deb and Bill, I trust everything is well in your part of the world? I really enjoy your vids and the varied content that you provide - keeps it fresh. On that, I'd love to see a 'will-it-run' video on that F-Truck you showed us in your back lot. Maybe followed by a 'Dylan McCool' style power wash ha-ha. Anyways, thanks for creating awesome content, I really enjoy it and hope you enjoy the fan appreciation.
Thanks for the comment Terry, we are a bit snowed under on a couple of big projects that have stopped videos for now. We will be back as soon as we can get our heads above water so to speak. Great idea with the F 250. As someone who trained as a mechanic in the bush, believe me if the engine will turn (or can be made to turn) it will run. Gauranteed to get a bit of smoke and shift a few red back spiders out. I will leave it until we have green grass again, so we have no chance of starting a fire.😉. I will do a detailed set by step on starting an engine that has sat for decades in the video. Years ago I went up north to get a Perkins diesel running in a boat, when I got there I found the engine full of sea water rusted solid........23 hours later it was running good enough to recover the vessel. F250, no worries. Cheers Rob.
I like to use my Planishing Hammers for that, I'd of used a Ball Peen for Whacking the Cold Chisel! I also have learnt from my PRD days keep your good Planishing Hammer's Surface Polished!
I will admit I used to be more fussy with my hammer, this one is the "other" hammer and tends to get a bit of abuse. I can imagine the marks a scratched hammer would make in paint on a pdr job. I do quite a bit of stainless repair, and often just put a layer of masking tape on the hammer face as I work the mouldings. Thanks for your comment. Cheers Rob.
G'day Rob😉 From north of River🙂 Buddy just finished watching you doing something I have done in my past. 1. I noticed your nut and bolt wasn't grade 12. 2. Noticed you said you had about 2mm depth in your crimp die. My experience was the same as yours, I changed depth of crimp die and bolt grade, it started to work yet alas Jamed up due to circumference of press die insert not having clearance for 1, sheet thickness and approximately an extra millimeter. Yes I did have to use a second press die to achieve total circumference required. But I did get there in the end. Hope that helps a weee bit after the horse has bolted😉🙂👍👍
Happy New Year! Good to see you back on TH-cam. Always good to see and learn from your videos. Nice work on the sound editing. Very quiet hammer and dolly work forming the number plate recess and hammering on the tailgate. Look forward to seeing more videos as time goes on.
G'day. We've dusted off the camera's and sound gear, and we've been down there making video's. Hopefully posting smaller videos more often. Cheers, Rob and Deb
Been following the build somewhat, last video was the front fender panel beating and engine bay painted as well as a door. Just wondering if you are leaving the car in primer on purpose? As per the quaters are already in primer. I have a vs s pac, am going bare emtal as i used to do this when I tied an apprenticeship, just wondering how you people leave their car sin primer or maybe its polyster...Im going for good materials for a straight car. I was thinking a week to a month, and some people wait 6 months or a year. Any additional thoughts on repriming after an intiall block and sand down wqitht he oridbital being the usual? I am still good dfriends with my spray painter workmate, am now a mechanic as original intended, but wondering if you had ny thoughts as primer shrinks back and all that. Im getting the car Paintless dent repaired and super minimal or no filler involved. Cheers!
Hi mate, I will work panels to primer stage as I go. If you keep your project clean and dry it can stay in primer for any amount of time. Shrinkage is the result of solvents drying out of the primers, so all shrinkage will occur in the first few weeks. The absolute time it takes will vary brand to brand. Some primers will set up very hard after a few days curing. If you have this issue you can let it cure fully and after any shrinkage has occured, then sand it heavily and reprime. The new primer can be sanded after baking or next day. You should not have any shrinkage issues doing this as the second priming is going over straight cured paint. Naturally if you sand the rock solid primer with final grade abrasives you can go straight to paint. This also answers your question about repriming sanded primer, yes you can. Cheers Rob.
For awhile there I thought that you may have to end up using that circle as a third brake light, you know fitted with the cheapest of round trailer lights.
looking awesome
Thanks mate.
Great video👍👍
No worries Rob
I have built my own small blaster ,which is a hybrid of what you use but I put all the proper grit valve and metering valves ,works a treat ,especially as I have limited Cfm of air ,ute is coming along slowly,I started on the front floors and interior rust
Thanks again ,please show more of your Hg project
Great video, love the real world on the fly problem solving.
Hey Rob, Deb and Bill, I trust everything is well in your part of the world? I really enjoy your vids and the varied content that you provide - keeps it fresh. On that, I'd love to see a 'will-it-run' video on that F-Truck you showed us in your back lot. Maybe followed by a 'Dylan McCool' style power wash ha-ha. Anyways, thanks for creating awesome content, I really enjoy it and hope you enjoy the fan appreciation.
Thanks for the comment Terry, we are a bit snowed under on a couple of big projects that have stopped videos for now. We will be back as soon as we can get our heads above water so to speak. Great idea with the F 250. As someone who trained as a mechanic in the bush, believe me if the engine will turn (or can be made to turn) it will run. Gauranteed to get a bit of smoke and shift a few red back spiders out. I will leave it until we have green grass again, so we have no chance of starting a fire.😉. I will do a detailed set by step on starting an engine that has sat for decades in the video. Years ago I went up north to get a Perkins diesel running in a boat, when I got there I found the engine full of sea water rusted solid........23 hours later it was running good enough to recover the vessel. F250, no worries. Cheers Rob.
I like to use my Planishing Hammers for that, I'd of used a Ball Peen for Whacking the Cold Chisel! I also have learnt from my PRD days keep your good Planishing Hammer's Surface Polished!
I will admit I used to be more fussy with my hammer, this one is the "other" hammer and tends to get a bit of abuse. I can imagine the marks a scratched hammer would make in paint on a pdr job. I do quite a bit of stainless repair, and often just put a layer of masking tape on the hammer face as I work the mouldings. Thanks for your comment. Cheers Rob.
I was getting concerned. It’s been a while and really stoked to see you post this. Great watching.
So stoked to see you back into the vids Rob! 😁
Was only thinking about this channel 2 days ago.
Love your work mate absolutely brilliant 👌👌🤌
Nice work
G'day Rob😉
From north of River🙂
Buddy just finished watching you doing something I have done in my past.
1. I noticed your nut and bolt wasn't grade 12.
2. Noticed you said you had about 2mm depth in your crimp die.
My experience was the same as yours, I changed depth of crimp die and bolt grade, it started to work yet alas Jamed up due to circumference of press die insert not having clearance for 1, sheet thickness and approximately an extra millimeter.
Yes I did have to use a second press die to achieve total circumference required.
But I did get there in the end.
Hope that helps a weee bit after the horse has bolted😉🙂👍👍
Love your work Rob. Helping us all out in the resto world. cheers
When there is a will, there is always a way.
I just checked yesterday that I hadn't missed any uploads, and this morning you uploaded
Love watching this build can't wait to see it finished
Enjoying the battle mate, are you allowing the gap from the double sided tape?
Happy New Year!
Good to see you back on TH-cam. Always good to see and learn from your videos.
Nice work on the sound editing. Very quiet hammer and dolly work forming the number plate recess and hammering on the tailgate.
Look forward to seeing more videos as time goes on.
Hey mate any chance of a new video please
G'day. We've dusted off the camera's and sound gear, and we've been down there making video's. Hopefully posting smaller videos more often.
Cheers,
Rob and Deb
thanks Rob
I love that you said 'Movie'!
Thanks mate, been waiting for this one real bad!
I’ve sent you something toward your question about the rear loom. It’s not much, but it’s something.
Happy New Year mate been waiting for this🤙🇭🇲
Happy new year!! Been a year, hasn't it? Hope 2022 is good for us all.
Been following the build somewhat, last video was the front fender panel beating and engine bay painted as well as a door.
Just wondering if you are leaving the car in primer on purpose? As per the quaters are already in primer. I have a vs s pac, am going bare emtal as i used to do this when I tied an apprenticeship, just wondering how you people leave their car sin primer or maybe its polyster...Im going for good materials for a straight car. I was thinking a week to a month, and some people wait 6 months or a year. Any additional thoughts on repriming after an intiall block and sand down wqitht he oridbital being the usual?
I am still good dfriends with my spray painter workmate, am now a mechanic as original intended, but wondering if you had ny thoughts as primer shrinks back and all that. Im getting the car Paintless dent repaired and super minimal or no filler involved. Cheers!
Hi mate, I will work panels to primer stage as I go. If you keep your project clean and dry it can stay in primer for any amount of time. Shrinkage is the result of solvents drying out of the primers, so all shrinkage will occur in the first few weeks. The absolute time it takes will vary brand to brand. Some primers will set up very hard after a few days curing. If you have this issue you can let it cure fully and after any shrinkage has occured, then sand it heavily and reprime. The new primer can be sanded after baking or next day. You should not have any shrinkage issues doing this as the second priming is going over straight cured paint. Naturally if you sand the rock solid primer with final grade abrasives you can go straight to paint. This also answers your question about repriming sanded primer, yes you can. Cheers Rob.
th-cam.com/video/Z4fBbhyzE9A/w-d-xo.html you're a perfectionist Rob! have a great new year.
Hahaha. Absolutely! 😉😂
For awhile there I thought that you may have to end up using that circle as a third brake light, you know fitted with the cheapest of round trailer lights.
😜😂